--
From:
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(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #344
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest Wednesday,
November 24 1999 Volume 01 : Number
344
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:08:09 EST
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
Hello all,
While
driving my car today (93 Stealth base), I noticed a small 'thump'
noise
(almost like a very dull pop) when going over bumps every now and
again.
I haven't looked into it yet, but does anyone have any
ideas?
The car has new front struts (GAB) and new springs all the way
around
(Ground Control).
TIA!
-
-Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:14:40 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
Id like to say bad strut,
dead/missing/busted bushing, loose ball joint,
..overall something is loose
somewhere in there.
Sounds like a broad statement, but..thats what it
is.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dg B [
mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 23, 1999 10:08 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
Hello all,
While driving my car today (93 Stealth base), I noticed a small 'thump'
noise (almost like a very dull pop) when going over bumps every now and
again.
I haven't looked into it yet, but does anyone have any
ideas?
The car has new front struts (GAB) and new springs all the way
around
(Ground Control).
TIA!
-
-Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:12:03 -0800
From: Todd Leveck <
todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
check your tires for a nail or
screw head...
todd
93 vr4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dg
B [
mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 23, 1999 10:08 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
Hello all,
While driving my car today (93 Stealth base), I noticed a small 'thump'
noise (almost like a very dull pop) when going over bumps every now and
again.
I haven't looked into it yet, but does anyone have any
ideas?
The car has new front struts (GAB) and new springs all the way
around
(Ground Control).
TIA!
-
-Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:25:13 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: New flow bench
numbers
I just got my new flow bench numbers
Intake side
283.5 Exhaust side 236
The stock flows are below to
compare :)
Arty 91 VR-4
Valve
Intake Exhaust
lift
0.100"
86 80
0.200"
165 164
0.300"
230 191
0.400"
246 195
0.500"
249 196
0.600"
251 196
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:33:50 -0800
From:
gil_lee@usa.netSubject: Team3S:
springs
what is the general consensus for lowering the stock 92 3000GT
VR4 with
(active) electronic controlled suspension safely (won't damage
electronics
or bottom out), comfortably (best balance of ride and handling),
and
affordably (<$250). Car is mostly for aggressive street
use:
I'm guessing the best to worst are in this order:
Eibach
ProKit
RSR
Ground Control
Intrax
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:59:39 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
That's too funny. I've got my
'95 3KGT base in the shop today for
what sounds exactly like your dull
popping noise. This is going
to wind up being a strut mount problem...
I'll know more in about
an hour... stay tuned, film at 11:00
-
-G
>Hello all,
>
> While driving my car
today (93 Stealth base), I noticed a small 'thump'
>noise (almost like a
very dull pop) when going over bumps every now
and
>again.
>
>I haven't looked into it yet, but does anyone
have any ideas?
>
>The car has new front struts (GAB) and new
springs all the way around
>(Ground
Control).
>
>TIA!
>
>-Dennis
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:29:02 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Total Seal Rings
- Info.
I had asked my engine builder about using the "Total Seal
Rings" for my motor.
According to him...
He had dynoed other motors
before & after the installation of these rings.
The dyno showed NO HP
Improvement. Only on a Leak Down Test did it show any
advantage for blow
bye.
Just thought I'd pass it on.
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:48:46 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: springs
Gil...
I have the Eibach progressive springs
and have been VERY pleased with them.
They resulted in a 1.125" drop. I
don't think any more of a drop would leave
the car streetable. I have no
point of comparison with the other brands so I
can't tell you if they're any
"better" than others.
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
gil_lee@usa.net [
mailto:gil_lee@usa.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 23, 1999 10:34 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: springs
what is the general consensus for lowering the stock 92
3000GT VR4 with
(active) electronic controlled suspension safely (won't
damage electronics
or bottom out), comfortably (best balance of ride and
handling), and
affordably (<$250). Car is mostly for aggressive
street use:
I'm guessing the best to worst are in this
order:
Eibach ProKit
RSR
Ground Control
Intrax
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 16:29:21 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: My Getrag is back among the living
Just got my VR4 back from the
Mitsu dealer. As you may or may not recall, I
took it in for leaks, and they
were going to replace it with a new one
under warranty.
Turned out
they did not replace the Getrag. The dealer said that the tranny
is just
blowing fluid out the top vent, and Mitsubishi has a fix for it. It
involves
adding some sort of check valve and a longer vent tube. It's a $5
fix that
requires four hours of labor just to get to the place where the
fix is made.
Seems that Monteros have the same problem.
In any case, my
Getrag did not die, fail, or suffer from leaky seals. Just
an overactive
vent.
I will, of course, continue to check for leaks. I have a great
Mitsu dealer
(Zimmerman Ford/Mitsu in Cedar Rapids) but I've learned not to
trust Mitsu
corporate.
BTW: I played with the idea of trying
some of your dragstrip starts and
full power shifts. I said to myself,
"myself, if they are replacing the
tranny anyway, what's the harm in
running it up to the rev limiter and
dropping the clutch?" But I
couldn't bring myself to abusing machinery that
way. I don't know how you
drag strip people do it. Especially when there is
a $3,000 tranny at
stake.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/still on my 2nd Getrag.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:03:52 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: springs
Awesome... There may be a set of Eibach's in my future...
<just don't
tell my wife... koff..>
I just
got back from the Mitsu dealer and it is, indeed, a strut mount.
Going
in on Pearl Harbor day to get it replaced.
- -G
>I have the
Eibach progressive springs and have been VERY pleased with them.
>They
resulted in a 1.125" drop. I don't think any more of a drop
would
leave
>the car streetable. I have no point of comparison with the
other brands so
I
>can't tell you if they're any "better"
than others.
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
gil_lee@usa.net
[
mailto:gil_lee@usa.net]
>Sent:
Tuesday, November 23, 1999 10:34 AM
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>Subject:
Team3S: springs
>
>what is the general consensus for lowering the
stock 92 3000GT VR4 with
>(active) electronic controlled suspension safely
(won't damage electronics
>or bottom out), comfortably (best balance of
ride and handling), and
>affordably (<$250). Car is mostly for
aggressive street use:
>
>I'm guessing the best to worst are in this
order:
>
>Eibach ProKit
>RSR
>Ground
Control
>Intrax
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 00:26:34 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Total Seal Rings - Info.
> I had asked my engine builder about
using the "Total Seal Rings" for my motor.
> According to
him...
> He had dynoed other motors before & after the installation of
these rings.
I've never seen the same results of an engine before and
after a teardown just
because there are sooo many factors that are
different.
> The dyno showed NO HP Improvement. Only on a Leak Down
Test did it show any
> advantage for blow bye.
Do they say that
they will get horsepowers just with the rings ? I'd not count
on this but if
I need new rings or even forged pistons I'd install them to make
sure I have
good rings that can withstand the increased pressure and stress. The
power
then comes from the more boost I can run with them :) I'm sure there
are
others that are as good as the TS but some of my Camaro buddies used them
and I
only heard good stories (piston broke, rings where
ok).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:07:15 -0600
From: "Chris Chiasson" <
cender@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front fascia repainting?
There is a shop in
Baton Rogue, Louisiana called Haney ... they have two
divisions (and two
locations) one is the body shop and the other is tire and
car
care...
I don't know about the tire/car care place,
but the body shop was very
competent job of getting rid of a dent in my
liftgate and some scratches on
my rear bumper. They first sucked the dent out
as best they could, then
filled and sanded it with (sounded like)
"bond-o". They also filled and
sanded the scratches in the plastic.
After they did that, they somehow color
matched the triple color pearl white
paint and used that to paint the sanded
parts. In case there were minor
imperfections in the match, they also
blended the paint gradually out towards
the rest of the body (I guess). This
was very expensive (~$800), but the car
looks like a million bucks again.
Chris Chiasson
1991 RT/TT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@warpedweb.com>
To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 23, 1999 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia
repainting?
>
> That's interesting... I had my '95 3KGT base
touched up a few months ago.
> My
> body man told me he never wanted
to EVER do that again... <smile!> But it
> came
> out
perfect. You can't tell where the new paint starts and the
old
begins.
> He had the
> car for over a week and he only
charged me $125.00. Outrageous, huh? I
> think he
> only
charged me that because I've brought a lot of people in there,
> everybody
in my
> family uses him and he put me out for over a week. I think
he planned on
> charging
> me $400. I had all the dings, rock
bruises and scratches taken off the
> front fascia,
> a scratch
taken out of one side skirt and a door totally repainted....
>
-G
>
>
> >Well I can answer a few of your questions. I just
got my '93 Pearl R/T
> >repainted, and I searched and searched, but I
got this answer from Mitsu
> >dealers, Dodge dealers and paint shops.
They don't make that shade of
pearl
> >paint anymore (very
unfortunately) I had to get my whole car repainted
> >(2,500) with a
Dupont equivalent (which is unfortunately more white, but
> >still with
a pearl tinge) Yes it is possible to blend a pearl paint job,
>
but
> >it is very hard to do, you must have a VERY good paint man with
alot of
> >experience! But like I said, they don't make that shade
anymore. Looks
like
> a
> >completely new paint job for any of
us pearl 3000/Stealth owners if we
> aren't
> >satisfied w/ the
minor scratches, dings and dents. Oh well. Good luck!
> (P.S.
>
>yes they can fix the minor dings in plastic, by filling them
and
smoothing
> >them with plastic putty, but they cannot remove
them.)I got mine done and
> it
> >looks beautiful. Check it out
at....
> >
http://members.aol.com/xxfiretamerxx/index.html>
>
Hope I helped a little!
> >
>
>
ED
>
>
XxFiretamerxX@aol.com>
>
'93 Stealth R/T
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 22:43:07 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
I just sent Matt an e-mail so I
guess I am signed up also.
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 23:10:40 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: a little testy are we?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
'Sam Shelat' <
sshelat@erols.com>
Cc: Bob Forrest
<
bf@bobforrest.com>; Chris
Winkley
<
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>; Darcy
Gunnlaugson <
wce@bc.sympatico.ca>; Jim
Matthews
<
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>;
Mikael Akesson <
vr4@bahnhof.se>;
Rich LeRoy <
rleroy@pacifier.com>; Roger Gerl <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Tuesday, November 23, 1999 8:44 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: plugs then boost
controller?
>Sam...
>
>Please, in the future, make
responses like this privately to the sender. I
>don't remember seeing
Olegs' original post on the list, but it appears that
>his question to you
was imbedded in a post about modifications. If it
>wasn't, he also should
have sent a specific question to a specific person
>(you) privately, not
to the list. There are over 500 of us now, and we
don't
>have the time
(or desire) to follow your private, non-technical
>conversation.
Thanks.
>
I never know if its a Team 3s post or not-and about
non-technical stuff on
the list,
I think things like paint jobs and body
work are pretty non-technical and
some
people are not interested
either. In addition, the tons of posts about
active aero
from people
not qualified to answer any of those questions. However, if
people on
this list buy from a
certain company or individual, and have problems. I
think it IS important
that
people on the list be made aware- such as
when people have problems
with a certain clutch from a certain group purchase
that was referenced for
days.
In fact nothing came out of it, and it was a
lot of waste IMHO, but I made
no comment
because it may have helped
someone out in making a buying decision. In
fact, my dealer
tells me
the best clutch is stock and most people with aftermarket suffer
from tranny
problems
later. I appreciate your concern with these non-technical
discussions and
apologize for accidentally
posting back to team 3s.
Maybe, however, the rest of you will be more wary
when dealing with
those
people and maybe my posting will help someone and that was the point of
my
reply.
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 00:16:33 -0800
From:
gil_lee@usa.netSubject: Team3S: boost
control
so what the story with the boost control, manual vs.
electronic.
for manual, i've heard everything from the $2 bleeder valve
to the $50
redline boost controller and $100 extreme performance boost
control. adding
a $50 boost gauge puts you out between $52 and $150,
plus installation
should be very easy.
for electronic, the apex SAVC-R
sounds like the best, beating out HKS, Blitz
and Profec by incredible amount
of tuning ability and the ultra cool
display. but at ~$450 and up, how
much better is it really than the manual
controller? installation must
be infinitely more complex as well, but is it
all worth it? also where
are most people mounting their SAVC-R? the SAVC-R
unlike the other EBCs
has the boost gauge built in right?
plus are a blow off valve and turbo
timer really recommended with either
boost control methods, or can most of us
live with out it?
i'm leaning towards the manual if it can give me
balanced, safe and
consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like the limit if
you have
everything else stock). i have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK,
stock engine,
exhaust, spark plug setup, etc.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:08:42 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: boost control
> for electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like
the best, beating out HKS, Blitz
> and Profec by incredible amount of
tuning ability and the ultra cool
> display. but at ~$450 and up,
how much better is it really than the manual
> controller?
Yes,
because you have an active element in the loop that is able to adjust the way
the WGs are controlled.
> installation must be infinitely more
complex as well, but is it all worth it?
It is even less complicated as
some manual BC do need to have some hoses to routed to the valve and to be able
to control it it is mounted inside the car. On the AVC the main difference is
additional cabeling. It is the onyl one that needs so much. The Blitz has only
power conenction but a small hose must run into the cabine as it senses boost in
the control unit.
> also where are most people mounting their
SAVC-R? the SAVC-R
> unlike the other EBCs has the boost gauge built
in right?
Not unlike other EBCs ! Almost every EBC has a boost gauge
because they have to sense boost to be able to control it. Otherwise the loop
will be out of control. With the AVC the mounting position isn't that easy and
also I have seen nicer boost gauges than the display.
> plus are a
blow off valve and turbo timer really recommended with either
> boost
control methods, or can most of us live with out it?
The stock bypass
valve is often getting weaker over the years and starts leaking. Also some of us
are experiencing the koncking goose with a larger filter and I therefore
recommend an aftermarket or at least a 1st gen BOV. Turbo timer is up to you. On
my car the Blitz Dual timer works really good as it senses boost and vacuum and
calculates the cool down phase on the fly. During driving you can see how it in-
and decreases the time. But I only need it for about 10% of the switch offs.
This because there is some easy driving till to my door necessary and this also
cools the car down. During testing and datalogging I have seen the timer go up
to 58 seconds afterwards !
> i'm leaning towards the manual if it can
give me balanced, safe and
> consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like
the limit if you have
> everything else stock). i have a 92 3KGT/TT
w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
> exhaust, spark plug setup,
etc.
It's the cheap mode and works good. But You also have to get an
aftermarket boost gauge and installation of the hose is as necessary as for an
EBC ! ÎMHO, spending a lot of money for a great car and then trying to
save each $$ afterwards is not the right way. If you want to have reliable
power, then you have to pay for it.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 08:43:18 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New flow bench numbers
I'm curious, the new numbers you quoted,
at what lift were those readings
for? Also, does anyone know what the
lift is on the stock cams?
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From:
Aso8@aol.com [
SMTP:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 23, 1999 12:25 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comCc:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: New flow
bench numbers
I just got my new flow bench numbers
Intake side
283.5 Exhaust side 236
The stock flows are below to
compare :)
Arty 91 VR-4
Valve
Intake Exhaust
lift
0.100"
86 80
0.200"
165 164
0.300"
230 191
0.400"
246 195
0.500"
249 196
0.600"
251 196
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 06:51:10 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: boost control
for electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like the
best, beating out HKS, Blitz
and Profec by incredible amount of tuning
ability and the ultra cool
display. but at ~$450 and up, how much
better is it really than the manual
controller? installation must be
infinitely more complex as well, but is it
all worth it? also where are
most people mounting their SAVC-R? the SAVC-R
unlike the other EBCs has
the boost gauge built in right?
- ---
Manual: Cheap, easy to
install. Slow reaction, difficult to impossible to
'fix' boost at a
light to show some kid up. Also wont compensate for
weather,
temperature..etc. "Max" boost levels wont be the
same from day to day/week to
week.
Electonic: Expensive, NOT that
hard to install. No other controller can build
boost quicker other than
removing WG hose completely, tunable instantly, some
are programmable to act
in various ways, some with boost/vac guage.
plus are a blow off valve and
turbo timer really recommended with either
boost control methods, or can most
of us live with out it?
- ---
BOV: Required once you start to up
boost on some models.
TT: Required on _any_ car with a turbo, its the best
$100 insurance policy you
can buy to protect your turbo(s).
i'm
leaning towards the manual if it can give me balanced, safe and
consistent
increased boost (15psi sounds like the limit if you have
everything else
stock). i have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
exhaust,
spark plug setup, etc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 08:31:41 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost
control
Hi Gil
I assume it's Gil from your handle but it would
help if you signed your
postings.
>so what 's the story with the
boost control, manual vs. electronic.
Rhetorical
question.
>
>for manual, i've heard everything from the $2 bleeder
valve to the $50
>redline boost controller and $100 extreme performance
boost control.
adding
>a $50 boost gauge puts you out between $52 and
$150, plus installation
>should be very easy.
Easy is a relative
word with these cars, but I assume that since you use it,
you are well versed
with the setup and therefore should not have a problem
with the instalation.
If you encounter difficulties, just ask, as we have a
wealth of friendly
people who have helped each other instal BC's from
opposite ends of the
country/world.
>for electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like the best,
beating out HKS,
Blitz
>and Profec by incredible amount of tuning
ability and the ultra cool
>display. but at ~$450 and up, how much
better is it really than the manual
>controller? installation must
be infinitely more complex as well, but is
it
>all worth it? also
where are most people mounting their SAVC-R? the
SAVC-R
>unlike
the other EBCs has the boost gauge built in right?
As has been posted,
some members have purchased for $400 or just under this
figure. So shop
around or contact those who got good deals and posted on
them. It (SAVC-R)
has a digital Boost Gauge Feature built in. Mine is
mounted in the armrest
for Stealthiness. Others have them on the dash, in
vents,
etc.
>plus are a blow off valve and turbo timer really recommended
with either
>boost control methods, or can most of us live with out
it?
Always allow for cool down before shutting down your car (pop the
hood when
possible) and unless the BOV is acting up, you should need neither.
A minute
or less cooldown is advantageous to keep oil from baking in
intercooler
lines, etc. Those who do not allow for cool down and who do not
do frequent
oil changes on TT's, suffer engine/bearing wear, and particularly
complain
of the ticking noise--solved most often with a reputable oil flush
product.
>
>i'm leaning towards the manual if it can give me
balanced, safe and
>consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like the
limit if you have
>everything else stock).
Lean away but remember
the balance, safeness and consistancy will depend on
your eye, your ear, and
your skill at tuning.
i have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock
engine,
>exhaust, spark plug setup, etc.
You'll have to regap
regardless of which one you choose. And like others who
own this great car,
I'd recommend an EBC. If you want to go real cheap you
can buy an aquarium
valve for a buck and really save money, but as I noted
in a past post,
cheap fixes or cheap mods, are ones that will likely be the
most expensive.
Putting things into perspective---ask yourself how much you
spend on gas to
drive your car in a one month period, and then ask yourself
if you put in
Regular gas to save money. The amount you spend on gas in that
period, and
the answer to the last portion of the question should determine
what amount
you will spend on the BC ;-)
Best
Darc
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Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:44:19 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: boost control
> Manual: Cheap, easy to install.
Slow reaction, difficult to
> impossible to 'fix' boost at a light to
show some kid up.
> Also wont compensate for weather,
temperature..etc. "Max"
> boost levels wont be the same
from day to day/week to
> week.
I really have to disagree that you
get slow reaction. With the
Hallman-style manual controller, boost
response is at least
as good as with an electronic controller, and control
is
similarly good. I never had to adjust my Hallman controller
even
with the weather changing from -30 F to +95 F. I set
it and forgot
about it, the boost gauge always displayed a
rock solid boost
level.
> BOV: Required once you start to up boost on some
models.
> TT: Required on _any_ car with a turbo, its the best $100
> insurance policy you can buy to protect your turbo(s).
Turbo
Timer isn't required, but a good idea if you come
flying into your driveway
and shut down the car right away.
If you drive "normal" for the
last 1/4 mile or so, you'll
be fine. The turbos are liquid and oil
cooled, so unless
you beat on the car right before you shut it down,
you
don't have much to worry about. It depends on your
driving
habits more than anything else.
> i'm leaning towards the
manual if it can give me balanced, safe and
> consistent increased boost
(15psi sounds like the limit if you have
> everything else stock). i
have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
> exhaust, spark plug
setup, etc.
Don't let these guys scare you away from a manual
controller
if you don't need to be changing your boost level often.
You do
need a good boost gauge (and should have one in a very
visible location
anyway), but a well designed ball and spring
type manual controller is just
as good as an electronic
controller for a lot less money.
People that
spent the big money for an electronic controller
tend to recommend
them. I currently have an electronic
controller because it came with
the car, but if I was in the
market to buy something on my own, I would get
the
Hallman controller again.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.comEveryone
is going to have their own opinion, but you need to
figure out what your
personal needs are - as that will have
the most bearing on which way you
should go. Just don't do a
little aquarium valve or something like
that, as those do
require a lot of adjustment and the control and spoolup
are
not as good.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:04:09 -0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: boost control
I am going to add my 2 cents to this discussion
since I have been
researching building my own boost controller. Manual
boost controllers like
the Hallman and Redline are nothing like the bleeder
valve mod or a EBC.
They do not allow ANY pressure to go to the waste gate
before the set boost
is reached. They do this by a spring and ball type
valve. Two things are
good about this system.
1. Boost builds
up in the quickest time possible since the waste gate could
never creep open
prematurely. I am not saying that EBC's allow the waste
gates to open
prematurely, but I suspect they do if they can not bleed air
off quickly
enough.
2. They are not affected by weather as others have said.
Weather does not
affect the spring in the valve so the thing will open at the
same set
pressure all the time.
I have talked with a couple of manual
boost controller users and they have
no changes with weather, and little or
no overshoot. One thing I do not
like about the manual boost controller
is that there must be a hole drilled
between the valve and the WG to allow
pressure to bleed off when the valve
closes. If you do not bleed off
this residual pressure the WG will remain
open even after boost has
dropped. I wonder if the bleed hole (1/16" on the
Hallman) hurt
performance of the WG?
Now my plans for a manual boost controller include a
unit to adjust set
pressure and integral gauge which can be mounted in the
interior of the car.
The residual pressure mentioned above would be bled off
with a solenoid
which should be faster than a 1/16" hole. Also
Roger will be interested
that it will also be able to log data via a 0-5V
signal. Now if I could
only find an affordable graph printer to attach
to the unit. The unit has a
peak hold function also. I should be
getting everything I need by the end
of Dec. and will report back on how it
goes.
Later,
Kevin Schappell
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Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 11:10:10 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Getrag Trans UPGRADE research
AWD Getrag Sufferers:
I've discussed
our synchro and repair problem (can't get
parts at all anymore) with a trans
repair shop named
Metric Mechanic. They ALREADY do upgrades to
Getrags
on BMW's which work well, and are respected in the
industry.
Since my synchro/parts supply dried up because Getrag sold
the
rebuild business to CRS, and CRS got ALL the repair parts in
Getrag
USA inventory, and CRS will NOT sell parts to anybody
nor sell the transaxles
to anybody but Mitsubishi or Dodge, we
are totally screwed...until
now.
I sent Jim Rowe, owner of Met. Mech., a new set of synchros
for a
5-speed (same as 6 speed's essentially) and he analyzed
them. He is
sure he can fix/markedly improve the 3-4, 5-R/5-6
synchro mechanism so it
works FAR longer/better than stock,
just as they do with the BMW
Getrags.
The 1-2 synchro is different in construction, and he needs
a
transmission to analyze it fully.
- --->DOES ANYBODY HAVE A 5 or
a 6-Speed TRANS that
grinds but is otherwise good, that they do not NEED
for
about 3 months (car stored for winter?) so over winter Metric
Mechanic
can tear
down, analyze, FIX, see if/what can be done for the
1-2
synchro as well? They would send it back to be installed in
a
car to see how well it works. It will cost about the cost
of a rebuild,
they are not going to do any rebuilds for free
(of course! The first
time around, they will be taking notes,
making a "repair manual"
with how-to for FUTURE use so
they can start PRODUCTION of our UPGRADED
Getrag
5 and 6 speed transmissions for EVER AFTER!
They indicate that
the synchronizers work much more efficiently,
they LAST way longer because
the 24 machining steps (at least on
BMW's) they do force the synchros to work
more positively and so
they keep synchronizing far longer than stockers have
given up due
to a little wear.
I will be changing my 93 to a 6 speed
once 5 speed goes, so can't use
mine
yet; if I have to, I am going to buy
a 6-speed to send but if somebody
actually needs one that is best because it
will get used right away.
In that vein, rather than us spending $ on a
LAWSUIT to get JUNKY
STOCK parts released, I'd like anybody willing to donate
$25, $50,
$100 or whatever to the "Cause", buying a worn/grinding
trans to
send to Metric Mechanic to get this BALL ROLLING.
Those who
were trusting and patient enough to send me the money for
synchros recently
that Getrag refused to deliver, can send me letter
whether they want to
"reduce their refund" I am going to send] by a
little to try to do
something
good AS A GROUP --the 3S Community -- to get a GREAT thing
done
for us all.
Please don't send or let me keep any money you need,
this is purely
a disposable income thing and I am MORE than happy to send
all
money back plus the $2.00 interest as I said before, but I wanted
to
present an ANSWER, not just send money back with no bright prospect
on
the horizon.
Reply To Me if you have trans to fix AND understand the
somewhat
experimental nature of this first job (I do) which means might
work
perfectly, might need removal and re-doing if not perfect--but
this
shop knows their Getrags, and I trust them.
Thanks to
all!
Sincerely,
Jack Tertadian
Getrag Fix Warrior
For
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:46:38 -0800
From:
gil_lee@usa.netSubject: Team3S: ram air
induction
has anyone devised any kind of ram air, cold induction intake
system for the
3KGT/TT?
the notion of free HP by just cooling the air
is so tempting!
1% hp gain for every -11 degrees F, so if you have 300 HP and
you lower the
temp by 88 degrees, you get 8% gain or 24hp. i know it
must be much harder
than it sounds, but i was wondering if anyone is selling
any kits for this.
i've seen some interesting experiments here:
http://people.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.htmli
have the a 92 w/K&N FIPK, so without cutting a vent into the hood
or
popping the hood (is that safe to drive like that even for just a 1/4
drag
race?), i was wondering if the huge headlights could be replaced with
a
smaller projection lamp system. i've seen people do cool things with
the
headlights, like somehow leave them half open with some sort of
custom
headlights. kinda like the right hand car on the 2nd row
here:
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/supraman4/gtobody_kits.htmi
think most of the radical body mods are made on the japanese cars, i
haven't
seen any crazy mods on the 3KGT's in the US like they do on the
supra, rx7,
etc.
there should be enough room for a small light and then some kind of
ram air
next to it.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:56:10 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: boost control
> so what the story with the boost control,
manual vs. electronic.
You've already heard that there is a difference
between a bleeder valve and a
manaul controller.
Bleeder: slow to
react, boost will peak for one second than fall, elevation and
atmospheric
changes will effect peak boost setting. 3rd gear accellerations
are
really lackluster since boost peaks quickly than
falls.
Manual: fast to react, not effected by elevation and
atmospheric changes. I am
curious as to the behavior at the set
point. When the spring & ball check valve
begins the opening and
closing cycling to maintain the set boost level, is there
noticible
oscillation of boost and if so what is the peak-to-peak oscillation?
This hasn't been disscussed as of yet, perhaps because the oscillation
is
negligible.
> for manual, i've heard everything from the $2
bleeder valve to the $50
> redline boost controller and $100 extreme
performance boost control. adding
> a $50 boost gauge puts you out
between $52 and $150, plus installation
> should be very easy.
Like
others have said, you get what you pay for. $52 is the cheapest
entry
point but you live with the bleeder problems above. The entry
point for safe
boost control is really $59 for the Redline manual, and about
$130 for the
excellent SPI guage & A-pillar gauge mount, or $199.
$229 if you choose the
Hallman controller. This provides good, basic
performance. The good
electronic controllers range from $400-$500
street price. Their additional
costs give you additional features such
as cockpit adjustable boost, boost
scramble, display modes, multiple boost
settings (saved in memory), etc (see my
previous posts on the new
Apexi). Since most electronic controllers display
boost pressure, you
could choose to forego an aftermarket guage.
I ran a $2 bleeder for a few
months, then the cockpit bleeder (see
http://www.3si.org/bleeder-valve.html)
for 18 months with an SPI guage. I now
have the new Apexi and it is
superb. I definitley recommend saving your money
and going directly to
an electronic controller.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
I'm surprised
you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:14:31 -0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ram air induction
The temp of the intake charge at the air
box or K&N FIPK is only 10 deg. F
above ambient (my experimental numbers)
so all you would gain is 3 HP. Not
worth the trouble in my book.
Roger and a few others have pointed out that
the smaller turbos heat up the
air ALOT when pushed out of their island.
(range of efficiency)Better
intercoolers or more efficient turbos seem like
the
answer.
Later,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
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classifieds and more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com-
----------NEW (under construction)----------
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-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
>
gil_lee@usa.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 12:47 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ram air induction
>
>
> has anyone devised
any kind of ram air, cold induction intake
> system for the
>
3KGT/TT?
>
> the notion of free HP by just cooling the air is so
tempting!
> 1% hp gain for every -11 degrees F, so if you have 300 HP
and
> you lower the
> temp by 88 degrees, you get 8% gain or
24hp. i know it must
> be much harder
> than it sounds, but i
was wondering if anyone is selling any
> kits for this.
>
>
i've seen some interesting experiments here:
>
http://people.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.html>
>
i have the a 92 w/K&N FIPK, so without cutting a vent into the hood
or
> popping the hood (is that safe to drive like that even for
>
just a 1/4 drag
> race?), i was wondering if the huge headlights could
be
> replaced with a
> smaller projection lamp system. i've
seen people do cool
> things with the
> headlights, like somehow
leave them half open with some sort of custom
> headlights. kinda
like the right hand car on the 2nd row here:
>
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/supraman4/gtobody_kits.htm>
>
i think most of the radical body mods are made on the japanese cars, i
>
haven't seen any crazy mods on the 3KGT's in the US like they
> do on
the
> supra, rx7, etc.
>
> there should be enough room for a
small light and then some
> kind of ram air
> next to
it.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #344
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