--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #369
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
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Team3S Digest Thursday,
December 30 1999 Volume 01 : Number
369
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:23:17 -0700
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <
rcousar@datawest.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost/exhaust
Hi again, I know that all of you guys had read my
previous post. Here is
what is the part I left out. I have an HKS single flow
super dragger. When
the system was disconnected I gained an enormous amount
of power. So much
so, that I was spinning tires while doing launches not
dumping the clutch
but hard launches. Another interesting thing was my torque
range, I had
torque all the way to rev limiter. Damm nice to have that. Also
I could hit
and hold 14 pounds in every gear. Mind you I have no fuel
upgrades, or im
using all stock plumbing, except for my BOV, but im using
stock turbos. The
other amazing thing was my cat was still connected. So that
tells me that my
1100 dollars exhaust system is to restrictive. Its big and
looks good but
now im starting to wonder. The muffler shop that I go to makes
custom
exhaust system all the time. I think I will ask them to make a setup
for me.
A cat back custom setup. They know all about the emission stuff so
that
won't be a problem. But here the kicker if this exhaust system works for
me,
it would work for you. Well I will keep you guys updated on how it goes.
By
the way now my car feels slow as hell.
List of engine
mods
Greedy SBOV
Greedy Profect boost controller
HKS Super Drager
exhaust
HKS Dual flow air filter system
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info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:20:31 -0800
From:
nxiong@juno.comSubject: Team3S: Fitipaldi
Argus fits VR4s??!!
I looked at
www.tirerack.com & noticed Fititpaldi
Argus does fit VR4s??!!
Can someone (fr a shop) please verify this?
cause these wheels look
GOOD!!! and they come in 17x9 size, and they are
reasonably priced. I
wanna know how much do they weigh, how much do
stock VR4 wheels weigh? 30
lbs? and how much can ya get it for...
thanks.
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Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:41:38 -0500
From: "Accelerated Accessories"
<
meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Fitipaldi Argus fits VR4s??!!
>Yes, the Fittipaldi Argus will
fit the 3000GT VR4. In 17x9 I can do $208
>per wheel.
They are in stock and ready to go. For more info please
call
>301-393-8800.
>
>Matt
>
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com>
>>
Can someone (fr a shop) please verify this? cause these wheels
look
>>GOOD!!! and they come in 17x9 size, and they are reasonably
priced
>
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 17:23:01 -0500
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Still Stock Boost
So my saga continues. My problem started out with
not making more than
stock boost, and I noticed it right after installing a
new y-pipe (from
Buschur Racing). After I realized that I was having a
boost problem I put
the stock y-pipe back on (except for the hose coming out
of it to the h
connector) and had no change. So after following some
suggestions of
members of this list I removed the hose from the nipple on the
y-pipe and
capped it. Then I took the car out and could make all the
boost I wanted.
So I replaced the hose coming off the y-pipe with some brand
new fuel line
hose (that was the right size) and just took the car out.
Presto. Stock
Boost.
So, because I can make loads more if I cap
that nipple I can surmise that
the rest of my system is without error
right? By the rest I mean turbos,
IC, IC piping, BOV, etc. So the
problem is somewhere within the y-pipe and
the connections off of the
h-connector (or the h-connector itself). I
think that I'm probably
dealing with either a bad MBC (setting has not
changed and it used to make
way more boost than I wanted it to) or a bad
boost solenoid. Is there
anything else that hasn't been ruled out that
would be letting pressure get
to the wastegates? Anything else that I
could be missing? If it
is the boost controller or the solenoid I'm not
all that concerned because I
have a AVC-R (old kind) ready to install. I
have been forgoing the
installation until I can find the root of this problem.
Am I right in
thinking that if there is a leak in those vacuum lines
(coming off the
h-connector) it will result in more boost, not less?
(effectively another
bleeder valve in the line).
TIA for any responses and
help.
Mark
'93 RT TT
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is
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Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 00:17:00 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Still Stock Boost
> Then I took the car out and could make all
the boost I wanted.
Do you mean above 18 psi for a very short time, right
?
> So I replaced the hose coming off the y-pipe with some brand new
fuel line
> hose (that was the right size) and just took the car
out. Presto. Stock
> Boost.
About 10 psi, right
?
> So, because I can make loads more if I cap that nipple I can
surmise that
> the rest of my system is without error right? By the
rest I mean turbos,
> IC, IC piping, BOV, etc.
Correct, if boost
was really that high.
> So the problem is somewhere within the y-pipe
and
> the connections off of the h-connector (or the h-connector
itself). I
> think that I'm probably dealing with either a bad MBC
(setting has not
> changed and it used to make way more boost than I
wanted it to) or a bad
> boost solenoid.
Definitely the manual crap
that is not doing it's work anymore.
> Is there anything else
that hasn't been ruled out that
> would be letting pressure get to the
wastegates?
No.
> Am I right in thinking that if there is a
leak in those vacuum lines
> (coming off the h-connector) it will result
in more boost, not less?
> (effectively another bleeder valve in the
line).
You got it :)
Just fully remove the old BC setup and
testdrive the car and you should
again get the stock boost. Then remove the
stock boost solenoid out of the
path and you should not see more than 6 psi
or so. Then install the bew
boost solenoid simply between the y-pipe fitting
and the hose that has been
attached to and you're done !
Happy
boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 00:35:43 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost/exhaust
Hey, Ricardo, ave the money and keep what you
already have ! Even more you
may know that the exhaust system after the cat
doesn't play anything
regarding engine emissions !! It is only noise, ...
very loud stuff ! Any
muffler will produce backpressure and HKS is known to
be very quiet but with
good flow. An other system with small straight through
mufflers will be very
loud and the gain may be marginal if real.
>
Another interesting thing was my torque range, I had
> torque all the way
to rev limiter.
No, this was the power because the tourque curve becomes
a strange curve
without an exhaust that produces backpressure ! But for sure
the turbos are
able to hold more boost in the top end.
> Also I
could hit and hold 14 pounds in every gear. Mind you I have no
fuel
upgrades, or im
> using all stock plumbing, except for my BOV, but im
using stock turbos.
This is very normal. The injectors are maxxed out but
you'll normally not
experience fuel cut before reaching 1.2 kg/cm2. The
problem is that with a
longer use of 14 psi around 6000 and more rpm the
intake temperature will
not be cooled down more and you run more and more
into the danger of
detonation.
> The other amazing thing was my cat
was still connected. So that tells me
that my
> 1100 dollars exhaust
system is to restrictive.
Not amazing at all, but what have you done with
the precats ? I guess
nothing. So do the homework at first before blaming the
exhaust system ;-)
The main cat is probably enough for giving a good
backpressure but it is
better to have it in the whole system as this would
cause less pressure
against the turbine wheels airflow.
You'd better
invest in a good downpipe, high flow cat and gutting the pre
cats. If you
then still feel a "slow exhaust" you may try the muffler shop.
Just
make sure the thing will not rust so quick than other custom stuff
:-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 19:37:37 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Can
different rim offset ruin steering feel?
Sorry to keep hammering this
subject, but all replies I've gotten so far have
not been conclusive. [ ...
with specific apologies to Mr. Trent :) ]
Most aftermarket
rims I've looked at place the wheels further outboard than
stock (same
effect as adding spacers between hub and wheel). I would think
that this
makes the car wander more and also amplifies any road bumps felt in
the
steering wheel.
Can anyone confirm this for me?
Thanks!
Paul
Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 17:26:41 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Can different rim offset ruin steering feel?
Changing the
track of a car (front to rear) will change it's
handling
characteristics.
A wider front track will increase oversteer,
a wider rear track will insert more
understeer.
Very small differences
in how you adjust this can make large changes.
To combat understeer in
autox use, I increase my front track the max allowed
under the rules
1/2".
Ths use of spaces on the VR4/Stealth IMHO is very very
dangerous. Ive
personally stretched and broken 8 of the 10 stock studs
on the front of our 95
VR4 within 30 days of using spacers..and this was only
weekend use.
The installation of hardened SAE racing grade studs will be
a huge
improvement...and safe as well.
:-----Original
Message-----
:From:
Klusmanp@aol.com
[
mailto:Klusmanp@aol.com]
:Sent:
Wednesday, December 29, 1999 4:38 PM
:To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com:Subject:
Team3S: Can different rim offset ruin steering feel?
:
:
:Sorry to keep
hammering this subject, but all replies I've
:gotten so far have
:not
been conclusive. [ ... with specific apologies to Mr. Trent :)
]
:
:Most aftermarket rims I've looked at place the wheels further
:outboard than
:stock (same effect as adding spacers between hub and
wheel). I
:would think
:that this makes the car wander more and also
amplifies any
:road bumps felt in
:the steering wheel.
:
:Can
anyone confirm this for me?
:
:Thanks!
:Paul Klusman
:For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
:
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm:
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 18:32:19 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Still Stock Boost
If you haven't done so, check to see if the H-connector
is cracked or
blocked. Try taking it off and making sure all passges
allow air through.
I had one of these crack once but it was a very small
fracture and just
enough to cause a similar but intermittent problem.
Maybe there are other
lines that are either clogged, pinched or
cracked?
You've made some progress. These sorts of problems can be
a pain to track
down.
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 19:04:36 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Possible major oopsie
All,
I just completed the following
work on my car:
- new timing belt and water pump
- replaced all
gaskets from intake ports upward
- new plugs and PCV valve
I got
everything buttoned up this afternoon and went to for the big moment
(will it
start?). The motor fired and then made a sound like the timing
belt was
skipping teeth. I shut it down immediately. I checked the
marks
and the belt had indeed skipped. I set up the belt according to
the service
manual and it ran fine when I did my compression testing.
My question is
this:
IS IT POSSIBLE THAT I HAVE BENT ANY
VALVES??
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver,
BC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 20:24:29 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Possible major oopsie
It is possible. The heads on the 3000GT are
of the interference design.
I figure you'd have to skip about 4 teeth or
more before damage is done but
I don't know for sure, this is a
guesstimate. Let's hope for the best. How
far off did it
go?
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
All,
>
> I just completed the following work on my
car:
>
> - new timing belt and water pump
> -
replaced all gaskets from intake ports upward
> - new plugs and PCV
valve
>
> I got everything buttoned up this afternoon and went to
for the big moment
> (will it start?). The motor fired and then made
a sound like the timing
> belt was skipping teeth. I shut it down
immediately. I checked the marks
> and the belt had indeed
skipped. I set up the belt according to
> the service
> manual
and it ran fine when I did my compression testing. My question is
>
this:
>
> IS IT POSSIBLE THAT I HAVE BENT ANY
VALVES??
>
> Regards,
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91
R/T
> Vancouver, BC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 23:08:02 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Possible major oopsie
Dave:
You may indeed have
bent your valves, depending on how many teeth your
belt really jumped and
how out of time your engine became. If your belt lost
tension, chances are
the amount of teeth it jumped was not uniform all the
way around, meaning
that jumping four teeth on the cam gears doesn't mean you
jumped only four
teeth on the crank gear. Did your car rap really loudly?
If not,
chances are you are okay. But only redoing the job will
tell.
When you redo the job, pay very very very close
attention to how you
adjust the tensioner. Particularly, after you get
the tensioner within
specs, crank the engine through one entire
revolution. If you can take your
plugs out, do this by using a ratchet
or breaker bar on the crank. If you
can't take your plugs out, then
disconnect all the wires at the coils and
crank the engine VERY slowly with
the key. They line up all your marks again
and recheck the
tensioner. You may have to do this three, six, twenty times
before the
tensioner will stay adjusted. Also, every time you adjust the
tensioner and
crank the engine, let the car sit ten minutes or so before
re-checking the
tensioner to provide for belt stretching.
Also, are
you adjusting the tensioner with the special tool? If not,
getting the
tensioner within specs will be extremely difficult due to the
manner in
which the system applies pressure to the belt. This is not to say
that
it cannot be done. Some members of the list may even have done it.
But
IMHO, not using the tool will lead to unreliable results either as a
result
of inadequate tension and the possibility of belt slippage, or
over-tensioning and resulting in premature cam/crank/water pump
wear.
Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 22:41:05 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Possible major oopsie
Ugh. Yeah probably bent
some.
"Cheapest" place for stock replacements (a crank, valves,
springs) for me
was Rockland Mitsubishi in Maryland, 25% off (and
"list" was less than my
local Mits dealer to start with at
Rockland!)...1-914-353-2100, say are on
Internet 3000GT Club and understand
they take off 25%.
You need to know how to do it differently (correctly)
compared to how you
did it before...it is unlikely to randomly work right the
next time either...
Maybe should change the belt tensioner too. Joe has
an excellent message
here...
Jack Tertadian
TrboDrvr@aol.com wrote
[snips]
> may have bent valves, depending how many
teeth jumped. If belt lost
> tension, chances are amount of teeth jumped
was not uniform all
> way around, jumping four teeth on cam gears
doesn't mean
> jumped only four teeth on crank gear. Did car rap
loudly?
> If not, chances are it's okay. Only redoing the job will
tell.
> pay close attention to how you
adjust tensioner. after tension within
> specs, crank engine one
revolution using breaker bar on crank (easier
> with plugs out).
Then line up all marks again
> and recheck tensioner. may have
to do this twenty times
> before tensioner stays adjusted. let car sit ten
minutes before
> re-checking tension to provide for belt
stretch.
> Are you adjusting tension with the
special tool? If not,
> getting tension within specs is difficult due
to
> manner system applies pressure to belt.
> IMHO, not using tool
will lead to unreliable results, either
> inadequate tension=possibility
of belt slippage, or
> over-tensioning=premature cam/crank/water pump
wear.
> Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 00:59:33 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Short
Throw shifters.
I am in need for a quality short throw shifter for a 1st.
generation 3000GT
VR4 (5 speed). Anyone have any ideas?? I know
that CCC's short throw
shifter are on back order for quite some
time.
Thanks in advance, all.
Ahmed "AL-Crazy".
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:00:30 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Short Throw shifters.
Buschur sells one.
http://www.buschurracing.comCurt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
TurboDrvn@aol.com>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>Subject:
Team3S: Short Throw shifters.
>Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 00:59:33
EST
>
>I am in need for a quality short throw shifter for a 1st.
generation 3000GT
>VR4 (5 speed). Anyone have any ideas?? I
know that CCC's short throw
>shifter are on back order for quite some
time.
>
>Thanks in advance, all.
>
>Ahmed
"AL-Crazy".
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at
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Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:50:09 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Possible major oopsie
> IS IT POSSIBLE THAT I HAVE BENT ANY
VALVES??
I think positive (i.e. read between the lines) and would say,
no, null problemo.
Because :
> I set up the belt according to
the service
> manual and it ran fine when I did my compression
testing.
With bent valves you would see a very low compression reading.
Even clogged valveseats showed 15psi less comrpession !
Therefore, if
your compression test was ok, you're lucky and there is zero
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 02:25:43 -0800
From: Nick Xiong <
nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: Are
Roadkills permitted here???
cause I didn't see anything concerning them
from the 3si site.
I finally put the Supra in the Garage and take
out the Vr4 & went to work
(2nd shift). When I got off I managed to
line up w/a new 2 door Accord
on Old Milton pkwy & Kimbal Bridge
Rd. I didn't think anything of it but
the road does merge into one and
I surely wasn't giving away the
leadership position. But whadda ya know
the light turns green and the
Accord FLOORS IT!!! squealing his tires
in the process!!! well I wasn't
even in gear!!! and he gets the
jump on me. I throw it to 1st then
floor it, shift at redline and do a
2nd gear FLY BY at 70mph!!! by the
time I got to Medlock bridge rd,
he's long gone... so on w/the commute
home...
Well right between
Peachtree Ind and Buford hiway (on Pleasant Hill Rd) a
dam PIG gets behind me
and follows me for 1/8th of a mile & pulls me over
for no f___g
reason!!! says he saw me swerving & thought I might have
been
drinking!!! ANYWAY!!! he lets me go, no incident..... dam
pig!!!
Well once I got over the I-85 bridge I see a Red & Black
Mustang (94+
body style) at the lights. It had dual exhausts &
looked like a BOSS. I
line up next to him and see his passenger is some
big oriental guy.. the
guy starts to eyeball my car & chatting w/his
driver. I knew something
was up and the light was gonna go green.
I throw a rev and he revs
back!!! I immediately took the revs to 5k
rpm!!! and the light goes
green and I LEAPED thru the intersection while
bossman sits there
spinning!!! and he never caught up!!!! I was
like, "holy shit
yeah!!!!", "hope there ain't no mo pigs
around!!!" So I got home a
happy, wide awake, adrenaline filled
person...
________________________________________________________________
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Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:34:49 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Are Roadkills permitted here? (Admin Message)
> cause I didn't
see anything concerning them from the 3si site.
3si is NOT the same
organisation as our list is !
No we do not want to have any of these
stories here because this is
tech-oriented list. If you like to post stories
like this please use the Message
board at the 3Si site, Starnet or Dragnet
lists.
Please ask one of the admins first before posting and please
reread the rules !
Thanks for your understanding.
Roger for the
Admins
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Date:
Thu, 30 Dec 1999 10:18:14 -0600
From: wizards <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Short Throw shifters.
Ahmed,
I haven't done it personally, but
I've read of quite a few people on
starnet buying a stock Mitsu shifter, and
then taking it to a local
machine shop to cut it down and re-thread it.
I have no idea what an
OEM shifter would cost, but the local machine shop
time should be pretty
inexpensive. Someone on the list that has
actually done this may be
able to provide you with more detailed
information. Good luck!
Greg
TurboDrvn@aol.com
wrote:
>
> I am in need for a quality short throw shifter for a
1st. generation 3000GT
> VR4 (5 speed). Anyone have any
ideas?? I know that CCC's short throw
> shifter are on back order
for quite some time.
>
> Thanks in advance, all.
>
>
Ahmed "AL-Crazy".
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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