--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #334
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest       Saturday, November 13 1999       Volume 01 : Number 334




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 07:42:07 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take -Reply

** High Priority **

I've had the Centerforce clutch on both of my Stealths, and I have to
say I'm completely satisified...Street drivability is awesome, little
chatter and near stock pedal pressure. I've done some heavy launches,
and haven't found the clutch to slip at all. I guess the only thing I
don't like is that on my current car, it seems like the clutch is not
fully disengaging...It makes it difficult to go from neutral to first
or reverse. I doubt that has anything to do with the clutch itself,
and I plan on getting it adjusted soon...

Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
Centerforce
K/N FIPK
Greddy exhaust (soon to be Borla)
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:36:54 -0600
From: sjc0u812@juno.com
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Questions

Gentlemen:

I continue to have oddities with my stock clutch.  This includes pedal
pressure and total disengagement.   To reiterate, I'm on my third
pressure plate and throw out bearing.  My local dealer, whom I have a
tremendous relationship with, changed them under warrantee.  Many in the
group have felt that this is a pressure problem, the system needs to be
bleed, etc.   This has been done but to no avail.  I also feel what I
would call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal.  The dealer
has indicated that perhaps the output shaft is worn and the car may need
a new tranny someday.  Perhaps.  I was wondering about the idea of
changing the PP and TOB to an aftermarket brand.  The stock clutch seems
to hold just fine.  And I don't like the idea of not being smooth whence
I drive the car.  The only problem I have encountered is the inconsistent
feel of the clutch, which at times makes the car act like I've never
driven a clutch before (Barry, be nice).  The tranny also feels fine, for
the most part not changing in feel since I purchased the car 2 1/2 years
ago.  The changing of the fluid to GM SynchroMesh did help reduce the
notchy-ness some, but for the most part, it feels fine.  Besides that,
the only other problem I've encountered has been the rear end getting
loose since I installed the BC (the tires are about halfway through there
life at most).   Any feed back would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott
'92 VR4
116K
HKS Dual Mega Flow
APEXi AVC-R
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:46:02 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take -Reply

> I've had the Centerforce clutch on both of my Stealths, and I have to
> say I'm completely satisified...Street drivability is awesome, little
> chatter and near stock pedal pressure. I've done some heavy launches,
> and haven't found the clutch to slip at all. I guess the only thing I
> don't like is that on my current car, it seems like the clutch is not
> fully disengaging...It makes it difficult to go from neutral to first
> or reverse. I doubt that has anything to do with the clutch itself,
> and I plan on getting it adjusted soon...

Yeah, my DSM Centerforce also disengaged poorly.  There's an adjustment rod on the pedal assembly, but even with it all the way adjusted it still wasn't great.  Their quality seems to be a little on the "variable" side, where I haven't heard any complaints at all on the ACT.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 12:23:49 -0500
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: A different kind of performance option

My apologies if this is not relevant enough...

Recently someone brought up replacing the side mirrors on the stealth list
w/a CCD. Might be an interesting idea if those stock mirrors really do drag
as bad as some people have said on the "lists". I guess what i'm wondering
is, does anybody know how much those mirrors really add?

The point was also made that each replacement mirror costs ~$125 each and a
complete closed circuit camera system was about $500. I think we could do
even better than that - $50 wires, 2 $75 pinhole cameras, $100 6" active
matrix screen from eio.com = $300 + labor. Of course, this is w/out any
nicely fabricated holder for the camera...

Benefits:
- - neat :)
- - less drag
- - less chance to get knocked off (problem in my DC area)
- - possibly expanded/better vision (maybe kill our blind spot?)
- - possibly better placement to view sides so as to keep eyes more centered
on the road
- - possibly better & or complete night vision (most CCDs can already see
infrared, and an infrared light on each side is cheap)

Gavin
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 11:32:38 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A different kind of performance option

>
>Recently someone brought up replacing the side mirrors on the stealth list
>w/a CCD.


The new Cadillac DeVille has an infrared night vision camera mounted up
front, and projects the image onto a heads-up screen at the bottom of the
windshield. Seems like the same technology would work for side mirrors. If
you pointed the camera backward, of course.

Rich/old poop
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 13:46:11 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take

One thing I'd like to point out here.  The reason Matt and I support ACT so
much is not just the fact that we "heard" good things about them.  We both
have our noses in the DSM community, so we know what has worked well for
them.  And as much as you may think that the DSM is a different car, it has
so many things in common with the 3/S, that it is scary.

If you truly want to learn more about the 3/S and you've read every website
out there, start checking out the DSM community.  They are way ahead of us
in learning what makes there cars fast.  The two easiest mod decsions I had
to make were the ACT clutch and the 1G DSM BOV.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take -Reply
>Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:46:02 -0600
>Yeah, my DSM Centerforce also disengaged poorly.  There's an adjustment rod
>on the pedal assembly, but even with it all the way adjusted it still
>wasn't great.  Their quality seems to be a little on the "variable" side,
>where I haven't heard any complaints at all on the ACT.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:06:53 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam air dams

>and your handling will
>be actually worse due to instability).


>For the uninformed, please describe the instability
>you mentioned.
>Regards,
>ptg

I meant the instability that comes from having a bad alignment job.  It's
like trying to do high-speed driving (speeds over 100 mph) with unbalanced
wheels, your car will feel very unstable as if it can't make up it's mind as
to which way is straight.  I had this problem in my last car when my wheels
went out of alignment (it was a '94 Eclipse GS).  I was driving down to a
friends 2 hours south of me on the high-way, attempting to do about 100, but
the car just wouldn't drive stable, it kept wobbling back and forth and
required a lot of attention at the wheel to keep evening it out.  I made the
same trip a few months later after having an alignment done, was doing about
120 with no problems :).

I've also experienced it a bit in my 3000 when I was forced to drive on the
doughnut for like 6 days while waiting for my new tires to arrive.  This
totally screwed up my alignment.  When I put the new tires on, I was driving
with the steering wheel at about a 30 degree angle just to go straight, and
the car would misc. pull to the side when going above like 50 mph.  Not a
very fun condition to drive with :).


Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:08:10 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: oops,

Sorry about that all, I didn't realize that the question I was responding to
was a private send, not a list send.  my dumb :(.


Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 15:55:47 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Questions

>This has been done but to no avail.  I also feel what I
>would call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal.  The dealer
>has indicated that perhaps the output shaft is worn and the car may need
>a new tranny someday.

U must be kidding me...NOOO! Please tell me this is not true....I have this
same problem right now with my stock clutch and attributed it to a clutch
going bad and thus my current questions on which clutch to get next. Funny
thing is that I just got a rebuilt tranny (paid for by my insurance
company - no fraud here - ) about a year ago. It cannot be that. This is
beginning to worry me. Any thoughts people?

I suudenly feel giddy :) I don't have the aftermarket warranty anymore...if
this true I am screwed man...I will have to pay it out myself.

Julian Ng
gtovr4@postalzone.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: sjc0u812@juno.com <sjc0u812@juno.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, November 12, 1999 7:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Questions


>Gentlemen:
>
>I continue to have oddities with my stock clutch.  This includes pedal
>pressure and total disengagement.   To reiterate, I'm on my third
>pressure plate and throw out bearing.  My local dealer, whom I have a
>tremendous relationship with, changed them under warrantee.  Many in the
>group have felt that this is a pressure problem, the system needs to be
>bleed, etc.   This has been done but to no avail.  I also feel what I
>would call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal.  The dealer
>has indicated that perhaps the output shaft is worn and the car may need
>a new tranny someday.  Perhaps.  I was wondering about the idea of
>changing the PP and TOB to an aftermarket brand.  The stock clutch seems
>to hold just fine.  And I don't like the idea of not being smooth whence
>I drive the car.  The only problem I have encountered is the inconsistent
>feel of the clutch, which at times makes the car act like I've never
>driven a clutch before (Barry, be nice).  The tranny also feels fine, for
>the most part not changing in feel since I purchased the car 2 1/2 years
>ago.  The changing of the fluid to GM SynchroMesh did help reduce the
>notchy-ness some, but for the most part, it feels fine.  Besides that,
>the only other problem I've encountered has been the rear end getting
>loose since I installed the BC (the tires are about halfway through there
>life at most).   Any feed back would be most appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scott
>'92 VR4
>116K
>HKS Dual Mega Flow
>APEXi AVC-R
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:14:55 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks everybody for the input about clutches...

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BF2D29.0F166C20
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Very helpful feedback from all of you about the clutch issue.

Based on everyone's opinion, the ACT and Centerforce clutch seems to be =
good for the 3/S cars. However, I have always believed that our stock =
clutch is equally strong and can withstand quite a few high rpm dumps at =
the drag strip (of course letting it cool down a little after each run). =
My concern is that if we had upgraded turbos, let say the most talked =
about 15g, will the stock clutch actually hold the high rpm dump? I =
would not mind if the stock clutch lasted only a summer; my fear is that =
it might blow after 4 hard launches on a summer day becos of the extreme =
pressure from the bigger turbos.

I am also worried about my current clutch as I am experiencing the same =
problem as Scott. " I also feel what I would call a notch halfway =
through the travel of the pedal." I hope I don't need a new transmission =
anytime soon..that always scares the heck out of me. But I just had a =
rebuilt tranny put in and from info I have read in the past, the second =
gens have a stronger transmission than those of the first gens. The =
first gens biggest problem was the transmission and the active aero =
which continually gives problems. The active aero problem is familiar to =
me as I had a first gen before but never really encountered any problems =
with my transmission. Is this just babble with no truth in it?

Nevertheless, thanks everyone for the information...I appreciate the =
help!! :)

Hmm.. I will have to call my mechanic now since he is still open...
=20
Julian Ng
94 GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BF2D29.0F166C20
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Very helpful =
feedback from=20
all of you about the clutch issue.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Based on everyone's opinion, =
the ACT and=20
Centerforce clutch seems to be good for the 3/S cars. However, I have =
always=20
believed that our stock clutch is equally strong and can withstand quite =
a few=20
high rpm dumps at the drag strip (of course letting it cool down a =
little after=20
each run). My concern is that if we had upgraded turbos, let say the =
most talked=20
about 15g, will the stock clutch actually hold the high rpm dump? I =
would not=20
mind if the stock clutch lasted only a summer; my fear is that it might =
blow=20
after 4 hard launches on a summer day becos of the extreme pressure from =
the=20
bigger turbos.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>I am also worried about my =
current clutch=20
as I am experiencing the same problem as Scott. &quot; I also feel what =
I would=20
call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal.&quot; I hope I =
don't need=20
a new transmission anytime soon..that always scares the heck out of me. =
But I=20
just had a rebuilt tranny put in and from info I have read in the past, =
the=20
second gens have a stronger transmission than those of the first gens. =
The first=20
gens biggest problem was the transmission and the active aero which =
continually=20
gives problems. The active aero problem is familiar to me as I had a =
first gen=20
before but never really encountered any problems with my transmission. =
Is this=20
just babble with no truth in it?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Nevertheless, =
thanks=20
everyone for the information...I appreciate the help!! :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Hmm.. I will have to call my =
mechanic now=20
since he is still open...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Julian =
Ng</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>94 GTO<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:gtovr4@postalzone.com">gtovr4@postalzone.com</A><BR></FONT=
></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BF2D29.0F166C20--

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:17:46 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks everybody for the input about clutches...

I think the stock clutch/plate is good enough to hold 15gs, BUT the real
question is can the stock clutch hold the force of high RPM dumps.

Yes, if done right.

They will not suffer much slipping caused by bad dumps as the turbos come alive.
Thats just life.

I have an RPS Turbo Clutch in my MK3 supra..and love it.

I had an ACT in our 92 TT Stealth, loved it.

MANY Supra owners have had multiple CF clutches, N/A and Turbo owners...all
sucked.

- -----Original Message-----
From: 3000gtvr4 [mailto:gtovr4@postalzone.com]
Sent: Friday, November 12, 1999 4:15 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Thanks everybody for the input about clutches...


Very helpful feedback from all of you about the clutch issue.

Based on everyone's opinion, the ACT and Centerforce clutch seems to be good for
the 3/S cars. However, I have always believed that our stock clutch is equally
strong and can withstand quite a few high rpm dumps at the drag strip (of course
letting it cool down a little after each run). My concern is that if we had
upgraded turbos, let say the most talked about 15g, will the stock clutch
actually hold the high rpm dump? I would not mind if the stock clutch lasted
only a summer; my fear is that it might blow after 4 hard launches on a summer
day becos of the extreme pressure from the bigger turbos.

I am also worried about my current clutch as I am experiencing the same problem
as Scott. " I also feel what I would call a notch halfway through the travel of
the pedal." I hope I don't need a new transmission anytime soon..that always
scares the heck out of me. But I just had a rebuilt tranny put in and from info
I have read in the past, the second gens have a stronger transmission than those
of the first gens. The first gens biggest problem was the transmission and the
active aero which continually gives problems. The active aero problem is
familiar to me as I had a first gen before but never really encountered any
problems with my transmission. Is this just babble with no truth in it?

Nevertheless, thanks everyone for the information...I appreciate the help!! :)

Hmm.. I will have to call my mechanic now since he is still open...

Julian Ng
94 GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com <mailto:gtovr4@postalzone.com>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:47:11 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Questions

Julian, Scott ,et al;

The notchiness thus far described sounds like a clutch problem and not a
tranny problem. The latter is the boogie man of the 3S world and we are
always listening for his footsteps>> almost to the degree of hysteria.   I
should think the  tranny symptoms would not be described as notchy clutch
pedal movement..or if they were so described, it would also be readily
evident in the feel of the shift lever while you were holding it. Thus far
the "feel" seems to be described in the pedal and not the shifter. So,
possibly (and this is a guess) there is a "half wit" problem with some
installers, and things are not assembled or aligned quite right: TOB's not
quite put in right (is there (?) a back and front, etc). It may be a simple
prob that is easily replicated to the side of error by those not totally
familiar with the setup. Again a guess...but I would suspect that this does
not occur where someone has done a dozen of these installations
successfully. Often times our cars are simply on the job training, and we
are charged for it  (Geez, a 3S!! I've never worked on one of them before).

Best

Darc



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 23:07:20 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock clutch??  Are you kidding me?

If your just going to drive your 3/S around, a stock clutch is fine.  But if
you start drag racing, there is no way a stock clutch will hold up.  Here
are my examples.

I started drag racing about 13 months ago.  After one day at the track and
many G-tech runs my stock clutch (95 R/T TT) went south with about 35,000
miles on it.  I now have an ACT clutch, that holds like glue.

Mark has a 91 R/T TT, he started drag racing this Spring.  After one trip to
the track and many G-tech runs, his stock clutch went south.  He now has the
RPS Carbon claw and it appears to be holding up.

Francis has a 96 R/T TT, after one or two trips to the track his stock
clutch started slipping.  He bought the RPS clutch, and now that is
slipping.  He only had about 25,000 miles on the stock clutch.

John has a 95 R/T TT and after one trip to the track and a lot of G-tech
runs, his stock clutch started slipping.  He has since replaced it with
another stock clutch.  (Don't ask why)

Oskar has a 95 R/T TT.  He is the luckiest one.  He has made 5 trips to the
track on the stock clutch.  It comes and goes.  Sometimes it holds up and
sometimes it slips really bad.  He'll be putting in an aftermarket clutch
this winter. (hopefully an ACT)

You learn a lot at "Minnesota 3/S"

Curt
http://www.mn3s.org


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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 02:36:00 EST
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock clutch??  Are you kidding me?

I've been following this thread for awhile now; In addition to what Curt
stated, I just wanted you all to know about my experience with my '92 VR4
that I purchased in August of 1996:

When I received a new tranny in June of 1998 at 59,957 miles; I asked the
dealership to replace my clutch as well with an OEM/factory clutch; the
mechanic told me that my '92 VR4 with 59,957 miles had the ORIGINAL clutch; I
was surprised to hear that since I had taken at least 12 HARD launches on
this original clutch!!  And who knows how hard the previous owner was on the
clutch.  My car was bone stock at the time.  Mind you, the clutch never gave
me any problems but I figured might as well replace with a new one at the
time of the tranny replacement.

I have now put 24,800 miles on my car since that date on my new tranny &
clutch; with all my mods and at least 30 Hard Launches (several 1.7 - 1.8
60ft. times); the factory/OEM clutch STILL feels strong!!!!  (I hope I didn't
jinx myself).  But the point I'm trying to make is that it all depends on how
you launch and how much abuse you inflict on your car.  

But if my current factory/OEM clutch fails....I may need a stronger clutch
soon??  Maybe ACT?  Centerforce?  or back to OEM???  My experience with
factory/OEM has been excellent!!!!!!  But I'm planning on having over 500
Horsepower fairly soon...so I think ACT or Centerforce would be a wise
decision for me when this current OEM clutch fails.

See you all at the races!!!  (for now...I'm only spectating) - Still NO BOOST
:-(

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4

In a message dated 11/12/99 11:11:01 PM Central Standard Time,
curt_gendron@hotmail.com writes:

<< If your just going to drive your 3/S around, a stock clutch is fine.  But
if
you start drag racing, there is no way a stock clutch will hold up.  Here
are my examples.

I started drag racing about 13 months ago.  After one day at the track and
many G-tech runs my stock clutch (95 R/T TT) went south with about 35,000
miles on it.  I now have an ACT clutch, that holds like glue.

Mark has a 91 R/T TT, he started drag racing this Spring.  After one trip to
the track and many G-tech runs, his stock clutch went south.  He now has the
RPS Carbon claw and it appears to be holding up.

Francis has a 96 R/T TT, after one or two trips to the track his stock
clutch started slipping.  He bought the RPS clutch, and now that is
slipping.  He only had about 25,000 miles on the stock clutch.

John has a 95 R/T TT and after one trip to the track and a lot of G-tech
runs, his stock clutch started slipping.  He has since replaced it with
another stock clutch.  (Don't ask why)

Oskar has a 95 R/T TT.  He is the luckiest one.  He has made 5 trips to the
track on the stock clutch.  It comes and goes.  Sometimes it holds up and
sometimes it slips really bad.  He'll be putting in an aftermarket clutch
this winter. (hopefully an ACT)

You learn a lot at "Minnesota 3/S"

Curt
http://www.mn3s.org >>
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 09:32:03 -0600
From: "Owens, Trent L." <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks\Warning\AVC-R\Invitation :)

I would like to thank everyone for helping me getting this problem taken
care of.  With the help of Jeff and some hints from the rest I was able to
pull the codes off the ECU and figure out that the problem was one wire
going to the #6 cylinder injector.  It was very hard to see considering it
was only out less than 1/8 of an inch.

Here is a warning to all you guys that are thinking about changing your
plugs/wires or doing some sort of repair/upgrade.  Make sure you remove the
bracket on the left side of the intake plenum that holds the 3 electrical
connectors before you pull up on the plenum.  If you only unplug the
connectors you will pull the wires out of the #6 injector.  Its not that
hard to fix....  Its just a hassle trying to figure out what the problem is
and removing everything again! 

As for the new AVC-R, this thing is awesome and well worth the $375 I paid
for it!  I have it set to .95 bar (to be slightly on the safe side)with a
duty cycle of 46.  It will peak around 1 to 1.01 bar and for the most part
it will hold very steady at .95 bar.  This weekend I am going to tinker with
the RPM specific boost control and see if I like that better.

I just bought my (dream) car a couple weeks ago so baring the NGK's, AVC-R,
and RPS Turbo Clutch, of which holds beautifully and I have had zero
problems with, I am bone stock.  However that wont last for long!  I have a
FMIC in the mail and have started to design the system the way I want it.
ETA on the installation will be over the Christmas holidays. (I will keep
you posted and take lots of pics!)  Other mods will be an Eclipse K&N FIPK,
a custom exhaust and later, water injection. (Get ready for the questions
John! ;) )

I have been lurking for almost a year and now that I have my baby....Its
time to get dirty!  I am in the College Station, TX area and have seen a
couple of 3/s's around.  If you are in the area and would like to get
together e-mail me privately.  I know a couple of you drive in from Houston
and race at the speedway.  I would love to come hang out, watch and after
some experience start racing too!  So you guys let me know......  Now, lets
get these babies rolling!

Its good to be aboard!

Sincerely,
Trent Owens
'95 RT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 17:25:42 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks\Warning\AVC-R\Invitation :)

> the problem was one wire
> going to the #6 cylinder injector.  It was very hard to see considering it
> was only out less than 1/8 of an inch.

Good you found it :-)

> FMIC in the mail and have started to design the system the way I want it.
> ETA on the installation will be over the Christmas holidays. (I will keep
> you posted and take lots of pics!)  Other mods will be an Eclipse K&N
FIPK,
> a custom exhaust and later, water injection. (Get ready for the questions
> John! ;) )

I don't want to sound negative but I miss the upgrade stages or better said
the path you are going. I don't see anything about fuel and I just wonder
what a FMIC will help with the stock turbos and possible stock IC piping. As
you design the system (?) the way you want it I wonder what way you go. Let
us know.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

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