team3s
Sunday, January 2
2000
Volume 01 : Number 006
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 23:22:40 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Belt tension set-up
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In a message dated 1/1/00 8:19:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca
writes:
<< Huh??? As long as the marks line up you are timed
right. I think I know
what you are getting at, but it is not possible for the crank to
be 180
degrees out. Lining up the marks ensures correct piston
position. The
crank does not care if it is on a compression or an exhaust
stroke.
>>
You are correct. However, it is not piston position that I
am concerned
about but ignition and injector timing. The position of the
crankshaft
determines whether the proper plug and injector fires on the
proper strokes.
The crankshaft position on our cars is determined by the crank
angle and TDC
sensor. I don't know whether the angle sensor is 360 degree
sensitive, but
if it is, then your crank can be 180 degrees out.
The crank angle and TDC sensors also determine
injector pulse by sending
signals to the MPI computer and also calculates the amount of
intake air.
Therefore, if the sensor is 360 degree sensitive, the injectors
can also fire
on the wrong stroke. Since adjusting the belt is a time
consuming process, I
personally would not take the chance and would ensure that my
crank is in
time with the cams.
Joe 91TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 23:29:39 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Belt tension set-up
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I might also add that the replacement of the crank angle
sensor/TDC sensor
requires that the No. 1 cylinder be placed on the compression
stroke, which
suggests that the sensor is 360 degree sensitive.
Joe 91TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 00:40:30 -0500
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Strange noise coming from my car....update...NOW
WHAT!!
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Last week I posted the following (excerpt):
The noise is SIMILAR to that of a bearing going bad (woo-woo-woo
sound),
but I've checked the wheel bearings, a transmission shop checked
the
bearings, and a dealership checked them before going out of
warranty. I
noticed the noise about a year ago, and it hasn't gotten a lot
worse,
but then again the car only gets driven about 7000 miles a year
anyway.
Here's the update for those that were interested as well as a new
question:
After doing several experiments with tire rotation and varying
the tire
pressures radically (all to no avail), I took the car out on a
freeway
that I knew had several different types of pavement on it
(concrete, new
asphalt, old asphalt, etc). I locked the speed at 47 MPH using
the
cruise control, and was able to postively identify the noise as
tire
noise. On the concrete or old asphalt the noise is barely
detectable,
but on the new asphalt (stickier??) the noise was VERY
noticeable.
The new question is "why the woo-woo-woo sound?". When
I come to think
of it in retrospect, the noise was first noticed right after I
replaced
2 of my old Pirelli P7000 Super Sports with a new pair. I don't
know a
lot about tires, but I've heard of a defect called ply
separation. Could
my newer tires be suffering from this? Has anyone had this
problem or
any tire problems with the types of symptoms I'm describing?
Thanks, Bill Wagner
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 07:12:07 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Twin turbo no faster than geo
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Help! I have a ‘91 Twin Turbo Stealth with 100K miles on it
and in very good
condition. Power was great until the intake hose popped off while
hammering
it one night. It was replaced (because the gasket was damaged)
and now the
car is so slow I rather be driving a Geo! The boost will not go
higher than
50% of what it used to, and the Dealer has run EXTENSIVE tests,
and says
everything is fine....!!?? This car has been babied all its life
and regular
maintenance. It has not had a tune-up in a while, but then why
the loss of
power after the intake popping off the manifold? As a matter of
fact 2 more
shops have looked at it, and have no idea what it is. Anyone got
an idea?
This car should 'take-off' if it really had 300hp... right??
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 08:15:17 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
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k4ne <k4ne@gateway.net>
wrote:
>
> > How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that stops
my 3000gt at 120 mph
> > and won't allow it to go faster even though it has
plenty of pedal left.
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> [ ... ] not to sound like your mother (coz im guilty too)
but isn't 120 fast
> enough?
Depends where he lives (I couldn't tell from his Email)!
:-) A few of
us legally exceed that in our daily commutes...
> Lastly, you may be requiring a complete ECU upgrade from a
company like
> G-Force etc. But the costs involved in such an upgrade
to only remove the
> Attrition-Limiter (tm) may be limiting in itself.
My understanding (at least on the turbos, I assume it's the same
on the
N/A cars) is that the speed limiter actually does not have a set
speed
at which it steps in, rather it monitors acceleration, TPS and
probably
a few other variables and, when the car is no longer accelerating
acceptably fast for the conditions, it limits speed (I think this
is
what Geoff means by "attrition-limiter"). So, I
see two options: 1)
upgrade the ECU to alter/remove this limiter, or 2) increase
engine
performance so that the car accelerates faster than the threshold
at
120mph! :-)
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 12:54:49 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
This is a topic a lot people have an opinion. Fact is that some
think that
there is a limiter and some run their cars up to 170 and more mph
(me as an
example). The ECU is not able to measure speed as the motion
sensor is not
that fast and therefore there must be anything else that is
responsible for
any limit. I'd say it's drag and power because the stock ponies
do not help
to push the car far behind 120mph or 155mph.
G-Force says that they remove the governer although my comparison
only
showed a locked and changed fuel map and two ignition maps.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 13:05:26 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Twin turbo no faster than geo
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Tim, popping off the y-pipe normally happens only if there is
more than
14-15psi applied. If the pipes gasket was damaged, I'd say that
there isn't
one anymore now. This because Mitsu is not selling the gasket
alone as you
have to get the whole y-pipe (stupid) or you gonna make your own
one. In my
point of view there is a big leak in the intake. You can make the
easy test
: Remove the hose that is running off the y-pipe ellbow and cap
the now open
nibble. Then run the car but be careful as in this condition, the
car is
able to make 20 psi and more. Immediatly lift your foot wehn
boost exceeds
too much. If this happens, the engine and intake parts are ok and
the
problem is the stock boost solenoid that is probably stuck in the
closed
position (6 psi max boost then)
If you cannot boost up with the disconnected hose you must check
all IC
hoses for cracks and also the bypass valve that is maybe leaking
heavily. If
there is no problem with that then you have an engine or turbo
problem. For
the first a compression test must be done as a popping off y-pipe
causes a
bang in the engine and may blow a ring or two. Not painting black
but I'd do
a compression test anyways with 100k miles !
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 09:10:52 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> > > How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that
stops my 3000gt at 120 mph
> > > and won't allow it to go faster even though it has
plenty of pedal left.
The ECU doesn't control the top speed. It can't monitor the MPH
you are
going. The speedometer cable is purely mechanical and runs from
the
transmission to the instrument cluster. Belive me! I have
replaced 2
speedo cables, and they aren't fun.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 11:48:41 -0500
From: Rick <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale-Y-pipe
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
AlamoMotorsports Y-pipe for sale.
It is wrinkle black (powder coated) and replaces the plastic one
that our
cars come with from the factory. This is the one that holds
high boost.
First $120 takes it.
Also, have some Factory Chrysler/Dodge service manuals for
sale. 92
Stealth electrical only- $30, 93 Stealth both manuals- $50.
Also have Laser/Talon manuals too. 93 and 94 model years.
(have both)
All manuals are still wrapped in the plastic. Brand new.
All manuals are $50 for the set of two, except for the 92 Stealth
(I only
have the electrical one) which I would take $30 for.
First come first served only have two sets of each left.
rick@ceo-consulting.com
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 18:21:35 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Parts for sale-Y-pipe (Admin Message)
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Admin Message :
Please respond only privately (rick@ceo-consulting.com)
to such messages if
you have any questions.
Please mention this when you place an add.
Thanks
Roger for the Admins
> AlamoMotorsports Y-pipe for sale.
<snip>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 10:32:11 -0700
From: "Cory Eskelsen" <ceskelsen@email.msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should I
consider purchasing?
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 18:56:39 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should I
consider purchasing?
Nice from Santa, hehe. The pump alone gives you nothing. The
Stage 2 Upgrade
is Pump, Injectors and Fuel Controller. Therefore, safe the money
for the
full upgrade.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 10:03:12 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Well..let the guy go in "pieces" of the upgrade.
Pump is a safe thing to do first.
Given that..what should he use?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> > Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should
I consider
purchasing?
>
> Nice from Santa, hehe. The pump alone gives you nothing. The
Stage 2
Upgrade
> is Pump, Injectors and Fuel Controller. Therefore, safe the
money for the
> full upgrade.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
>
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:06:50 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
The 2 best direct boltins:
HKS 3000VR4 upgrade, about $400, 90 gal/h at ?45 psi;
flows up to 160psi
took me to 10's through all-stock fuel system (except injectors).
Unquestioned
quality, most flow available in boltin, "transparent"
operation (can't tell
anything
different, just flows more if you need it).
Supra TT pump, about $190, 63.4gal/h at 65psi through
the whole DSM fuel
system
including filter, fuelrail Lowell Foo TESTED it on; flows well
past 110psi.
Cheap, from Toyotaparts.com
Whether the Supra pump is exactly same as HKS is in question,
supposedly the
HKS
is originally used on Mazda Cosmo.
There are "Walbro" pumps, Paxtons, Weldons etc if
you want to adventure into
the noisier/cheaper/claiming-to-be-better realm. Not for
me.
Stock VR4 pump did 26.4 gal/h at 65psi through the DSM fuel
system.
Jack Tertadian
Atomic Motorsports :) can get you that HKS if you
like!
Cory Eskelsen wrote:
> Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should I
consider purchasing?
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #6
*******************
team3s
Sunday, January 2
2000
Volume 01 : Number 007
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 13:27:46 EST
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Happy New Year to all,
Great to hear about the new list server. Thank you
all Admins for the great
work/efforts!!!!!
I agree with Roger, the pump upgrade won't do much by
itself.
But my personal recommendation to Cory is the HKS fuel pump (when
you're
finally ready for that stage of upgrade). But he will NOT
notice a
difference until he changes his injectors and gets a fuel
controller.
The "Piece" upgrade I'll recommend in my opinion
is: do the fuel controller
upgrade first (if you can, get the injectors and pump at the same
time). And
get ready for some serious PULL !!!!!!!
Then Turbos...then Intercoolers...OHH..Sorry...got carried
away........and
the saga continues....
By the way Roger, I still haven't forgotten!! Give me
a few weeks on that
GN coil pack.
Ahmed "AL-CraZy" - '92 VR4
In a message dated 1/2/00 12:05:21 PM Central Standard Time, gemohler@tgn.net
writes:
<< Well..let the guy go in "pieces" of the
upgrade.
Pump is a safe thing to do first.
Given that..what should he use?
----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> > Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should
I consider
purchasing?
>
> Nice from Santa, hehe. The pump alone gives you nothing. The
Stage 2
Upgrade
> is Pump, Injectors and Fuel Controller. Therefore, safe the
money for the
> full upgrade.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> >>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 12:40:08 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@bigcharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> The ECU doesn't control the top speed. It can't monitor the
MPH you
> are going. The speedometer cable is purely mechanical and
runs from
> the transmission to the instrument cluster. Belive me! I
have
> replaced 2 speedo cables, and they aren't fun.
Isn't there a reed switch in the instrument cluster which tells
the ECU the speed like on the DSM cars?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 11:31:23 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Bay Area parts..
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Wanted:
Place in Bay Area to buy the 'proper' plugs (if dealer isnt an
option)
Thanks!
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 21:45:09 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
An add-on to Jacks listing :
Stock pump :
- - 190 ltr/hr flows
32 gal/hr @ 60psi (19 psi boost)
30 gal/hr @ 65psi (24 psi boost)
Walbro pump are also direct drop-ins :
- - 255ltr/hr normal pump flows
50 gal/hr @ 60psi (19 psi boost)
45 gal/hr @ 65psi (24 psi boost)
- - 255ltr/hr high pressure pump flows
52 gal/hr @ 60psi (19 psi boost)
50 gal/hr @ 65psi (24 psi boost)
As Jack stated the $115 Walbros are loud but in our cars this
only happens
when the pump relay is activated and the pump runs on 12 or more
Volts.
Please note the calculated value for a car running 20 psi of
boost with an
IDC of 80% for 550cc injectors results in a flow of 50 gal/hr.
This is just
the amount of fuel to produce 541 hp and a large amount of this
is then used
to cool the chamber and doesn't produce that much of power
(around 60-80hp).
> HKS 3000VR4 upgrade, about $400, 90 gal/h at ?45
psi; flows up to 160psi
> Supra TT pump, about $190, 63.4gal/h at 65psi
through the whole DSM fuel
> There are "Walbro" pumps, Paxtons, Weldons etc
if you want to adventure
into
> Stock VR4 pump did 26.4 gal/h at 65psi through the DSM fuel
system.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 13:14:29 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump Advice
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> An add-on to Jacks listing :
>
> Stock pump :
> - 190 ltr/hr flows
> 32 gal/hr @ 60psi (19 psi boost)
> 30 gal/hr @ 65psi (24 psi boost)
>
> Walbro pump are also direct drop-ins :
> - 255ltr/hr normal pump flows
> 50 gal/hr @ 60psi (19 psi boost)
> 45 gal/hr @ 65psi (24 psi boost)
>
> - 255ltr/hr high pressure pump flows
> 52 gal/hr @ 60psi (19 psi boost)
> 50 gal/hr @ 65psi (24 psi boost)
>
> As Jack stated the $115 Walbros are loud but in our cars
this only happens
> when the pump relay is activated and the pump runs on 12 or
more Volts.
>
> Please note the calculated value for a car running 20 psi of
boost with an
> IDC of 80% for 550cc injectors results in a flow of 50
gal/hr. This is
just
> the amount of fuel to produce 541 hp and a large amount of
this is then
used
> to cool the chamber and doesn't produce that much of power
(around
60-80hp).
- ---
Except for the money part..you make it sould SOOO easy.
Time to start padding expense checks *chuckle*
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 18:20:00 -0500
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
It has to be possible for the ECU to monitor the ECU. I was
playing with my
instrument gauge and pulled it out, it's all electronic on the
guage cluster
end.. so the speedometer you see if being told by something what
the current
speed is. It'd be my uneducated bet that something translates the
speedo
cable and feeds it to the guage cluster, which means it's
perfectly cable of
also reporting that speed back to the ECU. _However_, I have a
base model
1995 3000GT (V6 DOHC 222hp) and I've hit 140mph before with no
probs. I'm
stock except for an air filter.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:30:13 -0700
From: "Ian Calegory" <iancalegory@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Number of 3000GT's produced in '95
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I was wondering if someone might know how many 3000GT's
(especially the
VR-4's) were produced in 1995. Or, is there some way to
find this out?
Thanks,
Ian
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 00:36:15 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Need Passenger's side low beam
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Hi, I have a 1992 Stealth RT/TT, direct import from north
America.
My passenger's side low beam decided not to work in Y2K (could it
be THE
bug)
Anyway....it would be a piece of cake to fix in the USA, but
here...the car
is an exotic,
and they do NOT carry the assembly.....gggrrrr
It seems to be a Sylvania assembly, US spec, with the 3 aiming
"nipples",
completely sealed, so I cannot swap the bulbs, and got to
completely replace
it...
Anyone got one spare for sale, or better, a Hella
"improved" replacement one
?
Best
Henri
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Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:19:25 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
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> Isn't there a reed switch in the instrument cluster which
tells the ECU
the speed like on the DSM cars?
I doubt it since people have seen (indiacted) over 160 mph.....
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
www.linkline.com/personal/amahoser
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Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:30:29 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump Advice
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Another one to add...
Denso fuel pump .... supposedly flows 87 GPH (I think)
and is a direct bolt in
(about a hundred bucks cheaper than the HKS pump)
Jose Soriano
amahoser@Linkline.com
www.linkline.com/personal/amahoser
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Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 17:09:18 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
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Howdy...
Are we talking about a NA? Or a TT?
If it's a TT, you should have no trouble breaking 140 mph without
removing
the speed limiter.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: k4ne [mailto:k4ne@gateway.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 6:23 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that stops my 3000gt
at 120 mph
and won't allow it to go faster even though it has plenty of
pedal left.
94' red 3000gt custom
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Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 17:18:39 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Twin turbo no faster than geo
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Tim...
Check that y-pipe o-ring again. Sounds to me like you have a
leak.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 11:12 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Twin turbo no faster than geo
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Help! I have a '91 Twin Turbo Stealth with 100K miles on it and
in very good
condition. Power was great until the intake hose popped off while
hammering
it one night. It was replaced (because the gasket was damaged)
and now the
car is so slow I rather be driving a Geo! The boost will not go
higher than
50% of what it used to, and the Dealer has run EXTENSIVE tests,
and says
everything is fine....!!?? This car has been babied all its life
and regular
maintenance. It has not had a tune-up in a while, but then why
the loss of
power after the intake popping off the manifold? As a matter of
fact 2 more
shops have looked at it, and have no idea what it is. Anyone got
an idea?
This car should 'take-off' if it really had 300hp... right??
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Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 18:08:32 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strange noise coming from my
car....update...NOW WHAT!!
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> The noise is SIMILAR to that of a bearing going bad
(woo-woo-woo sound),
> but I've checked the wheel bearings, a transmission shop
checked the
> bearings, and a dealership checked them before going out of
warranty. I
> noticed the noise about a year ago, and it hasn't gotten a
lot worse,
> but then again the car only gets driven about 7000 miles a
year anyway.
if two noises are interfering, you will get a woo-woo effect due
to a
phenomenon called wave interference
when the high points of the sound waves collide, they double the
intensity,
when a high and a low point collide, they cancel each other.
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End of team3s V1 #7
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