--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #367
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Monday, December 27 1999        Volume 01 : Number 367




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 20:07:06 -0500
From: Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Chrysler DRB II scan tool for sale (old post)

The TMO will work with upto '93 (that I know of), but on their website it
says that it will work if you have the OBD I diagnostic port.  This port is
located near you left foot (when seated in the car) attached to the fuse block.

Mark
'93 RT TT

At 01:49 AM 12/26/99 -0800, you wrote:
>"R.G." wrote:
>
>> > This scanner is $2,800 dealer cost. I will let mine go for $1,500.  It is
>> > basically brand new.  Comes with all the different cables to do both
>> > Chrysler and Mitsubishi.
>
>>The TMO datalogger has a DRBII simulation mode built in ... cost is $300 for
>>OBDI systems (90-93 and some 94) ! Cable is the same for Stealth and 3k.
>
>How can I check whether the TMO will work on my '94?
>
>--Errin Humphrey
>Seattle, WA
>94 VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 20:22:56 -0500
From: Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: y-pipe and boost

After telling my wife a story about my y-pipe blowing off in the worst
neighborhood in my city, and then not having the right tool (dumb) to put
it back on she decided to get me a new y-pipe for Xmas.  Great!  She got me
the powder coated version from Buschur Racing (dunno how, if at all, this
differs from the Alamo one).  So I installed the new y-pipe the same day.
The only issue was the vacuum line that comes off of the y-pipe.  The one
on the Buschur pipe is further away from the plenum than the stock one so
the hose wasn't long enough.  I had a size that was a bit too small for the
h connector, but fit the y-pipe nipple perfectly, so I drilled out one end
of the hose a little and forced it on.

I currently have a Apexi AVC-R (not the new one) in a box, but have an
extreme xbc installed.  Plainly put, the car simply won't make more than
stock boost right now no matter what I do.  It doesn't matter where I put
the boost controller, 9psi is it.  I am clueless as to what the deal is.  I
did remove the vacuum lines from the boost solenoid so I could get to the h
connector but I'm almost positive that I put them back on correctly (boy
will I feel stupid if I didn't).  The stock vacuum line is on the top
portion of the boost solenoid, and the xbc is connect to the bottom.  This
correct?

Anyway .. anyone have any idea why I can only make stock boost after
changing this y-pipe?  (car runs fine, just won't go over 9psi).

TIA for any help.

Mark
'93 RT TT
completely stumped!
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:17:45 -0800
From: "Darcy" <w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: y-pipe and boost

Mark Wrote:


>After telling my wife a story about my y-pipe blowing off in the worst
>neighborhood in my city, and then not having the right tool (dumb) to put
>it back on she decided to get me a new y-pipe for Xmas.  Great!  She got me
>the powder coated version from Buschur Racing (dunno how, if at all, this
>differs from the Alamo one).

Good deal...and a wife who knew what and where to get it is something
admirable to say the least!

So I installed the new y-pipe the same day.
>The only issue was the vacuum line that comes off of the y-pipe.  The one
>on the Buschur pipe is further away from the plenum than the stock one so
>the hose wasn't long enough.  I had a size that was a bit too small for the
>h connector, but fit the y-pipe nipple perfectly, so I drilled out one end
>of the hose a little and forced it on.

Let's assume  no rubber drillings went down the pipe to plug things up???
Check on this remote possiblity with suction.
>
>I currently have a Apexi AVC-R (not the new one) in a box, but have an
>extreme xbc installed.  Plainly put, the car simply won't make more than
>stock boost right now no matter what I do.  It doesn't matter where I put
>the boost controller, 9psi is it.  I am clueless as to what the deal is.  I
>did remove the vacuum lines from the boost solenoid so I could get to the h
>connector but I'm almost positive that I put them back on correctly (boy
>will I feel stupid if I didn't).  The stock vacuum line is on the top
>portion of the boost solenoid, and the xbc is connect to the bottom.  This
>correct?

Check list:

H connector line to the top solenoid nipple : bottom solenoid line down to
the rear turbo nipple. Double check for splits or leaks in the vac lines or
in the connectors. Double check for a tight connection/no leaks on the
Y-pipe. Check for leaking Bypass valve. Insure MAS is plugged in properly.
Did you disconnect battery to do the work?  If not disconnect positive for
30 mins and reconnect. ECU will reset.


That's about all I can think of. Hope it helps ;-))

(Best)   of the season BTW

DArc

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:22:12 -0800
From: "Darcy" <w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: y-pipe and boost

Mark;

My configuration advise for vac lines was  for stock configuration.  I see I
may be in error assuming this after re-reading your post.  As  I am
unfamilar with the bc you speak of, disregard this advise unless it uses the
stock bc.

Best

Darc


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 19:41:37 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: y-pipe and boost

If you are fairly covinced that the boost controller is doing its thing the
next most likely solution is a boost leak.  I had something siilar happen to
me once too.

It turned out that the connector between the Y-pipe and the T-body was loose
enough that at almost exactly 12.5 psi it would leak, but not enough to lose
all boost.  It worked like a blow-off valve just by fluke of luck.

I had checked the connector a couple of times.  It was tight by feel, and
the T-clamp was quite snug, but was just a tiny bit crooked on the T-body
flange.  I had eliminated every possible source and was starting back at the
basics -- sure enough that's what it was.  I removed it, cleaned it and
carefully reassembled and was rewarded with enough boost to, well, blow my
engine =)  I recommend everything except the very last part.


Barry


> -----Original Message-----
>
> After telling my wife a story about my y-pipe blowing off in the worst
> neighborhood in my city, and then not having the right tool (dumb) to put
> it back on she decided to get me a new y-pipe for Xmas.  Great!
> She got me
> the powder coated version from Buschur Racing (dunno how, if at all, this
> differs from the Alamo one).  So I installed the new y-pipe the same day.
> The only issue was the vacuum line that comes off of the y-pipe.  The one
> on the Buschur pipe is further away from the plenum than the stock one so
> the hose wasn't long enough.  I had a size that was a bit too
> small for the
> h connector, but fit the y-pipe nipple perfectly, so I drilled out one end
> of the hose a little and forced it on.
>
> I currently have a Apexi AVC-R (not the new one) in a box, but have an
> extreme xbc installed.  Plainly put, the car simply won't make more than
> stock boost right now no matter what I do.  It doesn't matter where I put
> the boost controller, 9psi is it.  I am clueless as to what the
> deal is.  I
> did remove the vacuum lines from the boost solenoid so I could
> get to the h
> connector but I'm almost positive that I put them back on correctly (boy
> will I feel stupid if I didn't).  The stock vacuum line is on the top
> portion of the boost solenoid, and the xbc is connect to the bottom.  This
> correct?
>
> Anyway .. anyone have any idea why I can only make stock boost after
> changing this y-pipe?  (car runs fine, just won't go over 9psi).
>
> TIA for any help.
>
> Mark
> '93 RT TT
> completely stumped!

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:59:05 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Can't get crank pulley bolt off

I am trying to remove my crankshaft pulley.  I can't get the pulley bolt off
because I do not have the spanner to prevent the crank from turning.  Even
with the car in top gear and the brake rotors locked, there is still too
much drivetrain slop to get the bolt loose.  Has anyone else encountered
this problem?


Regards,

Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver, BC



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 21:23:30 -0500
From: "Brad Younkman" <stealth@digitalexp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Can't get crank pulley bolt off

I just replaced mine. The way I did it was from some advice someone(Kevin)
on this list gave me. Take a breaker bar and rest it against the frame.
Uplug the spark plug wires and tap the starter.  The bolt will loosen right
up. Worked like a champ. The only other thing I had to do was, there is a
roll pin aligning the crankshaft pulley and timing belt pulley together. I
had to drill a little bit of it off so I could seperate the two. If you need
more help contact me.

Brad
91 Stealth RT TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Holden <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
To: 3000GT Mailing (E-mail) <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, December 26, 1999 10:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: Can't get crank pulley bolt off


>I am trying to remove my crankshaft pulley.  I can't get the pulley bolt
off
>because I do not have the spanner to prevent the crank from turning.  Even
>with the car in top gear and the brake rotors locked, there is still too
>much drivetrain slop to get the bolt loose.  Has anyone else encountered
>this problem?
>
>
>Regards,
>
> Dave Holden
> Pearl White '91 R/T
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:47:05 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump voltage (old post)

Errin,

Check the manual on the Supra or our cars and you'll see that the elec.
design is very similar, although the Supras seem to activate the relay that
switches from 8,5 - 12V later than our cars. Pump is pump and it has no
"electrical intelligence" in it.

> Question:  With the Supra fuel pump installed in a 3000GT, would it be
> necessary to take measures to make the fuel pump run in 12V full time?
> Or will it automatically run full time in 12V when installed in my car?
> Read more at mkiv.com --> tech articles --> other mods --> 12V fuel
> pump mod.

As explained, just shorten the relay and you always have 12V at the pump -
with some loss of course due to the wiring harness, but nobody every
measured the real voltage.

> Also, I'm interested in this possibility of running it in 14V using the
Kenne
> Belle thingie.  Safety first, ya know.

Sure, Boost-A-Pump works without any problem, but you know the voltage is
about 14.1V with the alternator charging properly. The device can be
adjusted to deliver 17V and this is really at the edge for the pump, but
it's for a short time anyways.

Question : Why does one increase the voltage at the pump when he still runs
too slow injectors ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:48:53 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Chrysler DRB II scan tool for sale (old post)

You may have to make your own plug to the new style diagnostic connector and
give it a try. If it doesn't work you may be able to sell it without a
problem.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> How can I check whether the TMO will work on my '94?


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:20:16 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection (old post)

> So you're saying that the stock boost solenoid must be "told" to
> activate by the ECU (after it has calculated boost from airflow)?
> So the stock boost solenoid does not simply activate by itself
> mechanically at the preset stock boost levels?

Yes, yes, of course. There is no boost sensor ! Of course, also if air flow
is medium but knock present the ECU also closes the valve.

> Or do both of these things work together?

No, the boost solenoid is a passive system and has zero intelligence (as teh
most parts in our cars)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:24:33 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: MSD DIS-4 pricing

> I believe the DIS-4 is a 3 or 4 channel switchable unit.  For our cars you
> set it to 3 channel.  I believe our real problem lies with those coil
packs
> though.

I think a good system will be able to drive the coils although there IS NO
(!!) system that eliminates the stock power transistors ! Also there are
some that do NOT work on our cars and causing the tach to show strange
things !

> Roger, weren't you working on a replacement for those?  Any luck?

No luck yet, because the stock voltage is already in the 480V range and the
coils look very saturated. I came to the conclusion that a GN coil pack may
be the best solution but I haven't found any salvage yard carrying one. The
GN where not very popular with it's boxy style in Europe ;-) Hope to get a
pack soon.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:28:47 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: injectors and questions

Guys, remember, at 15 psi the injectors are fully maxxed out at an IDC of
100%. I think this is even the case at 13-14psi but I'm not sure. Industrial
standard is saying to operate an injector not above 80%. We learned that our
injectors do not fail if the working area is that high but the spraying
pattern may getting degraded over the time.

This is why almost everyone that upgraded the injectors (TT of course) speak
of the best gain they got !

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:20:58 -0500
From: Rick <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine for 91 R/T Turbo

At 05:12 PM 12/26/99 -0500, Jay Price Stump wrote:
>I am looking at having my engine rebuilt. Does anyone know of quality
>rebuilders in the Baltimore/ Washington area. How many $$$ should I be
>looking to spend for a stock rebuild and  a moderate performance
>rebuild. I figure if I have the interenal now I can always upgrade the
>bolt- ons. Would I be better off getting a short/long block from
>Misubishi than getting my engine rebuilt. Thanks for your comments/help.

I have a pair of brand new turbos for your car for sale if you are interested.

Rick




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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:55:25 EST
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: GN coil pack. Was: Re: Team3S: MSD DIS-4 pricing

Happy Holidays everyone,

    Well, Roger.......I am also an owner of a highly modified Buick GN; I do
have an extra GN original/factory coil pack available (has about 72,000 miles
on it).  In my opinion the original coil pack was still in good condition
when I replaced with a new one back in 1995 (I tend to replace major
components/parts even when unnecessary to avoid future problems).  This coil
pack has been sitting on a shelf for 4 years in the garage where my GN is
stored; So I hope it will be functional for you to use.

So if you would like this original coil pack from my GN for further tests for
our 3000GT/TT/Stealth//TT's, please let me know - Please email me privately
with your shipping address.

Best of luck & talk to you soon,

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - Still NO Boost !!!!
& '87 Buick Grand National (for Sale)  (way too many mods to list).


In a message dated 12/27/99 6:36:43 AM Central Standard Time,
robby@freesurf.ch writes:

<< No luck yet, because the stock voltage is already in the 480V range and the
coils look very saturated. I came to the conclusion that a GN coil pack may
be the best solution but I haven't found any salvage yard carrying one. The
GN where not very popular with it's boxy style in Europe ;-) Hope to get a
pack soon.

Roger
93'3000GT TT >>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 19:12:27 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT's

> Matthews wrote:
>
> > Rick wrote:
> >
> > > I am currently running 18psi with the 550injectors and STOCK fuel pump.  My
> > > lights on the cyberdyne are sitting at FULL rich @ WOT.  Hence, the
> > > question "Do I REALLY need the HKS Cosmo pump?"
> >
> > Impressive.  Full rich at WOT is not surprising at lower RPMs.  Are you
> > saying it's full rich pushing 18psi at 6500+ RPM?  I think Roger did the
> > math and the stock pump falls short (I've CCed him for clarification).
> > Can your 13Gs maintain 18psi to redline?  Are you experiencing any
> > detonation (assuming you have a way to measure it)?

Rick wrote:
>
> YES.  That is the AMAZING THIING.  Before with the stock fuel pump and
> stock injector combo, the cyberdyne would show full rich (at approx 16psi
> or so) until I reached about 5,000 rpms, then the lights would start
> dropping off......that is when I just let off the throttle...
>
> Now with the 550 injectors (and STOCK pump) at 18psi boost the cyberdyne is
> reading FULL rich all the way to redline.  (and yes it does hold the 18psi
> ALL THE WAY to the redline).  I know it sounds impossible (and certainly
> controdictory to what others are seeing on their cars) but I'm telling
> you.... it really holds the boost at a SOLID 18 and the lights stay up at
> Full all the way through the gear.
>
> That is why I am having a tough time bringing myself to install the $400
> fuel pump.
>
> Maybe the 94's have a higher flowing pump?

Roger wrote:
>
> First, full rich is not enough ! Sounds strange but is true, because ... how
> rich is rich ? 0.92V at the O2 sensors is rich and the cyberdyne shows full rich
> since 0.86V. But even at 0.92V there is too much knock. Increasing fuel more and
> more reduces knock and at around 0.96V it was fully eliminated. An A/F gauge is
> simply said ... not worth the money !
>
> Running 18 psi with the described mods is possible. Fuel pressure is at 59 psi
> then and fuel flow at 48gal/hr at 80% IDC. But here the IDC is very, very
> important because at 59 psi the stock pump is only able to deliver ca. 33gal/hr.
> If IDC is only 60% then the fuel pump only has to deliver 37gal/hr. Upgrading
> the pump is necessary in any way. You may not got any starvation or problems due
> to the fact that the pump is better as written on the paper, but it is running
> at the edge of its life.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT

Rick may actually be in the safe zone due to his other mods, which
include intercooler upgrades (CarTech) and low restriction exhaust
(eliminated/gutted precats, no cat, HKS cat-back).  With a cooler air
charge, less fuel would be required to avoid detonation.  But without a
way to monitor all of these variables, we can't know for sure.

Interesting that 13Gs can sustain 18psi to redline... why bother with
15Gs?  Is the constant increase in lag really worth the occasional
elevated temperatures?

- -Jim (still waiting for that perfect performance formula before
upgrading - we're getting close!)

- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 16:39:06 -0500
From: Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: Still no boost

So I thought that changing my y-pipe (see previous post) had caused me to
lose max boost, but I was wrong.  There is definitely something wrong.  I
couldn't do anything to make the car make more than stock boost.  I checked
and double checked all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine.  I
took my manual boost controller off and took it apart (extreme xbc) and it
seemed fine.  I didn't know how to check the boost solenoid, so what I did
was take the vacuum hose from the h connector that goes to the boost
solenoid and just left it off.  If I have a correct understanding of how
this all works together, I should have had in essence a wide open bleeder
valve.  I should have been able to hit the max boost of the turbos, and I
was able to exceed stock boost.  My max boost was 10.5 - 11 psi.  I took an
air hose and connected it to the vacuum hose that opens the waste gates and
applied pressure, the waste gates opened.  I applied pressure to the vacuum
hose out of the manifold that pressurizes the BOV and I could feel the
diaphragm moving (and could hear it).  I didn't know how to check the BOV
for leaks.  I thought maybe the problem was with my new Y-pipe so I
reinstalled the stock one, same problem exists.

I'm not sure what else it could be or where to go from here..  Anyone have
any idea?

It seems a little coincidental that this would happen the day and time that
I changed my y-pipe.  I may have driven the car for a time without the
vacuum hose from the y-pipe connected, but I couldn't see how this could
cause damage.

TIA for any help.

Mark
'93 RT TT ---- need boost.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 16:00:58 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still no boost

> So I thought that changing my y-pipe (see previous post) had caused me to
> lose max boost, but I was wrong.  There is definitely something wrong.  I
> couldn't do anything to make the car make more than stock boost.  I checked
> and double checked all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine.  I
> took my manual boost controller off and took it apart (extreme xbc) and it
> seemed fine.  I didn't know how to check the boost solenoid, so what I did
> was take the vacuum hose from the h connector that goes to the boost
> solenoid and just left it off.  If I have a correct understanding of how
> this all works together, I should have had in essence a wide
> open bleeder valve.  I should have been able to hit the max boost of the
> turbos, and I was able to exceed stock boost.  My max boost was 10.5 - 11
> psi.  I took an air hose and connected it to the vacuum hose that opens the
> waste gates and applied pressure, the waste gates opened.  I applied pressure
> to the vacuum hose out of the manifold that pressurizes the BOV and I could feel the
> diaphragm moving (and could hear it).  I didn't know how to
> check the BOV for leaks.  I thought maybe the problem was with my new Y-pipe so I
> reinstalled the stock one, same problem exists.

Well, taking off the hose that leads from the H-connector to the boost control solenoid does allow for maximum bleedoff of the boost pressure, however that doesn't mean you'll get maximum boost.  The bleeder line is still restrictive and allows a lot of the boost to make its way to the wastegates.

Plug the nipple on the Y-pipe.  Hook the input to the controller into the line that feeds the blowoff valve (it starts on the top of the throttle body and goes to the BOV under the airflow sensor) with a "T" fitting.  Remove the H-connector and stock boost control solenoid.  Plug the line that goes from the boost solenoid to the rear turbo.  Put a "T" fitting in the lines to both wastegates and connect the output side of the boost controller to the "T".

There is a post of mine in the archives from about a month or two back that describes in more detail how to hook this up.

> It seems a little coincidental that this would happen the day and time that
> I changed my y-pipe.  I may have driven the car for a time without the
> vacuum hose from the y-pipe connected, but I couldn't see how
> this could cause damage.

Here's another post I made which might help shed some light on possible causes and fixes:

- ------------------------------------------------------------

> 3)  We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses that lead to
> the y-pipe; we also pressure tested the hoses that lead to
> the intercoolers; everything checked out healthy/fine!  No
> leaks were found and the clamps were all tight!!

Hmm...  How about the hoses that attach to the throttle body?  BOV line?  Not sure how the Apex'i BOV works, but the stock one requires pressure in the line to help work against the boost pressure on the Y-pipe side to hold the valve closed.  The valve opens due to pressure differential, so if it is seeing no pressure on the input from throttle body, it might pop open.

> So everything mechanical checked out okay!!??  Which leads me
> to believe, "do I have an electrical/ECU problem????"   Any
> thoughts from you guys?????

The boost control system is strictly mechanical in nature.  The only part that is electronically controlled is the maximum boost pressure beyond where the wastegates are triggered mechanically.  I seem to recall that the mechanical resistance in the wastegates is 6 psi, so you should at least see that.  Since you aren't getting that (as far as we know), then something in the intake tract or exhaust side of the turbos is not working properly.  I doubt a siezed turbo or other turbo malfunctions since you aren't getting any boost.  Even on one turbo you should still see boost, although it will fall off very quickly.

> My next plan of attack:
>
> 1)  Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about
> 7,000 miles old); I'm   wondering if my rear plugs are real
> fouled up or faulty???  Due to how rich (HKS fuel pump and
> 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to possible worn valve
> seals??????   IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
> again; maybe I should   NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at    
> stock/factory gap??????

I seriously doubt this is the cause.  If the car runs at all, you should still be able to see at least some boost.  On my Eclipse I had a serious problem where it was only injecting fuel into 2 cylinders and I still got boost.  If you suspect worn valve seals, do a compression test to find out.
 
> 2)  Compression test

:-)

> 3)  replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov.  (worth a try)

Yes, do this.  Or, just seal the intake pipe where the BOV attaches to verify that this isn't leaking.  Make sure the line from the TB is attached to the stock BOV.

> 4)  Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be
> the cause of this problem??????????? ( I highly
> doubt it)  But Roger, you mentioned before if I'm running
> too rich????

Highly unlikely.  If the car is burning any mixture at all, it should still have enough exhaust gasses to spin the turbos.  You mentioned that the turbos seemed to be sucking in plenty of air when you looked at the compressor side, so I think your turbos are working fine.  The air just isn't making it into the throttle body (or your boost gauge isn't working, although it sounds like you can certainly feel that there's no boost).

> 5)  Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's defective?????  (I'm just
> reaching for ideas!)

Doesn't match your symptom list.

> 6)  don't know what else to check???????????????????

I had exactly what you are describing, only my car still made 6 psi.  It was a disconnected stock BOV line.  You could hear the turbos sucking in air (the characteristic turbo whine), but the BOV was just dumping the air into the pre-turbo side of the intake.  If your BOV vents to atmosphere, then it would be dumping out there and your car would run very* rich (possibly causing the smoke you are seeing - unburned fuel).

- ---------------------------------

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 00:48:11 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still no boost

I just wish to be able to look at your car myself because this kind of
diagnostic is very hard to do.

> and double checked all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine.

So you made everyting back to stock, right ?

> was able to exceed stock boost.  My max boost was 10.5 - 11 psi.

This is definitely not enough. Even with the hose open you should easily
exceed 17 psi !!

> I'm not sure what else it could be or where to go from here..  Anyone have
> any idea?

Well, you must find the hissing sound aorund the manifold. It really sounds
like something is broken or it is also possible that you have enough carbon
buildup around the intake valve seats that the cannot fully close.

If you say it started with the new y-pipe then I can only think of the
intake gasket at the TB. it is either broken or not fully mounted and
therefore pressure is leaking there. This would explain the sound and the
pressure drop at the time after the install.

Everything back to stock is what I told you some time ago and you have to
eliminate EVERYTHING like the manual thing or any EBC. If you still have a
hissing sound you can go further as the exhaust manifold in the rear may
have a crack or the turbine housing is leaking. If you can hear the sound at
idle, it is mostly not the compressor wheel housing and if it is increasing
when reving it up then it's air flow related but it can simply be a crack in
the brake or clutch hose and this will cause a boost drop as well.

Very hard to determine what is wrong and you may need one looking into your
car who's living closer to you.

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 01:00:20 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT's

> Rick may actually be in the safe zone due to his other mods, which
> include intercooler upgrades (CarTech) and low restriction exhaust
> (eliminated/gutted precats, no cat, HKS cat-back).  With a cooler air
> charge, less fuel would be required to avoid detonation.  But without a
> way to monitor all of these variables, we can't know for sure.

Yes, I agree but you know there is a fuel controller that is set to rich but
it is probably not reach enough or just too rich. This cannot be answered
without a logging device.

> Interesting that 13Gs can sustain 18psi to redline... why bother with
> 15Gs?  Is the constant increase in lag really worth the occasional
> elevated temperatures?

The exhaust plays an important rule here. Gutting the precats ist where to
start ... just remember our dyno sessions where we didn't benefit of a
downpipe nor exhaust as we all had the same precats installed. With my
current (totally stock) exhaust I'm running 1.12 kg/cm2 to the redline
without a problem but this is only possible with WI and some overboost (1.18
kg/cm2) at the beginning.

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 19:42:29 -0500
From: Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still no boost

Roger,

Thanks for the reply.. but I think you might have me confused with someone
else.  I don't have any hissing noise that I am aware of, and returning the
whole system to stock wouldn't really get me anywhere as the problem is I
can't make over stock boost.  If I return the car to stock then everything
will appear ok.  My problem is that I can't make it make more than stock boost.

I'm not really noticing a drop off in boost, and I am able to hold ~8psi
all the way (actually increases some as rpm rises).  My problem is simply
the amount (psi) of boost I can create (in any gear, at any rpm).  Lastly,
I think you might have me confused with someone else because today (err
last night for me) was the first time I have ever posted anything boost
related to this list.  I have posted a few other times, but that was for
the getrag and a intermitten shut off problem.

I am a little concerned if I am wrong here.  If you are not confusing me
with someone else then the problem could be a lot more serious than I had
anticipated.  Bad valve seals and cracks in manifolds are not what I
thought would be causing this problem.  Fortunately if it is something
broken like that, I will be able to get it repaired under warranty.

Thanks for your reply and I welcome any more ideas as to the culprit.

TIA,

Mark
'93 RT TT -- a little frightened now...


At 12:48 AM 12/28/99 +0100, R.G. wrote:
>I just wish to be able to look at your car myself because this kind of
>diagnostic is very hard to do.
>
>> and double checked all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine.
>
>So you made everyting back to stock, right ?
>
>> was able to exceed stock boost.  My max boost was 10.5 - 11 psi.
>
>This is definitely not enough. Even with the hose open you should easily
>exceed 17 psi !!
>
>> I'm not sure what else it could be or where to go from here..  Anyone have
>> any idea?
>
>Well, you must find the hissing sound aorund the manifold. It really sounds
>like something is broken or it is also possible that you have enough carbon
>buildup around the intake valve seats that the cannot fully close.
>
>If you say it started with the new y-pipe then I can only think of the
>intake gasket at the TB. it is either broken or not fully mounted and
>therefore pressure is leaking there. This would explain the sound and the
>pressure drop at the time after the install.
>
>Everything back to stock is what I told you some time ago and you have to
>eliminate EVERYTHING like the manual thing or any EBC. If you still have a
>hissing sound you can go further as the exhaust manifold in the rear may
>have a crack or the turbine housing is leaking. If you can hear the sound at
>idle, it is mostly not the compressor wheel housing and if it is increasing
>when reving it up then it's air flow related but it can simply be a crack in
>the brake or clutch hose and this will cause a boost drop as well.
>
>Very hard to determine what is wrong and you may need one looking into your
>car who's living closer to you.
>
>Good luck
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 02:23:25 EST
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: possible transfer case problem

  This is my first post but its a serious problem so here goes:

  I noticed this afternoon, while tooling around in 3rd, that if i floored
the gas the engine would just rev right up to about 5000 rpm before id get
any acceleration.  The turbo spools but theres just nothing getting to the
wheels.  Am i looking at a transfer case problem?  I just had it replaced
about 500 miles ago, and im about due for and oil change.  Any suggestions as
to problems and/or solutions would be much appreciated.

Joe

'93 Stealth RT/TT
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------------------------------

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