team3s
Saturday, January 8
2000
Volume 01 : Number 017
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 12:21:04 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> My plans are to install the camber plates, set the car for
3-5 degrees
> negative camber, mark the plates, set it for 0.5 deg
negative for around
> town, and mark the plates again. The idea is to go to
the track, adjust
it
> out to -5 deg, and then try various settings until I can get
the car
dialed
> in properly. I'll use a pyrometer to measure tire temps at
left, right,
and
> center. At the end of the track day, I'll put it back
to the street
> settings for the drive home by going back to the street
marks on the
plates.
>
Your plan to switch at the track cannot work, moving top mounting
positions
to adjust camber will mess up toe in alignment.
as a rule of thumb, increase in negative camber will increase
your caster,
which is good.
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 12:27:51 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still won't start
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
did you make sure the sensor on #3 cam is in alignment with the
distributor?
note that different year T/Ts have different timing sensors.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
To: "'Team 3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still won't start
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> There is NO crankshaft sensor. The sensor is on the #3
camshaft. Thanks
> for the suggestion though.
>
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T ( garage ornament )
> Vancouver, BC
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I think if he were 180 out, he would get some kind of back
firing,
> and crashing of valves. What about the crankshaft
sensor. Maybe
> it's so far off, that the the spark is not occurring at the
right
> time. I miss the good old days of distributors and points!
> --
>
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 15:43:15 -0600
From: "k4ne" <k4ne@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starter problems
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
did you try what i said about turning the key slowly between the
on and
start position. If that doesn't work try pushing the brake hard
to the
floor. Or if you have an alarm system with starter kill check for
bad wire
connection ( starter kill wires are usually two dark brown wires
next to
each other on alarm seperate from other wires these disable
engine start
when alarm is armed) or faults in alarm. If it is none of
these I would say
a bad relay or ignition switch.
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:53 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Alcohol Injection
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
- -This Saturday, I had the pleasure of getting a ride in
Hendricks 94 VR4
that was recently upgraded and tuned by dynamic racing. The
car has 15G
turbos modified by Brian at GT-PRO with HKS intercoolers and hard
lines. He
is running an RPS turbo clutch. It has the ARC-2 fuel
computer 720cc
injectors and HKS pump. He ran on pump gas 93 Octane with
rubbing alcohol
injected before the y-pipe (into hardlines) through a small
jet. He used
the washer spray bottle as a container. I personally saw
him run 1.57 bar
of boost with absolutely no audible knock. He should be
able to run more
boost with race gas and alcohol. Its amazing!! It
pulls very hard and his
tires break lose in 2nd gear. His clutch was slipping from
the power. He
still runs with the cats. I am wondering how alcohol would
work in Rogers
more elaborate (Erls?) injection kit. It is a very simple
set-up, that
comes on with boost. The down side is that the alcohol runs
out so fast!!
Maybe a small fuel cell in the hatch area would be a better
solution, or
possible mounted in an open spot under the car? I wonder if
we could just
add an alcohol injector in and and tune it to respond to boost
and knock?
Sam Shelat
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 00:30:43 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Alcohol Injection
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Unfortunately, knock becomes only audible in the higher gears
with the rpms
around 4800. Above it was not noticeable in my car. Well after I
knew the
compression is gone I made some tests and below 4800 i never had
knock !
Too bad Hendricks has a 94 but I know the Datalogger should work
on it with
an adapter for the diagnostic port. Damn, I wish to have one here
and I'd
make the adapter myselfs !
For the bottle I can get the front bottle we Europeans have in
our cars for
about $50. It's capacity is 4.5 liters and it has the very same
level sensor
as the washer bottle. Simply reconnect it and your done. But with
running
such an amazing high boost (damn, 1.57 bars, almost 23 psi !)I'm
sure it
takes only minutes until also this bottle is empty. On my last
driving
school we had an end session of about 7 minutes and with WI
activated at 0.9
bars (Intercooling) and peaking up to 1.15 bars the bottle was
empty then.
Usually a full bottle (with the ERL it is possible to use some
bottles !) is
enough for a 15-20 minutes race at full boost. My system consits
of two
sprays one controlling additional intercooling and one for knock
control.
The ERL WI system IS compatibly with any alcohol and with the 3D
controller
you can adjust the amount of fluid boost and rpm-wise to get a 3D
surface.
It works well and I can't wait till March when my project is
getting out of
the pit lane. I'm 150% sure all the tires get loose but the
transfer case
will not say "thanks" for a long time. If mine will
become such a monster
too, I must definitely think about some improvements, hehe.
For the alcohol injection I'm still very, very concerned about
knock. How
good look the EGT and how much alcohol is sprayed in as I think a
combination of fuel dumping and water will be the best result !
Maybe it's
too much and with water it would be more efficient ? Have they
tried water ?
Responding to boost is no problem. The ERL System 1 and Spearco
are using a
simple pressure switch, while the System 2 uses an additional
controller
that reads rpm and boost (I took the GM 3 bar sensor) and
alternates the
systems valves. The ERL high pressure racing pump is rated for
about 10 bars
of pressure and provides a great spray pattern, but is also
somewhat, ahem
expensive :( Please note, that with a long line to the pump you
need a good
one and as less bends as possible.
Sam, please keep us updated as I wonder how long the clutch
withstands as it
is only the RPS turbo and not Turbo carbon !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> -This Saturday, I had the pleasure of getting a ride in
Hendricks 94 VR4
> that was recently upgraded and tuned by dynamic
racing. The car has 15G
> turbos modified by Brian at GT-PRO with HKS intercoolers and
hard lines.
He
> is running an RPS turbo clutch. It has the ARC-2 fuel
computer 720cc
> injectors and HKS pump.
<snip>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:57:13 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
After installing my camber plates and adjustable spring perches I
had
the car on the alignment rack for two hours exploring the
interaction of
the various components. As a result I know that the toe in
changes by
4 turns on the tie rod if you go to max camber [ -4 degrees ],
the same
relationship was determined for -2 and -3, the car is set at -1
for day
to day driving.
It's not difficult to check toe at the track with a tape and a
couple of
straight boards or aluminum angles [ I made a special tool to
measure
the toe ].
I didn't mess with caster at all, it's at about 5 1/2 degrees and
I doubt
that changing it over it's relatively narrow adjustment range
could be
detected by someone with my driving skills.
Jim Berry
=================================================
> > My plans are to install the camber plates, set the car
for 3-5 degrees
> > negative camber, mark the plates, set it for 0.5 deg
negative for around
> > town, and mark the plates again. The idea is to
go to the track, adjust
> it
> > out to -5 deg, and then try various settings until I
can get the car
> dialed
> > in properly. I'll use a pyrometer to measure tire temps
at left, right,
> and
> > center. At the end of the track day, I'll put it
back to the street
> > settings for the drive home by going back to the street
marks on the
> plates.
> >
===================================================>
>
> Your plan to switch at the track cannot work, moving top
mounting positions
> to adjust camber will mess up toe in alignment.
>
> as a rule of thumb, increase in negative camber will
increase your caster,
> which is good.
>
>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
> team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
> http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 21:21:46 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Need motorsports sponsorship info
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I am in the process of preparing a sponsorship kit for a Trans-Am
team.
It's been a few years since I've done one of these -- the last
one was for
an IMSA car -- so I've lost track of some of my sources. I need
to find web
sites and magazine articles that have helpful data, attendance
figures,
friendly reports on motorsports sponsorships, and such as that. I
know
where the SCCA TransAm site is, and will be scouring it for race
data. If
you have come across anything useful, please e-mail me the site
or the
document privately. Send it to merritt@cedar-rapids.net.
I'm doing this PR work for free. But, if this works out, I might
realize
the dream that every one of us has -- my payment for doing this
PR work is
that I may be able to drive the TransAm car during a practice
weekend. If
you can imagine what it would be like to drive a 650 hp monster
around Road
Atlanta, then you'll understand my motivation.
All help in finding good stuff will be appreciated.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 20:08:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Alcohol Injection
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Here is a link to pictures of Hendrick's (Lord_DVD)
pictures from today North NJ mini-mini gathering.
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/Lord_DVD.html
=====
- -Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 22:12:16 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still won't start
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----
did you make sure the sensor on #3 cam is in alignment with the
distributor?
note that different year T/Ts have different timing sensors.
Thank you for your suggestion. Unfortunately this will not
work since the
3/S does not have a distributor.
I have checked and re-checked all of the wiring. I checked
to make sure
that the ECU is firing the injectors. There is a pulsing
ground interrupt
on pin 2 of all of the injectors, so I know that this is
working. I have
12V on pin 1 of all of the injectors, so I know that the
injectors are
getting power. I have fuel, spark, and compression. I
do not have a
running engine. Timing is NOT the issue. I never
removed or adjusted the
cam angle sensor. There are NO other sensors that tell the
ECU about engine
position. There is NO way of putting the timing gear on
wrong since it has
a locator pin on it. I have 2 sets of plugs which I have
tried changing out
to make sure that they are not fouled and this is not the problem
either.
I am almost ready to give up and have the car towed into the shop
to get it
fixed ( oh, the humiliation!! ). Please if anyone else has
any suggestions
I would be delighted to hear them.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T ( garage ornament, soon to be listed on
maps as a local
landmark )
Vancouver, BC
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #17
********************