--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #317
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Monday, October 25 1999 Volume
01 : Number
317
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 23 Oct 1999 22:03:43 -0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rebuilding calipers
I rebuilt my calipers the last time I
changed my pads. The rebuild kits come
with the rubber piston dust caps and
the rubber piston o-ring seals. That's
it. They do not come with new pistons.
If your pistons are far gone... you
might wanna get a set of rebuilt
calipers. I'm not an expert on this but, if
the walls of you pistons are ok
and the sctraches and gouges are not
affecting the seal, then you are
probably ok... this is by you own jugement.
Take a look at the walls of the
pistons and you can generally tell if its ok
or not. I purchased the rebuild
kit from car parts store called Car Quest.
Good Luck
Jose
Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Saturday, October 23, 1999 8:30 AM
Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding
calipers
> Can the front brake calipers on a 94 VR4 be
rebuilt?
>
> I seem to have totally banged, scratched, and gouged
the pistons, and I
> ruined several O-rings on my calipers from a dozen or
more pad changes
this
> season. Is this something that can be done on
the workbench or is it best
> left to a dealer? Is there a rebuilding
kit?
>
> Even if I go to the Big Red, I still need to fix my old
calipers.
>
> And while we're on the subject, any chance the front
calipers would fit on
> the rear?...I can see a system with Big Red up
front and the big front
> calipers on the rear. Might actually stop the
furshlugginer car.
>
> Please advise.
>
> Rich/old
poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 23 Oct 1999 23:32:06 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hein
Coilover Struts
Hello all,
I'm ready for a
suspension upgrade. I've heard that the Hein Coilovers
are an excellent
upgrade. Any other options? After reading Turbo Mag and
seeing
the Bee racing GTO with the HKS setup, I'm wondering if there is a
better
choice. Let me know what you think.
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 08:17:39 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: new brake pads
Thanx to all who responded. Yesterday I
did some long, hard braking,
including a set of three consecutive stops from
100 mph down to 30 mph
or so which had the brakes smoking and stinking (but
not warping!).
Brake power was definitely improving the more stops I made
(ie- ABS was
finally getting involved, even at 75+ mph with hot
brakes). I let them
cool off on the way home and took a look at the
rotors. Where they were
completely polished before, they now have dark
concentric lines (no
grooving), and the pads have taken on a more reddish
color.
Interesting. Anyway, I hope stopping power continues to
increase.
So my understanding at this point is that the improvement in
braking can
be attributed to either pad badding/outgassing or enough wear on
the
rotors to eliminate buildup of the previous pads' compound.
Why
aren't pads sold pre-outgassed? If that was indeed the real cause
of my
dangerous situation, then I would think liability would be
an
issue.
At any rate, be careful when you install new pads!
Make sure you have
full braking power before you need it! Thanx
again...
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 02:41:37 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: No boost updates
This is kinda for Ahmed, but also asking
yall,
can't you just unbolt the water/oil lines to either turbo, undo the
"C"
clamp around the housing, and pull the compressor and center-cartridge
out
by themselves? This sounds much easier to do, and I know you can do it
on
the talons and older supra's... Just wondering, cause soon I have to
check
them myself (my oil/smoke problem).
I heard more backfires (not
really backfires, more like "afterfires") after
gutting my precats and
occasionally running a 2.5" testpipe. This became
MUCH worse with the DSM
injectors (450cc) installed UNTIL I got my AFC
installed. Now the AFC is
kinda set from -20%@1000 thru 0%@7000 linearly.
(high throttle).
The
afterfires still happen once in a while, but not as often, nor as
loud
(SOMETIMES they are really loud tho still :)
Vineet Singh -
Ghetto style exhaust semi-cured.
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:36:33 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure
> Anybody running the HKS in tank fuel
pump?
HKS = Denso ... yes I do
> I would like to know what
pressure it delivers to the fuel rail at idle
> and at positive
boost.
Ahem, fuel pressure is controlled by the pressure
regulator.
> Or, as they check it in the Service manual, at idle with
and without the
> FPR solenoid connected to the FPR.
Doesn't make
sense to me. Fuel pressure is around 43psi at 0 psi boost and
rises as boost
rises.
> Related question: Do most after-market fuel pumps
deliver a constant
> flow rate to the fuel rail no matter what the
rpm?
The fuel pump is staged with a resistor that is switched off by a
relay
activated by the ECU.
> At idle, the FPR allows most of the
fuel to return to the fuel tank thus
keeping rail
> pressure
down. Then the FPR, when it senses boost, closes the return
> line
which causes the rail pressure to raise.
The FPR is a linear device and
therefore fuel pressure MUST not be lower
than a specific rate otherwise the
injectors may want to spray more fuel
than available. This is why a minimum
fuel pressure is available but the
flow is on a low level due to the pump
slowed down to about 8V. The more the
change of the vaccum/boost to the FPR
the more the fuel pressure changes.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:38:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hein Coilover Struts
Never heard of "Hein" ... only "Tein" ....
good stuff I heard but mucho $$$.
> I'm ready
for a suspension upgrade. I've heard that the Hein
Coilovers
>
are an excellent upgrade. Any other options?
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:45:31 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo questions for all
Noble, your PCs date is Sat, 26 Dec 1998
, please correct it !
> Does anyone have experience with other
turbos?
I guess Brad Bedell made some temp measurments as
well.
> I'm thinking Brian's BIG ass monster turbos (@GTPro) would
work great;
> they'd only be working probably at about 40-50% efficiency
though.
Why should they run at such a low efficiency ? Please explain ! I
do have the
368s ready and unfortunately they will create much more lag but
for sure the
discharge temperature would be freezing cold compared to the
small turbos. This
is easy to be exlained, because the air flow is much more
with the same amount
of boost and therefore the compressor wheel must not
work like crazy and
therefore will stay on it's efficiency
island.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:01:14 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
3si board
Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives me
a big Forbidden
message?
Is it just my server, or does everyone have this problem.
Happens at work
too!
Sam
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 16:20:23 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3si board
It seems that another organisation took over the URL
and is building up
their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not
answering on emails
too. AFAIK, www.3si.org
is dead until either a new name is registered or the
other organisation
dissapears. It is possible that you can access to the
pages with the IP
address directly, but I don't have it.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>
Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives
me
> a big
Forbidden message?
> Is it just my server, or does everyone have this
problem. Happens at work
> too!
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:16:59 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Downpipe installation
Do I need any extra parts like gaskets or something
to put on the new
downpipe? If the Stillen piece replaces the rear cat,
how difficult is the
removal of the rear cat? Do you start from the top
or bottom? I do not see
any bolts from underneath, just a metel
shield. Any help would be
appreciated.
Sam 95 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:30:57 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
HKS SSBOV
I installed this unit in about 30 minutes. However, I
tried to put the car
in reverse, and it was stuck. It ends up the hose
ran too low and was
hitting the cam for reverse gear. I had to
disconnect the bracket on the
BOV to fuse panel and just leave the unit
sitting on top of the gap between
the fuse box and y-pipe. It works
very good, and does not make the car
stall like some people mentioned.
Turbo recovery is noticeable quicker.
The air coming off this thing must be
very hot, cause it was untouchable for
about 15-20 minutes. The car
seems more responsive, but that is not
measured in any way, so its my
opinion. I heard people saying you need to
put the air back after the
MAF to provide the correct ratio it measured
before. Don't we want the
car to run richer under more boost? Wouldn't
recycling hot air be bad
for power? I am a little confused because everyone
says our cars run
too rich already, yet we need to add fuel to run more
boost. Just some
thoughts, any opinions?
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 11:51:51 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3si board
Roger,
No one hijacked the domain (at least
that's not what Eric said). Big server
crash at Eric's web hosting
company, thought it would be solved by now, but
maybe it was worse than they
thought.
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love
cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
-
------------Still under construction---------------
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Sunday, October 24, 1999 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si
board
> It seems that another organisation took over the URL and
is building up
> their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not
answering on emails
> too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is
registered or
the
> other organisation dissapears. It is possible that
you can access to the
> pages with the IP address directly, but I don't
have it.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> > Does
anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives
> me
> > a
big Forbidden message?
> > Is it just my server, or does everyone have
this problem. Happens at
work
> > too!
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:17:02 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pressure
R.G. wrote:
>
> > I would
like to know what pressure it delivers to the fuel rail at idle
>
> and at positive boost.
>
> Ahem, fuel pressure is
controlled by the pressure regulator.
>
> > Or, as they check it
in the Service manual, at idle with and without the
> > FPR solenoid
connected to the FPR.
>
> Doesn't make sense to me. Fuel pressure is
around 43psi at 0 psi boost and
> rises as boost rises.
Do you know
what the peak pressure would be? Roger, you may remember a datalog I
sent
you last week showing a fluctuating O2 voltage in third gear at the
upper rpms. I now
believe it is fuel related. I've watched fuel
pressure during acceleration (17psi
boost) in third gear and see that during
WOT, the pressure spikes up to ~51psi (3.5
bars) and then slowly drops as rpm
rises. I then feel the hesitation. I thought the
Denso pump was
suppose to deliver and hold ~60psi during boost. I suspect the FPR
is
faulty and isn't closing off the return line.
BTW - the service
manual check for the FPR is to measure fuel pressure at idle with and
without
the solenoid vacuum line connected to the FPR. For a stock turbo car
the
resultant pressures are suppose to be as follows:
idle: 235kPa
(34psi)
idle with vacuum hose removed from FPR: 295-315kPa
(43-45psi)
With a Denso pump, I'm not sure what values I should be
seeing, I'd assume higher than
listed above. I need to first understand
whether my fuel system is delivering the
appropriate rail pressure. If
not, I'll focus on the FPR, FPR Solenoid, fuel filter,
vacuum lines/wiring,
and the pump itself. I wouldn't mind getting my RC injectors
rebalanced
either.
Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:10:26 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3si board
- -----Original Message-----From: Sam Shelat <sshelat@erols.com>
>>Does anyone
know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it
gives me
>>a big
Forbidden message?
>>Is it just my server, or does everyone have this
problem. Happens
at work
>>too!
>
- -----Original
Message-----From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
>It seems that
another organisation took over the URL and is
building up
>their
service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not answering
on
emails
>too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is
dead until either a new name is
registered or the
>other organisation
dissapears. It is possible that you can access
to the
>pages with the
IP address directly, but I don't have it.
Eric sent me an email last
night...
It's only a temporary technical glitch, centered with the ISP
that
hosts the domain. The www.3Si.org
domain has not changed, nor
changed hands, but the current ISP has some of
its 'wires crossed'
and can't seem to pinpoint the problem. To further
complicate
things, Eric can't access via FTP either, so he can't move
the
website to a new ISP, which he is planning to do ASAP.
Stay tuned
for details... We'll post a more complete "Admin Alert"
with an update
as soon as we have more
information.
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 13:14:36 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re:Fuel injectors, Supra pump
Sam Shelat wrote:
> anyone know
if Supra (MK4) 550cc injectors work on our cars?
No. They are "side
port", get fuel on SIDE of injector; ours and
most others are "top port" and
get fuel from top of inj.
Supras upgrading injectors have to change their
fuel rail also, HKS
makes upgrade fuelrail for like $340...ugh...this lets
them use the
more standard top port inj of higher capacity out
there.
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 20:50:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure
> Do you know what the peak pressure would
be?
Easy : at 0 psi FP is about 43 psi (like the hose disconnected from
the FPR)
at 15 psi 43 + 17 = 60 psi
> I now believe it is fuel
related. I've watched fuel pressure during
acceleration (17psi
>
boost) in third gear and see that during WOT, the pressure spikes up
to
~51psi (3.5
> bars) and then slowly drops as rpm rises. I then
feel the hesitation. I
thought the
> Denso pump was suppose to
deliver and hold ~60psi during boost. I suspect
the FPR is
>
faulty and isn't closing off the return line.
Umpf, you may try to get an
FPR from the NA but I dunno how well it works
under boost (out of it's specs
!) Our stock fuel pump (also a Denso, 190
ltr/hr) is only able to flow around
32 gal/hr at 60psi. In reality it's more
as these values are the worst case
in production. In comparison, the Walbro
"high pressure" fuel pump is able to
flow 52gal/hr at the same fuel
pressure. I dunno what fuel pump you are using
as well how rich you are
running. At 80% IDC with the 550cc you may flow up
to 48 gal/hr, way too
much for the stock fuel pump. Assuming you are cooling
the chamber with fuel
you are running around 44 gal/hr flow at around 58 psi.
The fuel pumps
(Walbro) are rated to 255l/hr at around 41 psi and can deliver
enough then.
> With a Denso pump, I'm not sure what values I should be
seeing, I'd assume
higher than
> listed above. I need to first
understand whether my fuel system is
delivering the
> appropriate rail
pressure. If not, I'll focus on the FPR, FPR Solenoid,
fuel
filter,
> vacuum lines/wiring, and the pump itself. I wouldn't mind
getting my RC
injectors
> rebalanced either.
Depending on the
pump, I'd say the fuel filter needs to be checked if it was
not changed
lately. A faulty FPR lowers the pressure even more but its also
worth looking
at. Remember, the values we are getting fro mthe ECU is what
it is trying to
do. This is why we can read more than 100% IDC with the
stock injectors. Of
course they will then just stay fully open. This of
course is not the case
with your injectors.
Reading 51 psi may be low compared to the calculated
58 psi and I have not
yet been able to read fuel pressure on my car.
Therefore others input would
help to determine if you're running into fuel
starvation.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 14:58:31 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Manifold
Vacuum
Has anyone checked their manifold vacuum lately? My car runs
great, but runs
consistently one or two mm/hg below the specs in the service
manual. I am
interesting in hearing what other's vacuum readings
are.
Thanks!
Joe 91TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 21:55:12 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Downpipe installation
> Do I need any extra parts like gaskets
or something to put on the new
> downpipe?
You need new exhaust
gaskets on any flange as the stock ones are gone. Also
get new nuts too
because I just lost one that didn't held anymore after
taking it off and on
thr 6th time.
> If the Stillen piece replaces the rear cat, how
difficult is the
> removal of the rear cat?
No, it doesn't replace
the rear one. This is why I recommend to gut the rear
one when putting it on.
Otherwise you are having different packpressure on
the front and rear turbo.
It is not known what this may cause but I do not
like "unbalanced" systems !
Removing the rear precat is a super-mega-pain in
the ass.
Good
luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:06:03 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HKS SSBOV
> I installed this unit in about 30 minutes.
However, I tried to put the
car
> in reverse, and it was
stuck.
Yep, you are having a second gen and the kit doesn't fit
without
modification.
> BOV to fuse panel and just leave the unit
sitting on top of the gap
between
> the fuse box and y-pipe.
You
must mount it to something as the flange of the HKS BOV is not very good
and
if it hits something from time to time it may got damaged.
> It
works very good, and does not make the car stall like some
people
mentioned.
Well, it does but on what boost are you running ?
And is it adjusted
properly ? This was always my problem until I foudn out
that it started to
open at 14 psi and I lost pressure due to this. After
readjusting it never
worked properly anymore :-( Of course it was the 1st gen
and not the new
SSBOV, although it's about the same plastic BOV under the
aluminum body.
> I heard people saying you need to put the air
back after the MAF to
provide
> the correct ratio it measured
before. Don't we want the car to run richer
under
> more
boost?
This is already the case !
> Wouldn't recycling
hot air be bad for power?
Sure, but if the turbos are already running
extremely out of its range and
are producing way too much hot air, recycling
this hot air back is not doing
much more bad. Also the air is sent back
during the closed throttle
situation.
> I am a little confused
because everyone says our cars run too rich
already, yet we
> need to
add fuel to run more boost.
Ahem, what exactly is the question ? We need
fuel to fight against the knock
and this is more than really needed for the
power.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:21:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Manifold Vacuum
> Has anyone checked their manifold vacuum
lately? My car runs great, but
runs
> consistently one or two
mm/hg below the specs in the service manual. I am
> interesting in
hearing what other's vacuum readings are.
This depends on the temperature
and humidity as well as idleing or rolling
the car out. The boost meters are
not very consistent as the at idle
(850rpm) DSBC reads 44cm/Hg, the Dual
Timer 43cm/Hg and the meter 46cm/Hg.
The manual say 45cm/Hg and therefore
it's in the limits. I'd be worried if
your readings are more than 40cm/Hg or
less than 50cm/Hg.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 16:19:45 -0500
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo questions for all
There is such thing as not being able to
run enough boost/RPM to make the turbo more
efficient. This is apples to
oragnes but it's the same theory. Check this out;
http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
My
Ty only turns 2100-4300 RPM and maxes out at 16 psi on pump gas. The turbo on
the
right would never reach it's peak efficiency and is too large for my
application....The
stock turbo on the left is much too small.
Yes I'd
probably be better off for straight drag racing running the too large turbo
vs.
the stocker but if there's a turbo in between I bet I'd run faster and
have less lag!
Trevor
96 R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech (15g's are going in
this week)
92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60
5.34 Gtech
"R.G." wrote:
> Noble, your PCs date is Sat, 26 Dec
1998 , please correct it !
>
> > Does anyone have experience with
other turbos?
>
> I guess Brad Bedell made some temp measurments as
well.
>
> > I'm thinking Brian's BIG ass monster turbos (@GTPro)
would work great;
> > they'd only be working probably at about 40-50%
efficiency though.
>
> Why should they run at such a low efficiency
? Please explain ! I do have the
> 368s ready and unfortunately they will
create much more lag but for sure the
> discharge temperature would be
freezing cold compared to the small turbos. This
> is easy to be exlained,
because the air flow is much more with the same amount
> of boost and
therefore the compressor wheel must not work like crazy and
> therefore
will stay on it's efficiency island.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 00:26:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
> There is such thing
as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make the
turbo more
>
efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same theory. Check
this
out;
> http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
I've
already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b /
13g
compressor wheels. Anyone ?
> My Ty only turns 2100-4300 RPM
and maxes out at 16 psi on pump gas. The
turbo on the
> right would
never reach it's peak efficiency and is too large for
my
application.
Why do you think it is too large ? When running 20psi
at 5000 you are at
around 75% what is good. Ok, the efficiency areas are thin
and for the low
end power it would be better to have the 70% island also in
the 3500 like
the small one. I htink it's not the size but the design of the
wheel. What
if the bigger wheel would be clipped ?
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 17:21:34 -0700
From: Raymond Yap <raymond.yap@stanford.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Apexi AFC
I just picked up an Apexi AFC (not the latest one) and
plugged it in my
VR-4. Can anybody advice me on how to tune it effectively so
that I
don't melt my engine in the process ? And what would be a
conservative
setting on the various RPMs that I could start with
?
raymond.
'91 vr-4
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:37:44 -0500
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
"R.G."
wrote:
> > There is such thing as not being able to run enough
boost/RPM to make the
> turbo more
> > efficient. This is apples
to oragnes but it's the same theory. Check this
> out;
> > http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
>
>
I've already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b /
13g
> compressor wheels. Anyone ?
>
> > My Ty only turns
2100-4300 RPM and maxes out at 16 psi on pump gas. The
> turbo on
the
> > right would never reach it's peak efficiency and is too large
for my
> application.
>
> Why do you think it is too large ?
When running 20psi at 5000 you are at
> around 75% what is good. Ok, the
efficiency areas are thin and for the low
> end power it would be better
to have the 70% island also in the 3500 like
> the small one. I htink it's
not the size but the design of the wheel. What
> if the bigger wheel would
be clipped ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
It's
too large because I'm only going to run 16 psi and the stock shift point is
around
4300 RPM. I'm never going to even get into its best efficiency range.
This turbo is
optimized at 18 psi with 5400 rpm shifts.
I just wanted
to make a comparison of how a large turbo could possibly not be
beneficial. I
really believe that the 368+ turbos are too large for street use.
Physics
says it takes more energy to spin up a large compressor wheel. Those
things are HUGE!!!
I know, they have ball bearings....and the turbine wheel
is supposed to be soooo
efficient. It's only 1.5 liters of air trying to turn
them. The 368 is the size of the
garrett 850 cfm turbos we use in the sy/ty
(TE-44) world and they're good for 500 HP
easy. That's one turbo with 4.3L of
exhaust driving it. I don't see why we need TWO
turbos that size on the
3000/Stealth unless you're doing the silver state classic with
110
Octane!!!
Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:26:43 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SL/VR4 Caliper Clearance
Oskar,
Oskar
wrote:
> Errin - if you're after caliper to rim measurements for a 2nd
gen VR-4 I
> think you cannot compare to a Stealth TT. As recently
discovered by Mike
> Chapelski it appears that the Stealth TT calipers are
somewhat wider that
> the VR-4 counterpart.
Interesting.
Thanks for pointing that out.
> In case you still need it, my '95 R/T
TT with 18" factory chrome wheels
> measure 7 mm between the outer edge of
the caliper and the inside of the
> rim.
Thanks for the
information, however I don't think I'll be able to use it.
You see, I need
somebody to give me the rotor to caliper edge distance
for an SL so that I
can compare to the distance on my VR4. Why? I
ordered some new
wheels which somebody tried on a 96 SL and they
said they fit with a decent
amount of distance. I ordered these wheels
for my VR4, and I want to
figure out the margin of difference between
the caliper size (how far they
stick out from the rotor) on an SL and
on a VR4. This will let me know
which size spacer I will probably need
to use (I'll already gain 8mm
clearance from a lower offset).
Thanks for the help!
- --Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:38:12 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Someone w/ SL please help
Maybe you missed my earlier post:
"SL/VR4 Caliper Clearance."
Maybe my post was a bit unclear.
If you
have a 3000GT SL could you PLEASE do the following? ...
1) Take a ruler
and another small ruler (or something small and straight).
2) Go to one
of your car's front wheels.
3) Put the ruler's end straight against the
brake rotor, near the caliper.
4) Use the other small ruler (or straight
thingie) and hold it against the
side of the caliper, perpendicular to the
other ruler.
5) Read the point where they touch. This will give the
distance from
the brake rotor to the farthest out point on the brake
caliper.
I don't need a really accurate measurement, just a ballpark
figure in
inches or millimeters.
For reference sake, on a '94 3000GT
VR4 the distance from the
surface of the rotor to the farthest out point on
the brake caliper
(edge of the Mitsubishi lettering on the caliper) is about
2.25 inches.
I need to know a ballpark figure for how much thinner the SL
calipers
are compared to the VR4 calipers because I have ordered
some
wheels which somebody says fit on an SL but they aren't sure about
a
VR4. This will let me know the size of spacer I might have to
order.
It would probably help if your 3000GT SL is second-gen (like
the
one which tried on the wheels) since I'm not sure if there is a
difference
in caliper size between 1st and 2nd gen SL calipers.
I
really appreciate some help here.
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:23:59 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Someone w/ SL please help
OK, I'm not sure if I have the correct
measurement yer asking for, but here
goes :). I have a '95 3000GT Base,
which should be the same as the SL, with
the exception of the ABS. So
for this measurement that might make a
differenct :). I'm not to up on
all my technical terminology with cars, so
lemme ask now what the calipers
are just to clairfy I did this right. I
know what the rotors are, and
I'm assuming that the calipers are what hold
the brake pads and actually
squeeze them against the rotor right? If this
is correct, then what I
just did was take a small piece of paper, held it
perpendicular to the rotor,
then took a pencil, laid it flat against the
farthest out piece of the
caliper, and marked the paper. I then came in and
measured the distance
from the edge of the paper that was against the rotor
to the mark made by the
pencil. My result was 1 and 3/8 inches, which
converts to 34.925
mm.
again, dunno if this is what yer looking for, but I tried
:).
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 23:19:25 -0500
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Dumb Question,
but curious
Hello all,
Recently I took the front
license plate off my 93 Stealth RT, now
that plate is required in my state so
hush-hush. I know from people
I've seen on the road that it's not
unusual at all.
The real question, not to get my or
anybody elses hopes up, but I
can't help but wonder how well a police officer
can get a radar signal
off of this car. From my experience in another
car club, and
information an ex-military man was able to give me on how radar
requires
a very specific reflection, it does make you wonder.
Anybody
know? Anyone put a gun to it and found out? I'm not relying on
it
yet, but it'd be interesting to know what y'all think,
-
--Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Oct 1999 23:04:24 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dumb
Question, but curious
Well from my understanding on the way police radar
works is that it doesn't
take a very specific 'signature' or profile of your
vehicle, it just relies
on the doppler shift on the signal to calculate the
speed. The way all
police radar guns work (except laser of course :) is
they scan the area, and
then show what the strongest signal returned was on
the readout. Hence why
if your traveling in a pack of cars, and a cop
clocks the pack, he has to
determine (or rather GUESS) which car was doing
the returned speed. One
fact to note though is that big vehicles
(trucks in other words) will ALWAYS
return the strongest signal no matter
what. So if a trucks doing 50, and
you zip buy at 80, he'll get a 50
reading because the trucks return signal
is much stronger. This is
another reason why you should always ask to see
the gun reading for yourself
when they pull you over (I've heard of cops
trying to pull a fast one where
they didn't even clock you at all). If they
refuse, you make them write
that on the ticket and point that one out to the
judge :).
another
little trick of note that I read in Car and Driver a long ways back
on ways
to defeat laser radar when they were first introduced. One method
they
came up with and tested is to put an extremely high candle-watt powered
light
(like the ones the cops use) on the front of your car near the lisence
plate
(because that's where they aim their laser guns due to the lisence
plates
highly reflective surface). Aim it forward, and then put an
infra-red
filter on it (so it blocks all spectrum of light except ir). This
won't
defeat a laser radar gun, but it will confuse it for a while giving
you more
time to slow down if you have a laser radar detector (like buy an
additional
2- 4seconds depending upon distance). They way they described
how this
works is imagine walking into a gymnasium full of people. You're
on one
side, and a friend is across all the people on the other. If
everybodie
is quite, you can hear each other fine, but when everybody's
talking, you'll
be lucky if you can pick out a word or two from your friend.
That's what the
light with the filter does. You're flooding the area with
tons of extra
ir light therefore confusing the gun as two which signal was
the original
'bounce', so it takes it a while longer to get the reading thus
giving you
the extra time to slow down :). The other great thing is it's
perfectly
legal because with the filter, the light will appear off because
no regular
light will emmit from it at all, and it's not illegal to emit
light
:).
Anyways, just a little bit of info for ya :)
Latufh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:43:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Apexi AFC
> I just picked up an Apexi AFC (not the latest one)
and plugged it in my
> VR-4. Can anybody advice me on how to tune it
effectively so that I
> don't melt my engine in the process ? And what
would be a conservative
> setting on the various RPMs that I could start
with ?
This depends on the injectors you are running. With stock
injectors, the AFC should not be used. Also, you need an A/F meter and even
better an EGR to tune any fuel device. The best would be a logging
device.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #317
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