team3s
Friday, January 14
2000 Volume 01
: Number
025
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Jan 2000 18:32:57 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: $350 TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS??
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Thats about right! I just had
my 60k tune-up today. It cost me $900 total
not including the
plugs. He said it normally runs about $400 to do the
plugs. I had
the pre-tensioner, timing belt, water pump, all fluids, drive
belts, parking
brake adjusted, and oil pan gasket changed. The plugs are
about $10
each=$60+ wires at $65.00 + filter (their price) $35.00 listed at
4 hours
labor at $60 /hour =$400 give or take for parts. It took me 2 hours
to
do it myself for the first time. Its not that hard if you ask around
for
detailed instructions like these:
Check out these instructions given
from Brian at GT Pro. I used them last
week, went very well and I can
not think of anything I would add.
START BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
The easiest
way to do it will be to first remove the rear I/C pipe
completely to get more
room. Now remove the EGR pipe to manifold connection
where it meets the
manifold, but only remove one bolt completely and make
the other one really
loose. What this will do is release the stainless
gasket that is in there and
this way you can "swing the gasket around and
not have it drop into the
"black void", never to be found again. Now remove
the bolt
attatching the rear manifold with the engine pick-up bracket
located near the
drivers side, and also the same bracket on the passenger
side. Loosen, but do
NOT remove the Y-pipe, just loosen it up and remove
ONLY the two rubber I/C
pipes connected to it, them swing the Y-pipe upwards
carefully to make room
to move the manifold. Now remove the two 10mm bolts
that hold the throttle
cable and move it to the side. Remove the two 10mm
bolts that hold the three
connector plugs to the manifold that sit next to
the Y-pipe. Remove the two
10mm bolts holding the front injector loom to the
manifold. NOW you can
remove the main manifold bolts to remove the manifold.
You can now lift the
manifold up. Use a prop to hold the manifold up and
tilted to the passenges
side, and this will give you just enough room to get
the plugs out and
changed. I would reccomened a new gasket for the intake
manifold at this
time. Now just reverse the steps. One trick though, put the
manifold down on
the lower manifold, but don't bolt it down yet, put in the
EGR pipe FIRST,
the reason being is that with the manifold "loose" you can
move it
a bit to line up the EGR holes, put one bolt in first with the
gasket tilted
up so you can hold it from falling, then once you have the
first bolt in a
few turns, then swing the gasket around and install the
other bolt. NOW do
the rest, and you'll be done!!
END BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
From: Tim
DeKeyser <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, January 13, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: $350 TO CHANGE SPARK
PLUGS??
>***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
>I have asked around all the shops, including the
dealer, and they all say
>that a tuneup for a '91 Dodge Stealth is nothing
but replacing the spark
>plugs and air filter. Nothing has to be done with
the timing or anything
>else. $350 minimum!!! Is this crazy or what???
What can I do if I dont have
>the knowledge/tools to do it
myself??
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>
>***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 11:00:50
+0100
From: "Robby SOL" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
> Who out there has an EGT sensor? Where did you get
it? And if I do start
> playing with an AFC for my car, how high can the
temps go before I'll
> ruin anything? This is a 1993 R/T NA.
You
can simply do ... nothing with the AFC when you don't use larger
injectors.
I have the Autometer EGT (still not installed) altough it only
shows up to 1600°F (871°C). IMHO, this is already high and I'd like to
keep it always below 850 or even 820°C. You may have a look into our archive
about this topic as there is much more in it !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 09:30:51
-0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
> > Who out there has an EGT sensor? Where did
you get it? And
> > if I do start playing with an AFC for my car, how
high can
> > the temps go before I'll ruin anything? This is a 1993 R/T
NA.
> You can simply do ... nothing with the AFC when you don't use
> larger injectors.
He wants to lean the car out... He has a
non-turbo, therefore the stock sized injectors will work fine.
> I
have the Autometer EGT (still not installed) altough it
> only shows up
to 1600°F (871°C). IMHO, this is already high
> and I'd like to
keep it always below 850 or even 820°C. You
> may have a look into
our archive about this topic as there is
> much more in it
!
You'll probably never see temps this high on a non-turbo. The
best thing to do initially is to get an A/F ratio meter to see what the car's
behavior is at wide-open throttle. If it still targets around .5V signal,
then there isn't much you can do to lean out the mixture anyway.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:15:57
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Sorry for the confusion, I did not notice that it is an
NA.
Anyways, the ECU will probably adapt very soo, especially in closed
loop. We made this experience on my Z28 as we adjusted the fuel pressure and the
ECU adjusted the injector rate ofer a specific time. EGTs for an NA cars often
are in the 720-780 range and unless the timing will be changed I doubt there
will be a problem.... but I also don't see a gain :(
> He wants to
lean the car out... He has a non-turbo, therefore the stock sized
injectors will work fine.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:25:40
-0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Ha! My TT idles at
780F....
Trevor
"R.G." wrote:
> ***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Sorry for the
confusion, I did not notice that it is an NA.
>
> Anyways, the ECU
will probably adapt very soo, especially in closed loop. We made this experience
on my Z28 as we adjusted the fuel pressure and the ECU adjusted the injector
rate ofer a specific time. EGTs for an NA cars often are in the 720-780 range
and unless the timing will be changed I doubt there will be a problem.... but I
also don't see a gain :(
>
> > He wants to lean the car
out... He has a non-turbo, therefore the stock sized injectors will work
fine.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> *** Please make
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Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 10:32:39
-0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT question.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Ha! My TT idles at 780F....
Trevor
-
---
You;re kidding right..idles at 780 degrees?
Just makin sure I
read right.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:25:28
+0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about ABS
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
As I was in the process of nearly rear-ending
my van into some idiot who
decided to slam on the brakes from 90 mph to take
an exit at the last
minute on the Autobahn this morning, I began seriously
questioning the
activation of ABS.
Why is ABS enabled when braking in
a straight line?
Now, I realize that most cars (perhaps my van included)
do not have a
steering angle sensor, but unless I'm mistaken our cars
do. And it
seems to me that if that sensor shows that the wheel is
straight, it
makes little sense to activate ABS under full braking.
My
reasoning is based on previous discussions we've had in this forum
that
indicated that ABS does in fact INCREASE braking distance over
non-ABS
braking, even (especially?) when the wheels are locked up and
skidding.
Check the archives for details, but the reason was that the
coefficient of
static friction is essentially maintained even when the
wheels are sliding,
since pieces of the tire tear away in the process.
And in the snow, ABS
prevents buildup in front of the tire. Etc. I
apologize in
advance if I misunderstood that discussion and am mistaken,
and I hope
someone will set me straight.
There is little question that ABS is
extremely valuable when you're
trying to steer, but if you're climbing up
someone's tail pipe, or
entering a turn on the race course in a straight,
controlled fashion
(brake BEFORE turning!), I'd rather it did not
intervene.
I think this would be a fairly easy modification; the ABS
system can be
disabled by simply pulling the fuse, so I'm sure a switch could
be
installed that monitors the steering angle sensor and disables ABS
if
the wheel is straight. If the car starts to spin, the driver
would
compensate by turning in the direction of the skid, the sensor
would
show that the wheel is no longer straight and ABS would be activated
as
before.
Question is, does this make sense? The answer must be
no, since none of
the auto manufacturers are doing this. So please
enlighten me! Thank
you. :-)
- --
Jim Matthews
3SI #30
Wiesbaden, Germany
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 11:52:34
-0800
From: Dan Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about ABS -Reply
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
** High Priority **
ABS under
straight line braking...Well, to the best of my knowledge,
ABS is activated
under straight line braking primarily because at the
limit of wheel lock,
different conditions can arise leading to uneven
lock, causing the vehicle to
turn. This may be due to uneven brake
wear, proprortioning (if so equipped),
uneven vehicle weight,
etc...Remember, the only point ABS satisifies is
negating said wheel
lock and provide traction while stopping...Whether in a
straight
line, or in a curve.
As far as what manufacturers deem as
sensible...Well, I'm sure we all
know that a very small percentage of drivers
would know the attributes
of their vehicle at limit of adhesion. While it has
been shown that
ABS increases braking distances in a straight line, the
margins are
negligible for the ordinary driver. I remember seeing a study in
'95
with Emerson Fittipaldi behind the wheel of a 95 Eagle Talon
Tsi
AWD...The goal was to see how a skilled, experienced driver would
fare
against the advent of braking technology. If I remember
correctly, 60mph-0mph
testing in a straight line yeilded a 12 ft
difference in braking without
ABS...But this was Fittipaldi, not your
next door neighbor. Threshold braking
in a vehicle requires extensive
knowledge of where that envelope lies, ands
lets face it, most people
don't put themselves in the postion to know,
(thankfully!). I think
this is clearly a case of the manufacturers satisfying
a need for the
many, as opposed to the wants of a
few.
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:01:13
EST
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Question...please advise
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Being new to the list and the 3000GTs I wanted to
post an e-mail to introduce
myself and hopefully get some information from
the gurus here. I recently
purchased a showroom condition '92 3000GT
VR4 (Silver, loaded, black
interior) for $8400. Problem in (always a
catch) is that the transmission is
bad. When Pep Boys replaced the
clutch for the previous owner (please flame
him, not me...I'd never take a
car there) they neglected to refill the
transmission. So as a result,
I have dropped the transmission and torn it
apart. I've found a
supplier for the bearings and seals (which I definitely
need), but am still
looking for the seal that goes on the outside of the 5th
gear housing and
the oil director that fits underneath the main shaft bearing
on the inside
of the bell housing. I have also found a cheap 6-speed
transmission
that I'm thinking about picking up. My questions are as follows:
1)
Does anyone know how to check a viscous on these cars to determine the
condition of the unit?
2) What would I have to change in order
to use the 6-speed in the car since
it originally came with a 5-speed?
(Cables? Transfer Case? Linkages? Etc.?)
3) Does anyone know where i may
be able to find the last minor parts for the
transmission I currently have
in order to put it back together? (oil
director, seal on outside of
casing)
I appreciate any reply on this!
Since I work at a Mitsu
dealership in the Club/Internet/Tuner Sales dept.
(parts), I would like to
offer the same discounts to everyone here on the
list as well. (25% off of
Mitsubishi list..not inflated dealer pricing).
This is basically good
for any OEM parts with the exception of accesories
(floormats, mudguards,
roof racks, power winches, etc...(joking on the last
couple!!!)). I am
the only person in this dept. that handles Mitsubishi's
though, so please be
patient when trying to reach me. The phone # is (610)
272-8504 and you
now also have my work e-mail address. Thanks again for any
help in
advance, and I look forward to adding any knowledge that I might
aquire on
these cars in the future!
Josh
Conicelli Mitsubishi
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#25
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