--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #350
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
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Team3S Digest
Saturday, December 4 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
350
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 03 Dec 1999 18:05:27 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Suggestion and question.
Today I had my ATR high flow cat put in, and it
does make a difference.
My stock cat was a bit clogged, but not too badly,
and the new high flow
cat is noticeable. I suggest that all 1st get car
owners have their
converters checked for possible meltdown of the matrix
inside, and
possibly upgrade it to a high flow unit.
Will the EGR give a
"check engine" light if it's disconnected? I don't
have any
emissions to worry about, and i'm considering disconnecting it
tomorrow, and
would like to know if this will throw the ECU off.
Thanks
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 3 Dec 1999 17:32:22 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suggestion and question.
> Today I had my ATR high flow cat
put in, and it does make a
> difference.
> My stock cat was a bit
clogged, but not too badly, and the
> new high flow
> cat is
noticeable. I suggest that all 1st get car owners have their
> converters
checked for possible meltdown of the matrix inside, and
> possibly upgrade
it to a high flow unit.
> Will the EGR give a "check engine"
light if it's disconnected? I don't
> have any emissions to worry about,
and i'm considering
> disconnecting it
> tomorrow, and would like
to know if this will throw the ECU off.
If the rear cat is bad, the
front ones are probably in similar or worse shape as well...
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 00:28:30 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suggestion and question (EGR)
> Will the EGR give a
"check engine" light if it's disconnected? I don't
> have any
emissions to worry about, and i'm considering disconnecting it
> tomorrow,
and would like to know if this will throw the ECU off.
A better way is to
block EGR off at the O2 sensor housing or at the intake
plenum. For this,
simply use a thin stainless steel that you can cut with
the shape of the
gasket. On my 93' I had no problems but I openend it again
for the very cold
winter times (to heat up the intake)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 00:38:27 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water Injection (semi-long)
Yes, Todd and the others are very
right about the DSMs and it also works
close to our cars. But our programs
are slightly different and control the
BS a little different. The BS is only
used for a quicker spool up and closes
above 3500 or so. Even without knock
at 4500 the BS was already closed and I
think this behaviour is different to
the DSMs due to the twinturbo setup
with the smaller wheels.
I'm
currently altering one of the programs I have for the G-Force ECU.
The
activation of the BS is totally disabled here and I just wish to know how
to
give the knock signal to the BS port. But even G-Force has no idea how to
do
it ... but how did they knew how to disable it
???
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> Well, not entirely true. The
ECU sends signals to the BS in other
> situations other than just
airflow. Read:
>
http://www.dsm.org/archives/1999/06/19990628.txt/30.html
and the links on
> that page, if you really want to learn the nuts and the
bolts of our ECU
to
> BS situation.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
3 Dec 99 16:25:27 PST
From: Gil Lee <
gil_lee@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: SRS
light, rear hatch, 1st>2nd gear grinding
I recently swapped batteries
outta my 92 3KGTVR4 and now the SRS light is on
and will not go away.
The factory manual states that if you turn the ignition
on/off 10 times, it
should clear it. That worked in the past, but not this
time. Does
anyone have any ideas?
Also thanks for the earlier advice about the
rattling noise from the back. I
think it's the rear struts for the rear
hatch, anyone know where I can get
replacements?
And one more thing,
pre93 3KGT seem to be notorious for funny transmissions.
I had mine replaced
once already because it would not shift easily from 1st to
2nd. Now,
the problem seems to be coming back, in fact if you're in high RPM
in 1st
gear and shift to 2nd, you will often feel some resistance and hear
some
grinding noises. You have to let go and shift again at a lower speed
to
engage. I just hope it's not shredding the gears.
Anyone will
similar
experiences?
____________________________________________________________________
Get
free email and a permanent address at
http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1For
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 3 Dec 1999 16:57:10 -0800
From: Luis Interiano <
Interian@oeaa.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bay Area Stealth/3KGT
Gentlemen, I just got off the phone with my
mechanic in Woodland, CA (I have
120,000 miles on my NA 3KGT) and he quoted
the following:
All belts (including Timing) and Water pump $632.34, parts
& labor
Crank and Cam Seals $88.00 (recommended since you are already in
there),
parts& labor
spark plugs $60.00 labor only. -maybe these
can be obtained from the club
sources.
Hope this helps
Luis
- -----Original Message-----
From: joseph dorsey [
mailto:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Friday, December 03, 1999 11:43 AM
To: 3SI (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Bay
Area Stealth/3KGT
List,
First off, this list provides great
info. echange.
I just spent @ $1,100 in parts and labor
for
replacing:
Timing Belt/Water Pump, Drive Belts, and Spark Plugs.
Labor ran $600 (Mitsu Dealership.) Do any of you Bay
Area residents
know of any good, experienced,
independent "less expensive"
Dodge/Mitsu mechanics in
our area? Any referrals would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
jdorsey '91 stealth r/t twin
__________________________________________________
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Date:
Fri, 3 Dec 1999 19:11:02 -0600
From: "Keith Redburn" <
bigdaddy@tisd.net>
Subject: Team3S:
VR4 Spyder wind noise
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
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text/plain;
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I have a 95VR4 Spyder that has tremendous amount of wind
noise relating =
to the roof
that is really noticable at speeds above
50mph. It appears to come from =
the mating point of the operable side window
and fixed rear quarter =
window!! Any Ideas?
-
------=_NextPart_000_00D5_01BF3DC2.243A1800
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3616.1301"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a 95VR4 Spyder
that has tremendous amount of =
wind noise=20
relating to the
roof</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>that is really
noticable at speeds above 50mph. It =
appears to=20
come from the mating
point of the operable side window and fixed rear
=
quarter=20
window!! Any
Ideas?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_00D5_01BF3DC2.243A1800--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 03 Dec 1999 19:07:36 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Yes, Eibachs work
There was a question on the list recently,
asking which springs are best
for an autocross car.
I can vouch for
the Ground Control adjustable suspension with Eibach
coil-over
springs.
As some of you may remember, back in September I went with a
bunch of ROWGs
(rich old white guys) to the Marshalltown, Iowa go-kart track
to run some
hot laps, and got soundly beaten by a twin turbo AWD Porsche,
driven by a
ROWG, and a 348 Ferrari, driven by an ex pro racer. My time was
42.1 sec,
behind the Porsche at 41.8 and the Ferrari at 41.7. It was a nice
warm day,
with a dry track. I was running my stock VR4 with Yoko 032R race
tires.
The track is 0.7 miles with 10 turns, run in 2nd gear. A 42
second lap is a
55 mph average speed. Lots of clubs use the track for
autocrosses, so this
was a good test for the Eibachs under autocrossing
conditions.
Today, my son and I went back to the speedway, all by
ourselves. It was
cold and the track was damp, with some puddles -- one in
particular in a
braking zone. I ran the car exactly the same as in September:
race tires
and stock brakes, but with the Ground Control kit and Eibachs
installed.
Today, my best time was 41.53, so it looks like the Eibachs are
good for a
half-second a lap under less than wonderful conditions. In
an autocross, a
half-second is an eternity, and often the difference between
1st and 10th.
We only had an hour or so before it got dark, so I did not
have a chance to
experiment with tire pressures. I suspect there may be some
more benefit to
be had through suitable adjustments.
It also means a
certain 348 Ferrari and a certain twin turbo Porsche are
going to be very
surprised next spring, when all the ROWGs go out to play
again and a little
black VR4 puts them all away.
Boost controller next!
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4/handles like a big go kart!.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 03 Dec 1999 17:36:35 -0800
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 Spyder wind noise
> Keith Redburn wrote:
> I have a
95VR4 Spyder that has tremendous amount of wind noise
> relating to the
roof
> that is really noticable at speeds above 50mph. It appears to
come
> from the mating point of the operable side window and fixed
rear
> quarter window!! Any Ideas?
I've got the same car with
the same problem. From what I've heard it's
a design flaw. When
the roof is retracted, the rubber seals on the
quarter windows are pressed up
against something in the trunk and they
eventually (pretty quickly, actually)
get permanently bent until they
don't seal very well and you get your wind
noise.
A few months ago, right before my 3 year warranty ran out (it's a
95 but
wasn't sold until August 96 for some reason!), I had my dealer
replace
both seals. The car got a lot quieter, but still not as quiet
as I
think it could and should have been.
Has anyone found any
solutions they're happy with? I positively HATE my
dealer, and since
it's out of warranty I don't want to pay them to have
them do a crappy
job. So I'm thinking about finding a local automotive
glass shop that
can work with me on making it seal better and/or
replacing the
seals.
- -Fred
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 03 Dec 1999 22:58:15 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Injection (not-so-long)
Hey Roger,
I have a
feeling our ECU to BCS signals are very similar to the 2G DSM.
John's
LED that is intercepting the ECU signal behaves EXACTLY the same as
the 2G
DSM LED. Same blinking light in roughly the same RPM range and it
goes
solid when the timing get retarded.
I'd trust Todd Day and what I've
personally seen over what G-force tells us.
I wonder if G-force can
even spell "3000GT." hehe. :)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
>To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Injection (semi-long)
>Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 00:38:27
+0100
>
>Yes, Todd and the others are very right about the DSMs and
it also works
>close to our cars. But our programs are slightly different
and control the
>BS a little different. The BS is only used for a quicker
spool up and
>closes
>above 3500 or so. Even without knock at 4500
the BS was already closed and
>I
>think this behaviour is different
to the DSMs due to the twinturbo setup
>with the smaller
wheels.
>
>I'm currently altering one of the programs I have for the
G-Force ECU. The
>activation of the BS is totally disabled here and I just
wish to know how
>to
>give the knock signal to the BS port. But
even G-Force has no idea how to
>do
>it ... but how did they knew
how to disable it ???
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>
> Well, not entirely true. The ECU sends signals to the BS in
other
> > situations other than just airflow. Read:
> >
http://www.dsm.org/archives/1999/06/19990628.txt/30.html
and the links
>on
> > that page, if you really want to learn the
nuts and the bolts of our ECU
>to
> > BS
situation.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
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Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 19:56:11 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: VPC and GCC
I have just scored, VERY CHEAP a VPC and GCC, I have
seen alot of people
using them on there cars and would like any information
on the setup and
using them.
Thanks
Henry 3000 GT
VR4
15'G's
550cc Injectors
HKS EVC 4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 03:07:44 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: knock led Mod
I too would like to know how to hook up a
"knock led" to a 91-93 car.
However you MUST keep in mind, that if
this knock led is installed and works
the same way as the DSM one does, it
does NOT necessarily mean that you have
"KNOCK".
You might
have "0" knock sum (the ECU doesn't really respond to
"spikes" or
erratic minor knock frequencies, there is a filter, and
a program/circuit to
detect knock at certain times of combustion. It does
count knock as a "SUM"
created by the programming). When this
"SUM" hits over 12-15 counts (out of
a possible 43), the ECU
retards timing, and dumps fuel (bad gas
mileage/slower car).
If the
"knock" led is lighting up, it could simply mean that you are
flowing
more air than your ECU expects (not necessarily "bad" for
your engine if you
have the associated fuel mods), and the precursor to the
dreaded "fuel cut"
stage is actually the factory Boost Control
Solenoid (BCS) to pulse (led
flickers) or shut completely (led stays on all
the time). The BCS is there
to limit boost to about 6-7psi (as if the turbo
wastegates were directly
connected to the pressure source)
The only
real way to know is any one or better, a combination of
these
things,
1: Air Fuel (A/F) gauge (reads off your o2
sensors)
2: Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) gauge
3: TMO Datalogger (
www.tmo.com) (91-93 3/S only)
4: A Vulcan Mind
Meld with the ECU (read above :)
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
Partial Original
message:-------------------------------------------------
Actually the first
knock LED that was in John's car did detect knock and not
ECU signals to the
boost solinoid. It was connected directly to the knock
sensor.
(Hence the reason for the knock sensor to eventually get fried)
But your
right. The LED that the DSM guys have been using will only tell
you
when timing retard and possible detonation is occuring. You don't
want
that LED to light up very often, unless you like rebuilds.
;)
later,
Curt
-
-------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 08:41:31 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: SRS
light, rear hatch, 1st>2nd gear grinding
In a message dated 12/3/99
7:27:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gil_lee@usa.net writes:
<< I
recently swapped batteries outta my 92 3KGTVR4 and now the SRS light is
on
and will not go away. The factory manual states that if you turn
the
ignition
on/off 10 times, it should clear it. That worked in
the past, but not this
time. Does anyone have any
ideas?
>>
I had this same problem when my
battery slowly discharged. If your
battery slowly discharged and
reached voltage below 8 volts (I think that's
the magic number) a
"permanent" fault code is set in the SRS Control Computer
which
requires resetting by the dealership. My dealer charged me $60 to turn
the darn thing off. I wrote to Chrysler and told them I didn't think I
should have to pay that because it is a "glitch" in their computer
design.
They agreed, said it was a safety issue, and refunded my money
without
question.
Joe 91 TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Dec 1999 12:18:19 -0500
From: Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
I am going to install a set of denso 550cc
injectors I just purchased.
They are brand new in their packages. The only
thing they did not come with
is the o-ring that fits into the intake
manifold....
Anyhow, I went down to Mitsu and bought the 6 o-rings and am
planning to
install the injectors today. My question is this:
Do I
need to send my ECU back to G-force to have it re-programmed now that
I am
installing the 550's? At the time I sent my ECU to them I had the
stock
pump and injectors.....
Also, how much is involved in installing the
Cosmo fuel pump. Is it a
direct replacement unit? How do I go
about pulling the old one out? On
the Talons I remember I had to pull
up the rear seat. Are the 3000's the
same way?
I would like to
get this stuff done today (Saturday) so if anyone is out
there that can
answer these questions I would greatly appreciate it!
Rick
94 Stealth
TT (Pearl Yellow)
13G's
Cartech intercoolers
AMS hard pipe
kit
K&N FIPK
ATR downpipes
HKS exhaust, no cat, no front pre-cat,
rear pre-cat hollow
Greddy Profec B boost controller
Apexi AFC
SPI
boost gauge (yellow)
Cyberdyne AF gauge
G-Force ECU upgrade
-
---------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 10:44:02 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
550cc Injectors
The ECU will have to be reprogrammed especially if you do
not have some
other means of fuel control. 550s with the stock program
will run very rich
and in some cases too rich to be drivable. The AFC
should be enough to get
it running and may even be enough to get decent
performance. I would
probably opt for the a new program though and use
the AFC for tweaking. I
have an AFC in addition to the MASC. It
was enough to keep the car running
reasonably well but not enough to squeeze
out optimal performance.
The Cosmo pump is a direct drop in
replacement. You won't have to remove
the rear seat but you will have
to be careful with the main fuel line. It
is a rather silly
design.
Almost everything is accessible by removing the trunk deck.
You'll have to
detach the hose from beneath the car first, then remove the
line from the
fuel pump accessible in the rear hatch area. You may have
to jack the car
up to gain enough access to the line beneath the car.
It is in the rear
passenger-side wheel well area. Be careful with the
fittings as they are
likely seized and the metal is rather
soft.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I
am going to install a set of denso 550cc injectors I just purchased.
>
They are brand new in their packages. The only thing they did not
> come
with
> is the o-ring that fits into the intake
manifold....
>
> Anyhow, I went down to Mitsu and bought the 6
o-rings and am planning to
> install the injectors today. My question is
this:
>
> Do I need to send my ECU back to G-force to have it
re-programmed now that
> I am installing the 550's? At the time I
sent my ECU to them I had the
> stock pump and
injectors.....
>
> Also, how much is involved in installing the
Cosmo fuel pump. Is it a
> direct replacement unit? How do I
go about pulling the old one out? On
> the Talons I remember I had
to pull up the rear seat. Are the 3000's the
> same
way?
>
> I would like to get this stuff done today (Saturday) so if
anyone is out
> there that can answer these questions I would greatly
appreciate it!
>
> Rick
> 94 Stealth TT (Pearl Yellow)
>
13G's
> Cartech intercoolers
> AMS hard pipe kit
> K&N
FIPK
> ATR downpipes
> HKS exhaust, no cat, no front pre-cat, rear
pre-cat hollow
> Greddy Profec B boost controller
> Apexi
AFC
> SPI boost gauge (yellow)
> Cyberdyne AF gauge
> G-Force
ECU upgrade
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Dec 1999 13:42:22 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: EGR on
a NA engine.
Has anybody with an NA DOHC disconnected the EGR? I'm
looking in the
manual and under the hood, but I can't find the part. Also,
there is a
small, black hose that is connected right before the TB and
also
somewhere under the plenum. Is that it? If not, does anybody know
what
that is? Thanks
Matt
Hell-bent on disconnecting the
EGR!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 13:45:34 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Off
Topic: Indra's new shop and # (Please Update your Address
Book)
Hello fellow 3Si members,
I know
I've been out of the loop lately due to personal circumstances;
but I
thought I should post this update for us all re: one of our vendors
that I
originally introduced to our community, Indra Mahesa - formerly at
Apex R
Motorsport. Indra is NO LONGER at Apex R Motorsport due to an
issue/conflict among the owners; I believe that the shop is bad mouthing
Indra and trying to give him a bad/shady name; So if any of you need to
contact Indra directly re: any future orders or clarification of issues;
please feel free to call him at his new phone # :
602-690-3767
MAX
REV motorsport; ask for Indra.
Remember:
PLEASE DO NOT order
from Apex R Motorsport or from their website
(ApexVR4.com); In my
opinion, I believe Indra should delete that website
since he worked so hard
to design it and get it started in the first place.
He dedicated
1 1/2 years to Apex R Motorsport and they decided to SHAFT him;
So let's not
even bother calling them because all they'll try to do is make
Indra look
bad. Totally uncalled for!!! So I would appreciate for all of us
to
continue to support Indra and his services at Max Rev Motorsport. For
those of you who have ordered from Indra before; you KNOW he will continue
to
provide us with the best prices and tech
support/advice!
I hope this message has clarified any
concerns/rumors/issues re: Indra's
status.
No, I do not work for
Indra!! I'm just a satisfied customer willing to share
with all of us
3Si members!!!
Regards,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
-
'92 VR4 - Still NO BOOST!!!!
:-( But not for long!!!! I will update
you all
soon.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 22:33:44 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
> Do I need to send my ECU back to G-force to
have it re-programmed now that
> I am installing the 550's? At the
time I sent my ECU to them I had the
> stock pump and
injectors.....
Barry said it all and this are onyl my $0.02 addons
:
The ECU program for a stock setup from G-Force are often a little leaner
in
the lower and richer in the higher load band. Also they do lock in only
one
fuel map. In your case you can adapt for the rpm with the AFC and it
may
work. The negative thing is that it is rpm related and load is different
in
the gears and also differs if you go up a hill or just driving on a
normal
road.
Normally you may have to tell G-Force what mods you have
(the pump doesn't
change anything for the program), they send you a new set
of EPROMs and rip
you off $150 (this is just crazy for altering a
table)
In my case, I use the G-Force for the higher limiter and changed
timing and
let the ARC fuel controller do the job for the fuel side. I also
used the
AFC for a little fine tuning but found it obsolute with the
ARC.
> Also, how much is involved in installing the Cosmo fuel
pump.
On my car the problem was that everything was seized and rusty.
nothing
moved and the fuel line comming out of the assembly is very sensible
and can
easily be bent (very bad !) I firstly tried and got into the danger
of
braking something so I finally let my dealer doing the job and they
only
charged my about $70 for doing it. No headaches for me, please
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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Date:
Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:48:49 +0200
From: "Oleg-Telia" <
Oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Team3S: question
about AFC
Just installed new AFC fuel controller (with new display). The
thing I am
wondering about, is that parameter "airflow" is not
changing, it is always
shown as 0%. All other parameters are OK. Is it normal
or something is
wrong?
I installed the fuel controller for fuel system
future upgrades, now I don't
use it - just want to be sure that it is
installed properly.
Olegs,
www.3000gt.lvFor subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
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Date:
Sat, 4 Dec 1999 19:27:49 -0800
From: Nick Xiong <
nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Off Topic: Indra's new shop and # (Please Update your Address
Book)
I've been out of the loop even longer... why shouldn't we
order from
Apex? cause I've had excellent dealings
w/Apex..
On Sat, 4 Dec 1999 13:45:34 EST
TurboDrvn@aol.com writes:
> Hello
fellow 3Si members,
>
> I know I've
been out of the loop lately due to personal
> circumstances; > but I
thought I should post this update for us all re:
one of our
> vendors
> that I originally introduced to our community, Indra Mahesa -
>
formerly at > Apex R Motorsport. Indra is NO LONGER at Apex
R
Motorsport due to
> an > issue/conflict among the owners; I
believe that the shop is bad
> mouthing > Indra and trying to give him
a bad/shady name; So if any of
you need
> to > contact Indra
directly re: any future orders or clarification of
> issues; > please
feel free to call him at his new phone # :
>
> 602-690-3767
>
MAX REV motorsport; ask for Indra.
>
> Remember:
>
PLEASE DO NOT order from Apex R Motorsport or from their website
>
(ApexVR4.com); In my opinion, I believe Indra should delete that
>
website
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