team3s
Tuesday, January 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number 010
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:52:11 CST
From: "Roger Wardrop" <rogerwardrop@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the passenger side
outlets are
mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and seeing exhaust
from only the
driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting off the
small muffler
from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help split
the exhaust
better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly appreciate
it.
Thanks,
Roger Wardrop
1995 3000GT VR-4
1992 Galant VR-4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 07:42:25 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
No..its really more of a flow issue.
The path to the pass. side just isnt "easy" like the
drivers.
Mostly cosmetic..
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 10:14:25 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
>I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the passenger
side outlets are
>mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and seeing
exhaust from only the
>driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting off
the small muffler
>from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help
split the exhaust
>better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly
appreciate it.
While I was snooping through a parts book the other day, I
spotted a
Y-connection that goes from a 3 in. pipe to two 2-1/2 in. pipes.
It was
like $35 or so at the local NAPA store. You could
have your muffler shop
weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat, routing one
side to
the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then cut
off and
plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would exhaust
equally on
both sides.
I am thinking of doing the same thing, except I would discard the
stock
mufflers and run pipes to two stubby straight-through
mufflers. That way,
I could save the stock system for future use. I am also
considering
replacing the entire furshlugginer system with a single
pipe/muffler from
the downpipe back. I'll decide before Spring gets here.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:35:05 -0800
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
What about the Bozz Dual Cannon muffler system? It's only
for the VR-4, and
it's supposed to go from the Turbo's back thus creating a true
dual exhaust.
Is this system any good?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 10:36:13 -0600
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Question about the stock exhaust. My switch for the
tour/sport mode does
not work anymore. Is there an easy way get the stock system
to work(stuck
on sport mode), or is going w/ an aftermarket exhaust a better
choice. If I
go to an aftermarket system, and I going to get any trouble w/
the
sport/tour lights flashing or anything like that?
Also I can not recall from previous posts if I will see any
trouble codes if
the main cat is removed? Don't really need it or the
precats as we do not
have inspections in Kansas.
TIA
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Manager
Sko Automotive
913-780-3700
Business Hours: Mon-Tue-Thu=8:30-8:00
Wed-Fri-Sat=8:30-6:00
Sun-Closed
www.steveoliverdodge.com
www.sunflowerdodge.com
www.sunflowermazda.com
www.sunflowerhyundai.com
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Roger Wardrop <rogerwardrop@hotmail.com>;
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> >
> >I have a stock exhaust, and as you all know the
passenger side outlets
are
> >mostly cosmetic. I am annoyed by hearing and
seeing exhaust from only
the
> >driver's side outlets. I was wondering if cutting
off the small muffler
> >from passenger side, and replacing with pipe, would help
split the
exhaust
> >better. If anyone has any advice, I'd greatly
appreciate it.
>
> While I was snooping through a parts book the other day, I
spotted a
> Y-connection that goes from a 3 in. pipe to two 2-1/2 in.
pipes. It was
> like $35 or so at the local NAPA store. You
could have your muffler shop
> weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat,
routing one side to
> the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then
cut off and
> plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would
exhaust equally
on
> both sides.
>
> I am thinking of doing the same thing, except I would
discard the stock
> mufflers and run pipes to two stubby straight-through
mufflers. That way,
> I could save the stock system for future use. I am also
considering
> replacing the entire furshlugginer system with a single
pipe/muffler from
> the downpipe back. I'll decide before Spring gets here.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
> team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
> http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:43:00 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Exhaust Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
> weld that to the 3-in. pipe coming back from the cat,
routing one side to
> the stock muffler and the other to the passenger side. Then
cut off and
> plug all the other snakes-nest piping. Your system would
exhaust equally on
> both sides.
No, because you have two different muffling systems on both side.
The pass side is only a small muffler that tones the sound and it
will become the lesser restriction.
It is much, much easier getting the Borla system as it comes with
the appropriate hangers, stainless steel quality and good
mufflers. For less than $490 I doubt one can get a good system
for less in the same quality. Of course if one welds the stuff by
itselfs it would be ok. What you need is a straight 3" pipe
from the cat or testpipe. An Y after the diff and two mufflers.
They must be small as the pass sides space is limited. Then get
the right tips you want and some bent pipings that goes into the
mufflers. Now the stuff needs hangers and clamps and also get the
stuff in T304 stainless steel quality and the bends mandrel bent.
Count this together with one doing the work and you're at the
Borla price.
A single system is for sure easier and even lighter. Use a large
but light muffler and you'll get a silent but powerful exhaust.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:02:55 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off after
a little
while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:12:11 -0800
From: Todd Leveck <todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
check your mas air flow sensor & connector... and air filter.
todd
93 vr4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:03 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off after
a little
while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 13:32:41 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
It could also be the Oxygen sensor.
Todd Leveck wrote:
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> check your mas air flow sensor & connector... and air
filter.
>
> todd
> 93 vr4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim DeKeyser [mailto:tdekeyser@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:03 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
>
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off
after a little
> while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
address:
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***
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
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***
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 13:47:49 EST
From: XCricKX@AOL.COM
Subject: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Anyone here know's if its normal in other cars to get 4500rpm @
80mph? if so is there anyway to adjust it or something to
bring down the rpm low at 80mph?
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 07:57:15 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No start condition
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Any fuses blown? I had this problem after installing my
FIPK a few
years ago... I didn't unplug the battery during installation to
reset
the ECU, and when the MAF reported too much air, a fuse was
blown. It
would crank over but not fire, just as you're experiencing.
Unplugging
the MAF, replacing the fuse, and reattaching the MAF harness (and
$200
to the Dodge dealer for figuring it out!) did the trick. In
your case
it probably has nothing to do with the MAF, but perhaps some fuse
took a
hit?
Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:02:27 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check engine light
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
The check engine light is activated when the ECU receives
repeated values
beyond a set range from any of the following devices:
ECU
Oxygen sensor
Air flow sensor
Intake air temp. sensor
Throttle position sensor
Coolant temp. sensor
Crank angle sensor
TDC sensor
Barometric pressure sensor
Detonation sensor
Ignition timing adjustment signal
Injector
Ignition coil, power transistor unit
The light comes on when the ECU detects invalid signals coming
from any of
these devices for more than a specified amount of time or
repeated
occurrences. Once the values return to normal, the light
will go off. In
order to find out which device is the culprit, you need an error
scan tool
or a service manual and a multi-meter and lots of patience.
You can put a
voltmeter across pins 7 and 8 (numbered starting at the top left
of the row
with two blank pins on it) of the MPI self-diagnosis connector
(16-pin
connector located just above the dead pedal) and record the
output patterns.
These patterns consist of one or more long highs, followed by one
or more
short highs (sort of like morse code). If you can determine
the error code,
then I would be happy to look it up for you and tell you which
component to
check.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver, BC
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Tim DeKeyser
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:03 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Check engine light
Why is my 'Check Engine' light coming on and then going off after
a little
while?? Started around 100k miles.... '91 TT stealth.
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 13:17:18 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4500 rpm @80mph?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>Anyone here know's if its normal in other cars to get 4500rpm
@ 80mph? if
so is there anyway to adjust it or something to bring down the
rpm low at
80mph?
Shift up, quick! You are (a) in a lower gear or (b) your
clutch is
slipping badly.
Did you know you have a six-speed? Sounds like you are
running around in
4th gear.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #10
********************