--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #312
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Tuesday, October 19 1999        Volume 01 : Number 312




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 12:40:18 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring

> I decided to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed
> the procedures correctly (warm not hot engine, covered air
> filters and BOV). After I cranked it back up,
> the engine was running rough.

Other things to cover:

Coil packs
Throttle Position Sensor
Cam Angle Sensor (if these cars have one, I don't know)

You probably also want to avoid getting the area under the intake plenum wet, as that is where the knock sensor is located.

Sounds like maybe some moisture got under the plug wires on the coil packs.  That would cause them to short to the block under load.  Pull the caps off and let them dry for a while and try again.  Label them so you know which one goes where.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:51:11 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injector duty & new Apexi AVC-R

Hi Roger,

"R.G." wrote:
>
> I just got the boost controller for one of my customers and I runned into a
> simple and maybe stupid question :
>
> > There is also a mode where you can display a graph with one of the above
> > parameters on the Y axis against RPM on the X axis.  In this mode, you can
> > select 1 point, 10 point (it looks like a snake moving around the graph), or
> > ghost trace where all points remain illuminated until reset. You can also do a
> > manual hold, but I'm not sure if the peak hold works on this display.  It was
> > with this graph in ghost trace that I could determine the RPM where my IDC
> > usually hit 100%.

Them thar is my words ;), I can't remember who I sent them to though.

>
> This made me thinking as you can only attach to the RPM OR the INJECTOR wire at
> once to the ECU.

Why Apexi didn't provide one more wire so you can have both RPM and IDC
connected I'll never know.  Maybe they will in the future.

I originally connected to the IDC wire.  Now I have a switch installed.  I
normally leave it selected so I connect to the RPM wire, but I can select the
IDC whenever I choose.  I highly recommend doing this!

> So if the IDC is attched how does the unit know the RPM ???

Good question, I don't know.  My best guess is that it monitors the injector
pulse frequency and divides by 6 (also when connected to the IDC wire, you have
to set your engine type to 1 cylinder instead of 6 cylinder). 

> I
> was walking up and down the manual and often found the note or warning about
> whatever is connected. For sure, the most interesting diaplys would be boost
> against rpm and IDC against RPM. The first is no problem but what if the sensor
> line is connected to the injector wire ? The manual says that the self learning
> mode as well as gear learning is not workign well when IDC is connected isntead
> of RPM. What are your experiences here ?

DISPLAY:
When the injectors max out to 100%, the IDC to RPM conversion algorithm fails.
Any graph display with RPM on the X axis shows points in random places until IDC
falls below 100%.  Any RPM display shows bogus values.

LEARNING:
The Apexi allows you to specify different boost values at eight selectable RPM
bands.  Normally the Apexi LEARNS the correct boost solenoid duty value for each
RPM band.  However duty settings are not learned/updated correctly above the RPM
(about 4400RPM or so) where IDC maxes out.

Definitely install the new-blue Apexi SAVC-R to the RPM wire.  If you will want
to monitor the IDC, then install a simple toggle switch to allow selection
between the RPM and IDC wire.

Good luck,
Ken
- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:03:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bent Key

> I'm not sure, but isn't there something where you can give mitsubishi yer
> VIN and they can get you a key?  not sure, I might be thinking of a
> different car part.  Else yer going to have to pay a locksmith to come out
> and mold a key for it on the spot :(.

yes, you can do this... I went to get a new key and all you need is your
VIN... and I belive you need to have the title with you for obvious
reasons...

they have a really cool tool to do it, too...

andy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:10:38 -0500
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bent Key

Thanks all, I went to the mitsubishi dealer and they were able to make a new key on the
spot using the numbers engraved on the side of the key for $4.

Thanks for your help,
- --Rich

Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell wrote:

> I'm not sure, but isn't there something where you can give mitsubishi yer
> VIN and they can get you a key?  not sure, I might be thinking of a
> different car part.  Else yer going to have to pay a locksmith to come out
> and mold a key for it on the spot :(.
>
> Latufh fuh U,
> Benson
> benson@2015.com
>
> "-Do you ever have second thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:44:10 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Road America Track Report

There's good news and bad news.

The good news:  Road America was designed for VR4s. The ultra long
straights let the turbos sing, so almost no street-driven car can keep up
with a stock VR4 (except one car, a souped-up Supra. See below). In my
stock VR4, I was able to pass BMW M3s, Z3 sedans, and all the lesser BMW
versions (318, 540i, an older M6, etc.);  Porsche 911s including Carreras
and turbos, Porsche 944s including turbos; and -- as far as I can tell --
every car in my class, save one (the Supra).  No one else passed me all
weekend. The VR4 rules!  (There were no Vipers or twin-turbo AWD Porsches
in my group). All drivers were considered Intermediates, meaning we had
some track or school experience, and required instructors.

The bad news:  Braking at the end of ultra long straights causes tremendous
wear on the pads. I'm running Porterfield rotors, Porterfield R4 pads front
and rear, air ducts to the front, and water injection to the center of the
rotors (not the rotor surface). Still, I wore down a set of front R4 pads
in three 25 minute track sessions.  The only good news in all this is that
the brakes WILL stop the car, and they do not fade. They just wear out.

A lap of Road America in a stock VR4 with Yokohama 032R tires:
(From memory, because my track map disappeared)

First of all, RA is mostly a lot of early apex turns, different from most
tracks. It's a lot of: Go very fast, brake, turn in very early under power,
clip the apex at full power, and drift to the outside. Then full power down
another long straight to the next corner. I can't remember a single late
apex turn (maybe 8, see below, because I never got it right). My instructor
didn't use such terms anyway -- it was "turn in here, get on the power
NOW," or "brake, Brake, BRAKE, BRAKE!!!." My favorite was, "If you do that
again, you'll total this car!" (I was doing something bad in the Kink, see
below) He got my attention.  Although he completely disagreed with the Skip
Barber school instructors who were giving the chalk sessions, he certainly
knew the fast way around, because he took me for a ride in his
race-prepared 944.

But I digress. Here's a lap of Road America in a VR4:

Long uphill from turn 14 to the start-finish line at 100. Continue
accelerating uphill, hitting about 120 before braking for turn 1.
Turn 1 is a long sweeping right, taken in third gear at about 70-75.

Accelerate out, then flat through 2  (a corner in name only) up to about
100, brake, then into a sweeping right at 3 onto the back straight at about
70-80. Speed through 3 is critical, because it leads to a one-mile straight.

Turn 4, in the middle of the straight, is taken flat at about 100 (another
non corner), then it's downhill through the woods to turn 5 at about 130.

Turn 5 is the brake killer: it's a downhill, 90-deg left that tightens, so
you gotta go all the way from 130 down to 2nd gear at about 45 mph. I wore
down my rightside pads first on this turn because of the tremendous heavy
braking. Power through 5 in 2nd, then up the hill to 6, a sharp left after
a bridge. Brake before going under the bridge, then turn left into 6 after
the bridge.

7 is a sweeping right. Stab the brakes slightly to transfer weight, turn in
way before the corner (very early apex), then power on through the apex and
down the hill at about 105 to turn 8, the toughest turn (for me). It's a
downhill sharp left, a little off camber, and I never did get the braking
and turn-in quite right for two days.

Turn 8 is the carousel. This is a fairly easy, constant radius turn to the
right taken three ft off the inside curb in 3rd gear at about 65. My son
also took his Fiero through here at 65. At the end, pinch tighter to the
curb, feed in the power, drift left and accelerate up about 105-110 before
the infamous Kink.

(without my map, I lose track of corner numbers, so bear with me)
To take the Kink, tap the brakes at the entry, feed in gas smoothly, turn
in to the right about 50 yards before the apex and clip the apex in 4th
gear, at about 95. Then feed more and more power, clip the exit,  move to
the right a little, turn in to the left by turning the wheel about 1/8 turn
to the left, and just hold it there. From here, it's a constant-radius
series of turns taken flat out, foot to the floor, turbos pulling like
crazy in 4th from 110 mph up to gawdonlyknows how fast, and it's the
fastest part of the track. In all my track experiences so far, going from
the Kink to Canada Corner is the most exciting thing I've ever done. It's
also mesmerizing -- you get so enthralled with the experience of going so
fast,  the car in its element, doing exactly what those Japanese design
engineers intended, that it's hypnotic -- omigawd, I'm in a corner at well
over 100 mph and the car is still accelerating! Let this feeling go on
forever! -- problem is, you tend to forget that Canada Corner is coming up
and OSHIT I GOTTASTOPTHISSUCKER!!!  Whew!  Luckily, the R4s do work, and
they do stop the car, although it gets exciting if you wait too long and
the instructor yells a lot (see above).

My son in his Fiero could also go flat from the entry of the Kink to Canada
Corner, and he was hitting about 105 when he reached his braking point.

Canada Corner is a sweeping right. Brake, hit the apex under full power in
3rd gear, drift left to the exit and bring it back to the right for a
medium left under a bridge. My instructor would have me stab the brakes to
transfer weight, then full power back on, clip the apex on the left and let
it drift wide to the right then straighten up and flat to the braking point
for corner 14.

My son was flat in his Fiero from Canada Corner to 14; I was flat in 3rd
most of the way, but I had to stab the brakes before the bridge because I
was carrying too much speed. We both arrived at 14 doing about 100 mph.
(Judging by his descriptions of speeds and corners, his automatic V6 Fiero
sticks like glue and stops extremely well, so on his very first driving
event, he was keeping up with other novices in M3s and other cars through
the turns. They ate him up on the straights, of course.).

Turn 14 is a hard right onto the front straight at about 60, in 3rd. From
there, it's just a highway cruise up the long hill all the way to turn 1.

I never achieved ALL of the above in a single lap -- by the time I learned
the perfect lines, I was into save-the-brakes mode big time, and was no
longer attempting to stop the car from speeds over 100. Instead, I would
lift long before the corner, so that I entered the braking zone at 100. (If
I was running for lap times, I would attempt to run a lap the way I
described above.) Instead, I would just use the straights to pass lesser
cars, like M3s and 911s, at speeds of 110-120, get in front, and then lift
to coast back down to 100. They'd close up under braking, mad as hornets,
but then I'd run away from them.

About the Supra:
Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
better.

NEXT: ADVENTURES IN BRAKING IV
.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!





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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 02:14:45 -0700
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring

Hi Jeff,

I had a similar problem with my car last year.
It turned up to be fouled up plugs, even though they were less than 1 year
old.

I guess certain conditions can cause them to go south.
Try removing all 3 front ones.  If you have black smot all around the tips,
you're
running rich and have probably fouled up your plugs.

It's a long shot, but it may work.
Best of luck

- -Noble


- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 9:31 AM
Subject: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring


>My '92 VR4 was running fine before I changed the oil. I changed over to
>synthetic oil, flushing the motor first. It cranked up and ran fine. I
drove it
>for about 10 minutes and stopped. After the engine cooled down a bit, I
decided
>to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed the procedures
correctly
>(warm not hot engine, covered air filters and BOV). After I cranked it back
up,
>the engine was running rough. I drove it into the garage and let it sit
>overnight, thinking that water had gotten someplace it shouldn't and would
dry
>out. The next morning. It was still running rough. It wasn't a steady
missfire,
>but would misfire under slight acceleration, and would
pull-and-jerk-and-pop
>under heavy acceleration (like it does if your boost is set too high and
it's
>starving for fuel). After driving like this for about 5 minutes, it tried
to
>smooth out, as the engine quit misfiring under normal load, but would still
>pull-jerk-pop under heavy acceleration. I drove it another 20 minutes,
stopped
>for an hour, and when I started it back up, it began misfiring almost
>continuously. I put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas, drove for
about 10
>minutes, let it sit overnight, and when I fired it up the next morning, it
ran
>smooth for about 2 minutes, then misfires continuously. Under heavy
>acceleration, it still pulls-jerks-pops like before.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:08:50 -0500
From: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America Track Report

Hi Rich - Found a pic of your track here: http://www.ompusa.com/grm/ra.htm

Looks (and sounds) like way too much fun for my fainting heart...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 3:44 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Road America Track Report
>
> There's good news and bad news.
>
> The good news:  Road America was designed for VR4s. The ultra long
> straights let the turbos sing, so almost no street-driven car can keep up
> with a stock VR4 (except one car, a souped-up Supra. See below). In my
> stock VR4, I was able to pass BMW M3s, Z3 sedans, and all the lesser BMW
> versions (318, 540i, an older M6, etc.);  Porsche 911s including Carreras
> and turbos, Porsche 944s including turbos; and -- as far as I can tell --
> every car in my class, save one (the Supra).  No one else passed me all
> weekend. The VR4 rules!  (There were no Vipers or twin-turbo AWD Porsches
> in my group). All drivers were considered Intermediates, meaning we had
> some track or school experience, and required instructors.
>
> The bad news:  Braking at the end of ultra long straights causes
> tremendous
> wear on the pads. I'm running Porterfield rotors, Porterfield R4 pads
> front
> and rear, air ducts to the front, and water injection to the center of the
> rotors (not the rotor surface). Still, I wore down a set of front R4 pads
> in three 25 minute track sessions.  The only good news in all this is that
> the brakes WILL stop the car, and they do not fade. They just wear out.
>
> A lap of Road America in a stock VR4 with Yokohama 032R tires:
> (From memory, because my track map disappeared)
>
> First of all, RA is mostly a lot of early apex turns, different from most
> tracks. It's a lot of: Go very fast, brake, turn in very early under
> power,
> clip the apex at full power, and drift to the outside. Then full power
> down
> another long straight to the next corner. I can't remember a single late
> apex turn (maybe 8, see below, because I never got it right). My
> instructor
> didn't use such terms anyway -- it was "turn in here, get on the power
> NOW," or "brake, Brake, BRAKE, BRAKE!!!." My favorite was, "If you do that
> again, you'll total this car!" (I was doing something bad in the Kink, see
> below) He got my attention.  Although he completely disagreed with the
> Skip
> Barber school instructors who were giving the chalk sessions, he certainly
> knew the fast way around, because he took me for a ride in his
> race-prepared 944.
>
> But I digress. Here's a lap of Road America in a VR4:
>
> Long uphill from turn 14 to the start-finish line at 100. Continue
> accelerating uphill, hitting about 120 before braking for turn 1.
> Turn 1 is a long sweeping right, taken in third gear at about 70-75.
>
> Accelerate out, then flat through 2  (a corner in name only) up to about
> 100, brake, then into a sweeping right at 3 onto the back straight at
> about
> 70-80. Speed through 3 is critical, because it leads to a one-mile
> straight.
>
> Turn 4, in the middle of the straight, is taken flat at about 100 (another
> non corner), then it's downhill through the woods to turn 5 at about 130.
>
> Turn 5 is the brake killer: it's a downhill, 90-deg left that tightens, so
> you gotta go all the way from 130 down to 2nd gear at about 45 mph. I wore
> down my rightside pads first on this turn because of the tremendous heavy
> braking. Power through 5 in 2nd, then up the hill to 6, a sharp left after
> a bridge. Brake before going under the bridge, then turn left into 6 after
> the bridge.
>
> 7 is a sweeping right. Stab the brakes slightly to transfer weight, turn
> in
> way before the corner (very early apex), then power on through the apex
> and
> down the hill at about 105 to turn 8, the toughest turn (for me). It's a
> downhill sharp left, a little off camber, and I never did get the braking
> and turn-in quite right for two days.
>
> Turn 8 is the carousel. This is a fairly easy, constant radius turn to the
> right taken three ft off the inside curb in 3rd gear at about 65. My son
> also took his Fiero through here at 65. At the end, pinch tighter to the
> curb, feed in the power, drift left and accelerate up about 105-110 before
> the infamous Kink.
>
> (without my map, I lose track of corner numbers, so bear with me)
> To take the Kink, tap the brakes at the entry, feed in gas smoothly, turn
> in to the right about 50 yards before the apex and clip the apex in 4th
> gear, at about 95. Then feed more and more power, clip the exit,  move to
> the right a little, turn in to the left by turning the wheel about 1/8
> turn
> to the left, and just hold it there. From here, it's a constant-radius
> series of turns taken flat out, foot to the floor, turbos pulling like
> crazy in 4th from 110 mph up to gawdonlyknows how fast, and it's the
> fastest part of the track. In all my track experiences so far, going from
> the Kink to Canada Corner is the most exciting thing I've ever done. It's
> also mesmerizing -- you get so enthralled with the experience of going so
> fast,  the car in its element, doing exactly what those Japanese design
> engineers intended, that it's hypnotic -- omigawd, I'm in a corner at well
> over 100 mph and the car is still accelerating! Let this feeling go on
> forever! -- problem is, you tend to forget that Canada Corner is coming up
> and OSHIT I GOTTASTOPTHISSUCKER!!!  Whew!  Luckily, the R4s do work, and
> they do stop the car, although it gets exciting if you wait too long and
> the instructor yells a lot (see above).
>
> My son in his Fiero could also go flat from the entry of the Kink to
> Canada
> Corner, and he was hitting about 105 when he reached his braking point.
>
> Canada Corner is a sweeping right. Brake, hit the apex under full power in
> 3rd gear, drift left to the exit and bring it back to the right for a
> medium left under a bridge. My instructor would have me stab the brakes to
> transfer weight, then full power back on, clip the apex on the left and
> let
> it drift wide to the right then straighten up and flat to the braking
> point
> for corner 14.
>
> My son was flat in his Fiero from Canada Corner to 14; I was flat in 3rd
> most of the way, but I had to stab the brakes before the bridge because I
> was carrying too much speed. We both arrived at 14 doing about 100 mph.
> (Judging by his descriptions of speeds and corners, his automatic V6 Fiero
> sticks like glue and stops extremely well, so on his very first driving
> event, he was keeping up with other novices in M3s and other cars through
> the turns. They ate him up on the straights, of course.).
>
> Turn 14 is a hard right onto the front straight at about 60, in 3rd. From
> there, it's just a highway cruise up the long hill all the way to turn 1.
>
> I never achieved ALL of the above in a single lap -- by the time I learned
> the perfect lines, I was into save-the-brakes mode big time, and was no
> longer attempting to stop the car from speeds over 100. Instead, I would
> lift long before the corner, so that I entered the braking zone at 100.
> (If
> I was running for lap times, I would attempt to run a lap the way I
> described above.) Instead, I would just use the straights to pass lesser
> cars, like M3s and 911s, at speeds of 110-120, get in front, and then lift
> to coast back down to 100. They'd close up under braking, mad as hornets,
> but then I'd run away from them.
>
> About the Supra:
> Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
> what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
> train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
> like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
> and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
> whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
> better.
>
> NEXT: ADVENTURES IN BRAKING IV
> .
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>
>
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 23:26:01 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

> Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
> what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
> train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
> like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
> and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
> whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
> better.

Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we are
running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys car
runs like hell since then. He's running 1.6 kg/cm2 = 22.7 psi with just an
AVC-R, Apexi filter, Field fuel controller (that does not much) and downpipe
(no cats). We once drove a little bit fast on nice roads and I was not able
to follow him on straight roads. But in and out of the turns I was back on
his tail (AWD rules). The thing is really fast even as an automatic ... not
bad.

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 17:39:51 -0400
From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Burning smell from car?

I've had a similar smell at times - seems to be the clutch. I usually get it after I have used the clutch hard - might be a signal that its time to replace the clutch?

Kevin

3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:00:14 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: EE knowledge needed (important)

Friends,

Although I have a degree in EE I forgot everything about analoge techniques
as I always was the computer freak. But maybe you know that I'm testing a
new ignition system as well as I had a new idea about enhancing our stock
ignition system.

Now, I'm able to draw a schematic dagram but I don't know how to calculate a
high current switch with an analoge inverter as well I'm not familiar with
the available transistor types. I therefore would highly appreciate the help
of an EE that has good knowledge of the stuff. I think it would be easy as I
know all input parameters and I can solder the parts together on a test
circuit and test it out on my car. Also it would help when the schematic
diagram can be checked out as I may missed a part or so.

So, every EE with good experience and knowledge please email me and I can
send you the details I've put together. The result will then be a pretty
cheap ignition enhancer that should be able to create more power to the
spark. Then a small ignition amplifier like the B&M can be added to inrease
the voltage even more to fully cure our hesitation problem.

Thanks in advance,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:33:49 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

At 11:26 PM 10/18/99 +0200, R.G. wrote:
>> Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
>> what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
>> train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
>> like a rocket ship.
>
>Make the hp figure above 500hp !

Thanks Roger. I feel even better now!

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:06:45 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America Track Report

At 04:08 PM 10/18/99 -0500, Landis, Michael wrote:
>Hi Rich - Found a pic of your track here: http://www.ompusa.com/grm/ra.htm
>Looks (and sounds) like way too much fun for my fainting heart...
>
Thanks! I see that the Carousel is turn 9, not 8. Ooops.

Rich/old poop

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:10:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Check out my new updated site!

Hi Fellow 3S owners,

Check out me new and updated site.  Im still a
beginner at the HTML stuff.. let me know what you
think. Thanx.

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

George Kuo
3SI#0139

P.S. Sorry Team3S List for a non topic!


=====

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:16:26 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: VGX pads..... any good?

I can get VGX pads at a great price (compared to others) but what am I
really getting?  Anyone have any experience with there pads?  At $19.95 a
set if they wear twice as fast as the others I will still be ahead of the
game.  They are made by Brembo..... can't be all that bad can they?

TIA,

Kevin

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:27:31 EDT
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Possible source for synchros?

Saw an ad for this importer of drive train components. Quaife engineering
offers complete gear sets for various cars - didn't see 3000GT/Stealth
listed, but I did see diff. sets for Eclipse/Talon/Laser cars.

check it out:

http://www.autotech.com/qpsnew.htm

This outfit might be able to supply synchros after the current supply dries
up? (Jack Tertadian is the only other source I know of - he uses some amazing
sort of diplomacy to sneak synchros directly from Getrag for us)

Paul Klusman
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:52:03 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S: Engine

I was wondering exactly what kind of a powerplant a 98 3000GT would be
using? is it a 4g63 or a 6g72b?

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:14:25 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring

> My '92 VR4 was running fine before I changed the oil. I changed over to
> synthetic oil, flushing the motor first. It cranked up and ran fine. I drove it
> for about 10 minutes and stopped. After the engine cooled down a bit, I decided
> to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed the procedures correctly
> (warm not hot engine, covered air filters and BOV). After I cranked it back up,
> the engine was running rough. I drove it into the garage and let it sit
> overnight, thinking that water had gotten someplace it shouldn't and would dry
> -====================================================

You may have gotten water in the spark plug wells ---- plug wire problems will
cause missfire under load.


   Jim Berry

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 22:04:32 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America Track Report

Great race report.  Wish I could have been there.  By the judging of you
race commentary I think you'd enjoy Brainerd International Raceway up her in
Minnesota.  At turn 1 off the long straight I was consistently doing 140.  A
very seasoned race driver in a '97 AWD 911T reported 154!  He had them big
brakes too...
We are going to BIR twice next year.  I'll keep you informed in case you
want to come up here and see some trees :)  I'd like to do more events next
year, hopefully expanding to other tracks in the region.  Hopefully we will
run the same track at some point.

Question: Have you tried the heat treatment of the R4s??  That would be BBQ.
I recall someone reporting double life expectancy after this treatment.  Are
you using the racing compound R4s??

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

> There's good news and bad news.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 22:57:53 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

"R.G." wrote:

> > like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
> > and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
> > whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
> > better.
>
> Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
> ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we are
> running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys car

Here's an analysis by a friend of mine (and a Supra guru):

>Nice. But informe that guy that 28 PSI is roughly 750 RWHP in a Supra;)
>The guy was obviously lying about the boost he was running. Plus the stock
>turbos can't do 28 PSI anyway.

- --Errin Humphrey


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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 01:23:07 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

>> > like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
>> >
Roger said:
>> Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
>> ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we
are
>> running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys
car

Errin said:
>Here's an analysis by a friend of mine (and a Supra guru):
>
>>Nice. But informe that guy that 28 PSI is roughly 750 RWHP in a Supra;)
>>The guy was obviously lying about the boost he was running. Plus the stock
>>turbos can't do 28 PSI anyway.

Or maybe he had upgraded the turbos, too. 750 hp? I feel  better all the
time about getting passed.

Rich/old poop

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 03:25:04 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

In a message dated 10/19/99 1:29:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net writes:

<< >> > like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost
(28psi!!),
 >> >
 Roger said:
 >> Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
 >> ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we
 are
 >> running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys
 car
 
 Errin said:
 >Here's an analysis by a friend of mine (and a Supra guru):
 >
 >>Nice. But informe that guy that 28 PSI is roughly 750 RWHP in a Supra;)
 >>The guy was obviously lying about the boost he was running. Plus the stock
 >>turbos can't do 28 PSI anyway.
 
 Or maybe he had upgraded the turbos, too. 750 hp? I feel  better all the
 time about getting passed.
 
 Rich/old poop
  >>

    Most hardcore Supra owners convert their Sequential twin turbo set-up
into a Single conversion set up!!  Two of my friends have these set ups!!! 
AMAZINGLY fast set ups!!!!!   If the guy said he was running 28psi - I'm
almost willing to bet that it was a Single HUGE Turbo ( I believe, it's
referred to as a T-66 turbo; but don't quote me on that!!)  I wonder if
someone will ever be able to convert our parallel Twin Turbo set up into a
single HUGE Turbo set up?????  (I'm sure this thought has been discussed
before!  And something tells me - it's NOT possible!)

By the way Rich,  EXCELLENT Post !!!!! 

Talk to you all later,
Ahmed.
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 12:03:05 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine

6G72 is the type of all 3S cars. I'm not sure about the "b" but could be a
generation code (b = 4 bolt main)

>I was wondering exactly what kind of a powerplant a 98 3000GT would be
>using? is it a 4g63 or a 6g72b?


// Roger

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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:57:59 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

> I wonder if someone will ever be able to convert our parallel
> Twin Turbo set up into a single HUGE Turbo set up?????  (I'm
> sure this thought has been discussed before!  And something
> tells me - it's NOT possible!)

Possible, yes.  Realistic, no.  Essentially you'd have your large turbo somewhere in the downpipe where both sets of exhaust flow were collected before entering the turbo.  You'd lose a lot of the exhaust pulse power and EGT's would have a chance to cool somewhat before reaching that point.

Easy to do on a straight-six, not so easy on a V6 - and overall whether you have two small turbos or one large turbo it doesn't make that much difference if the flow rates overall are similar.  Well, except for the thinness of your wallet buying two turbos.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:04:18 EDT
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Laser Jammer Info

Hi All!

   Don't know if this is a "taboo" subject here, but with all of you here
who have Go-Go-fast cars, I would think that some of you would have looked
into this.
Just to be safe, if you could reply privately, I would greatly appreciate
it. :)

Here's my message/question:

   Well, it now looks like the "staties" in my area have now updated their
arsenal to include laser guns!  Oh, horrible day. :(

Now I need to keep up with the Jones's in blue, and am currently looking for
a laser jamming device.

Can anyone lend a hand with some useful information about which laser
jammers work well, and how well they would work with my Valentine 1?

Much obliged!

Regards,
   Dennis

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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 10:59:40 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Road America experience on video/web site

A new friend of mine put his experiences at Road America onto a web site:

http://www.gagme.com/~greg/911/track/roadamerica1.html

Included is video of a complete lap and lots of photos. Bear in mind that
he's driving an inferior Porsche 911, so he's going a lot slower than we
do. Still, you can certainly get the idea of what it's like out there.

Note that in the kink, he passes a car. The car waves him by -- that's the
only way you are allowed to pass.

It's a great site!  Check it out.
You guys CAN do this!

Rich/old poop/94 VR4


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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 15:08:37 -0400
From: "SkoobY" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)

Yes but the 300zx's are V6, and they have single turbo upgrades... why is it
different in our case?

Carlos


- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America (Supra)


>> I wonder if someone will ever be able to convert our parallel
>> Twin Turbo set up into a single HUGE Turbo set up?????  (I'm
>> sure this thought has been discussed before!  And something
>> tells me - it's NOT possible!)
>
>Possible, yes.  Realistic, no.  Essentially you'd have your large turbo
somewhere in the downpipe where both sets of exhaust flow were collected
before entering the turbo.  You'd lose a lot of the exhaust pulse power and
EGT's would have a chance to cool somewhat before reaching that point.
>
>Easy to do on a straight-six, not so easy on a V6 - and overall whether you
have two small turbos or one large turbo it doesn't make that much
difference if the flow rates overall are similar.  Well, except for the
thinness of your wallet buying two turbos.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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