--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #343
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Tuesday, November 23 1999        Volume 01 : Number 343




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 07:40:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Another round of questions...

> Well, this is with some conversion factors that are not easy to explain. When you measure power with a G-Tech pro you'll see about 260-270hp at the wheels and this is pretty accurate. The loss is indeed large and this is why we are getting around 370hpflywheel measured on the dyno (DIN-corrected). Our results were "worst case" as on the dyno you do have not a good cooling of the charge air as well as the coolant. For this we always open the hood to have additional cooling and less intake temperatures. On the street it is possible that you have more power and the SAE correction takes care of this.
>
> > 3) I have recently found out that my car had been pretty heavily modified
> > (15g turbos, alamo sidemounts, etc.. ) before I bought it... I bought a 2
> > year/24k mile warentee simply because I knew the tranny was bad (yay,
> > getting a new one in about 7 hours). Anyone have any other ideas what
> > problems the car could have? I know that the stock exhaust sounds like
> > crap right now.. When standing behind it it sounds fine except for the
> > ocational pop (kind of a muffled pop) that sounds almost like the car is
> > backfiring. Could the timing be off?
>
> So has the car this mods on or not ? I always check the compression within 24 hours when I get a used car. I also check the look of the plugs, the look of the belt and tensioner and the IC intake for any larger sign of oil. The sound could be comming from heavily regapped plugs (down to 0.30) as this is often the cause for such sounds. Other than that, the cats can be clogged or even not working properly !

No, he took the modifications off before he sold it to the dealer. After I
got it from the dealer, I did a spark plug and oil change and they both
looked good. I've been considering taking off the valve covers and
inspecting everything...

Since i;m getting a new tranny today, i'm going to ask them to inspect as
much as they possibly can.

>
> > 3b) In relation to that last question, I've noticed that my Blitz dual
> > turbo timer registers my max boost (except when shifting) at about .42
> > Bar.
>
> What do you mean by "except when shifting" ? The steady boost you tell is normal for a 1st gen and it peaks up to 8psi asfter shifting and under full load in 3rd.

Whenever I shift, the boost spikes to about .5 PSI (when I'm really
stomping on it)
>
> > This calculates out to only about 6.2 PSI of boost. I was told that
> > that boost level sounds acurate for a 93 Wastegate (meaning that it is old
> > and worn out, i believe). My question is, could the wastegate (since it is
> > old and not holding the stock 8psi (or was it 9?) of boost) be letting
> > exhaust out early?
>
> Yes, can be but as said, this sounds pretty normal. With this you'll see about 280-296hp on the flywheel.
>
Great, thanks for the help..
> Hope this helps,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 10:27:35 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exceeding the Redline

To install the manual boost controller, do the following:

1) There is a hose that goes from the 4-way tee connector to the stock boost
control solenoid.  Remove this hose and cap the connector on the tee AND the
connector on the stock solenoid.  (Under stock operation when the stock solenoid
is open, air is bled back into the intake before the rear turbo.  This causes
boost to build because there will be insufficient pressure on the wastegates.
You want to remove this ability to bleed air off the wastegates.)

2)  Remove the hose that goes from the y-pipe connector to the 4-way tee and
insert your manual boost controller in it's place.  (In stock configuration,
this is the pressure source.  When the stock solenoid is closed, the wastegates
will be acutated to the positive pressure.  With your manual controller, the
spring will block pressure to the wastegates allowing boost to build.  When the
ball & spring opens, your wastegates will be acutated and boost will fall.)

Save the hoses so you can remove the manual boost controller and return to stock
form whenever you visit the dealer.

Good luck,
Ken

Merritt wrote:
>
> Help. I'm trying to figure out how to install the Redline manual boost
> controller (MBC). It's weird, but you turbo experts may be able to figure
> it out.
>
> Quoting from the so-called "installation brochure" from Redline (complete
> with typos):
>
> The Redline boost controller uses a spring and ball bearing. Here's how it
> works: pressure builds on the inlet side of the valve (from the BOV line
> off the manifold) and begins to exert a pressure on the ball opposite the
> spring. At some point the force exerted by the air on the ball will equal
> the force exerted by the spring. Up to this point, no air has been bled
> from your intake system.
>
> To install: Attach the pressure fitting to the BOV with a T fitting so that
> the ball see's boost...then attatch the air bleed to the intake box where
> there is no boost pressure. The other end attaches to the wastgate.
>
> To set boost, all you have to do is tighten down the ends so that tension
> on the spring is increased. To lock it,...insert the locking C rings over
> the threads.
>
> Setting boost is that easy!
> ___________
>
> Any of you turbo wizards out there have the foggiest idea of what he's
> talking about? Attach it to the BOV where?
> Glenn Cope, who had one installed, said he couldn't figure out how to make
> it work by following Redline's instructions, but got it to work a different
> way. He says, "So I went from the top line off of the y-pipe bend...hooked
> that into the MBC and then fed the MBC directly into the waste gate hoses.
> I just plugged off the stock solenoid hoses."
>
> Glen also thinks the system is designed for single-turbo cars, such as
> Eclipses.
>
> Here's the link if you want to look at it:
>
> http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/RedlinePROformance.htm
>
> It's only $59, so I don't mind tossing it if it's not going to work. I'll
> go to a bleeder valve if this doesn't work.
>
> (No, I'm not getting an electronic boost controller yet, because I am still
> under warranty. If I blow it up, I need a system that can come off quickly
> and easily.)
>
> Any ideas on how to make this work?
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 10:49:56 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then boost controller?

> > also, I'm trying to decide what bc I want..  from everything I've read
> > here and starnet, the Apexi AVC-R seems to be a universal favorite..  I
> > know it's been discussed several times lately, but does anyone have
> > anything bad to say about this unit?
>
> It lacks of rpm AND IDC connection at the same time, is not that easy to set up than others, has a big display that is not easy to fit somewhere, is more
> expensive than others and has the wrong color that doesn't fit our interiour
> lighting.

I know that Roger is just playing the devil's advocate, but let me elaborate:

> It lacks of rpm AND IDC connection at the same time

The new Apexi has one wire that can be installed on the ECU's RPM wire OR the
IDC wire.  When connected to the RPM wire, you cannot monitor IDC.  When
connected to the IDC wire, the display and learning capabilities are invalid
when IDC reaches 100%.  With a stock fuel system, this happens at WOT in the
early 4200 RPM range.

> is not that easy to set up than others

It has more parameters to specify to utilize advanced functionalities such as
RPM specific boost settings, or gear specific duty cycle adjustments, etc.

> has a big display that is not easy to fit somewhere

The display is about 5" wide X 3" high X 1" deep.  Not only is this used for
input specifications, but also shows real-time digital readouts OR scrolling
graphs of up to 4 different parameters.

> is more expensive than others

I paid $409 or $415 with shipping.

> and has the wrong color that doesn't fit our interiour lighting

It is indiglo blue.

Regards,
Ken
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 20:10:13 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then boost controller?

> I know that Roger is just playing the devil's advocate, but let me elaborate:

Harhar, Ken knows me already. Bu I can tell that these arguments cannot
withstand anything. I really had to find them, hehe.

> > is more expensive than others
> I paid $409 or $415 with shipping.

Ken, you've been one of the lucky guys. Apexi is not delivering the unit to
"companies" who are selling the unit on a dumping price anymore. I think $450 is
the minimum and the most are selling it for about $479-499. As usual, first come
first serve.

BTW, I really like it and just wish to be able to get the data out to a logging
device. I know, call me Scotty ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 10:10:44 -0500
From: RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Team3S: Stealth stereo

From: Roger J Roskam@CHRYSLER on 11/22/99 10:10 AM


To:   stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
cc:
Subject:  Stealth stereo

Anyone wishing to modify their factory stereo should check out the "222 hp
stereo" site for a bunch of great pictures of an ultimate '93 Stealth R/T stereo
installation.  There are some good before & after pics of the stock stereo
speaker locations.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/stereo.html


Roger J. Roskam
Investment and Systems Analyst
Benefit Funds Investments
DaimlerChrysler Corporation
phone:    (248) 512-3434
fax: (248) 512-3423
e-mail:   rjr15@dcx.com


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:28:39 EST
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Radiator fan not working..............

Okay,  only one of my radiator fans is working and the other isn't.     Any
ideas on why and what to do?        Thanks.          Shannon  L            
95 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:15 EST
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment

Okay,  call me childish,  but I'm a little dissapointed in Fixarim.com.      
I called to get a quote on getting one of my 18" rims touched up and they
quoted me at $300.
Okay,  no biggie,  BUT  they would offer NO WARRANTY what so ever on any work
done to 3000GT  rims.       At $1200 dollars a set (touched up)  and $3000 a
set (new),  I'd be taking a huge risk letting these guys 2,000 miles away
hold my rims for a month,  strip them down, and re chrome them,  and then get
NO WARRANTY!    They said even if they were defective when I got the out of
the box there would still be "ABSOLUTELY NO WARANTY ON ANY 3000GT RIM"    
SO,  having dealt with so many Warranty issues with Mitsubishi and so forth, 
I am a little dissapointed in 3si's choice to advertise for a company who
goes OUT OF THEIR WAY TO OFFER NO WARRANTIES for work for our vehicles.   is
there some other rim shop that could us better as a 3000GT community?  Or are
we to start buying parts and services for are cars with no warranties???     
NO WARRANTY,  NO ADVERTISEMENT is what I say!    
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:52:53 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator fan not working..............

Shannon...

They are wired in series, not parallel. One comes on at first then, if the
coolant temperature continues to rise, the other turns on. I've watched it
happen, but never looked it up in the manual to see what the switch
temperature settings are.

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:29 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Radiator fan not working..............

Okay,  only one of my radiator fans is working and the other isn't.     Any
ideas on why and what to do?        Thanks.          Shannon  L            
95 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:58:51 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment

Shannon...

Two things going on here...

1. Shop around if you don't like the arrangement that a particular vendor
offers. No big deal, there may be a plating shop in your town. If not, you
can still search the web, ask the list for other options, buy new rims, or
decide to leave yours in their current condition.

2. We (the Admins) do NOT advertise for anyone. Some listmembers have
recommended dealers, shops, vendors, etc. with whom they've had good
experience. There are also listmembers that post warnings about dealers,
shops, vendors, etc. with whom they have not been satisfied. Either way,
these are personal opinions and statements, NOT Team 3S advertising.

Looking forward...Chris (for the Admins)

- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:37 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment


Okay,  call me childish,  but I'm a little dissapointed in Fixarim.com.

I called to get a quote on getting one of my 18" rims touched up and they
quoted me at $300.
Okay,  no biggie,  BUT  they would offer NO WARRANTY what so ever on any
work
done to 3000GT  rims.       At $1200 dollars a set (touched up)  and $3000 a

set (new),  I'd be taking a huge risk letting these guys 2,000 miles away
hold my rims for a month,  strip them down, and re chrome them,  and then
get
NO WARRANTY!    They said even if they were defective when I got the out of
the box there would still be "ABSOLUTELY NO WARANTY ON ANY 3000GT RIM"    
SO,  having dealt with so many Warranty issues with Mitsubishi and so forth,

I am a little dissapointed in 3si's choice to advertise for a company who
goes OUT OF THEIR WAY TO OFFER NO WARRANTIES for work for our vehicles.   is

there some other rim shop that could us better as a 3000GT community?  Or
are
we to start buying parts and services for are cars with no warranties???

NO WARRANTY,  NO ADVERTISEMENT is what I say!    
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:02:29 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator fan not working..............

> They are wired in series, not parallel. One comes on at first
> then, if the coolant temperature continues to rise, the other
> turns on.  I've watched it happen, but never looked it up in
> the manual to see what the switch temperature settings are.

The second one is also wired into the same circuit that controls the air conditioning compressor, so when the AC is on, the fan should come on also.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:55:17 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth Stereo

I have Boston Pros component set up front which fits the stock locations
with no problem!
However, they require about 200 watts of amplication.

Sam 95 VR4


- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth Stereo


>Team3S:  I was going to reply privately as this isn't really technical, but
>I thought there might be others curious about it..  hope you all don't
mind..
>
>Rah wrote:
>>
>> Hello all, here to ask questions again,
>>     I have a 93 Stealth R/T TT, and what I understand to be the premium
>> 6 speaker sound system.  I know currently Dodge's nicest stereos
>> available are Infinity packages and along with those comes the unusual
>> setup with their own amp and all.  Does this apply here?
>
>I think several options were available, but I believe all 3/S TT came with
>factory amplification (meaning, an external amp as opposed to just the
>internal amp in the head unit) by 93..  not positive on this though..
>someone please correct me if I'm wrong..
>
>look under your passenger seat with it all the way forward for a factory
>amp..  it'll be easy to spot..  (btw, you can use aftermarket speakers with
>this amp, but not an aftermarket head unit..)
>
>>     I'm looking to maybe upgrade the speakers at some point possibly, so
>> I'm also wondering what kind of speakers there are(specifically size)?
>> And how hard they are to change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
>> is involved too)?  Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
>> oughta just pop off, but the dash look like they could be more involved.
>
>actually, it's just the opposite..  the dash speakers just pop/pry out, but
>the door and rear speakers need to have the panels (not the grills) removed
>to access them..
>
>the dash speakers are the worst of the bunch to replace as far as
aftermarket
>options go..  they're 3" (not 3.5") and nobody seems to make that odd
size..
>(please, somebody tell me I'm wrong because I need to replace these
myself..)
>I think the door speakers are 6.5" and the rears are 6"x9", with plenty of
>options available..  just make sure to watch out for mounting depth
problems
>before you fall in love with the sound of a particular speaker..
>
>hope that helps..
>
>--
>Dave
>95 Black 3000GT VR4
>87 Mica Red GTI G60
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:13:01 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?

Ok, so all the rock chips and spider cracks (lower lip) on my front fascia
are beginning to get to me :)  So, I'm considering repainting the front
fascia...well, actually paying someone with more equipment and expertise
than I to do it:)


So:


1) Can the (urethane?) fascia have dents knocked out?  I know it's not
sheet metal and that some plastics deform permanently :(  There are a few
small dents in it(rocks), and the area around the right headlight is
ever-so-slightly deformed (prev. owner rear-ended someone, I think).   So
can these be removed, or am I stuck with them?

2) Will it be cheaper to have the old fascia prepped (ignoring #1) and
painted, or just buy a new one and have it painted?

3) I have a pearl white car - can they match the pearl paint?  It's a
95, been in service since July, 1995, and been garaged its entire life.
Also, it's been either in the northeast of northwest (USA), so I'd imagine
the sun hasn't done too much to it.  Maybe it'll match?  <fingers crossed>

4) If the existing paint has faded slightly, can they blend pearl
paints?

5) <the big one>  How much would be reasonable to expect to pay (either
prepping/painting or just painting).  I want it to look good, so I ain't
plannin to go to no Maaco:)


Thanks for your input!
- --Erik


- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          63,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
- -------------------------------------------------------------


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 18:13:45 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then boost controller?

>
>> is more expensive than others
>
>I paid $409 or $415 with shipping.
>
>> and has the wrong color that doesn't fit our interiour lighting
>
I bought mine for $380 from www.apexvr4.com, but I think the price went
up,  Mine fits perfectly in the console where the cd cases should go in
front
of the cup holder.  I bought a small adjustable cup holder and mounted it
upside
down in the console and velcroed the controller to it so it sits flush with
the top.
It looks good in there, is unobtrusive and does not cause a glare problem at
night.  In fact, I hid all the solenoids and sensors so well, the dealer
mechanics
still have not noticed it.  I even ran  fake vacuum lines to the stock
solenoid for
show!

Sam 95 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 18:24:59 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 12:25 AM
Subject: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase


>FYI, forwarded from the 3Si board :
>
>Here's what we came up with for a group buy on the GT-PRO Split Second:
>
>Normal Price $1049.00
>
>Purchase Price with 15 people $949.00
>Purchase Price with 25 People $899.00
>
>For Details, please check out our website at www.dynamicracing1.com and
look
>under Monthly Specials or give us a call at (505) 430-4850.
>
>Thanks,
>Dan 'Dynamic Racing'
>
Is anyone starting a list?  I am sure we can get 25 people to purchase one
of these
fuel controllers, especially since they have developed them for use in the
N/A cars.
Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As?  If there is like a 25-50 h.p.
benefit,
I think anyone with a non-turbo would jump for joy, since their mods are
quite limited
ie. turbo-zet etc.  I need a Christmas gift for myself!!

Sam 95 VR4  Apex AVCr 1 kg/cm2, HKS SSBOV, Stillen DP (one cat), K&N FIPK
                         Powerstop x-drilled rotors, perf friction pads,
A-pillar boost, Greddy TT
                         custom brake cooling-two plastic flexible gutter
drains! -NGKr at .038

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:07:44 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then boost controller?

>Hy Sam,
>
>please advise when you last time have contacted Indra Mahesa, ex-manager of
>Apexvr4?
>it's important for me, cause now i'm having a problem with apex - when
>placed an order, contacted Indra, now they say Indra is fired and they
don't
>know anything about my order and money.....
>
>Thanks,
>Olegs,
>94 3kgt VR4
Uh Oh!!  I bought stuff from them at the end of September 1999.
I bought a D.P., a Greddy turbo timer, and an A-pillar gauge.  I bought
the boost controller in August.  He told me there was a new owner and
he actually sounded a little pushy on the phone to get me to buy a full
cat-back (I want a stealth look so no way!!).  I do not know what to tell
you
except if you used credit cards, call them and complain, they will find out
what happened.  If you used a MAC card, if it has a VISA or MC logo, the
bank
can take care of it through those agencies.  Do not wait long to take
action!

Sam 95 VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:32:02 +1300
From: "B Collett" <hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.

- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, 23 November 1999 00:20
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.


> Not sure on the pressure yet, we are trying that later today.
> Do you know if it is a two speed pump?
> Not sure on the voltage, standard 3000GT pump?
> I was on idle when I did that test.

>Nonono, at idle you are having a vacuum that lowers fuel pressure, the
>pump is switched down to about 6-8 Volts or even less and therefore >the
flow is minimal :-) Testing is not always easy !


OK, thanks for that. I still know that mine is very tired though.

> Yes I already have Hybrid 15G's with larger turbine wheel for quicker
> responce at low rev's.  I am running the HKS EVC 4, have a HKS F-Con.
> I also have 550cc injectors that I can use but I don't think I need them
at this stage.
> It is bored out to 3.2L with forged pistons and compression of 7.8 : 1
> All heads ported and polished and flowed. Portmatched.
> I don't have to have a Cat here, I have a straight 3.5" pipe so no
problems
> there..

>Nice setup, although I still don't like the F-Con. If you ever have the
>chance sell it and either get a VPC or ARC/MAF kit. You'll get much >better
results out of it. And I can tell you that you NEED the fuel IF you >are
running more than 15psi. This, because our cars need to run >super-rich to
avoid knock and the ECU does taking care of this and >the injectors are
maxxed out even at 15psi ! Fue lcut will then jump in >at about 17psi as the
values are jumping out of the map.


Yeah the F-Con was a very old mod for my car, when it was new + the old HKS
EVC 1 which I have replaced with the 4 just need to get rid of the F-Con and
get the VPC. My car was all modified as soon as it was brought into the
country from new by Mitsubishi.
I was talking to Apexi today but such a computer is much to expensive for me
because of the American dollar, everything doubles for me.. so things from
NZ might be cheap for you.. how about a Pod filter for $75 US?

>BUT: You have a lot of internals changed and I believe it is not fully 3.2l
>as the walls would be too thin. Anyways it is about 3.12 liters and this
>overbore can give you alot power. I believe that the even lower
>compression is responsible for much less knock as well as the forged
>pistons are.


I was told it was 3.2L, engine bored the same as that done on a jet boat and
the class cannot be incorrect as it is a world class champion boat and are
regulary checked. Sonic tested by engineers and told it was perfectly safe.

> I have fancy valve springs that are suppose to be able to stand 20psi
> without blowing the valve of it's seat.

>Idle is still ok ? Sometimes so heavy valve-springs do create more >stree
to the adjusters/cams and you may need also stronger parts >there !


Idle is fine.          I hope not... :-)


> Ok so I am pretty sweet just need the fuel pump and filter and the
computer
> that will correctly map my flow and stop fuel cut.

>The filter is ok if not clogged but, as mentioned, get a used VPC (Brad
>Bedell is selling some parts) and you'll be able to get much more out ?>of
it as you do today.


Brad Bedell, can you tell me his Email address?
My old filter was genuine and rusted and pretty much stuffed, I installed
the new fake one and it made no difference.. I am going to test the filters
and if the new one is no better I am going to be mad..

>Damn, you definitely invested A LOT in your car and I'm sure that it will
>withstand 20psi easily. Just make sure to measure the intake >temperature
before the throttle body as you may start to think about a >FMIC setup that
is able to deliver the desired bosot and air at the >same time.


I hope so, Few mates are quickly modifing their GTR's and I have to hurry
:-)
FMIC? whats that?

> Pump will be here in a couple of days and new filter also.
> Just need to find the BEST/CHEAPEST computer.

>Those words do not go together. You can get a used VPC setup alone >for
$600 used, but dunno what chip is included then and if it is fully >working.
I recommend the ARC2-GP MAF kit as I have good >experience with it (only a
little problem with temps under -5°C) and it >handles anything around fuel
and air. Well, it is another $1000               >(including air filter) but
I belive you can sell the F-Con to minimize >costs. This setup, with 20psi
of boost, you'll be able to run into the 11s >for sure and power will be
around 560hp or so.


Seems like I still have to spend a few grand yet... We have a computer
system here in New Zealand called LINK but some poeple say they are no good
and some live by them? but they are ruffly $400US for the full setup.

Have a few little problems to fix yet also, front seal needs to be replaced,
damn guy that did the engine did not replace it..
Also get a full set of new mags, my ones are rather weak after numerous pot
holes, they are the Mitsubishi 2 piece directional mags and the insurance
company can't find them so I get a new set of anything :-)
+ Son crashed Nissan GTS-4 skyline, needs new wheel, suspension...
Man cars are a pain some times ... :-)

>Get the good fuel control and you will get more than you wanted :))


Will do :-)

What about exausts?, I have about three setup's, 2 HKS free flows, 1 huge
straight pipe (LOUD), would it be much better with the big one
or would it make hardly any difference. I relize everyone alse has to use
Cats etc...

One last thing... Clutch, all this power is starting to cause problems. I
have a Kevlar clutch but large drops just slip it..
Any Ideas??

Henry

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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:01:25 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

> Is anyone starting a list?  I am sure we can get 25 people to
> purchase one of these fuel controllers, especially since they
> have developed them for use in the N/A cars.
> Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As?  If there is
> like a 25-50 h.p. benefit,
> I think anyone with a non-turbo would jump for joy, since
> their mods are quite limited
> ie. turbo-zet etc.  I need a Christmas gift for myself!!

I'm planning on buying one in the spring, however if the Group Purchase saved a significant amount of money (the $899 level) then I'd be inclined to join in on the purchase.  The car is in storage for the winter, so it doesn't really help me much to get it sooner than then.

Next steps for the car:

15G turbos (thanks Jeff!), ported only - no clip
ARC2-GP
440 or 550 injectors (not sure which way to go with these -
                      I don't think I'll ever run over 19 psi
                      of boost)
Put the Blitz super-sound BOV back on
Fuel pump?

After I'm to that point, I don't think I'm going to do anything more to the car.  Since it is rather rare, I don't want to affect the value of the car by going crazy with it.  If I feel a need for more speed, I'll by a Kawasaki ZX-12.  :-)

I figure low 12's should be fairly easy with that setup, and that's plenty good for what I want to do.  If I break into the 11's I have to do a rollcage, and that would suck for this car.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

HKS EVC IV, Spearco H2O injection, Magnacores, K&N FIPK, Borla exhaust, Alamo downpipe, high-flow cat

13.230@103.62

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:14:05 CST
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

Sam,

I sent an email to Dan at 'Dynamic Racing' and he is keeping the list.  I'm
signed up for one!!!

Let's get the price down to $899.  Matt J. have you signed up yet??

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

www.dynamicracing1.com and
>look
> >under Monthly Specials or give us a call at (505) 430-4850.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Dan 'Dynamic Racing'
> >
>Is anyone starting a list?  I am sure we can get 25 people to purchase one
>of these
>fuel controllers,

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:23:23 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

> Let's get the price down to $899.  Matt J. have you signed up yet??

I'm signed up, conditional that the price becomes $899.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:46:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?

I recently used the "Ding King" in Santa Clara (bay area) for my dad's
1998 BMW 528i. The rear bumper had some DEEP scratches that were HIDEOUS
(i mean they were BAD>. about 12 inches long, DEEP, and wide.. (hey sounds
like me! :P sorry, had to). He charged $350 to do: paint the rear bumper,
fix a chip in the windshield and go around the front of the car and fill
in nicks..

Was it a good job? YES! There was a TINY TINY run on the bumper that was
only noticeable if you stare at it... and all the nicks on the front of
the car were gone. The best part -- he did it with the body piece on the
car, at my house, in my garage, and we could drive the car 2 hours later.
I HIGHLY recomend his owrk, and will be using him to repaint my front
bumper after my ABS incident..

The Ding King
408-243-8778
Santa Clara, Ca 95055

www.dingking.com

- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751

On Mon, 22 Nov 1999, Gross, Erik wrote:

> Ok, so all the rock chips and spider cracks (lower lip) on my front fascia
> are beginning to get to me :)  So, I'm considering repainting the front
> fascia...well, actually paying someone with more equipment and expertise
> than I to do it:)
>
>
> So:
>
>
> 1) Can the (urethane?) fascia have dents knocked out?  I know it's not
> sheet metal and that some plastics deform permanently :(  There are a few
> small dents in it(rocks), and the area around the right headlight is
> ever-so-slightly deformed (prev. owner rear-ended someone, I think).   So
> can these be removed, or am I stuck with them?
>
> 2) Will it be cheaper to have the old fascia prepped (ignoring #1) and
> painted, or just buy a new one and have it painted?
>
> 3) I have a pearl white car - can they match the pearl paint?  It's a
> 95, been in service since July, 1995, and been garaged its entire life.
> Also, it's been either in the northeast of northwest (USA), so I'd imagine
> the sun hasn't done too much to it.  Maybe it'll match?  <fingers crossed>
>
> 4) If the existing paint has faded slightly, can they blend pearl
> paints?
>
> 5) <the big one>  How much would be reasonable to expect to pay (either
> prepping/painting or just painting).  I want it to look good, so I ain't
> plannin to go to no Maaco:)
>
>
> Thanks for your input!
> --Erik
>
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          63,000 mi
> Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
> Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
> K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
> Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
> ***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
>    44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
> -------------------------------------------------------------

>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:39:39 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?

- -----Original Message-----From: Gross, Erik <erik.gross@intel.com>
>Ok, so all the rock chips and spider cracks (lower lip) on my front
fascia
>are beginning to get to me :)  So, I'm considering repainting the
front
>fascia...well, actually paying someone with more equipment and
expertise
>than I to do it:)
>1) Can the (urethane?) fascia have dents knocked out?  I know it's
not
>sheet metal and that some plastics deform permanently :(  There are
a few
>small dents in it(rocks), and the area around the right headlight
is
>ever-so-slightly deformed (prev. owner rear-ended someone, I
think).   So
>can these be removed, or am I stuck with them?


Moderate deformations cannot be knocked out of urethane, but they
can be repaired easily by a good detailing shop.  It's not
inexpensive for several of these (probably a few hundred $,
including painting) but it can be done.  I recommend using the same
shop the dealerships in your area use...  They rarely do their own
work.


>2) Will it be cheaper to have the old fascia prepped (ignoring #1)
and
>painted, or just buy a new one and have it painted?

'Prepped' sounds exactly like #1; moderate filling, sanding,
painting...  A new one is over $700, if I remember correctly, plus
fitting & painting.


>3) I have a pearl white car - can they match the pearl paint?  It's
a
>95, been in service since July, 1995, and been garaged its entire
life.
>Also, it's been either in the northeast of northwest (USA), so I'd
imagine
>the sun hasn't done too much to it.  Maybe it'll match?  <fingers
crossed>
>4) If the existing paint has faded slightly, can they blend pearl
>paints?
>5) <the big one>  How much would be reasonable to expect to pay
(either
>prepping/painting or just painting).  I want it to look good, so I
ain't
>plannin to go to no Maaco:)

My guess is $300 to $500, unless you live in the boonies.  You get
what you pay for.  Any shop good enough to claim they can match a
specialty paint wants to be paid for their expertise...  I've had it
done by a good shop but it's hard to say what it cost me, because
other repairs were involved.  For various door dings, fender dings
and fascia crunch repair from a parking lot hit-and-run, I paid
$1100, but the car looked as new when they were done.  (Don't
forget, the Bay Area is the priciest in the country, so you might
pay less...).

Best,

Forrest


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:29:15 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

Hi Sam,

Errin and I might be interested if the price goes lower, Otherwise we will
purchase it when the time comes. Keep in touch yah?

Later

Julian Ng
94 VR4 Pear White Milk Tea
gtovr4@postalzone.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat <sshelat@erols.com>
To: team3s <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 12:25 AM
>Subject: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
>
>
>>FYI, forwarded from the 3Si board :
>>
>>Here's what we came up with for a group buy on the GT-PRO Split Second:
>>
>>Normal Price $1049.00
>>
>>Purchase Price with 15 people $949.00
>>Purchase Price with 25 People $899.00
>>
>>For Details, please check out our website at www.dynamicracing1.com and
>look
>>under Monthly Specials or give us a call at (505) 430-4850.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Dan 'Dynamic Racing'
>>
>Is anyone starting a list?  I am sure we can get 25 people to purchase one
>of these
>fuel controllers, especially since they have developed them for use in the
>N/A cars.
>Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As?  If there is like a 25-50 h.p.
>benefit,
>I think anyone with a non-turbo would jump for joy, since their mods are
>quite limited
>ie. turbo-zet etc.  I need a Christmas gift for myself!!
>
>Sam 95 VR4  Apex AVCr 1 kg/cm2, HKS SSBOV, Stillen DP (one cat), K&N FIPK
>                         Powerstop x-drilled rotors, perf friction pads,
>A-pillar boost, Greddy TT
>                         custom brake cooling-two plastic flexible gutter
>drains! -NGKr at .038
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:24:12 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

> Is anyone starting a list?  I am sure we can get 25 people to purchase one of these
> fuel controllers, especially since they have developed them for use in the N/A cars.
> Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As?  If there is like a 25-50 h.p benefit,
> I think anyone with a non-turbo would jump for joy, since their mods are quite limited
> ie. turbo-zet etc.  I need a Christmas gift for myself!!

Ahem, first the ARC for the NAs is calibrated but not yet tested and second, why should an NA car gain from the more fuel ?? Please note that the NA do have even smaller injectors and therefore do not have a lot benefit. It will flow more air and therefore needs more fuel too but, to be honest, I do not expect a big gain. Ok, on a NA everything helps :-) Hope to see some real dyno figures soon.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:16:09 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump. (etc.)

> I was talking to Apexi today but such a computer is much to expensive for me
> because of the American dollar, everything doubles for me.. so things from
> NZ might be cheap for you.. how about a Pod filter for $75 US?

Apexi ? They do only make ECUs for the Nissans/Toyotas but not for us. The AFCs
are universal but not recommended for your setup !

> I was told it was 3.2L, engine bored the same as that done on a jet boat and
> the class cannot be incorrect as it is a world class champion boat and are
> regulary checked. Sonic tested by engineers and told it was perfectly safe.

So you are running our engine in a jet-boat, right ? Or did anyone else put into
another thing than a car ?

> Brad Bedell, can you tell me his Email address?

Info on Brad (I hope I remembered it correctly that he's sellign his stuff)

http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

> FMIC? whats that?

Basic term : Front Mount InterCooler

> Seems like I still have to spend a few grand yet... We have a computer
> system here in New Zealand called LINK but some poeple say they are no good
> and some live by them? but they are ruffly $400US for the full setup.

LINK is known for some ignition boxes on the Japanese market. Never heard of
them elswhere and I do not know anything. They seem to be related to FIELD.

> + Son crashed Nissan GTS-4 skyline, needs new wheel, suspension...
> Man cars are a pain some times ... :-)

Expensive son !

> What about exausts?, I have about three setup's, 2 HKS free flows, 1 huge
> straight pipe (LOUD), would it be much better with the big one
> or would it make hardly any difference. I relize everyone alse has to use
> Cats etc...

I have to use cats, withough I highly recommend to gut or replace the precats.
The front one can be replaced by making a pipe but the rear one is almost
impossible. I therefore recommend you to gut it. Then get a good downpipe and a
high flow cat and the HKS free flow will doing the rest, quiet but good enough.
In my point of view, the precats and the y-pipe MUST be done after upgrading the
turbos. Even the precats will give you some gain with the smaller turbos as the
pressure difference is better and they may spool up quicker.

> One last thing... Clutch, all this power is starting to cause problems. I
> have a Kevlar clutch but large drops just slip it..
> Any Ideas??

A lot :) Well, I'd say to go for an RPS clutch although I haven't installed mine
(Turbo Carbon) as the stock clutch ist still alive. But for this I'd serach the
archives as there was a lot talk recently.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:26:21 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase

For further details on the Group Purchase and discussion about price and
availability please contact Dan from 'Dynamic Racing' directly (
www.dynamicracing1.com, (505) 430-4850) or email personally to the participants.
If one hears that they do need more people please feel free to post a reminder
to the list once in a while.

Of course, Tech stuff can be discussed here and I can give you about every
information on it you need.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:33:47 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then ... (apex shop, filter)

I was lucky to get one or two parts from him delviered quickly but with UPS what
was way too expensive to get it over here. Indra sold the parts too cheap and
got some "nice" letters from Apexi and others. I dunno what the new owner does
but .. we'll see.

BTW, DO NOT buy the cheap filter kit for our cars from them !!! The flange for
the MAS doesn't fit properly and have to machined (its cast aluminum and 1/4 the
quality of K&N) The filter is a K&N, larger in dia but shorter. The cap of the
filter is painted yellow and this looks HORRIBLE ! I wanted to sell it in a
Stage 1 kit but I just felt bad giving the thing to a customer. Well, one will
get a real cheap filter upgrade ! Make sure you are getting the Aircharger for
the 2nd gen DSM as it comes with the great K&N quality flange and the larger
filter than our FIPK has. The only drawback is that the two brackets holding the
MAS are not included and the chrome filter cap as a bolt welded in (urgh). But
it defintiely works good :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:11:19 EST
From: XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?

Well I can answer a few of your questions. I just got my '93 Pearl R/T
repainted, and I searched and searched, but I got this answer from Mitsu
dealers, Dodge dealers and paint shops. They don't make that shade of pearl
paint anymore (very unfortunately) I had to get my whole car repainted
(2,500) with a Dupont equivalent (which is unfortunately more white, but
still with a pearl tinge) Yes it is possible to blend a pearl paint job, but
it is very hard to do, you must have a VERY good paint man with alot of
experience! But like I said, they don't make that shade anymore. Looks like a
completely new paint job for any of us pearl 3000/Stealth owners if we aren't
satisfied w/ the minor scratches, dings and dents. Oh well. Good luck! (P.S.
yes they can fix the minor dings in plastic, by filling them and smoothing
them with plastic putty, but they cannot remove them.)I got mine done and it
looks beautiful. Check it out at....    
http://members.aol.com/xxfiretamerxx/index.html
                            Hope I helped a little!

                                     ED
                           XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
                           '93 Stealth R/T
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:26:42 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?

That's interesting... I had my '95 3KGT base touched up a few months ago.
My
body man told me he never wanted to EVER do that again... <smile!>  But it
came
out perfect.  You can't tell where the new paint starts and the old begins.
He had the
car for over a week and he only charged me $125.00.  Outrageous, huh?  I
think he
only charged me that because I've brought a lot of people in there,
everybody in my
family uses him and he put me out for over a week.  I think he planned on
charging
me $400.  I had all the dings, rock bruises and scratches taken off the
front fascia,
a scratch taken out of one side skirt and a door totally repainted....
- -G


>Well I can answer a few of your questions. I just got my '93 Pearl R/T
>repainted, and I searched and searched, but I got this answer from Mitsu
>dealers, Dodge dealers and paint shops. They don't make that shade of pearl
>paint anymore (very unfortunately) I had to get my whole car repainted
>(2,500) with a Dupont equivalent (which is unfortunately more white, but
>still with a pearl tinge) Yes it is possible to blend a pearl paint job,
but
>it is very hard to do, you must have a VERY good paint man with alot of
>experience! But like I said, they don't make that shade anymore. Looks like
a
>completely new paint job for any of us pearl 3000/Stealth owners if we
aren't
>satisfied w/ the minor scratches, dings and dents. Oh well. Good luck!
(P.S.
>yes they can fix the minor dings in plastic, by filling them and smoothing
>them with plastic putty, but they cannot remove them.)I got mine done and
it
>looks beautiful. Check it out at....
>http://members.aol.com/xxfiretamerxx/index.html
>                            Hope I helped a little!
>
>                                     ED
>                           XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
>                           '93 Stealth R/T
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:30:42 PST
From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment

As the webmaster for 3si.org I cannot find any reference in the benefits
section that recommends or endorses this vendor. If they have offered some
kind of discount when you use the organization's name, 3si.org, not to be
confused with Team 3S, and they do not satisfy your needs as a consumer,
please feel free to direct them to me.

I am striving to find vendors tha offer quality goods and services with the
supported needed to make the relationship succeed.

Eric Lotter
webmaster@3si.org


>From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>To: "'MitsuVR41@aol.com'" <MitsuVR41@aol.com>,
>stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment
>Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:58:51 -0800
>
>Shannon...
>
>Two things going on here...
>
>1. Shop around if you don't like the arrangement that a particular vendor
>offers. No big deal, there may be a plating shop in your town. If not, you
>can still search the web, ask the list for other options, buy new rims, or
>decide to leave yours in their current condition.
>
>2. We (the Admins) do NOT advertise for anyone. Some listmembers have
>recommended dealers, shops, vendors, etc. with whom they've had good
>experience. There are also listmembers that post warnings about dealers,
>shops, vendors, etc. with whom they have not been satisfied. Either way,
>these are personal opinions and statements, NOT Team 3S advertising.
>
>Looking forward...Chris (for the Admins)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:37 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment
>
>
>Okay,  call me childish,  but I'm a little dissapointed in Fixarim.com.
>
>I called to get a quote on getting one of my 18" rims touched up and they
>quoted me at $300.
>Okay,  no biggie,  BUT  they would offer NO WARRANTY what so ever on any
>work
>done to 3000GT  rims.       At $1200 dollars a set (touched up)  and $3000
>a
>
>set (new),  I'd be taking a huge risk letting these guys 2,000 miles away
>hold my rims for a month,  strip them down, and re chrome them,  and then
>get
>NO WARRANTY!    They said even if they were defective when I got the out of
>the box there would still be "ABSOLUTELY NO WARANTY ON ANY 3000GT RIM"
>SO,  having dealt with so many Warranty issues with Mitsubishi and so
>forth,
>
>I am a little dissapointed in 3si's choice to advertise for a company who
>goes OUT OF THEIR WAY TO OFFER NO WARRANTIES for work for our vehicles.  
>is
>
>there some other rim shop that could us better as a 3000GT community?  Or
>are
>we to start buying parts and services for are cars with no warranties???
>
>NO WARRANTY,  NO ADVERTISEMENT is what I say!
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>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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