--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #370
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Saturday, January 1 2000 Volume 01 :
Number
370
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 10:52:31 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: T-Belt tension without the tool
I was wondering if anyone has set
up their t-belt without using the special
tool that the manual calls
for. I know that the mechanic who did my last
t-belt does not have one
and he managed to get it set up OK. There must be
a way to pretension
the belt without using the special tool. When I did it,
I squeezed the
bottom of the pulley against the center bolt. That put
fairly good
tension on it. When I pulled the pin out of the auto-tensioner
it only
moved out a tiny bit.
I will get the motor re-timed today and I will see
if it has compression
(Please, please, please let it have compression. If it
does I swear I will
never speed again). I hope that I did not bend any
valves because the motor
was not running yet when the belt skipped and as
soon as I heard it skip I
stopped cranking the starter. It did skip
enough to allow interference
because it won't turn over using a breaker bar
on the crank pulley bolt. It
turns maybe 30 degrees in either direction
and then stops dead.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91
R/T
Vancouver, BC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:09:58 -0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Short Throw shifters.
Take the shifter out and cut an inch or
two out above the pivot point. Weld
it back together and you have a
short shifter :-) I used a chop saw to cut
the shifter and a stick
welder to weld it all back together. Shorter throws
now and looks a
little cooler.
Hope it helps,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
Free
automotive classifieds and more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com-
----------NEW (under construction)----------
If you love cars you have to
visit MOTORHEAD CAFE
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
Someone on the list that has actually done this may be
> able to provide
you with more detailed information. Good luck!
>
>
Greg
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:17:15 -0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: T-Belt tension without the tool
Sounds like a risky way to
set it up to me. When properly tensioned the pin
should go in and out
of the hole easily. I have heard of someone adjusting
the tension so
the pin slides in and out easily. I made the special tool
myself and
used a torque wrench like the manual mentions. I could remove
and
reinstall the retaining pin with no problems after setting
the
tensioner. I have been loaning out the tools I made to anyone who
needs
them. I made the spanner wrench for the crankshaft also. I will
be posting
the drawings of the tools to my site soon so anyone can make
them. If the
resources are not available to make them, any machine shop
could make one
for a few bucks. (took me 1 hour to machine)
Hope it
helps,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
Free automotive classifieds and
more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com-
----------NEW (under construction)----------
If you love cars you have to
visit MOTORHEAD CAFE
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dave Holden
> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1999 1:53 PM
>
To: 3000GT Mailing (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: T-Belt tension without the
tool
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone has set up their t-belt
without
> using the special
> tool that the manual calls for.
I know that the mechanic who
> did my last
> t-belt does not have
one and he managed to get it set up OK.
> There must be
> a way to
pretension the belt without using the special tool.
> When I did
it,
> I squeezed the bottom of the pulley against the center bolt.
That put
> fairly good tension on it. When I pulled the pin out of
the
> auto-tensioner
> it only moved out a tiny
bit.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 13:52:52 -0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Possible major oopsie (DISCOUNT
DISCONTINUED)
- --------
+> Ugh. Yeah probably bent
some.
+> "Cheapest" place for stock replacements (a crank,
valves, springs) for me
+> was Rockland Mitsubishi in Maryland, 25% off
(and "list" was less than my
+> local Mits dealer to start with
at Rockland!)...1-914-353-2100, say are on
+> Internet 3000GT Club and
understand they take off 25%.
fyi, I just called Rockland and they aren't
offering the discount
anymore.. :( The parts guy said they changed
owners and are now
Action Mitsubishi..
however, as Jack said, I did
find their list prices to be lower
anyway.. I was checking on a bra
for my 95 VR4 which locally
was $158 list and at Rockland/Action was $144
list.. plus, they
were willing to give me 15% off with a little
prodding..
fyi..
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87
Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:26:25 -0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: carparts.com - 1/3 off first order over $100!
no, I'm not pushing
the site.. just sharing info..
unfortunately this offer only exists
through 12/31, but if any of you
can take advantage, I'd check it out!
I just spent WAAAY too much
money, but I found too many deals I couldn't
pass up..
ie..
Borla catback: list $605.96 - 1/3 off =
$404!
NGK PFR6J11 : list $11.71 each - 1/3 off = $7.73
each
etc..
you need to go to this specific URL to take
advantage of this..
http://www.carparts.com/enews/index_33.aspDave
95
Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 16:38:23 -0600
From: wizards <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Team3S: Rev
Limiter
Greetings,
Does anyone know how a rev limiter functions on
a Turbo 3S? That is,
does it literally shut down the throttle
before damaging RPM can be
forced on the engine by using WOT? If so
what is the "need" for a
redline on the tach. ... just for
visual feedback? And as a related
question if an engine is pushed to
close to or perhaps slightly over
redline does it insure damage ..... or are
there safety factors built in
just like for every other engineered
system. Thanks in advance for
your help.
Greg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:43:40 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
T-Belt tension without the tool
I'm having my T-belt changed next weekend
by a private mechanic. Is
there any tool similar to the one described in the
manual? If not, can
the timing tensuioner be doen W/O the tool?
Thanks in
advance,
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:47:55 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rev Limiter
Greg...
I haven't seen a schematic to tell
you what it does electrically, but what
it "feels" like is that
it's cutting voltage to half the spark plugs. It's a
sensation of a bad
"miss" condition, but certainly not a "kill"
condition.
On the strip, if you shift when you hit it, it recovers instantly.
In my
case, I had it removed when G-force modified my ECU.
From all my
days (closing in on 30 years) drag racing, the
"conventional
wisdom" has been that the redline is indeed a visual
indicator of a point
beyond which you should not run continuously (some
owners manuals also have
that in print). I've run many cars past redline with
no damage. That doesn't
mean you should go out and run your cars without rev
limiters beyond redline
at each and every shift. Eventually you will break
something. With our cars
we have one MAJOR concern, the increased risk of
detonation. This is not
only a risk at redline (or above) but the risk
increases as you push the
engine.
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From: wizards [
mailto:wizards@mhtc.net]
Sent: Thursday,
December 30, 1999 2:38 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Rev Limiter
Greetings,
Does anyone know how a rev
limiter functions on a Turbo 3S? That is,
does it literally shut
down the throttle before damaging RPM can be
forced on the engine by using
WOT? If so what is the "need" for a
redline on the tach.
... just for visual feedback? And as a related
question if an
engine is pushed to close to or perhaps slightly over
redline does it insure
damage ..... or are there safety factors built in
just like for every other
engineered system. Thanks in advance for
your
help.
Greg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:10:56 -0500
From: "Pete Ryner" <
pryner@ij.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rev
Limiter
I don't know how it works, but I can attest that it does.
When I first got
my car I was passing another vehicle when the car suddenly
lost power. I
finally realized that I was at 85 and was still in
second! Without the
limiter I know I would have been out an
engine. It seems to cut out right
at redline for mine. Tachs are
great if you spend the time to watch them,
but as fast as this car
accelerates, by the time you look down, it may be
too late. I'm glad
its there!
Pete
'91 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of wizards
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1999 5:38 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Rev Limiter
Greetings,
Does anyone know how a rev limiter
functions on a Turbo 3S? That is,
does it literally shut down the
throttle before damaging RPM can be
forced on the engine by using WOT?
If so what is the "need" for a
redline on the tach. ... just
for visual feedback? And as a related
question if an engine is pushed
to close to or perhaps slightly over
redline does it insure damage ..... or
are there safety factors built in
just like for every other engineered
system. Thanks in advance for
your help.
Greg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:41:08 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Race dates
If anyone is interested, I have a list of
open-track/driving school events
across the country.
Just say the word,
and I'll send it to you as a Word document.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 16:48:40 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
T-Belt tension without the tool
You can get the tool from Miller tool [
1-800-801-5420 ] for twenty
bucks or so.
Jim
Berry
> I was wondering if anyone has set up their t-belt
without using the special
> tool that the manual calls for. I know
that the mechanic who did my last
> t-belt does not have one and he
managed to get it set up OK. There must be
> a way to pretension the
belt without using the special tool. When I did it,
> I squeezed the
bottom of the pulley against the center bolt. That put
> fairly good
tension on it. When I pulled the pin out of the auto-tensioner
> it
only moved out a tiny bit.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:01:33 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Race dates
And just what might that word be ???? Please --- or else [ two
words ] ---
money. I'd like a copy, please.
Jim
Berry [ looking forward to racing in 2000 -- I just need a
hitch
for towing some necessities --- Beer, chairs, spares etc.]
PS. I took
some photos of my GC camber plates to forward to you
but they didn't show the
detail properly so I'll have to try again.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Thursday, December 30, 1999 3:41 PM
Subject: Team3S: Race
dates
> If anyone is interested, I have a list of
open-track/driving school events
> across the country.
> Just say
the word, and I'll send it to you as a Word document.
>
> Rich/old
poop
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:05:14 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
T-Belt tension without the tool
Post Script to my email --- for those too
cheap to buy one I can provide
a description and dimensions. It's a very
simple device.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
>
> You
can get the tool from Miller tool [ 1-800-801-5420 ] for twenty
> bucks or
so.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
>
> > I was wondering if anyone has set up their t-belt without using
the special
> > tool that the manual calls for. I know that the
mechanic who did my last
> > t-belt does not have one and he managed to
get it set up OK. There must be
> > a way to pretension the belt
without using the special tool. When I did it,
> > I squeezed the
bottom of the pulley against the center bolt. That put
> > fairly
good tension on it. When I pulled the pin out of the
auto-tensioner
> > it only moved out a tiny bit.
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:15:54 -0600
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: EGT
- 1600F gauge sufficient?
Does anyone have experience with the Autometer
EGT gauges? Is the 1600F
scale sufficient, or do you regularly register
more than 1600F? I would
hate to install this gauge an later find out
that it is inadequate. I
currently have stock turbos/fuel and
occasionally run past 15 psi of boost.
It is probably running quite lean at
this point.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:16:50 -0600
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Autometer EGT probes
The Autometer EGT probes can be had with either a
weld-in fitting, or a
stainless steel strap mount.
Is the strap mount
any good? It seems easier to install.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:20:53 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: tire
treatment -- old post
FWIW
some time ago someone mentioned a
secret sauce to improve
tire traction, the Sept 99 issue of Circle Track has
a test of
a product used to improve traction. Hotlap is sold by
Pro-blend
Motorsport Products [ 1-800-331-9520 ]. Application is four
coats
with a 30 min dry between each application to be repeated for
three
days [ 12 coats total ]. The magazine tests show an
improvement of about .3
sec at Hickory Speedway [ 18 sec lap times ]
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:33:46 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Autometer EGT probes
The strap mounts work fine but are subject to
potentially earlier failure.
Eventually the steel band gets stress cracks
from vibration and heat (I
presume) and the probe will loosen or fall out if
not caught during
preventative maintenance.
The weld in bungs are the
way to go if possible, especially since there may
not be an ideal surface to
properly mount the band depending upon where you
plan to place the
pyrometer.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> The Autometer EGT probes can be had with either a
weld-in fitting, or a
> stainless steel strap mount.
>
> Is
the strap mount any good? It seems easier to install.
>
>
Thanks,
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:38:06 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
EGT - 1600F gauge sufficient?
No direct experience with that particular
gauge, but 1600 F is not adequate
IMO. You may not want to run that
high all the time but it is possible
under normal operating conditions to see
1750F or above. If the gauge is
pegged you won't know what is really
going on.
These are low end gauges in the grand scheme of things, and
although they
probably work fine, the addage "you get what you pay
for" applies. If you
are going to use EGT as a tuning tool I'd
recommend raising the budget a bit
if possible so you can get a reliable
quality gauge.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Autometer EGT
gauges? Is the 1600F
> scale sufficient, or do you regularly
register more than 1600F? I would
> hate to install this gauge an
later find out that it is inadequate. I
> currently have stock
turbos/fuel and occasionally run past 15 psi
> of boost.
> It is
probably running quite lean at this point.
>
> Thanks,
>
Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:20:28 -0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: carparts.com - 1/3 off first order over $100!
It was brought
to my attention that the prices don't appear to be
discounted, but you won't
see the discount on any individual price..
it's applied to your grand total
when you checkout..
hopefully some of you can still take advantage of
this! too bad they
don't list 15Gs and FMICs! hehe..
:)
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI
G60
+>
+> no, I'm not pushing the site.. just sharing
info..
+>
+> unfortunately this offer only exists through 12/31,
but if any of you
+> can take advantage, I'd check it out! I just
spent WAAAY too much
+> money, but I found too many deals I couldn't pass
up..
+>
+> ie..
+>
+> Borla catback: list
$605.96 - 1/3 off = $404!
+> NGK PFR6J11 : list $11.71
each - 1/3 off = $7.73 each
+>
+> etc..
+>
+> you need to go to this specific URL to take advantage of
this..
+>
+>
http://www.carparts.com/enews/index_33.asp-
--------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 20:49:20 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT - 1600F gauge sufficient?
This is a multi-part message in
MIME format.
- --------------B2856A9A337B8F84C87AE2D9
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Barry's
right about the range. I have an Autometer 2/16" Sport-Comp and
1600F
isn't quite enough. I barely peg out the gauge (It actually stops
at about
1640) after being in boost (15psi) for a full gear or two. I'm
sure if I did
a top speed run the thing would be maxed for a long
period. As far as quality
goes don't get duped into thinking that "it
costs more, it must be
better" mentality either. Look at all the
professionals (NHRA, Nascar).
They could buy any gauges they want and
they buy Autometer. Sorry but I'm not
going to spend $200 on a boost
gauge when I can get one that works great for
$45. I could care less if
there's a japanese tuners name on it. To the
best of my knowledge my
gauge works perfectly and is very
responsive.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.86@107.212.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech
These runs were
with $1250 in mods
92 GMC Typhoon
13.72@100.2 0-60 4.90 Gtech
-
--------------B2856A9A337B8F84C87AE2D9
Content-Type:
message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition:
inline
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <
386C1814.3B291957@kscable.com>
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 20:42:28 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla
4.7 [en] (Win98; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To:
beking@home.comSubject: Re: Team3S: EGT -
1600F gauge sufficient?
References: <
000401bf532f$afe5bb20$88c10118@home.com>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Barry's
right about the range. I have an Autometer 2/16" Sport-Comp and 1600F
isn't
quite enough. I barely peg out the gauge (It actually stops at about
1640) after being
in boost (15psi) for a full gear or two. I'm sure if I did
a top speed run the thing
would be maxed for a long period. As far as quality
goes don't get duped into thinking
that "it costs more, it must be
better" mentality either. Look at all the professionals
(NHRA, Nascar).
They could buy any gauges they want and they buy Autometer. Sorry but
I'm not
going to spend $200 on a boost gauge when I can get one that works great
for
$45. I could care less if there's a japanese tuners name on it. To
the best of my
knowledge my gauge works perfectly and is very
responsive.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.86@107.212.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech
These runs were
with $1250 in mods
92 GMC Typhoon
13.72@100.2 0-60 4.90 Gtech
"Barry E.
King" wrote:
> No direct experience with that particular gauge,
but 1600 F is not adequate
> IMO. You may not want to run that high
all the time but it is possible
> under normal operating conditions to see
1750F or above. If the gauge is
> pegged you won't know what is
really going on.
>
> These are low end gauges in the grand scheme of
things, and although they
> probably work fine, the addage "you get
what you pay for" applies. If you
> are going to use EGT as a
tuning tool I'd recommend raising the budget a bit
> if possible so you
can get a reliable quality gauge.
>
> Barry
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> >
> > Does anyone have experience
with the Autometer EGT gauges? Is the 1600F
> > scale sufficient,
or do you regularly register more than 1600F? I would
> > hate to
install this gauge an later find out that it is inadequate. I
> >
currently have stock turbos/fuel and occasionally run past 15 psi
> >
of boost.
> > It is probably running quite lean at this point.
>
>
> > Thanks,
> > Oskar
> > '95 R/T
TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm-
--------------B2856A9A337B8F84C87AE2D9--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 20:17:11 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
EGT - 1600F gauge sufficient?
The Japanese gauges are often ridiculously
over-priced for what you get.
Autometer makes some great gauges as do other
companies, but they also make
some questionable ones. Without knowing
which specific EGT gauge was being
looked at a cautionary word was in
order.
In my experience with various boost and vacuum gauges, they are
not usually
off by much. As an example, I bought a Sun vacuum/boost
gauge and pump for
$20. It agrees exactly with my electronic gauge in
my TRE MASC and the
analog SPI in the car.
Pyrometers are a different
deal. 100-200 F the wrong way on an EGT gauge
can be the difference
between a finely tuned engine and meltdown. It is
important to know the
calibration point used for the pyrometers and even
what class of pyrometer is
used, since each of these factors determine the
amount of error and its
effective range.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Barry's right about the range. I have an Autometer
2/16" Sport-Comp and
> 1600F isn't quite enough. I barely peg out the
gauge (It actually stops
> at about 1640) after being in boost (15psi) for
a full gear or two. I'm
> sure if I did a top speed run the thing would be
maxed for a long
> period. As far as quality goes don't get duped into
thinking that "it
> costs more, it must be better" mentality
either. Look at all the
> professionals (NHRA, Nascar). They could buy any
gauges they want and
> they buy Autometer. Sorry but I'm not going to
spend $200 on a boost
> gauge when I can get one that works great for $45.
I could care less if
> there's a japanese tuners name on it. To the
best of my knowledge my
> gauge works perfectly and is very
responsive.
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT
>
12.86@107.2>
12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech
> These runs
were with $1250 in mods
> 92 GMC Typhoon
>
13.72@100.2 0-60 4.90 Gtech
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 21:20:00 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Race Dates. Whew!
Holy mackeral! I can't believe so many of
youse guys asked for Race Dates.
Hope I got one to everybody. If you
asked and don't get one by tomorrow,
ask again.
I went through a big long
list of messages, and hope I got everybody.
Man, if all of you come to
the tracks, I won't be running alone any more.
Gawd, it'd be great to have a
whole contingent of 3000GT/Stealths out there
for a change.
And you
don't gotta have a VR4/TT to play -- SLs run pretty dang good too.
If
ANYBODY is serious about doing some road racing, I would be HAPPY
to
lend advice to beginners. I can't help the experts because I'm
still
learning myself, but I can certainly help novices get through the
first
couple of events.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/still a
student
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Dec 1999 09:47:54 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Race dates on the web
Curt Gendron was nice enough to post the
open track/driver school race
dates on his web site:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/5641/track-events2000.docIt
comes up just like the original Word document.
If you know of any additional
dates, I urge you to send them to Jeff
Lacina, keeper of the flame. He
updates the list on a regular basis.
Thanks, Curt.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:08:42 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Belt tension set-up
I have set up my timing belt without the tool
and allowed plenty of time for
the belt to stretch. I have it set so
that the locking pin can be removed
and then reinserted into the hole without
having to wiggle the belt around.
It is my guess that the tension listed in
the manual is a reference point so
that you can get the preload close and
then you fine-tune it from there.
The procedure in the manual seems to
indicate this also. It seems like the
most critical factor is to get
the preload on the belt exactly in balance
with the pressure exerted by the
plunger. The plunger must also be close to
the beginning of its range
of motion.
I am going to try to fire the car again today and see if it
runs. If not,
looks like I have some valve shopping to do. The
motor turns over OK and I
don't hear any tapping from inside so I am hoping
for the best ...
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91
R/T
Vancouver, BC
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Date:
Sat, 1 Jan 2000 09:59:14 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Belt
tension set-up
Dave:
One quick question before
you fire up your car. Did you make sure that
your crankshaft is in
time with your cams? The crankshaft rotates twice for
every one
rotation of your cam gears. Therefore, since your belt jumped
teeth,
it is possible that your crank is 180 degrees out of time even if the
timing
marks line up. I would use the method described in the service manual
to make sure everything is lined up since we do have interference
motors.
Joe 91TT
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End
of Team3S Digest V1 #370
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