--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #342
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest Monday,
November 22 1999 Volume 01 : Number
342
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:11:40 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
> 190l/hr, I think I have a different reading,
I am just timing 1 minute and
> seeing how much fuel comes out. I got
800ml X 60 = 48 l/hr....
> my friends car runs 72 l/hr.
On
what pressure ? What voltage to the pump ? Idle ??
> Man these cars
are REALLY hard to get running right..
Well, depends on the tools
:)
> Is it possible to run 20psi I do we need to get alot cooler
somehow?
You have to do a lot more for reliable 20psi. First, replace the
turbos ! But
all this is pricey.
> I need to get this going it is
really starting to annoy me, I have spent all
> this money and not getting
the performance I want.
I cannot remember what money you spent on what
mods. Get a good filter, bleeder
valve, used 440cc injectors and a used AFC,
gut the precats, get a high flow cat
and a custom exhaust and you're in the
low 12s with 17/18psi boost. All this
stuff is only about $800
maximum.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:19:59 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Few engine building questions
> Pistons? At what boost /
horsepower level are upgraded forged pistons
> recommended (JE pistons for
example)?
JE forged pistons are the cheapest ones but I'd choose them
too. There are
others around that also have one or two more grooves for the
higehr bosot. I'd
go for them after 18psi of boost for reliability. Also get
TotalSeals rings.
> I do have the necessary fuel upgrades and a
datalogger to monitor knock
> levels. Can I expect to safely run mid 11's
with stock pistons ?
Yes, if you run race fuel at the track. BTW, have
you solved your O2 reading
problem ?
> Head gaskets? Has
anyone tried using two head gaskets per bank to
> better seal the
combustion chamber.
This will lower the compression ratio below 8.0:1.
The heads are very well done
and I don't see a gain of this and I never heard
of one where the gasket blew
off.
> Ball bearing 15G's? I may
need to rebuild my rear bank 15G turbo.
> Instead of rebuilding it though,
should I use this money and put it
> towards a pair of new ball bearing
units? Do the ball bearing turbo's
> really outperform the bushing
units?
Well, this highly depends on the quality of the bearings. I have
no experience
and even the 368s I have ar bushing types. As far as I
understand the bearing
type have less friction and generate less ehat due to
less force to the shaft.
But I doubt that on our twin turbo system two
bearing turbos can make a big
difference to the performance. Maybe life is
increased and regardign the rear
Turbo this is maybe a good idea
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:35:17 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: plugs then boost controller?
> I'm planning on changing my
plugs in the next week or two, and I wondered
> how much power I might
lose by gapping them to .034 even though I don't
> have a boost controller
yet.
Mostly loss in tourque but you'll not notice it. You'll probably see
a drop
in mileage but also not a lot.
> also, I'm trying to decide
what bc I want.. from everything I've read
> here and starnet, the
Apexi AVC-R seems to be a universal favorite.. I
> know it's been
discussed several times lately, but does anyone have
> anything bad to say
about this unit?
It lacks of rpm AND IDC connection at the same time, is
not that easy to set
up than others, has a big display that is not easy to
fit somewhere, is more
expensive than others and has the wrong color that
doesn't fit our interiour
lighting.
> oh, and I will be getting a
boost gauge as well in case you were going
> to suggest that..
:)
The most are good enough. I haven't seen a bad one, although the
AutoMeter
are a little too cheap IMHO.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:39:03 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brakes
> Roger may be on to something. It's so hard to push
all four pistons back
> into the calipers, I can see that an incompetent
shop might very well
leave
> out the plates to gain just a bit more
clearance so they can slip the new
> pads in. They are thin steel plates,
shaped the same as the pads, and go
> between the pads and the pistons.
There can be one or two per side.
Yes, you are absolutely right ! There
are two plates on each pad, one is
plain while the other is slotted. When
checkiong the brakes, they could
already be covered from a lot dust and
therefore the plates are not well
recognizable. Follow the good advices given
and you should be fine.
Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:11:40 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
> 190l/hr, I think I have a different reading,
I am just timing 1 minute and
> seeing how much fuel comes out. I got
800ml X 60 = 48 l/hr....
> my friends car runs 72 l/hr.
On
what pressure ? What voltage to the pump ? Idle ??
> Man these cars
are REALLY hard to get running right..
Well, depends on the tools
:)
> Is it possible to run 20psi I do we need to get alot cooler
somehow?
You have to do a lot more for reliable 20psi. First, replace the
turbos ! But
all this is pricey.
> I need to get this going it is
really starting to annoy me, I have spent all
> this money and not getting
the performance I want.
I cannot remember what money you spent on what
mods. Get a good filter, bleeder
valve, used 440cc injectors and a used AFC,
gut the precats, get a high flow cat
and a custom exhaust and you're in the
low 12s with 17/18psi boost. All this
stuff is only about $800
maximum.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:19:59 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Few engine building questions
> Pistons? At what boost /
horsepower level are upgraded forged pistons
> recommended (JE pistons for
example)?
JE forged pistons are the cheapest ones but I'd choose them
too. There are
others around that also have one or two more grooves for the
higehr bosot. I'd
go for them after 18psi of boost for reliability. Also get
TotalSeals rings.
> I do have the necessary fuel upgrades and a
datalogger to monitor knock
> levels. Can I expect to safely run mid 11's
with stock pistons ?
Yes, if you run race fuel at the track. BTW, have
you solved your O2 reading
problem ?
> Head gaskets? Has
anyone tried using two head gaskets per bank to
> better seal the
combustion chamber.
This will lower the compression ratio below 8.0:1.
The heads are very well done
and I don't see a gain of this and I never heard
of one where the gasket blew
off.
> Ball bearing 15G's? I may
need to rebuild my rear bank 15G turbo.
> Instead of rebuilding it though,
should I use this money and put it
> towards a pair of new ball bearing
units? Do the ball bearing turbo's
> really outperform the bushing
units?
Well, this highly depends on the quality of the bearings. I have
no experience
and even the 368s I have ar bushing types. As far as I
understand the bearing
type have less friction and generate less ehat due to
less force to the shaft.
But I doubt that on our twin turbo system two
bearing turbos can make a big
difference to the performance. Maybe life is
increased and regardign the rear
Turbo this is maybe a good idea
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 14:10:07 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exceeding the Redline
> Maybe it doesn't make any difference
for this application, but the
> SAVC-R monitors boost AFTER the throttle
body, teeing off of the FPR
> line coming from the rear of the
plenum. I guess the only difference
> would be measuring vacuum,
which is a non-issue for a manual BC.
The line that comes out on the
front of the plenum is the same as on the back
but a little larger for the
BPV line. It has the same function and works as good
as the other line at the
back.
The Redline BC is nothing else than a Halmann style BC or better
said "ball
spring valve". As Jim already said, installation is very
easy but I'm sure and
EBC gives you more possiblities on the
track.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Nov 1999 13:33:55 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <
robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S
Tech List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, 22 November 1999 01:40
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
>> 190l/hr, I think I have a different reading, I am just
timing 1 minute
and
>> seeing how much fuel comes out. I got 800ml X
60 = 48 l/hr....
>> my friends car runs 72
l/hr.
>
>On what pressure ? What voltage to the pump ? Idle
??
Not sure on the pressure yet, we are trying that later today.
Do
you know if it is a two speed pump?
Not sure on the voltage, standard 3000GT
pump?
I was on idle when I did that test.
>
>> Man these
cars are REALLY hard to get running right..
>
>Well, depends on the
tools :)
>
>> Is it possible to run 20psi I do we need to get
alot cooler somehow?
>
>You have to do a lot more for reliable
20psi. First, replace the turbos !
But
>all this is
pricey.
>
>> I need to get this going it is really starting to
annoy me, I have spent
all
>> this money and not getting the
performance I want.
>
>I cannot remember what money you spent on
what mods. Get a good filter,
bleeder
>valve, used 440cc injectors and
a used AFC, gut the precats, get a high
flow cat
>and a custom exhaust
and you're in the low 12s with 17/18psi boost. All
this
>stuff is only
about $800 maximum.
Yes I already have Hybrid 15G's with larger
turbine wheel for quicker
responce at low rev's.
I am running the HKS EVC
4, have a HKS F-Con. I also have 550cc injectors
that I can use but I don't
think I need them at this stage.
It is bored out to 3.2L with forged pistons
and compression of 7.8 : 1
All heads ported and polished and flowed.
Portmatched.
I don't have to have a Cat here, I have a straight 3.5"
pipe so no problems
there..
I have fancy valve springs that are suppose to
be able to stand 20psi
without blowing the valve of it's seat.
Ok so I
am pretty sweet just need the fuel pump and filter and the computer
that will
correctly map my flow and stop fuel cut.
Pump will be here in a couple of
days and new filter also.
Just need to find the BEST/CHEAPEST
computer.
Henry
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 21:44:50 -0600
From: Rah <
rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
Hello all, here to ask questions again,
I
have a 93 Stealth R/T TT, and what I understand to be the premium
6 speaker
sound system. I know currently Dodge's nicest stereos
available are
Infinity packages and along with those comes the unusual
setup with their own
amp and all. Does this apply here?
I'm looking to
maybe upgrade the speakers at some point possibly, so
I'm also wondering what
kind of speakers there are(specifically size)?
And how hard they are to
change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
is involved too)?
Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
oughta just pop off,
but the dash look like they could be more involved.
Thanks all in
advance!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 22:33:50 -0700
From: Dave <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth Stereo
Team3S: I was going to reply privately
as this isn't really technical, but
I thought there might be others curious
about it.. hope you all don't mind..
Rah wrote:
>
>
Hello all, here to ask questions again,
> I have a
93 Stealth R/T TT, and what I understand to be the premium
> 6 speaker
sound system. I know currently Dodge's nicest stereos
> available
are Infinity packages and along with those comes the unusual
> setup with
their own amp and all. Does this apply here?
I think several
options were available, but I believe all 3/S TT came with
factory
amplification (meaning, an external amp as opposed to just the
internal amp
in the head unit) by 93.. not positive on this though..
someone
please correct me if I'm wrong..
look under your passenger seat with it
all the way forward for a factory
amp.. it'll be easy to spot..
(btw, you can use aftermarket speakers with
this amp, but not an aftermarket
head unit..)
> I'm looking to maybe upgrade
the speakers at some point possibly, so
> I'm also wondering what kind of
speakers there are(specifically size)?
> And how hard they are to
change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
> is involved too)?
Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
> oughta just pop
off, but the dash look like they could be more involved.
actually, it's
just the opposite.. the dash speakers just pop/pry out, but
the door
and rear speakers need to have the panels (not the grills) removed
to access
them..
the dash speakers are the worst of the bunch to replace as far as
aftermarket
options go.. they're 3" (not 3.5") and nobody
seems to make that odd size..
(please, somebody tell me I'm wrong because I
need to replace these myself..)
I think the door speakers are 6.5" and
the rears are 6"x9", with plenty of
options available.. just
make sure to watch out for mounting depth problems
before you fall in love
with the sound of a particular speaker..
hope that helps..
- --
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 02:58:42 -0800
From: "nketo" <
nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth Stereo
Rah,
I can tell u what I did with my 1993
stealth, and the noticeable improvement
in sound I got.
First off, the '93
spec you have has an internal amp off the head unit.
If u replace this unit,
you'll lose the steering wheel controls for audio.
Period.
Your best
bet is to replace this unit with an aftermarket unit. I chose
Sony,
because of their
quality and easy hookup; they sell adapters to your stereo's
harness.
But more importantly, they have 4V outputs and seperate sub-outs;
important
if you're adding subs
later. (I origionally had one that
didn't, and later regretted it...so I
sold it and got the one that
did:))
The lines you can run along the door carpeting to a series of amps
in the
rear.
I wound recommend that the two front dash units be
replaced by tweeters and
crossovers
that will easily fit into the spots
where the factory ones use to be.
The doors I'd recommend mids (I think
4.5 to 5 inch, but I'll have to double
check),
the rear 6 by 9's (optional
tweeters can be placed here), and a pair of subs
in the trunk.
The
dash units are easiest to "pop" off, the doors require to remove
the
interior "skins", and
the rears require u to remove the rear
seats, and interior skins just over
the rear seat belt
assemblies: you'll
see one big section that's one piece with the screens.
The screens are
integral with the skins; DO NOT try to "pluck" them out!
Besides,
you'll need to wire and screw/unscrew the old assemblies; just
removing
the
screens doesn't allow for enough clearance to pull em out.
AND they're
a pain in the butt to get back in....:(
The 91-93 specs have 100 watts
total output, Mitsu. They were OK for a
factory system, but
if
you're looking for a system that pounds, forget it; they'll breakup
and
distort.
There are no crossovers in the factory system; only a few
caps.
94 upgraded to around 200 watts, Infinity.
If u go
aftermarket, you can easily get 400-500 watts (including subs) for
around
$1500-2000,
complete (depending on models u get)
I personally wired
everything, so if you're having trouble, lemme know and
I'll
see what I
can do to help. :)
Lates
Noble
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Rah <
rah@isd.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 21, 1999 7:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
>Hello all, here to ask questions
again,
> I have a 93 Stealth R/T TT, and what I
understand to be the premium
>6 speaker sound system. I know
currently Dodge's nicest stereos
>available are Infinity packages and
along with those comes the unusual
>setup with their own amp and
all. Does this apply here?
> I'm looking to maybe
upgrade the speakers at some point possibly, so
>I'm also wondering what
kind of speakers there are(specifically size)?
>And how hard they are to
change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
>is involved too)?
Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
>oughta just pop
off, but the dash look like they could be more involved.
>
>Thanks
all in advance!
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Nov 1999 12:14:11 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
> Not sure on the pressure yet, we are trying
that later today.
> Do you know if it is a two speed pump?
> Not
sure on the voltage, standard 3000GT pump?
> I was on idle when I did that
test.
Nonono, at idle you are having a vacuum that lowers fuel pressure,
the pump is switched down to about 6-8 Volts or even less and therefore the flow
is minimal :-) Testing is not always easy !
> Yes I already have
Hybrid 15G's with larger turbine wheel for quicker
> responce at low
rev's. I am running the HKS EVC 4, have a HKS F-Con.
> I also have
550cc injectors that I can use but I don't think I need them at this
stage.
> It is bored out to 3.2L with forged pistons and compression of
7.8 : 1
> All heads ported and polished and flowed. Portmatched.
> I
don't have to have a Cat here, I have a straight 3.5" pipe so no
problems
> there..
Nice setup, although I still don't like the
F-Con. If you ever have the chance sell it and either get a VPC or ARC/MAF kit.
You'll get much better results out of it. And I can tell you that you NEED the
fuel IF you are running more than 15psi. This, because our cars need to run
super-rich to avoid knock and the ECU does taking care of this and the injectors
are maxxed out even at 15psi ! Fue lcut will then jump in at about 17psi as the
values are jumping out of the map.
BUT: You have a lot of internals
changed and I believe it is not fully 3.2l as the walls would be too thin.
Anyways it is about 3.12 liters and this overbore can give you alot power. I
believe that the even lower compression is responsible for much less knock as
well as the forged pistons are.
> I have fancy valve springs that are
suppose to be able to stand 20psi
> without blowing the valve of it's
seat.
Idle is still ok ? Sometimes so heavy valve-springs do create more
stree to the adjusters/cams and you may need also stronger parts there
!
> Ok so I am pretty sweet just need the fuel pump and filter and the
computer
> that will correctly map my flow and stop fuel cut.
The
filter is ok if not clogged but, as mentioned, get a used VPC (Brad Bedell is
selling some parts) and you'll be able to get much more out of it as you do
today.
Damn, you definitely invested A LOT in your car and I'm sure that
it will withstand 20psi easily. Just make sure to measure the intake temperature
before the throttle body as you may start to think about a FMIC setup that is
able to deliver the desired bosot and air at the same time.
> Pump
will be here in a couple of days and new filter also.
> Just need to find
the BEST/CHEAPEST computer.
Those words do not go together. You can get a
used VPC setup alone for $600 used, but dunno what chip is included then and if
it is fully working. I recommend the ARC2-GP MAF kit as I have good experience
with it (only a little problem with temps under -5°C) and it handles
anything around fuel and air. Well, it is another $1000 (including air filter)
but I belive you can sell the F-Con to minimize costs. This setup, with 20psi of
boost, you'll be able to run into the 11s for sure and power will be around
560hp or so.
Get the good fuel control and you will get more than you
wanted :))
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Nov 1999 03:43:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Another round of questions...
1) I've installed 3 (fuel, tach,
speedo) of the 6 white face guages I have
for my 93 VR-4. I have the entire
guage set which includes the Volt meter
instead of having the boost guage
(for non turbo models). Since I have an
aftermarket boost guage (the Blitz
dual turbo timer) I was thinking maybe
I could install a volt meter into that
3rd spot.. Does this sound doable?
If so, any ideas on how I could do this?
2) Ive been reading
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589(Roger's
web site) and his 99 Dyno testing results are impressive to say
the least. He
shows that a US spec (9b turbos) w/ an AVC-R and a Blitz
SBOV makes 406 SAE
hp. By my understanding, this means he makes somewhere
in the range of
300-310 WHEEL hp. Is that right? Does this sound accurate,
or are these
results in a "best case" scenario?
3) I have recently found
out that my car had been pretty heavily modified
(15g turbos, alamo
sidemounts, etc.. ) before I bought it... I bought a 2
year/24k mile warentee
simply because I knew the tranny was bad (yay,
getting a new one in about 7
hours). Anyone have any other ideas what
problems the car could have? I know
that the stock exhaust sounds like
crap right now.. When standing behind it
it sounds fine except for the
ocational pop (kind of a muffled pop) that
sounds almost like the car is
backfiring. Could the timing be off?
3b) In relation to that last question, I've noticed that my Blitz
dual
turbo timer registers my max boost (except when shifting) at about
.42
Bar. This calculates out to only about 6.2 PSI of boost. I was told
that
that boost level sounds acurate for a 93 Wastegate (meaning that it is
old
and worn out, i believe). My question is, could the wastegate (since it
is
old and not holding the stock 8psi (or was it 9?) of boost) be
letting
exhaust out early? If its only giving me 6 psi of boost, what do you
think
my power output is? My only other mod is a K&N...
Final
question...
I'm getting a new tranny put in my car in about 7 hours
(after i get off
work) by the dealer. I have a GM warentee. They know the
tranny was bad
from the start but they are hiding it from GM. They put a new
clutch in my
car before I bought it, but within 3 weeks I found (and got a
professional
to look at it) that the clutch was adjusted wrong. It turned out
that
every time I shifted the clutch was getting ground off a bit because
the
clutch pedel wasnt adjusted right. Ive asked the dealer guys about
putting
in a new clutch since they fucked up the last one, but they claim
the
clutch should be fine. Is there any way I can get them to put in a
new
clutch? I'd rather not spend another $500 down the line for a new
clutch
if I can get them to do it now.
- --Matt
Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:47:04 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another round of questions...
> SBOV makes 406 SAE hp. By my
understanding, this means he makes somewhere
> in the range of 300-310
WHEEL hp. Is that right? Does this sound accurate,
> or are these results
in a "best case" scenario?
Well, this is with some conversion
factors that are not easy to explain. When you measure power with a G-Tech pro
you'll see about 260-270hp at the wheels and this is pretty accurate. The loss
is indeed large and this is why we are getting around 370hpflywheel measured on
the dyno (DIN-corrected). Our results were "worst case" as on the dyno
you do have not a good cooling of the charge air as well as the coolant. For
this we always open the hood to have additional cooling and less intake
temperatures. On the street it is possible that you have more power and the SAE
correction takes care of this.
> 3) I have recently found out that my
car had been pretty heavily modified
> (15g turbos, alamo sidemounts,
etc.. ) before I bought it... I bought a 2
> year/24k mile warentee simply
because I knew the tranny was bad (yay,
> getting a new one in about 7
hours). Anyone have any other ideas what
> problems the car could have? I
know that the stock exhaust sounds like
> crap right now.. When standing
behind it it sounds fine except for the
> ocational pop (kind of a muffled
pop) that sounds almost like the car is
> backfiring. Could the timing be
off?
So has the car this mods on or not ? I always check the compression
within 24 hours when I get a used car. I also check the look of the plugs, the
look of the belt and tensioner and the IC intake for any larger sign of oil. The
sound could be comming from heavily regapped plugs (down to 0.30) as this is
often the cause for such sounds. Other than that, the cats can be clogged or
even not working properly !
> 3b) In relation to that last question,
I've noticed that my Blitz dual
> turbo timer registers my max boost
(except when shifting) at about .42
> Bar.
What do you mean by
"except when shifting" ? The steady boost you tell is normal for a 1st
gen and it peaks up to 8psi asfter shifting and under full load in
3rd.
> This calculates out to only about 6.2 PSI of boost. I was told
that
> that boost level sounds acurate for a 93 Wastegate (meaning that it
is old
> and worn out, i believe). My question is, could the wastegate
(since it is
> old and not holding the stock 8psi (or was it 9?) of boost)
be letting
> exhaust out early?
Yes, can be but as said, this
sounds pretty normal. With this you'll see about 280-296hp on the
flywheel.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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