--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #341
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
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Team3S Digest Sunday,
November 21 1999 Volume 01 : Number
341
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:43:07 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Pump.
If I get a larger fuel pump that pumps 150l/hr would i
then be able to run
my 360cc Injectors at high boost, say 20psi? since I
would have a much
larger fuel pressure.
I was also told how to get rid of
the fuel cut. Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
the green/yellow wire connecting to
the air flow meter. I am going to try
these combinations because they are
MUCH cheaper than a $800 computer...
Thanks
Henry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 00:32:57 -0600
From: Rah <
rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Brakes
Hello all,
I'm new to my 93 Stealth R/T TT,
and noticed the brakes makin some
noise not long ago. I had the pads
replaced, and tried to downshift more
putting less strain on the brakes as I
have heard they wear fast or
something on these
cars.
Well, it's been like a month, and they're really
bad. Rolling @
20mph they're makin noise, applying the brakes at less
than 5mph they're
bad. And more. Is this at all typical? I
hope not, but when I have my
brakes looked at again is there anything special
to take care of?
Thanks all, I'm sure this topic's been exhausted in the
past,
- --Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 01:04:21 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: FWD(starnet): OT: MKIV website and war stories
oops. i
think i'll send this to the team3s list also. it could do
with a little
bit of humor every once in a blue moon. :)
Errin Humphrey
wrote:
> bone stock on average; some have dyno'd more. A BPU++
Supra (intake,
> dp, vsv pulled, ffcd, tcd) tends to dyno 400-440 hp at
the wheels, putting
oops. I think the full bpu++ list is intake,
dp, vsv, ffcd, tcd, and ebv and 12v.
ttc is optional. of course,
instead of vsv you could do hks evc or avcr, thus
making wot more aok.
ffcd saves you the trouble of going afc, but you it's
more common to use vpc
anyways, usually with gcc and aic for rcs. however
arc is looking like
a good alternative along with pms which lets you forgo itc.
just hope you
don't upset your ecu and pray that dp doesn't piss off obd.
don't
forget an ssbov, and while you're at it you might as toss the abv, go
for fmic,
block egr, modify your tps, and upgrade your ddic hed. did i
leave anything out?
this is what happens when i stay up too
late.
- --Errin Humphrey
Yellow 94 VR4
Seattle, wA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:55:57 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
> If I get a larger fuel pump that pumps
150l/hr would i then be able to run
> my 360cc Injectors at high boost,
say 20psi? since I would have a much
> larger fuel pressure.
First,
our pump is already 190 l/hr pump :) Therefore you'd like to get a 255
l/hr
or higher pump.
Also then, the fuel pressure is not much larger as the
fuel pressure is only
5psi higher as at 15psi of boost. Of course the pump is
then not the problem but
the ammount of fuel needed to cool the chamber is
the first and fuel cut the
second problem. The first is only 100% monitorable
by a knock sensor and other
instruments and we can not calculate the amount
of fuel needed for eleiminating
knock. Therefore, dumping fuel is the (not so
good) solution and this can only
be done with larger injectors or a special
fuel pressure riser. But fuel cut is
a problem as this will be initiated at
several conditions. One of them is when
the ECU calculates a value that is
out of the table. It then takes the biggest
one but after some unsuccessful
tries it thinks that there is something wrong
and initiates fuel cut ! The
only solution here is a fuel controller together
with larger
injectors.
Sorry the only "cheap" solution is a pressure riser
but this is not easy to tune
in !
> I was also told how to get rid
of the fuel cut. Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
> the green/yellow wire
connecting to the air flow meter. I am going to try
> these combinations
because they are MUCH cheaper than a $800 computer...
MAN ! Do you know
what you are doing then ? You are lowering the voltage of the
MAS signal but
this means you are faking the ECU liek you do with a fuel
controller. But you
are not having bigger injectors so you'll run in extra lean
situations. Good
luck but don't say I haven't warned you (get a quote from your
dealer for a
rebuild).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 12:09:15 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brakes
> noise not long ago. I had the pads replaced, and
tried to downshift more
> putting less strain on the brakes as I have
heard they wear fast or
> something on these cars.
What pads did
they put on, stock ? Normally there is a kit that comes
including all plates
and washers named "anti-squeel" stuff. If you use the
bads without
these parts, they will make clunks and screetchs.
You may remove one
front tire and check the pads. For a closer look of how
the stuff looks like
just go to my website under
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html
and feel free to ask if you
need more help.
Hope this
helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 08:17:08 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: 2
3Spoints
Yo Team;
1)The only stupid questions here, are the ones
you do not ask.
2)The cheapest fixes are likely the most
expensive.
These are complex cars which require a demystification process
if you're to
understand them. That process is usually through asking
questions and
getting hands on experience working with them. When considering
upgrades or
repairs, remember the price of the car and the price of a
rebuild. Does your
upgrade or repair adequately reflect this point. If it
does not, consider
waiting until you can afford it. It always surprises
me when I hear that
some people do not change their oil regularly because
synthetic is too
expensive to change every 2000, but by comparison their
monthly insurance is
far more expensive. Everything in
proportion.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:43:34 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes
At 12:32 AM 11/20/99 -0600, Rah wrote:
>Hello
all,
> I'm new to my 93 Stealth R/T TT, and noticed the
brakes makin some
>noise not long ago. I had the pads replaced, and tried
to downshift more
>putting less strain on the brakes as I have heard they
wear fast or
>something on these cars.
Bad idea. As someone once
said, it's easier to replace brakes than it is to
replace an engine, clutch
and transmission.
>
> Well, it's been like a
month, and they're really bad. Rolling @
>20mph they're makin noise,
applying the brakes at less than 5mph they're
>bad. And more.
Is this at all typical? I hope not, but when I have my
>brakes
looked at again is there anything special to take care of?
Get the rotors
turned. Sounds like they are warped.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop
me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 12:10:42 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes
Roger suggests:>
>What pads did they put on,
stock ? Normally there is a kit that comes
>including all plates and
washers named "anti-squeel" stuff. If you use the
>bads without
these parts, they will make clunks and screetchs.
Roger may be on to
something. It's so hard to push all four pistons back
into the calipers, I
can see that an incompetent shop might very well leave
out the plates to gain
just a bit more clearance so they can slip the new
pads in. They are thin
steel plates, shaped the same as the pads, and go
between the pads and the
pistons. There can be one or two per side.
Pull a wheel, and look
carefully at the calipers, pads, and rotors. Since
you haven't been in there
before, you probably don't know what to expect,
so check Roger's site. You
have four-piston calipers, with two pistons on
each side of the rotor. When
you peer inside the caliper assembly, you
should be able to see (going from
outside to inside) two pistons side by
side, the steel plate, outside
pad, rotor, inside pad, steel plate, and two
pistons. A metal springy-thing
in the middle holds the pads down.
The whole deal is held together by two
locating pins that are secured by a
retainer spring on the inside. Make sure
nothing is loose in this assembly.
You may be able to wiggle the metal
springy-thing a little, but that's it.
Everything else should be
tight.
Make sure you see the silvery steel plates on both sides. Also
look to see
if a plate has slipped -- it can be difficult to get the
retaining pins to
go through the caliper, plate, pad, metal springy thing,
pad, plate and
caliper, and sometimes they miss the inside plate. If so, it
hangs down,
held by one pin, and rattles around against the rotor. You may
not be able
to see it, but you can sometimes feel it with your fingers. Or
you might
look through the wheel spokes and see it dangling in the back.
If you find anything wrong, take it back to the shop and complain
loudly.
If everything is present and accounted for, then it may be a warped
rotor.
Rich/old pop
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:45:23 -0700
From: "CORY ESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Test
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For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 10:45:10 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ground Control Kit in at last!
- -----Original Message-----From:
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>At
05:55 PM 11/19/99 -0800, Mohler, Jeff wrote:
>>WHat?
>>You
have one rear wheel with neg. camber, and the other with
positive
camber?
>
>No, on the front. My mechanic went into a long
dissertation on how
to
>correct castor by changing camber, but I didn't
follow it all.
Besides,
>it's only a teeny bit off, and everything is
within factory specs.
>
>My problem is that I'd like to have
negative camber on both fronts,
and
>I'll need a camber plate to get it
AND cure the castor problem..
>>
>>Who cares what caster is,
caster just makes the 'feel' of the
wheel
>different in
>>how
the car wants to straighten itself out, and how large the
'dead
zone'
>is at
>>the center of the wheel in turning
transitions.
FYI, from our soon-to-be-released FAQ page...
-
---------------------------
Q::: Caster isn't adjustable on out cars,
right? (BTW, what
exactly IS the caster angle -
physically?) Have never needed to
pay attention to it...
:-)
A::: {From the description at
www.TireRack.com}: If you think
back
to your bicycle and remember how the tire tilted slightly
when
turned, that was caster causing the tilt. If you drew an
imaginary
line through the upper and lower ball joints and compared the
angle
of difference to a line drawn perpindicular to the ground,
the
resulting difference is the caster angle. Caster settings allow
the
manufacturer to balance low speed steering effort and high
speed
stability. Increasing the amount of positive caster will
increase
low speed steering effort, but improve high speed stability.
Caster
also tends to cause an increase in the amount of negative camber
as
the steering angle is increased.
-
---------------------------
On the other hand, from the
'Bob-is-a-smartass' archive, "Castor" is
from Greek mythology (the
story of infamous twins Castor and Pollux,
for whom a bright twin-star in the
Gemini constellation is named).
It is also the namesake of the insidious
'Castor Oil', known for
it's cathartic and lubricant properties... And
the name of the
musty oil secreted by beavers, used in perfumery...
(Don't even
THINK about it!) :-)
Trivia Lesson over...
:-)
Professor Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:32:53 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes
> noise not long ago. I had the pads replaced, and
tried to downshift more
> putting less strain on the brakes as I have
heard they wear fast or
> something on these cars.
I would think
twice before changing driving habits to shift wear from
the brakes to the
transmission, especially a Getrag transmission! These
are heavy cars
and the brakes are taxed. However, a clutch is more
expensive to
replace AND you are increasing wear on the synchros.
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:33:34 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
> I was also told how to get rid of the
fuel cut. Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
> the green/yellow wire connecting to
the air flow meter. I am going to try
> these combinations because they
are MUCH cheaper than a $800 computer...
Yeah, and just disconnecting the
hose from the pressure sensor to
maximize boost is MUCH cheaper than a $500
electronic boost
controller... until you ruin your engine!
Remember,
fuel cut happens for a reason! Mitsu didn't build it in to
the ECU just
as an inconvenience! If you're getting fuel cut, then
there is a
problem. You will be better off attacking the cause rather
than the
effect.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 17:51:54 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VPC, GCC, G-force ECU for sale
For Sale:
VPC, GCC and
G-force ECU. I'm taking best offers on these pieces, I will
need
your stock ECU in place of the G-force unit. I have 5-6
different
programs for the G-force ECU.
The VPC has a 550cc chip in
it.
Also for sale: Pearl white VR4 active aero wing, hood,
headlights, front &
rear bumper. Parts need painted but otherwise
are in good condition.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 17:59:47 -0700
From: Dave <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: plugs then boost controller?
I'm planning on changing my plugs in
the next week or two, and I wondered
how much power I might lose by gapping
them to .034 even though I don't
have a boost controller yet. I hope to
either get one or buy myself one
for x-mas, so the gap would be appropriate
then, but I would probably be
driving the car for a month at stock boost and
a lower gap.
or should I just wait till I get the bc? any
thoughts?
also, I'm trying to decide what bc I want.. from
everything I've read
here and starnet, the Apexi AVC-R seems to be a
universal favorite.. I
know it's been discussed several times lately,
but does anyone have
anything bad to say about this unit? or where the
best deal on one is?
oh, and I will be getting a boost gauge as well in
case you were going
to suggest that..
:)
thanks!
Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 19:30:06 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Exceeding the Redline
Help. I'm trying to figure out how to
install the Redline manual boost
controller (MBC). It's weird, but you turbo
experts may be able to figure
it out.
Quoting from the so-called
"installation brochure" from Redline (complete
with
typos):
The Redline boost controller uses a spring and ball bearing.
Here's how it
works: pressure builds on the inlet side of the valve (from the
BOV line
off the manifold) and begins to exert a pressure on the ball
opposite the
spring. At some point the force exerted by the air on the ball
will equal
the force exerted by the spring. Up to this point, no air has been
bled
from your intake system.
To install: Attach the pressure fitting
to the BOV with a T fitting so that
the ball see's boost...then attatch the
air bleed to the intake box where
there is no boost pressure. The other end
attaches to the wastgate.
To set boost, all you have to do is tighten
down the ends so that tension
on the spring is increased. To lock
it,...insert the locking C rings over
the threads.
Setting boost is
that easy!
___________
Any of you turbo wizards out there have the
foggiest idea of what he's
talking about? Attach it to the BOV
where?
Glenn Cope, who had one installed, said he couldn't figure out how to
make
it work by following Redline's instructions, but got it to work a
different
way. He says, "So I went from the top line off of the y-pipe
bend...hooked
that into the MBC and then fed the MBC directly into the waste
gate hoses.
I just plugged off the stock solenoid hoses."
Glen
also thinks the system is designed for single-turbo cars, such
as
Eclipses.
Here's the link if you want to look at it:
http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/RedlinePROformance.htmIt's
only $59, so I don't mind tossing it if it's not going to work. I'll
go to a
bleeder valve if this doesn't work.
(No, I'm not getting an electronic
boost controller yet, because I am still
under warranty. If I blow it up, I
need a system that can come off quickly
and easily.)
Any ideas on how
to make this work?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:30:42 +1300
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exceeding the Redline
> Any of you turbo wizards out there
have the foggiest idea
> of what he's talking about? Attach it to the BOV
where?
> Glenn Cope, who had one installed, said he couldn't figure
> out how to make it work by following Redline's instructions,
>
but got it to work a different way. He says, "So I went
> from the
top line off of the y-pipe bend...hooked that into
> the MBC and then fed
the MBC directly into the waste gate
> hoses. I just plugged off the
stock solenoid hoses."
Read Roger's page at the following URL:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/turbo_basics.htmlIn
short, what your wastegate setup currently looks like is:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzip5t.gifI
think what Glenn has done is very similar to the Blitz
setup and is pictured
in the following:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzipt.gifEither
way, if you read Roder's writeup at this location I
think you will find the
whole "Turbo/Boost" issue far easier
to
understand.
Cheers,
Kevin.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Nov 1999 22:45:48 -0800
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Few engine building questions
I am contemplating rebuilding my
engine this winter/spring and have been
wondering about a couple items as
follows:
Pistons? At what boost / horsepower level are upgraded
forged pistons
recommended (JE pistons for example)? I do have the
necessary fuel
upgrades and a datalogger to monitor knock levels. Can I
expect to
safely run mid 11's with stock pistons?
Head gaskets?
Has anyone tried using two head gaskets per bank to
better seal the
combustion chamber. All cylinder heads experience head
lift, most
severe at peak torque when the highest MEP is experienced.
Head gaskets are
designed to seal the combustion chamber up to a certain
head lift. Many
OEMs are going to multilayer gaskets these days with
the higher output of
engines. I know our factory head gasket is already
multilayer, but the
more layers (i.e. more than one gasket/bank) the
more head lift the joint can
handle without failing/leaking. This has
been and is done on some
racing programs I know of. I realize this will
slightly decrease the
compression ratio, but it allows higher cylinder
pressures without worrying
about leaking. I don't recall anyone having
bad luck with the factory
head gaskets, so maybe I need not worry here.
Ball bearing 15G's? I
may need to rebuild my rear bank 15G turbo.
Instead of rebuilding it though,
should I use this money and put it
towards a pair of new ball bearing
units? Do the ball bearing turbo's
really outperform the bushing
units?
Thanks in advance,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
Best E.T. of
12.23 @ 113
Best trap speed of 118.8 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 18:06:16 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
- ---Original Message-----
From: R.G. <
robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S
Tech List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, 21 November 1999 00:10
Subject: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
>> If I get a larger fuel pump that pumps 150l/hr would i
then be able to
run
>> my 360cc Injectors at high boost, say 20psi?
since I would have a much
>> larger fuel
pressure.
>
>First, our pump is already 190 l/hr pump :) Therefore
you'd like to get a
255
>l/hr or higher pump.
>
>Also then,
the fuel pressure is not much larger as the fuel pressure is
only
>5psi
higher as at 15psi of boost. Of course the pump is then not the
problem
but
>the ammount of fuel needed to cool the chamber is the first and fuel
cut
the
>second problem. The first is only 100% monitorable by a knock
sensor and
other
>instruments and we can not calculate the amount of
fuel needed for
eleiminating
>knock. Therefore, dumping fuel is the
(not so good) solution and this can
only
>be done with larger injectors
or a special fuel pressure riser. But fuel
cut is
>a problem as this
will be initiated at several conditions. One of them is
when
>the ECU
calculates a value that is out of the table. It then takes
the
biggest
>one but after some unsuccessful tries it thinks that there
is something
wrong
>and initiates fuel cut ! The only solution here is
a fuel controller
together
>with larger injectors.
>
>Sorry
the only "cheap" solution is a pressure riser but this is not easy
to
tune
>in !
190l/hr, I think I have a different reading, I
am just timing 1 minute and
seeing how much fuel comes out. I got 800ml X 60
= 48 l/hr....
my friends car runs 72 l/hr.
Sorry if my information
sounds screwed..
Man these cars are REALLY hard to get running
right..
>
>> I was also told how to get rid of the fuel
cut. Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
>> the green/yellow wire connecting to
the air flow meter. I am going to try
>> these combinations because
they are MUCH cheaper than a $800 computer...
>
>MAN ! Do you know
what you are doing then ? You are lowering the voltage of
the
>MAS
signal but this means you are faking the ECU liek you do with a
fuel
>controller. But you are not having bigger injectors so you'll run in
extra
lean
>situations. Good luck but don't say I haven't warned you
(get a quote from
your
>dealer for a rebuild).
No that was not a
good idea at all, got alot worse. Someone with a VR4
Eterna did that but
dosn't work on our cars.
Ok so what do you think?, A Map computer that will
control everything and
run the 550cc injectors?
Is it possible to run
20psi I do we need to get alot cooler somehow?
I need to get this going
it is really starting to annoy me, I have spent all
this money and not
getting the performance I want.
Help
please
Henry
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>
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Date:
Sun, 21 Nov 1999 08:18:56 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exceeding the Redline
Merritt wrote:
>
>
pressure builds on the inlet side of the valve (from the BOV line
> off
the manifold) and begins to exert a pressure on the ball opposite the
>
spring.
Maybe it doesn't make any difference for this application, but
the
SAVC-R monitors boost AFTER the throttle body, teeing off of the
FPR
line coming from the rear of the plenum. I guess the only
difference
would be measuring vacuum, which is a non-issue for a manual
BC.
At any rate, this should be a trivial install. But why did you
decide
to go with a manual controller? What with your involvement in
racing
and planned future upgrades, I think the new SAVC-R would be a
wise
investment.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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