--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #329
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Sunday, November 7 1999 Volume
01 : Number
329
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 22:10:46 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
THe honeycombs help smooth the
airflow for the AFM to properly meter the mass of
air entering the
system.
The AFM reads a particular type of airflow, which must be linear
(to a point)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darcy Gunnlaugson [
mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent: Saturday,
November 06, 1999 6:03 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
The honeycombs were put in
there by Mitsu engineers to serve as an
educational toy to bewilder the minds
of those who think they mean nothing
and consequently tear them out. They are
something like the Great Pyramid is
on a global basis: an educational toy to
set bewilder the mind of manchild.
;-)
Best
Darc
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Saturday, November 06, 1999 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
>Oh yeah! One more thing...
>When I put the
K&N in , I removed all 4 of those honeycome metal things..
>THey didnt
LOOK like they did anything but smooth the air flow a bit I
>guess. When I
did that, the car idled like crap. When I put them back in,
>the car idled
great. What are they, why did the car idle like that w/o
>them?
Thanks.
>
>--Matt Wise
>*NOC Admin*
>(650) 429
3751
>
>On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
>>
First of all, I'd like to say I am new to this list.. If this type
of
post
>> is not what you guys deal with, please accept my
appologies, but I did
not
>> get much help in the
stealth@starnet.net
list.
>>
>> Three weeks ago I purchased a 1993 3000GT VR-4. I
knew it had a bad
>> sycnrho in 3rd gear, so I gota warentee and they
are supposedly putting a
>> new tranny in next week some time under the
GM warentee. (I HOPE! If they
>> dont, I have a real problem!) I have a
few questions about the car.. as
>> well as things i've done to it and
will do in the future.
>>
>> 1) I replaced the spark plugs
last week. When I did so, I didnt put the
>> upper IC pipe (for the
upper turbo) back on , I just let it hang there
>> because i am an
idiot. After a day, I decided to figure out what was
going
>> on and
realized what happened. I bought the O-ring again because it had
>>
been schredded ($7 for an o-ring at mitsu! Geeze!) by all of the air
from
>> the turbo. My question is, since then, the car hasnt felt like
it had as
>> much kick. Am I imagining things? Is it possible that I
made a leak
>> somewhere else? (I checked all the hoses and pipes I
could find.. Nothing
>> SEEMS loose.
>>
>> 2) Do our
rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE direction as the front
>> wheels?
I've heard both.. and at what speed to they start turning,
and
how
>> much?
>>
>> 3) Could I get two used 13g
turbos off an old automatic Eclipse and use
>> those? would they bolt
on? If so, why wouldnt a 14b bolt on? Are the
>> Eclipse 13g's
different from the upgraded ones you'd get at Extreme for
>>
instance?
>>
>> 4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo Timer about 2
weeks ago, and i've noticed
>> that when I put it in gear and floor it,
max boost is about .4-.42 BAR.
It
>> only hits .5-.55 BAR when i
SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
>> Could the wastegate be
broken or something? Maybe this has to do with my
>> 1st question..
Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
>>
>> 5) I added a
K&N air filter yesterday, and I definately noticed a
>> difference
in the pickup.. how much HP did this most likely add? (by the
>> way, I
am on 9b turbos, the US spec.. not euro spec) How much HP will a
>>
boost controller set at 1.02 bar add? (not to the wheels, just total..
)
>>
>> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the
drivetrain... Is that
>> accurate? If so, how much does a smaller
pulley help?
>>
>> (yes the list keeps
going!)
>>
>> 7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's have 13g turbos, how
much HP are they rated
at?
>> (just out of curiosity) and why dont
US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have those
>> same
turbos?
>>
>> 8) What QUIET exhaust would you guys recomend?
I'm thinking the HKS dual
>> tip exhaust. The borla would be nice, but
its SOO LOUD!
>>
>> 9) How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos
hold? What would you guys
>> recomend for a streetable car?
15g's?
>>
>> THanks, those are all of the questions i've been
thinking about this
>> morning.. i'm sure I'll have more later
:)
>>
>> --Matt Wise
>> *NOC Admin*
>> (650)
429 3751
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 22:13:11 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SF Region AutoX
I plan on attending tomorrow AMs autox in
Oakland.
Decided to fix the flat on the trailer, and find four
"good" racing tires from
the pile out back.
Who
knows..maybe someone from the list will be there.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 00:31:22 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: DSM turbo's on 3/S cars.
1g A/T DSM's came with 13g turbo's stock
(they had the "staggered fin"
design that the 16g's have, and it's
actually called the "G trim"). however,
they will NOT bolt up. The
front one MIGHT be made to work with a different
exhaust housing (3/S cars
have only 3 bolts, dsm's have 4, and of course the
down pipe outlet is
different). The rear one is a different monster all
together. It's reveresed,
and also a bit longer than the front one. (14b's
will not work for the same
reasons, and then the oil/water lines would be
different for sure as
well!)
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Bah, I didnt spend 3 hours on it. :)
I pulled out my drill and drilled the
original air box OFF of the MAS, then
used vice grips :) Anyone want my
air box? :)
- --Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Benson "elmagoo"
Russell wrote:
> That's a good question about the honey-comb
things. When I put on my K&N,
> it was hell and high-water to
get that damn original air-box off of the MAS.
> I accidentally in the
process destroyed the two smaller honeycomb pieces on
> the side (the
rounded ones), but managed to salvage the big one in the
> center.
So I'm running with just one of those pieces in due to engineering
>
stupidity on those damn 4 screws that hold the MAS to the stock air-box.
It
> took me 3+ hours and a friends help to get those two things
separated, and I
> had to totally shred the bottom portion of the stock
air-box. It's an
> amusing story to say the least :).
>
>
> Latuh fuh U,
> Benson
>
benson@2015.com>
> "-Do you
ever have second thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 22:55:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
I know on eclipses they have an oil line
from the head that goes into the
intercooler line. Why? EPA... So the oil
doesnt splatter on the ground or
in the engine. Why did they put the hole? I
dont know.. It could be
somethign similar. I bet you can get a K&N air
filter for it..
- --Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On
Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Michael McWilliams wrote:
> My car has been blowing
large amounts of blue smoke. I did a compression
> check and got
good numbers. I also replaced the PCV valve. I found oil in
>
the rear intercooler pipe and concluded that the bearings and/or seals
were
> bad causing an oil leak which resulted in the smoke.
>
> I was starting to remove the rear turbo to have it sent out for rebuild
when
> I noticed a lot of oil in the intake hose BEFORE the rear
turbo. The only
> place it could be coming from is a hose identified
only as a "vent hose" in
> the manual. This hose
originates on the passenger side of the engine near
> the top center just
below the intake plenum. It leads to the "T" hose which
>
connects the mass air meter to the hoses leading to the turbo intakes
>
(closer to the rear turbo).
>
> Oil is traveling through this hose,
into the rear turbo intake where it
> eventually goes through the
intercooler and ultimately into the Y-pipe and
> intake. What
gives? I know Roger had a similar problem which he described
> as
'PCV oiling' when his engine needed to be rebuilt, but I have good
>
compression numbers on all six cylinders. Could there just be sludge
built
> up in an oil drain hole which is preventing it from draining back
into the
> pan in that particular passage?
>
> Please help
ASAP. My car is half apart and I need to know what to do.
Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Mike
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 22:59:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Went drag racing today, need some opinions !
That is VERY
strange... Even though your ET is 14.5, thats more related to
how good a
driver you are... your total trap speed should EASILY be above
100 from what
i've read online. Isnt stock trap speed 101 mph?
- --Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Kevin wrote:
>
First the car.
> 91 Stealth TT
> Gutted cat/precats
> New NGK
plugs gapped to .034"
> New Accell plug wires
> 60k service
just done
> Blitz SSBC set to 1.05 bar
>
> Now my best
time
> Temp: 64
> Relative humidity: 54
>
60'
- 2.105
>
330'
- 6.007
> 1/8
mile - 9.357
>
1/8 mile MPH - 73.98
>
1000'
- 12.185
> 1/4
mile -
14.521
> 1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>
> >From
everything I have seen online this is way too slow for my car. I
know
> the 60' times were a little slow as I was having trouble
launching. I tried
> launching at 5000 - 5500 RPM and dumping the
clutch, which was ok but not
> neck snapping. I did launch once
trying to slip the clutch but ended up
> toasting the clutch. I was
hoping for low 13 second times, and I have seen
> similar cars going 13.2
with 60' times close to mine. What should I look at
> first?
The car is running fine, no odd noises, sputtering or any other
>
signs. I have noticed the oil cap is leaking after I finished the 60k
mile
> service. (including new PCV valve) Could this be
related? Any 1/4 mile
> guys out there that can make sense of my
times, please speak up.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Kevin
Schappell
> Auto Answers
>
http://www.PACarSearch.com> If you
love cars, check out
>
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead>
------------Still under construction---------------
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 01:06:52 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Steering wheel play/Brakes
These manuals are a crock of $h|+...
They assured me that any steering play
up to 1.2" is NORMAL for our
cars. Well my car had about 1" of free play
before the wheels did
anything. I thought I was ok, and worried about the
other semi-major problems
with the car. I am attacking them one at a time.
I just did the front
brakes, and to my astonishment, there was MAYBE .5mm of
pad material left on
the drivers side, and 2mm left on the passenger side.
There was no squealing,
or any other noises to indicate this dangerous
condition. I knew I had to
change them because the brakes would "grind" a
bit if stopping
moderately fast.
*Rotor removal trick below*
The
rotors were a pain in the ass to take off, and upon screwing
the
"removal bolts" into the old rotors, they promptly
cracked/stripped. I found
a trick though! I removed the caliper (you have to
anyway), and put the big
17mm caliper mounting bolts back in. I stuck 2
QUARTERS between the end of
the bolt and the rotor. Then just screwed the
bolt in a little, then the
lower one the same way. It pushed the seized rotor
off like a charm, and
don't worry, those bolts are like grade 100 or
something because they bent
the quarters, but didn't even look
abused!
I painted the calipers yellow after a good dousing of brake parts
cleaner
and a bit of fine grit sandpaper. They look really nice now! I am
amazed at
how light they are! I think the 3000gt SL brakes that are on my
Talon are 2x
as heavy! Don't worry though, the 3000gt Vr4 front rotor makes
up for the
weight difference, that thing is bigger than what I used to have
on my
ranger! (truck).
Oh yea, back to the steering wheel play...
guess what, my outer tie rod ends
have like 1-2mm of play in them. The bottom
part (spindle) can move w/o
moving the top (nut) part/steering rack. This is
the same if not worse on
the passenger side! Don't tell me THAT is normal! I
went to POOP BOY's, and
they assured me that the ones they listed under
"2 Wheel Steering, outer"
ones were correct. They don't LOOK
correct, kinda wimpy actually (in fact
they look more like my talon ones than
the stealth's!).
I will be ordering the REAL ones from 1888tallmits this
Monday, but how do I
get them off? do I need that "pitch fork"
looking tool (ball joint
separation). I bought one in case. Can I just hammer
it from the top after
removing the nut? Will I need an alignment after
this?
My "loose" steering also caused the car to wander a bit
on the road... I had
just tricked myself into thinking maybe the AWS makes it
feel like that.
Don't believe everything in the manuals! In the brakes
section, they really
seem to think that JUST changing pads is all that is
needed when doing the
brakes. I think this because they don't mention
removing the caliper, so I
assume they don't turn/replace the rotors
(according to their directions).
Always do this!
Also, one more thing.
I got the car with BBS RSII rims on it. They are a 3
piece rim, mesh/spoke
pattern, similar to some BMW OEM rims. I have 3000gt
SL wheels on my Talon
(yea, the talon is more a 3/S car than anything now
:), and with
225/50/16" tires on them, they weigh nearly *50lbs*!!! These
BBS wheels
are the lightest rims I have ever picked up, just for fun, I
weighed them,
and with the 235/45/17's they weigh ONLY 37lbs!. Stock talon
wheels weigh 41!
That is totally amazing (though I think the BBS's look
kinda ugly). In
fact, they are even lighter than my friends Antera 3 spoke
(UGLY, but VERY
light) rims, by 1 lb. And these are 17"s!
A pic of my car is here,
along with the veilside bodied GTO. I like my
stealth's GFX, not TOO
different IMO. (not worth the money/effort to change
something that is nearly
perfect already, maybe if I had a small accident in
front or back I would
change my mind :)
http://manualcd.dsm.org/rich/veil_mycar.jpgEnough
babbling for now, stay tuned for more! Next project? Rear
leaky
turbo!
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 23:16:23 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
You mean..a vent from the head to the
intake plumbing.
Easy.
Emissions.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise [
mailto:diranged@hearme.com]
Sent:
Saturday, November 06, 1999 10:56 PM
To: Michael McWilliams
Cc:
stealth-3000
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
I know on
eclipses they have an oil line from the head that goes into the
intercooler
line. Why? EPA... So the oil doesnt splatter on the ground or
in the engine.
Why did they put the hole? I dont know.. It could be
somethign similar. I bet
you can get a K&N air filter for it..
- --Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Michael McWilliams
wrote:
> My car has been blowing large amounts of blue smoke. I
did a compression
> check and got good numbers. I also replaced the
PCV valve. I found oil in
> the rear intercooler pipe and concluded
that the bearings and/or seals were
> bad causing an oil leak which
resulted in the smoke.
>
> I was starting to remove the rear turbo
to have it sent out for rebuild when
> I noticed a lot of oil in the
intake hose BEFORE the rear turbo. The only
> place it could be
coming from is a hose identified only as a "vent hose" in
> the
manual. This hose originates on the passenger side of the engine
near
> the top center just below the intake plenum. It leads to the
"T" hose which
> connects the mass air meter to the hoses
leading to the turbo intakes
> (closer to the rear turbo).
>
> Oil is traveling through this hose, into the rear turbo intake where
it
> eventually goes through the intercooler and ultimately into the
Y-pipe and
> intake. What gives? I know Roger had a similar
problem which he described
> as 'PCV oiling' when his engine needed to be
rebuilt, but I have good
> compression numbers on all six cylinders.
Could there just be sludge built
> up in an oil drain hole which is
preventing it from draining back into the
> pan in that particular
passage?
>
> Please help ASAP. My car is half apart and I
need to know what to do. Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 23:23:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@hearme.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
> >4) I added a Blitz Dual
TUrbo Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
> >that when I put it
in gear and floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR. It
> >only hits
.5-.55 BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
> >Could
the wastegate be broken or something? Maybe this has to do with my
>
>1st question.. Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
>
> Did
you hook up the vacuum hose to the blowoff valve properly? If not,
>
that can be a major source of lost boost.
Umm, For the boost guage
portion of my turbo timer, doesnt it connect to
the top vacume hose coming
off of the throttle body?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 Nov 1999 15:31:30 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
> The only place it could be coming from
is a hose identified only as a "vent
> hose" in the
manual.
What about the BPV valve ? If you have oil in the y-pipe it will
be blown back
into the intake before the turbos. This was not the case in my
problem as I had
the HKS BOV installed and therefore the oil definitely was
comming from the
crankcase ventilation system.
> Oil is traveling
through this hose, into the rear turbo intake where it
> eventually goes
through the intercooler and ultimately into the Y-pipe and
>
intake.
Yes, this is possible and the vacuum before the turbo even more
"sucks" the oil
into the intake.
> What gives? I
know Roger had a similar problem which he described
> as 'PCV oiling' when
his engine needed to be rebuilt, but I have good
> compression numbers on
all six cylinders. Could there just be sludge built
> up in an oil
drain hole which is preventing it from draining back into the
> pan in
that particular passage?
I's also suggest the engine flush with a good
oil change as you may have too
much pressure in the crankcase due to some
cooked oil in the passages.
> Please help ASAP. My car is half
apart and I need to know what to do. Any
> ideas
appreciated.
Well, I'd say it was to quick to get the engine apart as the
source of the
problem has not yet been evaluated. It's not possible to do the
flush now but
it's maybe worth to have a turbo shop to take the turbos apart
and to replace
the sealings so you'll be sure that not the turbos are the
problem. Also make
sure that the IC are taken off the car and be totally
cleaned from oil. Damn job
but the only way to assure to get rid of any oil
in the intake path.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 Nov 1999 15:31:35 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Went drag racing today, need some opinions !
> New Accell plug
wires
I think I Already mentioned the Accell wires are not recommended on
our cars.
> Blitz SSBC set to 1.05 bar
You do not set the SSBC
to a specific boost level but you use paramters to set
it. They are maybe off
as the SSBC are made for smaller cars with single turbos
(DSM)
>
1/4 mile -
14.521
> 1/4 mile mph - 97.05
With more experience, you
may brake into the 13s... but I doubt low 13s !
> I was hoping for low
13 second times, and I have seen similar cars going
> 13.2 with 60' times
close to mine.
I don't think that they had Accels and a SSBC and you
probably went the too
cheap way with your mods :-/
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 Nov 1999 15:31:38 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
> 1) I replaced the spark plugs
last week. When I did so, I didnt put the
After you checked everything
and you are 120% sure that there is no leak you may
disconnec the battery for
a while to get the car relearn. The leak you had got
the ECU irritated as the
measured air was not the same that went into the intake
plenum and it
adjusted. It may adjust again but it is always better to force the
learning
mode.
> 2) Do our rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE direction as
the front
As already answered, they turn to the same direction as the
front ones.
> 3) Could I get two used 13g turbos off an old automatic
Eclipse and use
The exhaust manifold do not line up as well as the intake
and outlet of the
turbos.
> 4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo Timer
about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
> that when I put it in gear and floor
it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR. It
> only hits .5-.55 BAR when i
SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
> Could the wastegate be
broken or something? Maybe this has to do with my
> 1st question.. Maybe I
have a loose hose somewhere.
You didn't mentioned any boost controller
and therefore the bosot is absolutely
ok for older wastegates.
> 5)
I added a K&N air filter yesterday, and I definately noticed a
>
difference in the pickup..
The ECU will relearn after some miles and with
a boost controller the MAS will
become the bigger restriction as the filter.
You will not see more than 8hp with
a FIPK but all the other stuff stock
!
> way, I am on 9b turbos, the US spec.. not euro spec) How much HP
will a
> boost controller set at 1.02 bar add? (not to the wheels, just
total.. )
About 60hp, depending on the health of the engine.
>
6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the drivetrain... Is that
>
accurate? If so, how much does a smaller pulley help?
Pulley doesn't help
anything as drivetrain has nothing to do with the pulley.
Our accessories are
very low-power consuming and it's not worth to change a
pulley for a 3hp gain
but a possible danger for damage due to the loss of a
harmonic
balancer.
> 7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's have 13g turbos, how much HP
are they rated at?
> (just out of curiosity) and why dont US spec
3kgt's/Stealth's have those
> same turbos?
The difference is that
our EU cars are runned on much higher constant speeds.
The 13G discharge
temperatures are lower than the 9B (very noticeable difference
on the dyno)
but ours do have a little more lag after shifting.
> 8) What QUIET
exhaust would you guys recomend? I'm thinking the HKS dual
> tip exhaust.
The borla would be nice, but its SOO LOUD!
Keep the stock one unless you
go for larger turbos ! Adding a dp and gutting the
precats may help in power
but the stock exhaust is good for more than you have
planned.
> 9)
How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos hold? What would you guys
>
recomend for a streetable car? 15g's?
Wrong question ! You may ask how
much boost can the turbos hold on what rpm. If
you are aiming for a nice
tourque curve the 13g may be a better solution as the
15g do have more lag.
The 15g can hold boost very good up to the redline whily
the 13g also fall
off. There discharge temperature is also going dramatically up
after 15psi of
boost.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 12:11:42 EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Went drag racing today, need some opinions !
Hey Kevin,
Considering you're just now getting started with 1/4
mile drag
racing....you're doing okay.
14.5 sec. in the
1/4 mile with a 2.1 sec. 60ft. time is understandable
considering that you
did NOT mention that you had an aftermarket air intake
system (like K&N
fipk) and NO performance exhaust upgrades. Are we to
understand that
correctly? YOu still have factory air intake system and
factory
exhaust?? I know you gutted your pre-cats and main cat; but what
about
the rest of your exhaust? is it stock?
As for your times: if
you ran a 14.5 1/4 mile @ 97.05mph with a 2.105 60ft.
time; then think about
this.....if you improve on your 60ft. times...if you
can get a 1.7 sec.
60ft. time...your 14.5 sec. 1/4 mile time will drop to
about 13.7sec. 1/4
mile time. For every tenth off of your 60ft. time.....you
can take off
two tenths of your final 1/4 mile time...... So with your
current mods on
your car.....if you bring your 60ft. time down to 1.7 sec.
60ft. times...you
will be running 13.7's in the 1/4!!!!!!! I hope that
makes sense
to you!
When it comes to drag racing at the 1/4 mile track,
it's all about driving
skills, weight distribution, octane gas, launching
skills, etc.
As for your oil cap leaking.....just get a new
factory/stock oil cap (cost is
like $5-$7) as soon as possible......most oil
caps begin to leak after years
and lots of miles.
Do not get
disappointed with your times.....in my opinion you're doing
okay....just
takes practice.....practice.....PRACTICE!!!!!
good luck!!!
Ahmed
"Al-Crazy" - '92 VR4
In a message dated 11/6/99 3:26:11 PM
Central Standard Time,
Kevin@pacarsearch.com
writes:
<< First the car.
91 Stealth TT
Gutted
cat/precats
New NGK plugs gapped to .034"
New Accell plug
wires
60k service just done
Blitz SSBC set to 1.05 bar
Now my best
time
Temp: 64
Relative humidity:
54
60'
-
2.105
330'
- 6.007
1/8 mile
- 9.357
1/8 mile MPH -
73.98
1000'
- 12.185
1/4 mile
- 14.521
1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>From everything I have
seen online this is way too slow for my car. I know
the 60' times were
a little slow as I was having trouble launching. I tried
launching at
5000 - 5500 RPM and dumping the clutch, which was ok but not
neck
snapping. I did launch once trying to slip the clutch but ended
up
toasting the clutch. I was hoping for low 13 second times, and I
have seen
similar cars going 13.2 with 60' times close to mine. What
should I look at
first? The car is running fine, no odd noises,
sputtering or any other
signs. I have noticed the oil cap is leaking
after I finished the 60k mile
service. (including new PCV valve) Could
this be related? Any 1/4 mile
guys out there that can make sense of my
times, please speak up.
Thank you,
Kevin Schappell >>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 12:14:36 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
If you set this up like a statics
problem, if there is one force applied at
one side, the amount of breaking
force = the force applied x the coefficient
of friction of the pads/rotor
surface. If only one force=F is applied to
one side, the non-moving
side has an equal but opposite force X its pad/
rotor coefficient. If
there are two forces, the same dynamics apply.
Although the two forces as
vectors cancel each other out, there are internal
compressive forces equal to
2 x F. This means the equal and opposite force
= double the
original. Hence the two piston is double the clamping force of
a single
piston. The areas of frictional contact (pads) stay the same, but
the
force is doubled, assuming the same pad area and coefficients.
I have not
thought about this in about 6 years during my Engineering
schooling, so some
of my ideas
may be in error. However, this is a relatively simple
example and the basic
theory should be correct.
Sam 95 VR4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To:
Muratokcu@aol.com <
Muratokcu@aol.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, November 05, 1999 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91
to '94+)
>I am sorry to say, but you are wrong. Double the
area, double the force.
>It does not matter if the pistons are opposing or
not.
>
>Take care,
>Kevin Schappell
>Auto
Answers
>
http://www.PACarSearch.com>If you
love cars, check out
>
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead>------------Still
under construction---------------
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: <
Muratokcu@aol.com>
>To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Sent:
Friday, November 05, 1999 10:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
>
>
>> keep in mind, the pistons are
opposing. Therefore, the clamping force is
>> equal between one or two
piston calipers even though the piston area is
>> doubled.
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 13:00:43 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: wheels
They do not have a web address. Their phone number is
1800-884-4349. Look
in the classified section of www.3si.org for
details and classified listing.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Perry Glover <
pglover@bznet.com>
To: Sam Shelat
<
sshelat@erols.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 07, 1999 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: wheels
>What is
the web address of the site ?????
>
>
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: Sam Shelat <
sshelat@erols.com>
>To: <
pglover@bznet.com>
>Sent: Friday,
November 05, 1999 9:23 PM
>Subject: wheels
>
>
>>
Check arrowtire. They list the wheels in the classified part of
3si
site.
>>
>>
Sam
>>
>>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 Nov 1999 15:40:02 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Rear brake change, piston theory
Sam Shelat wrote:
> If you set
this up like a statics problem, if there is one force applied at
> one
side, the amount of breaking force = the force applied x the coefficient
>
of friction of the pads/rotor surface. If only one force=F is applied
to
> one side, the non-moving side has an equal but opposite force X its
pad/
> rotor coefficient. If there are two forces, the same dynamics
apply.
- ----You are right about all of that.
> Although the
two forces as vectors cancel each other out, there are internal
>
compressive forces equal to 2 x F. This means the equal and opposite
force
> = double the original. Hence the two piston is double the
clamping force of
> a single piston. The areas of frictional contact
(pads) stay the same, but
> the force is doubled, assuming the same pad
area and coefficients.
- ----But you went wrong here. Re-read the
first paragraph. There are no
mysterious INTERNAL forces or
monkey-motion. If you press on
one side, there is an equal and opposite
force on the OTHER side,
UNLESS the other side's force is LESSER in which
case the other side is
being pushed (accelerated by force difference)
AWAY. It is not forced away;
the brake disc is kept centered because
the forces are equal and opposite.
The OTHER side consists of either an
immovable wall,
or a movable piston. The force applied is in either
case
exactly the SAME, and must equal the force applied by the FIRST
piston.
Multiple pistons allow the opposite "wall" to float
outward, so as the pads
wear the brake DISC stays centered rather than being
forced toward the
immovable side as the immovable side's pad wears
down...note how Mitsu
single piston rear, the whole CALIPER floats to avoid
this problem; while the
FRONT calipers are solid-mounted -- the opposing
pistons float on the immovable
(centered) rotor.
Jack
Tertadian
> I have not thought about this in about 6 years during my
Engineering schooling
> Sam 95 VR4
>
> From: Kevin <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
> >I
am sorry to say, but you are wrong. Double the area, double the
force.
> >It does not matter if the pistons are opposing or
not.
>
>
> >From: <
Muratokcu@aol.com>
> >> keep
in mind, the pistons are opposing. Therefore, the clamping force is
>
>> equal between one or two piston calipers even though the piston area
is
> >> doubled.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:35:05 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New To List/Few Questions..
>Bah, I didnt spend 3 hours on it. :) I
pulled out my drill and drilled the
>original air box OFF of the MAS, then
used vice grips :) Anyone want my
>air box? :)
Lucky you, I didn't
have any power tools available to me :(.
But after hearing the responses
regarding the honey-comb pieces, are they
available individually so I can
replace the ones that got screwed up? If
so, can I get them from the
dealer, or will I have to go someplace else? If
someplace else, any
ideas or recommendations?
Thanks,
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 21:59:54 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Rear brake change, piston theory
Sorry about the second
part. My father is a Mech Eng. and I spoke to him
right after
I
posted that. I am an electrical eng., but no excuses, I should
have
thought it out more.
I discussed it with my dad, and he said the
other pistons are probably there
to provide
more even pad wear by keeping
the force more evenly distributed.
Oh well an
attempt
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: xwing
<
xwing@execpc.com>
To: Sirius
3000GT Mail List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 07, 1999 1:44 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Rear brake change,
piston theory
>
>
>Sam Shelat
wrote:
>
>> If you set this up like a statics problem, if there
is one force applied
at
>> one side, the amount of breaking force =
the force applied x the
coefficient
>> of friction of the pads/rotor
surface. If only one force=F is applied to
>> one side, the
non-moving side has an equal but opposite force X its pad/
>> rotor
coefficient. If there are two forces, the same dynamics
apply.
>
>----You are right about all of that.
>
>>
Although the two forces as vectors cancel each other out, there
are
internal
>> compressive forces equal to 2 x F. This means
the equal and opposite
force
>> = double the original. Hence
the two piston is double the clamping force
of
>> a single
piston. The areas of frictional contact (pads) stay the
same,
but
>> the force is doubled, assuming the same pad area and
coefficients.
>
>----But you went wrong here. Re-read the
first paragraph. There are no
>mysterious INTERNAL forces or
monkey-motion. If you press on
>one side, there is an equal and
opposite force on the OTHER side,
>UNLESS the other side's force is LESSER
in which case the other side is
>being pushed (accelerated by force
difference) AWAY. It is not forced
away;
>the brake disc is kept
centered because the forces are equal and opposite.
>
>The OTHER
side consists of either an immovable wall,
>or a movable piston. The
force applied is in either case
>exactly the SAME, and must equal the
force applied by the FIRST piston.
>
>Multiple pistons allow the
opposite "wall" to float outward, so as the pads
>wear the brake
DISC stays centered rather than being forced toward the
>immovable side as
the immovable side's pad wears down...note how Mitsu
>single piston rear,
the whole CALIPER floats to avoid this problem; while
the
>FRONT
calipers are solid-mounted -- the opposing pistons float on
the
immovable
>(centered) rotor.
>
>Jack
Tertadian
>
>> I have not thought about this in about 6 years
during my Engineering
schooling
>> Sam 95
VR4
>>
>> From: Kevin <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
>>
>I am sorry to say, but you are wrong. Double the area, double
the
force.
>> >It does not matter if the pistons are opposing or
not.
>>
>>
>> >From: <
Muratokcu@aol.com>
>> >>
keep in mind, the pistons are opposing. Therefore, the clamping
force
is
>> >> equal between one or two piston calipers even
though the piston area
is
>> >> doubled.
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:18:00 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brake Piston Theory...
Sam.... This post makes more sense than any other
I've read in this
thread. Many times the most simplistic answer is the
most correct.
Thanx....
- -Gil
Sorry about the second part.
My father is a Mech Eng. and I spoke to him
right after
I posted
that. I am an electrical eng., but no excuses, I should have
thought it
out more.
I discussed it with my dad, and he said the other pistons are
probably there
to provide
more even pad wear by keeping the force more
evenly distributed.
Oh well an attempt
Sam
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:24:15 -0800
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Honeycombs was
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Benson;
Re the honeycombs:
wrecking yards are always a good place to start and
chances are they haven't
a clue and may sell cheap...on the other hand you
might have to buy the
entire MAS if they are $#i+heads. Get a dealers price
first so you have
an idea of what they're worth but I expect not cheap.
I have heard that
there have been favorable removals of these in non TT
applications, but in
TT's it is usually the pits. Even in the NA
applications, it's a hit and miss
thing.
Best
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Benson "elmagoo" Russell <
benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 07, 1999 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
>>Bah, I didnt spend 3 hours on it. :) I pulled out
my drill and drilled the
>>original air box OFF of the MAS, then used
vice grips :) Anyone want my
>>air box? :)
>
>Lucky you, I
didn't have any power tools available to me :(.
>
>But after hearing
the responses regarding the honey-comb pieces, are they
>available
individually so I can replace the ones that got screwed up? If
>so,
can I get them from the dealer, or will I have to go someplace
else?
If
>someplace else, any ideas or
recommendations?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Latuh fuh
U,
>Benson
>
benson@2015.com>
>"-Do you
ever have second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 20:39:29 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake Piston Theory...
The reason for opposing pistons is actually
both. That is, it applies more
evenly distibuted pressure across the
pad surface to the disc, and it also
allows floating without having to float
the caliper.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Sam.... This post makes more sense than any other
I've read in this
> thread. Many times the most simplistic answer is
the most correct.
> Thanx....
> -Gil
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Nov 1999 01:58:44 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Went drag racing today, need some opinions
!
Roger,
I'm not sure what you are recommending for
wires but I hope it's not Magnecor. I'm
not in the business of making
spark plug wires, and I'm no electrical engineer, but what
I do know about
electricity is that the less resistance and voltage drop the better.
It's
common knowledge (even Magnecor admits it) that their voltage drop isn't very
low,
from what I've heard they compare to stock wires on our cars. At
this level of
modifications I doubt any wires would help much. There
are 11 second DSMs running
factory wires. I myself have run 12s
(something I recall you and others telling me I
couldn't do) utilizing Accel
wires, and I'm 99.99 percent sure that Mike Mahaffey runs
Accel also.
As far as the boost controller goes maybe we should talk to Jack
Tertadian
about running low 12s with a bleeder valve. I have the
feeling it's more than just
driver error, something's not right. I've
run 13.36 with just a filter and pump gas, no
other mods at all. Worse
time ever was a 14.07 and that was with missed gears, pump gas
and just a
filter for mods. Just recently I ran 13.21 with a slipping clutch,
failing
2nd gear synchronizer and pump gas, my best 60' was 1.86 if I recall
correctly.
I don't want to scare him, but I think a decent
running car with similar mods should
run a slowest 1/4 of 14.5, not a
best. The only way bad driving would make that much of
a difference
should be if it was so bad he knew it was a problem and he probably
wouldn't
have written in asking for help. I would suggest checking the boost
controller
install and also checking to see what kind of boost it's actually
making, preferably
with a nice boost gauge. What kind of altitude are
you at?
I really don't want to step on anyone's toes but I
think such comments should be
stated more like the opinions they are.
Wording like this would suggest that it's
common knowledge that Accel wires
are junk, that's just not the case. The only reason I
would say that
low 13s aren't possible is given the facts that we have in this
particular
situation, his car isn't running well. In my opinion, with more
experience
and a well running car, low 13s and high 12s are a
possibility.
Jason
http://www.erols.com/danebar>
>
> New Accell plug wires
>
> I think I Already mentioned the
Accell wires are not recommended on our cars.
>
> > Blitz SSBC
set to 1.05 bar
>
> You do not set the SSBC to a specific boost
level but you use paramters to set
> it. They are maybe off as the SSBC
are made for smaller cars with single turbos
> (DSM)
>
> >
1/4 mile -
14.521
> > 1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>
> With more
experience, you may brake into the 13s... but I doubt low 13s !
>
>
> I was hoping for low 13 second times, and I have seen similar cars
going
> > 13.2 with 60' times close to mine.
>
> I don't
think that they had Accels and a SSBC and you probably went the too
>
cheap way with your mods :-/
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
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