--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #352
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
December 7 1999 Volume 01 : Number
352
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Dec 1999 09:20:53 -0800
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT + bike rack = ugly?
Hi All,
Does anyone have a
suggestion about a bike rack that will not ruin the
appearance of my
car?
I am considering an Evolution 9000, which uses a 1-1/4 hitch as
the
point of support.
If you have installed a small hitch like this on a
3000GT, I would be
interested to know if you feel it looks
O.K.
Thanks,
JAT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 12:36:46 EST
From:
Bbbrucb@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Dependable
car?
1st post. 91black RTT/T. 47000 miles. Ive been reading the posts for
a couple
of weeks and enjoyed gleaning what info i can understand (which is
very
little-not too mechanically inclined).
I just basically have one
question? How dependable are these cars?
I don't race and about the
only time I use the turbo is when passing on the
highway.
The car is in
excellent condition. I only paid $9400 for it. I understand
it
has a K&R filter, new exhaust system, and an aquarium bleeder
valve that
increases the boost 3lbs. ya'll are probably saying,
"what's a guy like you
doing with a car like this, if you don't want to
race?" The answer is
simple. I just love the car. The
way it looks, rides and all that power
available, --just in case. Back
to my question- If driven like a normal car
can I count on comparable
dependabliity, longivity to say my camry with just
routine maintainence or
is this just hopeful thinking?
Hopeful in OKC
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 11:43:10 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dependable car?
> Back to my question- If driven like a normal
car
> can I count on comparable dependabliity, longivity to say my
> camry with just routine maintainence or is this just hopeful
>
thinking? Hopeful in OKC
Overall, these cars are pretty
reliable. The motors rarely have problems, but the trannies are somewhat
weak. If you don't drive it very hard it should be reliable for you.
Some of us that try to wring a bunch more performance and drive aggressively
tend to go through parts more often.
As with any other car, you'll hear
about the bad things much more than the good things just due to human nature
(wanting to complain when things are bad).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 09:49:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dependable car?
They are extremely dependable if you treat them
right. I've had 3
mitsubishis and they have all (except for the Eclipse since
I sold it cuz
it was an automatic) hit over 180,000 miles. The only thing you
need to
worry about is the transmission.. Treat it VERY VERY gently.. Other
than
that, you could increase the boost to 15psi, and drive it WOT all the
time
and it would probably not have problems till 150,000 miles or so.
Just
make sure you do your oil changes, clean the engine regularly,
wash/wax
the car (so it still looks good) every other week (thats what I do..
a
wash each week, wax every other week..) and do the 60k and
120k
maintenance! :)
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Mon, 6 Dec 1999
Bbbrucb@aol.com wrote:
> 1st post.
91black RTT/T. 47000 miles. Ive been reading the posts for a couple
> of
weeks and enjoyed gleaning what info i can understand (which is very
>
little-not too mechanically inclined).
> I just basically have one
question? How dependable are these cars?
> I don't race and about
the only time I use the turbo is when passing on the
> highway.
>
The car is in excellent condition. I only paid $9400 for it. I
understand
> it has a K&R filter, new exhaust system, and
an aquarium bleeder valve that
> increases the boost 3lbs. ya'll
are probably saying, "what's a guy like you
> doing with a car like
this, if you don't want to race?" The answer is
>
simple. I just love the car. The way it looks, rides and all that
power
> available, --just in case. Back to my question- If driven
like a normal car
> can I count on comparable dependabliity, longivity to
say my camry with just
> routine maintainence or is this just hopeful
thinking?
> Hopeful in OKC
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Dec 1999 12:56:18 -0500
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dependable car?
I've got a 95 3000GT base model w/ just over
50,000 miles on it. The only thing on the
car that has ever gone bad is hte
air conditioning belt. All other parts that have been
replaced were
wear'n'tear things that I wore'n'tore (brakes, clutch, more brakes,
tires,
some more brakes). Nothing else has ever been replaced because it failed.
And
the air conditioning belt hadn't even failed yet, i had it replaced cause
it started
squeaking. I've been very impressed with the reliability of this
car (and it's ability
to pass that Camaro Z28 that thought it was just soo
fast and then .. whoops.. bend in
the road.. and Mr Straight-Line-Racer
couldn't handle it... but then hte road
straightened and he passed me again..
:( ). If I was to buy another car today, it'd
be a newer
3000GT w/ twin turbos *grin*.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 10:05:03 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Atomic..
Does anyone have the URL for Atomic Motorsports (Jacks
shop) at all?
Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 10:11:06 -0800
From: "Mohler,Anissa" <
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dependable car?
If you have no interest in racing I would
remove the bleeder valve. K&N filter
and aftermarket exhaust will give
you plenty of power without risking boost
spikes. Make sure you do the 60,000
mile maintenance. It costs quite a bit but
its worth it. Depending on how the
previous owner drove the car do not be
suprised if the tranny fails on you
eventually. Hopefully you got an extended
warrantee on the car, if you don't
you will probably want to get one. It cost me
$1500 for a 92 RT/TT and it
saved me many thousands of dollars on a tranny
replacement alone. Aside from
the tranny and expensive (and necessary if you
want to keep the car
dependable) maintenance you have a wonderful and
dependable
vehicle.
You will love the AWD this winter in OK! Watch the
SUV's slip and slide while
you are able to travel in the ice storms
:)
Enjoy!
Nissa
95VR4
|I understand it has a K&R
filter, new exhaust system, and an aquarium
|bleeder valve that
increases the boost 3lbs. ya'll are probably saying,
"what's
|a guy like you doing with a car like this, if you don't want to
race?" The
answer is
|simple. I just love the car.
The way it looks, rides and all
|that power available, --just in case.
Back to my question- If driven
|like a normal car can I count on comparable
dependabliity, longivity to say my
|camry with just routine maintainence or
is this just hopeful thinking?
|Hopeful in OKC
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 11:08:37 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dependable car?
- -----Original Message-----From:
Bbbrucb@aol.com>1st post. 91black
RTT/T. 47000 miles. Ive been reading the posts
for a couple
>of weeks
and enjoyed gleaning what info i can understand (which
is
very
>little-not too mechanically inclined).
>I just basically
have one question? How dependable are these cars?
>I don't race and
about the only time I use the turbo is when
passing on
the
>highway.
Although many of the more "visible"
members of Team3S regularly post
about performance and racing issues, most of
us do NOT race. We
have 545 member owners, and I would be surprised if
even 20% have
ever raced. Most of us are content to have a car that
performs when
we 'ask' it to, and has tons of reserve power for passing and
the
occasional stoplight contest. From what I can gather, these
cars
are VERY reliable if we don't "test the envelope" and try to
push
them past their more-than-adequate design. And I'm not
suggesting
"babying" your car - on the contrary - letting your car
"peek at the
red line" on a regular basis is GOOD for your car,
IMO. As has been
already mentioned, be religious about maintenance and
oil changes,
and make sure that 60k service is done before, rather than after
the
event.
>The car is in excellent condition. I only paid
$9400 for it. I
understand
>it has a K&N filter, new
exhaust system, and an aquarium bleeder
valve that
>increases the
boost 3lbs. ya'll are probably saying, "what's a guy
like
you
>doing with a car like this, if you don't want to race?"
The answer
is
>simple. I just love the car. The way it
looks, rides and all that
power
>available, --just in case. Back
to my question- If driven like a
normal car
>can I count on comparable
dependabliity, longivity to say my camry
with just
>routine
maintainence or is this just hopeful thinking?
>Hopeful in
OKC
As above, 90% of us ARE "a guy like you"-- even the
ladies on the
list (I think only 2 or 3 of the women race). But if you
do drive
it like a "normal" car, you probably have a better
likelihood of
developing problems than if you "open it up"
occasionally! Keep
that engine clean by making it work once in a
while. A car designed
for performance should be "allowed" to
perform... They don't break
if used 'within' their design
capabilities. One of our (racing)
members submitted a 'tongue-in-cheek'
Question/Answer to me for our
upcoming FAQ pages, and it might give you an
idea of why some of the
posts may make it appear as if these cars are not
reliable:
Q:>>> "Why does my TT/VR4 transmission/transfer
case keep blowing
up?"
A:>>> "Because you don't know
how to launch, and/or shift and/or are
trying to put well over twice the
rated HP through it."
The above may explain why you got that
impression. :-)
And BTW... What's a Camry?
:-)
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:31:52 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: lateral G's
I went to the race track in Holtville CA this past
Saturday to an SCCA High
Performance Car Clinic held by the local
chapter. Had a blast.
Here is an interesting measurement that I
obtained with my G-Tech Pro. In my
'91 VR4 with Eibach ProKit springs
and Firestone Firehawks SZ50 275/40/17 on
stock rims, I measured a lateral G
force of .97 in instantaneous mode. I
mounted the G-Tech as square as
possible on the AC display. This is a fairly
slow track with top speeds
of 110-115 mph (in my VR4) and turns in the 40-90 mph
range. I was
curious as to what other folks have measured.
- --
I'm surprised you
stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Dec 1999 14:43:34 -0500
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: lateral G's
> stock rims, I measured a lateral G force of
.97 in instantaneous mode. I
> mounted the G-Tech as square as
possible on the AC display. I was curious as to what
> other folks have
measured.
Quite impressive. The VR-4 stock is supposed to be able to
handle .94 lateral G's and
I'm sure it wouldn't be remotely difficult for a
VR-4 w/ a more than just springs to
hold a full G (if a Viper can do it, a
VR-4 can). Congrats on your time at the track.
- --Steve
"Loco3KGT" Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:56:15 -0500
From: "Michael Chan" <
michael.chan@hcl.com>
Subject:
Team3S: O2 Sensor Question
What's the life expectancy of an O2 (Oxygen)
Sensor? I have a mechanic
telling me that a possible reason for poor
gas mileage could be a worn out
sensor. He says that they usually
'last' about 100,000km depending on your
driving habits.
If so, how
many O2 sensors does a Twin Turbo Stealth have and where
are
they?
Thanks,
Mike
91TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:09:05 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: O2 Sensor Question
I would guess that the actual life expectancy
is little more than that, but
it is possible for them to go bad by 100K
km. If they do, it can cause poor
gas mileage (most often they
do). On a '91 there are two O2 sensors. One
in each exhaust
manifold.
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From: Michael Chan [
SMTP:michael.chan@hcl.com]
Sent:
Monday, December 06, 1999 1:56 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: O2 Sensor Question
What's the life expectancy of an O2
(Oxygen) Sensor? I have a
mechanic
telling me that a possible reason
for poor gas mileage could be a
worn out
sensor. He says that they
usually 'last' about 100,000km depending
on your
driving habits.
If
so, how many O2 sensors does a Twin Turbo Stealth have and
where
are
they?
Thanks,
Mike
91TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 17:13:15 EST
From:
Bbbrucb@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Thanks for
answers
Just read the responses to my "dependabity" question
and deeply appreciate
all the straightforward info. Feel like it's ok
to drive the car now,
anyway-whew.
Going to:
1. Remove the bleeder
valve ( 300+hp should be enough to get around, since i
don't race), not
presently anyway.
2. Save about 100 a mo. for 60000 service.
(next nov-dec). TB, Plugs, ect.
3. Synthetic fluids, cool down
the turbos.
4. Think about purchasing an extended warranty for the
transmissions sake if
I get enough out of my camry.
Again, thanks for all
the responses-
In the future, i'll try to posts questions that interest the
majority of
members. However
the support meant alot.
Bruce in
OKC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 17:38:32 EST
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks for answers
If your car does not have a turbo timer already
installed, I would suggest
that you put one in. It makes using the car a lot
easier. You do not have to
spend an extra minute or three in the car
letting it cool down. Otherwise
you run the chance of damaging the bearings
in the turbos.
Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:38:25 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
lateral G's
Ken
FWIW instantaneous G readings can be significantly
higher than
steady state readings. Skid pad readings are held for quire a
few
seconds. A Champ car [ new name for Indy car's ] can pull 6 G's
for
short periods but sustained numbers are more likely to be in the
range of 4
to 41/2 G's [ high downforce wing configuration ].
The G-tech has a mode for
measuring corning forces --- I think it
has to be sustained for several
seconds.
The mode I use for checking performance improvement after an
engine
mod is the peak hold, instantaneous acceleration mode. In first
gear
peak acceleration is about .78 G's.
Jim
Berry
> I went to the race track in Holtville CA this past
Saturday to an SCCA High
> Performance Car Clinic held by the local
chapter. Had a blast.
>
> Here is an interesting measurement
that I obtained with my G-Tech Pro. In my
> '91 VR4 with Eibach
ProKit springs and Firestone Firehawks SZ50 275/40/17 on
> stock rims, I
measured a lateral G force of .97 in instantaneous mode. I
> mounted
the G-Tech as square as possible on the AC display. This is a
fairly
> slow track with top speeds of 110-115 mph (in my VR4) and turns
in the 40-90 mph
> range. I was curious as to what other folks have
measured.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 16:57:47 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Thanks for answers
> If your car does not have a turbo timer
already installed, I
> would suggest that you put one in. It makes using
the car a
> lot easier. You do not have to spend an extra minute or
three
> in the car letting it cool down. Otherwise you run the
chance
> of damaging the bearings in the turbos.
Has anyone on the
list actually destroyed a pair of turbos due to oil coking in the
bearings? Just wondering if this is actual truth or just something that
sounds like a good idea. Obviously it is best to cool down the turbos, but
I'm just wondering how many actual failures occur.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
15G's :-)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 19:38:15 -0700
From: "Kevin Fanciulli" <
nebula9@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Thanks for answers
I am also wondering about the turbo cool-down
theory... After installing my
turbo timer, all my friends have asked
"if cooling down the turbos is so
important, why don't they tell you to
do it in the manual?" Got me to
thinking... IS it really
that important? Do our cars automatically cool
them down after the
engine is shut off (like Syclones and Typhoons do)?
Also, wouldn't the oil
just drain out of the turbos anyway -- instead of
staying in them and
cooking?
- -kevin fanciulli
'92 Stealth RT/TT - w/ Blitz Dual Turbo
Timer
3Si #0375
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Matt Jannusch
> Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 3:58 PM
>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks for answers
>
>
> > If your car
does not have a turbo timer already installed, I
> > would suggest that
you put one in. It makes using the car a
> > lot easier. You do not
have to spend an extra minute or three
> > in the car letting it cool
down. Otherwise you run the chance
> > of damaging the bearings in the
turbos.
>
> Has anyone on the list actually destroyed a pair of
turbos due to
> oil coking in the bearings? Just wondering if this
is actual
> truth or just something that sounds like a good idea.
Obviously
> it is best to cool down the turbos, but I'm just wondering
how
> many actual failures occur.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
> 15G's :-)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 21:56:16 EST
From:
Bbbrucb@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Thanks
for answers
I just received my "new" 91stealth owners manual
from daimler chrysler today
and onpage 5 there's a caution: to 'not turn off
the engine immediately after
running the engine at high speeds or under a
heavy load, but to allow the
engine to run at idle for approx. 60 secs. or
more before stopping it. And to
fail to do this would cut offf the oil
supply to the turbo and cause
overheating of the bearings.
Bruce of
okc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 19:58:18 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Thanks for answers
I don't have an manual handy, but I am pretty sure
they do tell you to let
the car idle for a minute or two after spirited
driving for the specific
purpose of cooling down the turbos.
Same
applies to warming it up before kicking the boost to it.
The turbos on
the VR4 are oil cooled by engine oil pressure supplied by a
mechanical oil
pump. There is no oil pressure unless the engine is running.
If there
is no oil pressure there is no oil moving through the unit and
therefore
little or no cooling effect. Oil will drain out for the most part
after
the engine is shut off but some will stay behind. It is this oil
that
will eventually cause problems if it is allowed to sit there and bake in
an
excessively hot turbo. If it is allowed to bake it will eventually
coke up
the blower. This can lead to reduced efficency, premature
failure, if not
outright failure.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Kevin
> Fanciulli
> Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 7:38
PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks for answers
>
>
> I am also
wondering about the turbo cool-down theory... After
> installing
my
> turbo timer, all my friends have asked "if cooling down the
turbos is so
> important, why don't they tell you to do it in the
manual?" Got me to
> thinking... IS it really that
important? Do our cars automatically cool
> them down after the
engine is shut off (like Syclones and Typhoons do)?
> Also, wouldn't the
oil just drain out of the turbos anyway -- instead of
> staying in them
and cooking?
>
> -kevin fanciulli
> '92 Stealth RT/TT - w/
Blitz Dual Turbo Timer
> 3Si #0375
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 22:59:36 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
strange clunk sound when starting
After installing the Stillen downpipe,
I have started hearing a clunk when I
first start the car, or when putting it
into reverse. The problem is once
its on, I can not tell where or if it
is striking something under the car.
It sounds like metal hitting
metal. The pipe cannot be pushed around by
hand as it is on
tight. I suspect the engine is torquing causing the pipe
to bend at the
flex section and strike the transfer case. Does anyone else
have
problems with their downpipe or do I just have the luck!? In
reverse,
it sounds like its dragging on the ground, but how could it?
Could it be a
broken engine mount or is there something I messed up while
installing it?
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 23:42:24 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
strange clunk sound when starting
In a message dated 12/6/99 10:17:10 PM
Central Standard Time,
sshelat@erols.com writes:
<<
fter installing the Stillen downpipe, I have started hearing a clunk when
I
first start the car, or when putting it into reverse. The problem is
once
its on, I can not tell where or if it is striking something under the
car.
It sounds like metal hitting metal. The pipe cannot be pushed
around by
hand as it is on tight. I suspect the engine is torquing
causing the pipe
to bend at the flex section and strike the transfer
case. Does anyone else
have problems with their downpipe or do I just
have the luck!? In reverse,
it sounds like its dragging on the ground,
but how could it? Could it be a
broken engine mount or is there
something I messed up while installing it?
Sam 95 VR4
>>
Hi there Sam,
I too, had that same
problem with my Alamo (has flex section) DP.
Peculiar thing; the
"Clunk" sound occurred only at a certain torque level; as
if when
shifting too soon into a higher gear then hitting & flooring the gas
pedal. But NEVER did the sound occur in Reverse in my situation.
After
several attempts to diagnose the DP area and finding that everything
is tight
and secure, we found nothing except for the fact that the front
part of the
DP area (or possibly the gutted pre-cat housing) may have been
hitting part
of the frame of the car. After several attempts to
re-postition & re-install
the DP; the attempts were unsuccessful - I
still had the "clunking" noise. I
decided to just deal with
the "Clunking" noise and avoid any low rpm (higher
gear) wide open
throttle situations.
Eventually when we removed the
DP again to install my EGT gauge and place
the probe into the rear exhaust
manifold, the "clunking" sound disappeared
when we finally
re-installed everything........so go figure!??? I just don't
understand what happened or what we did differently when we re-installed the
DP. So all I can recommend is for you to attempt to remove your DP
again and
re-install it in a more "clearance" oriented
manner. Try to position the DP
in such a way that it has enough
clearance when under torque to avoid hitting
any other parts of the
car...........I hope that makes sense.
I don't think that helped much
but I just wanted to share my same "clunking"
sound experience
with you and everyone else........hope it was of some help,
anyway.
Talk to you soon,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92
VR4
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Date:
Mon, 6 Dec 1999 23:17:37 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject:
Team3S: More on Boost Controller Set-Up
I offer this long post because of
the great variance
in advice I got from members of this (and other) lists, as
to how to set up
my electronic boost controller.
My controller is the
APEXi Super AVC-R. (Not the
latest "big-faced" version).
All
runs made in trying to set-up were at wide open throttle (WOT),
starting
between 2500-3000rpm and
going to 5000-6000rpm. This was in
3rd gear on a
6-speed. Max boost was always set at 1.0 bar. I was advised by
members of
the lists to start at various numbers between .35, and .84 BADC
(boost
actuator duty cycle).
At .60 BADC I got overboost to
1.25-1.27bar,
fuel cut, and ignition miss.
Set BADC to .44, got .68bar
boost, no fuel cut,
no overshoot, and no missing.
Set BADC to .68, got no
cut, no miss, and no overshoot, but didn't come near
1.0bar boost.
Next I
kept incrementally raising BADC, and finally
reached 1.0bar at an BADC of .74
between 5000
and 6000rpm. Great! However the mid-range
punch
(2500-4000rpm) was less than in some
earlier runs.
After a few days of
ordinary driving, I noticed that
the mid-range punch came back. Guess the
APEXi
was "learning!" Maybe a week later, my datalogger
(wife) was with me, and I
made a full throttle run; but the boost only
reached .87bar! Hmmm- so I went
back to incrementally increasing the BADC
'til I got 1.0bar without
over-shoot, missing or fuel cut, and the BADC that
achieved this was .80. I
set up the same BADC in the "B"
channel and got the same results.
So I think I'm pretty near optimum settings
for my
car. Two things still puzzle me: (1) my reading of
the
lists led me to believe that stock turbos could not
achieve 1.0bar at
5000-6000rpm, and (2), why
are my OEM plugs not misfiring? I bought a
new set of plugs and gapped them
to 0.350 in expectation
of having to
install them to prevent misfire at higher
boost levels, of which I have very
little, if any.
I hope this info is useful to some people, maybe
even to
some of the "veterans" who gave me such
disparate advice on how to
"set-up" this S-AVC-R.
Best regards,
ptg
PS-
If list
administrators feel I have belabored this subject
too extensively, simply say
so.
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 11:09:01 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More on Boost Controller Set-Up
> This was in 3rd gear
on a 6-speed.
Ok, just make sure the car runs on full load. On the 5
speed this is in third and above and I'm not sure about 6 speed.
> At
.60 BADC I got overboost to 1.25-1.27bar, fuel cut, and ignition
miss.
<snip>
> Set BADC to .68, got no cut, no miss, and no
overshoot, but didn't come near 1.0bar boost.
Ahem, was the first line a
typo ?? 0.6 BADC and that high overboost (and hopefully no damage) ? and 0.68
and no problem then ?
> After a few days of ordinary driving, I
noticed that the mid-range punch came back.
> Guess the APEXi was
"learning!"
The question is have you put it in learning mode
?
> Two things still puzzle me:
> (1) my reading of the lists
led me to believe that stock turbos could not
> achieve 1.0bar at
5000-6000rpm
Depends on how much overboost you are getting and how fast
it is limited. When you shift at 7000 and overboost happens at 6000 then, boost
may hold to 6000 but it will not when accellerating from 2500.
> (2),
why are my OEM plugs not misfiring? I bought a new set of plugs and gapped
them
> to 0.350 in expectation of having to install them to prevent
misfire at higher
You are not geting misfires due to the fact you are not
running more than 1 bar around 5500 - 5700 (where the misfires happens) and the
plugs gapped ok.
> If list administrators feel I have belabored this
subject
> too extensively, simply say so.
Nono, good info
!!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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page is
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Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 11:39:17 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks for answers
> I am also wondering about the turbo
cool-down theory... After installing my
> turbo timer, all my
friends have asked "if cooling down the turbos is so
> important, why
don't they tell you to do it in the manual?"
As one already stated,
this is mentioned in the manual (even on my german/french/italian one). But they
do not say how long to cool it down. But in our hemisphere you have to slow down
heavily before you come to the house and in my case the DualTimer shown for 90%
of the cases 10 sec (minimum time) and I shut it off immediatly then. I only let
it idle when it calculates a time of more than that (especially after
test-runs... 1min 20sec were not seldom !)
> Got me to
thinking... IS it really that important? Do our cars automatically
cool
> them down after the engine is shut off (like Syclones and Typhoons
do)?
AFAIK, the GM cars leave the fan on until the temp went down but do
not circulate the oil anymore (engine not running). This is the same with the
Audi Turbos but there the fan is then blowing to the turbo.
> Also,
wouldn't the oil just drain out of the turbos anyway -- instead of
>
staying in them and cooking?
After switching the engine off, there is
still some pressure in the system and the oil doesn't drain that fast. Even more
then the thin layer of oil will cook much faster and therefore I think it
is always better to feed some fresh fluid through them for some time. The only
bad thing of this cooling down period is that the intake heats up like crazy due
to the lack of colder air getting into the engine compartment. As an example, I
got a reading of 84°F before the TB when driving to home back from a
testdrive with the timer still showing 52 seconds. During the cool down phase
(sitting infront the garage) the temperature rose above 125 during this time
(lack of cool air sucked in). With the hood open, the result was about 3°
lower (negligible)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:01:27 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: strange clunk sound when starting
Sam...
I had a
similar experience when added my GReddy catback exhaust. I ended up
removing
the left side tow hook and it went away.
When I later added the ATR
downpipe (which doesn't have a flex section like
the stock downpipe), I would
get a clunk when decelerating. It was
infrequent so I put up with it. When I
pulled the GReddy completely and
added a Flowmaster muffler to the back end
of the downpipe it got VERY loud,
slamming under either acceleration or
deceleration. Clearly a result of the
engine torquing on its motor mounts
(which I examined and found no failure).
Soooo, I took a sheet of gasket
material and a piece of truck tire and
strapped it to the muffler. Perfectly
quiet. The kluggie (technical term) is
very ugly, but I spend as little time
as possible under the car. :-)
I think the bottom line is that no
aftermarket component will be as perfect
a fit as the stock component.
However, we can all discover (and share)
fairly simple workarounds.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam
Shelat [
mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Monday,
December 06, 1999 11:00 PM
To: team3s
Subject: Team3S: strange clunk sound
when starting
After installing the Stillen downpipe, I have started
hearing a clunk when I
first start the car, or when putting it into
reverse. The problem is once
its on, I can not tell where or if it is
striking something under the car.
It sounds like metal hitting metal.
The pipe cannot be pushed around by
hand as it is on tight. I suspect
the engine is torquing causing the pipe
to bend at the flex section and
strike the transfer case. Does anyone else
have problems with their
downpipe or do I just have the luck!? In reverse,
it sounds like its
dragging on the ground, but how could it? Could it be a
broken engine
mount or is there something I messed up while installing it?
Sam 95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Dec 1999 13:20:29 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler" <
RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FrontWheelDrive: Taking off tooQuickly In 1st?
I bought a
standard transmission '94 3000gtSL and am apparently still
learning how to
drive it 3000 miles later. The tires are good. I have
learned
that for me, the best way to smoothly leave a complete stop
(without riding
the clutch) is to slowly let out the hydraulic (stock)
clutch in a 2 step
mode on the clutch pedal. If time permits no gas is
necessary,
otherwise a bit of gas helps for a smoother transition into
acceleration
mode. Succeeding gears are shifted at 3200-3500rpm or above
for a
smooth shift. Anyways, that was the results of an earlier post
which
some of you may remember and thank you for all of the responses.
When I
don't care how rough I take off from a complete stop, however, I
sometimes
give the car too much gas and the front tires slip in first
gear. I'm sure
we've all done this but lately I have noticed a
chunk-chunk-chunk (maybe
3-5 times in quick succession) deep sound (for lack
of a better word)
coming from the front tires which I am hoping is just the
tires grabbing,
then not grabbing, then grabbing, etc. (causing something
near the front
axle/tires to "slosh"???) until traction is good and
the sound goes away.
I noticed a similar sound though, backing off the end of
my driveway this
morning, almost like a shock bottoming out or
something. It only clunked
once obviously while backing off the slight
curve from my sloping driveway.
I am wondering with only 64,000 miles if it
is possible that struts and/or
shocks could be worn at this
stage. Loose CV boots????? But could
the
chunk-chunk-chunk occasional noise upon quick acceleration in 1st
gear
described above really be related to shocks or struts?? Sorry if
this
isn't descriptive enough or a bit vague, but I am willing to expand
and
answer all questions. Thanks in advance for any
help.
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End
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