--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #325
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Wednesday,
November 3 1999 Volume 01 : Number
325
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:46:23 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)"
<
MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
After the Drivers School a few
weeks ago, I was surprised at the amount of
brake dust on the rear
wheels. They must really be contributing to
overall
braking!!!!
I'm wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake
calipers from '91(single
piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it cause
me any braking problems
if I leave the front unchanged??
Also, when
looking for rotors, I noticed they list different part numbers
for the two
different years. This leads me to believe that they are
different
sizes.
I would then have to upgrade the rotors and the
calipers.
Keep in mind that I can't change the fronts because of wheel
clearance
problems.
Does anyone see problems with
this??
Thanks,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:08:32 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
Yes! The Rears on the 94+ are
about 1/4" larger in diameter and about 1/8"
thicker.
The wheels clear both ways. The only modification you need will
be to
cut/remove the dust shield.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Wendlandt, Mark
(MN51)
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 9:46
AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
After the Drivers School a few
weeks ago, I was surprised at the amount of
brake dust on the rear
wheels. They must really be contributing to
overall
braking!!!!
I'm wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake
calipers from '91(single
piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it cause
me any braking problems
if I leave the front unchanged??
Also, when
looking for rotors, I noticed they list different part numbers
for the two
different years. This leads me to believe that they are
different
sizes.
I would then have to upgrade the rotors and the
calipers.
Keep in mind that I can't change the fronts because of wheel
clearance
problems.
Does anyone see problems with
this??
Thanks,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager: 612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 11:03:32 -0500
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <
WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Reply: Road Racing prep
Just a few notes old poop:
The new carbon
fiber hood from GT-PRO will allow for a front strut brace
which could be of
significant help to our beasts.
Get those racing seats. In addition to a
inexpensive (relatively) way to
lose a good amount of weight I can't imagine
you auto-x in a our stock
seats? I'd imagine your all over the place. It also
really doesn't take away
from the streetability...takes me about 10 minutes
to change my drivers
front seat to a race seat and yank the passenger seat
out. Same goes for the
reverse.
Finally, maybe you should consider
13gs. In a conversation with Mr. JT he
told me the 13g's housing is really
the same as the 9bs, just different
guts. So unless your dealership was
specifically fixing one of the turbos
(which shouldn't be an issue with fresh
ones) they won't notice. Even if
they were working on the turbos, they would
have to specifically try to
figure out that they were not 9b's and know the
tag codes. Perhaps if they
did found out (seriously doubt it) you could claim
they were stock...the
Euro specs have 13gs, and the 13gs are straight from
Mitsubishi. Your going
to be way out of the 9b's efficiency zone, especially
after you buy that
manual boost controller. Plus of course the added benefit
of boost to the
redline. Only downer is that eventually the upgrade bug might
bite ya in the
butt for 15gs.
Gavin
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:stealth@starnet.net]
Sent:
Saturday, October 30, 1999 10:14 PM
To:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.netSubject: Re: Road
Racing prep
Yep. I attribute all my success to the car. I just hang on
for dear life,
but I'll be playing with the big boys soon.
>>
blah blah blah big post blah blah
>>
ending....
Thanks.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:29:22 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
>After the Drivers School
a few weeks ago, I was surprised at the amount of
>brake dust on the rear
wheels. They must really be contributing to overall
>braking!!!! I'm
wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake calipers
from
'91(single
>piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it cause me
any braking problems
>if I leave the front unchanged??
I wonder if
the newer rear brake calipers help all that much. The rear pads
on 1st gens
are much bigger and thicker than the 2nd gens, and I know that
MY rear
brakes don't work for squat. I've heard the same complaint from
other 2nd
gens. The older pads are bigger. by about 50%, it seems -- I know
because
Porterfield sent me the wrong set and, compared to 2nd gens, they
are longer
and thicker.
Brad says: " The Rears on the 94+ are about 1/4"
larger in diameter and
about 1/8"
thicker. The wheels
clear both ways." Makes sense. The thicker rotor
also means a
thinner pad and less pad material.
If your rears are actually working,
maybe what you oughta do is just get a
set of Porterfield R4 pads for the
rears, and leave the calipers the way
they are. Maybe what *I* oughta do is
install a set of 1st gen rear brakes.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop
me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:39:13 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Reply: Road Racing prep
>
>The new carbon fiber hood
from GT-PRO will allow for a front strut brace
>which could be of
significant help to our beasts.
Aha! That's good to
know.
>
>Get those racing seats. In addition to a inexpensive
(relatively) way to
>lose a good amount of weight I can't imagine you
auto-x in a our stock
>seats?
Yes, but not often. Just to keep my
hand in.
Compared to open track, auto-X is a waste of a Sunday
afternoon.
I'd imagine your all over the place. It also really doesn't
take away
>from the streetability...takes me about 10 minutes to change my
drivers
>front seat to a race seat and yank the passenger seat out. Same
goes for the
>reverse.
Good point. What seat do you use?
>
>Finally, maybe you should consider 13gs <snip>.
I
appreciate your comments, but I'm saving 13Gs for next year.
The car is
already faster than I am. I just need about 400 hp to keep up
with the faster
cars in my next class. There are several inferior cars out
there with a
higher top end (C5s, for example), so I need the additonal hp
to catch 'em on
straights.
But I don't want to build a car that's so fast I will get
myself in
trouble. I'm hanging on for dear life as it is, and I have to
improve my
braking and driving skills before I consider going up to 550 or
600 hp.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:48:16 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
(Todd, Re:
3000GT/Stealth)
Well then, for '94-95 cars, it sounds like the next step
is to see if Todd can
supply someone with a Datalogger with the new style
connector. How about it
Todd, are you up for a little R&D? If
it really only requires a different
connector, then the work should be
relatively easy. How much arm-twisting do
you need;)? I'm sure
there are plenty of folks willing to beta test it on their
'94-95
cars.
> I don't know exactly what protocol Mitsubishi used in the
'94-95 cars, but
> under my hood it says "OBDI Certified" and
the EASE OBD-II scanner didn't
> work on any of the 3 OBDII protocols it
tried. What I'm wondering is will a
> scanner like the TMO
datalogger (
www.tmo.com) work on the car with
a
> different connector. Unfortunately I will never know because I
have already
> bought a Snap-On MT2500. I need to chase down a
Snap-On truck and buy the
> OBDII connector for it and see if it works
with my MT2500's old '92 Import
> ROM. If it does, then it would
probably be worthwhile for someone to disect
> a scanner like the TMO
logger and try to get it to work but I haven't done
> it yet, so don't go
cutting up your $300 datalogger quite yet:)
>
> jeff
> '95
Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
- --
I'm
just driving this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:09:00 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Reply: Road Racing prep
13gs will not give you 550-600. It
will just let you make good power to
redline.
Just get a good boost
controller and hide it or remove solenoid when you
bring
it in for
service. I have a few mods, and so far no problems from dealer.
I
can
not run away from a C5 though!
Sam 95 VR4 K&N, HKS SSBOV,
Stillen DP, Apex AVCr,
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Wallis, Gavin <
WallisG@MWAA.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Reply: Road Racing
prep
>>
>>The new carbon fiber hood from GT-PRO will
allow for a front strut brace
>>which could be of significant help to
our beasts.
>
>Aha! That's good to know.
>>
>>Get
those racing seats. In addition to a inexpensive (relatively) way
to
>>lose a good amount of weight I can't imagine you auto-x in a our
stock
>>seats?
>
>Yes, but not often. Just to keep my hand
in.
>Compared to open track, auto-X is a waste of a Sunday
afternoon.
>
>I'd imagine your all over the place. It also really
doesn't take away
>>from the streetability...takes me about 10 minutes
to change my drivers
>>front seat to a race seat and yank the passenger
seat out. Same goes for
the
>>reverse.
>
>Good point.
What seat do you use?
>>
>>Finally, maybe you should consider
13gs <snip>.
>
>I appreciate your comments, but I'm saving
13Gs for next year.
>
>The car is already faster than I am. I just
need about 400 hp to keep up
>with the faster cars in my next class. There
are several inferior cars out
>there with a higher top end (C5s, for
example), so I need the additonal hp
>to catch 'em on
straights.
>
>But I don't want to build a car that's so fast I will
get myself in
>trouble. I'm hanging on for dear life as it is, and I have
to improve my
>braking and driving skills before I consider going up to
550 or 600 hp.
>
>Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:38:57 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
I asked this question of Todd a few
years back. Supposedly the protocol is
different for the 94-95
cars. This was the same story told me by two
different ODBII diagnostic
tool manufacturers.
The latter two individuals claimed that it would be
possible to reverse
engineer the protocol but would take some effort and they
simply had no
market payback.
At that time Todd didn't seem too
interested. So, I dropped the whole
endeavor. If someone else can
come up with something for the newer ECMs it
would surely be
great.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> (Todd, Re: 3000GT/Stealth)
>
> Well
then, for '94-95 cars, it sounds like the next step is to
> see if Todd
can
> supply someone with a Datalogger with the new style
connector.
> How about it
> Todd, are you up for a little
R&D? If it really only requires a different
> connector, then
the work should be relatively easy. How much
> arm-twisting
do
> you need;)? I'm sure there are plenty of folks willing to
beta
> test it on their
> '94-95 cars.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Nov 1999 17:50:50 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
Perhaps Jeff would be
willing to contact Snap-on. Since he paid for an
expensive scan tool
that works with his "OBD I" '95 car, maybe he has some clout
and
can get some info on the actual protocol they use.
Does anybody have any
idea how we could get the protocol info from Mitsubishi?
"Barry
E. King" wrote:
>
> I asked this question of Todd a few years
back. Supposedly the protocol is
> different for the 94-95
cars. This was the same story told me by two
> different ODBII
diagnostic tool manufacturers.
>
> The latter two individuals
claimed that it would be possible to reverse
> engineer the protocol but
would take some effort and they simply had no
> market payback.
>
> At that time Todd didn't seem too interested. So, I dropped the
whole
> endeavor. If someone else can come up with something for the
newer ECMs it
> would surely be great.
- --
I'm just driving
this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:34:14 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
It would be interesting to know how much
stopping the rears contribute to the
overall braking. Now that I have the
Porsche/Brembo combo with the Pagid
black pads I would guess it's probably
80/20 front/rear. Brad recommended
converting to the 94+ rears --- the two
piston calipers probably have constantly
more stopping power [ twice the
clamping force ], the question is, how much
do you need or how much is
wasted.
Someone I talked to mentioned a Vette system [ Excess systems ???
] that uses
two calipers per rotor, one front one rear. I have no idea how
you would cool
these systems once you got them hot plus the unsprung weight
gets excessive.
BTY someone asked [ Merrit I think ] if you could put the
front four piston caliper
on the rear. I played around a little and feel that
it can be done but you would have
to completely remove the rear rotor and E
brake and put the front rotor and caliper
on the rear. That would require an
adapter to mount the caliper, not a big deal,
and some kind of mechanical
spot caliper [ Wilwood sells one for $70 ] plus it's
attendant brackets and
linkage, a fairly big deal. It would be an interesting
project, but,
can the additional braking force be utilized.
Jim
Berry
> >After the Drivers School a few weeks ago,
I was surprised at the amount of
> >brake dust on the rear
wheels. They must really be contributing to overall
>
>braking!!!! I'm wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake calipers
from
> '91(single
> >piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it
cause me any braking problems
> >if I leave the front
unchanged??
>
> I wonder if the newer rear brake calipers help all
that much. The rear pads
> on 1st gens are much bigger and thicker
than the 2nd gens, and I know that
> MY rear brakes don't work for squat.
I've heard the same complaint from
> other 2nd gens. The older pads are
bigger. by about 50%, it seems -- I know
> because Porterfield sent me the
wrong set and, compared to 2nd gens, they
> are longer and
thicker.
>
> Brad says: " The Rears on the 94+ are about
1/4" larger in diameter and
> about 1/8"
>
thicker. The wheels clear both ways." Makes sense. The
thicker rotor
> also means a thinner pad and less pad material.
>
> If your rears are actually working, maybe what you oughta do is just
get a
> set of Porterfield R4 pads for the rears, and leave the calipers
the way
> they are. Maybe what *I* oughta do is install a set of 1st gen
rear brakes.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:43:10 -0700
From: "CEskelsen" <
cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch failure?
I have never experienced a clutch failure and am
wondering if my car has an
ailing clutch or something else. If I
accelerate at a reasonable rate, the
car runs normally. If I am
enjoying my on-ramp experience, my car
"stutters," especially at
the high torque range (3,500 to 5,000 rpms). Any
opinions are greatly
apperciated.
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
60k (service completed two
weeks ago)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:55:02 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Knock
again
Hi,
In what RPM range do our cars knock the most? Torque
peak?
I have been recommended to turn knock sensor off over 4500
rpm's
(programmable after market system) does that sound
dangerous?
Also heard that HKS sells a very good knock sensor/warning
device (cost
~280$). It's also possible to plug in an ear phone into the
device and
listen at different frequencies while driving. Anybody tested
this?
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:19:30 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Ignition
system
Hi,
I'm investigating a new ignition and fuel injection
system for my car but
I'm not really sure what to look for when it comes to
the ignition part.
For example one of the systems I'm looking at, say
that they have 120 mJ
spark energy at the plugs and the coils are always
loaded to 8.5 break amps
and that's enough to run .5 to .6 gap on the plugs
up to 2 bar boost (3 bar
map sensor). I have no idea if this is true or
not.
I would like to hear numbers (voltage, amp, mJ etc) both for our
stock
system and also (and more important) our wish list.
What kind of
numbers would our dream ignition system have???? I really need
more knowledge
about this.
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Nov 1999 07:46:03 -0700
From: "O'Krancy, Michael" <
mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: WANTED: Bra for a 91 stealth twin turbo.
This message is in
MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or
all of this message may not be legible.
-
------_=_NextPart_000_01BF260A.26B590E8
Content-Type: text/plain
Does
anyone have a bra for a 91 stealth twin turbo for sale or know of any
vendors
that I could purchase one from? I'd prefer a new one so vendor
names
would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
mike
-
------_=_NextPart_000_01BF260A.26B590E8
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-
------_=_NextPart_000_01BF260A.26B590E8--
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web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Nov 1999 07:29:31 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch failure?
Cory...
PLEASE don't cross post to the
starnet list and our list. Send separate
messages. Thanks.
On your
clutch question...clutch failure is usually signaled by slipping.
You would
normally experience increasing revs, with less than normal
increase in speed.
This usually occurs under load.
Stuttering, missing, etc. is more likely
related to your ignition system
(plugs, wires, etc.). I tend to be VERY
suspicious when problems start
happening after dealer servicing. Of course,
they rarely admit any
involvement in the problem and are more than willing to
charge you to
diagnose the problem.
I suggest you pull your front
plugs, check the gap. Check to see that the
spark plug wire boots are
seated.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: CEskelsen [
mailto:cesk@redrock.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 02, 1999 9:43 PM
To: 3000 list; stealth@starnet.net
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch failure?
I have never experienced a clutch failure and
am wondering if my car has an
ailing clutch or something else. If I
accelerate at a reasonable rate, the
car runs normally. If I am
enjoying my on-ramp experience, my car
"stutters," especially at
the high torque range (3,500 to 5,000 rpms). Any
opinions are greatly
apperciated.
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
60k (service completed two
weeks ago)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:42:28 -0600
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\"
Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
WANTED: Bra for a 91 stealth twin turbo.
I was looking into getting
a bra for my 3000 for long distance trips (I
drive up to Chicago every now
and then, and the front end of my car looks
like a fly swatter that went
through an insects nest afterwards :). I was
at the dealer picking up
my car from an oil change, and they had them right
there on their parts
department shelf. Said their about $150. So I'd check
with a
dealer in yer area and see if they have / can get them.
Latufh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #325
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