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From:
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(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #356
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest Sunday,
December 12 1999 Volume 01 : Number
356
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Dec 1999 19:12:38 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT meter
From the view of functionality I'd get the Apexi ones
with peak hold
function. But they are damn expensive and only in the larger
size available
(I guess 60mm)
I have two AutoMeter ones (still not
installed). The probe looks very good
and even the wires are braided. They
come with a small box with the
necessary electronics. The meter themselfs are
not that great (I have the
Ultra Lite) but do there work (I tested it with
the heater gun, LOL)
For the position, availability and probe size is
what counts. Directly
before the turbo flange is the way to go as there you
would not create a
restriction as well as you'll cover all gases. Temps
should not go above
800°C I'd say.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
> I'm looking for an EGT meter, I want feedback regarding brand,
quality and
> price.
>
> What's best, digital or
analog?
>
> Also, is the best location in the rear exhaust manifold?
What temperature
> can I expect in the rear exhaust?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Dec 1999 19:20:08 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankshaft pulley
Why do you want to change the pulley ! Keep the
stock one if it is not
damaged.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> Can
anyone give me some advice on how to change the crankshaft
> pulley. Where
can I get a tool like manual shows or is there another
> way to get it
off? Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Dec 1999 12:26:57 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
clutch MATERIALS
Kevlar stands up to heat well, supposedly better
than
standard organic clutch material. I think Kevlar has
a lower
coefficient of friction than standard organics,
so can slip more with same
pressure plate loading.
I have used Kevlar clutch disc with same
pressure
plate on my 79 TA (10 second 3500 lb car with
slicks) and found
the Kevlar version slipped, so had
to go back to regular organic
disc.
Ceramic puck clutches have very high heat capability,
high
holding power, but have very harsh engagement
characteristics; they usually
won't slip on a normal
street takeoff, but tend to grab/judder, so hard to
take
off gracefully. The on-off nature of ceramic type
clutch makes
it have a high instant shock load which
imparts more stress to the driveline
(transmission,
transfer case etc.) so could break parts more than
an
organic or Kevlar unit which will smoothly slip while
building up
torque transfer until lockup.
RPS is hoping to utilize carbon fiber,
which has very
high heat stability, and "adjustable" friction
coefficients,
to build a clutch that allows higher holding power
while
still slipping smoothly like a regular organic--thus
their
"Carbon Claw" series, still in somewhat experimental
phase
on learning curve. The first RPS carbon clutches
for our cars slipped
for some people (not me) due to defect; they
replaced disc for free--the
replacement I got has carbon
on one side, organic with metal weave on the
other;
I haven't yet had chance to try it.
At least RPS is doing
some
research into a better solution for us than saying "get
the
ceramic puck trans/xfer case destroyer, tough luck buddy",
but
the cost of this is some people having remove/replace
costs for RPS...some
have even gotten paid for R&R
though. I doubt most other companies
would do that!
When I ran a Centerforce (with only mild mods) and
it
slipped within 5000 mostly winter miles, Centerforce Co
told me to take
a hike, no replacement or restitution at all...
I'd prefer an organic,
unless a strong enough holding
clutch was not available, then puck/ceramic is
go-to
choice.
There is supposedly an O S Giken clutch out of
Japan
that uses multiple discs (2 or 3?) with plates, like many
circle
track designs, to increase torque capacity. I
think it may wear more
quickly (more surfaces being
worn away, a 7.5" triple disc on my TA wore
super
fast but that is an extreme example) and it costs ?$2000 or more?
I
have wondered if it were actually manufactured by Tilton
or another USA
manufacturer, but never searched out
the info...
Jack
Tertadian
nketo wrote:
> any know the thermal/physical
characteristics of
> KEVLAR vs. CEREMIC clutches? technical
details;
> wear, high-temp stability, glazing, holding
> power that
each has over other.
> -Noble
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web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 Dec 1999 10:46:08 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Time/Weight
formula?
All things being equal, if a cars weight is reduced by
100lbs
what is the expected 1/4 mile time reduction?
Is there a simple
formula to figure this?
Tks Arty
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 Dec 1999 10:38:41 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Time/Weight formula?
I bet there's a formula, only it's probably
a mile long and it would take Einstein to
figure it out! Stockish cars will
usually pick up about a tenth. Cars on the extreme of
weight and horsepower
can pick up anywhere from .06-.15. I'd venture to say that you'd
probably be
in the low gain side. I would think that 1000 HP wouldn't have too hard of
a
time motivating 3800lbs! You also have to worry about where the weight was
removed from
because that affects the car's launch and weight
transfer.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.86@107.212.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech
92 GMC
Typhoon
13.90@97.8 0-60 5.09 Gtech
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
> All things being
equal, if a cars weight is reduced by 100lbs
> what is the expected 1/4
mile time reduction?
> Is there a simple formula to figure this?
>
Tks Arty
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 Dec 1999 10:32:40 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Time/Weight formula?
The following formulae are approximations and will
give you a ballpark idea
of what you might expect in an ideal
situation.
HP = weight (lbs) / (ET (seconds) / 5.825)^3
-
-or-
HP = weight (lbs) * (trap speed (MPH) / 234)^3
So in your
case, you'll need to have some idea of HP. You could also come
up with
a factor by substituting 1 for HP and 100 for weight which would
give you the
improvement per HP/100 lbs.
These
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
Aso8@aol.com> Sent: Sunday,
December 12, 1999 8:46 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc:
Aso8@aol.com> Subject: Team3S:
Time/Weight formula?
>
>
> All things being equal, if a cars
weight is reduced by 100lbs
> what is the expected 1/4 mile time
reduction?
> Is there a simple formula to figure this?
> Tks
Arty
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 Dec 1999 12:46:19 EST
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject: Team3S: apex
avc-r installation
I just started to install the apex avc-r and have a
number of questions
dealing with the wiring into the electronic control
unit. Members previous
experience would be very helpful and greatly
appreciated.
1. Do I need to take the ECU unit out or can I wire it in
place from the
drivers side?
2. Do the wiring harnesses need to be
removed from the ECU, do they just pull
out, or is there a clip I need to
release. Can I release the harnesses with
the unit in place or do I have to
remove the screws that hold the ECU in
place before I can release the
harnesses?
3. The Apex instructions on page 16 shows ECU wiring diagrams.
None appear to
match up with our cars. The shop manual shows harness number
C-52, C- 53, and
C- 54 going into the ECU. Looking at the ECU in place from
the drivers side
would the upper right hand corner of
harness:
C-52 be Wire #1
C-53 be wire #
51
C-54 be wire # 101
If this is incorrect could I have the correct orientation
to these wires
4. With the correct orientation to the wires established,
which harness and
wire # and color would I connect the following wires from
the avc-r to:
a. Apex Red
wire to unknown location of IG
power
b. Apex purple wire to
unknown location of RPM signal or Injector
signal.
What are my advantages and disadvantages with the RPM or the
signal
injector?
c. Apex green wire
to unknown location of ground
d. Apex black wire to unknown location of
ground
e. Apex gray wire to
unknown location of throttle
signal
f. Apex white wire to
unknown location of speed signal
5. Does the old solenoid valve need to be
disconnected from it's electrical
source? Should the inlets be cap off, left
open or connected to each other if
I am to leave it connected to it's
electrical source?
6. Does it matter if I mount the new Solenoid horizontal
or vertical? Where
is a good place to mount it.
7. Should I attach the
pressure sensor vacuum hose to the fuel vacuum line,
or will any vacuum line
do? Where is a good place to mount it.
8. Where is the best (easiest) place
to snake the new harness into the engine
compartment?
Thanks for the
help
Bob 91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:14:32 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Time/Weight formula?
In a message dated 12/12/99 9:49:27 AM Central
Standard Time,
Aso8@aol.com
writes:
<< All things being equal, if a cars weight is reduced
by 100lbs
what is the expected 1/4 mile time reduction?
Is there a simple
formula to figure this?
Tks Arty >>
Hi
Arty,
This takes me back to the
Buick Grand National days...Traditionally, I
thought it was the rule of
thumb that for every 100lbs. you reduce you cut
off about a tenth of a
second in your 1/4 mile times (granted all other
conditions/variables are
consistently the same/equal; temperature of day,
temperature of car, tires,
same launching techniques (rpm's, boost,
feathering/dropping clutch,
etc.). So if you reduce a total weight of
500lbs...chances
are you'll cut off a half second from your 1/4 mile times.
Anyone else agree or disagree??
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92
VR4
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End
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