--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #322
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Saturday, October 30 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
322
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:17:11 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: track times from last weekend
Hey everyone,
For those that
are interested.... Some of the "Minnesota 3/S" racers went
to the drag
strip last Sunday. We all did pretty good. If your curious
about
our times, you can check them out at:
http://www.mn3s.org/drag-times2.htmllater,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:32:16 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Throttle body adjustment screw
a trick the DSM guys use to counter this
is to set the idle according to the
adjustment procedure in the manual
(involves a screw near the throttle plate
linkage, the TPS, the idle
adustment screw and i believe the ISC, not sure.)
after the idle is perfect,
just use a some silicone sealant and squirt a
little on the idle adjustment
scew so it won't back out (not too much, or
you wouldn't be able adjust it
again if need be.)
Omar
92 r/t
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
> Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 2:14 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Throttle body adjustment
screw
>
>
> Has anybody else blown out a throttle body
adjustment screw?
> I've never heard
> of such a story so I thought
I'd relay mine...
>
> The other day, I floored my car and heard a
noticable pop. The
> car started
> running funny and whistled
under boost so I thought I blew off a
> hose because of
> high
boost. Well I opened the hood and my buddy notices a big
> vacuum
sound
> coming from the throttle body. There was a big open hole
just above the
> throttle position sensor, the hole was threaded. We
looked
> around for a plug or
> screw but couldn't find it, so he
made a plug with a small bolt
> and electrical
> tape. I
turned off my boost controller and it held fine up to
> 6psi. I
tried to
> insert an 8mm and a 10mm bolt temporarily and discovered that
the
> hole is 9mm.
>
> Anyway, I called Bill at Norco Mitsu to
ask if I could buy this
> screw or if I
> had to buy the whole
throttle body which is what I feared. Off
> the top of his
>
head he said there is no listing for the 3000GT, but there was a
> listing
for the
> Eclispe and they are the same. Anyway, the screw and
rubber
> O-ring arrived
> yesterday. It is plastic and lists
for over $11! Bill charged
> me just over $1
> for the screw
and $1 for the O-ring.
>
> It is an idle adjustment screw. I
threaded it in all the way, but the car
> barely idled until I backed it
out some.
>
> Just a little FYI...
> Ken
> --
>
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 15:57:26 -0400
From: Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: DRB II cable for 94 Dodge Stealth R/T turbo
Hey
guys,
Anyone know where I can get the proper cable for my DRB II to be
used on my
94 R/T turbo? My DRB II works well on my dad's 92 R/T turbo
(I have the
Mitsubishi adapter) and it works great on the First gen Talons
(and
Eclipse's) but my 94 R/T has the newer style DLC.
According to
my factory service manual it shows that the DRB II *can* be
used on the 94
R/T turbo but I need the special (one year only) cable for
it. My car
has the same DLC as the new 99 cars so unfortunately my Mitsu
adapter does
me no good.
Any ideas on where to find the cable? The dealer I used
to wrench for
cannot seem to locate the cable in their Miller catalogs...I
thought about
calling OTC and asking them. What do you guys
suggest?
Thanks!
Rick
94 R/T turbo
6
speed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:20:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
> > In response to Ken's
last post, there is also a
> > copmany that has a OBD II scan-tool that
runs for
> > $449. and they are including FREE ground shipping.
>
> This is a good package if you have more than one
> > vehicle of
different makes. It includes OBD I
> > connectors too. Here is the
link:
> > <
http://www.autoxray.com> This
package includes
> all
> > the extra connectors but a basic one
should run
> about
> > $299. Hope this helps.
>
=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2016573246@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at
http://auctions.yahoo.comFor
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 17:45:10 -0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
'94 and most '95 cars are
not OBDII complaint. They have the OBDII
hardware, but the firmware is
different. To see if your '95 is OBDII
complaint, look on the underside
of the hood for a federal emissions
sticker. At the end of one of them
in tiny letters it'll say "OBDI
certified" if your car is not OBDII. If
this is the case, none of the
scanners you listed will work. I made the
mistake of buying the EASE
scanner thinking it'd work anyway, but it
didn't. The only tools I have
found that will work on the '94-95 cars
(OBDI firmware, OBDII hardware) is
the OTC 3337 and Snap-On MT-2500.
Unfortunately both are very expensive
($2200 for an import-only version of
the Snap-On Tool, not including
datalogging software.) Another option
is a MUT-II which the dealer uses,
but it's not generally for sale to the
public and is supposed to be over
$2000 also. Other than those three,
those of us with the mutant-OBD cars
are pretty screwed.
In summary,
'94-95 cars are NOT OBDII compliant in any way, ISO
or
otherwise.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh
<
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
Team3S <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Friday, October 29, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II
Scan software
> This may be old news, but it is good news to folks
with modified 2nd gen
cars.
>
> Most of us know about the
Datalogger that Todd Day has created. It is
extremely
> useful
for monitoring engine parameters and tuning a car. Unfortunately
it
only
> works with '91-93 3000GT's since in '94 they went to the ODB II
style
> connector.
>
> While browsing the web recently, I came
across a few OBD II Diagnostic
> utilities. There are numerous
handheld tools with small displays as well
as PC
> Software
tools. The most interesting software tools I saw
were:
>
http://www.easesim.com/products.htm>
http://www.baumtools.com/obd2scan.htm>
http://www.autotap.com/autotap.html>
All of them are about the price of Todd's Datalogger, under $400, but
the
last
> one currently does not work with Asian vehicles.
The most interesting
one is
> the first from EASE Diagnostics.
Their Personal Basic OBD II Scan Tool
sells
> for $295 (software &
cable) while the Personal Delux OBD II Scan Tool
sells for
>
$395. They also sell OBD I versions for about the same
price.
>
> Has anyone with a 2nd gen car tried using an OBD
II
diagnostic/scan/datalogger
> tool yet? Can anyone confirm that
the '94 and '95 diagnostic ports
actually
> conform to the OBD II ISO
standard (everything from '96 on must conform by
law)?
>
>
--
> Drive faster, it is later than you think!
>
> Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 19:15:35 EDT
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.comSubject: Team3S: 6
speed shift thud (again..sorry guys)
Okay, If I attempt to
shift between 4k and 6k RPM I usually get no
problems.
BUT anything under 4k if I shift, I get the tranny "thud"
underneath. I
have attempted the clutch pedal adjustmen in which you
raise or lower the
height of the pedal from the firewall. This has
given me no success.
What else can I
do??
Shannon 95 Twin Turbo 6
speed. Also,
sometimes I get
smooth fluid shifting, and others I get a dry feeling notchy
shifing, any
ideas here??
Also, sometimes it is hard for my tranny to shift into
1st or reverse at
idle any ideas
here?
thanks.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:25:03 -0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
That won't work with
our cars. We don't use the Ford, GM, or Chrysler SCI
OBDI
interfaces. I've already e-mailed autoxray and here's the response
I
got from them.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: William J.
Miller <
wjm@autoxray.com>
To:
Jeff <
spydervr4@home.com>; <
support@iitems.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
August 04, 1999 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: Scantool
> Sorry
Jeff:
>
> I don't think our scanner will do the trick. But
keep an eye on the
website
> for future products that will handle your
car.
>
> thanks for your inquiry
>
>
bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff <
spydervr4@home.com>
> To:
support@iitems.com <
support@iitems.com>
> Date:
Wednesday, August 04, 1999 1:52 AM
> Subject:
Scantool
>
>
> >I'm interested in purchasing a scan tool
for my car for datalogging
> purposes
> >(to a laptop). I
have been looking for quite a while and I haven't found
> >anything
compatible. I have a 1995 Mitsubishi (ISO) 3000GT that is OBDI
>
>certified but has a OBDII connector. I have tried hooking up a
OBDII
> >scanner and it does not work. Do you have a product that
can do what I
> >want? If possible, I need to be able to monitor
in realtime, on a
laptop,
> >RPM, o2 sensor, timing advance, knock
sum, and injector pulse width. Let
> me
> >know -
thanks!
> >
> >jeff
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder
VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S List
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Friday, October 29, 1999 4:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Datalogger & OBD II
Scan software
> > > In response to Ken's last post, there is
also a
> > > copmany that has a OBD II scan-tool that runs
for
> > > $449. and they are including FREE ground shipping.
>
> > This is a good package if you have more than one
> > >
vehicle of different makes. It includes OBD I
> > > connectors too.
Here is the link:
> > > <
http://www.autoxray.com> This
package includes
> > all
> > > the extra connectors but a
basic one should run
> > about
> > > $299. Hope this
helps.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 16:40:01 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
Hi Jeff,
>
> '94 and most '95 cars are not OBDII complaint. They have the
OBDII
> hardware, but the firmware is different. To see if your '95
is OBDII
> complaint, look on the underside of the hood for a federal
emissions
> sticker. At the end of one of them in tiny letters it'll
say "OBDI
> certified" if your car is not OBDII. If this is the
case, none of the
> scanners you listed will work. I made the
mistake of buying the EASE
> scanner thinking it'd work anyway, but it
didn't. The only tools I have
> found that will work on the '94-95
cars (OBDI firmware, OBDII hardware) is
> the OTC 3337 and Snap-On
MT-2500. Unfortunately both are very expensive
> ($2200 for an
import-only version of the Snap-On Tool, not including
> datalogging
software.) Another option is a MUT-II which the dealer uses,
> but
it's not generally for sale to the public and is supposed to be over
>
$2000 also. Other than those three, those of us with the mutant-OBD
cars
> are pretty screwed.
>
> In summary, '94-95 cars are
NOT OBDII compliant in any way, ISO or
> otherwise.
This is a
bummer. You're saying that Mitsu used a standard OBD I protocol
for
years '91-'93, and ISO standard OBD II for '96+ (late '95+), but
used a
non-standard or proprietary protocol for '94-'95? Do you know
what the '94-'95
protocol is? Is it OBD I protocol with an OBD II
connector? Can we use an OBD
I scan tool just by changing the
connector?
This is bad news since I plan to upgrade my '91 to a
'94-'95. This is good info
for the FAQ when we sort it
out...
Thanks,
Ken
- --
I'm just driving this way to piss you
off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 16:49:11 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 6 speed shift thud (again..sorry guys)]]
This annoying
problem has me stumped too. Sometimes it shifts perfectly smooth
&
easy. Other times it feels as if the clutch is not fully released (with
the
pedal pushed to the floor) and that the clutch is slightly dragging, thus
making
it very difficult to shift into gear. I currently suspect that
the clutch
vacuum assist is intermittently bad, maybe it has a
leak.
Good luck to us both,
Ken
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
>
Okay, If I attempt to shift between 4k and 6k RPM I
usually get no
> problems.
> BUT anything under 4k if I shift,
I get the tranny "thud" underneath. I
> have attempted the clutch
pedal adjustmen in which you raise or lower the
> height of the pedal from
the firewall. This has given me no success.
> What else can I
do??
>
Shannon 95 Twin Turbo 6
speed. Also,
> sometimes I get
smooth fluid shifting, and others I get a dry feeling notchy
> shifing,
any ideas here??
>
> Also, sometimes it is hard for my tranny
to shift into 1st or reverse at
> idle any ideas
here? thanks.
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm-
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:58:39 -0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
I don't know exactly what
protocol Mitsubishi used in the '94-95 cars, but
under my hood it says "OBDI
Certified" and the EASE OBD-II scanner didn't
work on any of the 3 OBDII
protocols it tried. What I'm wondering is will a
scanner like the TMO
datalogger (
www.tmo.com) work on the car with
a
different connector. Unfortunately I will never know because I have
already
bought a Snap-On MT2500. I need to chase down a Snap-On truck
and buy the
OBDII connector for it and see if it works with my MT2500's old
'92 Import
ROM. If it does, then it would probably be worthwhile for
someone to disect
a scanner like the TMO logger and try to get it to work but
I haven't done
it yet, so don't go cutting up your $300 datalogger quite
yet:)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
Jeff <
spydervr4@home.com>
Cc:
Sirius <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Friday, October 29, 1999 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II
Scan software
> This is a bummer. You're saying that Mitsu
used a standard OBD I protocol
for
> years '91-'93, and ISO standard
OBD II for '96+ (late '95+), but used a
> non-standard or
proprietary protocol for '94-'95? Do you know what the
'94-'95
>
protocol is? Is it OBD I protocol with an OBD II connector? Can we
use
an OBD
> I scan tool just by changing the
connector?
>
> This is bad news since I plan to upgrade my '91 to a
'94-'95. This is
good info
> for the FAQ when we sort it
out...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 20:03:01 -0400
From: "Michael McWilliams" <
CelMike@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: 13G vs 15G
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael
McWilliams <
CelMike@email.msn.com>
To:
TurboDrvn@aol.com <
TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Date: Friday,
October 29, 1999 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 13G vs
15G
><<Hey Mike,
>
> How do
you know that your rear turbo is shot? do you have anyking
of
>minimal boost when driving with that shot rear turbo? Any oil
within your
>y-pipe and Intercooler pipe by the rear
turbo?
>
>Thanks......I maybe going through the same symptoms as
you.
>
>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92
VR4>>
>
>
>Hey Ahmed,
>
>I first knew there
was a problem when I saw huge clouds of blue smoke esp.
>on
deceleration. I feared ring damage but a compression check showed
very
>healthy numbers. While I had the rear intercooler pipe off, I
noticed a
lot
>of oil in the pipe. At Roger's suggestion, I made
sure the oil was not
>coming through the PCV system, so the only other
explanation is that the
>rear turbo is leaking. I confirmed this
conclusion with just about every
>turbo vendor in Turbo magazine as well
as others on the 3SI board with the
>same problem.
>
>I still
have good boost (15 Psi), however.
>
>Of all the
rebuilders/upgraders I spoke with, I've decided to go with
Turbo
>Specialties in Alabama. They will rebuild your turbo for $350
to stock
>specs or they will upgrade them BOTH to 15Gs for $1,150
INCLUDING CLIPPING
>(this is NOT a typo!). The owner (Reed) said
15Gs are real easy to make
and
>he's blown away by what his competitors
charge for them. I spoke with him
>at length and he seems very
knowledgeable.
>
>Good
Luck,
>
>Mike
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Oct 1999 20:10:49 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Team3S: APEXi
Boost Controller Operation
My car is stock except for the APEXi
Super
AVC-R boost controller. I set the boost to
1.0 bar, and the
BADC (boost actuator duty
cycle) at 66%. After a few WOT runs to
6000
rpm in second gear, it reached .888 bar (with
some stumble, due, I
think, to the large stock
plug gaps). Now, should I raise or lower
the
BADC setting? Assuming the BADC is the
ratio of the solenoid
energized time to the
un-energized time, increasing the BADC setting
should raise the boost level, assuming the
turbos are large enough.
The instruction
manual seems to indicate the opposite, but
most of the
translation to English confuses
me. The question arises however: Is the
total
cycle (time energized plus un-energized)
a constant? IE: is the
total-cycle frequency
constant?
Another question I have is: If the
AVC-R learns
how the boost vs rpm and throttle are related
by making WOT
runs to max conditions, does
it un-learn the conditions when you are
just
driving "civilly" in daily traffic? Must you
"re-educate it
just before any attempts to use
your maximum performance?
I know there
are more knowledgeable folks out
there who can help me on this. Please
respond!
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Oct 1999 00:10:13 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VPC/GCC for sale
Hey everyone, I have a VPC and a GCC for
sale.
Also a G-Force ECU for a 91-93 VR4. I will need your
old ECU for exchange.
I have about 6 different programs for the ECU for
various states of tune.
I'm open for reasonable offers for this
equipment. Everything was used for
less than 1 year, so its all in pretty
decent shape.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/ E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:34:38 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Throttle body adjustment screw
> Eclispe and they are the
same. Anyway, the screw and rubber O-ring
arrived
>
yesterday. It is plastic and lists for over $11! Bill charged me
just
over $1
> for the screw and $1 for the O-ring.
Plastic ????
Mine is copper and came with the O-ring.
> It is an idle adjustment
screw. I threaded it in all the way, but the car
> barely idled
until I backed it out some.
If all other stuff is properly adjusted, you
can easy turn it out a little.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:30:40 EDT
From:
AMcbee1955@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
straightening intercooler (or radiator) fins
Eastwood (1-800-345-1178)
makes a tool, part #6681 for $10.99 that works
great. Makes them look
new but is a little labor intensive.
- --Alden
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Oct 1999 20:38:47 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: New A'PEXi SAVC-R installation
Today I installed the new version
of my A'PEXi SAVC-R in a colleague's
'91 VR-4. After resolving the
differences between his stock plumbing
and that on my '94 Stealth, and after
a few stupid, time-wasting but
harmless mistakes, everything went smoothly
and it worked the first
time. What a great unit! I'm jealous and
am considering upgrading mine
(I think I could just swap head units and sell
my old one with the new
kit)! A ton of features and flexibility.
Very impressive.
A few notes on installation and setup:
All
required parts were included with the kit except for a cap to plug
the stock
solonoid and a few small hose clamps (came with plenty of big
clamps, but no
small ones!). This was a relief as it's usually
impossible for me to
find what I need at the German hardware stores.
It took us about 30
minutes to study the stock system and get our
bearings. It was a big
help having my Stealth right next to the VR-4
for reference, but there were a
few differences in plumbing. The left
of the two stock solonoids on his
'91 was different from that on my '94,
with one hose going in the front and
the other hose exiting the bottom.
On mine, the left solonoid is identical
to the right, with both hoses
connecting to the front. I pulled up
Roger's Blitz installation page on
the web and was surprised to find that his
is like mine, so I'm not sure
when this change was made.
The biggest
time-waster for us was attempting to replace the stock 4-way
hose junction
above the rear turbo with a 3-way tee included in the
kit. After
fighting to remove the wastegate hoses and pulling up the
4-way junction, we
found that A'PEXi's 3-way tee had nipples too small
for the stock
hoses. So we returned the stock junction and simply
plugged the hose
that used to connect to the stock solonoid. Had we
done this right off
the bat it would have made life much easier!
The hose plumbing amounted
to little more than inserting the solonoid
valve in-line with the hose
connecting the rear of the Y-pipe to the
4-way junction and teeing the
pressure sensor and mini air filter off of
the FPR hose. The pressure
sensor ended up on the firewall, the
solonoid next to the washer
resevoir.
The wiring was also straightforward. The solonoid and
pressure sensor
connectors barely fit through the convenient firewall plug,
which we had
removed make this easier. Putting the plug back in the
firewall was NOT
easy, but it finally snapped in place. The folks who
installed my
SAVC-R had left too much wire in the engine compartment, causing
my
wiring to melt together and short, so we made sure that the wires
were
zip-tied out of harm's way and that all excess was taken up in
the
cockpit.
Inside, we decided to mount the head unit in the armrest
center
console. There is enough cable that it can be grabbed from the
console
and velcroed to the dash if desired - very nice! We did not
install a
scramble switch so the orange wire was left unused. We also
decided to
connect to IDC rather than RPM on the ECU.
Note that before
we began tapping in to ECU wires, we attempted to
verify the ignition power
but never saw any current. We had all three
ECU connectors off and
tested both the ECU pin and the harness pin. We
finally assumed that
power must be entering the ECU through one of the
other harness wires and
proceeded to splice into power and ground to see
if the head unit would light
up, which it did.
The unit setup was straightforward enough. One
cylinder (since we used
IDC rather than RPM), default engine type, default
TPS voltage (can be
verified in monitor mode), etc. It can display four
parameters
simultaneously, and we chose boost, BADC, IDC and
TPS.
Initial settings were .85 bar @ 50 BADC, which resulted in an
overboost
to 1.2 bar! Yikes! Didn't feel like 1.2 bars, so I
guess his knock
sensor works! :-| Backed it off to 35 BADC and it
wouldn't peak over
.80 bar. Ended up with .95 bar @ 45 BADC... quite
different from my .95
bar @ 72 BADC! Can't explain that one, since the
solonoids look
identical. Momentary overboost to 1.05 is slightly
higher than my
1.02-03.
Anyway, it was a good experience and it made a
big difference. My
friend is now enjoying the extra power (a bigger
difference for him
since he started out with 300 vs 320 HP stock) and has a
few hours of
reading and experimenting ahead of him! I may never get my
G-Tech
back... :-)
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Oct 1999 17:20:40 -0500
From: Rah <
rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Seatbelt
Well, it's almost 7 years old, so my 93 Stealth's seatbelt
retractor
thingies are well worn out, is there a simple fix(like WD40-ing
it?) and
if so how do i get behind the plastic panel to get at it?
Or
is it time to drag out the almost expired extended warranty and fuss
with the
dodge dealer?
TIA.
- --Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #322
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