--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #331
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Tuesday, November 9 1999        Volume 01 : Number 331




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 00:44:31 EST
From: Cw7781@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: active aero wing for sale

hi!
while on this subject..i have a factory green 95 VR4 wing for sale..
it's in excellent condition..no motor..
E-mail me privately .
Thanks
Clint
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 23:28:37 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce

- -----Original Message-----From: Muratokcu@aol.com
<Muratokcu@aol.com>
>How about Stealth? does the aero aids perform any useful function,
like
>downforce? or are they all look and no go? maybe the designers
figured nobody
>would need them with 55mph speed limit (they were designing these
cars in
>late '80's)
>I was hoping to roam the Autobahns with my stealth next year. Am I
doomed? >anyone with experience?

The Stealth "Taco-style" wing adds ~100 lbs of downforce and is as
effective as any other wing out there until you're well past 100...
I don't think they'd put in a speedo that goes halfway to 200mph if
the car were designed for 55.  :-)  But I must say that without
active effects, my Stealth gets pretty squirrely at around 135 (I
won't go faster) while the Mitsus can stay put at 170+.  You'll see
quite a few other "Taco" style wings on certain models of another
kind of car that frequents the Autobahn.  I think it's called a
Porsche!?  :-)  But if you're planning to go over 140 in your
Stealth (which is very likely), you may want to consider a ground
effects package...

By the time Team3S "Autobahn Denizens" Roger, Jim, and Mikael get
through with your car, you'll probably be beating up on the
competition pretty regularly!


FYI:  The Stealth was being RE-designed by the late 80's, from the
Chrysler concept car designed in the early 80's, built and shown
around '85/'86, originally called the Intrepid" (no relation).  By
the late 80's, they had Mitsu on board to build the car for them so
it wouldn't break...  With all of Mitsu's racing experience through
the years, I'm sure they wouldn't have built the Stealth with an
ineffective spoiler.  After all, their name was proudly in the
Stealth ads too, "Designed by Chrysler, Built by Mitsubishi".

Best,

Forrest


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 01:35:39 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: the honeycomb shtuff :)

Hi Benson,

>When the car sat off for a long
>time (as in over-night), when I would get in to drive the car, no matter
>what gear I started out in (meaning either 1st, or reverse), unless I
>applied a ton of gas (as in getting to about 5000 rpms), the car would
start
>to choke and almost stall right as the gear was engaging as I let up on the
>clutch.  But almost immediately after I drove for about 5 seconds, it
>wouldn't do that again (it was as if the ECU had to quickly re-learn the
>air-flow or something).

I guess it is one of those "unexplainable" things which happen. :) I have to
agree that it might be the ECU re learning. I have had that happen to me
once but it was fine after that first inccident. That's why I called it
unexplainable.

>It will do that same problem until the engine has
>warmed up, and then it disappears (which isn't a problem really, because I
>always warm my car in the cold weather).
>It has never done that since,

I warm my engine up too. The problem I face is that after I warm the car up
and drive of....the first light I meet down the hill almost always causes my
car to stall. I thought at first it was the TPS or a faulty throttle
body...but nah!!! I spoke with my mechanic today and he told me that those
honey combs are really important and that was probably why my car could not
maintain idle. U know..it is best (regardless of whether the 3000 is turbo
or non turbo) to keep those honey combs in place. At least that's what I
feel. When the weather gets colder, the car acts up even more, especially
when the car is "luke warm."

>except for now that
>it's getting colder.  >
>But that's the only problem I've experienced after the K&N, but never a
>problem with the idle.  Any ideas what this is?

I don't know....my worry is that this could be a pre-cursor to an idle link
event...ie, all this could culminate in a fluctuating idle in the long-run.
When I punched my honey combs out, I experienced nothing at first with my
car and as months progressed I began to feel that something was not
right...by that time I had forgotten all about those honeycombs. Anyway, it
is only just recently which this topic was brought up ...which made me
understand better the purpose of those honey combs. I wll experiment with a
new MAF unit and see what happens. If my idle problem goes away then HURRAY!

Question for u and all: My mechanic said that the missing honey combs could
be also linked to the fact that I am constantly running too rich...and
fouling my plugs; makes any sense? Plugs are currently NGKS gapped at 0.035.
:)

Later Benson and take care.

Julian Ng
94 Pearl White Veilside VR4
gtovr4@postalzone.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell <benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 1:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: the honeycomb shtuff :)


>> Hope this helps ...and Benson please check take note on when u removed
>those
>> honey combs as if your idle begins to fluctuate during cold temperatures
>or
>> at any period of time..then u know u have been pulled into "The Storm of
>the
>> Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic there)
>
>
>Well I have a '95 non-turbo 3000 so that might be making a difference.  The
>car has never had a problem idling after putting the K&N back on, but there
>was one pecular problem that did happen.  It took about 2 weeks or so for
the car to stop
>doing that all together, so I guess the ECU was just learning and adjusting
>over that time period.  >
>
>Latuh fuh U,
>Benson
>benson@2015.com
>
>"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 01:39:12 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..

Pardon my ignorance Roger,

But how do u do that? I mean the original honey combs..i remember seem to be
pretty thick. If I were to go to a hardware shop and fine a mesh material,
would it actually serve the same purpose as those honey combs?

How would we attach the mesh...my fear is that it might get sucked into the
wrong place...do i make sense?

Thanks

Julian Ng
94 Pearl White GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..


>Guys, wait before buying a new MAF as maybe a simple mesh of stainless
steel
>will help. This is what the MAFs have in the Camaro/Firebird/Corvettes. If
>you removed the front plastic part, you may be able to secure such a mesh
>behind it and it should straigthen the flow just enough. The sensor is in
>the middle part and it is maybe enough just to insert a screen there. You
>can try different mesh sizes and you'll notice pretty fast how good the
idle
>is. Just make sure to drive the car a little to let it learn until it idles
>correctly.
>
>Good luck,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>> Hope this helps ...and Benson please check take note on when u removed
>those
>> honey combs as if your idle begins to fluctuate during cold temperatures
>or
>> at any period of time..then u know u have been pulled into "The Storm of
>the
>> Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic there)
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:30:57 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aero downforce

Benson...

I'm sure the design was intended to function at higher speeds, because
that's when it's needed. You don't want the drag at the dragstrip. It also
provides visibility in the rear, clearance in the front, not to mention the
"tech toy" value that appeals to many.

Fixed units could work in the rear, if you don't mind having a spoiler
blocking your view at all times. Won't work for the front, where there's
only a couple inches of clearance when the air dam is down. It would be
nearly impossible to clear any speed bump, driveway, etc.

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 8:04 PM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S: Aero downforce

OK, so here's an idea (I dunno if it's any good mind you, which is why I'm
asking about it here :).  Wouldn't it just be better to get a new spoiler
(or modify the original) and permanently position it so that it's in the
same position as the active aero is when you're traveling fast enough that
it makes a difference, get an air-damm, and then dump the actual system to
save the weight?  Or would this cause problems when going at lower speeds or
accelerating?

Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:36:33 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Ignition and knock

Hi,

Today I talked to a engine builder here in Stockholm, he is specialized in
turbo rally cars.

I asked if he had any ideas about why our cars knock at such low boost, he
replied that it can ofcourse be a bad engine construction but he didn't
think that this was the case since Mitsu usually makes good internals (he
works allot with the Lancer Evo)

His suggestion was to change engine management system to a system that has
higher resolution crankshaft trigger, this will result in a more precise
ignition timing and that will help allot against knock.(i.e Electromotive
have 60 points and our stock system have 3 points plus cam sensor)

What do you guys think about this??? Does it make sense?

/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 10:34:40 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Missing & Check engine????

Matt,

   I've tried that and it didn't work.  It only worked on my
dodge caravan with the Mitsubishi engine.  I had to do the
ignition thing 3 times on that car, and then I got the code
from the light.  Anwyay, I think it's pin 1 to ground but don't
quote me on that.  I told Trent I'll look it up tonight, coz I
definitely wrote it down.  Besides, it's in the repair manual too.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors


Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> > Now, Jeff suggested that I pull the codes from the ECU to
> > determine exactly what the problem is.  I am all for this
> > because I have taken everything apart 3 times now!
> > However he wasn't sure exactly which pin to ground to
> > make the check engine light flash the code.  Could someone
> > please help me with this?  I have a 95 RT TT.  I checked
> > and it had the big 16 pin OBD connector.
>
> I think you can actually have it flash the codes on the
> check engine light.  If it is possible on these cars, you
> do the following with the ignition key:
>
> on
> off
> on
> off
> on
>
> ...all within 5 seconds.  You don't have to start the car, just toggle the key.  It should flash out the codes for you after the sequence is entered.  Works on 2G Eclipse/Talons and other Mitsu ECU cars like the Dodge Avenger.  Haven't tried it on my 3000, but it has worked on other modern Mitsu-ECU cars.  Give it a try...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:54:11 -0800
From: "Nav Moondi" <moondin@megahits.com>
Subject: Team3S: **  Vegas : the retrospective!! **

Woo Hoo!.  What a blast this weekend!!!

Lesse here?  Lots of dancing, lots of drinking, drag-racing
on the Strip, Laughing our asses off at the video at Quincy's,
riding the "big-shot" at the Stratosphere, and the coaster at
New York, New York, terrorizing the locals at the Luxor at 4am, 
Body Shots, Visiting the friendly neighbourhood strip clubs,
Driving back to LA at 95mph *racing!* for 2 hours with a highway
trooper (no kiddin'!) !!, lots of food, not much gambling, rollerblading
(and falling!), go-kart racing!, Justin's "ladies, look at my nipples!",
and good ol' Dan (the man of all men) climbing a rock mountain! 

Yes folks we did ALL that in one weekend, plus a whole lot more!
Monica is right, if you didn't come because of some dorky lame
excuse, you ARE LOSERS!! We had an absolute RIOT!!! all this
weekend, no beating aroudn the bush!  We were dancing at the
Beach til almost 4am!!  Courtney, shame on you!!!!  You Wimp!

Got back Sunday night, completely exhausted.  What memories!
Vegas *anytime*!  baby is all I can say!!!

- -= nav =-

"Problems in this world:  Ozone Layer, Hunger, Environment, Logging,
Fat men in speedos in France..."

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:57:24 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re Aero downforce

- -Bob Forrest wrote:

snip


FYI:  The Stealth was being RE-designed by the late 80's, from the
Chrysler concept car designed in the early 80's, built and shown
around '85/'86, originally called the Intrepid" (no relation).  By
the late 80's, they had Mitsu on board to build the car for them so
it wouldn't break...  With all of Mitsu's racing experience through
the years, I'm sure they wouldn't have built the Stealth with an
ineffective spoiler.  After all, their name was proudly in the
Stealth ads too, "Designed by Chrysler, Built by Mitsubishi".

As an additional comment to the design features of the wings on these
cars....it is obvious from the recessed arc behind the back windows on both,
that the original wing design was for the Stealth type wing. The Stealth
wing compliments the arc on this recessed portion perfectly. That is, the
recess and the wing were obviously designed with each other in mind.  I
suspect Mitsu opted to depart with it's wing choice for: 1) distinctness
from it's twin, and 2) because mechanization of the active aero of their
design choice was more easily achieved given the dynamics of the car. This
advantage, however, has the slight design clash with the recessed arc that
the less flamboyant Stealth wing compliments so well.

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:11:31 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S: How to Read Diagnostic Codes

>    I've tried that and it didn't work.  It only worked on my
> dodge caravan with the Mitsubishi engine.  I had to do the
> ignition thing 3 times on that car, and then I got the code
> from the light.  Anwyay, I think it's pin 1 to ground but don't
> quote me on that.  I told Trent I'll look it up tonight, coz I
> definitely wrote it down.  Besides, it's in the repair manual too.

Here's the info:

Up to 1993 models:

Connect analog voltmeter to top right pin (ground) of diagnostic test connector and to the bottom left pin (diagnostic output terminal).  This is the orientation when the "clip" side is on the left side of the connector:  (read these with a fixed-width font, like Courier to preserve the spacing)

- --+--
| |G|
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
| +-+
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
|T| |
+-+-+

"G" is the ground, and "T" is the test connection.  Note the two "joined" connector cells on the left side - that is how to determine the correct orientation of the connector.  It should have the two linked cells on the left side.  I suppose flipping the diagram results in the connections being in the same place, so the orientation shouldn't matter that much.

94 and up models:

- -------------------------------
\  | 1| 2| 3| 4| 5| 6| 7| 8|  /
\ +--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+ /
  \| 9|10|11|12|13|14|15|16|/
   +-----------------------+
              XXX

The ground terminal(s) are pins 4 and 5.  The diagnostic output terminal is pin 13.

Codes are flashed by a presence of voltage indicating "on" and lack of voltage indicating "off".  A code starts with an "off" state, then long "on" flashes for the first digit, then short "on" flashes for the second digit.  You may get multiple codes, which will flash in increasing sequence.  The sequence will repeat after each series.  Easiest way to read these are with a 12V light bulb (like an instrument cluster lamp), hooked up to a couple wires which are inserted in the test connector.

Codes:

long ON - ECU
11 - O2 sensor (or left bank O2, 94 and later CA model)
12 - Volume air flow sensor
13 - Intake air temp sensor
14 - Throttle position sensor
21 - Coolant temp sensor
22 - Crankshaft position sensor
23 - Camshaft position sensor
24 - Vehicle speed sensor
25 - Barometric pressure sensor
31 - Knock sensor
36 - Ignition timing adjustment signal (DOHC)
39 - O2 sensor (right bank O2 on 94 and later CA models)
41 - Fuel injector
43 - EGR (CA - Non-turbo, turbo)
44 - Ignition coil, ignition power transistor (1-4 cylinder)
52 - Ignition coil, power transistor (2-5 cylinder)
53 - Ignition coil, power transistor (3-5 cylinder)
59 - Left bank heated O2 sensor (rear) CA from 94 up
61 - Cable from transaxle control module for transmission
     of torque reduction signal (A/T only)
62 - Induction control valve position sensor (non-turbo)
69 - Right bank heated O2 sensor (rear) CA from 94 up

Continuous waver (on, off, on, off...) - Normal state, no codes.


...for the Archives.  :-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 11:04:52 -0500
From: Rick Diogo <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S turbos

At 11:27 AM 11/8/99 -0600, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>I forgot who asked, but I don't think you could just drop in a cartridge
>from a DSM auto tranny turbo for the rear turbo.  I think the vanes on the
>compressor and exhaust side wheel would also need to be reversed since the
>flow through both sides is reversed.  You could look in the intake side of
>the rear turbo and see if it matches the front side.  If that's reversed,
>you know you are in trouble.


My friend has a pair of 13g (automatic 1st gen Talon) compressor wheels on
his factory 9b units and his car flies.  He did not have to reverse anything.




>Interesting idea though...  Maybe you could get the internals for the
>front side turbo, and somehow acquire a reversed one for the rear.  Or
>just buy a rear 13G and save a ton of money.


see above.

Rick
94 R/T TT
Cartech intercoolers
13g turbos
HKS exh

==============================================================


>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:50:26 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: Team3S: AFM Mesh..end results

The mesh in the AFM serves in what seems to be some cases a true purpose, and
maybe in others...a half purpose.

I honestly wouldnt like to see someone mess with a $700 AFM without GOOD need.


IMHO, if it needs messed with at all, put in a VPC and just replace it.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:49:14 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce

But I must say that without
> active effects, my Stealth gets pretty squirrely at around 135 (I
> won't go faster) while the Mitsus can stay put at 170+.  You'll see
> quite a few other "Taco" style wings on certain models of another
> kind of car that frequents the Autobahn.  I think it's called a
> Porsche!?  :-)  But if you're planning to go over 140 in your
> Stealth (which is very likely), you may want to consider a ground
> effects package...
====================================================

Hmmmmm !!  I had my 93 stealth TT up to 145 or so before the passenger
seat speed limiter kicked in and it felt solid as a rock. I would have no
problem  taking it much farther.
PS. this run was before my suspension mods.

Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                               --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines ---
                     GC/Eibach  600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber plate
                             Yokohama  AVS  sport  255x40x17
                    Porsch/Brembo [ big red ] brakes --- KVR 315mm rotors
                              Roadrace engineering rear  strut tower
                       Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:08:30 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce

I n this case, I suspect the difference in the performance at high speed in
Bob's and Jim's cars (both Stealths) is the difference in the two cars: one
is a NA base model and the other is a TT. There are some inherent features
to the TT (AWD, AWS, ECS, etc) that would allow it to perform better at
higher speeds.

Best

Darc


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 14:30:01 EST
From: ANguyen999@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: jet chips?

on their website JetChips claims that their chips can increase hp by 10-30 on our cars (nonturbo and turbo).  does anyone have any experience with them?  is this a worthwhile purchase?  their site www.jetchip.com

thanks,
andy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 14:42:39 EST
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4  won't crank!!

Okay,  I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time,  I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and dash
area,  and the car doesn't crank.      So I tried a few more times and now
all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and a
clicking around the same area where the buzz came from.     I'm hoping maybee
some type of solenoid or switch went out.        I'll be checking it out.    
Any suggestions??        thanks.   
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:49:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 95VR-4  won't crank!!

Dead battery -- possibly dead alternator. Very simple.

- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751

On Tue, 9 Nov 1999 MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> Okay,  I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time,  I turn the
> key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and dash
> area,  and the car doesn't crank.      So I tried a few more times and now
> all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and a
> clicking around the same area where the buzz came from.     I'm hoping maybee
> some type of solenoid or switch went out.        I'll be checking it out.    
> Any suggestions??        thanks.   
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:48:17 -0800
From: Todd Leveck <todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 95VR-4  won't crank!!

Your battery is dead!!!

todd
93 vr4

- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:43 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!


Okay,  I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time,  I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and dash
area,  and the car doesn't crank.      So I tried a few more times and now
all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and a

clicking around the same area where the buzz came from.     I'm hoping
maybee
some type of solenoid or switch went out.        I'll be checking it out.

Any suggestions??        thanks.   
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:09:39 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 95VR-4  won't crank!!

- -----Original Message-----From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
<MitsuVR41@aol.com>
>Okay,  I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time,  I
turn the
>key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob
and dash
>area,  and the car doesn't crank.      So I tried a few more times
and now
>all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter
area, and a
>clicking around the same area where the buzz came from.     I'm
hoping maybee
>some type of solenoid or switch went out.        I'll be checking
it out.
>Any suggestions??        thanks.


Sounds like a dead battery, but it could be a loose battery
connection- smack the terminals a couple of times with a (non-metal)
mallet and try again.  Check all possible lights you might have left
on (glove box, map lights) and charge the battery if you've got a
charger.  If it's still making noise, it could be the starter (gone
through any puddles lately?).  I guess maybe the alternator, too.

Good luck,

Forrest



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 21:24:16 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce

> Jim Matthews, our European Admin in Germany, is off to Bavaria at the moment
> or he'd likely respond personally on his experiences on the Autobahns there
> in his Stealth TT. He's had no probs taking it to the max!  However, the
> Stealth wing and front air dam are not quite as effective at light speed for
> stabilization purposes, as the Mitsu's rear adjustable wing and front
> adjustable dam.

Well I have had my '95 Stealth RT TT up to 155 mph on the speedo here in Germany.  I
have not gone faster because my tires are a little thin, however, that will be fixed
this week.:)  Anyway, at 140 plus I have not noticed the car wanting to "float" or loose
control in any way.  However, I have noticed that at about 120 mph the windows "pop"
(i.e. the pressure differential actually pulls the door windows away from the
gasketing).  Between that and the sunroof the noise is VERY loud.  This probably
explains why the euro-VR4 does not have a sunroof option.  Above 150 the road noise is
very loud and with 18" rims it is very rough.  However, at about 155 mph the windshield
wipers start to flutter, and almost look like they are going to fly off.
    My experiences on unlimited speed limit road is that the Stealth is very comfortable
at about 100 mph.  Anymore and the road noise really starts to get loud.  However, I do
tend to go about 110-125 mph most of the time where there is no speed limit.  The
biggest problem with this is stopping.  If you have to go from 130 to 0 mph the stock
brakes overheat.  They can withstand one stop, but you will have to baby them for about
five minutes before they are back to normal.


Mike C. (saving for a brake upgrade)
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:33:08 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 95VR-4  won't crank!!

Check your battery connections for starters. Could be as simple as that.

Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:57 AM
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!


>Okay,  I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time,  I turn the
>key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and dash
>area,  and the car doesn't crank.      So I tried a few more times and now
>all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and
a
>clicking around the same area where the buzz came from.     I'm hoping
maybee
>some type of solenoid or switch went out.        I'll be checking it out.
>Any suggestions??        thanks.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:36:51 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: jet chips?

What's interesting at this site is that they give different hp increases
with their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt.  Anyone care to wager an
explanation as to why this is ;-)

Best

Darc

- -----Original Message-----
From: ANguyen999@aol.com <ANguyen999@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: jet chips?


>on their website JetChips claims that their chips can increase hp by 10-30
on our cars (nonturbo and turbo).  does anyone have any experience with
them?  is this a worthwhile purchase?  their site www.jetchip.com
>
>thanks,
>andy
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:40:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: jet chips?

Not sure, but that worries me.. :)

- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751

On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Darcy Gunnlaugson wrote:

> What's interesting at this site is that they give different hp increases
> with their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt.  Anyone care to wager an
> explanation as to why this is ;-)
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ANguyen999@aol.com <ANguyen999@aol.com>
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:33 AM
> Subject: Team3S: jet chips?
>
>
> >on their website JetChips claims that their chips can increase hp by 10-30
> on our cars (nonturbo and turbo).  does anyone have any experience with
> them?  is this a worthwhile purchase?  their site www.jetchip.com
> >
> >thanks,
> >andy
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:12:31 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 95VR-4  won't crank!!

My Predator goes dead within two weeks if I don't keep a charger on it.
Exactly the same symptom. Could be a loose cable or corroded connection as
well.

Hope you didn't miss the job interview.

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:43 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!


Okay,  I get up and go out to get to my job interview on time,  I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and dash
area,  and the car doesn't crank.      So I tried a few more times and now
all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and a

clicking around the same area where the buzz came from.     I'm hoping
maybee
some type of solenoid or switch went out.        I'll be checking it out.

Any suggestions??        thanks.   
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:59:07 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Warning : jet chips?

Guys,

Please ALWAYS snip the unimportant part of the message as the member who are
interested in the topic have already read them !

> Not sure, but that worries me.. :)

Also, we do not accept the chatting style of the the messages we have seen
lately. Therefore please replay to the list with information that is of a
value for everyone or reply privately.

For more information please reread the rules !

Thanks,
Roger for the Admins


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:14:36 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..

> Pardon my ignorance Roger,
> But how do u do that?

No ignorance at all ;-)

> I mean the original honey combs..i remember seem to be
> pretty thick. If I were to go to a hardware shop and fine a mesh material,
> would it actually serve the same purpose as those honey combs?

The idea of the honeycombs is to straighten the air (as already told by
others) and to smoothen it out. As I mentioned, the MAF in the Camaros do
have such a thin mesh infront of the hot wires. Removing it causes the car
to idle less good but some say removing the screen gives mroe power. Well,
this is not proven :)

> How would we attach the mesh...my fear is that it might get sucked into
the
> wrong place...do i make sense?

Yes, sure, you definitely have to cut something out that fits behind the
plastic part that is removeable. I didn't thought further than just using a
cheap screen with only the area that is needed for the air flow sensor. It's
just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it as I already have
an ARC MAF kit installed :-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:24:21 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: jet chips?

> What's interesting at this site is that they give different hp increases
> with their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt.  Anyone care to wager an
> explanation as to why this is ;-)

Ok guys, we ALL KNOW that our cars cannot be tuned up by a simple chip. This
is because our ECU do not have chips inside ! The only solution is a
daughter board and this runs for at least $750.

Other tuners do some simple modifications like soldering a small resistor to
the stock boost solenoid activating line. This will close the valve later
than normal, causing a higher overall boost. This works but is still too
expensive because it still does nothing else than bleeding the pressure in
the actuator lines.

IMHO, Chips should give anyone these chips for free, let them dyno test it
(a NA car, or they send me the chip and I dyno it here on the AWD) and if it
works I'm sure some will buy them. But to be honest .... they only sell a
sticker and a resistor, nothing else.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 14:10:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ground cam's...

Today I poped open the oil cap on my valve cover and looked in.. the first
part (tooth? section? whatever it is.. the raised part) looks GREAT.. but
the rest (as far in as I can see) looks like osmeone took a sandblaster to
it!! Its GROUND TO HELL! I bought a warentee with the car, but the mitsu
dealer (at least w/o taking it apart andl ooking at it) says it'll
probably be considered a "wear" item.. which means that they wont cover
it.. (kind of like a clutch or brakes). Right now the car runs fine but i
have a few questions.. 1, could this be giving me less power than I should
have?   2) how hard are they to replace? how much money does it cost for
good upgraded cams? Is it a job I can do myself?  3) Should I even worry
about it, or just drive on these until they die? 4) shoudl I be able to
get mitsu (fyi, its a GM warentee) to cover the cams?

Thanks..

- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:14:54 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition and knock

> I asked if he had any ideas about why our cars knock at such low boost, he
> replied that it can ofcourse be a bad engine construction but he didn't
> think that this was the case since Mitsu usually makes good internals (he
> works allot with the Lancer Evo)

Well, there is a big difference : we have two 3-cylinder engines connected
together. A V8 knocks much less as well does an inline engine. But the gain
is a lightweight, compact engine with still plenty of power.

> His suggestion was to change engine management system to a system that has
> higher resolution crankshaft trigger, this will result in a more precise
> ignition timing and that will help allot against knock.(i.e Electromotive
> have 60 points and our stock system have 3 points plus cam sensor)

And what would be the gain then ? I'm currently run a G-Force ECU with a
little more timing than a stock California car. The datalogs showed that the
timing was less than with my stock EU ECU and there was significantly less
knock ... almost no knock ! I do not have enough money to go to the dyno day
by day and run the new ECU. but I do not feel a lot of difference in powere
due to the less advanced timing. Maybe this is the trick, although I think
that this may rise EGT too.

The high resolution of the electromotice crankshaft sensor is good as it is
possible to set the timign more accurately. But I'm sure even only the
electromotive stuff with its coisl and the engergy sent to the plugs will
solve the most of the ignition problems and therefore also some of the
detonation and knock stuff.

Just to test the thing out is a little to expensive for me ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:23:53 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground cam's...

> the rest (as far in as I can see) looks like osmeone took a sandblaster to
> it!! Its GROUND TO HELL! I bought a warentee with the car, but the mitsu
> dealer (at least w/o taking it apart andl ooking at it) says it'll
> probably be considered a "wear" item.. which means that they wont cover
> it.. (kind of like a clutch or brakes).

Don't worry, this is the output camshaft you are seeing and there is only a
little wear and they have to be totally blank ! You cann pul lthe valve
cover and inspect both camshafts and look if one or more have strange signs
of abnormal wear. But this is very seldom.

> 1, could this be giving me less power than I should have?
no problem

>  2) how hard are they to replace? how much money does it cost for
> good upgraded cams?
There are only custom cams available and then you shoudl also use other
parts as well as lightweight valves, ported heads, etc.

>  3) Should I even worry about it, or just drive on these until they die?
Nahhh, forget them and drive the car. Nothing to worry unless you have very
strange signs or even a broken part of the camshaft or metallic particles
under the valvecover.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 18:28:27 EST
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2

Okay,  the battery is not dead.  Everything in the car still has power.  The
alarm still works,  lights,  etc....     The only electrical things that
dont' work are the stereo, and the power mirrors.        The MFI relay switch
is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay switch
would cause a starting problem or would it?  The starter motor has acutally
turned on,  but nothing else happend,  every thing else just seemed dead.  
The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery,  so I'd
hope it would have enough juice,  it is brand new.     I'm still
troubleshooting here.  when I find my ohmeter,  i'll test the MFI and starter
relays.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 15:49:17 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2

This is another problem that I too am trying to solve.  I will hear a click when
I turn over the key.  The car will start eventually, but sometimes it takes
10-20 tries.  It also seems to be getting worse :(.  I have had the problem with
my old and new starter, old and new battery, old and new starter relay, old and
new battery cable connectors.  The clutch switch seems fine as I always hear the
click when it is depressed.  About the only thing I haven't replaced is the
alarm relay in the starter circuit.  Another possibility might be my aftermarket
alarm if it has a kill switch.  The battery cables have no corrosion on the
battery end, but I'll check the other end for good connections.  I will also
measure voltage at the battery and the starter when the key is turned.

Good luck to both of us!

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> Okay,  the battery is not dead.  Everything in the car still has power.  The
> alarm still works,  lights,  etc....     The only electrical things that
> dont' work are the stereo, and the power mirrors.        The MFI relay switch
> is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay switch
> would cause a starting problem or would it?  The starter motor has acutally
> turned on,  but nothing else happend,  every thing else just seemed dead.
> The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery,  so I'd
> hope it would have enough juice,  it is brand new.     I'm still
> troubleshooting here.  when I find my ohmeter,  i'll test the MFI and starter
> relays.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 15:48:11 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2

The only way to be sure if you have enough battery power is with a voltmeter.
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals [ NOT at the cable connectors ],
and have someone attempt to start the car ---- the voltage should stay up
around 10 or 11 volts. If the voltage drops down to 8 volts or so you have a
dead battery. If the battery voltage stays up then measure the voltage at the
cables, if the voltage drops low it would indicate a corroded battery terminal.
If it  remains high then you have a problem elsewhere.

PS. a hydrometer can also be used to check charge on a battery, they cost
a few bucks at your local parts store but they wont detect corroded cables.

PPS. some of the low power items will work when the battery is low because
they don't require high current from the battery. I would however expect the
lights to be dim.

    Jim Berry
===========================================================

,  the battery is not dead.  Everything in the car still has power.  The
> alarm still works,  lights,  etc....     The only electrical things that
> dont' work are the stereo, and the power mirrors.        The MFI relay switch
> is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay switch
> would cause a starting problem or would it?  The starter motor has acutally
> turned on,  but nothing else happend,  every thing else just seemed dead.  
> The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery,  so I'd
> hope it would have enough juice,  it is brand new.     I'm still
> troubleshooting here.  when I find my ohmeter,  i'll test the MFI and starter
> relays.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:20:32 -0500
From: "SkoobY" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2

Make that three of us...
my radio does work, as well as everything else in the car, but i get nothing
but that annoying click (and buzz if you hold the key) for 5-10 turns of the
key...
from what you replaced, it doesnt seem like the starter... what could it
be??

Carlos

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2


> This is another problem that I too am trying to solve.  I will hear a
click when
> I turn over the key.  The car will start eventually, but sometimes it
takes
> 10-20 tries.  It also seems to be getting worse :(.  I have had the
problem with
> my old and new starter, old and new battery, old and new starter relay,
old and
> new battery cable connectors.  The clutch switch seems fine as I always
hear the
> click when it is depressed.  About the only thing I haven't replaced is
the
> alarm relay in the starter circuit.  Another possibility might be my
aftermarket
> alarm if it has a kill switch.  The battery cables have no corrosion on
the
> battery end, but I'll check the other end for good connections.  I will
also
> measure voltage at the battery and the starter when the key is turned.
>
> Good luck to both of us!
>
> MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Okay,  the battery is not dead.  Everything in the car still has power.
The
> > alarm still works,  lights,  etc....     The only electrical things that
> > dont' work are the stereo, and the power mirrors.        The MFI relay
switch
> > is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay
switch
> > would cause a starting problem or would it?  The starter motor has
acutally
> > turned on,  but nothing else happend,  every thing else just seemed
dead.
> > The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery,  so
I'd
> > hope it would have enough juice,  it is brand new.     I'm still
> > troubleshooting here.  when I find my ohmeter,  i'll test the MFI and
starter
> > relays.
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> --
> I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:13:18 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2

You can bypass the clutch switch just by unplugging one of the wires
to the microswitch [ the switch opens when the clutch is depressed ]
There are two switches, one when you first depress the clutch [ cruse
control ] and one when the clutch is fully depressed [  interlock ] make
sure you unplug the right one. A word of caution ---- with the interlock
removed you can start the car in gear.

   Jim Berry


> .  The clutch switch seems fine as I always hear the
> click when it is depressed. 

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:22:10 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..

Hi Roger,

Thanks for replying. I spoke to Brian before about the ARC kit.....

Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster flow. Will
that be sufficient to cure the problem or would the upgraded MAF do more
damage to my car. My question is do I have to buy also the ARC unit too in
order for the upgraded MAF unit to work?

I must call Brian again to ask him...real nice guy.

Later

Julian
gtovr4@postalzone.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..


>> Pardon my ignorance Roger,
>> But how do u do that?
>
>No ignorance at all ;-)
>
>> I mean the original honey combs..i remember seem to be
>> pretty thick. If I were to go to a hardware shop and fine a mesh
material,
>> would it actually serve the same purpose as those honey combs?
>
>The idea of the honeycombs is to straighten the air (as already told by
>others) and to smoothen it out. As I mentioned, the MAF in the Camaros do
>have such a thin mesh infront of the hot wires. Removing it causes the car
>to idle less good but some say removing the screen gives mroe power. Well,
>this is not proven :)
>
>> How would we attach the mesh...my fear is that it might get sucked into
>the
>> wrong place...do i make sense?
>
>Yes, sure, you definitely have to cut something out that fits behind the
>plastic part that is removeable. I didn't thought further than just using a
>cheap screen with only the area that is needed for the air flow sensor.
It's
>just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it as I already have
>an ARC MAF kit installed :-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 20:29:17 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: ARC MAF

>just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it as I already have
>an ARC MAF kit installed :-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
Roger, do you like the ARC MAF?  Is it worth $1000 and does it give you any
more power
alone?  How much better is it than a VPC?  I went to your site and I
concluded from your graphs
that knock was not significantly different, but that you attribute that to
stock injectors.  >I am planning
on getting the 550cc injectors, Supra pump, 15g turbos and some sort of fuel
computer.  I was just going
to get a G-Force because these will be the extent of my mods as far as
turbos are concerned and
will not need further adjustment-this is a daily driver and I want no real
lag and reliable power.  However,
cost is all the same, unless I get a stand alone AFC, but my experience with
the boost controller tells me
I will always be fooling with it, and that becomes a nuisance.  Also, I need
good mileage and only get
about 300 miles to a tank now!  What is your opinion on this ARC unit, and
how fuel efficient is it under
normal driving?

Sam  95 VR4


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 18:56:57 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC MAF

- --- Sam Shelat <sshelat@erols.com> wrote:

> Also, I need
> good mileage and only get
> about 300 miles to a tank now!  What is your opinion
> on this ARC unit, and
> how fuel efficient is it under
> normal driving?
>
> Sam  95 VR4
>

Hey Sam,

I have the ARC MAF kit + 550s + HKS pump.  Daily
driving is excellent.. virtually like stock. Fuel
efficiency is also great.. im getting an average of
330 miles to a tank (same as stock!!)

I'll let Roger and other answer the technical
questions.. Good Luck!!

George Kuo
'92 RT TT daily driver
visit my site:
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

=====

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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:08:47 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Honey Combs

> Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster flow. Will
> that be sufficient to cure the problem or would the upgraded MAF do more
> damage to my car. My question is do I have to buy also the ARC unit too in
> order for the upgraded MAF unit to work?

You would need the ARC along with the MAF.  The upgraded MAF is a hot-wire
style meter, not Karman-Vortex.  The ARC converts and adjusts the signal
to Karman-style so the ECU can understand it.

I might also be doing the ARC in spring.  Sounds like a good unit for a
mostly reasonable price.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:09:37 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: MAF/Honeycombs explained, FREE TECH MANUAL!

I saw a couple of posts fly by about removal of honeycombs in the 3/S MAF.
Since knowledge is power (horsepower? :) I extracted JUST the pages that
explain the MAF operation in most "Karman Vortex" systems utilized by
Mitsubishi.

It is in a 110k PDF file at this URL

http://manualcd.dsm.org/dsmgift/

Also at that site is the COMPLETE DSM Tech manual (included on both the 3/S
and DSM CD's), it's about 19mb, and can be downloaded in 4megabyte chunks,
which are self extracting (instructions also in a readme file).

Some other files are also there for customers or people that needed just a
section for one reason or another, and you are welcome to download them as
well. I thought I would give something back to the 3/S and DSM community as
a whole, "free of charge :)". In fact, if anyone needs a section or a page,
feel free to ask, it only takes me a second!

What does the DSM tech manual have to do with 3/S cars? A LOT. Think of the
DSMs as your little brothers and sisters (you know, shorter, smaller,
usually slower :). When it really comes down to it, they are the same car in
operation, with the 3/S being the more luxurious of the two, and also having
1 or 2 more of everything (turbos, plugs, liters, pistons, heads, exhaust
tips, legroom, and a drum/disc combo in the rear that I didn't expect this
weekend! :).

The TECH manual explains alot of the voodoo that the car does behind your
back, and when it puts that smile on your face :)

Oh yes, and the point is... DON'T remove your honeycombs unless they are
part of a "BYPASS" chamber, or you are prepared to use a HK$ VPC which
converts your current Karman system to a MAP (pressure) system.

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:25:50 EST
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 CRANKS NOW  check it out

Okay guys,  like I said,  I have a brand new competition series battery with
1000 cold cranking amps.   I hooked a ohm meter/volmeter to it to see if it
was charged or not.  The meter read the battery as having 12 volts HOWEVER 
when I hooked the battery up to the charger,  it read almost dead.     I
charged the battery for an hour and my car then cranked right up.    I'm
thinking all of you who have been having cranking problems,  maybee you
should check the cold cranking amps on your batteries and hook your batteries
up to a charger to see if our alternators or whatever have kept them full
charge.  Like I said,  I have had the same symptoms on two VR-4's and each
time was related to a new battery that wasn't fully charged.  CHECK YOUR
BATTERY types,  age, and charge!           I"m back and boosting around the
streets.   FEELS GOOD.      :)      Thanks for the help.
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:39:43 -0500
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question to those who have a Hallman boost controller.

A few questions.
1. Do you notice quicker spool up times over stock?
2. Do you have to re-adjust for changing weather conditions?
3. On the web site there is a picture of the unit.  What is the small brass
piece inline on the long piece of hose?  There are two hose clamps on either
side of the small unit.  I think it's an unloader valve, but not sure. (not
I am not asking about the brass part with the adjuster on it)
4.  Do you get a large amount of overshoot?
5.  Any problems that you can see with the unit?

I have a Blitz SSBC right now, and just want to understand how the Hallman
system works.  They raise some good points on their website.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com ) and just want to see if any of it
is true.  Basically the wastegate does not open until the boost pressure
over comes the relief valve, this would lead to the quickest spool up times.
They claim even better than EBC's.

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 23:04:27 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Where is Brad Bedell?

I've been trying to contact Brad Bedell for about two weeks so I can buy a
Big Red brake setup.
He does not respond.
Anybody have a home phone number or snail mail address?
Please reply off list if you do to merritt@cedar-rapids.net

If he HAS left us, does anyone know where I can buy a Brembo kit like Brad's?


Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:32:16 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Honey Combs

Thanks for the info Matt. I guess my next decision is to get either the
entire ARC kit or stick with the traditional AFC and tune it from there with
the help of friends. :)

So far the best price for the MAF unit is 250$ +20$ = 270$ from
msrecycling.com. Then we have Roger's idea which I am still playing around
with. The local Mitsu dealership wants to sell the MAF unit for 580
bucks!!!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! compared to Tallahassee Mitsu!

Thanks people.

Julian Ng
94 VR4 Seattle
gtovr4@postalzone.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 7:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Honey Combs


>> Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster flow.
Will
>> that be sufficient to cure the problem or would the upgraded MAF do more
>> damage to my car. My question is do I have to buy also the ARC unit too
in
>> order for the upgraded MAF unit to work?
>
>You would need the ARC along with the MAF.  The upgraded MAF is a hot-wire
>style meter, not Karman-Vortex.  The ARC converts and adjusts the signal
>to Karman-style so the ECU can understand it.
>
>I might also be doing the ARC in spring.  Sounds like a good unit for a
>mostly reasonable price.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 01:09:28 EST
From: Muratokcu@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce

Thanks for the input Mike, what brand pads/rotors do you use?
on my other mitsu (starion) I have excellent results with original mitsu pads
and terrible experience with after-market pads
are mitsu pads for T/T any good?
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