Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 08:51:07 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Changing to a 6 speed

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Brad Bedell did a swap a while back and found that It is for the most part
a direct swap ---- however ---- you also need to replace the transfer case
and the rear end to get the front and rear differentials to match. In addition
he said the drive shaft had to be shortened buy an inch or so or replaced.
appended to the bottom of this post is a copy of Brads post.
The cost could reach $5000 with a used 6 speed [ Kormex ] and labor, if
you can find a tech willing to mess with the project.

    Jim Berry

>
> As I recall from earlier and my experiences with other lists, the cost of
> replacing the 5 speed with the 6 speed is prohibitive. I think there was an
> outfit from NJ or something that was doing a 5-6 speed project and the
> numbers were coming in excess of $10K. This is because the bolt-on pattern
> is different and apparently the halfhafts exit the 6 speed at a different
> location than the 5s. I'll try to get in touch with my past "contacts" for
> an update.
>
> JOe 91TT
===============================================================>
>
       Brad Bedell wrote:

After a hard weekend, I was successful.

For those who wanted to know:

I will put together a web site with a more thorough breakdown for the 5/6
speed swap, however this will be the highlights.

Transaxle, clutch, flywheel wiring, speedometer output gear, front axles are
the same.

Rear differential is a different ratio, and seems like a better limited
slip. 6 speed ratio: 3.307, 5 speed 3.545.

Transfer case, Hrmm lets see how to put this...Well those of you who blow
your 5 speed junk, skip over the replacement and don't look back when you go
to six speed. The output shaft for the 6 speed is almost twice what the 5
speed shaft is. Not to mention the transfer case itself is much stronger.

Transfer case on the 6 speed is about 1" shorter in length.

Driveshaft: The 6 speed shaft is about 1" longer (for the transfer case).
Simply take the front piece to a driveshaft shop, have them lengthen the
front section of the shaft ~1" and you will be in good shape. Cost is
50-100.00. New driveshaft is 1200.00-1500.00 (save the money)

6 speed shifter cables are about 2" shorter than the 5 speed shifter cables.
5 speed cables will work on the 6 speed with a little adjustment in length.
I would change the shifter assembly.

Total project was a success, the car leaps out of the hole like it never has
before. The gearing on the 6 speed is much more efficient in transferring
the torque to the ground.

Time spent ~15 hours for the whole swap.   I am tired and some of this
information may be transversed in the differences. When I have pictures and
part #'s up I will repost this info.

> Brad
>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682

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Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 20:57:01 -0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Changing to a 6 speed

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

    I did the conversion to my 93 VR4. I installed a 97 VR4 drive train
into it. The total cost excluding labor (did it myself) was just under
$4000. This included the 97 6 speed transmission, transfer case, drive
shaft, rear differential, new shifter cables, inside shifter linkage(not
needed on 93, it's the same as 94+) RPS Turbo Carbon Clutch, and Redline
fluids.
I was delayed due to the Clutch shipping and also the new shifter cables
shipment (came from Japan).
    I'm real happy with the out come. I've put a few thousand miles on it
with no problems.

Andy Carberry

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Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 18:56:40 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about ABS

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

>
> Why is ABS enabled when braking in a straight line?
>

ABS is good for average to below average drivers. An experienced driver can
do better than ABS under most circumstances, including stopping at a shorter
distance.

If you are not afraid of (can handle) getting sideways under panic braking,
you do not need ABS.

ABS is dangereous on snow or dirt. the stopping distances are doubled to
quadrupled, compared to a skilled driver.

ABS also cuts off brakes when gouing over a hump, unexpected and quite
dangereous.

So, if you can handle it, put a kill switch to your ABS and turn it off
unless you are doing over 100mph on a wet autobahn

best braking system is a manual one with driver controlled front/rear
balance provision

my personal opinion after 15 years of vehicle dynamics experience.

to answer your question, even if the vehicle is on a straight line, tire
lock up will let the tail fo sideways. so, ABS is needed regardless of
steering wheel position (for ordinary drivers)

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Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 19:00:56 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question...please advise

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

The 6-speed needs its own rear end, the ratios are not compatible with the 5
speed.

viscous coupling can only be tested on the car. you have to chain the car to
a strong anchor, lift the rear end with a shop jack, slowly engage in 1st
gear. if you get sufficient traction, it is working. do not abuse the car,
this subjective test is very hard on all components.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DSMDealer1@aol.com>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: Team3S: Question...please advise

> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
>
> Being new to the list and the 3000GTs I wanted to post an e-mail to
introduce
> myself and hopefully get some information from the gurus here. I recently
> purchased a showroom condition '92 3000GT VR4 (Silver, loaded, black
> interior) for $8400. Problem in (always a catch) is that the transmission
is
> bad. When Pep Boys replaced the clutch for the previous owner (please
flame
> him, not me...I'd never take a car there) they neglected to refill the
> transmission. So as a result, I have dropped the transmission and torn it
> apart. I've found a supplier for the bearings and seals (which I
definitely
> need), but am still looking for the seal that goes on the outside of the
5th
> gear housing and the oil director that fits underneath the main shaft
bearing
> on the inside of the bell housing. I have also found a cheap 6-speed
> transmission that I'm thinking about picking up. My questions are as
follows:
>
> 1) Does anyone know how to check a viscous on these cars to determine the
> condition of the unit?
>
> 2) What would I have to change in order to use the 6-speed in the car
since
> it originally came with a 5-speed? (Cables? Transfer Case? Linkages?
Etc.?)
>
> 3) Does anyone know where i may be able to find the last minor parts for
the
> transmission I currently have in order to put it back together? (oil
> director, seal on outside of casing)
>
> I appreciate any reply on this!
>
> Since I work at a Mitsu dealership in the Club/Internet/Tuner Sales dept.
> (parts), I would like to offer the same discounts to everyone here on the
> list as well. (25% off of Mitsubishi list..not inflated dealer pricing).
> This is basically good for any OEM parts with the exception of accesories
> (floormats, mudguards, roof racks, power winches, etc...(joking on the
last
> couple!!!)). I am the only person in this dept. that handles Mitsubishi's
> though, so please be patient when trying to reach me. The phone # is
(610)
> 272-8504 and you now also have my work e-mail address. Thanks again for
any
> help in advance, and I look forward to adding any knowledge that I might
> aquire on these cars in the future!
>
> Josh
> Conicelli Mitsubishi
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 12:46:59 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about ABS

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I mostly disagree on this topics ! Or do you think the people in DTM and
other circle track events are that bad drivers so they installed ABS ?

> ABS is good for average to below average drivers. An experienced driver
can
> do better than ABS under most circumstances, including stopping at a
shorter
> distance.

In 80% of the cases even the most experienced driver caused the wheels to
lock up. At this point he looses against ABS. We made so many tests during
our driving and racing schools and only the M3 we had came pretty close to
the braking distance like ABS did. With more and more experience I was able
not to lock up the wheels but with a lot of concentration. And what if yo
uhave to brake and turn the lane at the same time because a child jump onto
the street ? Without ABS you gonna loose your end and our tests showed that
the (dummy) child got hit by the end of the car. Not with ABS !

> If you are not afraid of (can handle) getting sideways under panic
braking,
> you do not need ABS.

You know what happens when two wheels are on slippery road and the others on
dry. You drive aith 100mph and infront of you a car is changing the lane
without regarding you. Without ABS you are in big shit and the car heavily
tend to spin. Now a racing driver does this every day but not we "normal"
humans. I had this situation in rain and had hydroplaning on one side when I
had to do the emergency braking. The ABS did the perfect job and I just had
to step onto the brakes as hard as I can (CDs flying around....) and was
able to concentrate for the steering wheel including looking in the mirror.
Hey, we humans are not multitask compatible so this is why we develop such
things !

> ABS is dangereous on snow or dirt. the stopping distances are doubled to
> quadrupled, compared to a skilled driver.

No, our tests and my snow- and ice driving experience over all this years
here in the Alps tell a different story. Oh, by the way, even with ABS
activated you can still control the pressure force you give with the foot.
ABS is an emergency aiding braking system.

> ABS also cuts off brakes when gouing over a hump, unexpected and quite
> dangereous.

Yes, the ones from 15 years ago did this. ABS is inactivated when the wheels
do not turn anymore.

> So, if you can handle it, put a kill switch to your ABS and turn it off
> unless you are doing over 100mph on a wet autobahn

Oh, it safed my front also at 20mph in snow as I was able to make a turn in
snow with pushing the pedal :-)

> best braking system is a manual one with driver controlled front/rear
> balance provision

This may be right for the racing track and people who do it everyday.

> my personal opinion after 15 years of vehicle dynamics experience.
> to answer your question, even if the vehicle is on a straight line, tire
> lock up will let the tail fo sideways. so, ABS is needed regardless of
> steering wheel position (for ordinary drivers)

Yep, I totally agree.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 16:00:47 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S: New Greddy Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge w/near Wideband O2 Sensor

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

This thing looks very useful.

http://www.suprastore.com/supra/gredairfuelk.html

Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.44@114.6 0-60 3.90 Gtech
92 GMC Typhoon
13.72@100.2 0-60 4.90 Gtech

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End of team3s V1 #27
********************