team3s
Tuesday, January 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number 009
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 17:43:27 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I got the recepie for the tire goo. Here it is:
2 gallons of diesel fuel
1 gallon of lacquer thinner
1/2 gallon of acetone
1 quart of transmission fluid
1 quart of brake fluid
This will make a 4 gallon batch. You should brush it on, and then
check
it in about 15 minutes. you should be able to feel the tires
getting
soft. You don't want to leave it on very long, maybe 20-30
minutes. He
leaves the stuff on overnight for dirt track racing.
Matt
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:05:16 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Theres also a product called "Hot Lap".
Used heavily in dirt track, and AutoX racing.
Not the best link..but I found it on the WWW in "10 links or
less" here:
http://www.guyonracing.com/new.html
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker [mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 2:43 PM
To: mattrt@hotmail.com
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I got the recepie for the tire goo. Here it is:
2 gallons of diesel fuel
1 gallon of lacquer thinner
1/2 gallon of acetone
1 quart of transmission fluid
1 quart of brake fluid
This will make a 4 gallon batch. You should brush it on, and then
check
it in about 15 minutes. you should be able to feel the tires
getting
soft. You don't want to leave it on very long, maybe 20-30
minutes. He
leaves the stuff on overnight for dirt track racing.
Matt
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 01:30:02 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Need to buy Hella "improved" high/low
beam headlights
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Oki, seems that the BEST way to solve my problem is to get Hella
replacements
for my 1992 RT/TT...
Anyone knows where I can buy these over the net, or anyone have
some for
sale ?
Best
Henri
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:54:53 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Traction aiding tire goo.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
>I got the recepie for the tire goo. Here it is:
>
>2 gallons of diesel fuel
>1 gallon of lacquer thinner
>1/2 gallon of acetone
>1 quart of transmission fluid
>1 quart of brake fluid
- ---------snip---------
I know nothing about this stuff, or whether it works or not--
I've
only used "doing a quick burn" to heat up and soften
the tires. But
just logic tells me that a strong WARNING should go along with
it!
Since lacquer thinner IS often a form of acetone, both are
incredibly volatile, and all the fluids listed are pretty
aggressive, I'd be VERY careful how and where I applied it.
I'll assume that it's meant for applying to tires that are OFF
the
car... If they were ON the car when the goo was applied,
there'd be
a patch touching the road that never got softened. That's a
good
way to rip a tire apart once it's moving. Also, you don't
want
acetone or anything like it anywhere NEAR your finish, brake
lines,
brakes or anything made of rubber or plastic. The only
plastics
that acetone DOESN'T dissolve are the nylons and teflons and
polycarbonates. Most of the plastics on cars are
acrylonitriles
(rubberized plastic), and the thinner that's used to remove or
dissolve it is acetone.
USE breathing equipment it if you're anywhere near this
stuff! One
lungfull of acetone vapors will take out your lungs faster than a
lifetime of smoking. Women use a dab of acetone to remove
their
nail polish and it stinks up an entire room, so you can imagine
how
a gallon and a half of it smells.
This concoction was probably invented by a tire jockey that drove
through the various fluid spills down at the old filling station
and
took a 1/2 second off his track time that day. And it makes
sense
that it probably *could* work. But I'd go with the
commercial
products before I'd consider using it. Pretty dangerous
brew,
IMO...
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:45:19 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
All,
I have completed reassembly of my engine after the 60K
tune-up. The car
will not start. There is no check engine light, but the car
probably has to
run for a while before an error code is set. It has fuel in
the rail and it
has spark. I have checked all of the connectors on the
intake end of the
motor. These include the AF sensor, TDC sensor, rear bank
fuel injectors,
ISC motor, and the crank angle sensor. They are all
connected properly. I
checked the harness at the TDC sensor and at injector number
3. All
measurements were correct per the tests in the manual. The
only test result
that did not agree with the manual was the impedance test across
the two
pins of the injectors on the device side of the connector.
They are
supposed to have between 13 and 16 ohms resistance and all 3 of
mine on the
front bank are reading 0 resistance.
The motor cranks fine. Even though I have not checked the
compression after
my timing belt skipped, there is no backfiring though the intake
or exhaust
so I think that the valves and cam timing are OK. Sometimes
the motor seems
to almost fire, but never even comes close to starting. I
am working my way
though the troubleshooting chart, but it is very time-consuming
to perform
all of the tests without the MUT and without the assistance of
another
person.
Any suggestions??
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T (still R.I.P.)
Vancouver, BC
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:19:52 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I've seen this more than a few times. Sometimes plugs can
get fuel fouled
during these first-time startup procedures. If you have not
already done so
since the first few failed starts, try throwing in a properly
gapped new set
(the cheaper copper core will do for now) and try again.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> All,
>
> I have completed reassembly of my engine after the 60K
tune-up. The car
> will not start. There is no check engine light, but
the car
> probably has to
> run for a while before an error code is set. It has
fuel in the
> rail and it
> has spark. I have checked all of the connectors on the
intake end of the
> motor. These include the AF sensor, TDC sensor, rear
bank fuel injectors,
> ISC motor, and the crank angle sensor. They are all
connected
> properly. I
> checked the harness at the TDC sensor and at injector number
3. All
> measurements were correct per the tests in the manual.
The only
> test result
> that did not agree with the manual was the impedance test
across the two
> pins of the injectors on the device side of the
connector. They are
> supposed to have between 13 and 16 ohms resistance and all 3
of
> mine on the
> front bank are reading 0 resistance.
>
> The motor cranks fine. Even though I have not checked
the
> compression after
> my timing belt skipped, there is no backfiring though the
intake
> or exhaust
> so I think that the valves and cam timing are OK.
Sometimes the
> motor seems
> to almost fire, but never even comes close to
starting. I am
> working my way
> though the troubleshooting chart, but it is very
time-consuming to perform
> all of the tests without the MUT and without the assistance
of another
> person.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Regards,
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T (still R.I.P.)
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
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address:
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***
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:49:11 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: One Piece Steal Driveshafts
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Before I go and have one made... what are people currently paying
for one
piece steal driveshafts for VR-4s?
I'm guessing $240 tops.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 21:08:09 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: ADMIN: List explosion
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Were not sure why at this time, but Majodomo decided to hit the
bottle on me
over here in the bunker.
Its behaviour, although not expected, has been corrected by
removing the
pretty blue cable from the back of the box, and resetting the
mail queue.
You will not see this happen again.
Sincere apologies, and mail those estimates for new 'Del' keys to
gemohler@pacbell.net.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:06:39 -0000
From: "Simon Jones" <Team3S@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Hi,
If you're talking about a TT then the speed sensor is
electronic. The
sensor is mounted on the gearbox. The signal goes to three
places, the ECU,
the Cruise Controller and also to the instrument cluster
(speedometer).
Where does your car come from? If it was imported from
Japan, the chances
are that its got the Japanese restriction on it, which is around
110 MPH. I
live in the U.K. and had this problem, along with the fact that
the
speedometer is in KPH and the cruise control wouldn't work above
70 MPH.
After investigating various options, I opted for the DIY approach
which
involved designing a little black box which divided the frequency
of the
signal from the speed sensor by 1.6 (KPH to MPH ratio) and
inserted this
between the sensor output and all three of the
destinations. This changed
the speed limiter up to around 180 MPH, converted the speedo into
MPH
without changing the scale and made the cruise control work above
70 MPH.
If you want any other info. let me know privately.
Happy New Year,
Simon Jones
'94 GTO
simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
http://www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
> -----Original Message-----
> From: k4ne [mailto:k4ne@gateway.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 6:23 PM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
>
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that stops my
3000gt at 120 mph
> and won't allow it to go faster even though it has plenty of
pedal left.
>
> 94' red 3000gt custom
>
>
>
>
>
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address:
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>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 09:31:36 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
You sound like you know what you are doing, but is it
possible that
there is a pinched wire to the rear injectors? I'll check
tonight,
but I do remember my injectors reading around 13 Ohms or
something
like that.
If you pull one of the spark plugs from those 3 injectors,
can you
see fuel on it? That would tell you if the injectors are
really firing.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
Dave Holden wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> All,
>
> I have completed reassembly of my engine after the 60K
tune-up. The car
> will not start. There is no check engine light, but
the car probably has to
> run for a while before an error code is set. It has
fuel in the rail and it
> has spark. I have checked all of the connectors on the
intake end of the
> motor. These include the AF sensor, TDC sensor, rear
bank fuel injectors,
> ISC motor, and the crank angle sensor. They are all
connected properly. I
> checked the harness at the TDC sensor and at injector number
3. All
> measurements were correct per the tests in the manual.
The only test result
> that did not agree with the manual was the impedance test
across the two
> pins of the injectors on the device side of the
connector. They are
> supposed to have between 13 and 16 ohms resistance and all 3
of mine on the
> front bank are reading 0 resistance.
>
> The motor cranks fine. Even though I have not checked
the compression after
> my timing belt skipped, there is no backfiring though the
intake or exhaust
> so I think that the valves and cam timing are OK.
Sometimes the motor seems
> to almost fire, but never even comes close to
starting. I am working my way
> though the troubleshooting chart, but it is very
time-consuming to perform
> all of the tests without the MUT and without the assistance
of another
> person.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Regards,
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T (still R.I.P.)
> Vancouver, BC
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
> team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
> http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #9
*******************