team3s Saturday,

team3s            Thursday, January 6 2000            Volume 01 : Number 013

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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 07:23:15 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How fast is your Twin Turbo? - OFF TOPIC - ADMIN NOTI CE

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Folks...

If you'd like to respond to Tim with your favorite race story, do so
PRIVATELY (not to the list).

Our list charter and rules do NOT allow threads like this. THANKS!!!

Looking forward...Chris (Team3S Admin)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 5:45 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: How fast is your Twin Turbo?

I hope this isn't too immature, but I want to hear some of your best stories

when someone has challenged one of our beautiful cars! As a responsible
adult, I have on occasion taken the liberty to advertise the value of the
cars we drive. So, tell me your story! Here is MINE:
<snip>
Tim
'91 Twin Turbo Stealth
Dallas, TX

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:22:48 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I got my Ground Control camber plates, and will be taking them to my
favorite shop for installation and another alignment on my 1994 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4 AWD twin turbo.

I installed Eibachs last month, and lowered the car to the max (an inch or
so) without cutting anything. My front wheels are only set at zero deg
camber because there is no adjustment left. I'm at the hairy edge, but
within factory specs right now for caster and camber.   I got the camber
plates so I could dial in more negative, thanks to advice from this group.

My plans are to install the camber plates, set the car for 3-5 degrees
negative camber, mark the plates, set it for 0.5 deg negative for around
town, and mark the plates again. The idea is to go to the track, adjust it
out to -5 deg, and then try various settings until I can get the car dialed
in properly. I'll use a pyrometer to measure tire temps at left, right, and
center. At the end of the track day, I'll put it back to the street
settings for the drive home by going back to the street marks on the plates.

Questions:
How does castor interact in all this?
Should I have track and street settings for castor, too?
If so, what do you suggest for each?
Do you have any recommendations for changing castor/camber for various
temperature profiles across the tire? Are there any rules of thumb?
Is there a method of attack for working on the car trackside? (viz, do
this, measure that, then do this)

Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 09:33:16 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

My plans are to install the camber plates, set the car for 3-5 degrees
negative camber, mark the plates, set it for 0.5 deg negative for around
town, and mark the plates again. The idea is to go to the track, adjust it
out to -5 deg, and then try various settings until I can get the car dialed
in properly. I'll use a pyrometer to measure tire temps at left, right, and
center. At the end of the track day, I'll put it back to the street
settings for the drive home by going back to the street marks on the plates.
- ---

Id never use more than -1 to -1.5deg on the street. -3 to -5deg camber would be
required for serious competition use, and on a cheap race compound tire with
lots of sidewall flex to boot. You will be losing a very great deal of road
contact with that much camber dialed in. On stock suspension, Ive found that
- -.8 to -1.2deg camber in front (depending on 245s or 275s) gives me optimal
contact with the road on street tires on a course. Although technically you
could benefit on paper from more camber, the fact is that street tires wont grip
enough to roll the sidewall out enough to make more than -1.5 to -2deg
worthwhile. And if you choice is for course use..use the course to fine-tine
what you will need. Lowered I dont see that you will need more than -2deg on
the front of a VR4 (depending again on tire). I'll be interested to see what
gives good temps and wear patterns. Consider toeing out the front of the car to
the FAR edge of OEM spec. Now that you have lowered your center of gravity,
ackerman effect (turn in) can really start to work in your favor.

Questions:
How does castor interact in all this?
- ---

Camber will give you feedback on the road the more you get, and the more you add
in, the larger and more defined the 'dead zone' will be at center-steering as
you transition from turning one way to the other. IE: A lot of (relative) wheel
movement will cause little sterring movement..then suddenly ZAM lots of steering
movement once you leave that dead-zone.

Should I have track and street settings for castor, too?
If so, what do you suggest for each?
- ---

Some say that the more the better, but use castor for personal feel IMHO.

Do you have any recommendations for changing castor/camber for various
temperature profiles across the tire? Are there any rules of thumb?
Is there a method of attack for working on the car trackside? (viz, do
this, measure that, then do this)
- ---

The hotter the outside of the tire is compared to the inside..get more neg.
camber. (and the other way too)

But, you will get to a point where more neg. camber wont do a thing, because
until you counteract ROLL in the car, youre just shoving way too much lateral
momentum onto the outbound tires.

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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 10:35:27 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Everything affects everything. But more importantly is Toe. Toe changes a
great deal with camber adjustment. So, even with the plates, you still need
to go to the alignment shop. At least twice... once for your race setup and
again for the street setup and mark toe as well!

check out my website... I have a writeup on the GC camber/caster plates in
it!

Also, do you have a camber guague? If not, check out the Smart Camber by
Watkins. It's a precise digital level designed for camber adjust. They also
have a way to do castor but its a little complicated.
www.linkline.com/personal/amahoser

Jose Soriano

> At the end of the track day, I'll put it back to the street
> settings for the drive home by going back to the street marks on the
plates.
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 13:03:46 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Good feedback so far, here is my additional 2 HP ;)...

On the street, you are probably interested in keeping tire wear to a minimum so
you probably don't want too much negative camber. Somewhere between 0 to -1.0
is good IMHO.

For street or track, you probably want the maximum (or is that minimum?) caster
you can get on the front tires. More caster will induce more negative camber
(on the outboard tire) as you turn the wheels. Thus you can be close to 0
camber going straight (for tire wear), but in a turn you can still get negative
camber to maximize tire contact patch & cornering force. I'd be surprised, even
with the GC adjustment plates, if you could attain too great a caster setting
that under the hardest cornering you still wouldn't roll over to the outside
edge of the tire. The pyrometer will tell for sure though.

For the street if tire wear is your primary concern, you want the camber to be
zero or only a little negative, a little toe-in (but not the ridiculous amounts
recommended by many manufacturers), and a caster setting that causes your tires
to wear flat for the cornering forces you normally induce. If the inside of the
tire is wearing faster, first desrease negative camber (but not beyound 0) then
decrease caster. If the outside edge is wearing faster, first increase caster,
then increase negative camber. If the middle of the tire is wearing faster,
decrease the tire pressure. If the outsides are wearing equally faster than the
middle, increase tire pressure.

For the track, you are only concerned in caster & camber settings and tire
pressure that yield the maximum average tire contact patch & grip while
cornering. This is where a tire pyrometer will be invaluable. You probably
will want the maximum caster setting possible on a street car, then increase
negative camber and adjust tire pressure until a few hot laps yield equal
temperatures across the tire surface.

As mentioned before, your toe will change as you raise & lower the car. After a
good alignment, take a measurement of the distance between two points on the
front edge of the tires or outside edge of the rims if you use a gauge. You can
do this with a tape measure, a long stick, or a homemade gauge. Just always use
the same points. Adjust toe last and set to the measurement you took.

- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 15:24:17 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

>
>For the street if tire wear is your primary concern,

No. My major concerns are handling and minimizing wear on the race tires.
I'd like to finish a weekend of racing with nice, even wear across the
front tires. I don't drive that many street miles, but I do have to drive
300+ miles to the tracks.

>
>For the track, you are only concerned in caster & camber settings and tire
>pressure that yield the maximum average tire contact patch & grip while
>cornering. This is where a tire pyrometer will be invaluable. You probably
>will want the maximum caster setting possible on a street car, then increase
>negative camber and adjust tire pressure until a few hot laps yield equal
>temperatures across the tire surface.

There ya go! So what's the maximum street caster setting for a 3000GT VR4?

>
>As mentioned before, your toe will change as you raise & lower the car.

I don't plan to raise or lower the car, unless to correct some handling
quirk or to change the corner loading.

After a
>good alignment, take a measurement of the distance between two points on the
>front edge of the tires or outside edge of the rims if you use a gauge.
You can
>do this with a tape measure, a long stick, or a homemade gauge. Just
always use
>the same points. Adjust toe last and set to the measurement you took.

We used to do this when rallying for a quick fix after we bent a tie rod or
a strut. It's not fun. I'd rather not have to fool with toe trackside.

Thanks for your inputs!

Rich

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:28:08 EST
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT/Stealth WebRing Update

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Hi folks,

   It's been a *long* while since I made some additions to the
3000GT/Stealth Webring, but I have added about 5 more recently (apologies to
those patiently awaiting in the queue), bringing the total up to 61 sites
now. :)

Right now I bet the admins are searching this email, trying to find out what
aspect of this is "technical".
There isn't one. :) I just wanted to make sure the readers of this list are
aware of the WebRing, and of the amount of useful information which can be
found therein. (not to mention nice pictures!)

I would like to point out that this webring contains hundreds of pages of
pics, tips, tutorials, experimental results, etc. compiled via hundreds of
man-hours of love for these cars.

Please peruse the WebRing, and I can guarantee you that you will find some
useful and helpful information. (not to mention some beautiful cars!) Maybe
you will find the answer to that question, maybe you will see the
documentation for a new project to undertake, or maybe you will have a page
you would like to add.

Regards,
   Dennis

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:18:08 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I forgot to mention in the last post, but the book "How To Make Your Car Handle"
by Fred Puhn would be a "good read" for anyone interested in handling.

> >For the street if tire wear is your primary concern,
>
> No. My major concerns are handling and minimizing wear on the race tires.
> I'd like to finish a weekend of racing with nice, even wear across the
> front tires. I don't drive that many street miles, but I do have to drive
> 300+ miles to the tracks.

In that case:
1) Install your GC kit. Set it to max caster & neutral camber setting by
'eyeballing'. On passenger side viewing from top, that would put the top of the
strut at 9 o'clock position. The driver side would be at 3 o'clock.
2) Set race ride height and make final settings by 'weighing the corners'. Mark
these settings so they can be reset any time you raise and lower the car.
3) Have an alignment done. First set the stock camber adjustments to maximum
positive setting. Next set the GC plates to give max possible caster and a
camber setting of -1.0 (or whatever your chosen minimum negative camber value
is). Finally use stock adjustment to set camber at your desired initial track
setting, maybe -1.5 to -2.0.
4) Write everything down, and mark everything as your baseline settings, take
toe measurement.
5) It you plan to ever raise and lower the car, make a toe jig or gauge so you
can reset toe. If ground clearance isn't a problem, just drive the car to the
track as is.
6) Fine tune at the track. Use the tire pyrometer, stock camber adjustment, and
tire pressure to obtain equal temperatures across surface of tire.

> >For the track, you are only concerned in caster & camber settings and tire
> >pressure that yield the maximum average tire contact patch & grip while
> >cornering. This is where a tire pyrometer will be invaluable. You probably
> >will want the maximum caster setting possible on a street car, then increase
> >negative camber and adjust tire pressure until a few hot laps yield equal
> >temperatures across the tire surface.
>
> There ya go! So what's the maximum street caster setting for a 3000GT VR4?

Good question. You will have to tell us after you install the GC adjustment
plates!   From the factory, castor is fixed and not adjustable. Unless someone
else with the GC kit installed speaks up, you'll be the first to report it.
I'll take a guess though and say maybe max will be 4 degrees.

Good luck,
Ken

- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

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------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #13
********************

team3s Thursday, January 6 2000 Volume 01 : Number 014

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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 19:17:08 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting castor and camber

Last I talked to GC, they said they didnt have those plates.

Do you have a part number or name?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 19:22:55 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: GC Plates

Last I talked to GC, they said they didnt have those plates.

Do you have a part number or name?

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #14
********************

team3s             Friday, January 7 2000             Volume 01 : Number 015

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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:02:09 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: GC Camber Plates

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Last I talked to them..I couldnt get any information on thier camber plates.

Do you have a part number, or a contact there friendly to our cause?

Thanks!

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Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 22:20:40 -0600
From: rustyp@swbell.net
Subject: Team3S: Won't Drive in Overdrive

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I have a '93 Stealth ES with the automatic transmission (yea
I know a lot of you manual shifters will ras me but what can
I say, I'm lazy). The only problem it seems to have is when
the overdrive switch is engaged and it tries to shift in to
overdrive (4th gear). At that point it appears the
converter won't lock up. It acts just like it's in neutral
until I turn overdrive off then it returns to normal
operation. I suspect one of the control solenoids located
above the valve body is broken but I don't relish the
thought of removing the valve body to get to them. Has
anyone had similar symtoms and if so what was the fix?

P.S. I am not the original owner and have no way of knowing
what they may have put in this transmission. After reading
some stuff on the net and a service bulletin from chrysler
warning about using Dexron III (even as a top off) I drained
the pan and refilled with ATF 3+ . This didn't help, but in
retrospect I only got out around 5 qts (it holds around 8)
and I didn't use Mopar branded ATF 3+. Anyone (with a
similar experience) think using Mopar branded ATF 3+ would
help?

Thanks,
Rusty in KC

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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:47:25 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Admin: Personal WWW pages for Team3S Members

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Greetings once again!

We currently have a member working on a 'readers-rides' section on the WWW,
which will soon be available as http://members.stealth3000gt.st/~gallery,
and at the same time I would like to announce that by 2.1.2000 I will be
offering personal WWW space to Team3S members on the same WWW server.

Initially there will be a 3Mb quota per user, as this wont be for perosnal
WWW storage, but things concerning and benefiting the Team3S environment.

Whether users want to collaborate and build communities on the server is
totally up to all of you! *grin*

Information on how to request a WWW account on the server will be coming
soon, and should also deliver by 2.1.2000.

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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:47:24 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Admin..list performance.

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Greetings one and all.

I have made some recent list performance work, and the speed of the mailing
list should be phenomenal at this point.

At this time, once my server sees an incoming message, its back out 100% to
the list in about 8-11 seconds. That includes digest processing and
queuing.

Coming "soon" will be the ability to do WWW based searches of the list
itself.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 01:19:14 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GC Camber Plates

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

> Do you have a part number, or a contact there friendly to our cause?

I don't have a part # because I got them used but I am positive they sell
them. I don't think he'll remember me but Jay is the owner there. I have
spoke to him and others about the camber kit on several occasions. They even
faxed me an installation diagram becuase I didn't have one! I even got
quoted a price for the camber kit before I got the used ones! They do sell
them...

I do know that they have two types of sales people there. When I asked about
the camber kits for the first time, the guy had no idea what I was talking
about and had to refer me to someone else. He say he deals with the
"street" guys and someone else delt with the race guys......

here's there web address just in case.....

www.ground-control.com

Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com

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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:36:40 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GC Camber Plates

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I bought the camber plates in Aug of last year --- no part number
just shows 93 stealth AWD, caster/camber plate, 4 bolt.
Talk to Tony at GC I've talked to him a couple of times about
my plates.
I do have a problem with the camber plates that has not been
resolved. There is a needle bearing at the top of the spring retainer
that is chewing up the bearing race after a short number of miles.
It doesn't affect operation but it does make for noisy springs.

Jim Berry >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                               --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines ---
                     GC/Eibach 600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber plate
                             Yokohama AVS sport 255x40x17
                    Porsche/Brembo [ big red ] brakes --- KVR 315mm rotors
                              Roadrace engineering rear strut tower
                       Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

> Last I talked to them..I couldnt get any information on thier camber plates.
>
> Do you have a part number, or a contact there friendly to our cause?
>

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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:50:29 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: GC Camber Plates

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

How difficult are you finding those to install?

I know it takes some "precise" drilling.

Would it be something a technically-minded person like me should tackle, or
should I have a competent speed-shop (One that caters to the SCCA crowd) handle.

Thanks.

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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:57:55 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Still won't start

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

All,

I still cannot get my car to fire. I am really baffled. The motor has
compression. There is spark. When I pull a plug it has fuel on it so I
know the injectors are firing. However, when I crank the motor it does not
fire. It does not cough or sputter or backfire or anything. Totally dead.

Thank you to those who responded to my last post with your suggestions.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T ( garage ornament )
Vancouver, BC

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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:26:09 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still won't start

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

Dave...

You must be getting pretty frustrated by now. I don't remember if I posted
this, or if you already answered this question, but are you sure you're not
180 degrees out of time?

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Holden [mailto:dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 8:58 AM
To: 'Team 3S'
Subject: Team3S: Still won't start

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

All,

I still cannot get my car to fire. I am really baffled. The motor has
compression. There is spark. When I pull a plug it has fuel on it so I
know the injectors are firing. However, when I crank the motor it does not
fire. It does not cough or sputter or backfire or anything. Totally dead.

Thank you to those who responded to my last post with your suggestions.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T ( garage ornament )
Vancouver, BC

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Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 18:55:29 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bad gear syncs in 5-speed

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I bought a '91 Stealth TT with a bad trans to restore. The 5-speed has bad
gear syncs and third is completely gone. The motor is in great shape though.
What could cause this? How do you think the old owner drove this car if the
trans is in such bad shape? Oh, by the way, transmissions are hard to find,
and a new one is $4500-$5000.

I just want to know how the tranny was so badly damaged, with the gear syncs
all shot. Do you think he was racing it or had bad shifting/clutch timing
problems?

Tim
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Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 13:53:54 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still won't start

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I think if he were 180 out, he would get some kind of back firing,
and crashing of valves. What about the crankshaft sensor. Maybe
it's so far off, that the the spark is not occurring at the right
time. I miss the good old days of distributors and points!
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors

Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Dave...
>
> You must be getting pretty frustrated by now. I don't remember if I posted
> this, or if you already answered this question, but are you sure you're not
> 180 degrees out of time?
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Holden [mailto:dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca]
> Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 8:58 AM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Team3S: Still won't start
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> All,
>
> I still cannot get my car to fire. I am really baffled. The motor has
> compression. There is spark. When I pull a plug it has fuel on it so I
> know the injectors are firing. However, when I crank the motor it does not
> fire. It does not cough or sputter or backfire or anything. Totally dead.
>
> Thank you to those who responded to my last post with your suggestions.
> Does anyone have any other suggestions?
>
> Regards,
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T ( garage ornament )
> Vancouver, BC
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
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> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:08:10 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad gear syncs in 5-speed

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

I just want to know how the tranny was so badly damaged, with the gear syncs
all shot. Do you think he was racing it or had bad shifting/clutch timing
problems?
- ---

Yes, yes, and probably..yes.

There is some information floating around here on _probable_ rebuild kits we can
get.

Xwing on the list here will be able to tell you more, but you may be the perfect
person to help out that exact cause..but donating your tranny to have parts
built for it...that will benefit us all.

And..you would get a tranny back and fixed in the process I believe.

Jack..comments?

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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:19:18 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still won't start

***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***

There is NO crankshaft sensor. The sensor is on the #3 camshaft. Thanks
for the suggestion though.

Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T ( garage ornament )
Vancouver, BC

- -----Original Message-----

I think if he were 180 out, he would get some kind of back firing,
and crashing of valves. What about the crankshaft sensor. Maybe
it's so far off, that the the spark is not occurring at the right
time. I miss the good old days of distributors and points!
- --

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team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
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End of team3s V1 #15
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