team3s
Friday, January 14
2000 Volume 01
: Number
025
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Jan 2000 18:32:57 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: $350 TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS??
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Thats about right! I just had
my 60k tune-up today. It cost me $900 total
not including the
plugs. He said it normally runs about $400 to do the
plugs. I had
the pre-tensioner, timing belt, water pump, all fluids, drive
belts, parking
brake adjusted, and oil pan gasket changed. The plugs are
about $10
each=$60+ wires at $65.00 + filter (their price) $35.00 listed at
4 hours
labor at $60 /hour =$400 give or take for parts. It took me 2 hours
to
do it myself for the first time. Its not that hard if you ask around
for
detailed instructions like these:
Check out these instructions given
from Brian at GT Pro. I used them last
week, went very well and I can
not think of anything I would add.
START BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
The easiest
way to do it will be to first remove the rear I/C pipe
completely to get more
room. Now remove the EGR pipe to manifold connection
where it meets the
manifold, but only remove one bolt completely and make
the other one really
loose. What this will do is release the stainless
gasket that is in there and
this way you can "swing the gasket around and
not have it drop into the
"black void", never to be found again. Now remove
the bolt
attatching the rear manifold with the engine pick-up bracket
located near the
drivers side, and also the same bracket on the passenger
side. Loosen, but do
NOT remove the Y-pipe, just loosen it up and remove
ONLY the two rubber I/C
pipes connected to it, them swing the Y-pipe upwards
carefully to make room
to move the manifold. Now remove the two 10mm bolts
that hold the throttle
cable and move it to the side. Remove the two 10mm
bolts that hold the three
connector plugs to the manifold that sit next to
the Y-pipe. Remove the two
10mm bolts holding the front injector loom to the
manifold. NOW you can
remove the main manifold bolts to remove the manifold.
You can now lift the
manifold up. Use a prop to hold the manifold up and
tilted to the passenges
side, and this will give you just enough room to get
the plugs out and
changed. I would reccomened a new gasket for the intake
manifold at this
time. Now just reverse the steps. One trick though, put the
manifold down on
the lower manifold, but don't bolt it down yet, put in the
EGR pipe FIRST,
the reason being is that with the manifold "loose" you can
move it
a bit to line up the EGR holes, put one bolt in first with the
gasket tilted
up so you can hold it from falling, then once you have the
first bolt in a
few turns, then swing the gasket around and install the
other bolt. NOW do
the rest, and you'll be done!!
END BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
From: Tim
DeKeyser <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, January 13, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: $350 TO CHANGE SPARK
PLUGS??
>***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
>I have asked around all the shops, including the
dealer, and they all say
>that a tuneup for a '91 Dodge Stealth is nothing
but replacing the spark
>plugs and air filter. Nothing has to be done with
the timing or anything
>else. $350 minimum!!! Is this crazy or what???
What can I do if I dont have
>the knowledge/tools to do it
myself??
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>
>***
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 11:00:50
+0100
From: "Robby SOL" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
> Who out there has an EGT sensor? Where did you get
it? And if I do start
> playing with an AFC for my car, how high can the
temps go before I'll
> ruin anything? This is a 1993 R/T NA.
You
can simply do ... nothing with the AFC when you don't use larger
injectors.
I have the Autometer EGT (still not installed) altough it only
shows up to 1600°F (871°C). IMHO, this is already high and I'd like to
keep it always below 850 or even 820°C. You may have a look into our archive
about this topic as there is much more in it !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 09:30:51
-0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
> > Who out there has an EGT sensor? Where did
you get it? And
> > if I do start playing with an AFC for my car, how
high can
> > the temps go before I'll ruin anything? This is a 1993 R/T
NA.
> You can simply do ... nothing with the AFC when you don't use
> larger injectors.
He wants to lean the car out... He has a
non-turbo, therefore the stock sized injectors will work fine.
> I
have the Autometer EGT (still not installed) altough it
> only shows up
to 1600°F (871°C). IMHO, this is already high
> and I'd like to
keep it always below 850 or even 820°C. You
> may have a look into
our archive about this topic as there is
> much more in it
!
You'll probably never see temps this high on a non-turbo. The
best thing to do initially is to get an A/F ratio meter to see what the car's
behavior is at wide-open throttle. If it still targets around .5V signal,
then there isn't much you can do to lean out the mixture anyway.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:15:57
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Sorry for the confusion, I did not notice that it is an
NA.
Anyways, the ECU will probably adapt very soo, especially in closed
loop. We made this experience on my Z28 as we adjusted the fuel pressure and the
ECU adjusted the injector rate ofer a specific time. EGTs for an NA cars often
are in the 720-780 range and unless the timing will be changed I doubt there
will be a problem.... but I also don't see a gain :(
> He wants to
lean the car out... He has a non-turbo, therefore the stock sized
injectors will work fine.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:25:40
-0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Ha! My TT idles at
780F....
Trevor
"R.G." wrote:
> ***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Sorry for the
confusion, I did not notice that it is an NA.
>
> Anyways, the ECU
will probably adapt very soo, especially in closed loop. We made this experience
on my Z28 as we adjusted the fuel pressure and the ECU adjusted the injector
rate ofer a specific time. EGTs for an NA cars often are in the 720-780 range
and unless the timing will be changed I doubt there will be a problem.... but I
also don't see a gain :(
>
> > He wants to lean the car
out... He has a non-turbo, therefore the stock sized injectors will work
fine.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> *** Please make
sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 10:32:39
-0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Ha! My TT idles at 780F....
Trevor
-
---
You;re kidding right..idles at 780 degrees?
Just makin sure I
read right.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:25:28
+0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about ABS
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
As I was in the process of nearly rear-ending
my van into some idiot who
decided to slam on the brakes from 90 mph to take
an exit at the last
minute on the Autobahn this morning, I began seriously
questioning the
activation of ABS.
Why is ABS enabled when braking in
a straight line?
Now, I realize that most cars (perhaps my van included)
do not have a
steering angle sensor, but unless I'm mistaken our cars
do. And it
seems to me that if that sensor shows that the wheel is
straight, it
makes little sense to activate ABS under full braking.
My
reasoning is based on previous discussions we've had in this forum
that
indicated that ABS does in fact INCREASE braking distance over
non-ABS
braking, even (especially?) when the wheels are locked up and
skidding.
Check the archives for details, but the reason was that the
coefficient of
static friction is essentially maintained even when the
wheels are sliding,
since pieces of the tire tear away in the process.
And in the snow, ABS
prevents buildup in front of the tire. Etc. I
apologize in
advance if I misunderstood that discussion and am mistaken,
and I hope
someone will set me straight.
There is little question that ABS is
extremely valuable when you're
trying to steer, but if you're climbing up
someone's tail pipe, or
entering a turn on the race course in a straight,
controlled fashion
(brake BEFORE turning!), I'd rather it did not
intervene.
I think this would be a fairly easy modification; the ABS
system can be
disabled by simply pulling the fuse, so I'm sure a switch could
be
installed that monitors the steering angle sensor and disables ABS
if
the wheel is straight. If the car starts to spin, the driver
would
compensate by turning in the direction of the skid, the sensor
would
show that the wheel is no longer straight and ABS would be activated
as
before.
Question is, does this make sense? The answer must be
no, since none of
the auto manufacturers are doing this. So please
enlighten me! Thank
you. :-)
- --
Jim Matthews
3SI #30
Wiesbaden, Germany
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 11:52:34
-0800
From: Dan Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about ABS -Reply
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
** High Priority **
ABS under
straight line braking...Well, to the best of my knowledge,
ABS is activated
under straight line braking primarily because at the
limit of wheel lock,
different conditions can arise leading to uneven
lock, causing the vehicle to
turn. This may be due to uneven brake
wear, proprortioning (if so equipped),
uneven vehicle weight,
etc...Remember, the only point ABS satisifies is
negating said wheel
lock and provide traction while stopping...Whether in a
straight
line, or in a curve.
As far as what manufacturers deem as
sensible...Well, I'm sure we all
know that a very small percentage of drivers
would know the attributes
of their vehicle at limit of adhesion. While it has
been shown that
ABS increases braking distances in a straight line, the
margins are
negligible for the ordinary driver. I remember seeing a study in
'95
with Emerson Fittipaldi behind the wheel of a 95 Eagle Talon
Tsi
AWD...The goal was to see how a skilled, experienced driver would
fare
against the advent of braking technology. If I remember
correctly, 60mph-0mph
testing in a straight line yeilded a 12 ft
difference in braking without
ABS...But this was Fittipaldi, not your
next door neighbor. Threshold braking
in a vehicle requires extensive
knowledge of where that envelope lies, ands
lets face it, most people
don't put themselves in the postion to know,
(thankfully!). I think
this is clearly a case of the manufacturers satisfying
a need for the
many, as opposed to the wants of a
few.
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:01:13
EST
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Question...please advise
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Being new to the list and the 3000GTs I wanted to
post an e-mail to introduce
myself and hopefully get some information from
the gurus here. I recently
purchased a showroom condition '92 3000GT
VR4 (Silver, loaded, black
interior) for $8400. Problem in (always a
catch) is that the transmission is
bad. When Pep Boys replaced the
clutch for the previous owner (please flame
him, not me...I'd never take a
car there) they neglected to refill the
transmission. So as a result,
I have dropped the transmission and torn it
apart. I've found a
supplier for the bearings and seals (which I definitely
need), but am still
looking for the seal that goes on the outside of the 5th
gear housing and
the oil director that fits underneath the main shaft bearing
on the inside
of the bell housing. I have also found a cheap 6-speed
transmission
that I'm thinking about picking up. My questions are as follows:
1)
Does anyone know how to check a viscous on these cars to determine the
condition of the unit?
2) What would I have to change in order
to use the 6-speed in the car since
it originally came with a 5-speed?
(Cables? Transfer Case? Linkages? Etc.?)
3) Does anyone know where i may
be able to find the last minor parts for the
transmission I currently have
in order to put it back together? (oil
director, seal on outside of
casing)
I appreciate any reply on this!
Since I work at a Mitsu
dealership in the Club/Internet/Tuner Sales dept.
(parts), I would like to
offer the same discounts to everyone here on the
list as well. (25% off of
Mitsubishi list..not inflated dealer pricing).
This is basically good
for any OEM parts with the exception of accesories
(floormats, mudguards,
roof racks, power winches, etc...(joking on the last
couple!!!)). I am
the only person in this dept. that handles Mitsubishi's
though, so please be
patient when trying to reach me. The phone # is (610)
272-8504 and you
now also have my work e-mail address. Thanks again for any
help in
advance, and I look forward to adding any knowledge that I might
aquire on
these cars in the future!
Josh
Conicelli Mitsubishi
***
Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
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and all other important info is at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#25
********************
team3s
Saturday, January 15
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
026
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 14 Jan 2000 14:34:48 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Transmission Swap
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
Josh...
Welcome to the list. There have
been a number of threads about converting
from the 1st generation five speed
to the Getrag six speed. You should be
able to find everything in the
archives. Given the number of failures
associated with the Getrag, I'm not
sure this is a good decision, but check
it out and see for
yourself.
Thanks for the offer to pass on your discount. In which state
& city are you
located? There's also a continued quest for finding
dealerships that knows
the subtleties of our cars. How would you rate the
service department? Any
experienced technicians?
BTW...an Admin note
(I am one of the "founding fathers" of this list)...it
will help
you, and anyone who follows, if you use a subject that reflects
your
question. I changed this one to "Transmission Swap".
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs,
Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.com [
mailto:DSMDealer1@aol.com]
Sent: Friday,
January 14, 2000 2:01 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Question...please advise
Being new to the list and the
3000GTs I wanted to post an e-mail to
introduce
myself and hopefully get
some information from the gurus here. I recently
purchased a showroom
condition '92 3000GT VR4 (Silver, loaded, black
interior) for $8400.
Problem in (always a catch) is that the transmission
is
bad. When
Pep Boys replaced the clutch for the previous owner (please flame
him,
not me...I'd never take a car there) they neglected to refill the
transmission. So as a result, I have dropped the transmission and torn
it
apart. I've found a supplier for the bearings and seals (which I
definitely
need), but am still looking for the seal that goes on the
outside of the 5th
gear housing and the oil director that fits underneath
the main shaft
bearing
on the inside of the bell housing. I have
also found a cheap 6-speed
transmission that I'm thinking about picking
up. My questions are as
follows:
1) Does anyone know how to
check a viscous on these cars to determine the
condition of the
unit?
2) What would I have to change in order to use the 6-speed in
the car since
it originally came with a 5-speed? (Cables? Transfer Case?
Linkages? Etc.?)
3) Does anyone know where i may be able to find the last
minor parts for the
transmission I currently have in order to put it back
together? (oil
director, seal on outside of casing)
I appreciate any
reply on this!
Since I work at a Mitsu dealership in the
Club/Internet/Tuner Sales dept.
(parts), I would like to offer the same
discounts to everyone here on the
list as well. (25% off of Mitsubishi
list..not inflated dealer pricing).
This is basically good for any OEM
parts with the exception of accesories
(floormats, mudguards, roof racks,
power winches, etc...(joking on the last
couple!!!)). I am the only
person in this dept. that handles Mitsubishi's
though, so please be patient
when trying to reach me. The phone # is (610)
272-8504 and you now
also have my work e-mail address. Thanks again for any
help in
advance, and I look forward to adding any knowledge that I might
aquire on
these cars in the future!
Josh
Conicelli Mitsubishi
***
Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubscribe/unsubscribe
and all other important info is at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:49:20
-0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
I posted on here about a month ago and all the
responses called it
pretty normal for my mods...
Idle-740-800F
Cruise
in 6th at 70mph-1360-1400F
WOT-1550-1610F
I've got my EGT probe pretty
close to the head though. The gauge is
ultra responsive.
Trevor
96
R/T TT
12.44@114.6 0-60 3.90 Gtech
92 GMC
Typhoon
13.72@100.2 0-60 4.90
Gtech
"Mohler, Jeff" wrote:
> ***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Ha! My TT idles
at 780F....
>
> Trevor
> ---
>
> You;re kidding
right..idles at 780 degrees?
>
> Just makin sure I read
right.
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
>
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S
list address:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubscribe/unsubscribe
and all other important info is at:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 00:30:33
-0500
From: Bill Wagner <
wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question...please advise
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
DSMDealer:
How were you able to
get ANY parts for the Getrag? Are you getting them
out of trashed units? All
any of the dealerships will give us are
rebuilt or new transaxles. Needless
to say, there's no documentation on
overhauling a unit in a service manual
(just a "swap it" statement), so
very few people on this list will
know how to check ANYTHING in it.
DSMDealer1@aol.com wrote:
>
>
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Being new to the list and the 3000GTs I wanted to post an e-mail to
introduce
> myself and hopefully get some information from the gurus
here. I recently
> purchased a showroom condition '92 3000GT VR4
(Silver, loaded, black
> interior) for $8400. Problem in (always a
catch) is that the transmission is
> bad. When Pep Boys replaced the
clutch for the previous owner (please flame
> him, not me...I'd never take
a car there) they neglected to refill the
> transmission. So as a
result, I have dropped the transmission and torn it
> apart. I've
found a supplier for the bearings and seals (which I definitely
> need),
but am still looking for the seal that goes on the outside of the 5th
>
gear housing and the oil director that fits underneath the main shaft
bearing
> on the inside of the bell housing. I have also found a
cheap 6-speed
> transmission that I'm thinking about picking up. My
questions are as follows:
>
> 1) Does anyone know how to check a
viscous on these cars to determine the
> condition of the unit?
>
> 2) What would I have to change in order to use the 6-speed in the
car since
> it originally came with a 5-speed? (Cables? Transfer Case?
Linkages? Etc.?)
>
> 3) Does anyone know where i may be able to
find the last minor parts for the
> transmission I currently have in order
to put it back together? (oil
> director, seal on outside of
casing)
>
> I appreciate any reply on this!
>
> Since
I work at a Mitsu dealership in the Club/Internet/Tuner Sales dept.
>
(parts), I would like to offer the same discounts to everyone here on
the
> list as well. (25% off of Mitsubishi list..not inflated dealer
pricing).
> This is basically good for any OEM parts with the exception of
accesories
> (floormats, mudguards, roof racks, power winches,
etc...(joking on the last
> couple!!!)). I am the only person in
this dept. that handles Mitsubishi's
> though, so please be patient when
trying to reach me. The phone # is (610)
> 272-8504 and you now also
have my work e-mail address. Thanks again for any
> help in advance,
and I look forward to adding any knowledge that I might
> aquire on these
cars in the future!
>
> Josh
> Conicelli Mitsubishi
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
>
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
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and all other important info is at:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 22:01:29
-0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Getrag :was Question...please advise
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Hi Josh
(DSMDealer)
There are quite a number of informative posts on the trannies
and transfer
cases in our archives, including outlets that do rebuilds and/or
provide
parts. The information you seek, however, is a bit exclusive,
and you might
be better advised to research with and/or contact them for
the
parts/resources you seek. Jack T. one of our more elite
members is
conducting a refabrication of the tranny, so you might wish to
communicate
with him and his progress on a sideband. If you are successful in
your
venture, and you seem resourceful from our sideband communication, I
would
suggest you post back with results so that readers here, like Bill,
can
become equally as informed. It is the purpose of this tech forum to
help
and share in as many ways like this, as we can. Getrag, is and
continues to
be, a reoccurring topic here and any good news is likely to
spread like a
wildfire.
BTW, if you are changing to a 6 speed
you will also have to go with a
transfer case to match, as the spline
patterns are completely different. The
6 speeds are still not better if you
are increasing Horsepower to optimum
levels, and Jack's project will
hopefully result in a healthier solution
than the present problematic
gearbox...that is, before the next
millenium
;-)))
Best
Darc
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bill Wagner <
wagner@sprynet.com>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, January 14, 2000 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question...please
advise
>***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
>DSMDealer:
>
>How were you able to
get ANY parts for the Getrag? Are you getting them
>out of trashed units?
All any of the dealerships will give us are
>rebuilt or new transaxles.
Needless to say, there's no documentation on
>overhauling a unit in a
service manual (just a "swap it" statement), so
>very few people
on this list will know how to check ANYTHING in it.
>
>
>
DSMDealer1@aol.com
wrote:
>>
>> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
>>
>> Being new to the list and the 3000GTs
I wanted to post an e-mail to
introduce
>> myself and hopefully get
some information from the gurus here. I
recently
>> purchased
a showroom condition '92 3000GT VR4 (Silver, loaded, black
>> interior)
for $8400. Problem in (always a catch) is that the
transmission
is
>> bad. When Pep Boys replaced the clutch for the previous
owner (please
flame
>> him, not me...I'd never take a car there)
they neglected to refill the
>> transmission. So as a result, I
have dropped the transmission and torn
it
>> apart. I've found
a supplier for the bearings and seals (which I
definitely
>> need),
but am still looking for the seal that goes on the outside of
the
5th
>> gear housing and the oil director that fits underneath
the main shaft
bearing
>> on the inside of the bell housing. I
have also found a cheap 6-speed
>> transmission that I'm thinking about
picking up. My questions are as
follows:
>>
>> 1)
Does anyone know how to check a viscous on these cars to determine
the
>> condition of the unit?
>>
>> 2) What
would I have to change in order to use the 6-speed in the
car
since
>> it originally came with a 5-speed? (Cables? Transfer
Case? Linkages?
Etc.?)
>>
>> 3) Does anyone know where i
may be able to find the last minor parts for
the
>> transmission I
currently have in order to put it back together? (oil
>> director, seal
on outside of casing)
>>
>> I appreciate any reply on
this!
>>
>> Since I work at a Mitsu dealership in the
Club/Internet/Tuner Sales dept.
>> (parts), I would like to offer the
same discounts to everyone here on the
>> list as well. (25% off of
Mitsubishi list..not inflated dealer pricing).
>> This is basically
good for any OEM parts with the exception of accesories
>> (floormats,
mudguards, roof racks, power winches, etc...(joking on the
last
>>
couple!!!)). I am the only person in this dept. that
handles
Mitsubishi's
>> though, so please be patient when trying to
reach me. The phone # is
(610)
>> 272-8504 and you now also
have my work e-mail address. Thanks again for
any
>> help in
advance, and I look forward to adding any knowledge that I might
>>
aquire on these cars in the future!
>>
>> Josh
>>
Conicelli Mitsubishi
*** Please make sure you are using the
NEW Team3S list address:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubscribe/unsubscribe
and all other important info is at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 10:39:40
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Urgent : Need part numbers for valves (in/out)
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Friends
I'm confused
now ! Here in Switzerland we only have one MD number for the
intake and
another for the outlet valve ... and this is not the same as the
US I have
been given.
If you have the number(s), regardless of the year of the car
(91-99), I'd
highly appreciate it. If there are different numbers for the
year I
definitely need to know the difference of these guys.
Thanks in
advance
Roger
93'3000GT TT
*** Please make sure you are
using the NEW Team3S list address:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubscribe/unsubscribe
and all other important info is at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 07:42:56
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Urgent : Need part numbers for valves (in/out)
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Roger,
Here's what I
have for the '94 VR4
Intake Valve MD172315
Exhaust Valve
MD168241
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Friends
>
> I'm confused now ! Here
in Switzerland we only have one MD number for the
> intake and another for
the outlet valve ... and this is not the
> same as the
> US I have
been given.
>
> If you have the number(s), regardless of the year
of the car (91-99), I'd
> highly appreciate it. If there are different
numbers for the year I
> definitely need to know the difference of these
guys.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubscribe/unsubscribe
and all other important info is at:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#26
********************