--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #318
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
October 26 1999 Volume 01 : Number
318
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 03:36:25 -0500
From: "Noah Erickson" <noaherickson@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apexi AFC
Yes, you'll need an EGT or (preferably AND) a
datalogger to tune it
properly. Also, it's best not to use it until you
can tune it in right,
since the "zero" on each RPM range is not exactly
stock. It does change it
a little. Alot in the case of
DSMs. I've seen a car that ran normal
without the AFC not even be able
to idle at the zero setting once the AFC
was installed.
Noah
Erickson
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/
>=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=/\=<->=<->=<->=<->=<-
1991
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #
1954
_\/_
Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org
#dsm
/_/\_\ ICQ#
29810261
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:53:00 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Apexi AFC
> Also, it's best not to use it until you can tune
it in right,
> since the "zero" on each RPM range is not exactly
stock. It does change it
> a little. Alot in the case of
DSMs.
This is not a problem on the 3S cars. I checked the frequency
output as well as
the voltage level and with the proper car selected were no
problem (I had it on
the car for a year). Please note increasing the amount
of fuel with stock
injectors will cause early fuel cut. Leaning it out will
cause knock. Therefore,
install it if you have larger
injectors.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:13:19 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: VR4 AWD Torque Split ACTUAL
> Matt, where did you see any
reports to the contrary? That is
> bad info, hate to let that
get
> into people's minds because it will be a myth from then
on...
I believe it was in Road and Track in late '93 when they had an
article on the updated 3000/Stealth. They stated that the transmission had
been revised and Mitsu adjusted the torque split to 45/55 from 40/60 to try to
make the car less "tail-happy" in winter conditions. I'll try to locate
the article, but it is currently stored away "somewhere". I very
specifically remember reading that statement several times over, as I was trying
to determine if I wanted a '93 or '94 VR4 at the time and was trying to figure
out all the differences between the years.
Of course, Road and Track is
never* wrong. ;-) If they were wrong and I passed on bad info, I
sincerely apologize.
Ran a 13.2 yesterday at Rock Falls with fairly
relaxed launches, which isn't too bad, considering I don't have a lot done to
the car yet. I'm going to be trying to decide which turbos to go with for
next summer, either 13G or 15G. I don't want to sacrifice drivability and
quick spoolup though, as I occasionally autocross the car and don't drag race
often.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Borla exhaust, Alamo
downpipe, high-flow cat, HKS EVC IV, Spearco water injection, Magnacore wires,
K&N
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:19:41 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel injectors, 4ws, and my new Stillen DP
> Also, one member
stated that 95 and 96 TT do not have AWS.
> This is not what it
says in my manual or in the specs of
> the car. Is this guy mistaken
or what?
'95-'96 Stealth TT doesn't have it, VR4's have it all
years.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:31:34 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Alert: Problems at www.3Si.org
To all--
The ISP that
hosts the domain continues to have serious (but
temporary) technical
problems. The www.3Si.org domain has
not
changed, nor changed hands, but the current ISP has some of its
'wires
crossed' and can't seem to pinpoint the problem. To further
complicate
things, Eric can't access via FTP either, so he can't
move the website to a
new ISP, which he is planning to do ASAP. The
problem is actively being
worked on, and we'll post another note as
updates become
available.
The Admins
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 11:39:27 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 4ws
Sam,
I was the one that said the 95-96 TTs did not
have AWS. But remember this
is ONLY on the Stealths. The 3000GTs
always has AWS.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>From: "Sam
Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: Fuel injectors, 4ws, and my new Stillen DP
>Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999
18:44:59 -0000
>
>Also, one member stated that 95 and 96 TT do not
have AWS. This is not
>what
>it says in my manual or in the
specs of the car. Is this guy mistaken
or
>what?
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:55:11 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dumb Question, but curious
> The way all police radar guns
work is they
> scan the area, and then show what the strongest
signal
> returned was on the readout. Hence why if your
traveling
> in a pack of cars, and a cop clocks the pack, he has
to
> determine (or rather GUESS) which car was doing the returned
>
speed.
True enough....except for one subtlety.
> One
fact to note though is that big vehicles (trucks in other
> words) will
ALWAYS return the strongest signal no matter what.
> So if a trucks
doing 50, and you zip buy at 80, he'll get a
> 50 reading because the
trucks return signal is much stronger.
> This is another
reason why you should always ask to see
> the gun reading for
yourself when they pull you over
I've got a few friends who are cops,
one of whom regularly patrols I-5 on a
bike. When he shoots his radar
gun at a pack of cars/trucks, he generally
gets a reading from the strongest
signal (largest object). BUT (especially
if there is a substantial
speed difference between the slowest and fastest
vehicle), he quite often
gets an oscillating readout. So, in the case you
mention, he'd get a 50
signal with blips at 80. (i.e.
50...50...80...50...50...80...80) If there
aren't any other cars (going
fast)in the area and he can see you're going
considerably faster than the
truck, then consider yourself nailed. And
it will stick in court, at least
in WA. And that stuff about having to
see the gun... well, that only serves
to tick the cop off, which is one thing
you don't want in court. Fair or
not, they don't have to show you the
gun, nor does it have to say your speed
on it (i.e. in the 50/80 case
above). I don't like it, either...from my
personal experience and
talking with some officers, the best thing to do is
be honest, say "Yes,
sir. I understand, sir." a lot, and ask them for some
leniency BEFORE
they write the ticket:)
- --Erik
P.S. one other thing that I've
been told may help, especially if you're
pulled over at night is: roll
the window down before the cop walks up, keep
both hands on the wheel as he
talks to you, and when he asks for your
license and registration, tell him
what you're doing (i.e. registration is
in the glove box, you have to get
it...license is in your back pocket...)
That shows the cop that you have some
respect for the position he's in as
far as not having to worry about what
you're doing with that hand that's
outta sight or whether you're reaching for
your registration or a glock
under that passenger seat. Any brownie
points you can get will help
tremendously.
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC,
5-speed) 62,000 mi
Firestone
Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK
plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30
Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated
with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter
4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:59:58 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3si board
Now im confused.
If _our_ people own the
registration, whats the problem?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent:
Sunday, October 24, 1999 7:20 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3si board
It seems that another organisation took over
the URL and is building up
their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is
not answering on emails
too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is
registered or the
other organisation dissapears. It is possible that you can
access to the
pages with the IP address directly, but I don't have
it.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> Does anyone know why every time I
try to log on to www.3si.org, it
gives
me
> a big Forbidden message?
> Is it just my server, or
does everyone have this problem. Happens at work
>
too!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:22:13 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Strut
Welcome Rich,
> Hello all, new to the car and
I'm hearing that one of my struts is
> leaking, and I'm worried about cost
mainly. I have a 93 R/T TT, and
> when I quickly inquired to a
friend from a tire store he recalled
> Cadillac's electronic struts
running round $500? Same deal? Ack!
> Thanks in
advance,
The first thing you need to know about this car is where you can
get factory
parts at discount prices. There are several dealers whose
names keep popping
up. They are Mitsu dealers, but most parts are
identical on the Stealth. Try
the one closest to you and ask for the
internet 3SI discount:
Tallahassee Mitsubishi, FL: 888-825-5648, http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/
Norco
Mitsubishi, CA: (888) 689-1788, http://www.norcomits.com/
Rockland
Mitsubishi, NY: 914-353-2100
I purchased 4 ECS (electronically
controlled) struts earlier this year for about
$540. I then installed
them myself and had an alignment done. If you are a
do-it-yourselfer,
let me know and I'll send you the instructions. Otherwise,
you should
be able to find a local shop to do the install and alignment
for
$120-$200.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Drive faster, it is
later than you think!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:35:46 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3si board
>>-----Original Message----->From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
>>It
seems that another organisation took over the URL and is
building
up
>>their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not
answering
on emails
>>too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name
is
registered or the
>>other organisation dissapears. It is possible
that you can access
to the
>>pages with the IP address directly, but
I don't have it.
>
- -----Original Message-----From: Mohler,
Jeff
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
>Now
I'm confused.
>If _our_ people own the registration, whats the
problem?
The problem is with the ISP's server having it's wires
crossed.
Although it *appeared* that way to members trying to access
the
site, no one took over the URL; but another unrelated site
IS
coming up when trying to access 3Si.org because of the
server
glitch. Further, the ISP is taking it's time correcting
the
problem, which is why an ISP switch is imminent, WHEN the files can
be
downloaded. Right now, even FTP to the site is unavailable.
An
unbelievable SNAFU, which we hope will be remedied shortly.
Email
privately with any other questions, or watch for updates to be
posted here
from the Admins.
Best,
Forrest
Admin, Team3S
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:59:55 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lash Adjuster Update
Over the weekend, I had several requests for
an update on the lash adjuster
ticking problem.
For those of you who
don't remember or haven't decoded the acronyms in my
sig, here's what I
did:
1) Arty's cleaning method (MMO)
- nothing changed right
away
2) BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner
- nothing changed right away
3)
GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change
- intermittent
afterwards
4) Fresh oil (not filter) change
- gone
MMO is Marvel
Mystery Oil (not to be confused with snake oil:)
BG 44K is a fuel injector
cleaner that I got at my dealer.
GM EOS is General Motors Engine Oil
Supplement (Mitsu or GM dealer)
I started Arty's MMO method in June, when
ticking was regular, loud,
and annoying. I hated going though drive
thrus! I completed the 4 steps
above in July. It's October now,
and I have had NO lash adjuster ticking
when the engine is warm.
The only times I've heard ticking (other than the normal fuel
injector
ticking) are occasionally when I first start it up after it sat for
a
while. Evidently this is semi-normal, and the FSM even mentions it.
As
soon as I blip the revs above idle (2000 RPM or so), it goes away for
good.
I can probably count on one hand the number of times this has occurred
since
July.
The last oil change I did was at about 2500mi instead of 2000
(I was
busy:) I may try going to oil every 2500, filter every 5000 and
see what
that does. I don't like forking over the $ for Mobil 1 that
often, but I
guess in the grand scheme of things, $25 every 3 to 4 months
isn't too bad.
BTW, after 3000mi, the oil in my engine is pretty darned
black!
That's why I tried shortening the intervals... I would've
thought that
running synthetic would help it not get so black so quick.
I usually drain
out just under 4qts (w/filter) and end up putting in 4.25-4.5
qts, so I
guess it's using a little oil. I've *never* seen any blue
smoke, and the
car runs like a champ, so it's never concerned me. Does
this sound normal
to y'all? Is the black oil just because it's a fairly
high compression
engine with a high redline and pretty high temps?
(well, not as high as you
TT guys:)
Also, one theory as to the lash
adjuster ticking: now that I think
about it, the more frequent ticking
began soon after I accidentally let the
car go almost 5000miles without
changing the oil (I know, I know, bad Erik).
Anyway, I'm thinking that maybe
some dirt or other crap in the dirty oil
made its way into the lash adjusters
and partially clogged the oil
entrance/exit. This would make the
ticking intermittent, and loud when the
lash adjusters got clogged (they
don't work if they're oil-starved, right?)
Perhaps it took a while to get all
the junk out of them and now that I'm
making sure my oil is pretty darned
clean it hasn't come back.... well, my
thoughts anyway.
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 62,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:27:14 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lash Adjuster Update
> 1) Arty's cleaning method (MMO)
> - nothing changed right away
> 2) BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner
> - nothing changed right away
> 3) GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh
oil/filter change
> - intermittent afterwards
> 4) Fresh oil (not
filter) change
> - gone
I had really bad lifters that would tick
anywhere below 2,000 RPM and really* bad at idle. I changed oil and
filter, using a Mitsu filter and Mobil 0W30 synthetic. I ran the thin oil
for the full 3000 miles, and then switched to Mobil 10W30 synthetic and the
ticking was solved. It'll occasionally do it at idle after the car has
been idling for some time, but overall the problem is solved.
The 0W30
washes the crud out of the lifters, while still supplying a high enough
viscosity to protect bearings from wear. I read about this process on the
DSM List. Seems to work fine.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:06:34 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S:
End of the season #'s
Well, I was half expecting that Curt would have
already posted to the list
by now (well, maybe he has and I just haven't
gotten it yet, sometimes our
servers our slow), but the MN3S club went to the
track yesterday for some
year end results.
I haven't had my Stealth on
the track since I bought it. I took it to the
track in April with the
stock air cleaner (and I'm sure orig. filter, by the
look of it), original
plugs, wires, etc.. I managed a best of 13.797 @
98.25MPH.
This past
summer the car received a K&N Aircharger, new plugs gapped at
.032",
Magnecore wires, a Blitz DSBC, a test pipe, gutted pre-cats, and the
Spearco
980 water injection system. With all of this I was shooting
for
12's. 12.999 would have been enough to put a smile on my
face. The result
of all of this work: 12.855 @ 107.33MPH
all for less than $1k. I'm happy.
Curt, who was also shooting for
12's with almost the same mods (different
air filter, clutch, and exhaust),
finally got his 12's too, at get this:
12.855 @107.41 :-)
We
don't like Oskar anymore, he showed us up with a 12.67x. he drives
to
well, we're kicking him out of the club! :-) (J/K, we love ya'
Oskar!)
Anyway... Thanks to everyone on this list who provided me with
feedback and
insight I played with my toy. I have accomplished my goal
with it. Now I
have to turn my attention to another car (don't ask,
it's not pretty), and I
have the same goal: 12's.
Thanks again
all,
John Basol
'95 Stealth RT/TT ---> finally in the 12's!
:-)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:19:42 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: More
news on the laser radar gun thingy
Hello all,
I appologize if this
is considered off-topic, but it is technical :). I've
gotten a few
emails about this already, and figured I'd post this. I asked
my bud
hows a physics major (yet he programs video games, go figure ;)p,
about where
to get the equipment needed for this and he had some good info.
So I'm just
posting his reply back to me.
-
-------------snip-----------------
> Hey stud, Remember in high school
when you went out and bought a
> really high candle-watt powered light
(like the kinds the cops use)?
> Just curious if ya could tell me where I
could pick up one of those
> (like what kind of
stores)?
Wal-mart does, I think. The one I had back then was
200,000 candlepower.
They now have 500,000 and even 1,000,000 candlepower
versions. Get the
1 million. ;-)
> Also, any ideas
on where i could possibly pick up an ir
> filter for that light (something
to filter out all the light but the ir
> spectrum)? I've been talking with
some people on the 3000GT/Stealth news
> mailing and mentioned a something
in an old Car and Driver on defeating
> laser radar guns and some people
have asked where they could possibly come
> across these two items :). You
being the physics prof. ;)p, I thought
> would ask ya. Any ideas? Latufh
fuh U,
You can't just use any IR filter. You need to find out
what light
frequency the cops' IR guns use (wild guess? around 350nm)
and get
a filter for that frequency. ie, one that filters out all
visible
light (~380nm - ~700nm) but leaves the IR light to pass
through.
I have no idea where to buy these. I'm sure a careful web
search can
turn up a few pages that sell 'em online, though...
-
-------------snip-----------------
Hope this helps for those that are
intersted.
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 17:33:45 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Magazine and reviewers
They do not always give accurate info. I
have read an Edmunds report on our
4ws system and they compare it to the old
Hondas and how it does not help
high speed turning. They claimed our
4ws is opposite phase when in fact it
is same phase and does not even work at
low speeds. Take everything these
magazines say or do with a little
skepticism, because they can be wrong.
Sam
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:53:55 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AWS Modifications?
Question:
Is there a way to enable AWS
at low speeds?
A jumper, confuse the 'brain' etc?
Just
wondering.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:51:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Admin Message: 3Si board up again
The ISP has hopefully solved
their problems.
Roger, for the Admins
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:55:08 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: backfiring..etc
When we had a 92 StealthTT, and we removed all
the cats, we found/enjoyed the
occasional backfiring issue others
have.
Question is..is this harmful, normal..??
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:14:19 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: So
long
All,
It has been great being on this list. I have enjoyed the
technical
discussion and have learned one helluva lot about modern
computer
controlled engines. (I'll never own a carb'ed car
again!)
But, I have now purchased a chassis and body for a Ford GT40
replicar
and the demands of parts searching, purchasing, construction and
that
pesky thing called my job are just not allowing me time to keep up
with
the list. For those interested in the conglomeration of parts that
will
ultimately yield a finished car the major components are:
Engine
- Ford 5.0L hold the boos and hisses; there is some amount of
history
and tradition I must maintain here and performance parts are
plentiful and
cheap. Also see comment on weight below.
Transaxle/clutch - Porsche G50,
preferably a G50-50 but they are really
hard to find. For those purists that
are saying, "I thought the GT40
used a ZF transaxle?" technically the
Porsche transaxle is made by ZF.
It is just a more modern unit that a much
larger number of people can
work on. The later big block GT40s used a special
T44 Ford transaxle and
there is a guy in Charlotte, NC making these, but he
wants $25-30K for
them. I don't think so....! He also is building real,
part-for-part
interchangable GT40s for around $3-400K a copy. I'll send his
email
address if anyone is interested ;-)
Upright/brake assemblies are
Corvette - been known for poor braking, but
I'll only be stopping 2K lbs.,
not a Vette which ways as much, or more,
than our cars. Steering is the
typical Mustang II rack and pinion that
is used in 90% of the kit cars.
Suspension is very similar to original.
Chassis is built by the guy that
owns Sabre Automotive, John Donnelly,
He bought out KVA which was owned by
Ken Atwell, one of the original
engineers working on the GT40, a well known
GT40 kit manufacturer in
England for years. John worked for Jaguar for
8 years, spent 10 years
with Brabam racing and several more years for another
racing team in
South Africa (can't recall the name.) It was in South Africa
that he
started building Cobra replicars then moved that operation to the US.
When Cobra kits became a dime a dozen and not worth much more, John
got
out of the Cobra business rather than cheapening his product and
got
into the GT40 business. Shortly after purchasing KVA he got a
contract
to build 10 turnkey cars for a marketing company which sold the
cars
under the name American GT. Having finished the OEM contract he
only
recently started preparing to sell kits to the public. So I got one
of
the first "kits" and got it at 1/2 price so that he could have
a
reference of someone building one of his cars. The chassis is a work
of
art compared to most kit car chassis and is making it a pleasure to
work
on.
The body is pretty nicely built as well from original molds
he got from
KVA. He uses a multilayer fibreglass cloth with each layer
at a 15
degree bias to the others. Carbon fibre is used around the
windshield
area for strength and Kevlar is used in the firewall.
I
know this is way off topic, but you can't kick me off because I am
going to
have to unsubscribe. Again thank you all for the education. I
hope I
have helped the few people I have responded too.
Regards,
Lynn
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:19:22 PDT
From: "Rob Lewin" <sdholo@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Broken Reverse
Well, It finally happened to me. Transmission Problems.
Seems that I can't
shift my 5 speed getrag into reverse. It's as though the
gate (if there is
one) will not open. It happened three times before and
each time I was able
to run it through the gears and then get it into
reverse. I couldn't the
last time.
The dealer just called and told me
that as best as his mechanic can
determine without a complete breakdown is
that it's "broken". gee. Only a
$100 for that expert opinion. The service
advisor has informed me that there
are rebuild parts that are listed in the
catalog, but who knows if they're
available.
My questions to the list
are: Does this problem sound familiar to anyone,
and if so what was your
solution? Does anyone know if there are actually
rebuild parts available? Is
this a job that a resonably competent mechanic
can do without some exotic
tools? And if not, are there any shops that do
this work at a reasonable
shop rate?
The car in question is a 1991 Stealth R/T TT.
Thanks
for your time and hopefully your solutions.
Rob Lewin
San
Diego
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:26:03 -0500
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
EGT Probe Mounting
Which cylinder is the easiest one to weld an EGT
fitting onto. Instructions for my
Autometer gauge say 4" from the head. I'm
sure when I pull the front heat shield off it
will be obvious but I thought
maybe you guys have some insight....
Also I should keep max EGT's under
1580F, right?
Trevor
96 R/T TT-Doing 15G's, 550's, VPC, Fuel Pump,
Downpipe, Pre-Cat gutting, Greddy BOV, EGT
& A/F Ratio Gauges starting
tomorrow.....
Already has a HKS EVC IV, Borla, Plugs@.034", Accel Wires,
& K&N FIPK.
92 GMC Typhoon
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:30:23 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lash
Adjuster Update
I've had good success with the Mopar Combustion Chamber
Cleaner (MCCC)
process over at www.dsm.org
under the maintenance section. I used about 4
cans of the stuff (applied the
same way as listed under dsm.org, not as it
says on the can) Let it soak in
for a good 24 hours. Most of the stuff
seeped through the rings and into the
oil, basically turning into an engine
flush. After changing the oil (mobil 1,
15w-50 houston, tx) the tick was
totally and completely gone. There was alot
of smoke on initial startup, but
it was just the cleaner burning off inside
the exhaust manifold and
downpipe. Although it isn't listed on the sight, if
the car is old and has
alot of carbon buildup, the cat should be remove
before the process, as it
could get plugged up from all the junk flushed out
with the cleaner.
I've had very mild tick recurrences 3 months later, but
only on startup for
about 20 sec. nothing a good revving (a la manual revving
process,
idle-3k-idle rpm over a minutes time) doesn't fix. about as audible
as
injectors ticking away (before i rev)
Omar
92
r/t
> For those of you who don't remember or haven't decoded the
acronyms in my
> sig, here's what I did:
>
>
> 1) Arty's
cleaning method (MMO)
> - nothing changed right away
> 2) BG 44K
Fuel Injector cleaner
> - nothing changed right away
> 3) GM
EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change
> - intermittent
afterwards
> 4) Fresh oil (not filter) change
> -
gone
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:43:03 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Broken Reverse
Rob,
I have good news and bad
news. First the bad: The Getrag tranny on the twin
turbo cars is
officially not rebuildable since Mitsubishi and Dodge do not
sell
parts. Officially they sell new or Getrag-rebuilt units.
Either of these
options is very expensive, we've heard costs of of
$4000-$6000.
The good news: Some non-factory parts have emerged to
fill the Getrag void.
Unfortunately new synchros and gears aren't officially
available yet. Also
there just happens to be a Getrag rebuilder here in
San Diego! At least you
could save on shipping charges. I'll
forward you (not the list, again) the info
on MD Auto.
Good
luck,
Ken
P.S. Do you want me to add you to the San Diego
3000GT/Stealth list?
Rob Lewin wrote:
>
> Well, It finally
happened to me. Transmission Problems. Seems that I can't
> shift my 5
speed getrag into reverse. It's as though the gate (if there is
> one)
will not open. It happened three times before and each time I was able
>
to run it through the gears and then get it into reverse. I couldn't the
>
last time.
>
> The dealer just called and told me that as best as
his mechanic can
> determine without a complete breakdown is that it's
"broken". gee. Only a
> $100 for that expert opinion. The service advisor
has informed me that there
> are rebuild parts that are listed in the
catalog, but who knows if they're
> available.
>
> My
questions to the list are: Does this problem sound familiar to anyone,
>
and if so what was your solution? Does anyone know if there are actually
>
rebuild parts available? Is this a job that a resonably competent
mechanic
> can do without some exotic tools? And if not, are there any
shops that do
> this work at a reasonable shop rate?
>
> The
car in question is a 1991 Stealth R/T TT.
>
> Thanks for your time
and hopefully your solutions.
>
> Rob Lewin
> San
Diego
>
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private,
Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:52:17 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Water Injection
Im familiar with the process, but what kit(s) are
people using, and specifically
at what costs, install hassles, and what have
the repsective 'butt-o-meter'
guages felt about this mod?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:59:34 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Alert: www.3Si.org is back on
line.
As has already been reported, the website is on line once again,
at
www.3Si.org . Whether or not the
fix is permanent or if all the
scripts will work is still unknown, since Eric
has had to mirror the
entire site into one of its subdirectories. Eric
has provided a
separate URL for announcements as to the status of the
site:
http://www.3si.org/crash/index.htm
. Again, he has said that it
will be a simple one with scripts that may
or may not work, but he
will try to update frequently.
We have a link
page up to reach Eric or the update site, which is at
www.bobforrest.com/3Si.htm
.
The Admins
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:24:57 -0800
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
This is a multi-part
message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE31BD.D345CEA0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
- -----Original Message-----
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
To: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
Cc: Team3S List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, October 24, 1999 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all
(efficiency map)
Hey guys,
Here's an efficiency map for the 368's
from Brian.
You have any info regarding the 15G's?
-
-Noble
>"R.G." wrote:
>
>> > There is such
thing as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make
the
>> turbo
more
>> > efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same
theory. Check
this
>> out;
>> > http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
>>
>>
I've already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b
/
13g
>> compressor wheels. Anyone ?
>>
-
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE31BD.D345CEA0
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-
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE31BD.D345CEA0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:28:46 -0800
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Turbo maps
Hey everybody,
For all those interested, I
have the 368 efficiency maps from Brian at Gt
pro.
E-mail me if you would
like a copy
Later
Noble
(nketo@accglobal.net)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:34:37 -0800
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Turbo maps
Sorry guys,
My computer is always acting up
:(
Regarding the 368's, e-mail if you need additional info.
-
-Noble
- -----Original Message-----
From: nketo <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: Team3S List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, October 25, 1999 4:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Turbo
maps
>Hey everybody,
>
>For all those interested, I
have the 368 efficiency maps from Brian at Gt
>pro.
>E-mail me if
you would like a copy
>
>Later
>Noble
>(nketo@accglobal.net)
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:24:21 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: WANTED: sunroof crank parts (Getrag?)
Greetings all..
Once
again, sorry for my low tech posts, but I need the help of all
your
collective eyeballs.. :) I need to find a 3000 or stealth
with the
large glass "pop-up" roof (actually cranks) that is being parted
out..
A fellow Team3S member, Moe Prasad, was kind enough to tear apart
his
crank mechanism on his 92 VR4 to find out what was missing in
mine..
It turns out there two pieces to the vertical "worm gear" that
raises
the rear of the roof.. mine is missing the inner one..
you can see the internals of this mechanism at:
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/sunroof/sunroof.html
I
really only need that piece, but if need be I will buy a whole
regulator
assembly.. I tried MSRecycling and was told I must have an
aftermarket
roof since their computer didn't show a glass roof that
pops up..
somewhat rudely I might add.. hmm.. I've seen plenty of
3/S with
this roof.. guess who I won't be calling any more?
the dealer wants
an obscene amount for this simple mechanism.. oh
yeah.. it has
gears in it.. must be made by Getrag.. :)
anyway, if any of
you could forward me a phone number or URL of any
private party (preferable
as likely to be more reasonably priced) or
any salvage yard that has one, I'd
sure appreciate it..
Thanks!
Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red
GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:43:29 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Broken Reverse
In a message dated 10/25/99 6:22:45 PM Central Daylight
Time,
sdholo@hotmail.com
writes:
<< My questions to the list are: Does this problem sound
familiar to anyone,
and if so what was your solution? Does anyone know
if there are actually
rebuild parts available? Is this a job that a
resonably competent mechanic
can do without some exotic tools? And if
not, are there any shops that do
this work at a reasonable shop
rate?
The car in question is a 1991 Stealth R/T
TT.
Thanks for your time and hopefully your
solutions.
Rob Lewin >>
Hey there
Rob,
For starters, I highly recommend you or a trusted
mechanic check the
shifter linkage control area; this area is located right
beneath the blow off
valve vicinity. There is a pin located there that
may have "slipped out" and
is now acting as an obsturction and preventing
you from entering into your
Reverse gear.
That's the first
place to check......could save you Thousands of dollars! It
happened
to me twice.
Good luck,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:26:12 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: VR4 AWD Torque Split ACTUAL
Matt Jannusch
wrote:
> I'm going to be trying to decide which turbos to go with for
next summer,
> either 13G or 15G. I don't want to sacrifice
drivability and quick spoolup
> though, as I occasionally autocross
the car and don't drag race often.
Matt,
I don't have the 15Gs on
my 94 VR4, but I have driven around a 94 Stealth
TT with the 15Gs. I
didn't notice hardly any difference in spoolup. The car
drove around
town just fine, and it felt maybe even a little better than my car
at the low
rpms maybe because it had the stock catalytic converter on
(mine
doesn't). I am not expecting to sacrifice any driveability when I
upgrade to
the 15Gs. In my opinion, upgrading only to 13Gs is kind of
pointless, especially
in light of Roger Gerl's dyno charts which show that
the horsepower differences
(compared to 9Bs) really aren't that
great.
Good luck,
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:33:57 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S:
adding turbos to an NA
I've got a shot at picking up a
set of stock
turbos. Is it worthwhile looking into bolting
them
onto a 3KGT base? The only major
difference I can find between the two
engines
is the compression ration 10:1/8:1....
-
-Remo
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:37:57 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
"R.G." wrote:
> Yes, running lean
is critical but the logger will see this with the O2
> sensors, the knock
and the timing. Our ECU does take care of the [snip]
>
> If you want
to do the tuning job most seriously you'll need :
> - temp readings :
intake, turbo discharge, intercooler out, before TB,
> intake plenum,
EGT
> - pressure readings : discharge, after intercooler, before turbo
(turbine
> backpressure), after turbo (exhaust
backpressure)
Roger,
I just wanted to pass along some tuning
advice from a friend of mine
here in the Seattle area. He's running a
second-gen Eclipse tuned by
himself with a PMS (he upgraded from AFC so he
could tune timing
and get data logs), and he runs 12.0 in the 1/4 mile on 19"
wheels with
full interior (big 20G sized turbo). Once his car is tuned
with his new
heads, he should be easily running consistent mid
11's.
Here's what he says.
1) Tuning with stock O2 sensor
readings is no good because they are
not very accurate unless you are at
partial throttle. This is why our cars
ignore O2 sensor readings at
full throttle.
2) An A/F meter gives you a good approximation of
where you are,
but it is not a very accurate thing to tune with. It is
basically making a
rough guess of what the actual ratio is.
3)
EGT readings are too coarse to tune with. They are a useful
indicator
of the limits within which you should be running.
4) According to
this friend of mine, the best indicator with which you
should tune is a
wide-band O2 sensor. It's usually too expensive to
buy one, so you need
to rent it. It has a sensor which you clip on to
your exhaust pipe and
a meter which you plug into your cigarette lighter.
It gives VERY accurate O2
sensor readings which it translates into an
air/fuel ratio. There are
many other people who use it to tune their
modified cars.
So anyway, I
thought you (and other people on the list) might want to
look into
this. Or if somebody on the list has used one they can pass
along their
experiences.
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Oct 1999 00:37:41 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N - best price?
I figured I'd try to redeem myself by
asking a (slightly) more relevant
question.. I want to get a
FIPK/Aircharger/whatever tomorrow, (or at
least order one) and wondering if
anyone has found any smokin' deals..
I found one ad in Sport Compact Car
that listed a special on the Aircharger
for a 2nd gen Eclipse for $79. (I'm
aware of the filter size and L-bracket
issues.) Do any of you know of
any other deals? Is the consensus still
that that K&N works best
or at least as good as others?
thanks!
Dave
95 Black VR4
87
Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Oct 1999 01:35:14 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: 9B,
13G, 15G relative performances
The 13G make at least 50+ hp more than the
9B. I did
no other changes on my '93 and went from 12.727 @ 107.562 mph
to
12.172 @ 112.890 mph quartermile on 8/31/94 going from 9B to 13G.
This
is somewhat over 50hp, and I did not have the VPC/550 injectors yet,
so had
to limit boost to ~16-17psi or fuelcut came in. In this
configuration,
went best of 114.350 mph on 9/27/94, ~65hp more (all stats are
NO nitrous in this
letter,
except as noted).
- --I think 9B's can be
good for about 410hp at wheels maxxed out with standard stuff.
Once
VPC/550 injectors in, 13G's went 12.000 and 119.381 best mph, on
4/8/95;
about 500 hp at the wheels; overall, gained about 110 hp with 13G
over 9B, but
given other changes 13G likely ~100 hp better than 9B.
13G
best ET was 11.702 @ 118.061 on 6/6/96; this was
through traps in 3rd gear,
on the rev limiter. I was the first 3000GT in the
11's 5/17/95 with an
11.937@118.338.
- --I think 13G can be
good for about 510hp at wheels maxxed out with standard stuff.
15G
best MPH was 11.387 @ 125.76 11/28/96 at the 1st Annual
3000GT/Stealth vs.
Diamond Star Shootout in Temple, TX with the 550 injectors;
about 575 hp at
the wheels, so 15G make about 75 hp more than 13 G, but note
I made some
other changes so 15G likely ~40-50hp better than 13G.
After that, 720cc
injectors did not add any mph to trapspeed,
indeed seemed to LOWER speed
likely due to over-rich condition--
but lowered EGT a tad (max 1850 F at
Temple) which may or may not have been good
because knock could at random
times mean EGT high due to retard, or
due to a true lean mix.
Best ET for
me with 15G was 11.303 @ 122.54 at DSM Shootout 5/16/97, which I won
class in
:) full interior, as required by Dave Buschur...Adam Weltz went ~11.25
"no
NOS".
- --I think 15G can be good for about 580hp at wheels maxxed out
with standard stuff.
My car made best 575 or so at wheels no NOS, but that is
not "maxxed"
because I always had stock intercoolers, no headers, no
head/intake/throttlebody
porting/
ignition/standalone computer--with THOSE
parts, my "maxxed out" figures could be
somewhat higher...
Best
3000GT/Stealth ET/MPH overall is still my 10.810 @ 128.44 with 15G's, 50hp
NOS
on 6/3/97; I had the distinct honor of making this pass lined up with the
late Jeff
Curtis in his Stealth...
I'd not hesitate to get 13G's if
desired and price right. The 15G make more topend,
and I think they are
worth it. 17G and more exotic turbos have yet to put better
numbers to
the pavement. When they do, we'll see what other mods/weight
reductions
etc are on the cars doing it. 15G are still unbeaten, both
on motor and with NOS; are
capable of 125 mph quartermile / 575+ hp AT THE
WHEELS no NOS in my car,
with only piggyback computer mods/no
porting/enginework beyond the boltons.
Pretty amazing, really.
Jack
Tertadian
Atomic Motorsports :)
[snips:]
> Matt
Jannusch wrote:
> > I'm trying to decide which turbos to get next
summer,
> > either 13G or 15G. I don't want to sacrifice
drivability/quick spoolup
> > as I autocross, and don't drag race
often
>
Errin Humphrey wrote:
> 94 Stealth TT with
15Gs. I noticed hardly any difference in spoolup.
> drove around
town fine, felt maybe little better than my car
> at low rpm maybe because
it had cat converter (mine
> doesn't). I am not expecting to
sacrifice any driveability when I upgrade to
> 15Gs. In my opinion,
upgrading to 13G is pointless, especially
> in light of Roger Gerl's
dyno charts which show that horsepower differences
> compared to 9B really
aren't that great.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Oct 1999 02:07:33 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Turbo question (efficiency map)
That map is the T04E "60" trim Garrett
compressor. It is
a huge compressor, could support as much as 1000hp
with
two of them. Good luck.
nketo wrote:
> Hey
guys,
> Here's an efficiency map for the 368's from Brian.
> You
have any info regarding the 15G's?
> -Noble
>
> >"R.G."
wrote:
> >> > There is such thing as not being able to run enough
boost/RPM to make
> the
> >> turbo more efficient. This is
apples to oragnes but it's the same theory.
>
> >> I've
already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b /
> 13G
compressor wheels. Anyone ?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:48:47 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: adding turbos to an NA
> I've got a
shot at picking up a set of stock
> turbos. Is it worthwhile
looking into bolting
> them onto a 3KGT base? The only major
> difference I can find between the two engines
> is the
compression ration 10:1/8:1....
As I posted a couple days ago,
there's a lot more involved than just bolting them on. You need either an
additional injector controller setup or a turbo ECU, as well as exhaust
manifolds, Y-pipe, BOV, (injectors?), possibly a MAF from a turbo car, downpipe,
turbo oilpan, oil feed/drain lines, coolant feed/drain lines, etc. More
work than it is worth, most likely. You also end up with a high-horsepower
FWD car which will torque steer like a monster and chew through tires. Not
that chewing through tires isn't fun......
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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