team3s
Sunday, January 2
2000
Volume 01 : Number 006
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 23:22:40 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Belt tension set-up
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In a message dated 1/1/00 8:19:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca
writes:
<< Huh??? As long as the marks line up you are timed
right. I think I know
what you are getting at, but it is not possible for the crank to
be 180
degrees out. Lining up the marks ensures correct piston
position. The
crank does not care if it is on a compression or an exhaust
stroke.
>>
You are correct. However, it is not piston position that I
am concerned
about but ignition and injector timing. The position of the
crankshaft
determines whether the proper plug and injector fires on the
proper strokes.
The crankshaft position on our cars is determined by the crank
angle and TDC
sensor. I don't know whether the angle sensor is 360 degree
sensitive, but
if it is, then your crank can be 180 degrees out.
The crank angle and TDC sensors also determine
injector pulse by sending
signals to the MPI computer and also calculates the amount of
intake air.
Therefore, if the sensor is 360 degree sensitive, the injectors
can also fire
on the wrong stroke. Since adjusting the belt is a time
consuming process, I
personally would not take the chance and would ensure that my
crank is in
time with the cams.
Joe 91TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 23:29:39 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Belt tension set-up
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I might also add that the replacement of the crank angle
sensor/TDC sensor
requires that the No. 1 cylinder be placed on the compression
stroke, which
suggests that the sensor is 360 degree sensitive.
Joe 91TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 00:40:30 -0500
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Strange noise coming from my car....update...NOW
WHAT!!
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Last week I posted the following (excerpt):
The noise is SIMILAR to that of a bearing going bad (woo-woo-woo
sound),
but I've checked the wheel bearings, a transmission shop checked
the
bearings, and a dealership checked them before going out of
warranty. I
noticed the noise about a year ago, and it hasn't gotten a lot
worse,
but then again the car only gets driven about 7000 miles a year
anyway.
Here's the update for those that were interested as well as a new
question:
After doing several experiments with tire rotation and varying
the tire
pressures radically (all to no avail), I took the car out on a
freeway
that I knew had several different types of pavement on it
(concrete, new
asphalt, old asphalt, etc). I locked the speed at 47 MPH using
the
cruise control, and was able to postively identify the noise as
tire
noise. On the concrete or old asphalt the noise is barely
detectable,
but on the new asphalt (stickier??) the noise was VERY
noticeable.
The new question is "why the woo-woo-woo sound?". When
I come to think
of it in retrospect, the noise was first noticed right after I
replaced
2 of my old Pirelli P7000 Super Sports with a new pair. I don't
know a
lot about tires, but I've heard of a defect called ply
separation. Could
my newer tires be suffering from this? Has anyone had this
problem or
any tire problems with the types of symptoms I'm describing?
Thanks, Bill Wagner
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 07:12:07 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Twin turbo no faster than geo
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Help! I have a 91 Twin Turbo Stealth with 100K miles on it
and in very good
condition. Power was great until the intake hose popped off while
hammering
it one night. It was replaced (because the gasket was damaged)
and now the
car is so slow I rather be driving a Geo! The boost will not go
higher than
50% of what it used to, and the Dealer has run EXTENSIVE tests,
and says
everything is fine....!!?? This car has been babied all its life
and regular
maintenance. It has not had a tune-up in a while, but then why
the loss of
power after the intake popping off the manifold? As a matter of
fact 2 more
shops have looked at it, and have no idea what it is. Anyone got
an idea?
This car should 'take-off' if it really had 300hp... right??
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 08:15:17 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
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k4ne <k4ne@gateway.net>
wrote:
>
> > How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that stops
my 3000gt at 120 mph
> > and won't allow it to go faster even though it has
plenty of pedal left.
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> [ ... ] not to sound like your mother (coz im guilty too)
but isn't 120 fast
> enough?
Depends where he lives (I couldn't tell from his Email)!
:-) A few of
us legally exceed that in our daily commutes...
> Lastly, you may be requiring a complete ECU upgrade from a
company like
> G-Force etc. But the costs involved in such an upgrade
to only remove the
> Attrition-Limiter (tm) may be limiting in itself.
My understanding (at least on the turbos, I assume it's the same
on the
N/A cars) is that the speed limiter actually does not have a set
speed
at which it steps in, rather it monitors acceleration, TPS and
probably
a few other variables and, when the car is no longer accelerating
acceptably fast for the conditions, it limits speed (I think this
is
what Geoff means by "attrition-limiter"). So, I
see two options: 1)
upgrade the ECU to alter/remove this limiter, or 2) increase
engine
performance so that the car accelerates faster than the threshold
at
120mph! :-)
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 12:54:49 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
This is a topic a lot people have an opinion. Fact is that some
think that
there is a limiter and some run their cars up to 170 and more mph
(me as an
example). The ECU is not able to measure speed as the motion
sensor is not
that fast and therefore there must be anything else that is
responsible for
any limit. I'd say it's drag and power because the stock ponies
do not help
to push the car far behind 120mph or 155mph.
G-Force says that they remove the governer although my comparison
only
showed a locked and changed fuel map and two ignition maps.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 13:05:26 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Twin turbo no faster than geo
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Tim, popping off the y-pipe normally happens only if there is
more than
14-15psi applied. If the pipes gasket was damaged, I'd say that
there isn't
one anymore now. This because Mitsu is not selling the gasket
alone as you
have to get the whole y-pipe (stupid) or you gonna make your own
one. In my
point of view there is a big leak in the intake. You can make the
easy test
: Remove the hose that is running off the y-pipe ellbow and cap
the now open
nibble. Then run the car but be careful as in this condition, the
car is
able to make 20 psi and more. Immediatly lift your foot wehn
boost exceeds
too much. If this happens, the engine and intake parts are ok and
the
problem is the stock boost solenoid that is probably stuck in the
closed
position (6 psi max boost then)
If you cannot boost up with the disconnected hose you must check
all IC
hoses for cracks and also the bypass valve that is maybe leaking
heavily. If
there is no problem with that then you have an engine or turbo
problem. For
the first a compression test must be done as a popping off y-pipe
causes a
bang in the engine and may blow a ring or two. Not painting black
but I'd do
a compression test anyways with 100k miles !
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 09:10:52 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing top speed limiter chip
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> > > How do i remove the chip or whatever it is that
stops my 3000gt at 120 mph
> > > and won't allow it to go faster even though it has
plenty of pedal left.
The ECU doesn't control the top speed. It can't monitor the MPH
you are
going. The speedometer cable is purely mechanical and runs from
the
transmission to the instrument cluster. Belive me! I have
replaced 2
speedo cables, and they aren't fun.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 11:48:41 -0500
From: Rick <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale-Y-pipe
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AlamoMotorsports Y-pipe for sale.
It is wrinkle black (powder coated) and replaces the plastic one
that our
cars come with from the factory. This is the one that holds
high boost.
First $120 takes it.
Also, have some Factory Chrysler/Dodge service manuals for
sale. 92
Stealth electrical only- $30, 93 Stealth both manuals- $50.
Also have Laser/Talon manuals too. 93 and 94 model years.
(have both)
All manuals are still wrapped in the plastic. Brand new.
All manuals are $50 for the set of two, except for the 92 Stealth
(I only
have the electrical one) which I would take $30 for.
First come first served only have two sets of each left.
rick@ceo-consulting.com
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 18:21:35 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Parts for sale-Y-pipe (Admin Message)
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Admin Message :
Please respond only privately (rick@ceo-consulting.com)
to such messages if
you have any questions.
Please mention this when you place an add.
Thanks
Roger for the Admins
> AlamoMotorsports Y-pipe for sale.
<snip>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 10:32:11 -0700
From: "Cory Eskelsen" <ceskelsen@email.msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
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Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should I
consider purchasing?
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 18:56:39 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
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> Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should I
consider purchasing?
Nice from Santa, hehe. The pump alone gives you nothing. The
Stage 2 Upgrade
is Pump, Injectors and Fuel Controller. Therefore, safe the money
for the
full upgrade.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 10:03:12 -0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
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Well..let the guy go in "pieces" of the upgrade.
Pump is a safe thing to do first.
Given that..what should he use?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Advice
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> > Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should
I consider
purchasing?
>
> Nice from Santa, hehe. The pump alone gives you nothing. The
Stage 2
Upgrade
> is Pump, Injectors and Fuel Controller. Therefore, safe the
money for the
> full upgrade.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
>
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:06:50 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump Advice
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The 2 best direct boltins:
HKS 3000VR4 upgrade, about $400, 90 gal/h at ?45 psi;
flows up to 160psi
took me to 10's through all-stock fuel system (except injectors).
Unquestioned
quality, most flow available in boltin, "transparent"
operation (can't tell
anything
different, just flows more if you need it).
Supra TT pump, about $190, 63.4gal/h at 65psi through
the whole DSM fuel
system
including filter, fuelrail Lowell Foo TESTED it on; flows well
past 110psi.
Cheap, from Toyotaparts.com
Whether the Supra pump is exactly same as HKS is in question,
supposedly the
HKS
is originally used on Mazda Cosmo.
There are "Walbro" pumps, Paxtons, Weldons etc if
you want to adventure into
the noisier/cheaper/claiming-to-be-better realm. Not for
me.
Stock VR4 pump did 26.4 gal/h at 65psi through the DSM fuel
system.
Jack Tertadian
Atomic Motorsports :) can get you that HKS if you
like!
Cory Eskelsen wrote:
> Santa left Christmas money. What fuel pump should I
consider purchasing?
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1 #6
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