--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #336
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Monday,
November 15 1999 Volume 01 : Number
336
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:13:15 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
One cannot forget that
overheated pressure plates get _very_ weak.
Roach a clutch a couple
times, and the pressure plate will begin to get kinda
soft, and can give the
impression of a bad flywheel, glazed disc..etc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 18:57:43 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
> While opinions are held
by everyone, they can in fact become close to
> affronting if not managed
properly. My experience with Barry
> would indicate that he is an
aggressive driver, not one who does
> not push his car to the limits. His
numerous past postings would
> indicate the same. And, he is not he
only person with mods who
> has indicated that stock clutches are a
reliable choice. Only when
> mods exceed 500hp does it seem that OME (or
for that matter some
> AM) clutches do not hold up. There are also obvious
cases
> where clear abuse is the cause of clutch failure. That
>
Minnesota members seem to go through stock clutches rapidly, may
> be
either a comment on their advanced modifications, or on a
> similar launch
skill that they have learned from one and other.
> It is certainly not for
me to judge which, as similarly it is not
> the place in this group for
any member to judge another.
I have to agree with you here... I
think the stock clutch is excellent for a stock car, or a car with upgrades
within the area of HP where the stock clutch has enough clamping force to hold
the power. It is certainly good enough for daily driving. It does
glaze somewhat easily, which is why I'm planning on getting an ACT in the spring
for my car. The additional 300 pounds in my car also doesn't help it a lot
for launching, although I've seen one 1.7 60' time. I'm not consistent at
launching the car yet, and that's part of the reason why I'm going ACT. If
I could launch perfectly all the time, I'd probably do another stock clutch -
but since I can't I want one that will be more forgiving.
There have been
a couple times where I've raced against my roommate (he has a '91 VR4) where
I've let the adrenaline get the best of me and stayed on the gas with the clutch
slipping. The stock clutch does* come back after a couple hundred miles,
but it is very sub-optimal until it fixes itself (rubs off the glazed
layer).
If you are a great driver and can get consistently good launches
and the stock clutch holds the power level you are at, then you might as well
get another stock clutch. It'll probably be the easiest on your
drivetrain. If the clutch doesn't hold the power, or you aren't a perfect
launcher then an aftermarket might suit your car better.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 21:18:02 EST
From:
Muratokcu@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch Questions
If the splined input shaft of the transmission is worn,
the clutch plate that
is supposed to slide on it will get stuck and create
the problems described.
wear can be in the form of worn splines or a
twisted shaft (remember those
side step launches?)
hope the trannies
are still under warranty.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:33:25 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Questions
> If the splined input shaft of the
transmission is worn, the
> clutch plate that is supposed to slide on it
will get stuck
> and create the problems described.
>
> wear
can be in the form of worn splines or a twisted shaft
> (remember those
side step launches?)
It can also be caused by the throwout bearing
chewing the surface of the shaft which it rides on if a clutch was changed or
tranny swapped and no lubricant applied to the inner ring of the throwout
bearing or shaft. This may be more likely as the friction disc actually
moves very little on the splined shaft to engage/disengage.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 19:13:21 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
Great post Matt;
The <last part> of the post is
likely to reduce a lot of sweating, or give
room for an option, with those
who feel they need a tranny rebuild or
replacement (first part of post) and
will serve to alert the rest of us
(myself included) on lubing the TOB inner
ring (and shaft) instead of
assuming the TOB comes with factory lube,
and that no more lube is
required. Chances are, average dealership mechanics
just install them as is,
with clutch replacements, and do not lube, and the
symptoms described then
(re) appear sooner or
later.
snip
>> If the splined input shaft of the
transmission is worn, the |
>> clutch plate that is supposed to slide
on it will get stuck |----first
part
>> and create the
problems
described.
|
>>
>> wear can be in the form of worn splines or a twisted
shaft
>> (remember those side step
launches?)
V---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----------last part
V
>It can also be caused by the throwout bearing
chewing the surface of the
shaft which it rides on if a clutch was changed or
tranny swapped and no
lubricant applied to the inner ring of the throwout
bearing or shaft. This
may be more likely as the friction disc actually
moves very little on the
splined shaft to
engage/disengage.
snip
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 22:40:28 EST
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Electronic boost Control
Right now I am trying to decide what make of
boost controller to go with.
Apex, Blitz, Greddy, or HKS IV. If
anyone has any input on which unit to
purchase and of a reasonable
distributer, I would welcome the information.
Presently I have a 91 TT
stealth with Alamo down pipe, borla exhaust, K&N
intake and HKS timer.
After the booster I plan to upgrade the wires,
intercooler pipes, then the
turbos. I am thinking of reaching 550 hp range.
So I am looking for a
booster that would be compatible with these upgrades. I
also would like one
that has the least likely hood of allowing me to
overboost and damage the
engine,
thanks for the input Bob
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:31:49 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Questions
>The <last part> of the post is likely
to reduce a lot of sweating, or give
>room for an option, with those who
feel they need a tranny rebuild or
>replacement (first part of post) and
will serve to alert the rest of us
>(myself included) on lubing the TOB
inner ring (and shaft) instead of
>assuming the TOB comes with
factory lube, and that no more lube is
>required. Chances are, average
dealership mechanics just install them as is,
>with clutch replacements,
and do not lube, and the symptoms described then
>(re) appear sooner or
later.
Yeah, the bearing comes greased on the inside (the sealed part),
but no lube on the outer surfaces (the surface that interfaces with the tranny
shaft) so the inner metal ring and shaft should be lubed with lithium
grease. If that shaft is worn, you might be able to polish it and replace
the TO bearing and be okay. The same symptom appears on DSM trannies on
occasion, particularly with aftermarket throwout bearings which don't have a
plastic inner sleeve to reduce friction. I'm not sure if the OEM parts for
3/S have the inner plastic ring or not. Regardless it should be lubed
before installation.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:38:19 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Electronic boost Control
>Right now I am trying to decide what
make of boost controller to go with.
>Apex, Blitz, Greddy, or HKS
IV. If anyone has any input on which unit to
>purchase and of
a reasonable distributer, I would welcome the information.
>Presently I
have a 91 TT stealth with Alamo down pipe, borla exhaust, K&N
>intake
and HKS timer. After the booster I plan to upgrade the wires,
>intercooler pipes, then the turbos. I am thinking of reaching 550 hp
range.
>So I am looking for a booster that would be compatible with these
upgrades. I
>also would like one that has the least likely hood of
allowing me to
>overboost and damage the engine, thanks for the
input Bob
You might want to consider changing the order
of your upgrades. Doing the boost controller at this point will give the
most benefit by far. After that, you might want to do the turbo upgrade if
you feel the stock turbos are insufficient. Intercoolers and pipes don't
seem to make that much difference until you are flowing tons of air, and if you
do the turbo upgrade you will probably need fuel control (injectors, controller
and maybe a pump) more than bigger intercoolers. When you get closer to
making a decision, it might be helpful to monitor your intake air temperatures
in the Y-pipe to get a better feel for whether larger intercoolers would help or
not.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:38:22 -0600
From: Rah <
rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Warranty
Items
Hello all,
I picked my stealth up not too
long ago, it's a 93 R/T TT with
86,000 miles now. The original owner
had purchased the 7 year/100,000
mile bumper-to-bumper everything is covered
warranty thing which will
expire in February.
I
thought of a few things and they are gonna have it in to fix those
things in
the coming weeks, I was wondering if there are any particular
things I should
check and have replaced while I can. Things I may not
have otherwise
noticed. So far they're replacing the struts, sunroof
hinges, power
antenna, and seatbelts.
Thanks in advance,
- --Rich
Halvorsen
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:40:15 -0600
From: Rah <
rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Snow
Tires/Rims
Hello all,
Another question, I have to
drive this stealth(93, R/T TT) through
the winter, and I've already picked up
some 17" snow tires, however I am
weary of puttin them on the chrome
stock rims and lettin them suffer the
winter.
How
can I get some cheap 17" rims or does anyone have like other
stock rims
that aren't chrome they need to unload? Any ideas in
general
appreciated,
thanks,
- --Rich Halvorsen
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:05:57 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF2F9C.72BA9F60
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I have just installed my new engine, Forged Pistons,
15'Gs and 550cc =
injectors.
My injectors have a different Ohm requirement
so I have some resistors =
hooked into the injectors, I am not sure if
this is working and my car =
is running VERY rich.
Anyone have some ideas,
I am putting the standard injectors back in =
tomorrow and running standard
boost to run engine in.
Any help would be great, I have to get the thing
working by saturdays =
flying quater, 180kph+ easy??
Henry
-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF2F9C.72BA9F60
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3616.1301"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have
just installed my new engine, =
Forged=20
Pistons, 15'Gs and 550cc
injectors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>My injectors have a different Ohm =
requirement so=20
I have
some resistors hooked into the injectors, I am not sure if =
this
is=20
working and my car is running VERY
rich.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Anyone have some ideas, I am putting =
the=20
standard
injectors back in tomorrow and running standard boost to run
=
engine=20
in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any help would be great, I have to =
get the
thing=20
working by saturdays flying quater, 180kph+
easy??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Henry</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF2F9C.72BA9F60--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 22:27:51 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Questions
Interesting Darcy and all.
I checked
with 2 of my mechanics - one independent and the other works at NW
Mitsubishi
and both of them told me that it is quite unlikely that it has to
do with the
transmission. Both of them are aware I installed a transmission
in my car not
long ago- about slightly less than a year ago...and are
pretty sure
that it is just a sign of a failing clutch.
Just to add one point though,
that feeling notchy feeling when u gradually
release the clutch pedal is
pretty intermittent. It happens a lot more when
I am caught in traffic vs.
when I am driving long distance.
Reading on...
Julian Ng
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darcy Gunnlaugson <
wce@telus.net>
To: 3000gtvr4 <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>;
sjc0u812@juno.com<
sjc0u812@juno.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, November 12, 1999 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
>Julian, Scott ,et al;
>
>The notchiness
thus far described sounds like a clutch problem and not a
>tranny problem.
The latter is the boogie man of the 3S world and we are
>always listening
for his footsteps>> almost to the degree of hysteria.
I
>should think the tranny symptoms would not be described as notchy
clutch
>pedal movement..or if they were so described, it would also be
readily
>evident in the feel of the shift lever while you were holding it.
Thus far
>the "feel" seems to be described in the pedal and not
the shifter. So,
>possibly (and this is a guess) there is a "half
wit" problem with some
>installers, and things are not assembled or
aligned quite right: TOB's not
>quite put in right (is there (?) a back
and front, etc). It may be a simple
>prob that is easily replicated to the
side of error by those not totally
>familiar with the setup. Again a
guess...but I would suspect that this does
>not occur where someone has
done a dozen of these installations
>successfully. Often times our cars
are simply on the job training, and we
>are charged for it (Geez, a
3S!! I've never worked on one of them
before).
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 00:25:53 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
> I have just installed my new engine, Forged
Pistons, 15'Gs and
> 550cc injectors. My injectors have a different
Ohm requirement
> so I have some resistors hooked into the injectors, I am
not
> sure if this is working and my car is running VERY
rich.
> Anyone have some ideas, I am putting the standard
injectors
> back in tomorrow and running standard boost to run engine
in.
> Any help would be great, I have to get the thing working by
>
saturdays flying quater, 180kph+ easy??
I'm not sure on this, but I
thought the rating on injectors
is actually impedance and not straight
resistance. Be careful
with this, as if you get it wrong you can fry
the injector
drivers in the ECU. If you just dropped the 550's in
there
with no other fuel control (ie: trying to run with stock ECU)
then
I'd expect that it would run rich, especially at WOT as
the ECU doesn't
change the flow based upon sensor data, it
pulls the delivery curves out of a
table. Even at idle and
partial throttle, it takes the ECU a while to
change the
trim values to hit the corect A/F ratio targets.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:45:14 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: Snow
Tires/Rims
When I stopped by the dealer after having new tires put on, my
salesman that
sold me the car noticed the new wheels and asked what I did
with the old
ones. I told him I was trying to sell him and he said that
the dealership
will buy back old rims (they pay $25 a rim, non chrome of
course). So
perhaps your local mitsubishi dealer has a set of used
17" rims that they
could sell you (if the dealers in your area happen to
buy them back)? Else
I'd suggest looking for places that deal in used
tires because they might
have used rims as well for sale. Or you could
just eat the money and buy a
new set of inexpensive rims. I shop at the
Tire Rack
www.tirerack.comand got my
new set of 17" rims for $139 a piece. Their just regular
silver
style rims that are clear coated. In case yer interested in
checking them
out, they're Kosei SC6's.
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:49:57 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Warranty Items
Make sure that a timing belt job was done, very important
:). Also have
them check all the little things, like the power mirrors,
the fog lights
(that they work properly), the window washer ports (where the
water actually
comes out of on the hood and the rear window), all the lights
on the dash
light up, etc.... It's the little things that you'll always
seem to miss,
and it's best to check it (no matter how trivial) so they can
fix it, else
they add up quickly when it's coming out of your pocket.
Also, check the AC
and the heater, a lot of people will buy a car in the
summer, check the AC
to see if it works, but won't check the heater or
defrosters because they
didn't think about it.
good luck
:),
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 06:15:18 EST
From:
Nturavgguy@aol.comSubject: Team3S: car
for sale :(
I have decided to sell my car and move on. Its not a
VR4, sorry. That is
one of the reasons I am selling it. Either
way its in great shape. Rebuilt
Tranny, new clutch, plugs (Bosch P +4)
wires and K&N Filtercharger. Eibach
lowering springs (1.5"
rear and 1.3" front) Paint is really nice. Interior
is in
great shape (2 stains on a seat) small ones though. Just put in a
Clarion Pro Audio Cd player 1 month ago. Have all the paperwork on
parts
etc. Would like to get $9500. Oh yeah its a 93
3000GT. Red on grey. Car
is in Merrimack NH, south of Manchester
and North of Nashua. 15 minutes from
Mass border.
Jim
(603) 429-4182
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:24:21 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
oil cooled pistons?
Hi
Are our pistons oil cooled? (i.e. oil
sprayed directly under the pistons for
cooling purpose)
/Mikael
Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 07:41:53 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
oil cooled pistons?
Yes. The stock rods have a squirter hole and
hole in the rod bearing, so oil
squirts out once per revolution onto the
underside of the stock piston.
Jack T.
Mikael Åkesson
wrote:
> Are our pistons oil cooled? (oil sprayed under pistons
for
> cooling).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 09:09:30 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
OK, so I feel compelled
to explain myself.
My original thought was to use an ACT. It was a
good thought, just that I
should have had it about 6 months earlier.
After calling every 3S and DSM
shop I could find a number too, I gave
up. No one had the ACT in stock, and
delivery was looking like at least
a month. So, hence stock clutch.
Since I put the stock clutch in
(which holds very nice, hasn't had a lot of
beating though), I have decided
that I will probably not change it to an
ACT. Why? Simple.
I would rather change the clutch every 45,000 miles
than shock the driveline
like hell.
Anyway, my $.02
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron [
SMTP:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Friday, November 12, 1999 11:07 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
...snip
John has a 95
R/T TT and after one trip to the track and a lot of
G-tech
runs, his
stock clutch started slipping. He has since replaced it
with
another stock clutch. (Don't ask why)
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at
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Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:19:58 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: A
couple of questions.
Does anybody have a picture of the various downpipes
available? I'm
thinking of trying to have one put on my NA, with a connector
pipe where
the turbo would be. Also, will an ATR Hi-flow cat bold directly
onto a
stock exhaust system?
Thanks,
Matt
3/Si #311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 09:31:50 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A couple of questions.
Matt...
No pictures here,
however ATR has a product catalog with pictures of their
complete exhaust
assembly.
Yes, strangely enough, the ATR high flow cat/test pipe reduces
to fit the
stock exhaust. I say strange as I would "assume" that
anyone replacing their
DP and cat would already have a 3" catback
exhaust. I had to have a larger
pipe and flange welded on mine.
Now, a
note of caution...the NA engines need a certain amount of
backpressure to
achieve hp and torque. While it's a tradeoff with the TTs
(some low end
torque loss in exchange for some extra hp), the NAs will
likely suffer in
both areas if you open the exhaust up to 3". Talk to a
tuner in your
area, or get more opinions from NA owners on the list.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker [
mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Monday,
November 15, 1999 9:20 AM
To:
mattrt@hotmail.comCc: 3000GT
Mailing
Subject: Team3S: A couple of questions.
Does anybody have
a picture of the various downpipes available? I'm
thinking of trying to have
one put on my NA, with a connector pipe where
the turbo would be. Also, will
an ATR Hi-flow cat bold directly onto a
stock exhaust system?
Thanks,
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:11:54 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electronic boost Control
> Right now I am trying to decide
what make of boost controller to go with.
> Apex, Blitz, Greddy, or HKS
IV. If anyone has any input on which unit to
> purchase and of
a reasonable distributer, I would welcome the information.
This question
seems to be asked a lot lately. Here is my regular answer.
All
electronic controllers are reported to hold boost very well. The
new Apexi
AVC-R currently has more features than any competitor
though:
1) You can specify different boost levels for different
(selectable) RPM bands.
2) The unit uses gear based learning.
3) It uses a
relative pressure sensor, you don't have to reset settings for
atmospheric or
elevation changes.
4) Has extensive display modes including graphs and
digital readouts of up to 4
parameters.
The one drawback is the
display is large and you have to find a place to mount
it. I used the
supplied bracket and slipped it inbetween the AC outlet. It
holds it
snug right in front of the stock boost gauge.
I bought mine from Mike
Mahaffey at
http://www.alteredatmosphere.com.
You can
also try Indra at
http://www.apexvr4.com/ if you're on the West
Coast.
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a
3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:27:38 +1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
Yes sorry that is what I meant, the impedance is
not right, I have been onto
RC to try and get the right inectors.
I am
running a HKS F-CON, it is running on 0 but still very rich, I am sure
the
injectors are not compatable or the auto electrician wired them to
the
resistors wrong..
Do you think I need a new computer to handle the new
injectors?
Henry
Opps I meant 180MPH+ that possible?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 'B Collett'
<
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>;
team3s
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, 15 November 1999 19:25
Subject: RE: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
>> I have just installed my new engine, Forged
Pistons, 15'Gs and
>> 550cc injectors. My injectors have a
different Ohm requirement
>> so I have some resistors hooked into the
injectors, I am not
>> sure if this is working and my car is
running VERY rich.
>> Anyone have some ideas, I am putting the standard
injectors
>> back in tomorrow and running standard boost to run engine
in.
>> Any help would be great, I have to get the thing working
by
>> saturdays flying quater, 180kph+ easy??
>
>I'm not
sure on this, but I thought the rating on injectors
>is actually impedance
and not straight resistance. Be careful
>with this, as if you get it
wrong you can fry the injector
>drivers in the ECU. If you just
dropped the 550's in there
>with no other fuel control (ie: trying to run
with stock ECU)
>then I'd expect that it would run rich, especially at WOT
as
>the ECU doesn't change the flow based upon sensor data,
it
>pulls the delivery curves out of a table. Even at idle
and
>partial throttle, it takes the ECU a while to change the
>trim
values to hit the corect A/F ratio targets.
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:32:52 -0500
From: "wagner@sprynet.com" <
wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Getrag overhaul kits????
Hey everyone:
A guy on the 3SI website
just posted the
following:
=========================================================================
A
91 3000 GT vr4 awd turbo 5 spd master transmission Overhaul Kit
(gaskets,
bearings, seals ) is $353.55. A transfer case master Overhaul
Kit (gaskets,
bearings, seals )is $84.00. Other parts are available from
the dealer
only.
We accept all major credit cards. Please
call
800-776-1191
(503-284-768) or fax 503-280-1655 to
order.
=========================================================================
I
noticed that the kit mentioned above doesn't identify any synchros. Is
anyone
familiar with these guys?
Thanks,
Bill Wagner
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:19:15 -0600
From: "John P. Kaiser" <
jkaiser@emed.com>
Subject: Team3S: Team
3S: Exhaust Question.
Hello,
I have a 99 3000GT ( Base Model )
and I am in the market for some
performance improving
exhaust. What
is a good exhaust system to go with, without increasing the
volume of
exhaust
to much? I'm looking for the most quiet, yet horsepower
increasing system.
I already have installed a K&N filter.
Any
ideas?
Thanks,
John Kaiser
99 3000 GT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:51:21 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
Short Admin Warning : Please do not use
HTML (Rich-Text) in your post. Onyl
use normal Text. Thanks !
> I
have just installed my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs and
550cc
injectors.
Good decision !
> My injectors have a
different Ohm requirement so I have some resistors
hooked into the injectors,
I am
> not sure if this is working and my car is running VERY
rich.
The question from Matt is right : What fuel control are you using
?
The two stock fuel maps are too small and cannot adapt for the
bigger
injectors. Even 440cc are too large and the figures are out of the
map.
What injectors have you choosen ? Our system uses a resistor pack
for the
injectors and if the current to drive them is different, then also
the
driving parts must be changed. As Matt stated correctly, the
driver
transistors are in danger !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:56:53 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Electronic boost Control
> You might want to consider changing
the order of your upgrades.
I agree #1 !
> Doing the
boost controller at this point will give the most benefit by
far.
I
agree #2 !
> After that, you might want to do the turbo upgrade if you
feel the stock
> turbos are insufficient.
You mentioned it later
but even with the stock turbos, the stock fuel system
is at its end and Stage
2/3 consists of the bigger injectors, pump and fuel
control. Therefore,
before you put in the larger turbos, fuel must be
delivered. Then choose the
right turbos for your system :)
> a decision, it might be helpful to
monitor your intake air temperatures
> in the Y-pipe to get a better feel
for whether larger intercoolers would
> help or not.
I'd even go
further : Buy a TMO Datalogger ... and you know what you do
:-)
Unfortunately, Todd Day, the maker of the Datalogger is not answering
emails
:((
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:25:26 -0800
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Getrag overhaul kits????
Bill et al:
I called these folks
because I noted the local (PDX)
telephone number. This is what I
got:
There are *no* overhaul kits for the Getrags. They
are
willing to do work on these tranny's and x-fer
cases on a "parts &
labor" basis only. No firm
pricing as they don't have any
experience history
and each repair would consist of replacing
worn/broken
parts only - no "blood, guts & feathers"
end-to-end
repairs.
I also (for the hell of it) asked him about
getting
synchros. He told me that he lists synchros for
the F5M33
5-speed transmission, but not the W5MG1
5-speed transmission, which sounds
to me like the
difference between the NA and the TT tranny's.
Somebody let
me know if I'm right or wrong on this.
When something sounds too good to
be true, ......
Rich
-
-------------------------------------------------
"
wagner@sprynet.com" wrote:
>
> Hey everyone:
>
> A guy on the 3SI website just posted the
following:
>
>
=========================================================================
>
> A 91 3000 GT vr4 awd turbo 5 spd master transmission Overhaul
Kit
> (gaskets, bearings, seals ) is $353.55. A transfer case master
Overhaul
> Kit (gaskets, bearings, seals )is $84.00. Other parts are
available from
> the dealer only.
>
>
We accept all major credit cards. Please call
>
800-776-1191
>
(503-284-768) or fax 503-280-1655 to order.
>
>
=========================================================================
>
> I noticed that the kit mentioned above doesn't identify any synchros.
Is
> anyone familiar with these guys?
- --
"If you dig it, do
it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce
(1943-1973)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 20:27:15 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
> I am running a HKS F-CON, it is running on 0
but still very rich, I am sure
> the injectors are not compatable or the
auto electrician wired them to the
> resistors wrong..
Well, the
F-CON is not the first choice for our cars. It may work but not
perfect. But
you'll find out when you have the correct injectors.
> Do you think I
need a new computer to handle the new injectors?
Yes, get rid of the
F-CON and leave the ECU where it is.
> Opps I meant 180MPH+ that
possible?
Yes, but you must run on about 1.3 bars of boost and you need
something to cool
down the excessive discharge temperature. I runned 174mph
(the speedo showed
mroe than 300km/h) with boost at about 1.25 bars (you know
how I killed the
engine) More is very hard to get as it needs a lot more
tourque to maintain the
speed.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:33:38 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
My Getrag has given up after only 1 year
and 5,000 miles: It drives fine
but it's leaking, and the Mitsu dealer will
replace it under factory
warranty. It was replaced last year under my
extended warranty, but because
the dealer put in a new Mitsu tranny, it came
with a 12-month factory
warranty.
For whoever is keeping track of
Getrag failures:
94 VR4
68,900 miles total -- 5,000 since transmission
replacement 12 months ago.
Engine: stock (K&N only)
Usage: I drive it
briskly, but no dragstrip launches, no hard shifts.
A little road racing now
and then, but almost always in 3rd and 4th gear.
Symptoms: leaking
fluid
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/tranny killer
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:36:54 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Redline boost controller--help!
I just got my Redline manual
boost controller.
The instructions are somewhat...cryptic.
Has anyone else
installed one on a VR4?
Got any advice or instructions?
Rich/old
poop/95 VR4/Heavy breathing soon, I hope.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:56:38 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
Thats weird, our Getrag started
leaking really bad as well.
Its been replaced.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, November 15, 1999 12:34 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
My Getrag has given up after only 1
year and 5,000 miles: It drives fine
but it's leaking, and the Mitsu dealer
will replace it under factory
warranty. It was replaced last year under my
extended warranty, but because
the dealer put in a new Mitsu tranny, it came
with a 12-month factory
warranty.
For whoever is keeping track of
Getrag failures:
94 VR4
68,900 miles total -- 5,000 since transmission
replacement 12 months ago.
Engine: stock (K&N only)
Usage: I drive it
briskly, but no dragstrip launches, no hard shifts.
A little road racing now
and then, but almost always in 3rd and 4th gear.
Symptoms: leaking
fluid
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/tranny killer
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:06:20 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
My Getrag was leaking too in
Spring. It turned out to be the "freeze-plug" like
tranny
plug that faces the front passenger-side wheel, it was gone.
Replaced
the $23 plug and used a little silicon goo and that solved the
problem. Check
this plug first when your Getrag starts
leaking...
'91 VR4, 106K, 50K on 2nd tranny
"Mohler,
Jeff" wrote:
>
> Thats weird, our Getrag started leaking
really bad as well.
>
> Its been replaced.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:34 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
>
> My Getrag has given up
after only 1 year and 5,000 miles: It drives fine
> but it's leaking, and
the Mitsu dealer will replace it under factory
> warranty. It was replaced
last year under my extended warranty, but because
> the dealer put in a
new Mitsu tranny, it came with a 12-month factory
> warranty.
>
> For whoever is keeping track of Getrag failures:
>
> 94
VR4
> 68,900 miles total -- 5,000 since transmission replacement 12 months
ago.
> Engine: stock (K&N only)
> Usage: I drive it briskly, but
no dragstrip launches, no hard shifts.
> A little road racing now and
then, but almost always in 3rd and 4th gear.
> Symptoms: leaking
fluid
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts
has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:22:35 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Info on new Porsche brakes (ceramic)
During the last weeks I followed
some information about the new ceramic
brakes that Porsche will offer as an
upgrade to their cars in mid next year.
I was now led to the article on their
page that was in the information I was
sent from Porsche
Switzerland.
http://www.us.porsche.com/english/news/pressreleases/990924.htmUnfortunately,
it was not more than the same information then the article
from Porsche but
if you want to see a pic I have scanned one in (not a good
pic) and it can be
found under
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/porsche_ceramic_brake.jpgHm,
nobody knows how much they'll cost but they are already on my whishlist
for
christmas ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:34:32 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
*heh*
Our was nice enough to
leak completely around the housing gasket itself.
That smurf blue
redline oil shows leaks nicely.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Monday, November 15, 1999 1:06 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc: 'Merritt';
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
My Getrag was leaking too in
Spring. It turned out to be the "freeze-plug" like
tranny
plug that faces the front passenger-side wheel, it was gone.
Replaced
the $23 plug and used a little silicon goo and that solved the
problem. Check
this plug first when your Getrag starts
leaking...
'91 VR4, 106K, 50K on 2nd tranny
"Mohler,
Jeff" wrote:
>
> Thats weird, our Getrag started leaking
really bad as well.
>
> Its been replaced.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:34 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
>
> My Getrag has given up
after only 1 year and 5,000 miles: It drives fine
> but it's leaking, and
the Mitsu dealer will replace it under factory
> warranty. It was replaced
last year under my extended warranty, but because
> the dealer put in a
new Mitsu tranny, it came with a 12-month factory
> warranty.
>
> For whoever is keeping track of Getrag failures:
>
> 94
VR4
> 68,900 miles total -- 5,000 since transmission replacement 12 months
ago.
> Engine: stock (K&N only)
> Usage: I drive it briskly, but
no dragstrip launches, no hard shifts.
> A little road racing now and
then, but almost always in 3rd and 4th gear.
> Symptoms: leaking
fluid
- --
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts
has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:05:55 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Scratch one more Getrag
Rich;
So where is it leaking??
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:56:08 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
>So where is it leaking??
Dunno. The Mitsu dealer put tracer in it, told me to drive around for a
few
days, and bring it back. We put it up today, and the tracer is
everywhere,
but the mechanic can't find the source, even with his UV light.
He suspects
its the rear seal, but can't tell for sure.
Rich/old
poop/94VR4/tranny killer
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:51:25 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Electronic boost Control
Don't forget the injectors, pump and
some sort of fuel computer (Arc-2, VPC,
G-force) Thats another $2000
and
necessary to achieve your goal.
Sam 95 VR4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: BHurvitz@aol.com <
BHurvitz@aol.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 14, 1999 7:42 PM
Subject: Team3S: Electronic boost
Control
>Right now I am trying to decide what make of boost
controller to go with.
>Apex, Blitz, Greddy, or HKS IV. If
anyone has any input on which unit to
>purchase and of a reasonable
distributer, I would welcome the information.
>Presently I have a 91 TT
stealth with Alamo down pipe, borla exhaust, K&N
>intake and HKS
timer. After the booster I plan to upgrade the wires,
>intercooler pipes,
then the turbos. I am thinking of reaching 550 hp range.
>So I am looking
for a booster that would be compatible with these upgrades.
I
>also
would like one that has the least likely hood of allowing me to
>overboost
and damage the engine,
>thanks for the input
Bob
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #336
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at
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