team3s            Monday, January 10 2000            Volume 01 : Number 019




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Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 09:50:12 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Alcohol Injection

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Perhaps a quick refresher in the physics of fluid injection for the purpose
of intercooling is in order.

Here in Minnesota, we have about 5 members with water injection systems.  We
do use isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), in mixture with the water.  A
number of us have experimented with different ratios, and don't have a lot
of conclusive evidence yet.  But the physics behind it can not be ignored.
First and foremost, the reason for injecting a fine mist of water is to cool
the combustion temp.  This happens because the water ABSORBS the heat.  It
is a heat transfer agent, just like the tops of the pistons, and the oil the
pistons get coated with.  The difference is we don't care if we vaporize the
water, we just don't want to vaporize the pistons!

Water has a latent heat of evaporation (the amount of energy it takes to
vaporize it), six times that of gasoline.  It is also about 4 times that of
isopropyl alcohol.  What that means is that water is substantially better at
absorbing the combustion heat than gasoline, or even alcohol is.  We use
isopropyl in our mixtures for two reasons.  First, purified water (which we
have to use) is not an electrical conductor.  The water will dampen the
spark that we need to ignite the air/fuel mixture.  Too much water will
actually drown the spark out.  No fire, no power.  The alcohol helps to
conduct electricity, so we still get spark.  This helps maintain a smooth
running car, even with the (relatively) large amounts of water some of us
use.  Second, it is butt-ass cold here.  Water will freeze by itself, but
water with isopropyl will remain liquid, even during our coldest of nights,
and there are still one or two people here that I know of who are running
around with there water injected twin turbos right now.  I don't approve,
but they are doing it.  :-)

As a general rule of thumb I would say about a 50/50 mix is the most alcohol
one should use.  You want the most cooling effect you can get, and that
comes from water, not alcohol.

John Basol
'95 RT/TT


-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 6:52 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Re: Alcohol Injection

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***



-This Saturday, I had the pleasure of getting a ride in Hendricks 94
VR4
that was recently upgraded and tuned by dynamic racing.  The car has
15G
turbos modified by Brian at GT-PRO with HKS intercoolers and hard
lines.  He
is running an RPS turbo clutch.  It has the ARC-2 fuel computer
720cc
injectors and HKS pump.  He ran on pump gas 93 Octane with rubbing
alcohol
injected before the y-pipe (into hardlines) through a small jet.  He
used
the washer spray bottle as a container.  I personally saw him run
1.57 bar
of boost with absolutely no audible knock.  He should be able to run
more
boost with race gas and alcohol.  Its amazing!!  It pulls very hard
and his
tires break lose in 2nd gear.  His clutch was slipping from the
power.  He
still runs with the cats.  I am wondering how alcohol would work in
Rogers
more elaborate (Erls?) injection kit.  It is a very simple set-up,
that
comes on with boost.  The down side is that the alcohol runs out so
fast!!
Maybe a small fuel cell in the hatch area would be a better
solution, or
possible mounted in an open spot under the car?  I wonder if we
could just
add an alcohol injector in and and tune it to respond to boost and
knock?

Sam Shelat



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 10:33:30 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TT Stereo LED

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Try a company called:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors


wizards wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Hi all,
>
> This isn't "extremely" technical, but I've been banging my head against
> a wall trying to find an answer.  I have a 1994 Stealth TT with a
> Factory Infinity Stereo system; the built in Equalizer has these little
> black plastic sliders that are lit on the inside with a tiny (guessing
> 12 volt), yellow LED.  So far I've managed to find replacement black
> sliders from a Mitsu dealer, but after months of searching I haven't
> been able to locate a source to buy the little yellow LEDs that go
> inside the sliders (I've got two that are burned out).  Anyone have an
> idea (my local radio shack and Mitsu dealer have been no help at all).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Greg
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
> team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:51:32 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Replacing tires

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Ahh...yer fine at only 50% used.

Now totally dead tires -vs- a new one, that could be an issue, and really should
be all new tires anyway.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Fred Hamilton [mailto:fred@yonkitime.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 2:35 AM
To: 'Team 3S'
Subject: Team3S: Replacing tires


***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***


Tonight some joker put a pebble in-between my VR-4's tire stem and the
cap, letting all the air out of my left rear tire.  Unfortunately, I
didn't notice it until after I'd driven the car about 1-2 miles at
70MPH.  (That says wonders about how great the rim/tire assembly is or
what an insensitive driver I am.)  When I discovered it, the tire was
red hot, looking almost wet/melted in the area of about 1/4" around the
rim.  I pumped it up and for now it's holding pressure, but I think I
need to replace it.

My question is: how many new tires do I need to buy?  I assume I should
at least buy a pair, but I remember reading/hearing that with the AWD
the diameters of all 4 tires need to be closely matched or there may be
trouble in the front/rear transfer thingamajig.  What's your opinion?
I'd like to avoid buying 4 new tires if I can, but I'll do it if I have
to.  The tires on the car now probably have at least 50% of their usable
tread left.

Thanks,
Fred


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 13:12:49 EST
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New here,Bad lifters?

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>Buy a reputable oil flush product and run it through the engine as per
>manufacturer's instruction. Drain and replace with a new filter and
>Synthetic oil ( I use Mobil). This will hopefully take care of the ticking
>problem.  This is a problem with TT's (however I note yours is an NT) and
>this regularly takes care of it.

I had s similar problem.  The thing which seemed to do the trick for me was
adding a bottle of ValveMedic (I believe that was the name) by Gunk.  After
2 oil changes, the tick went away.  BTW, I only use Mobil 1 5W-30, and
change the oil religously every 3k in my NT.

Hope that helps!

Regards,
   Dennis

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 13:12:52 EST
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New here,Bad lifters?

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***




>Buy a reputable oil flush product and run it through the engine as per
>manufacturer's instruction. Drain and replace with a new filter and
>Synthetic oil ( I use Mobil). This will hopefully take care of the ticking
>problem.  This is a problem with TT's (however I note yours is an NT) and
>this regularly takes care of it.

I had s similar problem.  The thing which seemed to do the trick for me was
adding a bottle of ValveMedic (I believe that was the name) by Gunk.  After
2 oil changes, the tick went away.  BTW, I only use Mobil 1 5W-30, and
change the oil religously every 3k in my NT.

Hope that helps!

Regards,
   Dennis

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 13:52:21 -0600
From: wizards <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Team3S: Kormex Tranies

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***


Hi all ... a week ago or so there were several threads asking questions about
Kormex Transmissions for 3S cars.  Well, I contacted the company and got a
URL for their website just in case anyone is interested.  The website is
fairly new so there isn't much there yet, but it's a start ... oh and in
their response they did give me their 800 number as well.  Hope this helps
someone.

Regards,
Greg

>
> Thank you for your inquiry yes we do it is www.kormextrans.com
> it is nothing special but we are working on it
> if you have any questions our toll free number is 800 429 5464
> feel free to calls us regarding any questions you might have Greg.
>
> thanks again
>
> lucas martin



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 14:39:08 -0700
From: "Ian Calegory" <iancalegory@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stereo Equalizer  LED

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A have a problem with an LED on my system as well that I was wondering if
someone might know about.  The leftmost LED vacillates among the following
three states:   on, off, and blinking.  What might cause this?

1995 3000GT VR-4, factory stereo

Thanks,
Ian

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "wizards" <wizards@mhtc.net>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 9:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: TT Stereo LED


> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> This isn't "extremely" technical, but I've been banging my head against
> a wall trying to find an answer.  I have a 1994 Stealth TT with a
> Factory Infinity Stereo system; the built in Equalizer has these little
> black plastic sliders that are lit on the inside with a tiny (guessing
> 12 volt), yellow LED.  So far I've managed to find replacement black
> sliders from a Mitsu dealer, but after months of searching I haven't
> been able to locate a source to buy the little yellow LEDs that go
> inside the sliders (I've got two that are burned out).  Anyone have an
> idea (my local radio shack and Mitsu dealer have been no help at all).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Greg
>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
> team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
> http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm ***



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 22:21:01 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock stereo in 91 stealth

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Anyone ever had a problem with the volume going up or down on it's own?? How
about the steering wheel controls for the stereo working on and off?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 14:32:54 -0800
From: Todd Leveck <todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock stereo in 91 stealth

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the steering wheel controls only have one ground.  this is attached by wire
directly to the
steering wheel itself... and not through the clock spring.  so... depending
on where the steering
wheel is will depend on whether a good ground is made or not.  this is
because the steering wheel
is attached to the column, shaft, steering box, etc., which is a fair
mechanical ground but  not a great electrical ground.  this is why the
volume will suddenly change, or the mute will only work sometimes
which can be very frustrating.

to correct this problem, you need to run an electrical ground directly
through the clock spring.
and ... the only way to do this is to disconnect the air bag and use one of
these wires for the
electrical ground.   this is what i did.  i don't like air bags... so i
disconnected mine and used one of the air bag clock spring connections for a
solid ground.   now my radio controls work perfectly from  the steering
wheel... but i don't have an air bag.   the choice is yours.

todd
93 vr4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 2:21 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Stock stereo in 91 stealth


***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***


Anyone ever had a problem with the volume going up or down on it's own?? How

about the steering wheel controls for the stereo working on and off?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 14:41:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock stereo in 91 stealth

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Kind of - the volume does not seem to change on its own, but
sometimes it is not well-controlled by the in-dash module. I
have a 92 Stealth with the separate receiver and CD modules. The
volume knob almost always will increase the volume but sometimes
will not decrease it. I found that if I squeeze the knob, it can
work better. The steering wheel volume controls seem to always
work, but the station-change button (rightmost) sometimes
doesn't work. I just attribute it to the charm of the early 3S
electronics and look forward to an upgraded system someday.

Jeff Lucius, '92 Stealth TT (modified)
StealthMan92@yahoo.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 3:21 PM
Subject: Team3S: Stock stereo in 91 stealth

Anyone ever had a problem with the volume going up or down on
it's own?? How about the steering wheel controls for the stereo
working on and off?

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------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #19
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