--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #311
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Monday, October 18 1999 Volume
01 : Number
311
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 18:32:51 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: It Works! (at least half of it, anyway)
> got to reduce my
plug gaps to .034 in. to prevent it from missing.
What was the peak boost
? But for sure, reducing the gap is the first what
should be
done.
> One problem though: I can't get the thing to select "B,"
to do the
> second set-up. I thought just pressing the select button
would
> switch back and forth between A and B, but mine stays in
A.
Umpf, AVC1 or 2 ??
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:33:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Updated site with MAF information, etc.
Check out the promised
information about the SplitSecond ARC2-GP MAF
conversion kit with tunign
tetails, datalogs, pics and more.
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html
PS:
GeoCities again made the sites slower but I hope it's not too bad as I
tried
to optimize the pics.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 17:46:33 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheels....
I'm sorry if I'm full of questions
lately... but...
I got a decent bonus from work and the money's
burning a
hole in my pocket. I'm looking at buying
a new set of
wheels/tires. I've already decided on
Pirelli P7000 SuperSport
tires. Looking at wheels
has become a chore. I've put
together a page to
get your opinions. I've got it narrowed all the
way
down to 10 different wheels. <urp!>
If
you've got a few minutes... give it a look
and let me know which tires look
better on my baby.
Thanx...
http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT
Select
"Which Wheels Should I buy?" from the
main menu....
Thanx
again....
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 16:59:25 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheels....
I think you'll be very satisfied with those Pirelli's, I know
I am with mine
;). Enjoy the traction :).
Latufh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 18:56:30 EDT
From: UNCLEDONUT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Updated site with MAF information, etc.
In a message dated 10/17/99
5:36:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
robby@freesurf.ch writes:
> Check
out the promised information about the SplitSecond ARC2-GP MAF
>
conversion kit with tunign tetails, datalogs, pics and more.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html
>
> PS: GeoCities again made the sites slower but I hope it's not too
bad as I
> tried to optimize the pics.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
Roger,
I was
checking out your website regarding the installation of the
SplitSecond
ARC2-GP MAF. As usual you have done a wonderful job. My only
question with it is about the use of silicone spray to assist sliding the
parts together. I've always thought that allowing silicone into the
intake
system meant instant death to the O2 sensors. I could be
wrong. Has anyone
else heard of this?
- -Dave Rich
'91 R/T
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:22:34 -0500
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Bent
Key
Hello all, first time poster here,
Not long ago
the lock on the tailgate of my 92 stealth was sticking,
the key wouldn't turn
at all. Some WD-40 did the trick, but I realized
my key was bent!
I then was not happy to notice I could bend it back
with my bare hands.
Well, I went through some steps from there and now
my key won't open the
doors, tailgate, or start the car. I picked this
vehicle up recently
and don't have a spare. I am not happy, especially
how silly it seems
that my key is that maluable. It doesn't even go in
all the way
anymore, but it looks as straight as can be.
Any ideas?
TIA,
-
--Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:43:43 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bent Key
You should be able to get a decent "keymaker" to
duplicate the key for you
with no problem.
Brad
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Rah
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 1999 11:23 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Bent Key
Hello all, first time poster
here,
Not long ago the lock on the tailgate of my 92
stealth was sticking,
the key wouldn't turn at all. Some WD-40 did the
trick, but I realized
my key was bent! I then was not happy to notice I
could bend it back
with my bare hands. Well, I went through some steps
from there and now
my key won't open the doors, tailgate, or start the
car. I picked this
vehicle up recently and don't have a spare. I
am not happy, especially
how silly it seems that my key is that
maluable. It doesn't even go in
all the way anymore, but it looks as
straight as can be.
Any ideas?
TIA,
- --Rich
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 07:52:31 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Lug Nuts
I purchased a set of used OZ F1 Racing forged wheels a
couple of months
ago. I did a little research and it appeared that they
would fit the
car with no problems. Other list members have the OZ F1
Plus wheels and
they fit on a 2nd gen VR4 with no problems. I went to
install them this
weekend and the spokes interfere with the brake
calipers. I am not sure
why a similar wheel will fit on a VR4, but I do
know that the VR4
caliper is slightly different than the RT TT caliper (VR4
caliper has
mitsubishi cast into the outside) I could return them, I
will have to
pay a lot for shipping and my stock chromeis are pealing REALLY
bad. I
did some measurements and it looks like a 0.2 inch spacer will
give me
enough clearance. Now I know wheel spacers are not recommended
and
dangerous but I am determined to make these wheels fit. I have
access
to a machine shop and I will be making the wheel spacers this
week. I
have already machined a collar to mate the flange on the center
of the
hub to the center hole on the wheel. Therefore I have eliminated
the
shear stress caused by hitting a pothole. However, my lug nuts
are
still sticking out 0.2" more than they should. Which means there
is
more shear stress put on them by wheel torque
during
acceleration/decelleration. The lug nuts still have enough
contact with
the threads so I do not have to worry about that. However,
German roads
are not the best so I would really like to increase my safety
margin a
little. I looked in Jegs and they carry extended hardened lug
bolts but
only in english, not metric sizes. So does anyone know where
I can get
hardened lug bolts that are about 5-8 mm longer than stock.
Also, does
anyone know the size of our lugs. I know they are 12mm, but
how long
are they and what is the diameter of the press-in part? I
can't find
anything in the service manuals.
Thanks,
Mike
C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 00:59:32 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Bent Key
I'm not sure, but isn't there something where you can give
mitsubishi yer
VIN and they can get you a key? not sure, I might be
thinking of a
different car part. Else yer going to have to pay a
locksmith to come out
and mold a key for it on the spot :(.
Latufh
fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 09:56:38 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Updated site with MAF information, etc.
>My only question with
it is about the use of silicone spray to assist
sliding the
>parts
together. I've always thought that allowing silicone into the
intake
>system meant instant death to the O2 sensors. I could be
wrong. Has
anyone
>else heard of this?
Never ever spray
any silicone spray into the throttle body or engine. It is
not heat
resistance and may cause bad things. The amount I used was really
not to
mention and also I may used the wrong words but I didn't used any
silicone
spray on a part where it will be sucked in. The BOV in tube is an
example.
The inlet of the Greddy Type S is somewhat larger in dia than the
stock
valve and it is really not easy to put the hose on. Here I used some
of the
spray to be able to slpi it on. For the MAF, it is absolutely no
problem as
it fits perefctly. But the car may be not young and the oval MAS
has been on
it for years. I used the silicone on the outside to make the
rubber part
smoother to change the shape from oval to round (it also cleaned
the rubber
too). Null problemo as it was a 2 minutes job on my 6 year old
car
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 06:36:31 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Updated site with MAF information, etc.
I would not recommend spraying
anything on the rubber unless it is designed
specifically for rubber, just in
case.
You definitely do not want to risk it on the mating surface.
The propellant
and even the actual lubricant may contain oxidants which may
cause unseen
damage and shorten the life of the rubber. This of course
depends upon the
nature of the lubricant spray, but it is much better to play
it safe, IMO.
An equally effective alternative which should be assured
safe is to use mild
liquid dish soap diluted in water. This is the
technique recommended by
"experts". You only need a very small amount,
just enough to coat the
surface of that portion of the inlet which mates to
the MAF.
Silicone will take a long time to dissipate, which of course is
not
desirable. You do not want lubricant on the mating surfaces
here. The
water/soap mixture will evaporate quickly once heat is
applied and (if
properly diluted) will leave only a small harmless
residual.
When I did my 83mm conversion I used a small amount of
water/soap mixture
only on the very edge of the inlet "lip" to get it
started. Once it got
going it formed well on the MAF. Now it goes
on much easier as it remembers
the shape of the new (round)
MAF.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>My only question with it is about the use of silicone spray to
assist
> sliding the
> >parts together. I've always thought that
allowing silicone into
> the intake
> >system meant instant death
to the O2 sensors. I could be wrong. Has
> anyone
>
>else heard of this?
>
> Never ever spray any silicone spray into
the throttle body or
> engine. It is
> not heat resistance and may
cause bad things. The amount I used was really
> not to mention and also I
may used the wrong words but I didn't used any
> silicone spray on a part
where it will be sucked in. The BOV in tube is an
> example. The inlet of
the Greddy Type S is somewhat larger in
> dia than the
> stock
valve and it is really not easy to put the hose on. Here I used some
> of
the spray to be able to slpi it on. For the MAF, it is absolutely no
>
problem as it fits perefctly. But the car may be not young and
> the oval
MAS
> has been on it for years. I used the silicone on the outside to make
the
> rubber part smoother to change the shape from oval to round
(it
> also cleaned
> the rubber too). Null problemo as it was a 2
minutes job on my 6 year old
> car :)
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 09:06:25 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Over
Boost???
Quick question. I got my boost gauge installed... and on
stock it looks like I was at peak boost at 8psi, but it would spike to 11
occasionally... Now then, I put in a bleeder valve (yeah I know it can be
dangerous, but I am just having a little fun til the dough comes in for a BC)
and I am doing the same thing, peak around 12psi, and spikes to 16. Why is
that spike there, and also, I am not getting any fuel cut, or knocks that I can
tell, I have K&N, Accel wires, and those crappy Rapidfires (that I am
changing soon) Gapped to .034 that is it. So also I ask, should I set it
to 14 psi peak (where it holds for at least a second or two) or 14 psi
spike? I don't wanna have so much fun my engine blows, and also, my
mileage has gone up to about 18-20... I still have no idea why... any help
would... help. Thanks
guys
Ryan
MCSE/ASE
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:35:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Burning smell from car?
I've noticed a strange burning smell
coming from my car. I've been told it
smells like plastic or rubber burning.
I notice it mainly when exiting the car and it seems to be most
noticeable
when I'm standing beside the car, although my girlfriend said that
she
smeleld it through the vent when I popped my hood.
Recently added
soem coolant to teh car (my mechanic did) symptoms appeared
abouta week
later (too much coolant??).. Oil change due in about 500
miles (@ 2500 miles
now on Mobil 1 synthetic & filter).. been running the
heater
some..
Any ideas what the problem could be?
Thanks
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:39:35 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Over Boost???
The stock system consists of the boost solenoid
valve that is alternated and
fully closes above a specific boost. But this
boost is only calculated and
not measured. This results in a slow acting
system and causes the overboost
situation. Also it highly depends on the
meter how good and fast it reads.
The peak situations "can" be dangerous
but usually the peak do not appear at
the dangerous point. Say shifting at
7000 the rpms going down to 5200 and
the peak is shortly at 16psi and falls
off to 12 isn't a problem. With the
bleeder valve only you will enhance the
problematic of the system as the
responsiveness of it will be slower. You'll
also see some overboost with an
EBC but you can control this with the
settings then.
> crappy Rapidfires (that I am changing soon) Gapped to
.034 that is it. So
also I ask, should I set it to 14 psi peak (where
it holds for at least a
second or two) or 14 psi spike? I don't wanna
have so much fun my engine
blows, and also, my mileage has gone up to about
18-20... I still have no
idea why... any help would... help. Thanks
guys
A short "visual" peak to 16 is no problem as holding boost at 14.7
is no
problem too. If you would experience fuel cut at this level your
engine
would not be healthy at all. Fuel cut is initiated by too much knock,
too
high calculated boost and ultra-wide open injectors for a longer
period.
For the mileage, try to compare the steady reading of the stock
boost gauge
and the aftermarket one. You'll probably notice that the stock
one reads
about 1 psi or whatever too high. This is because the ECU thinks it
is at a
specific level due to the barometric sensor and the mass air. Now
this is
not really appropriate and changes with the ambient. Therefore,
you're car
may run even richer as supposed and resetting the ECU and
initiating the
relearn would help. Just unplug your battery for about 15
seconds (the
readings are cleared after that time) or up to 10 minutes for
the sceptics.
Then drive the car around with different load for about 10
minutes and after
some miles your done. This may increase your milage to
22-24.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 17:01:09 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Burning smell from car?
Hi
Do you have a TT?
If so,
check for cracks in the transfercase. It's positioned close to the
downpipe
so when it starts to leak, oil "splashes" over the hot downpipe and
creates a
nice smell. This was how I discovered my first
cracked
transfercase.
Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Monday, October 18, 1999 4:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Burning smell from
car?
I've noticed a strange burning smell coming from my car. I've
been told it
smells like plastic or rubber burning.
I notice it mainly
when exiting the car and it seems to be most noticeable
when I'm standing
beside the car, although my girlfriend said that she
smeleld it through the
vent when I popped my hood.
Recently added soem coolant to teh car (my
mechanic did) symptoms appeared
abouta week later (too much
coolant??).. Oil change due in about 500
miles (@ 2500 miles now on Mobil 1
synthetic & filter).. been running the
heater some..
Any ideas
what the problem could be?
Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:46:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Burning smell from car?
Yep, I've got a VR4. How can I ID the
transfercase? Is this something that
is covered under warranty? Should I just
go down to the dealership and
tell them the transfercase might be
cracked?
Thanks
On Mon, 18 Oct 1999, [iso-8859-1] Mikael Åkesson
wrote:
> Hi
>
> Do you have a TT?
>
> If so,
check for cracks in the transfercase. It's positioned close to the
>
downpipe so when it starts to leak, oil "splashes" over the hot downpipe
and
> creates a nice smell. This was how I discovered my first
cracked
> transfercase.
>
> Mikael Akesson
>
>
http://www.3000gt.nu
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 4:35 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Burning smell
from car?
>
>
> I've noticed a strange burning smell coming
from my car. I've been told it
> smells like plastic or rubber
burning.
>
> I notice it mainly when exiting the car and it seems
to be most noticeable
> when I'm standing beside the car, although my
girlfriend said that she
> smeleld it through the vent when I popped my
hood.
>
> Recently added soem coolant to teh car (my mechanic did)
symptoms appeared
> abouta week later (too much coolant??).. Oil
change due in about 500
> miles (@ 2500 miles now on Mobil 1 synthetic
& filter).. been running the
> heater some..
>
> Any
ideas what the problem could be?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:48:17 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheels....
I'm looking at buying
>a new set of
wheels/tires. I've already decided on
>Pirelli P7000 SuperSport
tires. Looking at wheels
>has become a chore. I've put
together a page to
>get your opinions. I've got it narrowed all the
way
>down to 10 different wheels. <urp!>
The choice may
depend on what you do with your car. If you road race, your
choice is
SEVERELY limited to stock rims or very expensive, strong wheels.
Our cars
develop extremely high cornering loads, and you don't want a
pretty but weak
wheel for racing. If you are just boulevard cruising or
touring, I
guess you can put anything on there.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:53:49 EDT
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Parts Left for Sale - David Skultety
Sorry about the post to the
list
>Do NOT reply to the list, E-mail me directly at dskull@aol.com
<snip>
e a set of
Goodyear Eagle 245/45/17 tires with approx. 1/2 tread
>left. You get the
whole package for 450.00 plus shipping.
Dave, I have sent numerous emails
to you, all without a reply.
I am interested in some of your wares, so please
reply:
dbretton@hotmail.com
Thank you for
your time.
Regards,
Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:26 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject:
Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring
My '92 VR4 was running fine before I
changed the oil. I changed over to
synthetic oil, flushing the motor first.
It cranked up and ran fine. I drove it
for about 10 minutes and stopped.
After the engine cooled down a bit, I decided
to clean it using a degreaser
and water. I followed the procedures correctly
(warm not hot engine, covered
air filters and BOV). After I cranked it back up,
the engine was running
rough. I drove it into the garage and let it sit
overnight, thinking that
water had gotten someplace it shouldn't and would dry
out. The next morning.
It was still running rough. It wasn't a steady missfire,
but would misfire
under slight acceleration, and would pull-and-jerk-and-pop
under heavy
acceleration (like it does if your boost is set too high and it's
starving
for fuel). After driving like this for about 5 minutes, it tried to
smooth
out, as the engine quit misfiring under normal load, but would still
pull-jerk-pop under heavy acceleration. I drove it another 20 minutes,
stopped
for an hour, and when I started it back up, it began misfiring
almost
continuously. I put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas, drove
for about 10
minutes, let it sit overnight, and when I fired it up the next
morning, it ran
smooth for about 2 minutes, then misfires continuously.
Under heavy
acceleration, it still pulls-jerks-pops like before.
The
engine has 109K miles, but I've recently replaced the plugs and wires,
Y-pipe, and some vacuum hoses, so hopefully I can rule out the usual
suspects.
I've never taken out or cleaned the injectors, but have
occasionally run a
cleaner in the gas. Maybe it's coincindental, but I have
to believe that
whatever caused this has something to do with cleaning the
engine with water,
as it ran fine before. Anybody else had this problem? Got
any ideas?
Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:36:17 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Burning smell from car?
Hi
The transfercase is located
between the gearbox and the driveshaft. You will
see it when you look under
the car, it look like a big "SF Gun" from Men in
black :) it has a big GETRAG
printed on it. Visit my homepage
http://www.3000gt.nu and click on "getrag" in
the menu and there you will
find several pics of what it looks like. If you
find any oil on it, DON'T
drive the car or atleast be very
carefull.
Hope it helps (and hope it's not the transfercase that causes
that smell)
Mikael
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike
Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To:
Mikael Åkesson <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Monday, October 18, 1999 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Burning smell from
car?
Yep, I've got a VR4. How can I ID the transfercase? Is this
something that
is covered under warranty? Should I just go down to the
dealership and
tell them the transfercase might be
cracked?
Thanks
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