--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #333
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Friday,
November 12 1999 Volume 01 : Number
333
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 07:35:53 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Throttle body
wanted
Anyone with a Throttle Body 4 sale (VR-4 type) please EMail me
ASAP.
Tks
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 11:02:40 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: RPS Clutch
Update...
I've recently returned my "new" RPS Carbonite clutch
to Rob Smith for an
upggrade.
Rob, has explained to me that he is going
to be making a new 4 puck racing
design using the same materials. He will be
making the molds soon and this
design should be able to hold more power.
Maybe available in another month or
so. This is my 3rd clutch upgrade
without having any of them installed. Will
I ever get done?
JFYI
Arty
91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 08:30:27 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cryogenics (on topic)
It's not that the part itself is
harder..less flexible..but the surface of the
metals in question are much
stronger, and will withstand much higher stress on
the surface.
Gear
faces, brake rotors, pistons/rings/cylinder walls...etc..all benefit
from
this practice.
I dont belive it's meant to say that it can
withstand for torque force without
breaking.
"If I had
$1M" I would like to see the results of a full cryo-treated
drivetrain,
and the drag/loss numbers on it on a dyno as compared to stock.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [
mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, November 10, 1999 10:18 PM
To: team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cryogenics (on topic)
>an oak tree in a tropical storm.
Although the oak may be considered
>stronger it is also more likely to be
toppled than the bamboo. Up to a
>point the bamboo will bend and
return to shape undamaged. An oak will
>simply break once it has met
a certain level of force.
>
I do remember reading in one of my Hot Rod
mags about gears for drag racing
being different than street gears. To
my amazement, I learned that drag
gears are
actually softer so they can
deform under large shock loads and not break,
while a street
gear is made
harder and less pliable to resist frictional wear. So, harder
may not
be the answer
for pieces that are under torsional stresses.
Sam 95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 12:02:24 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Monsters Update
- Arty
In brief, my car's new engine design concept...
Each 3/3
cylinders are being run as a separate engine.
Each side having its own
intake, fuel, 2 front intercoolers, turbo, exhaust
etc.
The engine itself
is fully race built JE pistons, Crower rods, Lam cams, new
crank & head.
I've gone to a 92mm overbore. This left enough for one more
cut in the event
we blow but gave us the most strength to run the higher
boost.
Fuel will
be provided to lots of HKS 720cc inj by a Whalen pump. I've kept
the
VPC
and added the GCC along with the AIC (all HKS stuff). Wheels are the
Volks
TE37's 17x9.5 and will have Drag Radials not slicks. There is so much
more
then I'm able to talk about yet but its truly a Monster. It will be
ready
for
the Season Opening. And I expect to be at the DSM Shootout next year
running
8's and I'll be proud to haul it to the Gathering.
Arty 91
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:53:10 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Dam air dams
I was thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero
air dam and motor in
the front, and adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all
the way across the
front.
With the lowered suspension (going in next
week), this oughta just about
hug the ground.
Any opinions on how to
do this? I thought I'd bolt a L-shaped bracket the
full length of the
rubber skirt, and then bolt the bracket to the 2 dozen
or so bolts currently
holding the undercover to the lower valence panel.
Then, I thought
I could cut two 1x8 in. slots into the air dam and run
scoops to the 2-1/2
in. brake ducts.
Anybody ever done this with a 3000GT or any other race
car?
Should I shape it a little so it forms a wedge? Or should it be
straight
across?
I'm thinking that if the hard rubber hits an obstacle, it
will deform but
then snap back. Think this will work? Or should I try a
different material,
such as urethane?
All ideas are welcome. This will
be another winter project.
\
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 12:11:34 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam
air dams
Hey Rich;
Why reinvent the wheel...buy a used lightweight
fixed front dam from a
Stealth and alter that.
Best
Darc
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 11, 1999 12:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Dam air
dams
>I was thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam
and motor in
>the front, and adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all the
way across the
>front.
>
>With the lowered suspension (going
in next week), this oughta just about
>hug the ground.
>
>Any
opinions on how to do this? I thought I'd bolt a L-shaped bracket
the
>full length of the rubber skirt, and then bolt the bracket to the 2
dozen
>or so bolts currently holding the undercover to the lower
valence panel.
>
>Then, I thought I could cut two 1x8 in. slots into
the air dam and run
>scoops to the 2-1/2 in. brake
ducts.
>
>Anybody ever done this with a 3000GT or any other race
car?
>Should I shape it a little so it forms a wedge? Or should it be
straight
>across?
>I'm thinking that if the hard rubber hits an
obstacle, it will deform but
>then snap back. Think this will work? Or
should I try a different material,
>such as urethane?
>
>All
ideas are welcome. This will be another winter project.
>\
>Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 22:17:30 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dam air dams
> I was thinking about removing the 55 lb active
aero air dam and motor in
Huh ? 55lb for the front parts ... no way. I
had it off the car (not the motor)
when I removed the front and it was very
light. Where does this wight figure
come from ??
> With the lowered
suspension (going in next week), this oughta just about
> hug the
ground.
If you have the car lowered but not with stiffer springs than
yes, it will.
> I'm thinking that if the hard rubber hits an obstacle,
it will deform but
> then snap back. Think this will work? Or should I try
a different material,
> such as urethane?
Both will be as heavy as
the stock parts ! The only thing you can do that will
safe weight is to add a
lip that adds the same functionality. It is not
neccessary to have a solid
"block" style air dam as a simple solid hard rubber
lip would work
good.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:20:22 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dam air dams
Rich...
You might check JC Whitney's.
Years ago I lowered and built a race
suspension on a German V6 Capri. JC
Whitney had a 3" fiberglass dam with a
3" rubber dam below it,
custom made for MANY different cars. Probably
weighed less than ten pounds.
It held up through all the speed bump and
driveway scrapes, up until the
point I shot off the freeway one morning at
95 mph and took out a highway
signpost. The air dam (and the rest of the
car) didn't survive that (but I
did). :-)
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Thursday, November 11, 1999 11:53 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Dam air dams
I was thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero
air dam and motor in
the front, and adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all
the way across the
front.
Any opinions on how to do this?
<snip>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:43:16 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dam air dams
- -----Original Message-----From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>I
was thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam and
motor
in
>the front, and adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all the
way
across the
>front.
I like Darcy's idea of using a
lightweight Stealth front end
better... It's probably about the same
weight as hard rubber, too.
But pricey, unless you can get it from a
junkyard...
>With the lowered suspension (going in next week), this
oughta just
about
>hug the ground.
And it'll also insure
that you can never go in or out of a driveway
again without ripping out the
front... :-) From what I've heard,
abut a 1" drop is about
all we can handle. Mine is only 1", and
even I have to go into
driveways at an angle, and at a crawl speed.
I hope you're going to flatbed
the car everywhere, since more than
an inch or so just isn't practical,
IMO.
- --------snip----------
>I'm thinking that if the hard rubber
hits an obstacle, it will
deform but
>then snap back. Think this will
work? Or should I try a different
material,
>such as
urethane?
It'll deform every time it hits an obstacle... even
an obstacle
like onrushing air! Over about 60mph, hard rubber is going
to flap
like a rubber band, and it'll probably set up a pretty loud
standing
audio wave while its doing it. As they say, you should be
"humming
right along". LOL! :-) I had one of the
rubber ones on the front
of my GTO (Pontiac) some years back and the noise
wasn't pleasant.
I'm sure they're better quality now, but be
forewarned.
I like your urethane idea a lot better. You might even
be able to
fashion a mold of some kind and use one of the rigid expandable
foam
types (they come in different densities, flexibilities,
weights...).
Even if the dam gets trashed, you can still make another.
One of
the detail shops in my area told me that it would be a lot
cheaper
for them to make a mold and make me a new front end than to buy
the
part from Dodge (~$700). You might want to find a similar shop
in
your area and ask what materials they have available for
'mold-able'
body components.
Sounds like a cool project! Good
luck!
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:56:11 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front air dam
Something to think about...
Has anyone
thought about lengthening the front air dam arms so that the dam
drops down
further when actuated? I thought a 1" extension would work nicely
if
the dam is flexible enough. It would also retract further too, thus
you could
attach a small 1" extension to the dam and it should still
retract to provide
stock clearance.
- --
I'm surprised you stopped
me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 15:24:02 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dam air dams
>You might check JC Whitney's. Years ago I
lowered and built a race
>suspension on a German V6 Capri. JC Whitney had
a 3" fiberglass dam with a
>3" rubber dam below it, custom made
for MANY different cars. Probably
>weighed less than ten
pounds.
I've seen those in the latest catalog. Nothing specific for our
cars, but
maybe something could be adapter.
Might be worth a
try.
Thanks
Rioch
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 15:25:50 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dam air dams
At 10:17 PM 11/11/99 +0100, R.G.
wrote:
>> I was thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam
and motor in
>
>Huh ? 55lb for the front parts ... no way. I had it
off the car (not the
motor)
>when I removed the front and it was very
light. Where does this wight figure
>come from ??
I read this on
the list a few days back. The motor is the heavy
part,
apparently.
Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 15:13:45 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dam air dams
>Mine is only 1", and
>even I have to go into
driveways at an angle, and at a crawl speed.
>I hope you're going to
flatbed the car everywhere, since more than
>an inch or so just isn't
practical, IMO.
What kind of springs did you use to lower your car?
I used Eibach springs,
lowered the car by 1.3"'s and I havent' really
had any problems except on
really steep angles (which I avoid :).
Granted I do go slow over some bumps
just to make sure, but the car has much
less tendancy to 'dip' now when
going over bumps and such. I guess
perhaps it's the stiffness of the
springs? But I agree with you on not
going with more than a ~1" drop. From
what I was told if you are
going to go lower than that you pretty much need
a new suspension because the
stock one just can't adjust for it (as in your
alignment on the wheels will
be completely FUBAR'd, and your handling will
be actually worse due to
instability). I've heard that the Tien system is
supposed to be really
good, but it's a bit pricey :(. You can check it out
at
www.gtpro.comLatuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03 -0800
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
Just thought I'd share my
expierences with the RPS clutch I installed early September.
I was one of the
dozen or so that purchased the "Turbo Clutch Carbon" as part of a
group
purchase (dealt with Matt at Accelerated Accessories). Since
installation, I've run my
car at the track on three different occasions for a
total of 20 runs, ran several hot
laps at the Las Vegas Super Speedway road
course, and ran the Silver State Classic (90
mile race with an average speed
of 125mph).
At first I didn't like the excessive chatter on easy launches
(street driving) but it
has gotten better with time. My track times
suffered greatly my first eight to ten runs
due to horrible launches at the
track with one of them resulting with too many rpms and
a smoked
clutch. The excessive slip on the one run didn't seem to affect the clutch
too
much as it was back to normal on the next run 20 minutes later. The
bad performance was
likely my fault as I just couldn't keep the clutch from
bringing the rpms down (pretty
grabby). Typical 60 foot times were 2.0
- 2.1 seconds. This was disappointing given my
last RPS clutch gave me
many 1.8 second 60 foot times. Finally, with some careful
driving and
perhaps the clutch breaking in, I have been able to launch hard (1.7 to
1.8)
with no slipping. My car is modified with 15G turbos and 550cc
injectors with VPC &
GCC. My best time since the new clutch has
been a 12.236 at 113mph (also my all time
best). I plan on dropping
well into the 11's next year.
The clutch had zero problems at the road
course and Silver State Classic (finished 6th
out of 19 cars in my
class). The aggressive shifting of these events does not tax the
clutch
like the 1/4 mile launches. The brakes gave me many more problems than
the
clutch.
I will be removing the transaxle this winter to replace
the output shaft and maybe
syncros (part of Jack's order) but will be keeping
the clutch. I've beat on it enough
this fall to know I'm happy with
it. Of course, I don't know how long it will last.
The last RPS clutch
lasted considerably longer than the two stock clutchs and two
centerforce
units that were in the car under the previous owner. I'm happy with
RPS
products and will continue to support them.
Joe Gonsowski,
'92
R/T TT
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
I've recently returned my "new" RPS Carbonite clutch to Rob Smith for
an
> upggrade.
> Rob, has explained to me that he is going to be
making a new 4 puck racing
> design using the same materials. He will be
making the molds soon and this
> design should be able to hold more power.
Maybe available in another month or
> so. This is my 3rd clutch upgrade
without having any of them installed. Will
> I ever get done?
>
JFYI
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 18:30:19 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Lowering, Eibachs... (was: Dam air dams)
- -----Original
Message-----From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell
<
benson@2015.com>
>>Forrest
wrote:
>>Mine is only 1", and
>>even I have to go into
driveways at an angle, and at a crawl
speed.
>>I hope you're going
to flatbed the car everywhere, since more than
>>an inch or so just
isn't practical, IMO.
>
>What kind of springs did you use to lower
your car? I used Eibach
springs,
>lowered the car by 1.3"'s
and I havent' really had any problems
except on
>really steep angles
(which I avoid :). Granted I do go slow over
some bumps
>just to
make sure, but the car has much less tendancy to 'dip' now
when
>going
over bumps and such. I guess perhaps it's the stiffness
of
the
>springs? But I agree with you on not going with more than
a ~1"
drop. From
>what I was told if you are going to go
lower than that you pretty
much need
>a new suspension because the
stock one just can't adjust for it (as
in your
>alignment on the wheels
will be completely FUBAR'd, and your
handling will
-
--------snip--------
Yeah, I went with the Eibachs, too, and don't get me
wrong-- I
couldn't be happier with them. Cornering, control
around road
hazards, even the unanticipated pothole, are all handled better
with
these springs, with much less plowing, dip, etc... But I can
only
go up the slightest inclines without scraping, so I slow way
down.
And it is a fair trade-off, since I'm spoiled now-- I'd never
go
back to the stock springs.
It was an "Eibach Nightmare"
thread (on the list for a week)
sometime before you joined us. It bears
mentioning again for newer
members, but the Eibachs require some modification
when installing
in the rear. As you say, it's almost impossible to get
a correct
alignment, but I got lots of help from the Team3S guys on the
list
who had been through it before. If anyone is planning on
installing
Eibach springs, email privately and I'll send all the info
that
finally helped me (and the dealer) get it
right.
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:27:58 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
One of our "Minnesota
3/S" owners purchased the RPS Turbo Carbon clutch a
few months
ago. It worked fine for awhile. About three weeks ago it
started
slipping bad. And it was the "newer" style, ya know after the
initial problems the group purchase had.
RPS is only refunding a
fraction of the cost of the installation of it too.
Sounds like a
crappy deal to me. Another MN 3/S owner is returning his RPS,
before
it gets installed. It makes me happy I bought an ACT clutch. Thirty
1/4 mile runs and 8,000 miles on it with out any problems.
If you buy
a RPS clutch, buyer beware....
later,
Curt
>From: Joe
Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
>To:
3000GT / Stealth List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03
-0800
>
>I will be removing the transaxle this winter to replace
the output shaft
>and maybe
>syncros (part of Jack's order) but
will be keeping the clutch. I've beat
>on it enough
>this
fall to know I'm happy with it. Of course, I don't know how long it
>will last.
>The last RPS clutch lasted considerably longer than
the two stock clutchs
>and two
>centerforce units that were in the
car under the previous owner. I'm happy
>with RPS
>products
and will continue to support them.
>
>Joe Gonsowski,
>'92 R/T
TT
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:50:40 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
I still have not installed my
"new and improved" RPS clutch... after two
defective ones I'm a
little gun shy...
Also, Rob promised to send me a check to help
"compensate" me for my loss in
time etc.. I never saw
the check, and he also tried to send me a pressure
plate that was
"weaker" than the rest, which was my problem to begin with.
I
have the "normal" pressure plate, but I'm still trying to talk myself
into
trying this clutch out or not.
I'll sell the clutch to someone
for a pretty decent price.. What did the
last group buy go
for?
The RPS clutch seems to be working ~1 our of 3
units.. It sounds like a
crap shoot to me.. at ~400.00 to
install a clutch, it gets real expensive
fast.
Brad
Check out
my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Curt Gendron
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 11:28 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
One of our "Minnesota
3/S" owners purchased the RPS Turbo Carbon clutch a
few months
ago. It worked fine for awhile. About three weeks ago it
started
slipping bad. And it was the "newer" style, ya know after
the
initial problems the group purchase had.
RPS is only refunding a
fraction of the cost of the installation of it too.
Sounds like a crappy deal
to me. Another MN 3/S owner is returning his RPS,
before it gets
installed. It makes me happy I bought an ACT clutch. Thirty
1/4
mile runs and 8,000 miles on it with out any problems.
If you buy a RPS
clutch, buyer beware....
later,
Curt
>From: Joe Gonsowski
<
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
>To:
3000GT / Stealth List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03
-0800
>
>I will be removing the transaxle this winter to replace
the output shaft
>and maybe
>syncros (part of Jack's order) but will
be keeping the clutch. I've beat
>on it enough
>this fall to
know I'm happy with it. Of course, I don't know how long it
>will
last.
>The last RPS clutch lasted considerably longer than the two stock
clutchs
>and two
>centerforce units that were in the car under the
previous owner. I'm happy
>with RPS
>products and will
continue to support them.
>
>Joe Gonsowski,
>'92 R/T
TT
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:24:30 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
Hi Curt and all,
Very
interesting information I must say. I have also heard not too good
things
about the RPS Clutch. A friend of mine installed it in his 300zx and
was
driving around with it normally after a month and going just normal
speed
when it just blew into bits for no reason. Friend told me it was made
in
Korea actually and that's why it did not last (no offense to Koreans
though).
Even my mechanic thinks otherwise and says his step son uses the
Centerforce
in his 500hp muscle car. Impressive.
Anyway, I was thinking of getting
the Centerforce Clutch, any input or is
this a redundant question which I
should not really ask? Also, I have always
liked the ACT clutches. The DSM
guys over in Seattle use the ACT clutch and
say it is just excellent. What is
your input on that?
Comparing ther longevity of the Centerforce and ACT
clutches, which one
should I actually get? Let's assume we are using it for
both normal driving
WHEN THE SUN IS OUT and during the Summer drags!
:)
Thanks people.
Julian Ng
94 VR4 Seattle.
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 11, 1999 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update,
my take
>One of our "Minnesota 3/S" owners purchased the
RPS Turbo Carbon clutch a
>few months ago. It worked fine for
awhile. About three weeks ago it
>started slipping bad. And it
was the "newer" style, ya know after the
>initial problems the
group purchase had.
>
>RPS is only refunding a fraction of the cost
of the installation of it too.
>Sounds like a crappy deal to me.
Another MN 3/S owner is returning his
RPS,
>before it gets
installed. It makes me happy I bought an ACT clutch.
Thirty
>1/4
mile runs and 8,000 miles on it with out any problems.
>
>If you buy
a RPS clutch, buyer
beware....
>
>later,
>Curt
>
>>From: Joe
Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
>>To:
3000GT / Stealth List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
>>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999
20:04:03 -0800
>>
>
>>I will be removing the transaxle
this winter to replace the output shaft
>>and maybe
>>syncros
(part of Jack's order) but will be keeping the clutch. I've
beat
>>on it enough
>>this fall to know I'm happy with
it. Of course, I don't know how long it
>>will
last.
>>The last RPS clutch lasted considerably longer than the two
stock clutchs
>>and two
>>centerforce units that were in the
car under the previous owner. I'm
happy
>>with
RPS
>>products and will continue to support
them.
>>
>>Joe Gonsowski,
>>'92 R/T
TT
>>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:22:46 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
> Anyway, I was thinking of getting
the Centerforce Clutch, any
> input or is this a redundant question which
I should not
> really ask? Also, I have always liked the ACT
clutches. The
> DSM guys over in Seattle use the ACT clutch and say it
is
> just excellent. What is your input on that?
I had both
Centerforce and ACT clutches in my '93 Eclipse GSX.
The Centerforce wouldn't
handle the 300 HP I was feeding into
it after a mere 8,000 miles. It
would slip big-time. I didn't
even have any* 1/4 mile runs on it, just
a few autocrosses and
normal daily driving. I had the flywheel
perfectly surfaced
exactly to their specs, and when I removed the clutch from
the
car, there was still plenty of friction material left on
the
disc.
I didn't want to get another Centerforce, so I got the
2600lb
ACT DSM clutch. It worked flawlessly from day one until
the
day I sold the car. The new owner beats on the car even
more
than I did, and he hasn't had a problem with it, either.
The
engagement was a little rough, but I attribute that to the
higher
clamping force of the pressure plate. I would buy
the 2100lb plate if I
needed a DSM clutch at some point.
> Comparing ther longevity of the
Centerforce and ACT clutches,
> which one should I actually get? Let's
assume we are using it
> for both normal driving WHEN THE SUN IS OUT and
during the
> Summer drags! :)
The longevity on my Centerforce
sucked bad. The ACT is still
working perfectly after 25,000
miles. That's only one data
point, so certainly collect more opinions
than just mine.
When the stock clutch in the Spyder goes south, I'll be
doing
the ACT. I can't risk the crap-shoot with the RPS clutch as
I
hate to pay for labor!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #333
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm