--
From:
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(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #360
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
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Team3S Digest Friday,
December 17 1999 Volume 01 : Number
360
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Dec 1999 12:00:46 -0600
From: "Trevor Jones" <
trevor_jones@lacrosse-net.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger & Burschur BOV
Does anyone know if the TMO
Datalogger will work with a 93' VR4? TMO's
website says that because
the connector changed to an OBD-II style it will
not work. Is anyone
using this with a 93' or newer VR4, or know of an
adapter?
I called
Burschur Racing today. Their recommendations for upgrades included
a
custom BOV from a 1st gen talon and they also recommended their custom
3"
exhaust. They said this would allow me to run 16-18 psi on premium
pump
without upgrading my fuel delivery system and without detonation.
This
boost level seems somewhat high to me. My upgrades so far include
Apex
AVC-R and K+N FIPK. Everything else is stock. Does anyone
out their have
experience with either of these parts? Your input is
greatly appreciated.
tia,
tj
93 3k VR4
K+N FIPK
Apex
AVC-R
2nd Getrag Tranny
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is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:16:09 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger & Burschur BOV
> Does anyone know if
the TMO Datalogger will work with a 93' VR4? TMO's
> website says
that because the connector changed to an OBD-II style it will
> not
work. Is anyone using this with a 93' or newer VR4, or know of an
>
adapter?
Roger Gerl uses it with his '93. Check your diagnostic
connector. It is under
the dash by the fuse box by the driver's left
leg. The OBDII style connector
has 16 pins (see
http://www.obdii.com/connector.html)
while the TMO (from
looking at their web site) fits10 pin
connectors.
> I called Burschur Racing today. Their
recommendations for upgrades included
> a custom BOV from a 1st gen talon
and they also recommended their custom 3"
> exhaust. They said this
would allow me to run 16-18 psi on premium pump
> without upgrading my
fuel delivery system and without detonation. This
> boost level
seems somewhat high to me.
Only datalogging will tell for sure!
-
--
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:50:33 -0600
From: "Trevor Jones" <
trevor_jones@lacrosse-net.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: TMO Datalogger & ECU Plug
<<Does anyone know if the
TMO Datalogger will work with a 93' VR4? TMO's
website says that
because the connector changed to an OBD-II style it will
not work. Is
anyone using this with a 93' or newer VR4, or know of
an
adapter?>>
At lunch I checked my ECU plug. My 93'
has the 10pin style and not the new
OBD-II style. Thanks for everyone's
input.
tj
93' 3kVR4
K+N FIPK
Apex AVC-R
2nd Getrag
Tranny
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:32:32 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Electrical problem
Hey Everyone,
Got some kind
of electrical problem. After driving around for an hour, I
turned the
car off; came back in 3 hours and the car was dead (the dome light
was
barely lit...real dull). So, I jumped the car with another car and it
started easily. I dont' get it? I have a new battery in
there!
I drove around for another hour and reached
home (by the way, my SRS
light was on the during the whole hour - this is
the first for me to have the
SRS stay on). So when I finally got home
and parked, I turned the car off
and tried to re-start......NO LUCK....it's
DEAD again. So I popped the hood
again, checked to see if my insulated
hood liner was somehow making contact
with the battery terminals...all
checked out okay. THEN I HEARD THIS TICKING
SOUND!!! coming from
the fuse box area; I removed the cover and isolated the
TICKING sound to the
Rad. Fan (LO) / Vent.Rad (BAS) relay switch in the fuse
box. Ticking
like crazy!!!! Then I went to open my driver's side door and
then the
ticking stopped after I opened the driver's door.
So, I guess I need a new Rad. Fan (LO) / Vent. Rad (BAS) Relay switch???
Or maybe a new alternator? Any ideas from you guys???
Thanks
in advance,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:39:44 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Electrical problem
Ahmed...
Have you cleaned and
tightened the posts/terminals?
A little loose, or a little dirt, and
you'll have the exact symptoms you
describe.
BTW...are you sure the
ticking isn't from your Boost Controller solenoid?
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.com [
mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday,
December 16, 1999 3:33 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Electrical problem
Hey Everyone,
Got some kind of electrical problem. After driving around for an
hour,
I
turned the car off; came back in 3 hours and the car was dead
(the dome
light
was barely lit...real dull). So, I jumped the car
with another car and it
started easily. I dont' get it? I have a
new battery in there!
I drove around for another
hour and reached home (by the way, my SRS
light was on the during the whole
hour - this is the first for me to have
the
SRS stay on). So when I
finally got home and parked, I turned the car off
and tried to
re-start......NO LUCK....it's DEAD again. So I popped the
hood
again, checked to see if my insulated hood liner was somehow making
contact
with the battery terminals...all checked out okay. THEN I
HEARD THIS
TICKING
SOUND!!! coming from the fuse box area; I
removed the cover and isolated
the
TICKING sound to the Rad. Fan (LO) /
Vent.Rad (BAS) relay switch in the fuse
box. Ticking like
crazy!!!! Then I went to open my driver's side door and
then the
ticking stopped after I opened the driver's door.
So, I guess I need a new Rad. Fan (LO) / Vent. Rad (BAS) Relay
switch???
Or maybe a new alternator? Any ideas from you guys???
Thanks in advance,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Dec 1999 22:12:20 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: VPC, GCC
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I am trying to install a VPC but do not have the
wiring loom.
I have a picture attached of the wires on my VPC and a 1991 GTO
ECU =
scematic.
I just need to know what wires it goes into on the
ECU.
If anyone has a VPC can you please look at you harness and see in
=
conjunction with the scematic what wires it is wired into.
Any help
would help me ALOT!!
Also, the GCC, what is the best way to tune it. Does
anyone know what =
A/F or CO levels I should have at each RPM?
Finally
with the VPC, I need to know what kind of chi it has, is there =
an easy way
to check and can you tell if you look at it??
Thanks to anyone who can
help.
No one down here in New Zealand knows anything about
them!
Henry=20
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<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>I am trying to install a VPC but do not =
have
the=20
wiring loom.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>I have a picture attached of the wires =
on my
VPC=20
and a 1991 GTO ECU
scematic.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2>I just need to know what wires it goes =
into on
the=20
ECU.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2>If anyone has a VPC can you please look =
at you=20
harness
and see in conjunction with the scematic what wires it is
wired=20
into.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would help me
=
ALOT!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Also, the GCC, what is the best way to =
tune
it.=20
Does anyone know what A/F or CO levels I should have at each
=
RPM?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Finally with the VPC, I need to know =
what kind
of=20
chi it has, is there an easy way to check and can you tell if you look
=
at=20
it??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks to anyone who can
=
help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2>No one down here in New Zealand knows =
anything=20
about
them!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2>Henry </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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-
------=_NextPart_000_0080_01BF48DB.C9783800--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Dec 1999 05:21:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VPC, GCC
Henry,
CO content in exhaust gas is directly
related to
air-fuel ratio, not RPM. However, the relationship is
not
linear. You can interpolated between the following
A/F values to get
intermediate %CO content.
%CO A/F
0.1
14.71
0.3 14.41
0.5 14.27
1.0 14.10
2.0
13.76
3.0 13.37
4.0 12.99
5.0 12.63
6.0
12.24
7.0 11.88
8.0 11.53
9.0 11.15
10.0
10.78
Jeff Lucius - 1992 Stealth TT (modified)
StealthMan92@yahoo.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: B Collett
To: Brad Bedell ; Team 3S Tech
List
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 3:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: VPC,
GCC
... snip ...
Also, the GCC, what is the best way to tune it.
Does
anyone know what A/F or CO levels I should have at
each RPM?
...
snip ...
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:48:08 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger & Burschur BOV
> I called Burschur Racing
today. Their recommendations for upgrades included
> a custom BOV
from a 1st gen talon and they also recommended their custom 3"
>
exhaust. They said this would allow me to run 16-18 psi on premium pump
>
without upgrading my fuel delivery system and without detonation.
Of
course, if I also would sell my own stuff then I'd also recommend it, LOL
!
The BOV is ok and it works better than our stock ones (plastic
crap).
Their custom exhaust is absolutely unknown and David doesn't know
a lot about
the V6 as he's the mister DSM :) I'm sure noone of those guys did
knew that the
Datalogger works on our cars (and it does, hehe). You'll need
nothing additional
the Datalogger just plugs in and works.
Knock
should be measured at contignous boost from 3000 to 6000 rpm. The danger
area
starts at 4850rpm and goes up the way. Usually, at 15psi, knock starts
around
5500 on the 5 speed. The dyno runs of the 2nd gen cars (Stealths)
in
Switzerland showed that also those cars start to retard the timing with 15
psi.
This happens when knock rises above a summary of 11-15.
You can
go with the exhaust but you should start with gutting the precats,
replacing
the dp and then the cat-back.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #360
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