--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #366
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
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Team3S Digest Sunday,
December 26 1999 Volume 01 : Number
366
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Dec 1999 21:53:18 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MSD DIS-4 pricing
Seems to be the best price.... good luck,
because you'll ned 3 of them for
our cars :(
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
> Need MSD DIS-4. Jegs has for $345.95.
> Any known better
pricing available?
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Date:
Sat, 25 Dec 1999 20:24:18 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MSD DIS-4 pricing
I believe the DIS-4 is a 3 or 4 channel
switchable unit. For our cars you
set it to 3 channel. I believe
our real problem lies with those coil packs
though.
Roger, weren't you
working on a replacement for those? Any luck?
Happy holidays
everyone!
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. [
SMTP:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent:
Saturday, December 25, 1999 2:53 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comCc:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: MSD DIS-4
pricing
Seems to be the best price.... good luck, because you'll ned 3
of
them for
our cars :(
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> Need MSD
DIS-4. Jegs has for $345.95.
> Any known better pricing
available?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 01:04:05 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Question (old post)
Catching up on all my old Team3S
mail . . .
"Basol, John"
wrote:
> As I'm
driving to work this morning in my commuter car (a 1st Gen
> DSM w/ a
manual boost controller), I commented to wife: "Damn I love how
>
this things pulls so strong to the redline." It hit me like a
>
rock...14B's!?! The first Gen DSMs use a single 14B turbo that on that
2.0
> liter four is capable of holding 17-18psi easy to the line.
Cost? Damn...I
> have seen those things going on the DSM trader for
100-200 a piece. Will
> those things bolt to our manifold?
Seems to me they might be a good
> intermediate step.
I don't think
this portion of your post ever got responded to ...
According to one
source, 14B is supposed to flow more than a 15G.
The 14B from the first-gen
Eclipse uses a TD05 housing, so it won't bolt
up to the stock
manifold.
Also, here's a quote from Jack T.
>something better
than the 13G offered direct from Mitsu, I spoke with
>Mitsu Heavy
Industries Turbocharger Division engineers and hashed some
>things out. I
was considering getting a 14B compressor wheel instead of the
>13G but
they said the 14B "don't flow for shit", and are not as good as
the
>13G I already had.
I assume this would have been 14B in a TD04
housing.
Maybe you've already decided by now, but I don't see any reason
to
hesitate on 15Gs. They have been proven time and time again, and
I've
heard no complaints about lag, nor did I notice lag on my friend's
car
with the 15Gs. Somebody a while back noted on the list that he
noticed
much ~less~ lag when he went to 13Gs ...
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle, WA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 01:23:55 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump voltage (old post)
"R.G."
wrote:
> > Here's what I think is the solution:
> > New
larger (how large?) wires direct from the battery to the fuel pump. This
>
> wire must be fused (how many amp?) and connected to a relay. If we put
the
> > relay close to the pump, I guess we can use the old fuel pump
voltage wire
> > to trigger the new relay.
>
> Sure, why
not. But you may short the pump relay that switches the voltage. The
>
larger pump I have is not hearable unless the relay switches and it runs
on
> battery voltage. The sound is like a whining in the rear but not a
big problem.
> People say that the Denso pumps are less noisier than the
Walbros and therefore
> a Walbro pump running at 14V when cruising around
would be very annoying :(
The Supra fuel pump has become a well-suggested
fuel pump upgrade
for our cars, given its impressive capabilities. Some
interesting information
from their website:
>From
http://www.mkiv.com>Under idle conditions
and cruising, the fuel pump ECU sends a reduced
>voltage output to the
fuel pump(9 volts), and the fuel pump operates in
"low
>speed". When engine sensors determine a high engine
load, the fuel pump
>ECU will send a full 12 volt signal to the fuel pump,
kicking it into "high
>speed" so that it will supply more
fuel.
>
>When modifications are made to the car to increase boost
pressure and
>engine breathing ability, some owners have experienced
detonation around
>4000 rpm, as the 2nd turbo builds boost and comes on
line. Usually, this
>detonation disappears above 5000 rpm. The
problem is, the fuel pump
>is still in "low speed" mode around
4000 rpm's, but the performance mod-
>ifications have increased fuel
demand to the point of "outrunning" the low
>speed
operation. By 5000 rpm, the fuel pump ECU has caught up
and
>switches to high speed operation and all detonation
disappears.
>
>There is an easy way around this. You can wire
a 12 volt signal directly to
>the fuel pump, effectively bypassing the
fuel pump ECU so that the fuel pump
>is always in high speed
operation. The TT Supra is one of only a few cars
>that has this
dual mode of fuel pump operation, whereas most cars always
>have 12 volts
to the fuel pump. This mod is completely safe.
[snip]
Question: With the Supra fuel pump installed in a 3000GT,
would it be
necessary to take measures to make the fuel pump run in 12V full
time?
Or will it automatically run full time in 12V when installed in my
car?
Read more at mkiv.com --> tech articles --> other mods --> 12V
fuel
pump mod.
Also, I'm interested in this possibility of running it
in 14V using the Kenne
Belle thingie. Safety first, ya know.
-
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 01:49:35 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chrysler DRB II scan tool for sale (old
post)
"R.G." wrote:
> > This scanner is $2,800
dealer cost. I will let mine go for $1,500. It is
> > basically
brand new. Comes with all the different cables to do both
> >
Chrysler and Mitsubishi.
>The TMO datalogger has a DRBII simulation
mode built in ... cost is $300 for
>OBDI systems (90-93 and some 94) !
Cable is the same for Stealth and 3k.
How can I check whether the TMO
will work on my '94?
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
94
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 01:54:33 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Injection (old post)
"R.G."
wrote:
> > much knock is present and the timing is getting
retarded. And therefore the
> > ECU is trying to adjust
boost.
>Almost true. But we all know that boost is calculated from the
airflow and
>therefore not real. Now the ECU sees a specific boost then
and starts to close
>the BS. This is because the system simply wants to
keep the boost at the stock
>level. Therefore it is closed long before we
really hit our desired boost
>levels. Of course this changes when using a
fuel controller!
So you're saying that the stock boost solenoid must be
"told" to
activate by the ECU (after it has calculated boost from
airflow)?
So the stock boost solenoid does not simply activate by
itself
mechanically at the preset stock boost levels?
Or do both of
these things work together?
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 01:58:30 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What does the "J" stand for?
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
> I've been
looking for rims recently and trying to match the dia. and width of
> the
stock rims. For '91 VR4 the stock rim is 17 x 8.5J - anybody know what
>
the "J" is for in this spec?
I've never been able to figure out
what it means, but I don't
think it is significant. Japanese wheel
manufacturs tend to either
put "J" or "JJ" after the
wheel width for ~all~ their wheels, or
they put nothing at all. I
wouldn't be concerned about it.
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle,
WA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:06:52 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Vr-4 launching (old post)
Merritt wrote:
> Ever
since, I've wondered if perhaps applying a little water or bleach to
> the
tires prior to a launch might help out. It would let me get a good
>
launch without having to do destroy my clutch and Getrag in the
process.
I know some of the DSM guys spray something called VHT
on
their tires before races. I had assumed this was something
to help them
gain traction, but I'm not sure.
Raising tire pressure is often
sufficient to get adequate wheelspin
at launch to protect your
drivetrain. I have video of Julian's VR4
(stock turbos/clutch) doing a
half-FISHTAIL launch on a dry track.
After that run all the DSM guys gave him
major props. :)
Low tire pressures increase risk of breakage
significantly. What
will really kill your clutch is repeated runs
without an adequate
cool-down period in between.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle, wA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:15:15 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: clutch MATERIALS
xwing wrote:
> There is
supposedly an O S Giken clutch out of Japan
> that uses multiple discs (2
or 3?) with plates, like many
> circle track designs, to increase torque
capacity. I
> think it may wear more quickly (more surfaces
being
> worn away, a 7.5" triple disc on my TA wore super
>
fast but that is an extreme example) and it costs ?$2000 or more?
>
I have wondered if it were actually manufactured by Tilton
> or another
USA manufacturer, but never searched out
> the info...
A local
speedshop has a project 93 VR4 in their shop which
just got TE37 wheels and
the Brembo 13" kit. He hasn't decided
which turbos to go with
(i.e. the shop hasn't decided how much
to rip him off yet).
Anyways,
he's supposedly getting some sort of clutch called
the "Red Claw"
which is a dual disc clutch like you are talking
about. Supposedly,
10-sec DSMs have used it to dump off
the rev-limiter. It's supposed to
be super-safe for the tranny.
It also runs a healthy $2300.
If you
want, I can try to find out more. Keep in mind I really
don't have much
respect for this shop or their tuner. I've quizzed
them on the usual
stuff, and they sound more clueless than the
kid who owns the car (and
believe me, he is really clueless).
This is just the resurrected Grim
Sleeper.
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle, wA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:24:31 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: injectors and questions
Rick D wrote:
> So, I guess
my question for the pro's out there is: Do you think I should
>
install the larger fuel pump even though it appears as though I do not
need
> it? Keep in mind that this pump cost approx $400 (It is the
HKS unit). So
> I do not want to waste the $400 if it is not totally
necc.
According to many calculations I've seen on this list, you
need
an upgraded fuel pump running anything higher than 15
psi.
According to Barry King:
>At 15 PSI you need up to 55 PSI
at the injectors. Here's where it starts to
>get interesting.
The stock fuel pump is rated at 180 lph @ 43 PSI assuming
>stock wiring
(ie roughly 12v to the pump). At 55 PSI the pump can deliver
>only
140 lph.
>
>So, assuming 15 PSI and a relatively stock VR4 making
roughly 340 HP,
>you need 128 lph from the pump. The stock pump
should be up to the task
>but just barely.
Hope that
helps,
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle, wA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:28:26 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Will different wheel offset change handling?
"Mohler,
Jeff" wrote:
> Mind you, if you widen track using spacers, you
MUST MUST MUST get longer
> wheel-studs.
I've been told that this
isn't necessary with only a 5mm spacer.
Your thoughts?
I'm sure it'll
just be best to play it safe.
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle,
wA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:31:23 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Are 2nd gen brake Calipers WIDER than 1st?
Mark
wrote:
> This is taken from
www.3000gt.com and applies to all years and
models as
> far as I can tell:
>
> "Stock size if
17" x 8.5"or 18" x 8.5". Centerline offset is
42mm"
Sounds like a correction might be in order.
My owner's
manual lists the wheel offset for my '94 as 46mm.
I ~really~ hope that
stock offset isn't 42mm because I'm going
to need every mm of clearance I can
get with the crazy wheel
setup which I custom ordered from Japan.
-
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, wA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:53:33 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Downforce
Chris Winkley wrote:
> I believe Veilside
is known for their cosmetic body kits. I checked out the
> web address you
posted and saw no claims for improved downforce from the
> rear spoilers
listed. For that matter, I didn't see any claims for improved
>
performance from any of their body kits. Do have access to some data you
can
> share?
Chris,
Julian just got his car back from the
shop with the new original Veilside
kit installed. I got to enjoy
looking at it as we drove all over town, and
when we got back we just sat in
the garage and stared.
The overall design of the kit is excellent (to say
nothing of the build quality
which was absolutely superb, according to the
body shop owner). Veilside
is well known in Japan for taking aerodynamics
very seriously.
The intercooler openings are ~much~ larger, and the
middle inner-mouth
"walls" also direct air towards them. The
overall front end appears to be
more aerodynamic. The side skirts get
rid of the fake holes. The sideskirts
also flare out at the bottom
which looks breathtaking, in my opinion. The
entire kit is much lower
to the ground, and getting rid of active aero is a
given.
The
rear spoiler adds significant downforce. It is adjustable to two
(possibly
three) different angles of attack. The highest angle of
attack appears to be
higher than the stock 91-96 VR4 rear wing (I'll have to
measure next chance
I get), and the total surface area is much larger than
the stock wing. With
the carbon fiber wing and the stock active aero
gone, there are significant
weight saving to be had.
I'm sure Julian
will have more to say (once he gets back from Singapore).
He's not just the
first VR4 in the US with the new Veilside kit. With brand
new paint,
18" Challenges, x-drilled rotors, circular taillights, and 2.5"
drop,
he has in my opinion the most impressive looking 3000GT I've ever
seen.
- --Errin Humphrey :)
Seattle, wA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 13:27:14 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: buying parts via INTERNET
I apologize for the non-tech post,
but...
My Tour/Sport exhaust dash switch broke last week when I bumped
it
reaching for the rear wiper switch, and I'd like to get a
replacement
via the net. What's the best way to do this? Does
Tall. Mitsu handle
such requests? What's their contact info? Is
there a way I can look up
the part number for the switch? Thank
you!
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 14:37:36 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Vr-4 launching (old post)
Speaking or tires/pressure and all..A friend of
mine has a race car and
he sprays some stuff on the tires to make them softer
and so they stick
well. I'll get the recepie if you guys want. It's like a
mix or brake
fluid and some other stuff.
Matt
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Dec 1999 17:12:41 -0500
From: Jay Price Stump <
jstump@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine for 91 R/T Turbo
I am looking at having my engine rebuilt. Does
anyone know of quality
rebuilders in the Baltimore/ Washington area. How many
$$$ should I be
looking to spend for a stock rebuild and a moderate
performance
rebuild. I figure if I have the interenal now I can always
upgrade the
bolt- ons. Would I be better off getting a short/long block
from
Misubishi than getting my engine rebuilt. Thanks for your
comments/help.
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