--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #367
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Monday,
December 27 1999 Volume 01 : Number
367
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 20:07:06 -0500
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Chrysler DRB II scan tool for sale (old post)
The TMO will work with upto
'93 (that I know of), but on their website it
says that it will work if you
have the OBD I diagnostic port. This port is
located near you left foot
(when seated in the car) attached to the fuse block.
Mark
'93 RT
TT
At 01:49 AM 12/26/99 -0800, you wrote:
>"R.G."
wrote:
>
>> > This scanner is $2,800 dealer cost. I will let
mine go for $1,500. It is
>> > basically brand new.
Comes with all the different cables to do both
>> > Chrysler and
Mitsubishi.
>
>>The TMO datalogger has a DRBII simulation mode
built in ... cost is $300 for
>>OBDI systems (90-93 and some 94) !
Cable is the same for Stealth and 3k.
>
>How can I check whether the
TMO will work on my '94?
>
>--Errin Humphrey
>Seattle,
WA
>94 VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 20:22:56 -0500
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
y-pipe and boost
After telling my wife a story about my y-pipe blowing
off in the worst
neighborhood in my city, and then not having the right tool
(dumb) to put
it back on she decided to get me a new y-pipe for Xmas.
Great! She got me
the powder coated version from Buschur Racing (dunno
how, if at all, this
differs from the Alamo one). So I installed the
new y-pipe the same day.
The only issue was the vacuum line that comes off of
the y-pipe. The one
on the Buschur pipe is further away from the plenum
than the stock one so
the hose wasn't long enough. I had a size that
was a bit too small for the
h connector, but fit the y-pipe nipple perfectly,
so I drilled out one end
of the hose a little and forced it on.
I
currently have a Apexi AVC-R (not the new one) in a box, but have an
extreme
xbc installed. Plainly put, the car simply won't make more than
stock
boost right now no matter what I do. It doesn't matter where I put
the
boost controller, 9psi is it. I am clueless as to what the deal is.
I
did remove the vacuum lines from the boost solenoid so I could get to the
h
connector but I'm almost positive that I put them back on correctly
(boy
will I feel stupid if I didn't). The stock vacuum line is on the
top
portion of the boost solenoid, and the xbc is connect to the
bottom. This
correct?
Anyway .. anyone have any idea why I can
only make stock boost after
changing this y-pipe? (car runs fine, just
won't go over 9psi).
TIA for any help.
Mark
'93 RT
TT
completely stumped!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:17:45 -0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
y-pipe and boost
Mark Wrote:
>After telling my wife a story
about my y-pipe blowing off in the worst
>neighborhood in my city, and
then not having the right tool (dumb) to put
>it back on she decided to
get me a new y-pipe for Xmas. Great! She got me
>the powder
coated version from Buschur Racing (dunno how, if at all, this
>differs
from the Alamo one).
Good deal...and a wife who knew what and where to
get it is something
admirable to say the least!
So I installed the new
y-pipe the same day.
>The only issue was the vacuum line that comes off of
the y-pipe. The one
>on the Buschur pipe is further away from the
plenum than the stock one so
>the hose wasn't long enough. I had a
size that was a bit too small for the
>h connector, but fit the y-pipe
nipple perfectly, so I drilled out one end
>of the hose a little and
forced it on.
Let's assume no rubber drillings went down the pipe
to plug things up???
Check on this remote possiblity with
suction.
>
>I currently have a Apexi AVC-R (not the new one) in a
box, but have an
>extreme xbc installed. Plainly put, the car simply
won't make more than
>stock boost right now no matter what I do. It
doesn't matter where I put
>the boost controller, 9psi is it. I am
clueless as to what the deal is. I
>did remove the vacuum lines from
the boost solenoid so I could get to the h
>connector but I'm almost
positive that I put them back on correctly (boy
>will I feel stupid if I
didn't). The stock vacuum line is on the top
>portion of the boost
solenoid, and the xbc is connect to the bottom.
This
>correct?
Check list:
H connector line to the top
solenoid nipple : bottom solenoid line down to
the rear turbo nipple. Double
check for splits or leaks in the vac lines or
in the connectors. Double check
for a tight connection/no leaks on the
Y-pipe. Check for leaking Bypass
valve. Insure MAS is plugged in properly.
Did you disconnect battery to do
the work? If not disconnect positive for
30 mins and reconnect. ECU
will reset.
That's about all I can think of. Hope it helps
;-))
(Best) of the season BTW
DArc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:22:12 -0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
y-pipe and boost
Mark;
My configuration advise for vac lines
was for stock configuration. I see I
may be in error assuming
this after re-reading your post. As I am
unfamilar with the bc
you speak of, disregard this advise unless it uses the
stock
bc.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 19:41:37 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
y-pipe and boost
If you are fairly covinced that the boost controller is
doing its thing the
next most likely solution is a boost leak. I had
something siilar happen to
me once too.
It turned out that the
connector between the Y-pipe and the T-body was loose
enough that at almost
exactly 12.5 psi it would leak, but not enough to lose
all boost. It
worked like a blow-off valve just by fluke of luck.
I had checked the
connector a couple of times. It was tight by feel, and
the T-clamp was
quite snug, but was just a tiny bit crooked on the T-body
flange. I had
eliminated every possible source and was starting back at the
basics -- sure
enough that's what it was. I removed it, cleaned it and
carefully
reassembled and was rewarded with enough boost to, well, blow my
engine
=) I recommend everything except the very last
part.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> After telling my wife a story about my y-pipe
blowing off in the worst
> neighborhood in my city, and then not having
the right tool (dumb) to put
> it back on she decided to get me a new
y-pipe for Xmas. Great!
> She got me
> the powder coated
version from Buschur Racing (dunno how, if at all, this
> differs from the
Alamo one). So I installed the new y-pipe the same day.
> The only
issue was the vacuum line that comes off of the y-pipe. The one
> on
the Buschur pipe is further away from the plenum than the stock one so
>
the hose wasn't long enough. I had a size that was a bit too
> small
for the
> h connector, but fit the y-pipe nipple perfectly, so I drilled
out one end
> of the hose a little and forced it on.
>
> I
currently have a Apexi AVC-R (not the new one) in a box, but have an
>
extreme xbc installed. Plainly put, the car simply won't make more
than
> stock boost right now no matter what I do. It doesn't matter
where I put
> the boost controller, 9psi is it. I am clueless as to
what the
> deal is. I
> did remove the vacuum lines from the
boost solenoid so I could
> get to the h
> connector but I'm almost
positive that I put them back on correctly (boy
> will I feel stupid if I
didn't). The stock vacuum line is on the top
> portion of the boost
solenoid, and the xbc is connect to the bottom. This
>
correct?
>
> Anyway .. anyone have any idea why I can only make
stock boost after
> changing this y-pipe? (car runs fine, just won't
go over 9psi).
>
> TIA for any help.
>
> Mark
>
'93 RT TT
> completely stumped!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:59:05 -0800
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Can't get crank pulley bolt off
I am trying to remove my
crankshaft pulley. I can't get the pulley bolt off
because I do not
have the spanner to prevent the crank from turning. Even
with the car
in top gear and the brake rotors locked, there is still too
much drivetrain
slop to get the bolt loose. Has anyone else encountered
this
problem?
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91
R/T
Vancouver, BC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 21:23:30 -0500
From: "Brad Younkman" <
stealth@digitalexp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can't get crank pulley bolt off
I just replaced mine. The way
I did it was from some advice someone(Kevin)
on this list gave me. Take a
breaker bar and rest it against the frame.
Uplug the spark plug wires and tap
the starter. The bolt will loosen right
up. Worked like a champ. The
only other thing I had to do was, there is a
roll pin aligning the crankshaft
pulley and timing belt pulley together. I
had to drill a little bit of it off
so I could seperate the two. If you need
more help contact
me.
Brad
91 Stealth RT TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Dave Holden <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
To:
3000GT Mailing (E-mail) <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, December 26, 1999 10:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: Can't get crank pulley
bolt off
>I am trying to remove my crankshaft pulley. I
can't get the pulley bolt
off
>because I do not have the spanner to
prevent the crank from turning. Even
>with the car in top gear and
the brake rotors locked, there is still too
>much drivetrain slop to get
the bolt loose. Has anyone else encountered
>this
problem?
>
>
>Regards,
>
> Dave Holden
>
Pearl White '91 R/T
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:47:05 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump voltage (old post)
Errin,
Check the manual on
the Supra or our cars and you'll see that the elec.
design is very similar,
although the Supras seem to activate the relay that
switches from 8,5 - 12V
later than our cars. Pump is pump and it has no
"electrical
intelligence" in it.
> Question: With the Supra fuel pump
installed in a 3000GT, would it be
> necessary to take measures to make
the fuel pump run in 12V full time?
> Or will it automatically run full
time in 12V when installed in my car?
> Read more at mkiv.com --> tech
articles --> other mods --> 12V fuel
> pump mod.
As
explained, just shorten the relay and you always have 12V at the pump -
with
some loss of course due to the wiring harness, but nobody every
measured the
real voltage.
> Also, I'm interested in this possibility of running it
in 14V using the
Kenne
> Belle thingie. Safety first, ya
know.
Sure, Boost-A-Pump works without any problem, but you know the
voltage is
about 14.1V with the alternator charging properly. The device can
be
adjusted to deliver 17V and this is really at the edge for the pump,
but
it's for a short time anyways.
Question : Why does one increase
the voltage at the pump when he still runs
too slow injectors
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:48:53 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chrysler DRB II scan tool for sale (old post)
You may have to
make your own plug to the new style diagnostic connector and
give it a try.
If it doesn't work you may be able to sell it without
a
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> How can I check whether
the TMO will work on my '94?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:20:16 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water Injection (old post)
> So you're saying that the stock
boost solenoid must be "told" to
> activate by the ECU (after it
has calculated boost from airflow)?
> So the stock boost solenoid does not
simply activate by itself
> mechanically at the preset stock boost
levels?
Yes, yes, of course. There is no boost sensor ! Of course, also
if air flow
is medium but knock present the ECU also closes the
valve.
> Or do both of these things work together?
No, the
boost solenoid is a passive system and has zero intelligence (as teh
most
parts in our cars)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:24:33 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MSD DIS-4 pricing
> I believe the DIS-4 is a 3 or 4 channel
switchable unit. For our cars you
> set it to 3 channel. I
believe our real problem lies with those coil
packs
> though.
I
think a good system will be able to drive the coils although there IS NO
(!!)
system that eliminates the stock power transistors ! Also there are
some that
do NOT work on our cars and causing the tach to show strange
things
!
> Roger, weren't you working on a replacement for those? Any
luck?
No luck yet, because the stock voltage is already in the 480V range
and the
coils look very saturated. I came to the conclusion that a GN coil
pack may
be the best solution but I haven't found any salvage yard carrying
one. The
GN where not very popular with it's boxy style in Europe ;-) Hope to
get a
pack soon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:28:47 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: injectors and questions
Guys, remember, at 15 psi the injectors
are fully maxxed out at an IDC of
100%. I think this is even the case at
13-14psi but I'm not sure. Industrial
standard is saying to operate an
injector not above 80%. We learned that our
injectors do not fail if the
working area is that high but the spraying
pattern may getting degraded over
the time.
This is why almost everyone that upgraded the injectors (TT of
course) speak
of the best gain they got !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:20:58 -0500
From: Rick <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine for 91 R/T Turbo
At 05:12 PM 12/26/99 -0500, Jay Price
Stump wrote:
>I am looking at having my engine rebuilt. Does anyone know
of quality
>rebuilders in the Baltimore/ Washington area. How many $$$
should I be
>looking to spend for a stock rebuild and a moderate
performance
>rebuild. I figure if I have the interenal now I can always
upgrade the
>bolt- ons. Would I be better off getting a short/long block
from
>Misubishi than getting my engine rebuilt. Thanks for your
comments/help.
I have a pair of brand new turbos for your car for sale if
you are interested.
Rick
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:55:25 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: GN coil pack.
Was: Re: Team3S: MSD DIS-4 pricing
Happy Holidays
everyone,
Well, Roger.......I am also an owner of a
highly modified Buick GN; I do
have an extra GN original/factory coil pack
available (has about 72,000 miles
on it). In my opinion the original
coil pack was still in good condition
when I replaced with a new one back in
1995 (I tend to replace major
components/parts even when unnecessary to
avoid future problems). This coil
pack has been sitting on a shelf for
4 years in the garage where my GN is
stored; So I hope it will be functional
for you to use.
So if you would like this original coil pack from my GN
for further tests for
our 3000GT/TT/Stealth//TT's, please let me know -
Please email me privately
with your shipping address.
Best of luck
& talk to you soon,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - Still NO
Boost !!!!
& '87 Buick Grand National (for Sale) (way too many mods
to list).
In a message dated 12/27/99 6:36:43 AM Central Standard
Time,
robby@freesurf.ch
writes:
<< No luck yet, because the stock voltage is already in the
480V range and the
coils look very saturated. I came to the conclusion that a
GN coil pack may
be the best solution but I haven't found any salvage yard
carrying one. The
GN where not very popular with it's boxy style in Europe
;-) Hope to get a
pack soon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT >>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 19:12:27 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGT's
> Matthews wrote:
>
> > Rick
wrote:
> >
> > > I am currently running 18psi with the
550injectors and STOCK fuel pump. My
> > > lights on the
cyberdyne are sitting at FULL rich @ WOT. Hence, the
> > >
question "Do I REALLY need the HKS Cosmo pump?"
> >
>
> Impressive. Full rich at WOT is not surprising at lower RPMs.
Are you
> > saying it's full rich pushing 18psi at 6500+ RPM? I
think Roger did the
> > math and the stock pump falls short (I've CCed
him for clarification).
> > Can your 13Gs maintain 18psi to
redline? Are you experiencing any
> > detonation (assuming you
have a way to measure it)?
Rick wrote:
>
> YES. That
is the AMAZING THIING. Before with the stock fuel pump and
> stock
injector combo, the cyberdyne would show full rich (at approx 16psi
> or
so) until I reached about 5,000 rpms, then the lights would start
>
dropping off......that is when I just let off the throttle...
>
>
Now with the 550 injectors (and STOCK pump) at 18psi boost the cyberdyne
is
> reading FULL rich all the way to redline. (and yes it does hold
the 18psi
> ALL THE WAY to the redline). I know it sounds impossible
(and certainly
> controdictory to what others are seeing on their cars)
but I'm telling
> you.... it really holds the boost at a SOLID 18 and the
lights stay up at
> Full all the way through the gear.
>
>
That is why I am having a tough time bringing myself to install the $400
>
fuel pump.
>
> Maybe the 94's have a higher flowing
pump?
Roger wrote:
>
> First, full rich is not enough !
Sounds strange but is true, because ... how
> rich is rich ? 0.92V at the
O2 sensors is rich and the cyberdyne shows full rich
> since 0.86V. But
even at 0.92V there is too much knock. Increasing fuel more and
> more
reduces knock and at around 0.96V it was fully eliminated. An A/F gauge
is
> simply said ... not worth the money !
>
> Running 18 psi
with the described mods is possible. Fuel pressure is at 59 psi
> then and
fuel flow at 48gal/hr at 80% IDC. But here the IDC is very, very
>
important because at 59 psi the stock pump is only able to deliver ca.
33gal/hr.
> If IDC is only 60% then the fuel pump only has to deliver
37gal/hr. Upgrading
> the pump is necessary in any way. You may not got
any starvation or problems due
> to the fact that the pump is better as
written on the paper, but it is running
> at the edge of its life.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
Rick may actually be in the safe zone
due to his other mods, which
include intercooler upgrades (CarTech) and low
restriction exhaust
(eliminated/gutted precats, no cat, HKS cat-back).
With a cooler air
charge, less fuel would be required to avoid
detonation. But without a
way to monitor all of these variables, we
can't know for sure.
Interesting that 13Gs can sustain 18psi to
redline... why bother with
15Gs? Is the constant increase in lag really
worth the occasional
elevated temperatures?
- -Jim (still waiting for
that perfect performance formula before
upgrading - we're getting
close!)
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 16:39:06 -0500
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Still no boost
So I thought that changing my y-pipe (see previous post)
had caused me to
lose max boost, but I was wrong. There is definitely
something wrong. I
couldn't do anything to make the car make more than
stock boost. I checked
and double checked all vacuum hose connections
and they all seemed fine. I
took my manual boost controller off and
took it apart (extreme xbc) and it
seemed fine. I didn't know how to
check the boost solenoid, so what I did
was take the vacuum hose from the h
connector that goes to the boost
solenoid and just left it off. If I
have a correct understanding of how
this all works together, I should have
had in essence a wide open bleeder
valve. I should have been able to
hit the max boost of the turbos, and I
was able to exceed stock boost.
My max boost was 10.5 - 11 psi. I took an
air hose and connected it to
the vacuum hose that opens the waste gates and
applied pressure, the waste
gates opened. I applied pressure to the vacuum
hose out of the manifold
that pressurizes the BOV and I could feel the
diaphragm moving (and could
hear it). I didn't know how to check the BOV
for leaks. I thought
maybe the problem was with my new Y-pipe so I
reinstalled the stock one, same
problem exists.
I'm not sure what else it could be or where to go from
here.. Anyone have
any idea?
It seems a little coincidental that
this would happen the day and time that
I changed my y-pipe. I may have
driven the car for a time without the
vacuum hose from the y-pipe connected,
but I couldn't see how this could
cause damage.
TIA for any
help.
Mark
'93 RT TT ---- need boost.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 16:00:58 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Still no boost
> So I thought that changing my y-pipe (see
previous post) had caused me to
> lose max boost, but I was wrong.
There is definitely something wrong. I
> couldn't do anything to
make the car make more than stock boost. I checked
> and double
checked all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine. I
>
took my manual boost controller off and took it apart (extreme xbc) and
it
> seemed fine. I didn't know how to check the boost solenoid, so
what I did
> was take the vacuum hose from the h connector that goes to
the boost
> solenoid and just left it off. If I have a correct
understanding of how
> this all works together, I should have had in
essence a wide
> open bleeder valve. I should have been able to hit
the max boost of the
> turbos, and I was able to exceed stock
boost. My max boost was 10.5 - 11
> psi. I took an air hose
and connected it to the vacuum hose that opens the
> waste gates and
applied pressure, the waste gates opened. I applied pressure
> to
the vacuum hose out of the manifold that pressurizes the BOV and I could feel
the
> diaphragm moving (and could hear it). I didn't know how to
> check the BOV for leaks. I thought maybe the problem was with my
new Y-pipe so I
> reinstalled the stock one, same problem
exists.
Well, taking off the hose that leads from the H-connector to the
boost control solenoid does allow for maximum bleedoff of the boost pressure,
however that doesn't mean you'll get maximum boost. The bleeder line is
still restrictive and allows a lot of the boost to make its way to the
wastegates.
Plug the nipple on the Y-pipe. Hook the input to the
controller into the line that feeds the blowoff valve (it starts on the top of
the throttle body and goes to the BOV under the airflow sensor) with a
"T" fitting. Remove the H-connector and stock boost control
solenoid. Plug the line that goes from the boost solenoid to the rear
turbo. Put a "T" fitting in the lines to both wastegates and
connect the output side of the boost controller to the
"T".
There is a post of mine in the archives from about a month
or two back that describes in more detail how to hook this up.
> It
seems a little coincidental that this would happen the day and time that
>
I changed my y-pipe. I may have driven the car for a time without
the
> vacuum hose from the y-pipe connected, but I couldn't see how
> this could cause damage.
Here's another post I made which might
help shed some light on possible causes and fixes:
-
------------------------------------------------------------
>
3) We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses that lead to
> the
y-pipe; we also pressure tested the hoses that lead to
> the intercoolers;
everything checked out healthy/fine! No
> leaks were found and the
clamps were all tight!!
Hmm... How about the hoses that attach to
the throttle body? BOV line? Not sure how the Apex'i BOV works, but
the stock one requires pressure in the line to help work against the boost
pressure on the Y-pipe side to hold the valve closed. The valve opens due
to pressure differential, so if it is seeing no pressure on the input from
throttle body, it might pop open.
> So everything mechanical checked
out okay!!?? Which leads me
> to believe, "do I have an
electrical/ECU problem????" Any
> thoughts from you
guys?????
The boost control system is strictly mechanical in
nature. The only part that is electronically controlled is the maximum
boost pressure beyond where the wastegates are triggered mechanically. I
seem to recall that the mechanical resistance in the wastegates is 6 psi, so you
should at least see that. Since you aren't getting that (as far as we
know), then something in the intake tract or exhaust side of the turbos is not
working properly. I doubt a siezed turbo or other turbo malfunctions since
you aren't getting any boost. Even on one turbo you should still see
boost, although it will fall off very quickly.
> My next plan of
attack:
>
> 1) Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped
at .032 about
> 7,000 miles old); I'm wondering if my rear
plugs are real
> fouled up or faulty??? Due to how rich (HKS fuel
pump and
> 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to possible worn
valve
> seals?????? IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
> again; maybe I should NOT re-gap to .032 and leave
at
> stock/factory gap??????
I seriously
doubt this is the cause. If the car runs at all, you should still be able
to see at least some boost. On my Eclipse I had a serious problem where it
was only injecting fuel into 2 cylinders and I still got boost. If you
suspect worn valve seals, do a compression test to find out.
>
2) Compression test
:-)
> 3) replace my Apex'i bov
with stock bov. (worth a try)
Yes, do this. Or, just seal the
intake pipe where the BOV attaches to verify that this isn't leaking. Make
sure the line from the TB is attached to the stock BOV.
> 4) Is
there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be
> the cause of
this problem??????????? ( I highly
> doubt it) But Roger, you
mentioned before if I'm running
> too rich????
Highly
unlikely. If the car is burning any mixture at all, it should still have
enough exhaust gasses to spin the turbos. You mentioned that the turbos
seemed to be sucking in plenty of air when you looked at the compressor side, so
I think your turbos are working fine. The air just isn't making it into
the throttle body (or your boost gauge isn't working, although it sounds like
you can certainly feel that there's no boost).
> 5) Are my
Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's defective????? (I'm just
> reaching for
ideas!)
Doesn't match your symptom list.
> 6) don't know
what else to check???????????????????
I had exactly what you are
describing, only my car still made 6 psi. It was a disconnected stock BOV
line. You could hear the turbos sucking in air (the characteristic turbo
whine), but the BOV was just dumping the air into the pre-turbo side of the
intake. If your BOV vents to atmosphere, then it would be dumping out
there and your car would run very* rich (possibly causing the smoke you are
seeing - unburned fuel).
- ---------------------------------
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Dec 1999 00:48:11 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Still no boost
I just wish to be able to look at your car myself
because this kind of
diagnostic is very hard to do.
> and double
checked all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine.
So you made
everyting back to stock, right ?
> was able to exceed stock
boost. My max boost was 10.5 - 11 psi.
This is definitely not
enough. Even with the hose open you should easily
exceed 17 psi
!!
> I'm not sure what else it could be or where to go from
here.. Anyone have
> any idea?
Well, you must find the
hissing sound aorund the manifold. It really sounds
like something is broken
or it is also possible that you have enough carbon
buildup around the intake
valve seats that the cannot fully close.
If you say it started with the
new y-pipe then I can only think of the
intake gasket at the TB. it is either
broken or not fully mounted and
therefore pressure is leaking there. This
would explain the sound and the
pressure drop at the time after the
install.
Everything back to stock is what I told you some time ago and
you have to
eliminate EVERYTHING like the manual thing or any EBC. If you
still have a
hissing sound you can go further as the exhaust manifold in the
rear may
have a crack or the turbine housing is leaking. If you can hear the
sound at
idle, it is mostly not the compressor wheel housing and if it is
increasing
when reving it up then it's air flow related but it can simply be
a crack in
the brake or clutch hose and this will cause a boost drop as
well.
Very hard to determine what is wrong and you may need one looking
into your
car who's living closer to you.
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Dec 1999 01:00:20 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT's
> Rick may
actually be in the safe zone due to his other mods, which
> include
intercooler upgrades (CarTech) and low restriction exhaust
>
(eliminated/gutted precats, no cat, HKS cat-back). With a cooler
air
> charge, less fuel would be required to avoid detonation. But
without a
> way to monitor all of these variables, we can't know for
sure.
Yes, I agree but you know there is a fuel controller that is set to
rich but
it is probably not reach enough or just too rich. This cannot be
answered
without a logging device.
> Interesting that 13Gs can
sustain 18psi to redline... why bother with
> 15Gs? Is the constant
increase in lag really worth the occasional
> elevated
temperatures?
The exhaust plays an important rule here. Gutting the
precats ist where to
start ... just remember our dyno sessions where we
didn't benefit of a
downpipe nor exhaust as we all had the same precats
installed. With my
current (totally stock) exhaust I'm running 1.12 kg/cm2 to
the redline
without a problem but this is only possible with WI and some
overboost (1.18
kg/cm2) at the beginning.
Later
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Dec 1999 19:42:29 -0500
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Still no boost
Roger,
Thanks for the reply.. but I think you might
have me confused with someone
else. I don't have any hissing noise that
I am aware of, and returning the
whole system to stock wouldn't really get me
anywhere as the problem is I
can't make over stock boost. If I return
the car to stock then everything
will appear ok. My problem is that I
can't make it make more than stock boost.
I'm not really noticing a drop
off in boost, and I am able to hold ~8psi
all the way (actually increases
some as rpm rises). My problem is simply
the amount (psi) of boost I
can create (in any gear, at any rpm). Lastly,
I think you might have me
confused with someone else because today (err
last night for me) was the
first time I have ever posted anything boost
related to this list. I
have posted a few other times, but that was for
the getrag and a intermitten
shut off problem.
I am a little concerned if I am wrong here. If
you are not confusing me
with someone else then the problem could be a lot
more serious than I had
anticipated. Bad valve seals and cracks in
manifolds are not what I
thought would be causing this problem.
Fortunately if it is something
broken like that, I will be able to get it
repaired under warranty.
Thanks for your reply and I welcome any more
ideas as to the culprit.
TIA,
Mark
'93 RT TT -- a little
frightened now...
At 12:48 AM 12/28/99 +0100, R.G. wrote:
>I
just wish to be able to look at your car myself because this kind
of
>diagnostic is very hard to do.
>
>> and double checked
all vacuum hose connections and they all seemed fine.
>
>So you made
everyting back to stock, right ?
>
>> was able to exceed stock
boost. My max boost was 10.5 - 11 psi.
>
>This is definitely
not enough. Even with the hose open you should easily
>exceed 17 psi
!!
>
>> I'm not sure what else it could be or where to go from
here.. Anyone have
>> any idea?
>
>Well, you must
find the hissing sound aorund the manifold. It really sounds
>like
something is broken or it is also possible that you have enough
carbon
>buildup around the intake valve seats that the cannot fully
close.
>
>If you say it started with the new y-pipe then I can only
think of the
>intake gasket at the TB. it is either broken or not fully
mounted and
>therefore pressure is leaking there. This would explain the
sound and the
>pressure drop at the time after the
install.
>
>Everything back to stock is what I told you some time
ago and you have to
>eliminate EVERYTHING like the manual thing or any
EBC. If you still have a
>hissing sound you can go further as the exhaust
manifold in the rear may
>have a crack or the turbine housing is leaking.
If you can hear the sound at
>idle, it is mostly not the compressor wheel
housing and if it is increasing
>when reving it up then it's air flow
related but it can simply be a crack in
>the brake or clutch hose and this
will cause a boost drop as well.
>
>Very hard to determine what is
wrong and you may need one looking into your
>car who's living closer to
you.
>
>Good luck
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Dec 1999 02:23:25 EST
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
possible transfer case problem
This is my first post but its a
serious problem so here goes:
I noticed this afternoon, while
tooling around in 3rd, that if i floored
the gas the engine would just rev
right up to about 5000 rpm before id get
any acceleration. The turbo
spools but theres just nothing getting to the
wheels. Am i looking at
a transfer case problem? I just had it replaced
about 500 miles ago,
and im about due for and oil change. Any suggestions as
to problems
and/or solutions would be much appreciated.
Joe
'93 Stealth
RT/TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #367
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