--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #338
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Wednesday,
November 17 1999 Volume 01 : Number
338
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:37:38 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Help with S-AVC-R Set-up
Jim in Germany-
Thanks much for
your response!
>This does not seem right. Does the boost
stabilize eventually? ie-
>does boost spike only when you first get
on the gas and then level out
>at your 1.0 bar setting?
I'm not sure
what you would call stabilizing. It overshoots on the way
to high rpm,
but due to the OEM turbos, of course, it drops well
below 1 bar at 6000 rpm;
usually about 0.88 bar.
>> Question No. 1: Does the learning
process simply change the actual BADC
>> to a value that facilitates
your selection of maximum boost?
>The BADC you specify is not changed
during the learning process - it is
>always used as an estimate of how
much the solenoid must work to achieve
>the desired boost setting.
The learning process is more of an
>optimization of how boost is
controlled based on the characteristics of
>your engine.
You're over my
head here. What other than BADC can the boost controller
affect?
I choose what max boost I want, and it modifies BADC to try to
achieve
it. Is my thinking incorrect here?
>>Repeated runs will
result in faster stabilization of boost, but again,
>if your BADC is too
high, it will continue to overboost. That is a
>"feature"
of the BADC setting.
I don't understand this "feature." If
this is true, what good is the
learning
process?
Thanks again for
your response!
Regards,
ptg
PS- I've taken the liberty of passing
this post on to the 3S list, in hopes
of getting a wider response. Hope
you don't object.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:54:55 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re Clutches
> Hmmm...a lot of comment there Matt, for no
personal
> experience with the product.
I paid attention to what
others were saying on the list, as I wanted to buy one as well but had missed
the Group Purchase on them. The products claims certainly sounded
great. One of the local MN 3/S members went through a few of them, but I
won't share his thoughts on it on his behalf. He'll comment if he so
desires. The comments on the list, combined with his personal experience
scared me off.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 17:00:51 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Help with S-AVC-R Set-up
"
> >> Question
No. 1: Does the learning process simply change the actual BADC
> >>
to a value that facilitates your selection of maximum boost?
>
>
>The BADC you specify is not changed during the learning process - it
is
> >always used as an estimate of how much the solenoid must work to
achieve
> >the desired boost setting. The learning process is
more of an
> >optimization of how boost is controlled based on the
characteristics of
> >your engine.
> You're over my head
here. What other than BADC can the boost controller
> affect?
I choose what max boost I want, and it modifies BADC to try to
> achieve
it. Is my thinking incorrect here?
I'm not sure about your style,
but this is indeed how the NEW SAVC-R operates.
If learn mode is enabled,
duty values are learned and modified in order to
achieve the specified
boost. If learn is disabled, the duty values remain the
same.
-
--
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:08:33 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re Clutches
My negative comments about Rob and RPS are in the
archives. I felt I was
flat lied to on my
"warranty" If anyone wants more specific details, I'll
be
glad to share them.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Darcy Gunnlaugson
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 5:58 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re Clutches
>> The failure
percentile is VERY low.
>
>Hmm, it really sounded like at least half
the 3/S Turbo Carbon Claw
clutches that came out of the group purchase were
bad, with a significant
number of the "replacement" clutches also
being bad. That's a pretty high
failure percentage in my book.
I'd think something like 5% might be
acceptable, but 50%+ is not. There
was also mention of RPS making promises
to send a check to help with the
costs incurred in having a clutch
replacement re-done, and then checks being
a different amount or no check at
all.
>
>Since I didn't buy one
of those clutches, I won't comment any more than
that.
Hmmm...a
lot of comment there Matt, for no personal experience with the
product
.
I'd be real interested in the actual failure rate of these clutches, as
I am
a purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed, so I am not in
the
position to comment, let alone pass on heresy as to their
attributes or
lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was impeccable, however, and
I would ask
for those in the group purchase to comment as Andy recently
has, as to
their satisfaction or not ,with the product, and the customer
service. Only
in this way are rumors dispelled or given credence. Brad?
Roger? Others?
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:24:15 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Admin
note
Yo Team;
A short interruption to your regular programming: a
reminder NOT to create
bounces to our list. Forrest had to deal with 40 of
them today. Please
revisit the rules if you are unclear as to this. Also, a
reminder that this
is a gentleman's/woman's list, where fluff, chat, flames,
and the likes, are
clearly "verboten".
Now back to your
regular programming.
Best
Darc --for the admins
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 18:06:23 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
I am not sure, they were with my engine on a jet
boat..
But all should be fine soon, I am installing a LINK computer to
control te
injectors.
I am using a HKS F-Con.
Just running the engine
in on the standard injectors at the moment
though.
Thanks.
Henry
- -----Original Message-----
From:
R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
team3s <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, 16 November 1999 08:05
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
>Short Admin Warning : Please do not use HTML
(Rich-Text) in your post.
Onyl
>use normal Text. Thanks
!
>
>> I have just installed my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs
and 550cc
>injectors.
>
>Good decision !
>
>>
My injectors have a different Ohm requirement so I have some
resistors
>hooked into the injectors, I am
>> not sure if
this is working and my car is running VERY rich.
>
>The question
from Matt is right : What fuel control are you using ?
>
>The two
stock fuel maps are too small and cannot adapt for the bigger
>injectors.
Even 440cc are too large and the figures are out of the map.
>
>What
injectors have you choosen ? Our system uses a resistor pack for
the
>injectors and if the current to drive them is different, then also
the
>driving parts must be changed. As Matt stated correctly, the
driver
>transistors are in danger !
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 18:14:02 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
I think my Link computer will fix the problem
with the injectors, these same
injectors on the jet boat were using a Link
computer.Approx $400 US, pretty
cheap , New Zealand made! :-)
I know
the F-Con is rather Old, but I can't afford everything especially
after the
engine. It is also a 3200cc now with slightly lower compression.
I also
insatlled a Lambda Link, measures my O2. Rich still, and how come it
dosn't
sow lean when I am using my standard injectors and 15psi??, maybe it
isn't
earthed correctly.
What CO readings should it have, it goes right to 9% when
only at around
10psi.
Thanks
Henry
- -----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. <
robby@swissonline.ch>
To: team3s
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, 16 November 1999 08:28
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
>> I am running a HKS F-CON, it is running on 0 but
still very rich, I am
sure
>> the injectors are not compatable or
the auto electrician wired them to
the
>> resistors
wrong..
>
>Well, the F-CON is not the first choice for our cars. It
may work but not
>perfect. But you'll find out when you have the correct
injectors.
>
>> Do you think I need a new computer to handle the
new injectors?
>
>Yes, get rid of the F-CON and leave the ECU where
it is.
>
>> Opps I meant 180MPH+ that
possible?
>
>Yes, but you must run on about 1.3 bars of boost and
you need something to
cool
>down the excessive discharge temperature. I
runned 174mph (the speedo
showed
>mroe than 300km/h) with boost at
about 1.25 bars (you know how I killed the
>engine) More is very hard to
get as it needs a lot more tourque to
maintain
the
>speed.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 04:08:13 EST
From:
Gr8crash@aol.comSubject: Team3S: AWD
mini-vans
does anyone know how the rear in the AWD mini-vans are setup?
are the coil or
leaf springs? what is the power split between front and
rear? how much power
can it handle?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 03:38:26 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: REPORTING GETRAG FAILURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bill Wagner
wrote:
> There is a guy (JC) on the
www.3si.org web site that's collecting
data
> about Getrag failures. IF YOUR GETRAG HAS FAILED ON YOU, PLEASE GO
TO
> THAT WEB SITE AND FILL IN YOUR
INFO.
Bill,
For everybody's benefit, what area
of the site? I could not find this.
> --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 02:37:58 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Honey I punched my honey combs
Hello again
everybody,
Here's the deal: Joshua Prince is selling me a set of honey
combs for my MAF
unit. However, the MAF unit of his is not really working.
However, the honey
combs are still in tact. The question is can I swap the
honey combs from his MAF
unit to my current unit without running into any
problems?
According to Joshua, (and we have been conversing for some
time), "There is a
plastic piece which is attached by like 4 screws
which hold them in. If you
unscrew those bolts they will fall out and
then you can just place them in your
unit." I just need to know for sure
that I can do this; otherwise it would be
pointless for me to buy it as I
might just have to buy a new or used MAF unit
with the honey combs in tact
and the unit working.
Finally, for those of u who are using the ARC unit,
I am aware that it replaces
the stock MAF unit; Anyone, willing to part with
their old MAF unit and sell it
to me for a reasonable price? I just need to
be sure before I go ahead and just
buy the honey combs and start inserting it
into my current MAF unit when
actually it is not possible. Haven't really
asked anyone this question, except
for Errin.
I am typing in plain
text using font 12 and Times New Roman and it looks really
weird.
Hmm...Errin...I hope this looks ok. Somebody tell me if there is
something
wrong.
Some help in trying to decide whether to get a new MAF vs. just
honey combs
would be REAL NICE! :)
Thanks people,
Julian
Ng
94 GTO Pearl White
gtovr4@postalzone.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:34:23 +0000
From: Francis Morice <
fas3@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re Clutches
Darcy,
I have been reading the posts on the
clutch debate over the last few
weeks and have
decided to share my
experiences with RPS. I also bought the TCC back in
June(not part
of
the group purchase) and had it installed. After driving close to
1000
miles on it I
decided to try a drag type launch and it slipped in 1st and
2nd. To
it's credit it
never slipped again until a month ago when it
started slipping in 4th,
5th, and 6th,
which led me to believe that
the disc had been worn down. I found this
to be true when
I had the
car in for service a couple weeks ago and they had the tranny
out.
The
service tech said the disc was worn down to the rivets. I
only took
the car to the
track once, with 9 runs.
I spoke with Rob
at RPS and he said he would replace it under warranty,
but he needed
me to
send the disc and the pressure plate before he could send me the
new
disc. I'm a
little upset because now my car is going to sit on a
friend's lift for 2
to 3 weeks
while I wait for the new one to come.
Also Rob is sending my $150 check
for my
troubles, when I thought he was
giving $200, as a fellow MN 3/s member received.
Needless to say I would
probably not buy another RPS product in the
future. By the
way, I
only put about 5k miles on the car with the new clutch. Mods
so
far: HKS
megaflow, magnacore wires, gutted pre-cats, test pipe
and bleeder valve
set at
14psi.
Later,
Francis
96RT/TT
13.13 @104.87
Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
> >> The failure percentile is VERY
low.
> >
> >Hmm, it really sounded like at least half the 3/S
Turbo Carbon Claw
> clutches that came out of the group purchase were bad,
with a significant
> number of the "replacement" clutches also
being bad. That's a pretty high
> failure percentage in my
book. I'd think something like 5% might be
> acceptable, but 50%+ is
not. There was also mention of RPS making promises
> to send a check
to help with the costs incurred in having a clutch
> replacement re-done,
and then checks being a different amount or no check at
> all.
>
>
> >Since I didn't buy one of those clutches, I won't comment any
more than
> that.
>
> Hmmm...a lot of comment there Matt, for
no personal experience with the
> product .
>
> I'd be real
interested in the actual failure rate of these clutches, as I am
> a
purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed, so I am not in the
>
position to comment, let alone pass on heresy as to their attributes
or
> lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was impeccable, however, and I
would ask
> for those in the group purchase to comment as Andy
recently has, as to
> their satisfaction or not ,with the product, and the
customer service. Only
> in this way are rumors dispelled or given
credence. Brad? Roger? Others?
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:47:37 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)"
<
MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch experiences(long)
I'm one of the MN3S members that has
had some experiences with RPS and their
clutches. I'll tell you my
story and you can make up your minds.
I purchased my RPS TCC after the
group purchase(got mine in June). I
installed it myself, had the
flywheel resurfaced per spec with new TOB.
After installing, I immediately
noticed that the pedal pressure seemed
lighter than the stock pedal
pressure(I figured it was because of new TOB
and lube on input shaft) and
that it "chattered" really bad when starting to
move. This
"chattering" was pretty extreme, but I though it was normal with
a
"performance" clutch(my wife didn't like it though).
Well, I
put the 500mi on with BC turned off(6psi) and then eased into some
more
aggressive driving. Rather than just doing 4-5K clutch dumps, I
would
get more aggressive with the throttle while letting the clutch slip
a
little. This led to MAJOR slipping....even to the point that when I
shifted
into 2nd and hit the gas(with clutch completely engaged) the clutch
would
slip. I then put a few more miles on it before being
aggressive again.
The next time I did a 4-5K clutch dump and the clutch would
slip, but not as
bad as when I slipped it a little. I just could not
get the tires to spin.
I did this a few times over the next couple of days
with the same
result(clutch had about 700mi on it).
At this point I
let Matt at AA know about my problems and he called me back
after talking
with Rob at RPS. This is when Rob said that there had been
some quality
issues with the clutch disks(no mention of the pressure plate).
Rob said that
he was making up some new disks for the people that were
having problems and
would ship them as soon as they were ready along with a
$200 check to help
offset the installation costs. I wanted a new clutch
disk in my hands
before I took mine out...so that was part of the bargain
as
well.
Interestingly, the clutch seemed to get better over
time. The chatter
lessened and it seemed to start to grab better.
It took about 1.5 months to
get the new clutch and I had about 1500mi on the
old one.
When the new clutch came, opened the box and guess what....I got
the clutch
disk AND pressure plate. It seems that after checking the
pressure plates,
RPS found some quality issues in the PPs as well.
Their clamping force was
less than spec'd. I installed the new
clutch(again turning the flywheel)
and I noticed that the "chatter"
was gone. The clutch was almost silky
smooth from the get-go(as close
to stock as one could expect.) I was
pleased! I thought, even
though the old clutch seemed to get better over
time, there must have been
something wrong with it from the start because of
the excessive chatter and
initial slipping. I sent my old clutch back and a
few weeks later
received my $200 check from RPS.
I now have about 2.5K miles on the
clutch with pretty aggressive street
driving, one road course drivers school,
one drag race(1.8 60's with one 1.7
60') and it is holding fine.
While
waiting for my new clutch I installed(Julyish) the TCC in another
members car
(This was supposed to be one of the new disks). After the
install I
noticed that there was little or no chatter(compared to my old
clutch).
And he seemed to be happy with the clutch after the 500mi BI
period. He
drag raced it one weekend and also seemed happy....In Sept I
received a call
from him stating that the clutch feel has
changed...chattering more and
possibly slipping. We were supposed to get
together the next weekend
and I was going to check it out. We never got
together and a few weeks
later(Oct) I got another call from him stating that
the clutch was indeed
slipping in 4th and 5th. He called RPS and the
process started
again.
He had the car in a couple a weeks ago for service and they had to
remove
the tranny/clutch. They said that the clutch disk was down to
the rivets
with only ~4k-5k miles on it. Doesn't seem possible unless
the disk was
defective or was slipping all the time?? He called RPS and
ROB said that
this can sometimes happen if the resins in the carbon fiber
layers don't
cure properly. The layers will actually peel off
decreasing the life of the
clutch disk. He has to send his disk and
pressure plate in for inspection
and replacement before he gets his $150
check for installation.
Well, this concerns me because my car is now
parked for the winter and my
warranty is going to be up before I get any more
miles on it. It is holding
very well and the clutch feel is very good
now. But how long is it going to
last. I was hoping for 15K-20K
miles 2-3 years for me. But if I start
driving in the spring and only
get another 1 or 2k out of the clutch I will
not be pleased for $500 plus my
time!!
This is sooner than I planned, but I'm going to pull the tranny
again this
winter and replace the 1-2 synchro(I was going to wait until it
was really
bad). While the tranny is out I'm going to inspect the
clutch disk for wear
and try to get it covered if it is wearing
excessively.
These are my experiences.....All of this leads to two
questions.
How was I treated by RPS?
Very well...It did take a while
to get my new clutch, but I wanted
them to have their process issues
straightened out before they made my
clutch. I received everything I
was promised.
Would I buy/recommend another RPS clutch?
With what I
know right now...NO. If, when I pull my tranny again
and the clutch is
wearing ok then probably Yes.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT(mods resulting
in ~400hp)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 17:44:55 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Help with S-AVC-R Set-up
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > >> Question No. 1: Does the learning process simply change
the actual BADC
> > >> to a value that facilitates your selection
of maximum boost?
> >
> > >The BADC you specify is not
changed during the learning process - it is
> > >always used as an
estimate of how much the solenoid must work to achieve
> > >the
desired boost setting. The learning process is more of an
> >
>optimization of how boost is controlled based on the characteristics
of
> > >your engine.
> >
> > You're over my head
here. What other than BADC can the boost controller
> >
affect? I choose what max boost I want, and it modifies BADC to try
to
> > achieve it. Is my thinking incorrect here?
>
> I'm not sure about your style, but this is indeed how the NEW SAVC-R
operates.
> If learn mode is enabled, duty values are learned and modified
in order to
> achieve the specified boost. If learn is disabled, the
duty values remain the
> same.
Interesting. With the previous
generation SAVC-R (which Paul and I
have), if the BADC is set too high,
overboost will NEVER go away.
Overall boost response will improve as time
goes on (eg- levels off
faster, less hesitation throughout rev band, etc.),
but an excessive
BADC will always result in pressures higher than the set
limit. Not
sure what is going on behind the scenes.
This gets
back to the old discussion about why the BADC is there at
all. The
pressure sensor tells the unit everything it needs to know for
it to come up
with its own BADC curve, so why is the user involved in
this process at
all? This is why I consider it a "feature" (loosely)
-
despite a max boost setting, I can use the BADC to get a
consistent
temporary overboost, which is fine (and desirable, IMO) since
knock is
less of an issue in these cases.
At any rate, Paul's SAVC-R
seems to be ignoring the BADC altogether - he
should not be seeing 1.2 bar
with such low BADC settings!
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 13:17:25 -0500
From: Bill Wagner <
wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: REPORTING GETRAG FAILURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To report the
failure:
1. Go to www.3si.org
2. When the page loads, click on the
"message board" button
3. The bulletin board menu will show up.
Click on "anything goes"
4. Another menu will show up. Click on
"3000GT/Stealth International"
5. All the posts will show up.
6. If you haven't registered, look under the "Post New Topic" and
click
on register and follow the instructions
7. Return to the bulletin
board (post listing) and look for the topic:
"Getrag Tranny
failures (post failures only, no discussions)"
8. Post your
failure.
It's EASY!!!!
Good Luck,
Bill
Wagner
Jeff Crabtree wrote:
>
> Bill Wagner
wrote:
>
> > There is a guy (JC) on the www.3si.org web site
that's collecting data
> > about Getrag failures. IF YOUR GETRAG HAS
FAILED ON YOU, PLEASE GO TO
> > THAT WEB SITE AND FILL IN YOUR
INFO.
>
> Bill,
>
> For
everybody's benefit, what area of the site? I could not find this.
>
> > --
>
> -Jeff Crabtree
>
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
> '93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
>
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 10:12:49 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Honey I punched my honey combs
> Here's the deal: Joshua
Prince is selling me a set of honey combs for my MAF
> unit. However, the
MAF unit of his is not really working. However, the honey
> combs are
still in tact. The question is can I swap the honey combs from his MAF
>
unit to my current unit without running into any problems?
Should be if
they are the same MAF. Are they the same cars (VR4s?)?
>
>
According to Joshua, (and we have been conversing for some time), "There is
a
> plastic piece which is attached by like 4 screws which hold them
in.
Have Joshua send you the plastic piece and screws too if you
need them.
> If you
> unscrew those bolts they will fall out and
then you can just place them in your
> unit." I just need to know for
sure that I can do this; otherwise it would be
> pointless for me to buy
it as I might just have to buy a new or used MAF unit
> with the honey
combs in tact and the unit working.
I had to use needle nose pliers to
pull mine out. (I removed the bottom one for
awhile but have now
reinstalled it). Use a 16 penny nail or a hex wrench to
straighten out
the honeycombs if you need to.
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 13:32:39 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Junk/Grinding Trans Needed! RTP!
I need broken and/or grinding gears
3000GT VR4 or
Stealth TwinTurbo transmissions, cheap.
Ideally I would like
both a 5 speed and a 6 speed.
These will be going to a fabricator with the
idea of
MAKING PARTS/re-machining so they actually
WORK when done, and so
the stock (JUNK)
synchronizer mechanisms are improved to work
far longer
and better! They have experience doing
exactly this with Getrags
already but not yet with
ours. I am sending them a NEW set of synchros
I
had saved for myself, for them to inspect.
I am willing to pay but again,
I want a broken or
grinding one so not much. Even if case
is
cracked, that is ok. Broken transfer cases too.
These are going
to be donated out of the goodness
of my heart :) to the fabricator to tear
down, inspect,
figure out how to do the job, and thus help us
ALL.
Getrag no longer has any repair parts, they have
been sold off
and sent to CRS, the rebuilder company
that has taken over the rebuilding
business. They do
NOT sell parts, so we are all stuck in a worse
situation
than before because at least before, I could sneak some
parts
out the back door...NO MORE.
Getrag/Mitsubishi are NOT going to help us,
I have been
fighting this battle for years now, and my sources are
dry.
Help me help us all...we need to move forward!
Sincerely,
Jack
Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 15:49:31 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: ECS connectors -- how do you get them off?
I'm taking my 94 VR4
in to get the Ground Control Eibachs put in tomorrow
morning, so I removed
the rear interior shelf cover assembly, shelf
catcher, and whatnot on both
sides, to make it a little easier for my
mechanic.
Then I got to the
ECS wiring on top of the rear shocks. Hmmm... How does
that come off
there?
I've tugged and pulled and turned and prodded and looked at my
CD-ROM shop
manual, and can't figure out how to get that sucker offa the top
of the
shock. Does it screw on? Plug on? Press fit on?
The shop manual
says to remove:
1. shock absorber upper mounting nut
2. ECS
connector
3. Cap
Doesn't sound right. Seems like I should take the ECS
connector off BEFORE
I remove the shock absorber upper mounting
nut.
Before I stick a screwdriver in there and pry it off or beat on the
ECS
with a hammer, perhaps one of you fine folk can tell me:
How does
the ECS connection on top of the rear shock come off?
Is the front ECS
connection the same?
Do I gotta take off the entire interior rear
trim panel to get at the rear
connector? That looks like a giant
PITA.
Thanks, guys.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/tomorrow I'm gettin'
DOWN!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 20:00:04 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re Clutches
Plan on two to three months.. Took
Rob at least that long. I can dig up
dates if you want me to.
I
never received my 200.00 check as promised, he tried to send me
a
"rebuilt" pressure plate that was under spec, and he also lost
the letter
that I sent mapping out the problems that I had.
I will
never buy another RPS product, nor will I ever encourage anyone
else
to. As time goes by, I have a brand new RPS clutch sitting on my
floor. I
have not decided to install it as of yet...
I would
consider any offers on this clutch for over 300.00 Highest
bidder
anyone? Its brand new and comes with a
sticker.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Francis Morice
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 3:34 AM
To:
Darcy Gunnlaugson
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Darcy,
I have been reading the posts on the clutch debate
over the last few
weeks and have
decided to share my experiences with
RPS. I also bought the TCC back in
June(not part
of the group
purchase) and had it installed. After driving close to
1000 miles on it
I
decided to try a drag type launch and it slipped in 1st and 2nd.
To
it's credit it
never slipped again until a month ago when it started
slipping in 4th,
5th, and 6th,
which led me to believe that the disc
had been worn down. I found this
to be true when
I had the car in
for service a couple weeks ago and they had the tranny
out.
The
service tech said the disc was worn down to the rivets. I
only took
the car to the
track once, with 9 runs.
I spoke with Rob
at RPS and he said he would replace it under warranty,
but he needed
me to
send the disc and the pressure plate before he could send me the
new
disc. I'm a
little upset because now my car is going to sit on a
friend's lift for 2
to 3 weeks
while I wait for the new one to come.
Also Rob is sending my $150 check
for my
troubles, when I thought he was
giving $200, as a fellow MN 3/s member
received.
Needless to say I would
probably not buy another RPS product in the
future. By the
way, I
only put about 5k miles on the car with the new clutch. Mods
so
far: HKS
megaflow, magnacore wires, gutted pre-cats, test pipe
and bleeder valve
set at
14psi.
Later,
Francis
96RT/TT
13.13 @104.87
Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
> >> The failure percentile is VERY
low.
> >
> >Hmm, it really sounded like at least half the 3/S
Turbo Carbon Claw
> clutches that came out of the group purchase were bad,
with a significant
> number of the "replacement" clutches also
being bad. That's a pretty high
> failure percentage in my
book. I'd think something like 5% might be
> acceptable, but 50%+ is
not. There was also mention of RPS making
promises
> to send a
check to help with the costs incurred in having a clutch
> replacement
re-done, and then checks being a different amount or no check
at
>
all.
> >
> >Since I didn't buy one of those clutches, I won't
comment any more than
> that.
>
> Hmmm...a lot of comment
there Matt, for no personal experience with the
> product
.
>
> I'd be real interested in the actual failure rate of these
clutches, as I
am
> a purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed,
so I am not in the
> position to comment, let alone pass on heresy
as to their attributes or
> lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was
impeccable, however, and I would ask
> for those in the group purchase to
comment as Andy recently has, as to
> their satisfaction or not
,with the product, and the customer service.
Only
> in this way are
rumors dispelled or given credence. Brad? Roger? Others?
>
>
Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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End
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