--
From:
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(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #332
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Team3S Digest Thursday,
November 11 1999 Volume 01 : Number
332
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 01:31:09 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Question to those who have a Hallman boost controller
I have
a boost controller made by Diamond Star Specialties (DSS). It is
IDENTICAL in
operation to the hallman (hbc) (which I have two of, both on my
other cars).
However it is not as "touchy" unless you want to go over
about
18-19psi, where an extra spring needs to be installed. The construction
is
really similar as well as the hook up.
This type of boost
controller is NOT really a bleeder, and actually lets the
turbo spool a bit
quicker due to NO pressure being seen by the wastegate(s)
until the check
ball inside the HBC lets the set pressure out to them. Stock
operation, I
would not be surprised to know that the wastegates start to
crack open (and
make your turbo's less efficient/slower to build boost) at
about
5psi!
I have it set to 12 psi, and it doesn't creep at all. I have gone
as high as
14psi (where I recorded my ~400hp to the wheels, and also a 13.5
1/4 mile
time) with no problems, and quicker than stock spool overall. It is
a simple
hookup, and if you use some 3mm silicon tubing, you can revert back
to stock
if need be (warranty issues, that I don't have :(
Best of
all, the HBC is near $95, the XBC (Extreme) is about the same, the
DSS is
cheaper than either, and there is another player just announced to
the DSM
digest, and definately has other well made products,
http://users.erinet.com/40666/DSM-MBC.htmIMO,
an electronic boost controller is just about $250 that you could have
spent
to actually go faster... plus a MBC is much... MUCH easier to install.
I
believe that that last URL I posted actually has a "hybrid" of the
two, a
hallman style BC with 2-3 settings with solenoids. All for less than
180$ (I
think).
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:01:37 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC MAF
> Roger, do you like the ARC MAF? Is it worth
$1000 and does it give you any
> more power alone ?
It works better
than expected. It just started snowing here and when I installed the ARC/MAF, it
was 90° outside. So this is a great test for the reliability and till now,
it is very good ! Well, of course, you have 4 knobs that have to be dialed in
and one click is 2% adjustment. I often wished that the adjustments woudl be in
1% because sometimes 2% more are rich and 2% less are lean.
It is easier
to dial it in as the VPC was that I once installed for a test with the stock
injectors. This is due to the fact that there must no chip be installed and
therefore this huge variable is eliminated.
> How much better is
it than a VPC? I went to your site and I concluded from your
graphs
> that knock was not significantly different, but that you
attribute that to
> stock injectors.
Exactly ! I included the
datalogs on my page to show the people what happens when you dial in the ARC. It
also shows, that our cars even under rich conditions (O2 sensor readings)cause
knock. Increasing the fuel then will eliminate the knock to the stock level but
the injectors will be also maxxed out. The ARC/MAF is not a device that
eliminates knock but it frees up the air flow and allows the add of any injector
size you want from 360cc to 720cc ! Also installation of the ARC is a breeze
compared to the VPC, although a well installed VPC that is properly tuned in is
a very good solution too. I got the ARC/MAF because it is seems to be much more
reliable for any seasons and ambient conditions than the VPC. As I drive it
since 1200 miles with so many differnet conditions I'd say it is very good and
the fuel consumption is less and less the more I drive. My current settings give
a good mixture during normal driving and fuel when fuel (i.e. Power) is needed.
The only problem is !
that I sometimes play with the settings as the
difference between off throttle (engine braking) and then going back to light
throttle is very sensible and to find the right balance is not that easy. I now
left one of the good combinations and changed my driving style a little. Nothing
to worry IMHO.
> I am planning on getting the 550cc injectors, Supra
pump, 15g turbos and some sort of fuel
> computer.
Right path ! But
for the later you only have two real solutions : ARC / VPC. The AFC is something
like a solution that is always rpm based and is not dependant on the load. I'd
say that this is good for the track or up to 460cc injectors but not for
more.
> I was just going to get a G-Force because these will be
the extent of my mods as far as
> turbos are concerned and will not need
further adjustment-this is a daily driver and I want no real
> lag and
reliable power.
What I noticed is that I have less bog when shifting into
second. Also when I accelerate heavily in first I have to careful as on a little
wet roads all four wheels start to spin and this can end in a bad experience. We
have other quality of the streets here in Europe (esp. Switzerland) and normally
it is almost impossible to spin the tires. I haven't been to the dyno as I
wanted to solve the ignition problems first and I'm a little bit low on money (a
run is $100) right now. But my dyno butt and the active speed and power limiter
in the passengers seat (i.e. girlfriend yelling at me) tells me that there is
more power due to the free airflow and fuel on demand.
> Also, I need
good mileage and only get about 300 miles to a tank now! What is your
opinion on
> this ARC unit, and how fuel efficient is it under normal
driving?
As George already stated fuel economy is good. I myself would
say it is very good. First, the A/F meter that comes with the ARC is something
like an anti-lead-foot device :-) The blue bright LEDs showing rich conditions
are causing a "I waste fuel" feeling in my mind. The mixture balances
in the stoich area when normal driving, cruising and idle and only goes
rich/very rich when needed. With this, it takes me less fuel than I ever used
and this is about 335 - 345 miles per tank. Of course, with the many faster cars
we have around here it is easy to consume more of the juice. When I do some
tests with datalogs .... no comment on fuel consumption ;-)
The stuff is
not cheap as $1000 is a lot for fuel controlling. Then the injectors and the
fuel pump also are not the cheapest part. But then you are open to anything !
You can start with DSM injectors, keep the stock turbos and later increase the
boost and run larger Turbos. The adjustments must then only be made on the ARC
with the four knobs and you're done. It'll take some time until you have reached
the goal as you want a fast street car and a racing car as well but the ARC/MAF
is a one time investion and you do not need a new program anyone else must burn
for you.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:06:27 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Honey Combs ....ARC/MAF
> Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded
MAF unit with the monster flow.
As already stated, the MAF and the ARC
run together. You cannot use one without the other, no way. "Monster
flow" is a little bit too positive as the dia is only 83mm and the 100mm is
in test and may not give us more gain.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 02:33:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC MAF
YOu still get 345 miles on a tank? I average 270 miles
before the yellow
indicator lite comes on. My car is also a 93 VR-4.
Admittadely, I am 18
and still have alot of "teenage
exhuberance"... So I suppose this mileage
will go up.. (Oh and the
yellow indicator light goes on at 17 gallons,
even though we have a 20 galon
tank right?)
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On
Wed, 10 Nov 1999, R.G. wrote:
> > Roger, do you like the ARC
MAF? Is it worth $1000 and does it give you any
> > more power
alone ?
>
> It works better than expected. It just started snowing
here and when I installed the ARC/MAF, it was 90° outside. So this is a
great test for the reliability and till now, it is very good ! Well, of course,
you have 4 knobs that have to be dialed in and one click is 2% adjustment. I
often wished that the adjustments woudl be in 1% because sometimes 2% more are
rich and 2% less are lean.
>
> It is easier to dial it in as the
VPC was that I once installed for a test with the stock injectors. This is due
to the fact that there must no chip be installed and therefore this huge
variable is eliminated.
>
> > How much better is it than a
VPC? I went to your site and I concluded from your graphs
> >
that knock was not significantly different, but that you attribute that
to
> > stock injectors.
>
> Exactly ! I included the
datalogs on my page to show the people what happens when you dial in the ARC. It
also shows, that our cars even under rich conditions (O2 sensor readings)cause
knock. Increasing the fuel then will eliminate the knock to the stock level but
the injectors will be also maxxed out. The ARC/MAF is not a device that
eliminates knock but it frees up the air flow and allows the add of any injector
size you want from 360cc to 720cc ! Also installation of the ARC is a breeze
compared to the VPC, although a well installed VPC that is properly tuned in is
a very good solution too. I got the ARC/MAF because it is seems to be much more
reliable for any seasons and ambient conditions than the VPC. As I drive it
since 1200 miles with so many differnet conditions I'd say it is very good and
the fuel consumption is less and less the more I drive. My current settings give
a good mixture during normal driving and fuel when fuel (i.e. Power) is needed.
The only problem i!
s !
> that I sometimes play with the settings as
the difference between off throttle (engine braking) and then going back to
light throttle is very sensible and to find the right balance is not that easy.
I now left one of the good combinations and changed my driving style a little.
Nothing to worry IMHO.
>
> > I am planning on getting the 550cc
injectors, Supra pump, 15g turbos and some sort of fuel
> >
computer.
>
> Right path ! But for the later you only have two real
solutions : ARC / VPC. The AFC is something like a solution that is always rpm
based and is not dependant on the load. I'd say that this is good for the track
or up to 460cc injectors but not for more.
>
> > I was
just going to get a G-Force because these will be the extent of my mods as far
as
> > turbos are concerned and will not need further adjustment-this
is a daily driver and I want no real
> > lag and reliable
power.
>
> What I noticed is that I have less bog when shifting
into second. Also when I accelerate heavily in first I have to careful as on a
little wet roads all four wheels start to spin and this can end in a bad
experience. We have other quality of the streets here in Europe (esp.
Switzerland) and normally it is almost impossible to spin the tires. I haven't
been to the dyno as I wanted to solve the ignition problems first and I'm a
little bit low on money (a run is $100) right now. But my dyno butt and the
active speed and power limiter in the passengers seat (i.e. girlfriend yelling
at me) tells me that there is more power due to the free airflow and fuel on
demand.
>
> > Also, I need good mileage and only get about 300
miles to a tank now! What is your opinion on
> > this ARC unit,
and how fuel efficient is it under normal driving?
>
> As George
already stated fuel economy is good. I myself would say it is very good. First,
the A/F meter that comes with the ARC is something like an anti-lead-foot device
:-) The blue bright LEDs showing rich conditions are causing a "I waste
fuel" feeling in my mind. The mixture balances in the stoich area when
normal driving, cruising and idle and only goes rich/very rich when needed. With
this, it takes me less fuel than I ever used and this is about 335 - 345 miles
per tank. Of course, with the many faster cars we have around here it is easy to
consume more of the juice. When I do some tests with datalogs .... no comment on
fuel consumption ;-)
>
> The stuff is not cheap as $1000 is a lot
for fuel controlling. Then the injectors and the fuel pump also are not the
cheapest part. But then you are open to anything ! You can start with DSM
injectors, keep the stock turbos and later increase the boost and run larger
Turbos. The adjustments must then only be made on the ARC with the four knobs
and you're done. It'll take some time until you have reached the goal as you
want a fast street car and a racing car as well but the ARC/MAF is a one time
investion and you do not need a new program anyone else must burn for
you.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:17:39 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Cryogenics (on topic)
Check this out!!!!!
http://members.aol.com/fasfwrd/These
guys (FFWD Connection) say that they can make any metal part 3 times
stronger
by "Cryogenics"
If I understand it right they put the whole
part (gearbox, axle, turbos or
wahatever) in a big "fridge" and
slowly drop the temperature to -340 deg F
until the whole part has that
temperature and then slowly up to 70F and then
they cycle that a few times
(3).
I've heard about Cryo rotors but didn't thought it could be applied
to
shafts and pistons etc. If they can make my transfer case 3 times
stonger
then this is the best since....eh.. the invention of turbos..
:)
Any one tested this? Is this for real or is it a hoax just to rip me
off?
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:35:16 -0500
From: "Michael McWilliams" <
CelMike@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question to those who have a Hallman boost controller.
I have
a Hallman in my Stealth which was in my Talon before that.
Answers
to your questions (as best I can)
1. I think it DOES
spool up faster than stock but it may just be my
perception since I raised
boost pressure over stock when I installed it.
2. I have not had to
adjust it for weather conditions. I was told that if
you keep the hoses
very short, you shouldn't have to and I've found this to
be
true.
3. I don't know what the in-line brass piece does
(sorry)
4. I assume by overshoot you mean boost spikes. The
answer is I didn't get
spikes in either car.
5. I don't see any
problems with them and always recommend them to people
who ask my
opinion. Only downside is that its not cockpit adjustable, and
its
really just trial and error to get it set to the boost pressure
you
want. This doesn't really bother me because I just set it once when
I
installed it and haven't touched it since.
Hope this
helps.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:59:01 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Cryogenics (on topic)
This could be a good route to take, or it may not
be...
"Strength" is an insufficient term. Something that
is very very hard may
withstand certain types of force but may also be more
susceptible to other
types of stresses. The converse is true as
well. I'd be concerned about
the amount of repeated shock the driveline
is subjected to by the engine.
Once under load it may not be as big of a deal
unless the engine is simply
producing more power than the metal can
withstand. So, you'd need to
determine the constant pressure the pieces
can withstand as well as the
resilience to shock and how well it holds up
under repeated applied stress.
Pardon the analogy, but it may serve to
illustrate. Consider a bamboo and
an oak tree in a tropical
storm. Although the oak may be considered
stronger it is also more
likely to be toppled than the bamboo. Up to a
point the bamboo will
bend and return to shape undamaged. An oak will
simply break once it
has met a certain level of force.
It may be worth asking
them.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> Check this
out!!!!!
>
>
http://members.aol.com/fasfwrd/>
>
These guys (FFWD Connection) say that they can make any metal part 3
times
> stronger by "Cryogenics"
>
> If I understand
it right they put the whole part (gearbox, axle, turbos or
> wahatever) in
a big "fridge" and slowly drop the temperature to -340 deg F
>
until the whole part has that temperature and then slowly up to
> 70F and
then
> they cycle that a few times (3).
>
> I've heard about
Cryo rotors but didn't thought it could be applied to
> shafts and pistons
etc. If they can make my transfer case 3 times stonger
> then this is the
best since....eh.. the invention of turbos.. :)
>
> Any one tested
this? Is this for real or is it a hoax just to rip me off?
>
>
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:38:27 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ARC MAF
Roger...
When you say "no chip
installed" are you talking about the G-force chips? I
was under the
impression you're still running your modified ECU along with
the ARC
MAF...not true?
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. [
mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent:
Wednesday, November 10, 1999 2:02 AM
To: team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC
MAF
<snip>
It is easier to dial it in as the VPC was that I once
installed for a test
with the stock injectors. This is due to the fact that
there must no chip be
installed and therefore this huge variable is
eliminated.
<snip>
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:54:25 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cryogenics (on topic)
AFAIK it works great!
We used it
on our mini Indy Racer cars in Tulsa, and the Cryo motor/gearbox
equipped
cars run hotter, and longer.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mikael
Åkesson [
mailto:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Wednesday,
November 10, 1999 3:18 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Cryogenics (on topic)
Check this out!!!!!
http://members.aol.com/fasfwrd/These
guys (FFWD Connection) say that they can make any metal part 3 times
stronger
by "Cryogenics"
If I understand it right they put the whole
part (gearbox, axle, turbos or
wahatever) in a big "fridge" and
slowly drop the temperature to -340 deg F
until the whole part has that
temperature and then slowly up to 70F and then
they cycle that a few times
(3).
I've heard about Cryo rotors but didn't thought it could be applied
to
shafts and pistons etc. If they can make my transfer case 3 times
stonger
then this is the best since....eh.. the invention of turbos..
:)
Any one tested this? Is this for real or is it a hoax just to rip me
off?
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:07:25 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
Relevent to the discussion, some
tech notes I located concerning Toyota, but
applies overall to any of our
cars.
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonictech/tet/
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:32:12 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
Ummm, your link only brought up an
FTP directory with a bunch of pictures
in it. I didn't see any
technical data, unless the pictures are supposed to
be it. Was this by
mistake?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:16:37 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Honey Comb Straightening
With all this talk of folks needing new
MAFs because of damaged honeycombs, I
thought I would share how you can
straighten them out. A 16 penny nail does the
job real nicely.
You may have to remove the honeycomb though and push the nail
through from
the back side. Also an Allen wrench might work well too since it
is
hex-shaped. Try this first before spending any money!
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
I'm just driving this way to piss you
off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:19:21 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
No..it wasnt.
Click on
them.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo"
Russell [
mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, November 10, 1999 8:32 AM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S:
Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
Ummm, your link only brought up
an FTP directory with a bunch of pictures
in it. I didn't see any
technical data, unless the pictures are supposed to
be it. Was this by
mistake?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:36:32 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)"
<
MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 9B and 13G Compressor Housings
I know that this has been hashed
out before, but....
Are the 9B and 13G Compressor housings the
same?? Will the 13G compressor
wheel fit into the stock 9B
housing??
I know that the some of the 13gs come with the larger
turbine...TD04(stock)
vs. TD04L. Just curious about the
compressor.
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:41:48 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC MAF
> YOu still get 345 miles on a tank?
The light
just started to light up (in turns) at about 310 miles.
> (Oh and the
yellow indicator light goes on at 17 gallons, even though
> we have a 20
galon tank right?)
Yes, its a 20 gal tank and I usually drive the car
until about 18-19 gals go
in. I was able to do more than 30 miles with the
reserve and this tells me
that I'm getting again a good mileage.
This
became better with the ARC as we all know that our cars run very rich
even
when cruising. With the ARC it is possible to tune the system for
economy
while cruising and immediaty rich mixture when power is
needed.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:44:47 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC MAF
> When you say "no chip installed" are you
talking about the G-force chips?
I
> was under the impression you're
still running your modified ECU along with
> the ARC MAF...not
true?
No, I was talking about the program (stored in the EPROM, also
called a
chip) in the VPC. I have two ECUs at the moment, a stock EU and a a
G-Force
with some programs.
The G-Force programs do not have fuel
modifications but the timing is
altered.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 14:04:36 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ARC MAF
Roger...
Hmmm, that's not what Robert at
G-force tells me. He says they not only
alter the rev limiter, speed limiter,
and timing, but air/fuel maps as well.
Did you receive the letter I sent?
Although I can't decode the values from
his spreadsheet, the numbers for
air/fuel are clearly different between
stock and the chip set he programmed
for my car.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. [
mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent:
Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:45 PM
To: team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC
MAF
> When you say "no chip installed" are you talking
about the G-force chips?
I
> was under the impression you're still
running your modified ECU along with
> the ARC MAF...not true?
No,
I was talking about the program (stored in the EPROM, also called a
chip) in
the VPC. I have two ECUs at the moment, a stock EU and a a G-Force
with some
programs.
The G-Force programs do not have fuel modifications but the
timing is
altered.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:10:20 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC MAF
> Hmmm, that's not what Robert at G-force tells me.
He says they not only
> alter the rev limiter, speed limiter, and timing,
but air/fuel maps as
well.
BUT, they will if you tell them to do so
;-) I have the GT Alley Special
programs that have been made for cars that
have an alternate fuel control
like a VPC or the ARC.
> Did you
receive the letter I sent? Although I can't decode the values from
> his
spreadsheet, the numbers for air/fuel are clearly different between
>
stock and the chip set he programmed for my car.
Yep, I got it tonight
and just wanted to analyze it. Will see how it fits my
tables ;-) I'll let
you know privately.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:55:37 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aero downforce
>How about stealth? does the aero aids perform
any useful function, like
>downforce? or are they all look and no go?
maybe the designers figured
nobody
>would need them with 55mph speed
limit (they were designing these cars in
>late '80's)
I can't
speak for the stealth, but with help from a neighbor who is
a
retired
aerodynamicist, I calculated that the down force created by my
1995
VR-4 was approximately 158 pounds at 150 mph, (deployed, of
course).
So unless you run in some really fast contests, I doubt you'll
notice it's
effect. I have made no calculations as to the effect of the
front air-dam.
In fact, I don't think I know
how.
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:12:59 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aero downforce
>>I was hoping to roam the Autobahns with my
stealth next year. Am I
>doomed? >anyone with experience?
I
traveled the German Autobahns for seven years; in my experience,
none of
their curves are tight enough so that you would benefit from
greater
downforce, unless you are doing over 200 mph. This point
is based on
my experience with rental cars which would not exceed
145
mph.
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:19:19 -0500
From: "Edwin Kaiming Shaw" <
seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheels
Anyone knwo where i can find the specs, offset, size et cetera of
a 17'
wheel from a 98 3000GT, I want a new set of Focal F5's but I need to
know
the specific offset, and sizing of it all, THanks to all who replies.
THe
car is a 1998 3000GT SL with factory 17 inch chrome rims, tire size
is
245.45 zr17. Oh yeah anyone know the differencs in the tire rating say
a
Z-Rated versus an H-Rated. I am thinking about getting the new
Scorcher
T/A's but they only come in H-Rated. Any
suggestions?
Edwin
98 Pearlized White 3000GT SL
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:24:35 EST
From:
Muratokcu@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Aero downforce
Thank you all for the input.
Cars with poor
aerodynamics create a lift at speed, remember the profile of a
car is a huge
aerofoil, capable of great lift. This lift is responsible for
instability at
higher speeds.
Spoilers in production cars are usually designed for
moderate downforce, in
the range of few 100 lb., Max, because this downforce
is gained at the
expense of significant drag.
From the responses, I
deduct that Stealth T/T is not known to loose stability
at speed. I am glad
to hear that.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:18:09 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cryogenics (on topic)
>an oak tree in a tropical storm.
Although the oak may be considered
>stronger it is also more likely to be
toppled than the bamboo. Up to a
>point the bamboo will bend and
return to shape undamaged. An oak will
>simply break once it has met
a certain level of force.
>
I do remember reading in one of my Hot Rod
mags about gears for drag racing
being different than street gears. To
my amazement, I learned that drag
gears are
actually softer so they can
deform under large shock loads and not break,
while a street
gear is made
harder and less pliable to resist frictional wear. So, harder
may not
be the answer
for pieces that are under torsional stresses.
Sam 95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:15:38 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
> Click on them.
There's
some interesting information in those GIF files... Seems to support what
was said by myself and others that removing the harmonic balancer from the crank
is a bad idea. I knew it was already, but this shows it in graphic format
so it is easier to understand the forces involved. Good info!
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 02:55:26 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels
- -----Original Message-----From: Edwin Kaiming Shaw
<
seawulf@sgi.net>
>Anyone know
where i can find the specs, offset, size et cetera of a
17'
>wheel from
a 98 3000GT, I want a new set of Focal F5's but I need
to know
>the
specific offset, and sizing of it all, THanks to all who
replies.
THe
>car is a 1998 3000GT SL with factory 17 inch chrome rims, tire
size
is
>245.45 zr17. Oh yeah anyone know the differencs in the tire
rating
say a
>Z-Rated versus an H-Rated. I am thinking about getting
the new
Scorcher
>T/A's but they only come in H-Rated. Any
suggestions?
BIG difference between the capabilities of H-rated and
150 mph+
Z-rated tires. You can get chapter and verse on what ratings
mean
at Tire Rack,
www.tirerack.com
. Other listmembers will help you
with spacings...
Admin
Warning: PLEASE don't cross-post to the Team3S list and other
lists in
the same message! It's against our rules, screws up the
software and
causes bounced messages. Send separate messages to
separate
lists!!!
And anyone hitting 'reply to all' to his message, please
remove
Dragnet's and Starnet's address from the "TO:" line so I
don't have
to eat bounced messages all day...
Thanks.
Forrest
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is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
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