--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #346
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
November 30 1999 Volume 01 : Number
346
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Nov 1999 17:55:15 -0700
From: Dave <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: eBay item - Tenzo Air filter
just an fyi for anyone that
needs an air filter.. dunno if they're any
good either.. the
mention of a group purchase is what made me think of
posting it here..
like I said.. fyi..
from the web page:
-
---------------------------
You are bidding on one TENZO Power Stack filter
and Mass Airflow adapter for
the Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo 95+, 3000GT 91-97,
Dodge Stealth 91-97 and Ford
Explorer 92-95. They are BRAND NEW! NEVER
INSTALLED! NO RESERVE!
<snip>
Volume discounts and group
purchases available.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=207247216-
----------------------------
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica
Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Nov 1999 19:08:25 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Controll Success!!!
This a message of sincere thanks to all
of you who
have been so patient and forbearing with my incessant
inquiries regarding the APEXi Super AVC-R boost
controller.
Today I
began increasing my BADC starting from
56%, and have had NO boost overshoots
at all!
Don't remember what the last setting was that I
used
today, but my trusty datalogger said it only
got up to 0.89 bar without any
overshoot. I must
finally be on the right track.
Many thanks for
all the help!
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:16:54 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Funnies
You know you have too much horsepower when:
1. The
emissions test guy starts laughing as soon as you pull onto
the
rollers.
2. You can't drive your car in the rain.
3. Your
'significant other' is afraid to drive your car.
4. You are afraid to drive
your car.
5. You spend more on tires than on food.
6. You spend more on
car insurance than on house payments.
7. You look in a state police car and
see a picture of your car taped to
the dash.
8. You throw your
underwear in the garbage rather than the hamper.
9. You have to go to the
track to buy gas.
10. Your mechanic names the new wing of his shop after
you.
11. Jacques Villeneuve and Michael Schumacher wave you by.
12. You
can make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs.
13. You're tempted to wear
your fire suit just to drive to the office.
14. Red signal lights shift to
green as you're approaching then shift back
to red as you're receding.
15.
You arrive somewhere before you left.
16. You get pulled over for doing 155
in a 35 but the cops will let you go
if "they can look under the
hood."
17. You remove the $2000 stereo system to save 6 lb. of
weight.
18. You are not allowed to run in the Silver State Challenge.
19.
You get an anonymous phone call asking if you are interested in being
in
the Cannonball Run.
20. Your face looks like you are riding a NASA
centrifuge when you drive
the car.
22. You need parachute
braking.
23. 'significant other' won't even ride in the car.
24 There is
no possible way to "sneak out" of your neighborhood at 6 am.
25.
Your pets scramble for their hiding spots as soon as the garage door
is
opened.
26. Family photos throughout the house are replaced with
life-sized
posters of your car.
27. Fuel is delivered to your home: in 55
gallon drums!
28. You carry earplugs in your car.
29. The only spot on the
car which receives any regular cleaning is the
windshield.
30. You find
out that side mirrors don't hold up at speeds exceeding 145 mph
31. Young
children cling to their mommies in fear when you round the corner.
32. Birds
fall out of their nests from the rumble of your 5" dual exhaust
33. All
the major Tire makers are sending you free slicks in hopes of
endorsement
deal.
34. The UPS guy took to taking Steroids so he could keep up with
your
shipments
35. The Fed Ex guy had a nervous breakdown
36. All the
wildlife within a 800ft radius around your house got the HELLOUT.
37. The
nearest Geological Seismic Surveying Station Operator knows your
address by
heart.
38. A booming voice greets potential passengers with, "That's
right....you
paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the EDGE
39. The
earth slows in rotation when you hook up on your new slicks and
head east
now
40. You have to screw your slicks to the wheels
41. Your exhaust pipes
are larger in diameter than your driveline
42. Your fuel pump flows enough to
water a golf course
43. Your compression's high enough you could run diesel
fuel
44. The sparks from your wheelie bars start grass fires on the side of
the
road
45. Your engine idles at 2800 rpm
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/not
enuf horsepower yet
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Nov 1999 02:33:57 -0600
From: "Noah Erickson" <
noaherickson@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: removing carbon buildup with ATF???
This is a multi-part message
in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF37B6.B0BFD240
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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quoted-printable
Someone on the Southwest Supra list said something about
a magazine =
suggesting syphoning some automatic transmission fluid into your
intake =
by removing a vacuum line and putting it in a bottle of ATF, and
that it =
would remove carbon deposits. Does anyone have any idea what
they're =
talking about? That seems completely insane to me, but I've
been wrong =
at least twice before. Any ideas/opinions/experience on
this subject?
Noah Erickson
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/>=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D/\=3D<->=3D<->=3D=
<->=3D<->=3D<->
1991
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #
1954
_\/_
Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org
#dsm
/_/\_\ ICQ# 29810261
-
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF37B6.B0BFD240
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML
5.00.2614.3401"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Someone on
the Southwest Supra list =
said something=20
about a magazine suggesting
syphoning some automatic transmission fluid =
into=20
your intake by
removing a vacuum line and putting it in a bottle of ATF, =
and=20
that it
would remove carbon deposits. Does anyone have any idea
=
what=20
they're talking about? That seems completely insane to
me, but =
I've been=20
wrong at least twice before. Any
ideas/opinions/experience on this
=
subject?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Noah
Erickson<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/">
http://home.sprintmail=.com/~noaherickson/</A><BR>>=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<=
;->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D/\=3D=
<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<-><BR>1991=20
Mitsubishi
Galant VR-4
#=20
1954 &nb=
sp;=20
_\/_<BR>
Tsymyn on
irc.dsm.org =20
#dsm &nb=
sp; =20
/_/\_\
ICQ#
29810261</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2><BR></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF37B6.B0BFD240--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 10:52:46 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: removing carbon buildup with ATF???
Beer..also..has been
suggested.
Carbon buildup happens..cant be prevented.
Should you
find a _safe_ way to clear it, it'll just happen again. Not
to
worry.
If you have REALLY bad deposits where it causes a lot of
detonation from hot
spots..etc, you have a larger issue to solve than just
removing a fact of life.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Noah
Erickson [
mailto:noaherickson@sprintmail.com]
Sent:
Friday, November 26, 1999 12:34 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: removing carbon buildup with ATF???
Someone on the Southwest
Supra list said something about a magazine suggesting
syphoning some
automatic transmission fluid into your intake by removing a
vacuum line and
putting it in a bottle of ATF, and that it would remove
carbon
deposits. Does anyone have any idea what they're talking
about? That seems
completely insane to me, but I've been wrong at least
twice before. Any
ideas/opinions/experience on this
subject?
Noah Erickson
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/<
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/>
>=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=/\=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->
1991
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #
1954
_\/_
Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org
#dsm
/_/\_\ ICQ# 29810261
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Nov 1999 22:50:40 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag Trans UPGRADE research
I believe Chris Dotur, when he had his
VR4, had the conversion done, or was
thinking about having the conversion
done. Anyway, some shop I think from NJ
makes a conversion kit and I
think the price was somewhere in the
neighborhood of $10K, including the
tranny. This was because (1) the 6 speed
will not directly bolt up to the 5
speed engine and (2) the wheel/half shaft
position is different on both
trannies. Overall for the money and the
difference, IMHO, its
impractical to "upgrade."
Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Nov 1999 16:26:49 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost Control
>Paul;
>
>A short quick spike under
WOT is not really to be worried about. However it
>should not really jump
to 1.2 You should worry if this overboost occurs
>under load in the upper
gears and is not brief.
>
>As I advised you earlier with your model
of SAVC-R, the BADC will likely be
>optimal in the 65+ setting for your
application, as it is very near what I
>have. If you had mods, then I'd
expect you might be running it lower but
you
>are essentially a BC and
K&N. I know this is pretty much the same ole same
>ole, but a I bar
setting and a 65-70 BADC seem to be about ballpark for
your
>setup and
I am amiss to understand the 1.2 overspike. Do not set the
BAR
>higher!!
>
>Best
>
>Darc
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------repl
y
Mine
does exactly the same thing. However, I have start
duty cycle settings
which may be the cause, but it seems
to spool quicker with those settings at
+5-+10%. I have
watched my analog boost gauge with settings of 1
kg/cm2
which is really not 1 bar and is about 14.22 PSI. 1
bar=14.5
PSI and a mmHg=.0193 PSI. I used to think bar and
kg/cm2
were the same and happy they are not cause it means I have
a little
more to go and answers my question of why I have never
hit fuel cut with
stock injectors ever. I just got what felt like lean
surges that have
gone away since the plug gap was reduced.
Good Luck dialing in the SAVCr- I
think the spikes are normal
for its operation -maybe it has to do with how
far your pressure
sensor or most prob., your solenoid is from the T
fittings?
Sam 95 VR4 SAVCr, K&N, Stillen DP, A-pillar,
powerstops,
Greddy TT, plugs at .038
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:16:42 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wanted: Strut/spring opinions..and others
Im starting a
long-term investigation for a late spring purchase of struts
and
springs.
The overall goals are:
1) Not to necesarily lower
the car, if it does lower..thats ok, but im NOT
shopping specifically for how
low the car will be when Im done
2) Not to spend the farm on this..coil
overs are nice..but not for me
3) I need weight control for AutoX.
Period. Springs to hold the car, and
struts to STOP the wild
transitions the car just "has" on stock hardware. A
more
serious lb/in spring isnt a problem..its not like we think for a moment
the
car would ride smooth when we're done anyway.
3) Does anyone have
photos of the hood installs, that allow a front strut tower
brace..and a
source for the brace?
Of course, Team3S friendly shops will be used for
this purchase.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:17:52 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Getrag Trans Core Donation Address
- -----Original
Message-----From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
>I've gotten kind
responses from several people already
>willing to donate $20-$100 (well,
one person suggested
>$100 anyway :) toward buying a transaxle
core to
>send along to Metric Mechanic for them to tear
down,
>analyze, see how to fix. The money will all go
toward
>obtaining that transaxle core/paying Metric
Mechanic
>because the first job will be their hardest--they have to do
a
>stepwise teardown, writing notes and making up a
"rebuild
>manual" since Getrag releases NO info (of
course).
>Metric Mechanic has a website at
www.metricmechanic.com>that
explains alot of what they ALREADY do for BMW
>Getrag transmissions, which
suffer very similar synchro problems.
>
> Again, don't send money
you can't
>afford--this is a "donation to the cause" and the
reward will
>hopefully be BETTER transmission repair/synchro
fixes,
>a real and GOOD future for the worst problem our cars
have!
>
>My fingers get tired, so here is
>my address to send
"3S Getrag Fix Donations" to:
>
>Jack
Tertadian
>10010 South McGraw Drive
>Oak Creek, WI
53154
>
>I will be keeping an account of who sends what, but
until/
>unless this WORKS it must be considered a "leap of
faith"
>donation. Still, as a group I think this is sort of a
"noble"
>thing for us to band together to do...
>Once it
is done, I guess I'll publish a list of those who helped,
>as a
Recognition Award of sorts? :)
>
>Jack Tertadian
>Getrag
Fix Warrior
Sorry for leaving the entire message quoted, but I think
it's worth
looking at...
Listen up guys/gals... This is a great
project for those of you who
want to assure a source for these items for your
car in the future.
Remember that now neither Stealths or 3000GTs are being
made
anymore, and so Mitsu support will lessen (if that's possible)
as
time goes on. Jack's been at the forefront of this fight all
along,
for those of you who don't know that already. I don't even have
a
Getrag, but I believe in this enough to donate some money to
the
cause. I'm doing this just as a listmember and owner, since
it
would not be appropriate to do it as an Admin. But this is
a
recommended endeavor, IMO...
Now an Admin note:
Anybody replying
to Jack's post, PLEASE strip out Starnet's address
from the TO line, since it
was cross-posted to both lists.
Otherwise Darcy and I have to eat bounced
messages all day!
Thanks,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:17:47 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wanted: Strut/spring opinions..and others
At 11:16 AM
11/29/99 -0800, Mohler, Jeff wrote:
>Im starting a long-term investigation
for a late spring purchase of struts
and
>springs <snip> I need
weight control for AutoX. Period. Springs to hold
the car,
and
>struts to STOP the wild transitions the car just "has" on
stock hardware. A
>more serious lb/in spring isnt a problem..its not
like we think for a
moment the
>car would ride smooth when we're done
anyway.
>
I have the Ground Control adjustable suspension with
coil-overs and stock
struts, and it seems to work great. Haven't done an
auto-X since the
installation a coupla weeks ago, but I took a wild ride down
a bumpy/twisty
road, and it stuck pretty good on stock tires at stock
pressures.
Like you, I didn't buy it to just lower the car (I went down
as far as it
would go, though), but to cure my high speed push on road
courses. I figger
the adjustable part of the suspension will let me tune it
in. We'll see
next Spring.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Nov 1999 16:47:35 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost Control/ signs of danger?
On second thought, Roger is
probably right about the evils of the
boost spike. When I changed my
plugs recently, after about 3-months
of having overboost spikes in the
1.1-1.2 area, I noticed a curiosity that
has bothered me. All the plugs
came out a light brown color, except for #1
plug which had oil and carbon on
it. The rear intercooler pipe had a little
oil
drip out (maybe 1
tablespoon) and the intake ports on the lower plenum were
stained black with
oil. The car runs excellent though, and the idle is very
quiet
and
steady. I get steady vacuum numbers from the SAVCr also. This may
be
normal
for a 5 year old (60,000miles) car, but it might be signs of
some sort of
damage.
I am sending this info to the list, so others who
might have the same
experience
will know what they might see when changing
plugs-My question, Roger, or
anyone, "Is
this
normal?"
Sam 95 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 25, 1999 4:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
Control
>> My limited experience has been
>> that I
get a HELLUVA nice increase in torque in the 2500 to
>> 4000 rpm range
if the BADC is set up in the 65-80% range;
>> but I get an overboost
between 1.2 and 1.25 bar.
>
>Yes, this is true as the wastegates
stay fully closed and then open
quickly.
>
>> I read my
"datalogger" correctly this is a 'spike,' that goes away
>>
guickly. Is this a condition the engine can tolerate?
>
>No, I
wouldn't bet on this ! It will tolerate 1.1 bars spikes and 1.0 or so
steady
under full load.
>
>> Will the learning process eventually
eliminate this spike?
>
>As far as I know, the spike will stay due
to the fast build-up controlled
by the high BADC. This is not controlled by
the learning mechanism.
>
>> I also wondered what would
happen if I set the boost
>> to 1.2 bar, but reduced the BADC to maybe
50%, since with
>> stock turbos, I'll not exceed 0.8-0.9 bar at high
rpm anyway.
>
>This is simple : It will cost about $2000 - $4000
depending on the engines
damage. You can't tweak the system without getting a
drawback.
>The best solution is to find a BADC that allows you a little
overboost and
with the selflearning a steady boost of 1.00 bars. Do not boost
over 1 bar
as above this margin knock rises very quick and causes faster
damage to the
engine than the ECU can react to. It's in your hands as it was
in mine. I
got addicted to the immense torque and power the evil can make
when
increasing the boost limit. If you increase BADC or Gain (Blitz) both
cause
the turbos to boost way over 1.3 bars !!! The higher the initial boost
the
higher the boost hold at high rpm. But the higher torque you are getting
the
earlier knock appears on the rpm band. Not good !
>
>It's up
to you, but don't go for a too high setting, unless you want a to
do a
rebuild anyways, Then you have maybe another availability problem with
your
"datalogger", LOL.
>
>PS: Please note that the AVCR1 and
AVCR2 may NOT have the same settings and
the new style uses faster
electronics.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:04:35 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: removing carbon buildup with
ATF???
<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>>Someone on
the Southwest Supra list said
something about a magazine suggesting syphoning
some automatic
transmission fluid into your intake by removing a vacuum line
and putting
it in a bottle of ATF, and that it would remove carbon
deposits. Does
anyone have any idea what they're talking about?
</fontfamily><<<<<<<<
We used to do
this YEARS ago: We'd pour a can of ATF down the carburetor
while the engine
was running. It generated a huge cloud of white smoke,
but it seemed to clean
the valves and spark plugs in old flathead engines
and 312 Ford engines. I
dunno what it would do in a modern car. I thought
a good shot of NOS did the
same thing these
days.
<excerpt><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>>That
seems completely insane to
me, but I've been wrong at least twice
before.
</fontfamily></excerpt><<<<<<<<
I
was wrong once, too. I thought I was wrong about something and admitted
it.
Turns out I was right all along.
Rich
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:31:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Matt <
matt001@mail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 2
step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs
revealed.
Firstly I would like to say how grateful I am to be a member of
this list,
after the full interrogation that I received from Bob Forrest
because my
email was from a provider that provides free email (pull your
fucking head
in bob some of us might not be as rich as you, and save cash by
using free
email) I am finally here, Firstly I will share with you how to
solve all
your getrag problems in a couple of simple steps., please bare in
mind that
the following information has been released to me in secret by
head
engineers at mitsu developments, firstly you will need to remove your
getrag
6spd, remove this fully and discard you will not require any of
this
anymore, secondly install secondhand automatic transmission into car,
there
it is you getrag problems are now solved, you losers make me sick
spending
good cash of piece of shit cars that are known for all the expensive
and
pathetic fuck ups that come with them, what sort of car has a gearbox
that
explodes at 60000 miles every fucking time!! why would you waste your
money
on that , also your slow cars are almost impossible to boost
without
overboast spikes and other crap that comes with trying to work
a
"non-performance" engine., let me make one thing clear the
engines in your
cars are designed as a every day engine not to be worked
that's why even if
you spend good cash on them they are still slow and
shitty, I have spend
under $1000 on my Honda civic vtec and I can eat
3000gt's for breakfast
anyway anytime, I have raced over 20 of these cars and
totally pissed over
all of them so far. they are sooo slow its just not
funny, which brings me
to my next point that mitsi decided that they were too
slow and shitty and
fuck out too much that they wont make them anymore
hahahahha you guys suck,
my advice to you all... sell those fucking slow,
ugly, pathetic heaps of
shit that you are driving and visit Pattersons Honda
today to get a good
price on a Civic Vtec like mine! with my current
modifications I can hit
14.6 down the quarter mile, and when I upgrade my
airfilter and exhaust I am
expecting to be hitting the low 6 second marks,
lets see your heavy pieces
of shit do that !!!!! also what you people
fail to realize is that the
Honda civic was designed and based around Hondas
F1 car, making then a
totally awesome racing machine. So stop dreaming
about these miracle
inventions and fixes for your outdated and shitty cars
and fucking sell
them!!! and the likes of people like bob Forrest and
roger maybe you guys
should step back and look at your selves for a
second and you will see what
you are, just some computer nerds totally
addicted to trying to help other
pathetic people solve there shitty little
problems, some advice leave the
computer alone and go out and
socialize.
haha
- - Matt Wilkinson
- - 1990 Honda Civic
Vtec
- - modifications include : Honda racing sticker, racing gear stick
and
pedals, cell phone aerial, red racing stripe.
- - proposed
modifications : exhaust and air filter to take my car to the
extreme!!!! 6
second quarter
miles!!!
__________________________________________________
FREE Email
for ALL! Sign up at
http://www.mail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Nov 1999 22:53:29 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Transaxle removal-a few q's
In a message dated 11/24/99 7:47:13 PM
Eastern Standard Time,
rtr@vnet.net
writes:
<< . Find a machine shop that will grind your
flywheel so you get a good seat
for your new clutch. >>
BE
CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP (if you choose do to it). The MFGr does not
recommend resurfacing the flywheel on our cars. This is because of the
tremendous horsepower they produce. Thinning the flywheel through
resurfacing can cause the flywheel to rupture during high torque. When
I did
my clutch, I did not resurface the flywheel. Had it been burned or
warped, I
would have replaced it.
Joe 91TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:09:05 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs
revealed.
- -----Original Message-----From: Matt <
matt001@mail.com>
>Firstly I
would like to say how grateful I am to be a member of
this list,
-
-------snip------
Er... Correction: You WERE a member of this
list.
Now back to our regularly scheduled
program...
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:06:59 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs
revealed.
>>Firstly I would like to say how grateful I am to be a
member of
>this list,
>
>Er... Correction: You
WERE a member of this list.
>
Hear, hear! Way to go,
Bob!
Rich/old poop>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:23:24 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
Control/ signs of danger?
Hi Sam;
The light color on the plugs is
likely related to octane boost...it
discolors the electrodes like this. But,
the one plug which proved oily and
carboned up sounds like an indication
of problematic rings. Detonation may
have cracked/split them in this
cylinder. I expect Roger will advise more
accurately on this as he did a
rebuild when this happened and found oil in
the intercooler pipe as
well.
Best
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam
Shelat <
sshelat@erols.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 29, 1999 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Control/ signs
of danger?
>On second thought, Roger is probably right about the
evils of the
>boost spike. When I changed my plugs recently, after
about 3-months
>of having overboost spikes in the 1.1-1.2 area, I noticed
a curiosity that
>has bothered me. All the plugs came out a light
brown color, except for #1
>plug which had oil and carbon on it. The
rear intercooler pipe had a
little
>oil
>drip out (maybe 1
tablespoon) and the intake ports on the lower plenum were
>stained black
with oil. The car runs excellent though, and the idle
is
very
>quiet
>and steady. I get steady vacuum numbers
from the SAVCr also. This may be
>normal
>for a 5 year old
(60,000miles) car, but it might be signs of some sort of
>damage.
>I
am sending this info to the list, so others who might have the
same
>experience
>will know what they might see when changing
plugs-My question, Roger, or
>anyone, "Is
this
>normal?"
>
>Sam 95 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:32:23 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Two can play at that stupid game
Some of us just know how to play
better!
Thanks for kicking him off Bob!
The letter below I sent to
the admin at the idiots email provider. Not a
huge victory, but I had
nothing better to do. :-)
John Basol
System Management
Services
To Whom It May Concern:
Below is a copy of an email
message received by a mailing list I subscribe
to. No one on the list
welcomed this message, and many take offense. I
must insist that the
person's account be revoked due to harassment as stated
by YOUR terms and use
policy. See below:
Acceptable Use Policy
The following policy
governs the use of the Mail.com Service by User. User
will comply with the
terms and spirit of the Agreement.
(a) User shall not use the Mail.com
Service for spamming. Spamming
includes, but is not limited to (1) the
bulksending of unsolicited messages,
or the sending of unsolicited e-mails
which provoke complaints from
recipients, (2) the sending of junk mail, (3)
the use of distribution lists
that include people who have not given specific
permission to be included in
such distribution process, (4) posting
commercial ads to USENET newsgroups
that do not permit it, (5) posting
articles containing binary encoded data
to a non-binary newsgroups,
(6)excessive and repeated posting off-topic
messages to newsgroups,
(7)excessive and repeated cross-posting, (8) e-mail
harassment of another
Internet user or users, including but not limited to,
transmitting any
threatening, libelous or obscene material, or material of
any nature which
could be deemed to be offensive, and (9) the e-mailing of
age- inappropriate
communications or content to anyone under the age of 18.
Mail.com has in
place a spam monitoring and control system to reduce spam
sent to and from
Users. Mail.com shall make reasonable attempts to respond
to complaints made
by User regarding the receipt of spam or other harassing
e-mail or, in the
case of a User under the age of 18, complaints from such
User or from such
User's parent or guardian regarding the receipt of spam,
other harassing
e-mail, or e-mail containing any age-inappropriate
communications or content.
Thank you,
A copy of the harassing post follows my
signature.
John Basol
System Management
Services
Firstly I would like to say how grateful I am to be a member
of this list,
after the full interrogation that I received from Bob Forrest
because my
email was from a provider that provides free email (pull your
fucking head
in bob some of us might not be as rich as you, and save cash by
using free
email) I am finally here, Firstly I will share with you how to
solve all
your getrag problems in a couple of simple steps., please bare in
mind that
the following information has been released to me in secret by
head
engineers at mitsu developments, firstly you will need to remove your
getrag
6spd, remove this fully and discard you will not require any of
this
anymore, secondly install secondhand automatic transmission into car,
there
it is you getrag problems are now solved, you losers make me sick
spending
good cash of piece of shit cars that are known for all the expensive
and
pathetic fuck ups that come with them, what sort of car has a gearbox
that
explodes at 60000 miles every fucking time!! why would you waste your
money
on that , also your slow cars are almost impossible to boost
without
overboast spikes and other crap that comes with trying to work
a
"non-performance" engine., let me make one thing clear the
engines in your
cars are designed as a every day engine not to be worked
that's why even if
you spend good cash on them they are still slow and
shitty, I have spend
under $1000 on my Honda civic vtec and I can eat
3000gt's for breakfast
anyway anytime, I have raced over 20 of these cars and
totally pissed over
all of them so far. they are sooo slow its just not
funny, which brings me
to my next point that mitsi decided that they were too
slow and shitty and
fuck out too much that they wont make them anymore
hahahahha you guys suck,
my advice to you all... sell those fucking slow,
ugly, pathetic heaps of
shit that you are driving and visit Pattersons Honda
today to get a good
price on a Civic Vtec like mine! with my current
modifications I can hit
14.6 down the quarter mile, and when I upgrade my
airfilter and exhaust I am
expecting to be hitting the low 6 second marks,
lets see your heavy pieces
of shit do that !!!!! also what you people
fail to realize is that the
Honda civic was designed and based around Hondas
F1 car, making then a
totally awesome racing machine. So stop dreaming
about these miracle
inventions and fixes for your outdated and shitty cars
and fucking sell
them!!! and the likes of people like bob Forrest and
roger maybe you guys
should step back and look at your selves for a
second and you will see what
you are, just some computer nerds totally
addicted to trying to help other
pathetic people solve there shitty little
problems, some advice leave the
computer alone and go out and
socialize.
haha
* Matt Wilkinson
* 1990 Honda Civic Vtec
*
modifications include : Honda racing sticker, racing gear stick and
pedals,
cell phone aerial, red racing stripe.
* proposed modifications : exhaust and
air filter to take my car to
the extreme!!!! 6 second quarter
miles!!!
__________________________________________________
FREE Email
for ALL! Sign up at
http://www.mail.com <
http://www.mail.com>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm <
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:47:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs
revealed.
I have to say, it was an entertaining email.. :)
-
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Merritt
wrote:
> >>Firstly I would like to say how grateful I am to be a
member of
> >this list,
> >
> >Er...
Correction: You WERE a member of this list.
> >
> Hear,
hear! Way to go, Bob!
>
> Rich/old poop>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:56:02 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Question, and statement.
First off, I would like to say that I forwarded
that profane, abusive
letter to:
abuse@mail.com. I encourage all of you to do
the same. Enough
complaints, and he will be kicked off.
But enough about
that jerk....I have a question.
I recieved my ATR high-flow cat today, and
noticed it was missing
something. Flanges to bolt it in place. How have you
other ATR users
gotten around the problem? I have a custom cat-back exhaust,
utilizing
the 3" pipe from a VR-4, and I would like to know if it's
worth having
all new downpipes fabricated. Any input is
appreciated.
Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:09:17 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <
jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: I used MT-90, now it's harder to shift.
Well I changed all the
fluids this weekend and I used MT-90 in the
transfer
case and the
transmission. I used 75W90 gear oil in the rear axle. Now
I find
that when it's cold, it's harder to shift than before. I didn't
want to
use a
blend of the MTL and MT-90 because the cars specs call for a 90W
oil,
and the
MTL is only an 80W. I filled the trani, transfer case,
and rear diff
until they all
spilled out, so I know they are full.
Once it warms up, I think it
might be easier
to shift, but when it's cold
it's very notchy even if I rev match.
Anyway else run
into this.
Thanks,
Jeff
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama
Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:19:45 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Downpipe Question (was: Question, and
statement)
Michael...
The ATR system is designed as a slip fit.
This works if you buy their entire
exhaust, from downpipe to bumper. However,
even though I bought their
downpipe and test pipe, I still wanted to be able
to exchange the test pipe
and high flow cat for emissions testing. As a
result, I had to have five
flanges welded on, one at the end of the ATR
downpipe, one at each end of
the test pipe, one at each end of the high flow
cat. In all cases, I had the
shop weld on three bolt flanges that match the
front end of the GReddy
exhaust. Cost was less than $50. It's a great swap
process, MUCH easier than
dropping the entire exhaust to remove the slip fit
test pipe.
BTW...I since gave up on the exhaust completely and have a
Flowmaster
muffler (with a three bolt flange) attached directly to the end of
the
downpipe. Yes, it's loud, but not unbearably, and it took another ~30
pounds
off the car. The worst part was the engine torque, which caused
the
Flowmaster to slap up against the underside of the car when decelerating.
My
solution fits in the bailing wire category, I used a sheet of asbestos
on
top of the muffler, followed by a 8" X 14" section of old tire,
strapped on
each end with muffler clamps. Works great. Not very pretty, but I
don't
spend much time under there. :-)
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker [
mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Monday,
November 29, 1999 1:56 PM
To:
mattrt@hotmail.comCc:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'Subject:
Team3S: Question, and statement.
<snip>
I recieved my ATR
high-flow cat today, and noticed it was missing
something. Flanges to bolt it
in place. How have you other ATR users
gotten around the problem? I have a
custom cat-back exhaust, utilizing
the 3" pipe from a VR-4, and I would
like to know if it's worth having
all new downpipes fabricated. Any input is
appreciated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:20:28 -0500
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I used MT-90, now it's harder to shift.
> MTL is only an
80W. I filled the trani, transfer case, and rear diff
> until they
all
> spilled out, so I know they are full. Once it warms up, I
think it
I'm pretty sure oyu're only supposed to fill the tranny to hte
"peek hole" and not
until it pours out of hte top or you risk
damaging the tranny. Someone care to
elaborate? My understanding is
there are three "Holes' in the tranny.. on for
draining.. the
"peek" hole or whatever, and the fill hole.. and you fill until the
oil
comes out of the peek hole.
- --Steve "Loco3kGT"
Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Nov 1999 11:31:13 EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Will 2nd
gen. stock VR4 rims fit 1st gen. VR4?
I've found someone wanting to sell
a set of polished '94 stock VR4 rims. Will
these fit my '91 VR4? I believe
the 2nd gen rims have a little more room
inside for the larger 2nd gen.
brake calipers - no problem, but I'm wondering
if there are any other
changes (offset the same?).
Thanks for any info.
Paul
Klusman
p.s. Still otherwise looking for two stock '91-'93 VR4 rims in
good condition.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:11:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise
<diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
I installed a bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of problems!
Here's
what i did... I took the vacume line coming off of the top (near
the
driver) side of the Y pipe and cut that and stuck the middle barb of
the
1156A part on the linegoing to the plastic H looking thing and one of
the
other barbs on the one coming from the Y-pipe. Originally when I went
out
for a drive the boost hit 1.12 at the same time I hit my rev limiter.
When
I pulled over and lowered the boost, I lowered it about 1/2 turn. In
1st
gear, I hit .95 boost, but at around 5500rpm the car acted like the
rev
limiter was kicking in, then stoped around 6200 rpm and reved like
normal.
In 2nd gear, boost only measured to .5 or so BAR. In 3rd, it would
spike
to .85 then QUICKLY go down to .3-.4BAR. After a few more adjustments,
Ive
got it at about .92 BAR and i stil lget that wwierd rev kick at
around
55rpm when under WOT in 1st and 2nd gear. In the rest of my gears, I
dont
get that... What the hell is going on? At one point, I floored it and
the
car actually died.. The thing hadnt fallen off, but once I reset the
ECU
and started it up, it acted fine.. Could someone give me some advice?
Have
I screwed something up royally? It just doesnt hoold the boost with
ANY
sort of predictability.. it seems random as hell! ACK HELP!!!
-
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:23:05 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
> I installed a bleeder valve today
and i'm having alot of
> problems!
Ugh... Does anyone else
dislike it when people don't follow conversations? People here unanimously
have said bleeder valves suck for exactly the reasons you mention here.
Those reasons being: poor boost control and boost spikes.
> Have I
screwed something up royally? It just doesnt hoold
> the boost with ANY
sort of predictability.. it seems
> random as hell! ACK HELP!!!
Get
a real boost controller. Either a ball-restrictor type of manual
controller, or an electronic controller. Don't waste your time with this
rinky-dink bleeder stuff on your expensive car.
Have you regapped your
plugs to .034"? If not, that's the likely cause of the
stumbling. The other likely cause is that you are going over 1.0 bar with
no knock control, which is causing either severe detonation or fuel
cut.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:56:43 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Downpipe Question (was: Question, and statement)
Chris is right,
although when I ordered my ATR DP with highflow cat and
testpipe, I also got
the slip in flange that then bolts to the stock
exhaust. It often depends
where you are getting this stuff and in this case
Nexus was good (at least in
the beginning). You may have a look at my
homepage
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html under the exhaust
installation
page. On one pic you should see the ATR cat and the flange. You
may get the
same flange again to bolt onto the stock dp but I think the
assembly will be
too long then. The dp also came with two clamps and I only
had to cut the dp
a little to make everything fit the stock exhaust or Borla
cat back. On my
car, ATR dp, ATR high flow cat, the reducement flange and
two clamps did the
whole work :) I can simply exchange the cat with the
testpipe that has the
same diameter and lenght.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> The ATR
system is designed as a slip fit. This works if you buy their
entire
>
exhaust, from downpipe to bumper. However, even though I bought their
>
downpipe and test pipe, I still wanted to be able to exchange the
test
pipe
> and high flow cat for emissions testing. As a result, I had
to have five
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:00:45 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
Argh #2 !!!!!!
> I installed
a bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of problems! Here's
> what i
did... I took the vacume line coming off of the top (near the
> driver)
side of the Y pipe and cut that and stuck the middle barb of the
> 1156A
part on the linegoing to the plastic H looking thing and one of the
>
other barbs on the one coming from the Y-pipe.
Installed wrong ! The
bleeder should never be installed in the feeding line !!!!
The actuators may
act wavey !
> for a drive the boost hit 1.12 at the same time I hit my
rev limiter.
rev limiter is at 7000 !
> get that... What the
hell is going on? At one point, I floored it and the
> car actually
died..
Typical sign of the ECU is kicking in and switches the injectors
off ... better
known as fuel cut in first stage and what you got was probably
full cut off....
deadly for the engine !
> The thing hadnt fallen
off, but once I reset the ECU
> and started it up, it acted fine.. Could
someone give me some advice? Have
> I screwed something up royally? It
just doesnt hoold the boost with ANY
> sort of predictability.. it seems
random as hell! ACK HELP!!!
If so, you are running more boost than you
read. You are on teh dark side and in
your case ... go back stock, totally
stock and get a good boost controller.
Roger
93'3000GT TT .. been
there and paid for that
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:29:46 -0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Red Line oil
Hello everyone, this is my first post in this list,although
I have been
a member for about 2 months.
I get plenty of enjoyment just
reading my e-mails and learning from all
of you.
Now for the question,
I would like to know what grade(weight)gear oil to
use on my baby?
I have
always used BG syncroshift, but I would like to change to Red
Line oils due
to availability
and convenience. I hear that they are both good oils to use,
any
experiences in area wuold be appreciated.I would also like to ask if
any
of you know where I can get a custom made carbon fiber high risen
hood,
simply because I'm trying to reduce as much weight as I can
without
having to gut the interior of my car.With a high risen hood I'm
hoping
to get a strut bar for the front end.
Thank you all for you
time
Boris
91 Stealth RT/TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:39:35 -0500
From: Joshua <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets fro m mitsi
techs revealed.
I personally emailed him and asked him for one
race. The winner would win
the other's car and also the loser would
announce publicly that he lost and
in the type of car. He hasn't
written me back :(
Joshua Prince
3si#0137
joshua@unconundrum.com-----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise [
mailto:diranged@hearme.com]
Sent:
Monday, November 29, 1999 4:47 PM
To: Merritt
Cc: Bob Forrest;
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!!
secrets
from mitsi techs revealed.
I have to say, it was an
entertaining email.. :)
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Merritt wrote:
> >>Firstly I
would like to say how grateful I am to be a member of
> >this
list,
> >
> >Er... Correction: You WERE a member
of this list.
> >
> Hear, hear! Way to go, Bob!
>
>
Rich/old poop>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:40:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
Where SHOULD it be installed
then?
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Tue, 30
Nov 1999, R.G. wrote:
> Argh #2 !!!!!!
>
> > I
installed a bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of problems! Here's
>
> what i did... I took the vacume line coming off of the top (near
the
> > driver) side of the Y pipe and cut that and stuck the middle
barb of the
> > 1156A part on the linegoing to the plastic H looking
thing and one of the
> > other barbs on the one coming from the
Y-pipe.
>
> Installed wrong ! The bleeder should never be installed
in the feeding line !!!!
> The actuators may act wavey !
>
>
> for a drive the boost hit 1.12 at the same time I hit my rev
limiter.
>
> rev limiter is at 7000 !
>
> > get
that... What the hell is going on? At one point, I floored it and the
>
> car actually died..
>
> Typical sign of the ECU is kicking in
and switches the injectors off ... better
> known as fuel cut in first
stage and what you got was probably full cut off....
> deadly for the
engine !
>
> > The thing hadnt fallen off, but once I reset the
ECU
> > and started it up, it acted fine.. Could someone give me some
advice? Have
> > I screwed something up royally? It just doesnt hoold
the boost with ANY
> > sort of predictability.. it seems random as
hell! ACK HELP!!!
>
> If so, you are running more boost than you
read. You are on teh dark side and in
> your case ... go back stock,
totally stock and get a good boost controller.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT .. been there and paid for that
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:42:33 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
Usually, the bleeder valve is
installed on the lower hose of the boost control
solenoid. This is the
right-most solenoid on the firewall across from the
throttle body. You
can see a picture of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm(note:
Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to
eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:47:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a bit
when I leave for work.
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Usually, the
bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost control
>
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous $2
Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
(note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
>
> Lower your spark plug gap
to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> --
> I'm
surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San
Diego
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:55:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get
stock boost, no matter what I set
the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
- --Matt
Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for
work.
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429
3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
>
> Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost
control
> > solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the
firewall across from the
> > throttle body. You can see a picture
of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
> (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> >
> > Lower your
spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> > --
> > I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
> >
> > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> >
General Atomics
> > San Diego
> >
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:57:38 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Red
Line oil
Hi Boris;
Redline MT 90 is generally regarded as the
fluid of choice for the tranny,
although if in really cold areas, you might
consider the GM synthetic which
is reportedly also very good. Redline super
heavy duty is used in the
transfer case and rear end by a lot of members and
reports are great on
these applications. I cannot help you with the high rise
fiber hood
information although I know fiber hoods are available...I'm just
not certain
if they are high rise types. I'm certain you'll get your answer
to this
though.
Best
Darc
- -----Original
Message-----
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 29, 1999 4:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: Red Line
oil
>Hello everyone, this is my first post in this list,although I
have been
>a member for about 2 months.
>I get plenty of enjoyment
just reading my e-mails and learning from all
>of you.
>
>Now
for the question, I would like to know what grade(weight)gear oil to
>use
on my baby?
>I have always used BG syncroshift, but I would like to change
to Red
>Line oils due to availability
>and convenience. I hear that
they are both good oils to use, any
>experiences in area wuold be
appreciated.I would also like to ask if any
>of you know where I can get a
custom made carbon fiber high risen hood,
>simply because I'm trying to
reduce as much weight as I can without
>having to gut the interior of my
car.With a high risen hood I'm hoping
>to get a strut bar for the front
end.
>Thank you all for you time
>Boris
>91 Stealth
RT/TT
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:03:10 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs
revealed.
>under $1000 on my Honda civic vtec and I can eat 3000gt's
for breakfast
You couldn't eat my 3kgt base for any meal... I'll pink
slip you on that,
bro.
Also... that's beside the point. Honda
Civic's are butt ugly... so.. what's
your point? After I win your pink
slip? I'd have your car turned into a
small
cube at my local
junkyard and use at as yard art. It would be an extreme
upgrade as it
would look SO much nicer in that form...
>
>- Matt
Wilkinson
>- 1990 Honda Civic Vtec
>- modifications include : Honda
racing sticker
EWWWW!!! A Honda Racing Sticker?
That add a few
HP????
racing gear stick and pedals
awesome... more intricate
mods. Your mommy
help you install them?
cell phone
That a
turbo cell phone... or an NA?
aerial, red racing stripe.
a REAL
aerial racing stripe? <shudder!!!!>
>- proposed
modifications : exhaust and air filter to take my car to the
>extreme!!!!
6 second quarter miles!!!
an air filter and exhaust is gonna make
that Honda do a 6.0 quarter?
It'll make it faster than a Hennesey
Viper? Amazing... That'd be the
fastest ugly piece of toilet paper on
the planet... congrats..
Where do these people come from????
<sigh>
- -Gil
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:14:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness! (another quick question)
Another
thing, when I was installing the bleeder, I noticed that behind my
battery
there is a black plastic connection (for some sort of
electronics) that
isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
- --Matt
Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter
what I set
> the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
>
> --Matt
Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov
1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
> > Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a
bit when I leave for work.
> >
> > --Matt Wise
> >
*NOC Admin*
> > (650) 429 3751
> >
> > On Mon, 29
Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >
> > > Usually, the
bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost control
> >
> solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> > > throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous
$2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > > installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
> > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > >
> >
> Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM
hesitation.
> > > --
> > > I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
> > >
> >
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> > > General Atomics
> >
> San Diego
> > >
> >
> > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:32:57 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS Update
First of all, thanks goes out to whomever told Rob
Smith that I had not
received my "compensation"
check. Rob contacted me and immediately
corrected the
problem.
Rob also offered a full refund on the clutch that I
have. Since he
contacted me, I'm going to install the RPS clutch.
Again...
I'll keep everyone posted.
Brad
Check out my home
page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 18:07:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness! (another quick question)
Ok
question.. I double checked that the valve was letting air out of the
3rd
barb by plugging one and blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
works.
Now, Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
showing
how it is right now..
Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under
the plastic clear
H
connector..
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
seen from
looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
Hose from
Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of the top of the H
connector,
right next to the bottom selanoid hose...
Everything sound right? Please
tell me something is screwed up.. cuz I
basically cant raise my boost right
now..
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29
Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind my
> battery there is a black plastic
connection (for some sort of
> electronics) that isnt connected to
anything... Anyone have any ideas?
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC
Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
>
> > Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost,
no matter what I set
> > the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
> >
> > --Matt Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
> > (650) 429
3751
> >
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
>
> > > Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for
work.
> > >
> > > --Matt Wise
> > > *NOC
Admin*
> > > (650) 429 3751
> > >
> > > On
Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > >
> > > >
Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost
control
> > > > solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid
on the firewall across from the
> > > > throttle body. You
can see a picture of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > >
> installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
> > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > > >
> > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the
upper RPM hesitation.
> > > > --
> > > > I'm
surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
>
> > >
> > > > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> >
> > General Atomics
> > > > San Diego
> > >
>
> > >
> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
> >
> >
> >
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 18:59:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost madness -- a VERY WIERD update!
I decided to try swapping
the hoses going to the selanoid, and guess what,
NO CHANGE! Nothign
changed... still .38-.40 boost.. So then I disconnected
the bottom hose from
the selanoid (the one w/ the bleeder on it) and guess
what, instead of
getting 1.5bar, I got a max of .5 bar.. definately felt
like more power, but
not the 1+ bar I would expect.. so now I challenge
everyone.. Show me who is
smartest here :) I'm in the bay area if anyone
wants to look at this.. what
in the hell is going on here?
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> Ok question.. I
double checked that the valve was letting air out of the
> 3rd barb by
plugging one and blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
> works. Now,
Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
> showing
how it is right now..
>
> Selanoid --- (TOP hose) ->
somewhere under the plastic clear H
>
connector..
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
> seen
from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
>
> Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of the top of the
H
> connector, right next to the bottom selanoid hose...
>
>
Everything sound right? Please tell me something is screwed up.. cuz I
>
basically cant raise my boost right now..
>
> --Matt Wise
>
*NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt
Wise wrote:
>
> > Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind my
> > battery there is a black plastic
connection (for some sort of
> > electronics) that isnt connected
to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
> >
> > --Matt
Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
> > (650) 429 3751
> >
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> >
> > > Well
i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter what I set
> >
> the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
> > >
> > > --Matt
Wise
> > > *NOC Admin*
> > > (650) 429 3751
> >
>
> > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> > >
> > > > Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for
work.
> > > >
> > > > --Matt Wise
> >
> > *NOC Admin*
> > > > (650) 429 3751
> > >
>
> > > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > >
> > > > > Usually, the bleeder valve is
installed on the lower hose of the boost control
> > > > >
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> > > > > throttle body. You can see a picture of
the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > > > > installation
at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
> > > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > > >
>
> > > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to
eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> > > > > --
> >
> > > I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
> > > > >
> > > > > Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
> > > > > General Atomics
> > >
> > San Diego
> > > > >
> > > >
>
> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:00:21 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh!
Help! Boost Madness! (another quick question)
Matt;
I assume
you want the hoses back to stock configuration.
1) Top line from solenoid
goes to the H connector.
2) Bottom line from solenoid goes down to rear
turbo
3) Line from back of Y goes to H
connector.
Best
Darc
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
To: Ken
Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 29, 1999 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
>Ok question.. I double checked
that the valve was letting air out of the
>3rd barb by plugging one and
blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
>works. Now, Is it possible I
reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
>showing how it is right
now..
>
>Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the
plastic clear
H
>connector..
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
>seen from
looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the
engine.
>
>Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of
the top of the H
>connector, right next to the bottom selanoid
hose...
>
>Everything sound right? Please tell me something is
screwed up.. cuz I
>basically cant raise my boost right
now..
>
>--Matt Wise
>*NOC Admin*
>(650) 429
3751
>
>On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
>>
Another thing, when I was installing the bleeder, I noticed that
behind
my
>> battery there is a black plastic connection (for
some sort of
>> electronics) that isnt connected to anything...
Anyone have any ideas?
>>
>> --Matt Wise
>> *NOC
Admin*
>> (650) 429 3751
>>
>> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
>>
>> > Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut
get stock boost, no matter what I
set
>> > the bleeder to. ANy
ideas?
>> >
>> > --Matt Wise
>> > *NOC
Admin*
>> > (650) 429 3751
>> >
>> > On Mon,
29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>> >
>> > > Great!
Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
>> >
>
>> > > --Matt Wise
>> > > *NOC
Admin*
>> > > (650) 429 3751
>> > >
>>
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>> >
>
>> > > > Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the
lower hose of the
boost control
>> > > > solenoid.
This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across
from the
>>
> > > throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous $2
Wal-Mart
aquarium valve
>> > > > installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>>
> > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
>> > >
>
>> > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate
the upper RPM
hesitation.
>> > > > --
>> > >
> I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for
1
special!
>> > > >
>> > > > Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
>> > > > General Atomics
>> > >
> San Diego
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:02:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost madness -- a VERY WIERD update!
FYI, someone just suggested
that it could be an exhaust problem.. This
sounds very plausable considering
that i know my exhaust is stuck in tour
mode.. Coudl that be it?
-
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt
Wise wrote:
> I decided to try swapping the hoses going to the
selanoid, and guess what,
> NO CHANGE! Nothign changed... still .38-.40
boost.. So then I disconnected
> the bottom hose from the selanoid (the
one w/ the bleeder on it) and guess
> what, instead of getting 1.5bar, I
got a max of .5 bar.. definately felt
> like more power, but not the 1+
bar I would expect.. so now I challenge
> everyone.. Show me who is
smartest here :) I'm in the bay area if anyone
> wants to look at this..
what in the hell is going on here?
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC
Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
>
> > Ok question.. I double checked that the valve was
letting air out of the
> > 3rd barb by plugging one and blowing on the
other barb.. so the bleeder
> > works. Now, Is it possible I reversed
the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
> > showing how it is right
now..
> >
> > Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere
under the plastic clear H
> > connector..
>
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
> >
seen from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
> >
> > Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT
of the top of the H
> > connector, right next to the bottom selanoid
hose...
> >
> > Everything sound right? Please tell me
something is screwed up.. cuz I
> > basically cant raise my boost right
now..
> >
> > --Matt Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
>
> (650) 429 3751
> >
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> >
> > > Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind my
> > > battery there is a black
plastic connection (for some sort of
> > > electronics) that
isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
> > >
>
> > --Matt Wise
> > > *NOC Admin*
> > > (650) 429
3751
> > >
> > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well i did that.. this tmie I
jsut get stock boost, no matter what I set
> > > > the bleeder
to. ANy ideas?
> > > >
> > > > --Matt
Wise
> > > > *NOC Admin*
> > > > (650) 429
3751
> > > >
> > > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt
Wise wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Great! Thanks...
i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
> > > > >
> > > > > --Matt Wise
> > > > > *NOC
Admin*
> > > > > (650) 429 3751
> > > > >
> > > > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > > >
> > > > > > Usually, the bleeder valve
is installed on the lower hose of the boost control
> > > > >
> solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> > > > > > throttle body. You can see a picture
of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > > > > >
installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
> > > > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > >
> > >
> > > > > > Lower your spark plug gap to
0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin
Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
> > > > > >
> >
> > > > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> > > > > >
General Atomics
> > > > > > San Diego
> > >
> > >
> > > > >
> > > > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
> >
> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:03:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness! (another quick question)
Really?
THe top line goes to the H connector? if so, then where on the
H-connecter?
which connection?
Where does the Y-line go to the H connector?
Thanks
alot..
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29
Nov 1999, Darcy Gunnlaugson wrote:
> Matt;
>
> I assume
you want the hoses back to stock configuration.
>
> 1) Top line
from solenoid goes to the H connector.
> 2) Bottom line from solenoid goes
down to rear turbo
> 3) Line from back of Y goes to H connector.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
> To: Ken
Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 6:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help!
Boost Madness! (another quick question)
>
>
> >Ok
question.. I double checked that the valve was letting air out of the
>
>3rd barb by plugging one and blowing on the other barb.. so the
bleeder
> >works. Now, Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow?
Here's a diagram
> >showing how it is right now..
> >
>
>Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the plastic clear
H
> >connector..
>
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
> >seen
from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
>
>
> >Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of the top
of the H
> >connector, right next to the bottom selanoid
hose...
> >
> >Everything sound right? Please tell me
something is screwed up.. cuz I
> >basically cant raise my boost right
now..
> >
> >--Matt Wise
> >*NOC Admin*
>
>(650) 429 3751
> >
> >On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> >
> >> Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind
> my
> >> battery there is a
black plastic connection (for some sort of
> >> electronics)
that isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
>
>>
> >> --Matt Wise
> >> *NOC Admin*
>
>> (650) 429 3751
> >>
> >> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
> >>
> >> > Well i did that.. this
tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter what I
> set
> >> >
the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
> >> >
> >> > --Matt
Wise
> >> > *NOC Admin*
> >> > (650) 429
3751
> >> >
> >> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Great! Thanks... i'll
try that in a bit when I leave for work.
> >> > >
>
>> > > --Matt Wise
> >> > > *NOC Admin*
>
>> > > (650) 429 3751
> >> > >
> >>
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >> >
>
> >> > > > Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on
the lower hose of the
> boost control
> >> > > >
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across
>
from the
> >> > > > throttle body. You can see a
picture of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart
> aquarium valve
> >> >
> > installation at
>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
>> > > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> >>
> > >
> >> > > > Lower your spark plug gap to
0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM
> hesitation.
> >> > >
> --
> >> > > > I'm surprised you stopped me officer,
Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
> special!
> >> > >
>
> >> > > > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>
>> > > > General Atomics
> >> > > > San
Diego
> >> > > >
> >> > >
>
>> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>> > >
> >> >
> >> >
>
>>
> >> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>>
> >
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Nov 1999 23:59:56 -0800
From: "nketo" <
nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question, and statement.
Hey Mike,
The ATR high flow cat
is designed to bolt onto "their" exhaust system, that
has
a
straight pipe (no flanges) off of the main cat and the tip off the
cat-back
exhaust system.
It works great if u have the ATR downpipe as well; this
system is designed
for ATR ONLY use.
You'll have to cut n' weld it for
it to work.
If it's possible to return it, you might wanna look into the
random tech.
high flow cat;
I believe this one's a direct bolt on to the
factory flanges.
For a custom job, you can have twin 2.5 inch pipes from
each turbo back
(expensive and hard,
I know) feeding each side of the
exhaust seperately.
Good luck!
- -Noble
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
To: mattrt@hotmail.com
<
mattrt@hotmail.com>
Cc:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 1:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Question, and
statement.
>First off, I would like to say that I forwarded that
profane, abusive
>letter to: abuse@mail.com. I encourage all of you to do
the same. Enough
>complaints, and he will be kicked off.
>But enough
about that jerk....I have a question.
>I recieved my ATR high-flow cat
today, and noticed it was missing
>something. Flanges to bolt it in place.
How have you other ATR users
>gotten around the problem? I have a custom
cat-back exhaust, utilizing
>the 3" pipe from a VR-4, and I would
like to know if it's worth having
>all new downpipes fabricated. Any input
is appreciated.
>
>Matt
>#311
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:28:24 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh!
Help! Boost Madness! (another quick question)
Matt;
It does
not really matter which nipple you hook up to on the H connector .
I
would expect you'd hook the lines up in the most convenient manner so
the
hoses are routed well and do not have bends or kinks in them from
convoluted
routing. For example, the nipple nearest the solenoid would
likely be the
best choice to hook that (upper) hose up to, and the one
nearest the Y would
be the likely candidate for that hose. The other 2 hoses
on the H connector
should not have been unplugged or rerouted--right!! Now
that leaves the
bottom hose off of the solenoid which runs down to the nipple
on top of the
rear turbo. That's a fun one and if replacing, you'll likely
have to pull
the battery and washer bottle to get room to get at
it.
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
To: Darcy
Gunnlaugson <
wce@telus.net>
Cc: Ken
Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 29, 1999 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
>Really? THe top line goes to
the H connector? if so, then where on the
>H-connecter? which
connection?
>Where does the Y-line go to the H
connector?
>
>Thanks alot..
>
>--Matt Wise
>*NOC
Admin*
>(650) 429 3751
>
>On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
>
>> Matt;
>>
>> I assume
you want the hoses back to stock configuration.
>>
>> 1) Top
line from solenoid goes to the H connector.
>> 2) Bottom line from
solenoid goes down to rear turbo
>> 3) Line from back of Y goes to H
connector.
>>
>> Best
>>
>>
Darc
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
>> To:
Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 6:09 PM
>> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh!
Help! Boost Madness! (another quick
question)
>>
>>
>> >Ok question.. I double checked
that the valve was letting air out of the
>> >3rd barb by plugging
one and blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
>> >works. Now,
Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a
diagram
>>
>showing how it is right now..
>> >
>> >Selanoid
--- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the plastic clear H
>>
>connector..
>>
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector
as
>>
>seen from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the
engine.
>> >
>> >Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb
on the LEFT of the top of the H
>> >connector, right next to the
bottom selanoid hose...
>> >
>> >Everything sound right?
Please tell me something is screwed up.. cuz I
>> >basically cant
raise my boost right now..
>> >
>> >--Matt
Wise
>> >*NOC Admin*
>> >(650) 429 3751
>>
>
>> >On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>>
>
>> >> Another thing, when I was installing the bleeder, I
noticed that
behind
>> my
>> >> battery there is a
black plastic connection (for some sort of
>> >>
electronics) that isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any
ideas?
>> >>
>> >> --Matt Wise
>>
>> *NOC Admin*
>> >> (650) 429 3751
>>
>>
>> >> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>>
>>
>> >> > Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock
boost, no matter what I
>> set
>> >> > the bleeder
to. ANy ideas?
>> >> >
>> >> > --Matt
Wise
>> >> > *NOC Admin*
>> >> > (650) 429
3751
>> >> >
>> >> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > > Great!
Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
>> >>
> >
>> >> > > --Matt Wise
>> >> >
> *NOC Admin*
>> >> > > (650) 429 3751
>>
>> > >
>> >> > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken
Middaugh wrote:
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
> Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of
the
>> boost control
>> >> > > >
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the
firewall
across
>> from the
>> >> > > >
throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous
$2
Wal-Mart
>> aquarium valve
>> >> > > >
installation at
>>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>>
>> > > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
>>
>> > > >
>> >> > > > Lower your spark
plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM
>> hesitation.
>>
>> > > > --
>> >> > > > I'm surprised you
stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for
1
>>
special!
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > >
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>> >> > > > General
Atomics
>> >> > > > San Diego
>> >> >
> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
>> > >
>> >> >
>> >>
>
>> >>
>> >> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
>>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
>>
>> >
>> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
>>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
>
>>
>>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:51:20 -0600
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
WARNING: Bad Mobil 1 Oil
I found this on
http://www.blueovalnews.com/daily_posting.htm.
Might want
to check any oil you bought recently.
.Bad Mobil-1 5W30 oil
still on store shelves. Mobil oil is advising
consumers NOT to use 5/30 oil
with manufacturer codes of X19K9A3, X20J9A3,
X21K9A3, X22K9A3 and X26K9A3.
The codes can be found on the bottom of the
products
container.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:04:30 -0500
From: Kermit Burroughs <
mymach5@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question, and statement.
nketo wrote:
> Hey
Mike,
>
> The ATR high flow cat is designed to bolt onto
"their" exhaust system, that
> has
> a straight pipe (no
flanges) off of the main cat and the tip off the
> cat-back exhaust
system.
> It works great if u have the ATR downpipe as well; this system
is designed
> for ATR ONLY use.
>
> You'll have to cut n' weld
it for it to work.
>
I'm sure I'm not alone, but I have an ATR DP
and CAT, with a Borla cat back. No welding
necessary.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Nov 1999 03:04:30 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Getrag Trans Core Donation Address
Listen up guys... This
is a great project for those of you who want
to assure a source for these
items for your car in the future.
Remember that now neither Stealths or
3000GTs are being made
anymore, and so Mitsu support will lessen (if that's
possible) as
time goes on. Jack's been at the forefront of this fight
all along,
for those of you who don't know that already. I don't even
have a
Getrag, but I believe in this enough to donate some money to
the
cause. I'm doing this just as a listmember and owner, since
it
would not be appropriate to do it as an Admin. But this is
a
recommended endeavor, IMO...
Now an Admin note:
Anybody replying
to Jack's post, PLEASE strip out Starnet's address
from the TO line, since it
was cross-posted to both lists.
Otherwise Darcy and I have to eat bounced
messages all day!
Thanks,
Forrest
- -----Original
Message-----From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
To: Sirius 3000GT
Mail List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>;
stealth@starnet.net
<
stealth@starnet.net>
>I've
gotten kind responses from several people already
>willing to donate
$20-$100 (well, one person suggested
>$100 anyway :) toward
buying a transaxle core to
>send along to Metric Mechanic for them to tear
down,
>analyze, see how to fix. The money will all go
toward
>obtaining that transaxle core/paying Metric
Mechanic
>because the first job will be their hardest--they have to do
a
>stepwise teardown, writing notes and making up a
"rebuild
>manual" since Getrag releases NO info (of
course).
>Metric Mechanic has a website at
www.metricmechanic.com
>that explains alot of what they ALREADY do for
BMW
>Getrag transmissions, which suffer very similar synchro
problems.
>
> Again, don't send money you can't
>afford--this
is a "donation to the cause" and the reward will
>hopefully be
BETTER transmission repair/synchro fixes,
>a real and GOOD future for the
worst problem our cars have!
>
>My fingers get tired, so here
is
>my address to send "3S Getrag Fix Donations"
to:
>
>Jack Tertadian
>10010 South McGraw Drive
>Oak
Creek, WI 53154
>
>I will be keeping an account of who sends what,
but until/
>unless this WORKS it must be considered a "leap of
faith"
>donation. Still, as a group I think this is sort of a
"noble"
>thing for us to band together to do...
>Once it
is done, I guess I'll publish a list of those who helped,
>as a
Recognition Award of sorts? :)
>
>Jack Tertadian
>Getrag
Fix Warrior
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:23:01 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell"
<Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Apexi AFC for sale
New
style AFC for sale. Asking 300. obo.. still in the
box.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 04:58:17 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
> Really? THe top line goes to
the H connector? if so, then where on
> the H-connecter? which
connection? Where does the Y-line go to
> the H connector?
If you are really committed to making the bleeder work, then you should
eliminate as many other sources of boost control as possible. The easiest
way to do this is to take the line that goes from the "H" connector to
the boost control solenoid on the firewall and remove it from the solenoid and
plug it into the input of your bleeder valve. The bleeder should take the
place of the stock solenoid and be able to flow more air out of the wastegate
hoses since the inlets/outlets should be larger than those on the
solenoid.
Leaving the solenoid in the loop will allow double-bleeding to
occur and may contibute to additional boost level instability. Keep a very
close eye on the boost gauge, and don't let it go over 1.0 bar!
Apologies
for my earlier post expressing my frustration with the question... Bad day
for me at work. Usually I try to be more helpful :-)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:47:37 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost madness -- a VERY WIERD
update!
> FYI, someone just suggested that it could be an exhaust
problem.. This
> sounds very plausable considering that i know my exhaust
is stuck in tour
> mode.. Coudl that be it?
No ! Although your
pre-cats and main cat may be clogged !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:57:03 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
Hey, hey, slowing dow is curing
the problems !!!
First GO BACK STOCK completely. This is :
1.
Running the hose from the y-pipe ellbow directly to the 4-way connector
2.
Running the other hose from the 4-way connector to the lower poer of the stock
boost solenoid (top or bottom, they are exchangeable)
3. Make sure the other
hose from the boost solenoid goes directly down to the intake infront the rear
turbo
4. Run the car and make sure boost is stock. (measured with an
aftermarket boost meter !!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
then ...
5. cut the lower hose
the leads into the solenoid valve
6. Put the bleeder in between the cut hose.
It must work the way that pressure will be released out of the bleeder from the
H-connector side of the connection.
7. Drive the car and do not overboost
more than 15 psi.
If this also gives bad results, give up and install a
boost controller .... or save money for a possible damage ! Please note, the
bleeder valve setup is the most dangerous one you can have !!!
I hope
you'll choose the boost controller side of the dark
moon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:00:20 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag
problems!! secrets from mitsi techs revealed.
Ok, guys, a quick admin
message : the Honda-sticker-boy is history and we should follow our rules not to
post more stuff like that (i.e. comments) to the list.
Thanks and ....
happy boosting ;-)
Roger for the Admins
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:04:55 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi
tech...
Entertaining indeed. I wonder how much horsepower he gained
with the racing
sticker and cell phone aerial mods? ANy
thoughts? heHe!!
Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:54:25 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Alien
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF3AFF.BD48CE80
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Hey, guys,
Just a short reminder here,
Team-- As much as many of us would like
to unload on this dude, please
remember our policy of no flames, no
fluff, and no chat allowed... It's
strictly a Tech Group, and a
gentleman's/ladies' forum at that. Our
'alien visitor', Matt was
summarily unsubscribed (read banned, it you
like). If in *absolute*
need of writing a flame, do it, send it to me
as a practice run for
appraisal, and hopefully by then you'll be over
it.
Thanks.
Darc-- Admin, Team3S
-
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF3AFF.BD48CE80
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV>Hey,
guys,<BR><BR>Just a short reminder here, Team-- As much
=
as many=20
of us would like<BR>to unload on this dude, please
remember our policy =
of no=20
flames, no<BR>fluff, and no chat
allowed... It's strictly a Tech Group,
=
and=20
a<BR>gentleman's/ladies' forum at that. Our
'alien visitor', Matt=20
was<BR>summarily unsubscribed (read banned, it
you like). If in=20
*absolute*<BR>need of writing a flame, do
it, send it to me as a =
practice run=20
for<BR>appraisal, and
hopefully by then you'll be
over=20
it.<BR><BR>Thanks.<BR><BR>Darc-- Admin,
Team3S</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF3AFF.BD48CE80--
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Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:11:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: I
used MT-90, now it's harder to shift.
MT-90 will do this, especially in
cooler climates. I live in Phoenix, AZ
and MT-90 in the gearbox does
make shifting notchy unless the car is fully
warmed up, especially during the
"winter" months.
I think MTL is adequate for cooler temps
although I do use MT-90. MTL is
kind of watery when it is 110+ F
outside.
As to the transfer case, I do not recommend using anything but
Redline Heavy
Duty Shockproof.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Well I changed all the fluids this
weekend and I used MT-90 in the
> transfer
> case and the
transmission. I used 75W90 gear oil in the rear axle. Now
> I
find that when it's cold, it's harder to shift than before. I
didn't
> want to use a
> blend of the MTL and MT-90 because the cars
specs call for a 90W oil,
> and the
> MTL is only an 80W. I
filled the trani, transfer case, and rear diff
> until they all
>
spilled out, so I know they are full. Once it warms up, I think it
>
might be easier
> to shift, but when it's cold it's very notchy even if I
rev match.
> Anyway else run into this.
>
>
Thanks,
> Jeff
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Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:14:53 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
removing carbon buildup with ATF???
Small amounts of diesel oil can also
act as a detergent in a gasoline
engine. I do not know how kindly O2
sensors and the like take to this
though, and since many ATF products contain
teflon, I doubt O2 sensors would
be happy with it either.
There are
sensor friendly products specifically designed to help reduce
carbon
buildup.
Water injection helps reduce the amount of buildup, but it
likely won't help
after the fact. As Jeff says, it is another issue at
hand.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Beer..also..has been
suggested.
>
> Carbon buildup happens..cant be
prevented.
>
> Should you find a _safe_ way to clear it, it'll just
happen again. Not to
> worry.
>
> If you have REALLY bad
deposits where it causes a lot of
> detonation from hot
>
spots..etc, you have a larger issue to solve than just removing a
> fact
of life.
>
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Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:46:28 +0000
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: team3s: Getrag questions
MY '94 RT/TT is getting very notchy and
sometimes difficult to shift. Also I
am now able to push the shifter beyond
5th (further to the right) and must
now be careful to gently feel for the
fifth gear as opposed to just pushing
the stick to the right-hand stop and
putting it forward.
I've got a warranty on the tranny so
my question is two-fold. Is the
Getrag breaking down and if so what may be
wrong. If it's just "starting" to
go bad how do I make sure it will
fail enough so that I can get warranty
work done on it?
-
---------------------------------------------------
Ian
Marks
'http://home.earthlink.net/~ianmarks/
-
---------------------------------------------------
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Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:48:54 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
team3s: Getrag questions
The first thing to do when this starts happening
is have the cables for the
shift adjusted. I've had this happen a few
times (even after the car came
back from a dealer...) and proper adjustment
and lubrication of the cables
fixed the problem.
If it is still
misbehaving after this, it could be time for a fluid change.
If new fluid
doesn't resolve the issue you may then wish to have it checked
out for actual
transmission troubles.
Making it fail will require abuse. This may
cost you a clutch and flywheel
machining (or a new one) which likely will not
be covered by the warranty.
Best to check first. I don't recommend
abusing the car to make it break for
warranty purposes, but rather pushing
the warranty company to do the right
thing if indeed the tranny is failing as
it is. Getting the dealership on
your side helps a LOT in this
case.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> MY '94 RT/TT is getting very notchy and
sometimes difficult to
> shift. Also I
> am now able to push the
shifter beyond 5th (further to the right) and must
> now be careful to
gently feel for the fifth gear as opposed to
> just pushing
> the
stick to the right-hand stop and putting it
forward.
> I've got a warranty on the tranny so my
question is two-fold. Is the
> Getrag breaking down and if so what may be
wrong. If it's just
> "starting" to
> go bad how do I make
sure it will fail enough so that I can get warranty
> work done on
it?
>
>
>
---------------------------------------------------
> Ian Marks
>
'http://home.earthlink.net/~ianmarks/
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Nov 1999 16:53:41 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: team3s: Getrag questions
Hi Ian,
I would start with
looking at the shift linkage and cables. Doesn't sound to
me like it's the
gearbox itself that is the problem.
As you still are under warranty then
you better just take it too the dealer
and let them look at it. Don't accept
any bullshit like "it's supposed to be
that way" from
them.
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Ian Marks <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
MY '94 RT/TT
is getting very notchy and sometimes difficult to shift. Also I
am now able
to push the shifter beyond 5th (further to the right) and must
now be careful
to gently feel for the fifth gear as opposed to just pushing
the stick to the
right-hand stop and putting it forward.
I've got a
warranty on the tranny so my question is two-fold. Is the
Getrag breaking
down and if so what may be wrong. If it's just "starting" to
go bad
how do I make sure it will fail enough so that I can get warranty
work done
on it?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
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