team3s
Monday, January 10
2000
Volume 01 : Number 018
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 02:35:04 -0800
From: Fred Hamilton <fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Team3S: Replacing tires
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Tonight some joker put a pebble in-between my VR-4's tire stem
and the
cap, letting all the air out of my left rear tire.
Unfortunately, I
didn't notice it until after I'd driven the car about 1-2 miles
at
70MPH. (That says wonders about how great the rim/tire
assembly is or
what an insensitive driver I am.) When I discovered it, the
tire was
red hot, looking almost wet/melted in the area of about 1/4"
around the
rim. I pumped it up and for now it's holding pressure, but
I think I
need to replace it.
My question is: how many new tires do I need to buy? I
assume I should
at least buy a pair, but I remember reading/hearing that with the
AWD
the diameters of all 4 tires need to be closely matched or there
may be
trouble in the front/rear transfer thingamajig. What's your
opinion?
I'd like to avoid buying 4 new tires if I can, but I'll do it if
I have
to. The tires on the car now probably have at least 50% of
their usable
tread left.
Thanks,
Fred
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 05:16:56 -0600
From: "Noah Erickson" <noaherickson@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How fast is your non-turbo
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Um, they aren't still making 3000s at all... '99 is the
last year, and
there are precious few VR4's. BTW, that 'Stang either has
no power mods, is
broken, is driven by an idiot, or a combination of the
above. A modified
5.0L or 4.6L with a good driver should hose a non-turbo.
Well, a medium- to
heavily-modified 4.6L, anyway.
> Your right, Mustangs always try their hand with me, and end
up being
learned
> from the Stealth. Hey, by the way anyone, are they still
making 3000gt's
> with TT and 4WD ?? I would like to look into a new one.
Maybe a 2000
model.
>
>
> Tim
> '91 Stealth TT
> Dallas, TX
>
Noah Erickson
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 # 1954
Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org
#dsm ICQ# 29810261
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 15:12:58 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacing tires
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Fred,
I have gotten a flat, and did not notice it TWICE. The tire most
likely has
damage to it's walls, and the rim may even be cracked. I have
seen the rim
look fine, then find out later that it leaks air from the inner
lip area.
The rims are expensive, and hard to find a used one. I took mine
to a shop
where they fix alumminum rims, and got my moneys worth. You are
looking at a
pair at least - $400 for a good set.
- ----Original Message Follows----
From: Fred Hamilton <fred@yonkitime.com>
Reply-To: fred@yonkitime.com
To: "'Team 3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Replacing tires
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 02:35:04 -0800
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Tonight some joker put a pebble in-between my VR-4's tire stem
and the
cap, letting all the air out of my left rear tire.
Unfortunately, I
didn't notice it until after I'd driven the car about 1-2 miles
at
70MPH. (That says wonders about how great the rim/tire
assembly is or
what an insensitive driver I am.) When I discovered it, the
tire was
red hot, looking almost wet/melted in the area of about 1/4"
around the
rim. I pumped it up and for now it's holding pressure, but
I think I
need to replace it.
My question is: how many new tires do I need to buy? I
assume I should
at least buy a pair, but I remember reading/hearing that with the
AWD
the diameters of all 4 tires need to be closely matched or there
may be
trouble in the front/rear transfer thingamajig. What's your
opinion?
I'd like to avoid buying 4 new tires if I can, but I'll do it if
I have
to. The tires on the car now probably have at least 50% of
their usable
tread left.
Thanks,
Fred
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 12:18:01 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still won't start
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Dave:
This is straight from the service manual for a
91 TT Stealth:
Troubleshooting Hints.
1. Engine cranks, but does not start.
(1) Spark is insufficient or does not occur at
all (on spark plug)
Check ignition coil
Check crank angle
sensor
Check power transistor
check spark plugs
check spark plug cable
(2) Spark is good.
Check ignition timing
I can't recall if you said your spark was
strong or not. Did you check
the power transistor? Let me know if you need the testing
procedure.
I know I have mentioned this before, but are
you sure your camshafts are
in alignment with your crank? I know your timing belt
slipped from your past
posts. If you rotated your crankshaft clockwise to realign
your marks,
chances are your crank is out 180 degrees. I know you think
this is not
possible, but it is and it happens. Mechanicall, it should
not make a
difference. Electronically it does. And chances are
your NO. 4 cylinder is
firing when your No. 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke.
In this regard, note the following
admonishment from the Service Manual:
INSTALLATION OF THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
Turn the crankshaft so that the No. 1 cylinder
is at compression at top
dead center. CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO TURN IT TO
THE NO. 4 CYLINDER
COMPRESSION TOP DEAD CENTER BY MISTAKE!
Install lining up the matchmarks on the crank
angle sensor housing and
the coupling.
Since the work you performed on your car was
timing, and your timing belt
slipped, and our cars have a 1:2 camshaft/crankshaft rotation
ratio, I still
sense that your timing is out 180 degrees. The car worked
before you changed
your belt, it worked after you changed your belt, your belt
slipped,
everything is back together, and now you wont start. THe
only think you
messed with is the timing. Now, I know you disagree, but
please be sure you
checked this before sending your car off on the towtruck.
You can save
yourself A LOT of money, a lot of time, and you wont have to hear
me say "I
told you so!" And I'll be humbled if I'm wrong.
Joe 91TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 12:54:39 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still won't start
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Dave! My car is going through the same thing right now.
Everything is
aligned and in time. but it won't crank back up. The mechanic
doing mine
had everything together, the car was running, and then it died.
Here is the culprit: Crank angle sensor. He accidentily smacked
it when
gerring the crankshaft oil seal off. The car started, was
running, but
died. I reccomend you check out the crank sensor on your car.
Matt
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 14:36:19 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: A/T OD not working
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
On the DSM's which have the same model tranny, but with maybe a
little
different gearing, the weak point is the OD clutch assy. An
o-ring collapses
or deteriorates, and then block at-fluid pressure to the clutch
pack, and
feels like your car is in neutral. Sounds like a bad thing eh?
As long as you haven't tried to put it into OD much, you should
still be ok,
and the fix is from 30 to 200$, and can be done ON CAR. All you
have to do
is remove the passenger front wheel, and the splash shield, and
you will see
the end of the tranny. This is where the clutch pack is, and it
needs to be
removed and inspected. I haven't done it myself, but have heard a
couple
people doing it, and saying it was quite easy.
You can always join club dsm A/T, and ask your questions when you
get more
into the tranny there (on a onelist list). The oring is cheap,
the clutch
pack is about 170$ (1888tallmits).
Good luck!
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org
- "Never Lift To Shift!"
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 14:44:26 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: CD manuals
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I just got caught up on my emails and some other stuff. I ran out
of the DSM
CD's during christmas, and decided to "overhaul" BOTH
CD's. The DSM CD will
get the same gui menu system the 3/S CD has, and I just tested
them both on
windows 2000, and the GUI treats the OS as if it was Windows NT
(I had made
it slightly different for both platforms, transparent to the
user). Windows
2000 was the thing I was really waiting for before sending out
more CD's
that were "untested" on this newer OS (which I'm sure a
lot of people will
end up having)
Both CD's will now have newer versions of adobe acrobat on them,
and one
page re-scanned on the 3/S one. The DSM CD will have the new 2g
tech manual
on it, as well as updated VFAQ.COM and 1000q.dsm.org www sites
(thanks to
Tom Stangl and Sean Costall).
Both CD's will be fully tested by the end of today, and will
likely ship
tommorow (well the outstanding ones and also 2 express ones
atleast, I can
only burn so fast :). I apologize for any delays people have
experienced
recently with thier CD orders, I have about 15 outstanding
orders, which
have taken longer than my usual "less than 2 week"
order processing.
I hope you can all understand, and am sure you will like the CD
even more
with the minor updates. If possible, I will post any applicable
updates to
my www site (below). Thanks again!
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org
- "Never Lift To Shift!"
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 15:28:48 -0600
From: "Kyle Meyer" <kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Starter problems
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I have had the exact same problem with my car for roughly a year
now, just
more consistently... If the key is put in the ignition, and
turned to start
at a normal rate of speed, it will not start. If it is placed
into ACC, and
then turned to start, the car will just sit there. The ONLY way
it will
fire, is if you **rapidly** turn the key from locked all the way
to start.
It's definitely not my starter, it catches and cranks fine once I
move the
key fast. I imagine it's just a problem with the switch (or maybe
a relay).
I've never fixed it because it made it to where I am the only
person that
can start my car (other than Team3s members now :).
If they actually identify the problem sometime I'd be interested
in knowing
what the fix was. If I figure mine out I'll spill the beans as
well.
- -Kyle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chris Winkley
> Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 6:40 PM
> To: 'Tim DeKeyser'; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Starter problems
>
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> Tim...
>
> Check the battery connections. Also check for play in the
switch itself.
> This is especially at risk if you hang bowling balls or
other
> heavy items on
> your keychain. :-) Seriously, the switch
wears and may not
> always make a
> good connection. The symptoms should not have gone away when
replacing the
> starter if the problem could be traced to either of these,
but
> intermittent
> problems can be a bear.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 02:14:11 EST
From: Mrlove7325@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: New here,Bad lifters?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Hi, I have a 93 3000GT N/T .A couple months ago (right after I
bought it) my
car started ticking. I took it in to the dealer and they told me
it was the
lifters and it would cost me 800.00 dollars to fix. Is there a
easier fix? or
am I out of luck? It also started cutting out or
"surging" when I step on the
gas pedal. I changed the fuel filter but it didnt help. Could
these problems
be related? The car only has about 67,000 miles on it.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 07:08:39 -0800
From: "Darcy" <w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New here,Bad lifters?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Hi ?
Buy a reputable oil flush product and run it through the engine
as per
manufacturer's instruction. Drain and replace with a new filter
and
Synthetic oil ( I use Mobil). This will hopefully take care of
the ticking
problem. This is a problem with TT's (however I note yours
is an NT) and
this regularly takes care of it. Then, change oil every
2000-2500
thereafter. It's the best thing you can do for your car. (As a
matter in
passing, with 67000 on it, I hope the timing belt was changed
before you
bought it as this is required at 60,000.) For the surging you
might also try
another additive. Pour in a can of the best Injector Cleaner you
can find.
This "may" take care of it. Add Injector Cleaner every
now and then to keep
them clean.
Best
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mrlove7325@aol.com
<Mrlove7325@aol.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Sunday, January 09, 2000 11:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: New here,Bad lifters?
>***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
>Hi, I have a 93 3000GT N/T .A couple months ago (right after
I bought it)
my
>car started ticking. I took it in to the dealer and they told
me it was the
>lifters and it would cost me 800.00 dollars to fix. Is there
a easier fix?
or
>am I out of luck? It also started cutting out or
"surging" when I step on
the
>gas pedal. I changed the fuel filter but it didnt help. Could
these
problems
>be related? The car only has about 67,000 miles on it.
>
>
>*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
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>http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #18
********************