--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #331
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
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Team3S Digest Tuesday,
November 9 1999 Volume 01 : Number
331
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 00:44:31 EST
From:
Cw7781@aol.comSubject: Team3S: active aero
wing for sale
hi!
while on this subject..i have a factory green 95 VR4
wing for sale..
it's in excellent condition..no motor..
E-mail me
privately .
Thanks
Clint
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Nov 1999 23:28:37 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aero downforce
- -----Original Message-----From:
Muratokcu@aol.com<
Muratokcu@aol.com>
>How about
Stealth? does the aero aids perform any useful
function,
like
>downforce? or are they all look and no go? maybe the
designers
figured nobody
>would need them with 55mph speed limit (they
were designing these
cars in
>late '80's)
>I was hoping to roam
the Autobahns with my stealth next year. Am I
doomed? >anyone with
experience?
The Stealth "Taco-style" wing adds ~100 lbs of
downforce and is as
effective as any other wing out there until you're well
past 100...
I don't think they'd put in a speedo that goes halfway to 200mph
if
the car were designed for 55. :-) But I must say that
without
active effects, my Stealth gets pretty squirrely at around 135
(I
won't go faster) while the Mitsus can stay put at 170+. You'll
see
quite a few other "Taco" style wings on certain models of
another
kind of car that frequents the Autobahn. I think it's called
a
Porsche!? :-) But if you're planning to go over 140 in
your
Stealth (which is very likely), you may want to consider a
ground
effects package...
By the time Team3S "Autobahn
Denizens" Roger, Jim, and Mikael get
through with your car, you'll
probably be beating up on the
competition pretty
regularly!
FYI: The Stealth was being RE-designed by the late
80's, from the
Chrysler concept car designed in the early 80's, built and
shown
around '85/'86, originally called the Intrepid" (no
relation). By
the late 80's, they had Mitsu on board to build the car
for them so
it wouldn't break... With all of Mitsu's racing experience
through
the years, I'm sure they wouldn't have built the Stealth with
an
ineffective spoiler. After all, their name was proudly in
the
Stealth ads too, "Designed by Chrysler, Built by
Mitsubishi".
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 01:35:39 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: the honeycomb shtuff :)
Hi Benson,
>When the car
sat off for a long
>time (as in over-night), when I would get in to drive
the car, no matter
>what gear I started out in (meaning either 1st, or
reverse), unless I
>applied a ton of gas (as in getting to about 5000
rpms), the car would
start
>to choke and almost stall right as the gear
was engaging as I let up on the
>clutch. But almost immediately
after I drove for about 5 seconds, it
>wouldn't do that again (it was as
if the ECU had to quickly re-learn the
>air-flow or something).
I
guess it is one of those "unexplainable" things which happen. :) I
have to
agree that it might be the ECU re learning. I have had that happen to
me
once but it was fine after that first inccident. That's why I called
it
unexplainable.
>It will do that same problem until the engine
has
>warmed up, and then it disappears (which isn't a problem really,
because I
>always warm my car in the cold weather).
>It has never
done that since,
I warm my engine up too. The problem I face is that
after I warm the car up
and drive of....the first light I meet down the hill
almost always causes my
car to stall. I thought at first it was the TPS or a
faulty throttle
body...but nah!!! I spoke with my mechanic today and he told
me that those
honey combs are really important and that was probably why my
car could not
maintain idle. U know..it is best (regardless of whether the
3000 is turbo
or non turbo) to keep those honey combs in place. At least
that's what I
feel. When the weather gets colder, the car acts up even more,
especially
when the car is "luke warm."
>except for now
that
>it's getting colder. >
>But that's the only problem
I've experienced after the K&N, but never a
>problem with the
idle. Any ideas what this is?
I don't know....my worry is that this
could be a pre-cursor to an idle link
event...ie, all this could culminate in
a fluctuating idle in the long-run.
When I punched my honey combs out, I
experienced nothing at first with my
car and as months progressed I began to
feel that something was not
right...by that time I had forgotten all about
those honeycombs. Anyway, it
is only just recently which this topic was
brought up ...which made me
understand better the purpose of those honey
combs. I wll experiment with a
new MAF unit and see what happens. If my idle
problem goes away then HURRAY!
Question for u and all: My mechanic said
that the missing honey combs could
be also linked to the fact that I am
constantly running too rich...and
fouling my plugs; makes any sense? Plugs
are currently NGKS gapped at 0.035.
:)
Later Benson and take
care.
Julian Ng
94 Pearl White Veilside VR4
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell <
benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 08, 1999 1:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: the honeycomb shtuff
:)
>> Hope this helps ...and Benson please check take note on
when u removed
>those
>> honey combs as if your idle begins to
fluctuate during cold temperatures
>or
>> at any period of
time..then u know u have been pulled into "The Storm
of
>the
>> Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic
there)
>
>
>Well I have a '95 non-turbo 3000 so that might be
making a difference. The
>car has never had a problem idling after
putting the K&N back on, but there
>was one pecular problem that did
happen. It took about 2 weeks or so for
the car to stop
>doing
that all together, so I guess the ECU was just learning and
adjusting
>over that time period. >
>
>Latuh fuh
U,
>Benson
>
benson@2015.com>
>"-Do you
ever have second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 01:39:12 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Pardon my
ignorance Roger,
But how do u do that? I mean the original honey combs..i
remember seem to be
pretty thick. If I were to go to a hardware shop and fine
a mesh material,
would it actually serve the same purpose as those honey
combs?
How would we attach the mesh...my fear is that it might get sucked
into the
wrong place...do i make sense?
Thanks
Julian Ng
94
Pearl White GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 08, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New
To List/Few Questions..
>Guys, wait before buying a new MAF as
maybe a simple mesh of stainless
steel
>will help. This is what the
MAFs have in the Camaro/Firebird/Corvettes. If
>you removed the front
plastic part, you may be able to secure such a mesh
>behind it and it
should straigthen the flow just enough. The sensor is in
>the middle part
and it is maybe enough just to insert a screen there. You
>can try
different mesh sizes and you'll notice pretty fast how good
the
idle
>is. Just make sure to drive the car a little to let it learn
until it idles
>correctly.
>
>Good
luck,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>> Hope this helps
...and Benson please check take note on when u removed
>those
>>
honey combs as if your idle begins to fluctuate during cold
temperatures
>or
>> at any period of time..then u know u have
been pulled into "The Storm of
>the
>> Century" (Sorry
got a bit dramatic there)
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:30:57 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Aero downforce
Benson...
I'm sure the design was
intended to function at higher speeds, because
that's when it's needed. You
don't want the drag at the dragstrip. It also
provides visibility in the
rear, clearance in the front, not to mention the
"tech toy" value
that appeals to many.
Fixed units could work in the rear, if you don't
mind having a spoiler
blocking your view at all times. Won't work for the
front, where there's
only a couple inches of clearance when the air dam is
down. It would be
nearly impossible to clear any speed bump, driveway,
etc.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Benson "elmagoo" Russell [
mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Monday,
November 08, 1999 8:04 PM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S: Aero
downforce
OK, so here's an idea (I dunno if it's any good mind you, which
is why I'm
asking about it here :). Wouldn't it just be better to get a
new spoiler
(or modify the original) and permanently position it so that it's
in the
same position as the active aero is when you're traveling fast enough
that
it makes a difference, get an air-damm, and then dump the actual system
to
save the weight? Or would this cause problems when going at lower
speeds or
accelerating?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.comFor subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:36:33 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Ignition
and knock
Hi,
Today I talked to a engine builder here in
Stockholm, he is specialized in
turbo rally cars.
I asked if he had
any ideas about why our cars knock at such low boost, he
replied that it can
ofcourse be a bad engine construction but he didn't
think that this was the
case since Mitsu usually makes good internals (he
works allot with the Lancer
Evo)
His suggestion was to change engine management system to a system
that has
higher resolution crankshaft trigger, this will result in a more
precise
ignition timing and that will help allot against knock.(i.e
Electromotive
have 60 points and our stock system have 3 points plus cam
sensor)
What do you guys think about this??? Does it make
sense?
/Mikael
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 10:34:40 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <
jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Missing & Check engine????
Matt,
I've
tried that and it didn't work. It only worked on my
dodge caravan with
the Mitsubishi engine. I had to do the
ignition thing 3 times on that
car, and then I got the code
from the light. Anwyay, I think it's pin
1 to ground but don't
quote me on that. I told Trent I'll look it up
tonight, coz I
definitely wrote it down. Besides, it's in the repair
manual too.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla,
K&N, and Magnecors
Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> >
Now, Jeff suggested that I pull the codes from the ECU to
> > determine
exactly what the problem is. I am all for this
> > because I have
taken everything apart 3 times now!
> > However he wasn't sure exactly
which pin to ground to
> > make the check engine light flash the
code. Could someone
> > please help me with this? I have a
95 RT TT. I checked
> > and it had the big 16 pin OBD
connector.
>
> I think you can actually have it flash the codes on
the
> check engine light. If it is possible on these cars,
you
> do the following with the ignition key:
>
> on
>
off
> on
> off
> on
>
> ...all within 5
seconds. You don't have to start the car, just toggle the key. It
should flash out the codes for you after the sequence is entered. Works on
2G Eclipse/Talons and other Mitsu ECU cars like the Dodge Avenger. Haven't
tried it on my 3000, but it has worked on other modern Mitsu-ECU cars.
Give it a try...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:54:11 -0800
From: "Nav Moondi" <
moondin@megahits.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ** Vegas : the retrospective!! **
Woo Hoo!. What a
blast this weekend!!!
Lesse here? Lots of dancing, lots of
drinking, drag-racing
on the Strip, Laughing our asses off at the video at
Quincy's,
riding the "big-shot" at the Stratosphere, and the
coaster at
New York, New York, terrorizing the locals at the Luxor at
4am,
Body Shots, Visiting the friendly neighbourhood strip clubs,
Driving back to LA at 95mph *racing!* for 2 hours with a highway
trooper
(no kiddin'!) !!, lots of food, not much gambling, rollerblading
(and
falling!), go-kart racing!, Justin's "ladies, look at my nipples!",
and good ol' Dan (the man of all men) climbing a rock mountain!
Yes folks we did ALL that in one weekend, plus a whole lot
more!
Monica is right, if you didn't come because of some dorky lame
excuse, you ARE LOSERS!! We had an absolute RIOT!!! all this
weekend, no
beating aroudn the bush! We were dancing at the
Beach til almost
4am!! Courtney, shame on you!!!! You Wimp!
Got back Sunday
night, completely exhausted. What memories!
Vegas *anytime*!
baby is all I can say!!!
- -= nav =-
"Problems in this
world: Ozone Layer, Hunger, Environment, Logging,
Fat men in speedos in
France..."
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:57:24 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re Aero
downforce
- -Bob Forrest wrote:
snip
FYI: The
Stealth was being RE-designed by the late 80's, from the
Chrysler concept car
designed in the early 80's, built and shown
around '85/'86, originally called
the Intrepid" (no relation). By
the late 80's, they had Mitsu on
board to build the car for them so
it wouldn't break... With all of
Mitsu's racing experience through
the years, I'm sure they wouldn't have
built the Stealth with an
ineffective spoiler. After all, their name
was proudly in the
Stealth ads too, "Designed by Chrysler, Built by
Mitsubishi".
As an additional comment to the design features of the
wings on these
cars....it is obvious from the recessed arc behind the back
windows on both,
that the original wing design was for the Stealth type wing.
The Stealth
wing compliments the arc on this recessed portion perfectly. That
is, the
recess and the wing were obviously designed with each other in
mind. I
suspect Mitsu opted to depart with it's wing choice for: 1)
distinctness
from it's twin, and 2) because mechanization of the active aero
of their
design choice was more easily achieved given the dynamics of the
car. This
advantage, however, has the slight design clash with the recessed
arc that
the less flamboyant Stealth wing compliments so
well.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:11:31 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S:
How to Read Diagnostic Codes
> I've tried that and
it didn't work. It only worked on my
> dodge caravan with the
Mitsubishi engine. I had to do the
> ignition thing 3 times on that
car, and then I got the code
> from the light. Anwyay, I think it's
pin 1 to ground but don't
> quote me on that. I told Trent I'll
look it up tonight, coz I
> definitely wrote it down. Besides, it's
in the repair manual too.
Here's the info:
Up to 1993
models:
Connect analog voltmeter to top right pin (ground) of diagnostic
test connector and to the bottom left pin (diagnostic output terminal).
This is the orientation when the "clip" side is on the left side of
the connector: (read these with a fixed-width font, like Courier to
preserve the spacing)
- --+--
| |G|
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
| |
|
+-+-+
| | |
| +-+
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
|T|
|
+-+-+
"G" is the ground, and "T" is the test
connection. Note the two "joined" connector cells on the left
side - that is how to determine the correct orientation of the connector.
It should have the two linked cells on the left side. I suppose flipping
the diagram results in the connections being in the same place, so the
orientation shouldn't matter that much.
94 and up models:
-
-------------------------------
\ | 1| 2| 3| 4| 5| 6| 7| 8|
/
\ +--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+ /
\|
9|10|11|12|13|14|15|16|/
+-----------------------+
XXX
The ground terminal(s) are pins 4 and 5. The diagnostic output
terminal is pin 13.
Codes are flashed by a presence of voltage indicating
"on" and lack of voltage indicating "off". A code
starts with an "off" state, then long "on" flashes for the
first digit, then short "on" flashes for the second digit. You
may get multiple codes, which will flash in increasing sequence. The
sequence will repeat after each series. Easiest way to read these are with
a 12V light bulb (like an instrument cluster lamp), hooked up to a couple wires
which are inserted in the test connector.
Codes:
long ON -
ECU
11 - O2 sensor (or left bank O2, 94 and later CA model)
12 - Volume
air flow sensor
13 - Intake air temp sensor
14 - Throttle position
sensor
21 - Coolant temp sensor
22 - Crankshaft position sensor
23 -
Camshaft position sensor
24 - Vehicle speed sensor
25 - Barometric
pressure sensor
31 - Knock sensor
36 - Ignition timing adjustment signal
(DOHC)
39 - O2 sensor (right bank O2 on 94 and later CA models)
41 - Fuel
injector
43 - EGR (CA - Non-turbo, turbo)
44 - Ignition coil, ignition
power transistor (1-4 cylinder)
52 - Ignition coil, power transistor (2-5
cylinder)
53 - Ignition coil, power transistor (3-5 cylinder)
59 - Left
bank heated O2 sensor (rear) CA from 94 up
61 - Cable from transaxle control
module for transmission
of torque reduction signal
(A/T only)
62 - Induction control valve position sensor (non-turbo)
69 -
Right bank heated O2 sensor (rear) CA from 94 up
Continuous waver (on,
off, on, off...) - Normal state, no codes.
...for the Archives.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 11:04:52 -0500
From: Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S turbos
At 11:27 AM 11/8/99 -0600,
Matt Jannusch wrote:
>I forgot who asked, but I don't think you could just
drop in a cartridge
>from a DSM auto tranny turbo for the rear
turbo. I think the vanes on the
>compressor and exhaust side wheel
would also need to be reversed since the
>flow through both sides is
reversed. You could look in the intake side of
>the rear turbo and
see if it matches the front side. If that's reversed,
>you know you
are in trouble.
My friend has a pair of 13g (automatic 1st gen Talon)
compressor wheels on
his factory 9b units and his car flies. He did
not have to reverse anything.
>Interesting idea
though... Maybe you could get the internals for the
>front side
turbo, and somehow acquire a reversed one for the rear. Or
>just
buy a rear 13G and save a ton of money.
see above.
Rick
94
R/T TT
Cartech intercoolers
13g turbos
HKS
exh
==============================================================
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:50:26 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AFM Mesh..end results
The mesh in the AFM serves in what seems to
be some cases a true purpose, and
maybe in others...a half purpose.
I
honestly wouldnt like to see someone mess with a $700 AFM without GOOD
need.
IMHO, if it needs messed with at all, put in a VPC and just
replace it.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:49:14 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Aero downforce
But I must say that without
> active effects, my
Stealth gets pretty squirrely at around 135 (I
> won't go faster) while
the Mitsus can stay put at 170+. You'll see
> quite a few other
"Taco" style wings on certain models of another
> kind of car
that frequents the Autobahn. I think it's called a
> Porsche!?
:-) But if you're planning to go over 140 in your
> Stealth (which
is very likely), you may want to consider a ground
> effects
package...
====================================================
Hmmmmm
!! I had my 93 stealth TT up to 145 or so before the passenger
seat
speed limiter kicked in and it felt solid as a rock. I would have
no
problem taking it much farther.
PS. this run was before my
suspension mods.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
--- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
---
GC/Eibach 600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber
plate
Yokohama AVS sport
255x40x17
Porsch/Brembo [ big red ] brakes --- KVR 315mm
rotors
Roadrace engineering rear strut
tower
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:08:30 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero
downforce
I n this case, I suspect the difference in the performance at
high speed in
Bob's and Jim's cars (both Stealths) is the difference in the
two cars: one
is a NA base model and the other is a TT. There are some
inherent features
to the TT (AWD, AWS, ECS, etc) that would allow it to
perform better at
higher speeds.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 14:30:01 EST
From:
ANguyen999@aol.comSubject: Team3S: jet
chips?
on their website JetChips claims that their chips can increase hp
by 10-30 on our cars (nonturbo and turbo). does anyone have any experience
with them? is this a worthwhile purchase? their site
www.jetchip.com thanks,
andy
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 14:42:39 EST
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
95VR-4 won't crank!!
Okay, I get up and go out to get to my
job interview on time, I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing noise
come from around the shift nob and dash
area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times and now
all
I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and a
clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping maybee
some type of solenoid or
switch went out. I'll be checking it
out.
Any
suggestions??
thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:49:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
Dead battery -- possibly dead
alternator. Very simple.
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Tue, 9 Nov 1999
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
Okay, I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time, I turn
the
> key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob
and dash
> area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times and now
> all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area,
and a
> clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping maybee
> some type of solenoid
or switch went out. I'll be checking
it out.
> Any
suggestions??
thanks.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:48:17 -0800
From: Todd Leveck <
todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
Your battery is
dead!!!
todd
93 vr4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.com [
mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 09, 1999 11:43 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
Okay, I get up and go out to get
to my job interview on time, I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing
noise come from around the shift nob and dash
area, and the car
doesn't crank. So I tried a few more times and now
all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and
a
clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping
maybee
some type of solenoid or
switch went out. I'll be checking it
out.
Any suggestions??
thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:09:39 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
- -----Original Message-----From:
MitsuVR41@aol.com<
MitsuVR41@aol.com>
>Okay, I
get up and go out to get to my job interview on time, I
turn
the
>key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift
nob
and dash
>area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times
and
now
>all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the
starter
area, and a
>clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm
hoping maybee
>some type of solenoid
or switch went out. I'll be
checking
it out.
>Any
suggestions??
thanks.
Sounds like a dead battery, but it could be a loose
battery
connection- smack the terminals a couple of times with a
(non-metal)
mallet and try again. Check all possible lights you might
have left
on (glove box, map lights) and charge the battery if you've got
a
charger. If it's still making noise, it could be the starter
(gone
through any puddles lately?). I guess maybe the alternator,
too.
Good luck,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 21:24:16 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <
mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aero downforce
> Jim Matthews, our European Admin in
Germany, is off to Bavaria at the moment
> or he'd likely respond
personally on his experiences on the Autobahns there
> in his Stealth TT.
He's had no probs taking it to the max! However, the
> Stealth wing
and front air dam are not quite as effective at light speed for
>
stabilization purposes, as the Mitsu's rear adjustable wing and front
>
adjustable dam.
Well I have had my '95 Stealth RT TT up to 155 mph on the
speedo here in Germany. I
have not gone faster because my tires are a
little thin, however, that will be fixed
this week.:) Anyway, at 140
plus I have not noticed the car wanting to "float" or loose
control
in any way. However, I have noticed that at about 120 mph the windows
"pop"
(i.e. the pressure differential actually pulls the door
windows away from the
gasketing). Between that and the sunroof the
noise is VERY loud. This probably
explains why the euro-VR4 does not
have a sunroof option. Above 150 the road noise is
very loud and with
18" rims it is very rough. However, at about 155 mph the
windshield
wipers start to flutter, and almost look like they are going to
fly off.
My experiences on unlimited speed limit road is
that the Stealth is very comfortable
at about 100 mph. Anymore and the
road noise really starts to get loud. However, I do
tend to go about
110-125 mph most of the time where there is no speed limit. The
biggest
problem with this is stopping. If you have to go from 130 to 0 mph the
stock
brakes overheat. They can withstand one stop, but you will have
to baby them for about
five minutes before they are back to
normal.
Mike C. (saving for a brake upgrade)
0018
'95 Stealth
RT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:33:08 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
95VR-4 won't crank!!
Check your battery connections for starters.
Could be as simple as that.
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.com <
MitsuVR41@aol.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:57 AM
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't
crank!!
>Okay, I get up and go out to get to my job
interview on time, I turn the
>key, and I hear this buzzing noise
come from around the shift nob and dash
>area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times and
now
>all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter
area, and
a
>clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping
maybee
>some type of solenoid
or switch went out. I'll be checking
it out.
>Any suggestions??
thanks.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:36:51 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: jet
chips?
What's interesting at this site is that they give different hp
increases
with their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt. Anyone care to
wager an
explanation as to why this is ;-)
Best
Darc
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
ANguyen999@aol.com <
ANguyen999@aol.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: jet
chips?
>on their website JetChips claims that their chips can
increase hp by 10-30
on our cars (nonturbo and turbo). does anyone have
any experience with
them? is this a worthwhile purchase? their
site
www.jetchip.com>
>thanks,
>andy
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:40:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: jet chips?
Not sure, but that worries me.. :)
- --Matt
Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
> What's interesting at this site is that they give
different hp increases
> with their product for the Stealth vs
3000gt. Anyone care to wager an
> explanation as to why this is
;-)
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: ANguyen999@aol.com <
ANguyen999@aol.com>
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:33 AM
> Subject: Team3S: jet
chips?
>
>
> >on their website JetChips claims that their
chips can increase hp by 10-30
> on our cars (nonturbo and turbo).
does anyone have any experience with
> them? is this a worthwhile
purchase? their site www.jetchip.com
> >
>
>thanks,
> >andy
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:12:31 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
My Predator goes dead within two
weeks if I don't keep a charger on it.
Exactly the same symptom. Could be a
loose cable or corroded connection as
well.
Hope you didn't miss the
job interview.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.com
[
mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:43 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
Okay, I get up and go out to get
to my job interview on time, I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing
noise come from around the shift nob and dash
area, and the car
doesn't crank. So I tried a few more times and now
all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and
a
clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping
maybee
some type of solenoid or
switch went out. I'll be checking it
out.
Any suggestions??
thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:59:07 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Warning : jet chips?
Guys,
Please ALWAYS snip the
unimportant part of the message as the member who are
interested in the topic
have already read them !
> Not sure, but that worries me..
:)
Also, we do not accept the chatting style of the the messages we have
seen
lately. Therefore please replay to the list with information that is of
a
value for everyone or reply privately.
For more information please
reread the rules !
Thanks,
Roger for the Admins
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:14:36 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Honey
Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
> Pardon my ignorance
Roger,
> But how do u do that?
No ignorance at all ;-)
>
I mean the original honey combs..i remember seem to be
> pretty thick. If
I were to go to a hardware shop and fine a mesh material,
> would it
actually serve the same purpose as those honey combs?
The idea of the
honeycombs is to straighten the air (as already told by
others) and to
smoothen it out. As I mentioned, the MAF in the Camaros do
have such a thin
mesh infront of the hot wires. Removing it causes the car
to idle less good
but some say removing the screen gives mroe power. Well,
this is not proven
:)
> How would we attach the mesh...my fear is that it might get
sucked into
the
> wrong place...do i make sense?
Yes, sure, you
definitely have to cut something out that fits behind the
plastic part that
is removeable. I didn't thought further than just using a
cheap screen with
only the area that is needed for the air flow sensor. It's
just an idea and
you may get it further. I don't need it as I already have
an ARC MAF kit
installed :-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:24:21 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: jet chips?
> What's interesting at this site is that they give
different hp increases
> with their product for the Stealth vs
3000gt. Anyone care to wager an
> explanation as to why this is
;-)
Ok guys, we ALL KNOW that our cars cannot be tuned up by a simple
chip. This
is because our ECU do not have chips inside ! The only solution is
a
daughter board and this runs for at least $750.
Other tuners do some
simple modifications like soldering a small resistor to
the stock boost
solenoid activating line. This will close the valve later
than normal,
causing a higher overall boost. This works but is still too
expensive because
it still does nothing else than bleeding the pressure in
the actuator
lines.
IMHO, Chips should give anyone these chips for free, let them dyno
test it
(a NA car, or they send me the chip and I dyno it here on the AWD)
and if it
works I'm sure some will buy them. But to be honest .... they only
sell a
sticker and a resistor, nothing else.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 14:10:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ground cam's...
Today I poped open the oil cap on my valve cover
and looked in.. the first
part (tooth? section? whatever it is.. the raised
part) looks GREAT.. but
the rest (as far in as I can see) looks like osmeone
took a sandblaster to
it!! Its GROUND TO HELL! I bought a warentee with the
car, but the mitsu
dealer (at least w/o taking it apart andl ooking at it)
says it'll
probably be considered a "wear" item.. which means that
they wont cover
it.. (kind of like a clutch or brakes). Right now the car
runs fine but i
have a few questions.. 1, could this be giving me less power
than I should
have? 2) how hard are they to replace? how much
money does it cost for
good upgraded cams? Is it a job I can do myself?
3) Should I even worry
about it, or just drive on these until they die? 4)
shoudl I be able to
get mitsu (fyi, its a GM warentee) to cover the cams?
Thanks..
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:14:54 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition and knock
> I asked if he had any ideas about why our
cars knock at such low boost, he
> replied that it can ofcourse be a bad
engine construction but he didn't
> think that this was the case since
Mitsu usually makes good internals (he
> works allot with the Lancer
Evo)
Well, there is a big difference : we have two 3-cylinder engines
connected
together. A V8 knocks much less as well does an inline engine. But
the gain
is a lightweight, compact engine with still plenty of
power.
> His suggestion was to change engine management system to a
system that has
> higher resolution crankshaft trigger, this will result
in a more precise
> ignition timing and that will help allot against
knock.(i.e Electromotive
> have 60 points and our stock system have 3
points plus cam sensor)
And what would be the gain then ? I'm currently
run a G-Force ECU with a
little more timing than a stock California car. The
datalogs showed that the
timing was less than with my stock EU ECU and there
was significantly less
knock ... almost no knock ! I do not have enough money
to go to the dyno day
by day and run the new ECU. but I do not feel a lot of
difference in powere
due to the less advanced timing. Maybe this is the
trick, although I think
that this may rise EGT too.
The high
resolution of the electromotice crankshaft sensor is good as it is
possible
to set the timign more accurately. But I'm sure even only the
electromotive
stuff with its coisl and the engergy sent to the plugs will
solve the most of
the ignition problems and therefore also some of the
detonation and knock
stuff.
Just to test the thing out is a little to expensive for me
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:23:53 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ground cam's...
> the rest (as far in as I can see) looks like
osmeone took a sandblaster to
> it!! Its GROUND TO HELL! I bought a
warentee with the car, but the mitsu
> dealer (at least w/o taking it
apart andl ooking at it) says it'll
> probably be considered a
"wear" item.. which means that they wont cover
> it.. (kind of
like a clutch or brakes).
Don't worry, this is the output camshaft you
are seeing and there is only a
little wear and they have to be totally blank
! You cann pul lthe valve
cover and inspect both camshafts and look if one or
more have strange signs
of abnormal wear. But this is very
seldom.
> 1, could this be giving me less power than I should
have?
no problem
> 2) how hard are they to replace? how much
money does it cost for
> good upgraded cams?
There are only custom cams
available and then you shoudl also use other
parts as well as lightweight
valves, ported heads, etc.
> 3) Should I even worry about it, or
just drive on these until they die?
Nahhh, forget them and drive the car.
Nothing to worry unless you have very
strange signs or even a broken part of
the camshaft or metallic particles
under the
valvecover.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.htmlFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 18:28:27 EST
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.comSubject: Team3S: VR-4
wont crank pt. 2
Okay, the battery is not dead. Everything in
the car still has power. The
alarm still works, lights,
etc.... The only electrical things that
dont' work
are the stereo, and the power mirrors.
The MFI relay switch
is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where
the MFI relay switch
would cause a starting problem or would it? The
starter motor has acutally
turned on, but nothing else happend,
every thing else just seemed dead.
The battery I have is a
competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery, so I'd
hope it would have
enough juice, it is brand new. I'm still
troubleshooting here. when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the MFI
and starter
relays.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 15:49:17 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2
This is another problem that I too am
trying to solve. I will hear a click when
I turn over the key.
The car will start eventually, but sometimes it takes
10-20 tries. It
also seems to be getting worse :(. I have had the problem with
my old
and new starter, old and new battery, old and new starter relay, old and
new
battery cable connectors. The clutch switch seems fine as I always hear
the
click when it is depressed. About the only thing I haven't replaced
is the
alarm relay in the starter circuit. Another possibility might be
my aftermarket
alarm if it has a kill switch. The battery cables have
no corrosion on the
battery end, but I'll check the other end for good
connections. I will also
measure voltage at the battery and the starter
when the key is turned.
Good luck to both of us!
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
>
Okay, the battery is not dead. Everything in the car still has
power. The
> alarm still works, lights,
etc.... The only electrical things that
> dont'
work are the stereo, and the power
mirrors. The MFI relay switch
>
is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay
switch
> would cause a starting problem or would it? The starter
motor has acutally
> turned on, but nothing else happend,
every thing else just seemed dead.
> The battery I have is a competition
1000 cold cranking amp battery, so I'd
> hope it would have enough
juice, it is brand new. I'm still
>
troubleshooting here. when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the MFI and
starter
> relays.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm-
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 15:48:11 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 wont crank pt. 2
The only way to be sure if you have enough battery
power is with a voltmeter.
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals [ NOT
at the cable connectors ],
and have someone attempt to start the car ---- the
voltage should stay up
around 10 or 11 volts. If the voltage drops down to 8
volts or so you have a
dead battery. If the battery voltage stays up then
measure the voltage at the
cables, if the voltage drops low it would indicate
a corroded battery terminal.
If it remains high then you have a problem
elsewhere.
PS. a hydrometer can also be used to check charge on a
battery, they cost
a few bucks at your local parts store but they wont detect
corroded cables.
PPS. some of the low power items will work when the
battery is low because
they don't require high current from the battery. I
would however expect the
lights to be dim.
Jim
Berry
===========================================================
,
the battery is not dead. Everything in the car still has power. The
> alarm still works, lights, etc....
The only electrical things that
> dont' work are the stereo, and the
power mirrors. The MFI relay switch
> is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay
switch
> would cause a starting problem or would it? The starter
motor has acutally
> turned on, but nothing else happend,
every thing else just seemed dead.
> The battery I have is a
competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery, so I'd
> hope it would
have enough juice, it is brand new. I'm still
> troubleshooting here. when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the
MFI and starter
> relays.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:20:32 -0500
From: "SkoobY" <
pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2
Make that three of us...
my radio does
work, as well as everything else in the car, but i get nothing
but that
annoying click (and buzz if you hold the key) for 5-10 turns of
the
key...
from what you replaced, it doesnt seem like the starter... what
could it
be??
Carlos
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
<
MitsuVR41@aol.com>
Cc: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt.
2
> This is another problem that I too am trying to solve. I
will hear a
click when
> I turn over the key. The car will start
eventually, but sometimes it
takes
> 10-20 tries. It also seems
to be getting worse :(. I have had the
problem with
> my old and
new starter, old and new battery, old and new starter relay,
old and
>
new battery cable connectors. The clutch switch seems fine as I
always
hear the
> click when it is depressed. About the only
thing I haven't replaced is
the
> alarm relay in the starter
circuit. Another possibility might be my
aftermarket
> alarm if
it has a kill switch. The battery cables have no corrosion
on
the
> battery end, but I'll check the other end for good
connections. I will
also
> measure voltage at the battery and the
starter when the key is turned.
>
> Good luck to both of
us!
>
>
MitsuVR41@aol.com
wrote:
> >
> > Okay, the battery is not dead.
Everything in the car still has power.
The
> > alarm still
works, lights, etc.... The only electrical
things that
> > dont' work are the stereo, and the power
mirrors. The MFI
relay
switch
> > is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see
where the MFI relay
switch
> > would cause a starting problem or
would it? The starter motor has
acutally
> > turned on,
but nothing else happend, every thing else just seemed
dead.
>
> The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery,
so
I'd
> > hope it would have enough juice, it is brand
new. I'm still
> > troubleshooting here.
when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the MFI and
starter
> >
relays.
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
>
--
> I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:13:18 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 wont crank pt. 2
You can bypass the clutch switch just by unplugging
one of the wires
to the microswitch [ the switch opens when the clutch is
depressed ]
There are two switches, one when you first depress the clutch [
cruse
control ] and one when the clutch is fully depressed [ interlock
] make
sure you unplug the right one. A word of caution ---- with the
interlock
removed you can start the car in gear.
Jim
Berry
> . The clutch switch seems fine as I always hear
the
> click when it is depressed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:22:10 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Hi
Roger,
Thanks for replying. I spoke to Brian before about the ARC
kit.....
Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster
flow. Will
that be sufficient to cure the problem or would the upgraded MAF
do more
damage to my car. My question is do I have to buy also the ARC unit
too in
order for the upgraded MAF unit to work?
I must call Brian
again to ask him...real nice guy.
Later
Julian
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New
To List/Few Questions..
>> Pardon my ignorance
Roger,
>> But how do u do that?
>
>No ignorance at all
;-)
>
>> I mean the original honey combs..i remember seem to
be
>> pretty thick. If I were to go to a hardware shop and fine a
mesh
material,
>> would it actually serve the same purpose as those
honey combs?
>
>The idea of the honeycombs is to straighten the air
(as already told by
>others) and to smoothen it out. As I mentioned, the
MAF in the Camaros do
>have such a thin mesh infront of the hot wires.
Removing it causes the car
>to idle less good but some say removing the
screen gives mroe power. Well,
>this is not proven :)
>
>>
How would we attach the mesh...my fear is that it might get sucked
into
>the
>> wrong place...do i make sense?
>
>Yes,
sure, you definitely have to cut something out that fits behind
the
>plastic part that is removeable. I didn't thought further than just
using a
>cheap screen with only the area that is needed for the air flow
sensor.
It's
>just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it
as I already have
>an ARC MAF kit installed
:-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 20:29:17 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ARC MAF
>just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it as
I already have
>an ARC MAF kit installed
:-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
Roger, do you like the
ARC MAF? Is it worth $1000 and does it give you any
more
power
alone? How much better is it than a VPC? I went to your
site and I
concluded from your graphs
that knock was not significantly
different, but that you attribute that to
stock injectors. >I am
planning
on getting the 550cc injectors, Supra pump, 15g turbos and some sort
of fuel
computer. I was just going
to get a G-Force because these
will be the extent of my mods as far as
turbos are concerned and
will not
need further adjustment-this is a daily driver and I want no real
lag and
reliable power. However,
cost is all the same, unless I get a stand
alone AFC, but my experience with
the boost controller tells me
I will
always be fooling with it, and that becomes a nuisance. Also, I
need
good mileage and only get
about 300 miles to a tank now! What
is your opinion on this ARC unit, and
how fuel efficient is it
under
normal driving?
Sam 95 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 18:56:57 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC MAF
- --- Sam Shelat <
sshelat@erols.com> wrote:
>
Also, I need
> good mileage and only get
> about 300 miles to a tank
now! What is your opinion
> on this ARC unit, and
> how fuel
efficient is it under
> normal driving?
>
> Sam 95
VR4
>
Hey Sam,
I have the ARC MAF kit + 550s + HKS
pump. Daily
driving is excellent.. virtually like stock.
Fuel
efficiency is also great.. im getting an average of
330 miles to a
tank (same as stock!!)
I'll let Roger and other answer the
technical
questions.. Good Luck!!
George Kuo
'92 RT TT daily
driver
visit my site:
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html=====
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at
http://auctions.yahoo.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:08:47 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Honey Combs
> Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with
the monster flow. Will
> that be sufficient to cure the problem or would
the upgraded MAF do more
> damage to my car. My question is do I have to
buy also the ARC unit too in
> order for the upgraded MAF unit to
work?
You would need the ARC along with the MAF. The upgraded MAF
is a hot-wire
style meter, not Karman-Vortex. The ARC converts and
adjusts the signal
to Karman-style so the ECU can understand it.
I
might also be doing the ARC in spring. Sounds like a good unit for
a
mostly reasonable price.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:09:37 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MAF/Honeycombs explained, FREE TECH MANUAL!
I saw a couple of
posts fly by about removal of honeycombs in the 3/S MAF.
Since knowledge is
power (horsepower? :) I extracted JUST the pages that
explain the MAF
operation in most "Karman Vortex" systems utilized
by
Mitsubishi.
It is in a 110k PDF file at this URL
http://manualcd.dsm.org/dsmgift/Also
at that site is the COMPLETE DSM Tech manual (included on both the 3/S
and
DSM CD's), it's about 19mb, and can be downloaded in 4megabyte chunks,
which
are self extracting (instructions also in a readme file).
Some other
files are also there for customers or people that needed just a
section for
one reason or another, and you are welcome to download them as
well. I
thought I would give something back to the 3/S and DSM community as
a whole,
"free of charge :)". In fact, if anyone needs a section or a
page,
feel free to ask, it only takes me a second!
What does the DSM
tech manual have to do with 3/S cars? A LOT. Think of the
DSMs as your little
brothers and sisters (you know, shorter, smaller,
usually slower :). When it
really comes down to it, they are the same car in
operation, with the 3/S
being the more luxurious of the two, and also having
1 or 2 more of
everything (turbos, plugs, liters, pistons, heads, exhaust
tips, legroom, and
a drum/disc combo in the rear that I didn't expect this
weekend!
:).
The TECH manual explains alot of the voodoo that the car does behind
your
back, and when it puts that smile on your face :)
Oh yes, and the
point is... DON'T remove your honeycombs unless they are
part of a
"BYPASS" chamber, or you are prepared to use a HK$ VPC
which
converts your current Karman system to a MAP (pressure)
system.
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:25:50 EST
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.comSubject: Team3S: VR-4
CRANKS NOW check it out
Okay guys, like I said, I have
a brand new competition series battery with
1000 cold cranking
amps. I hooked a ohm meter/volmeter to it to see if it
was
charged or not. The meter read the battery as having 12 volts
HOWEVER
when I hooked the battery up to the charger, it read
almost dead. I
charged the battery for an hour and
my car then cranked right up. I'm
thinking all of you who
have been having cranking problems, maybee you
should check the cold
cranking amps on your batteries and hook your batteries
up to a charger to
see if our alternators or whatever have kept them full
charge. Like I
said, I have had the same symptoms on two VR-4's and each
time was
related to a new battery that wasn't fully charged. CHECK YOUR
BATTERY
types, age, and
charge! I"m
back and boosting around the
streets. FEELS
GOOD. :) Thanks for
the help.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:39:43 -0500
From: "Kevin" <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question to those who have a Hallman boost controller.
A few
questions.
1. Do you notice quicker spool up times over stock?
2. Do you
have to re-adjust for changing weather conditions?
3. On the web site there
is a picture of the unit. What is the small brass
piece inline on the
long piece of hose? There are two hose clamps on either
side of the
small unit. I think it's an unloader valve, but not sure. (not
I am not
asking about the brass part with the adjuster on it)
4. Do you get a
large amount of overshoot?
5. Any problems that you can see with the
unit?
I have a Blitz SSBC right now, and just want to understand how the
Hallman
system works. They raise some good points on their
website.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com ) and just want to see if any
of it
is true. Basically the wastegate does not open until the boost
pressure
over comes the relief valve, this would lead to the quickest spool
up times.
They claim even better than EBC's.
Thanks,
Kevin
Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.comIf you love
cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead-
------------Still under construction---------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 23:04:27 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Where is Brad Bedell?
I've been trying to contact Brad Bedell for
about two weeks so I can buy a
Big Red brake setup.
He does not
respond.
Anybody have a home phone number or snail mail address?
Please
reply off list if you do to merritt@cedar-rapids.net
If he HAS left us,
does anyone know where I can buy a Brembo kit like Brad's?
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:32:16 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Honey Combs
Thanks for the info Matt. I guess my next
decision is to get either the
entire ARC kit or stick with the traditional
AFC and tune it from there with
the help of friends. :)
So far the
best price for the MAF unit is 250$ +20$ = 270$ from
msrecycling.com. Then we
have Roger's idea which I am still playing around
with. The local Mitsu
dealership wants to sell the MAF unit for 580
bucks!!!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
compared to Tallahassee Mitsu!
Thanks people.
Julian Ng
94 VR4
Seattle
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 7:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Honey
Combs
>> Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with
the monster flow.
Will
>> that be sufficient to cure the problem or
would the upgraded MAF do more
>> damage to my car. My question is do I
have to buy also the ARC unit too
in
>> order for the upgraded MAF
unit to work?
>
>You would need the ARC along with the MAF.
The upgraded MAF is a hot-wire
>style meter, not Karman-Vortex. The
ARC converts and adjusts the signal
>to Karman-style so the ECU can
understand it.
>
>I might also be doing the ARC in spring.
Sounds like a good unit for a
>mostly reasonable
price.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 01:09:28 EST
From:
Muratokcu@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Aero downforce
Thanks for the input Mike, what brand pads/rotors do you
use?
on my other mitsu (starion) I have excellent results with original mitsu
pads
and terrible experience with after-market pads
are mitsu pads for
T/T any good?
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End
of Team3S Digest V1 #331
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