team3s
Tuesday, January 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number 009
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 17:43:27 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I got the recepie for the tire goo. Here it is:
2 gallons of diesel fuel
1 gallon of lacquer thinner
1/2 gallon of acetone
1 quart of transmission fluid
1 quart of brake fluid
This will make a 4 gallon batch. You should brush it on, and then
check
it in about 15 minutes. you should be able to feel the tires
getting
soft. You don't want to leave it on very long, maybe 20-30
minutes. He
leaves the stuff on overnight for dirt track racing.
Matt
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:05:16 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Theres also a product called "Hot Lap".
Used heavily in dirt track, and AutoX racing.
Not the best link..but I found it on the WWW in "10 links or
less" here:
http://www.guyonracing.com/new.html
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker [mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 2:43 PM
To: mattrt@hotmail.com
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I got the recepie for the tire goo. Here it is:
2 gallons of diesel fuel
1 gallon of lacquer thinner
1/2 gallon of acetone
1 quart of transmission fluid
1 quart of brake fluid
This will make a 4 gallon batch. You should brush it on, and then
check
it in about 15 minutes. you should be able to feel the tires
getting
soft. You don't want to leave it on very long, maybe 20-30
minutes. He
leaves the stuff on overnight for dirt track racing.
Matt
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 01:30:02 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Need to buy Hella "improved" high/low
beam headlights
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Oki, seems that the BEST way to solve my problem is to get Hella
replacements
for my 1992 RT/TT...
Anyone knows where I can buy these over the net, or anyone have
some for
sale ?
Best
Henri
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:54:53 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
>I got the recepie for the tire goo. Here it is:
>
>2 gallons of diesel fuel
>1 gallon of lacquer thinner
>1/2 gallon of acetone
>1 quart of transmission fluid
>1 quart of brake fluid
- ---------snip---------
I know nothing about this stuff, or whether it works or not--
I've
only used "doing a quick burn" to heat up and soften
the tires. But
just logic tells me that a strong WARNING should go along with
it!
Since lacquer thinner IS often a form of acetone, both are
incredibly volatile, and all the fluids listed are pretty
aggressive, I'd be VERY careful how and where I applied it.
I'll assume that it's meant for applying to tires that are OFF
the
car... If they were ON the car when the goo was applied,
there'd be
a patch touching the road that never got softened. That's a
good
way to rip a tire apart once it's moving. Also, you don't
want
acetone or anything like it anywhere NEAR your finish, brake
lines,
brakes or anything made of rubber or plastic. The only
plastics
that acetone DOESN'T dissolve are the nylons and teflons and
polycarbonates. Most of the plastics on cars are
acrylonitriles
(rubberized plastic), and the thinner that's used to remove or
dissolve it is acetone.
USE breathing equipment it if you're anywhere near this
stuff! One
lungfull of acetone vapors will take out your lungs faster than a
lifetime of smoking. Women use a dab of acetone to remove
their
nail polish and it stinks up an entire room, so you can imagine
how
a gallon and a half of it smells.
This concoction was probably invented by a tire jockey that drove
through the various fluid spills down at the old filling station
and
took a 1/2 second off his track time that day. And it makes
sense
that it probably *could* work. But I'd go with the
commercial
products before I'd consider using it. Pretty dangerous
brew,
IMO...
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:45:19 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
All,
I have completed reassembly of my engine after the 60K
tune-up. The car
will not start. There is no check engine light, but the car
probably has to
run for a while before an error code is set. It has fuel in
the rail and it
has spark. I have checked all of the connectors on the
intake end of the
motor. These include the AF sensor, TDC sensor, rear bank
fuel injectors,
ISC motor, and the crank angle sensor. They are all
connected properly. I
checked the harness at the TDC sensor and at injector number
3. All
measurements were correct per the tests in the manual. The
only test result
that did not agree with the manual was the impedance test across
the two
pins of the injectors on the device side of the connector.
They are
supposed to have between 13 and 16 ohms resistance and all 3 of
mine on the
front bank are reading 0 resistance.
The motor cranks fine. Even though I have not checked the
compression after
my timing belt skipped, there is no backfiring though the intake
or exhaust
so I think that the valves and cam timing are OK. Sometimes
the motor seems
to almost fire, but never even comes close to starting. I
am working my way
though the troubleshooting chart, but it is very time-consuming
to perform
all of the tests without the MUT and without the assistance of
another
person.
Any suggestions??
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T (still R.I.P.)
Vancouver, BC
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:19:52 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I've seen this more than a few times. Sometimes plugs can
get fuel fouled
during these first-time startup procedures. If you have not
already done so
since the first few failed starts, try throwing in a properly
gapped new set
(the cheaper copper core will do for now) and try again.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> All,
>
> I have completed reassembly of my engine after the 60K
tune-up. The car
> will not start. There is no check engine light, but
the car
> probably has to
> run for a while before an error code is set. It has
fuel in the
> rail and it
> has spark. I have checked all of the connectors on the
intake end of the
> motor. These include the AF sensor, TDC sensor, rear
bank fuel injectors,
> ISC motor, and the crank angle sensor. They are all
connected
> properly. I
> checked the harness at the TDC sensor and at injector number
3. All
> measurements were correct per the tests in the manual.
The only
> test result
> that did not agree with the manual was the impedance test
across the two
> pins of the injectors on the device side of the
connector. They are
> supposed to have between 13 and 16 ohms resistance and all 3
of
> mine on the
> front bank are reading 0 resistance.
>
> The motor cranks fine. Even though I have not checked
the
> compression after
> my timing belt skipped, there is no backfiring though the
intake
> or exhaust
> so I think that the valves and cam timing are OK.
Sometimes the
> motor seems
> to almost fire, but never even comes close to
starting. I am
> working my way
> though the troubleshooting chart, but it is very
time-consuming to perform
> all of the tests without the MUT and without the assistance
of another
> person.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Regards,
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T (still R.I.P.)
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:49:11 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: One Piece Steal Driveshafts
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Before I go and have one made... what are people currently paying
for one
piece steal driveshafts for VR-4s?
I'm guessing $240 tops.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 21:08:09 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: ADMIN: List explosion
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Were not sure why at this time, but Majodomo decided to hit the
bottle on me
over here in the bunker.
Its behaviour, although not expected, has been corrected by
removing the
pretty blue cable from the back of the box, and resetting the
mail queue.
You will not see this happen again.
Sincere apologies, and mail those estimates for new 'Del' keys to
gemohler@pacbell.net.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:06:39 -0000
From: "Simon Jones" <Team3S@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Hi,
If you're talking about a TT then the speed sensor is
electronic. The
sensor is mounted on the gearbox. The signal goes to three
places, the ECU,
the Cruise Controller and also to the instrument cluster
(speedometer).
Where does your car come from? If it was imported from
Japan, the chances
are that its got the Japanese restriction on it, which is around
110 MPH. I
live in the U.K. and had this problem, along with the fact that
the
speedometer is in KPH and the cruise control wouldn't work above
70 MPH.
After investigating various options, I opted for the DIY approach
which
involved designing a little black box which divided the frequency
of the
signal from the speed sensor by 1.6 (KPH to MPH ratio) and
inserted this
between the sensor output and all three of the
destinations. This changed
the speed limiter up to around 180 MPH, converted the speedo into
MPH
without changing the scale and made the cruise control work above
70 MPH.
If you want any other info. let me know privately.
Happy New Year,
Simon Jones
'94 GTO
simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
http://www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
> -----Original Message-----
> From: k4ne [mailto:k4ne@gateway.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 6:23 PM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
>
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that stops my
3000gt at 120 mph
> and won't allow it to go faster even though it has plenty of
pedal left.
>
> 94' red 3000gt custom
>
>
>
>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
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>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 09:31:36 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
You sound like you know what you are doing, but is it
possible that
there is a pinched wire to the rear injectors? I'll check
tonight,
but I do remember my injectors reading around 13 Ohms or
something
like that.
If you pull one of the spark plugs from those 3 injectors,
can you
see fuel on it? That would tell you if the injectors are
really firing.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
Dave Holden wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> All,
>
> I have completed reassembly of my engine after the 60K
tune-up. The car
> will not start. There is no check engine light, but
the car probably has to
> run for a while before an error code is set. It has
fuel in the rail and it
> has spark. I have checked all of the connectors on the
intake end of the
> motor. These include the AF sensor, TDC sensor, rear
bank fuel injectors,
> ISC motor, and the crank angle sensor. They are all
connected properly. I
> checked the harness at the TDC sensor and at injector number
3. All
> measurements were correct per the tests in the manual.
The only test result
> that did not agree with the manual was the impedance test
across the two
> pins of the injectors on the device side of the
connector. They are
> supposed to have between 13 and 16 ohms resistance and all 3
of mine on the
> front bank are reading 0 resistance.
>
> The motor cranks fine. Even though I have not checked
the compression after
> my timing belt skipped, there is no backfiring though the
intake or exhaust
> so I think that the valves and cam timing are OK.
Sometimes the motor seems
> to almost fire, but never even comes close to
starting. I am working my way
> though the troubleshooting chart, but it is very
time-consuming to perform
> all of the tests without the MUT and without the assistance
of another
> person.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Regards,
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T (still R.I.P.)
> Vancouver, BC
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
> team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #9
*******************
team3s
Tuesday, January 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number 010
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:52:11 CST
From: "Roger Wardrop" <rogerwardrop@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the passenger side
outlets are
mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and seeing exhaust
from only the
driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting off the
small muffler
from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help split
the exhaust
better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly appreciate
it.
Thanks,
Roger Wardrop
1995 3000GT VR-4
1992 Galant VR-4
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 07:42:25 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
No..its really more of a flow issue.
The path to the pass. side just isnt "easy" like the
drivers.
Mostly cosmetic..
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 10:14:25 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
>I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the passenger
side outlets are
>mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and seeing
exhaust from only the
>driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting off
the small muffler
>from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help
split the exhaust
>better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly
appreciate it.
While I was snooping through a parts book the other day, I
spotted a
Y-connection that goes from a 3 in. pipe to two 2-1/2 in. pipes.
It was
like $35 or so at the local NAPA store. You could
have your muffler shop
weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat, routing one
side to
the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then cut
off and
plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would exhaust
equally on
both sides.
I am thinking of doing the same thing, except I would discard the
stock
mufflers and run pipes to two stubby straight-through
mufflers. That way,
I could save the stock system for future use. I am also
considering
replacing the entire furshlugginer system with a single
pipe/muffler from
the downpipe back. I'll decide before Spring gets here.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:35:05 -0800
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
What about the Bozz Dual Cannon muffler system? It's only
for the VR-4, and
it's supposed to go from the Turbo's back thus creating a true
dual exhaust.
Is this system any good?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 10:36:13 -0600
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Question about the stock exhaust. My switch for the
tour/sport mode does
not work anymore. Is there an easy way get the stock system
to work(stuck
on sport mode), or is going w/ an aftermarket exhaust a better
choice. If I
go to an aftermarket system, and I going to get any trouble w/
the
sport/tour lights flashing or anything like that?
Also I can not recall from previous posts if I will see any
trouble codes if
the main cat is removed? Don't really need it or the
precats as we do not
have inspections in Kansas.
TIA
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Manager
Sko Automotive
913-780-3700
Business Hours: Mon-Tue-Thu=8:30-8:00
Wed-Fri-Sat=8:30-6:00
Sun-Closed
www.steveoliverdodge.com
www.sunflowerdodge.com
www.sunflowermazda.com
www.sunflowerhyundai.com
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Roger Wardrop <rogerwardrop@hotmail.com>;
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> >
> >I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the
passenger side outlets
are
> >mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and
seeing exhaust from only
the
> >driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting
off the small muffler
> >from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help
split the
exhaust
> >better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly
appreciate it.
>
> While I was snooping through a parts book the other day, I
spotted a
> Y-connection that goes from a 3 in. pipe to two 2-1/2 in.
pipes. It was
> like $35 or so at the local NAPA store. You
could have your muffler shop
> weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat,
routing one side to
> the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then
cut off and
> plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would
exhaust equally
on
> both sides.
>
> I am thinking of doing the same thing, except I would
discard the stock
> mufflers and run pipes to two stubby straight-through
mufflers. That way,
> I could save the stock system for future use. I am also
considering
> replacing the entire furshlugginer system with a single
pipe/muffler from
> the downpipe back. I'll decide before Spring gets here.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:43:00 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat,
routing one side to
> the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then
cut off and
> plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would
exhaust equally on
> both sides.
No, because you have two different muffling systems on both side.
The pass side is only a small muffler that tones the sound and it
will become the lesser restriction.
It is much, much easier getting the Borla system as it comes with
the appropriate hangers, stainless steel quality and good
mufflers. For less than $490 I doubt one can get a good system
for less in the same quality. Of course if one welds the stuff by
itselfs it would be ok. What you need is a straight 3" pipe
from the cat or testpipe. An Y after the diff and two mufflers.
They must be small as the pass sides space is limited. Then get
the right tips you want and some bent pipings that goes into the
mufflers. Now the stuff needs hangers and clamps and also get the
stuff in T304 stainless steel quality and the bends mandrel bent.
Count this together with one doing the work and you're at the
Borla price.
A single system is for sure easier and even lighter. Use a large
but light muffler and you'll get a silent but powerful exhaust.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:02:55 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off after
a little
while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:12:11 -0800
From: Todd Leveck <todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
check your mas air flow sensor & connector... and air filter.
todd
93 vr4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:03 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off after
a little
while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 13:32:41 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
It could also be the Oxygen sensor.
Todd Leveck wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> check your mas air flow sensor & connector... and air
filter.
>
> todd
> 93 vr4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:03 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off
after a little
> while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
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- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 13:47:49 EST
From: XCricKX@AOL.COM
Subject: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Anyone here know's if its normal in other cars to get 4500rpm @
80mph? if so is there anyway to adjust it or something to
bring down the rpm low at 80mph?
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 07:57:15 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Any fuses blown? I had this problem after installing my
FIPK a few
years ago... I didn't unplug the battery during installation to
reset
the ECU, and when the MAF reported too much air, a fuse was
blown. It
would crank over but not fire, just as you're experiencing.
Unplugging
the MAF, replacing the fuse, and reattaching the MAF harness (and
$200
to the Dodge dealer for figuring it out!) did the trick. In
your case
it probably has nothing to do with the MAF, but perhaps some fuse
took a
hit?
Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:02:27 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
The check engine light is activated when the ECU receives
repeated values
beyond a set range from any of the following devices:
ECU
Oxygen sensor
Air flow sensor
Intake air temp. sensor
Throttle position sensor
Coolant temp. sensor
Crank angle sensor
TDC sensor
Barometric pressure sensor
Detonation sensor
Ignition timing adjustment signal
Injector
Ignition coil, power transistor unit
The light comes on when the ECU detects invalid signals coming
from any of
these devices for more than a specified amount of time or
repeated
occurrences. Once the values return to normal, the light
will go off. In
order to find out which device is the culprit, you need an error
scan tool
or a service manual and a multi-meter and lots of patience.
You can put a
voltmeter across pins 7 and 8 (numbered starting at the top left
of the row
with two blank pins on it) of the MPI self-diagnosis connector
(16-pin
connector located just above the dead pedal) and record the
output patterns.
These patterns consist of one or more long highs, followed by one
or more
short highs (sort of like morse code). If you can determine
the error code,
then I would be happy to look it up for you and tell you which
component to
check.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver, BC
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Tim DeKeyser
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:03 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off after
a little
while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 13:17:18 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>Anyone here know's if its normal in other cars to get 4500rpm
@ 80mph? if
so is there anyway to adjust it or something to bring down the
rpm low at
80mph?
Shift up, quick! You are (a) in a lower gear or (b) your
clutch is
slipping badly.
Did you know you have a six-speed? Sounds like you are
running around in
4th gear.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #10
********************
team3s
Tuesday, January 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number 011
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:26:08 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----From: XCricKX@AOL.COM <XCricKX@AOL.COM>
>Anyone here know's if its normal in other cars to get 4500rpm
@
80mph? if so is there anyway to adjust it or something to
bring
down the rpm low at 80mph?
It's normal if you're running in 3rd gear!?! (On my
5-speed,
anyway). Try shifting into 4th! :-)
Seriously... At constant speed, you'll always show the same
RPM for
a given gear, and it's not adjustable. Many other
performance cars
do the same thing, with close gearing to keep you in a
"power" state
for handling and control. If you're in changing traffic,
that's a
good powerband to be in for quick response. But if you're
on a long
trip with no road or traffic conditions, go to the next gear (or
two).
F
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:15:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Andrew Burke <burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> Anyone here know's if its normal in other cars to get
4500rpm @ 80mph?
> if so is there anyway to adjust it or something to bring
down the rpm
> low at 80mph?
what gear are you in?
you might try upshifting if you have another gear left. If
you're running
4500rpm @80 in 5th or 6th(in the second gen cars) then I think
you have a
problem.
I think, without testing it and not having driven on the highway
in a
couple weeks, that 4500rpm @80 would be about right for 4th?
Maybe
3rd. (in a first gen)...
I'm definitely not knowledgeable to say this for sure, and would
love
feedback from the other list members as to wether this might be
it if he's
in 5/6th... clutch is slipping? But wouldn't that be
accompanied by a
burning smell? I'm probably totally off base...
but again, it matters what gear you're in...
andy
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:19:27 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@bigcharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> you might try upshifting if you have another gear
left. If
> you're running 4500rpm @80 in 5th or 6th(in the second gen
> cars) then I think you have a problem.
Umm, maybe he has an NA car with an automatic?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:07:11 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Tim DeKeyser wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off
after a little
> while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
Check the MAS. Have you modified it? I have, and my check engine
light
comes and goes. The ECU learns there isn't a problem, and
cancells the
error code.
Matt
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:14:58 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_00CE_01BF56D7.3A6024C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
This is what we did on our 92 StealthTT, and 95 VR4.
A local Bay-Area resident or two has seen it, and others in
Tulsa/Dallas/Houston as well.
http://www.tgn.net/~gemohler/exhaust.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Roger Wardrop <rogerwardrop@hotmail.com>;
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> >
> >I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the
passenger side outlets
are
> >mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and
seeing exhaust from only
the
> >driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting
off the small muffler
> >from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help
split the
exhaust
> >better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly
appreciate it.
>
> While I was snooping through a parts book the other day, I
spotted a
> Y-connection that goes from a 3 in. pipe to two 2-1/2 in.
pipes. It was
> like $35 or so at the local NAPA store. You
could have your muffler shop
> weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat,
routing one side to
> the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then
cut off and
> plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would
exhaust equally
on
> both sides.
>
> I am thinking of doing the same thing, except I would
discard the stock
> mufflers and run pipes to two stubby straight-through
mufflers. That way,
> I could save the stock system for future use. I am also
considering
> replacing the entire furshlugginer system with a single
pipe/muffler from
> the downpipe back. I'll decide before Spring gets here.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>
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>
------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #11
********************