--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #353
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Wednesday,
December 8 1999 Volume 01 : Number
353
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 13:59:39 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
I'm not sure if
this is completely related or not, but I've been meaning to
ask you guys
about this:
In the last 6 months, I'm pretty sure the tendency of my car
to wheel hop
(only in 1st gear) has gone up significantly. It's been a
gradual thing,
but I just don't remember it hopping as much this time last
year. It
doesn't help living the PNW where it's almost always wet in
the winter.
What I'm seeing(when I'm taking off from a stop and trying to
go fast):
Dry:
Slip the clutch a bit and ease into the throttle
gradually with it
ending up almost floored by 4000RPM or so. Sometimes
looses traction on
less-than-perfect roads, but I can usually get at least
close to floored.
Completely flooring it right after the clutch is out will
lose traction and
get wheel hop at about 5300RPM
Wet(damp, not
puddles):
Same as dry, except can't get it anywhere near floored in 1st
until
6500RPM (when I'm shifting anyway). Any sudden changes in
throttle position
or getting the throttle above about 3/4 floored before
6000RPM loses
traction and I get skull-rattling wheel hop! As soon as I
notice it, I
either lay off the throttle until I get traction or just grab
2nd (depending
on what RPM I'm at). The wheel hop is so bad that I'm
pretty sure I'd break
something if I let it go for more than a few
seconds.
What ever happened to just spinning the wheels? I mean, my
car *never* just
spins the wheels anymore when I lose traction (not that I
try too often), it
just goes from acceleration to crazy wheel hopping!
The only significant
changes I've made in my car in the last year are wider,
better tires (245
Firehawks), and a K&N (which the butt-dyno doesn't
think did very much).
What's going on here? I know I've seen FWD cars
spin tires without hopping,
so is this a 3000GT thing, or is there something
going out on my car? Would
this indicate that my front struts aren't
providing enough resistance to
movement and the springs are just bouncing
around, causing wheel hop? Or
something else?
Thanks!
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 64,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 16:19:49 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
Well I know it's not just
a 3000GT thing, because my 94 eclipse did the
same. Mostly in wet
weather because it was hard to spin the tires in that
(it was only a GS,
non-turbo). But when I got the 3000, helll it was easy
to spin those
suckers :). But sometimes I'll get to bouncing on a take-off
as
well.
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 16:26:17 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
> Well I know
it's not just a 3000GT thing, because my 94
> eclipse did the same.
Mostly in wet weather because it was
> hard to spin the tires in that (it
was only a GS, non-turbo).
> But when I got the 3000, helll it was easy to
spin those
> suckers :). But sometimes I'll get to bouncing
>
on a take-off as well.
Be careful with this. Wheel hop is a great
way to snap driveshafts. The 3/S shafts are stronger than the DSM ones (in
which older shafts snap a lot during wheel hop), but when the wheels grab during
hopping there are enormous forces applied to the driveshafts.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 14:46:37 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
(semi-long post)
As you may
recall, I attended an SCCA High Performance Car Clinic this
past
Saturday. It was the second time I have been on a track with a
street car, both
times with my '91 VR4, and it was tremendous fun. The
actual track time
amounted to about a miniscule 36 minutes over 3 sessions,
but it was only $60.
It was supposed to be 45 minutes of driving but session
lengths were reduced due
to a track accident that required the ambulance to
be gone about an hour.
While driving home through 120 miles of back
roads, I noticed my brakes were
thumping and it was getting worse. I
didn't notice this on the track. Before
the 3rd session, I checked my
front pads and they appeared to be about 2/3
used. I figured worn pads
might be the culprit. No problem I thought. I took
2 extra sets
of pads to the track so I'd just replace them in the morning.
Well, I
still had adequate pad life left. The problem turned out to be a
crack
in my cross-drilled rotor. The crack was on the outboard side of
the rotor,
through a cross-drilled hole closest to the outside diameter of
the rotor. It
extended all the way to the edge of the rotor and also
extended inward radially
toward the center about the same distance. It
was not a surface crack as the
crack was visible on rotor's edge to be all
the way through the outboard side of
the rotor.
Allright, I've kept
you in suspense long enough. These are KVR cross-drilled
rotors and KVR
semi-metallic Carbon Fiber pads. I installed them about 9
months
ago. They were used exclusively on the street until the 36
minutes of track
time this past Saturday. However, I do regularly brake
abruptly from 110 - 60
mph about 2-4 times a week on the way home from
work. Two weekends ago while
cleaning out the brake dust from the
holes, I noticed that all holes had what
appeared to be hairline surface
cracks all oriented radially from the center.
I've been very happy with
the KVR pads. They stop very well after you heat them
up. The
first one or two stops aren't so great though. They seemed to last
well
too, through 9 months and 50 miles of track time. My buddy with a 92
VR4
installed new BBQ treated KVR pads for the same event. His looked
barely used
after the 2nd session. Also they do dust more than stock
pads. For $63 a set,
these are great pads!
The rotors are
another story though. KVR will replace rotors within 2 months
of
purchase, or will prorate them up to a year. Most likely, the
problem isn't a
KVR issue, but rather an issue of cross-drilled rotors since
I've heard similar
stories about other cross-drilled rotors.
Regardless, I think I will try the
Porterfield non-cross-drilled,
cryogenically treated rotors for my next set.
Regards,
Ken
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 14:51:16 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
Maybe your
struts aren't damping as well as they did a year ago. How old
are
they?
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts
has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 17:00:49 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
>
>While driving home
through 120 miles of back roads, I noticed my brakes were
>thumping and it
was getting worse. <snip> The problem turned out to be
a
crack
>in my cross-drilled rotor. The crack was on the outboard
side of the rotor,
>through a cross-drilled hole closest to the outside
diameter of the rotor.
It
>extended all the way to the edge of the
rotor and also extended inward
radially
>toward the center about the
same distance. <snip> I think I will try
the
>Porterfield non-cross-drilled, cryogenically treated rotors for my
next set.
>
Good choice. Run stock pads on the street and Porterfield
R4 pads on the
track, and it oughta work just fine for you.
Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are just for show. On our cars, they
break
if you use them hard.
It would help if you'd run some
cooling air in there. You probably got
those KVR rotors up to about 1300
degrees. The Porterfield rotors will be
OK, but such high temps wear out pads
quickly.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 15:10:43 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
I've been very happy with the KVR
pads. They stop very well after you heat them
up. The first one
or two stops aren't so great though. They seemed to last
well too,
through 9 months and 50 miles of track time. My buddy with a 92
VR4
installed new BBQ treated KVR pads for the same event. His looked
barely used
after the 2nd session. Also they do dust more than stock
pads. For $63 a set,
these are great pads!
The rotors are
another story though. KVR will replace rotors within 2 months
of
purchase, or will prorate them up to a year. Most likely, the
problem isn't a
KVR issue, but rather an issue of cross-drilled rotors since
I've heard similar
stories about other cross-drilled rotors.
Regardless, I think I will try the
Porterfield non-cross-drilled,
cryogenically treated rotors for my next set.
- ---
1) I think
i'll be buying those pads!
2) I belive, that crossdrilling creates
weak spots in the rotors, as the rotor
heat cycles at different rates around
the holes. I firmly recomend slotting, as
it doesnt remove as much
thermal mass, and doesnt affect how the
metal
grows/shrinks.
Anyone know a place in the Bay-Area that
will slot a rotor for me?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Dec 1999 00:09:05 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Heads, Valves
Ok, call be the lucky guy :) I'm getting an 91 motor
(92'Stealth TT, US) to
part out as it had the belt slipping and damaged all
the valves (at least).
I'm getting the heads for free (hehe) as I helped the
guy to install a new
engine (he paid $2700 from a car who had a rollover with
15k miles) and they
are not sellable as they need some work on the valves,
adjusters and maybe
more.
Questions :
- - Are there any lightweight
valves available. Where ? how much ?
- - Cams : Any idea about hotter cams
?
- - what are the stock 9b turbos with about 28k miles on them, mint
condition,
worth ? The guy needs some money out of the additional costs he
had but they
would not be expensive. Of course oil lines, water pump and some
other parts
may be available as well but I have first to check the engine
puzzle
(everything is in boxes, gulp)
Thanks for any
input,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 15:30:42 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
Cross-drilled and slotted rotors
are just for show. On our cars, they break
if you use them hard.
-
---
Then how do you solve the gassing problem?
Im not talking
OVERLY slotting a rotor btw..
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 15:36:23 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Matt Jannusch [
mailto:MAJ@BigCharts.com]
>
>
> sometimes I'll get to bouncing on a take-off as well.
>
> Be
careful with this. Wheel hop is a great way to snap
>
driveshafts.
Yeah, definitely! I cringe every time it
happens, and it is quite rare when
I'm careful (99.5% of the time). I
usually end up feathering the throttle
and "feeling" for the edge
as I depress the throttle. If I feel it start to
slip, I back off
slightly. Maybe I'm just remembering fondly, but it seems
that point
where things start to slip is sooner than last year...that's what
bothers
me:)
> From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
>
Maybe your struts aren't damping as well as they did a year
> ago.
How old are they?
I'm wondering the same thing...how much mileage do you
typically get out of
the stock struts/shocks? I've figured I'll just do
the whole suspension
(well, struts, shocks, and springs anyway:) when the
stock ones go south,
but I thought I'd get more than 65,000 miles outta
them. My thinking is
that I should be able to take the stock
struts/springs off as a unit and
replace them with aftermarket ones and not
have to fool around with spring
compressors and stuff (most aftermarket
springs aren't compressed when not
loaded, but the stock ones are,
right?)
- --Erik
P.S.
The rears seem to be fine, so
maybe I could put new struts/lowering
springs on the front and leave the rear
stock:) I wonder how that'd handle?
It'd almost look like an old
American muscle car with a jacked-up rear end:)
That'd be a sight...for about
10 minutes, and then I'd have to shoot myself
for looking like a
rice-boy-wannabe-castmember-of-Grease.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 17:38:53 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
>Cross-drilled and slotted
rotors are just for show. On our cars, they break
>if you use them hard.
>
>Then how do you solve the gassing problem?
>Im not talking
OVERLY slotting a rotor btw..
Get air flow to them, I guess. I didn't
know gassing was a problem.
Having BROKEN two slotted rotors at the hub,
I'll take gassing problems any
day, whatever they are.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 16:01:31 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cracked cross-drilled rotor
Hey Rich;
When are you going to get
some pics of your brake coolong system available
to those of us who're
interested?? Weak links with fixes need sites to
inform
:-)
Darc
snip
>Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are just
for show. On our cars, they break
>if you use them hard.
>
>It
would help if you'd run some cooling air in there. You probably
got
>those KVR rotors up to about 1300 degrees.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 16:22:56 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
> When are you going to get
some pics of your brake coolong system available
> to those of us who're
interested?? Weak links with fixes need sites to
> inform :-)
When
will one of our list entrepeneurs begin making and selling front
brake
backing plates with hose barbs welded on so one could attach cooling
hoses?
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a
3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 19:29:22 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: What
does the "J" stand for?
I've been looking for rims recently and
trying to match the dia. and width of
the stock rims. For '91 VR4 the stock
rim is 17 x 8.5J - anybody know what
the "J" is for in this
spec?
Thanks.
Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 16:34:31 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
"Gross,
Erik" wrote:
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
From: Matt Jannusch [
mailto:MAJ@BigCharts.com]
>
>
> > > sometimes I'll get to bouncing on a take-off as
well.
> >
> > Be careful with this. Wheel hop is a great
way to snap
> > driveshafts.
>
> I'm wondering the
same thing...how much mileage do you typically get out of
> the stock
struts/shocks? I've figured I'll just do the whole suspension
>
(well, struts, shocks, and springs anyway:) when the stock ones go
south,
> but I thought I'd get more than 65,000 miles outta them. My
thinking is
> that I should be able to take the stock struts/springs off
as a unit and
> replace them with aftermarket ones and not have to fool
around with spring
> compressors and stuff (most aftermarket springs
aren't compressed when not
> loaded, but the stock ones are,
right?)
I guess between 40,000 - 80,000 miles depending on how harsh the
roads and
environment are where you live. Here in So. Cal, I replaced
my struts at 80K
and could of done it earlier since they were so
noisy/clunky. I also installed
Eibach Pro springs at the same
time. The front springs are under load so you do
need a spring
compressor. I just removed the assemblies, and took them to a
tire
shop. They swapped the hardware onto the new struts & springs for
$40.
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3
for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Dec 1999 18:43:38 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
>
>When are you going to
get some pics of your brake coolong system available
>to those of us
who're interested?? Weak links with fixes need sites to
>inform
:-)
>
I'm still fiddling with the scoops. Now that I lowered the car,
my scoops
hit on every road bump. I'm trying to figure out how to build
a
spring-loaded scoop that will be driven up when it hits an obstacle,
then
springs back. Now, they just rip off on driveways and dips in the road.
I
may remove the entire panel under the fascia and try something else.
Actually, it's a very boss scoop -- it's black, round, plastic, about 3
in.
dia., and leads to a 2x2 in. square opening. The 2.5 in. hose fits in
there
very nicely, and the scoop fits right into the 4x6 openings under
the
fascia. I found them in the plumbing section at Menard's for about
$1.50
each. They look mean sitting under there. Alas, they hang
down too a
little too far for my car. I have a set of white clothes dryer
vents that
might work -- I'll try those next. The very best scoops were some
huge 2x8
plastic gutter downspouts that I found at Payless Cashways, but
they
protruded down too far, and I ripped them off in the grass at
Blackhawk
Farms.
In general, my brake cooling system consists
of:
1. Removed front inner fender well to promote air flow.
2. Removed
backing plates from front rotors to promote air flow.
3. Scoops under front
bumper (centered over 4x6 openings under fascia)
4. 2.5 in. hose from scoop
to middle of the wheel (I gave up trying to fit
it into the caliper opening,
because if it slips it tears the halfshaft
boot). The hose is tie-wrapped to
the lower stabilizing arm.
5. Water hoses run to rotors from the windshield
washer pump. I squirt
water into the center of the rotor, right where the
vent holes are. I don't
spray directly on the wiped surface. Prior to
an event, I remove the line
to the windshield washer jets (at the upper right
hand corner of the engine
compartment), and T it into the two hoses running
to the rotors. I remove
the windshield wiper motor plug, so the wipers don't
work. Then, when I
need to cool my brakes, I give them a shot of water
with the windshield
washer lever. A full reservoir lasts about 20 minutes.
Seemed to work at
Road America. When the reservoir is empty, the light comes
on. Handy.
If I ever stop fiddling with the brakes, I'll take a picture
of them.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 21:29:14 -0500
From: "Michael McWilliams" <
CelMike@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks for answers
>
>Has anyone on the list
actually destroyed a pair of turbos due to oil
coking in the bearings?
Just wondering if this is actual truth or just
something that sounds like a
good idea. Obviously it is best to cool down
the turbos, but I'm just
wondering how many actual failures occur.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
>15G's :-)
>
Well, the reason I'm having
my turbos rebuilt into 15Gs is because the rear
turbo was totally shot and
the front one was on its way out. The rear turbo
had lots of in/out and
side to side play in the shaft and leaked oil badly.
The front one made a
scraping sound when spun.
Since I've only put about 4k miles on the car
since I've owned it, I don't
know if it was lack of cool-down, infrequent oil
change, non-synthetic oil
or a combination of the three which did my turbos
in, but I'm sure a
cool-down period can't hurt.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 20:53:30 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
I believe cross-drilled are NOT just
for show.. but
they are not intended for long hard abuse.. maybe just
a
couple of weekend events (if you're lucky)..
- --- "Mohler,
Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
wrote:
> Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are just for show.
> On
our cars, they break
> if you use them hard.
> ---
>
>
Then how do you solve the gassing problem?
>
> Im not talking
OVERLY slotting a rotor btw..
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one
place.
Yahoo! Shopping:
http://shopping.yahoo.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:01:11 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cracked cross-drilled rotor
> I believe cross-drilled are NOT
just for show.. but
> they are not intended for long hard abuse.. maybe
just
> a couple of weekend events (if you're lucky)..
Guys, may I
remind you that there is a german car maker that runs pretty good brakes on
their cars ? Yes, Prosche uses crossdrilled rotors and I tell you the stuff
holds ! But check the design as the holes are already included in the cast and
are drilled out fully for finishing. this is the same with the Bremsa brakes.
Even more in Europe we do have a min. distance from the edge of the disk to the
first hole as well as the max diameter of the holes.
The non-expensive
crossdrilled rotors got the holes after the production is done. The advantage is
additional cooling as well as giving the gases a chance to go away from the
pads. Furthermore, some dust will go away there as well as water
does.
IMHO, get only crossdrilled ones if you are sure they will do their
job well. For this I can only tell of the Porsche (MovIt), Brembo and Bremsa
(both the same manufacturer in Italy) rotors.
BTW, even Baer does tell
you that their crossdrilled rotors tend to brake on circle track events and they
sold me the ones with only four slots for the Z28. Damn good brakes
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:43:48 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Adventure in braking
Hi all,
Bryan Schwieg
wrote:
>
> Hello John,
> I was reading a post you wrote about
Brad's big brakes and the use of stock rims. I'm looking to get his brakes, but
would like to use my stock '92 stealth rims. Brad says they won't work.
-
---> Brad is correct, they will not work as is.
Are you saying they
will if you use supra rotors? Please elaborate,
what do I have to mod? The
wheels? rotors?
- --->You would have to machine away some of the weld
metal and part of
the spoke and part of the inner diameter of the rim.
Its safer and
easier to buy new/used rims. I'd never try modifying a
rim for safety
reasons because I run road courses.
In order to fit the
Supra rotors properly, you must machine away some of
the thin pilot diameter
so the rotor fits flat against the TT hub. Its
a simple process, IF you
have a BIG lathe.
If you have a lathe big enough to turn away enough
stock of the rim to
provide clearance, then cutting the inner hat of the
rotor will be a
piece of cake.
Good luck.
John
Christian
> Thanks for your help,
> Bryan
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche
brakes
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 9 Dec 1999 00:48:45 EST
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Vr-4
launching
Okay guys, 95 stock VR-4.
I'm running in to some 400hp plus power
Camaros and Mustangs that are
pulling on me and making me loose confidence in
my STOCK machine.
These are straght runs of course. Any ideas on launch
techniques
or is it time to UPGRADE the VR-4?? This is embarrasing. One
way I launch is to hold at 6000 RPM and ride the clutch to fire out of the
hole. Call me stupid, but this seems to be the FASTEST launch technique. I
still get beat by a half car length. Is this too rough on my
car? Is there
a better way? What should I do .
Thanks Shannon 95 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #353
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm‹