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Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #308
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Team3S Digest
Thursday, October 14 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
308
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 18:10:35 -0400
From: "Accelerated Accessories" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need
Burnt ECU
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I need a transistor out of a 1991-1993 TT ECU. The
ECU can be bad as =
long as the ignition drivers are still O.K. Please
call if you can help =
me. Thanks in
advance.
Matt
301-393-8800
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I need
a transistor out of a =
1991-1993 TT=20
ECU. The ECU can be bad
as long as the ignition drivers are still=20
O.K. Please call if
you can help me. Thanks in
=
advance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Matt</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>301-393-8800</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.AcceleratedAccessories.com">www.AcceleratedAccessories=
.com</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 21:02:45 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pictures of Carbon fiber hood and body panel fitments.
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/99bodypanels.htm
New
Page 2
This is a quick fitment before the car goes to the body shop for
paintwork.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:57:49 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
> 3) We also plugged
up (one at time) the hoses that lead to the y-pipe; we
>
also pressure tested the hoses that lead to the intercoolers;
everything
> checked out healthy/fine! No
leaks were found and the clamps were all
> tight!!
Ok, there is
only one hose that goes into the y-pipe :-) Pulling the hoses from
the ellbow
and capping off the nipple will keep the wastegates closed..... if
the WG
actuators spring are still strong enough.
> 5) During my initial
post re: this problem I mentioned that we tested my
> Apex'i
Sequential blow off valve with a Mighty VAC; and that checked out
>
okay/fine as well; but I will try my stock blow off valve
sometime soon.
Yes, it works but I's say it is probably open too early
and causes the air to
blow out even at low boost. As the BOVs work with the
pressure differential
between the y-pipe and the intake plenum the feeder
line may be a problem.
> So everything mechanical checked out
okay!!?? Which leads me to believe, "do
> I have an electrical/ECU
problem????" Any thoughts from you guys?????
No, I doubt
this, although the ECU may be in the emergency program. With this no
boost
will be generated as the ignition and fuel maps are very low values and
do
not create a lot of power. As my car was in this situation, I was not able
to
create anything above atm ! Have you already tried to reset the ECU (I
guess so)
or are you able to get the codes scanned ? Maybe you can borrow a
TMO datalogger
(works on your year !) or maybe you already have one
:-)
> 1) Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032
about 7,000 miles
> old); I'm wondering if my rear plugs are
real fouled up or faulty??? Due
> to how rich (HKS
fuel pump and 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to
> possible worn
valve seals?????? IF I REPLACE with new
NGK's spark plugs
> again; maybe I should NOT re-gap to .032
and leave at stock/factory
> gap??????
No,
problems related to this causes stumble or hesitation but you will always
see
boost !
> 2) Compression test
Good... maybe a lot carbon
deposits on the intake valves that prevents them from
closing.
>
3) replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov. (worth a try)
Yes,
yes !
> 4) Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that
may be the cause of
>
this
problem??????????? ( I highly
> doubt it) But Roger, you mentioned
before if I'm running too rich????
> Can I just unplug the
AFC? since there is no Power OFF.
No, I may misspelled somethign as
again, this would cause a stumble or
hesitation but boost must be there in
any way. You can simply reconnect the MAS
wire you spliced the AFC in but I
doubt the problem is here. What are your A/F
readings. If they are rich and
no sign of dangerous lean even around atm I doubt
that the problem is related
to fuel.
> 5) Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's
defective????? (I'm just reaching for
> ideas!)
Again,
hesitation would be what you'd feel.
> 6) don't know what else
to check???????????????????
I think everything is narrowed down to the
BOV and related to the lines and
hoses around it (simply said: a leak in the
y-pipe) OR the ECU is in the
emergency mode. This mode is activated if too
much knock is counted over a
specific time (repeated). If everything is back
to good again, it heals itselfs
and comes back. Usually a Check Engine light
comes up but I'd not bet on this as
I also runned in this mode without any
light twice (note: before the rebuild...)
I for sure wish to see a datalog so
maybe a DSM owner is in your area to help
you out.
Good luck and let
us know about the stock BPV (easy test)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:05:10 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Mileage
question
When I bought my 92 RT/TT I was getting around 30MPG.
Everything was stock that I was aware of. My tranny died and I replaced
it, my transfer case, and since it was in the shop anyway I put on a K&N
FIPK, Accel Thundersport wires (I didn't know about Magnacores) Timing belt,
water pump, tensioner, and plugs. I wanted NGK's but I needed to have my
car back so I settled for Rapidfire plugs, and I had them gapped to .034.
(cause I am getting ready to up the boost) Problem is that now I get
15MPG. I verified this today. 75 miles 5 gallons. My question
is: do those plugs just suck, or do they suck and the gap need to be readjusted,
or is my problem something else, I run 93 octane so with my 150 mile commute
this is getting expensive quick. Any help??
Ryan
MCSE/ASE
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:24:07 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Mileage question
Guys I know 30Mpg sounds unbelieveable... but I verified
it, however I was also shifting at 2 grand through all the gears, which I was
told was bad on the oil pressure, now I shift around 2700 and the pressure is
fine, but the mileage shouldn't drop by more than 10 just cause of 700
rpm. Okay so now I have a sub question... NGK or NGK
platinum?? Does anyone have an Autozone or an O'Reilly Autoparts store
near that they can actually verify the part numbers??? (I only ask cause
the guys that work around here are idiots!) And also does this mean that I
should get 18-25 with the plugs gapped down?? Or is that stock gap?
MCSE/ASE
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 08:11:34 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mileage question
Ryan...
Well, you must have a very
light foot and keep the speed down to 55 mph to
get 30 mpg. I managed to get
21 mpg once (when my engine was stock). That
was on a 800 mile drive to San
Francisco, with speeds up to 145 mph, and I
did try to keep it in sixth
(painful). I rarely get out of third gear,
fourth is for speeds above 85 mph.
Fifth and sixth have been used less than
ten times in the last two years.
Just a difference in driving habits, but
then, mine is not a commuter car.
Now, to answer your questions:
1. Yes, you should expect your gas mileage
to drop with a tighter gap, but
15 mpg is a huge drop with all other
variables remaining the same.
2. You should have NGK double platinums. The
correct part number is: NGK
PFR6J-11
3. The stock gap is .044", a gap of
.034" should work fine for 15 psi.
Pull one of the front ones, check the
part number, check the gap. Some shops
are VERY sloppy.
BTW...I now
average 11 - 12 mpg, around town, which is 90+% of the driving I
do. I tend
to cruise at 4500 rpm so I can use the compression to slow me
down (saving my
brakes). I love that range from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm, can't
imagine not using
it constantly.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ryan Floyd [mailto:FloydR@dvn.com]
Sent: Thursday,
October 14, 1999 7:24 AM
To: jbasol@Carlson.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mileage question
Guys I know 30Mpg sounds
unbelieveable... but I verified it, however I was
also shifting at 2 grand
through all the gears, which I was told was bad on
the oil pressure, now I
shift around 2700 and the pressure is fine, but the
mileage shouldn't drop by
more than 10 just cause of 700 rpm. Okay so now I
have a sub
question... NGK or NGK platinum?? Does anyone have an Autozone
or
an O'Reilly Autoparts store near that they can actually verify the
part
numbers??? (I only ask cause the guys that work around here are
idiots!)
And also does this mean that I should get 18-25 with the plugs
gapped down??
Or is that stock gap?
MCSE/ASE
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:56:34 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Mileage question
Man Chris you REALLY like to stay in that 'zone' don't
ya ;)p. You must be
like the stop-light king or something in yer area
(not like that's a bad
thing mind ya ;)p.
I used to get around 21 - 24
mpg city, and could get close to 30 on the
high-way (doing speeds of around
80 - 100). But ever since I put on the
underdrive pulley I've been
getting less now (but I think that's due to me
'testing' it out soo often
;)p. I think I'm getting close to 20 now, but
I'll find out after this
current tank of gas.
Some interesting news for you non-turbo fans out
there (like myself :), I've
been posting a few items on www.3000gt.com discussion group regarding
what
I've found can be done to the non-turbo's, and a gentleman was telling
me
about how there's a shop where he lives with a friend of his that is
custom
making a down-pipe for him. I'm asking him to email me after he
gets it and
puts it on to see what the quality of it's like. But if
it's good, this is
good news for us non-turbo peoplez :).
Latufh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:02:00 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine Braking; was: Mileage question
- -----Original Message-----From:
Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
-
---------snip-------
>do. I tend to cruise at 4500 rpm so I can use the
compression to
slow me
>down (saving my brakes). I love that range from
4000 rpm to 6000
rpm, can't
>imagine not using it
constantly.
Just an FYI... I run constantly at around 4000 rpm too,
and always
use engine braking to slow down, but I'm using downshifting
much
less than I used to. I saw a TV show about a year ago, with
some
old racer talking about 'how to get the most out of your car',
or
somesuch... He said that normal engine braking is fine for a
car,
but if you downshift to slow down, you're adding stress on
the
components. The recommendation was that you should be using
the
brakes for 90% of the slowing process, and the lower gear should
be
shifted AS you are reaching the desired speed--
anticipating
acceleration through a corner, for example.
That said, I
admit that I still use (multiple) downshifting when I'm
out 'playing'--
I almost finished off my passenger Darcy's back
once, with whip shifts from
5th thru 2nd trying to follow a faster
AWD car into a diminishing radius
off-ramp at about 100mph-- a car
driven by a guy named Winkley, I
recall! :-) But for most stuff,
now I use just the brakes.
The rationale, the guy said, is that
brakes are LOTS cheaper than
transmissions. Can you spell
G-E-T-R-A-G?
:-)
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 23:22:19 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mileage question
Chris, cruising at 4500 ??? Wow, this is why my
15psi running car now puts
out 28 mpg as on the highway I'm cruising at
2800-3000. On the german
autobahn mileage is getting very bad with speeds
around 150 and more. During
my ecessive testings the last weeks mileage went
down to about 18mpg :-(
>1. Yes, you should expect your gas mileage to
drop with a tighter gap, but
>15 mpg is a huge drop with all other
variables remaining the same.
I fully agree ! Mileage drops a little with
the small gap but not a lot.
Even more, the Splitfires or Rapidfires are not
good on our cars. I got the
Rapidfires for the Camaro and they work very
well. I then got them for the
3000 too and got hesitation a fuel smeeling,
i.e. not well burnt fuel.
Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 23:28:50 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question
>When i bought
my Greddy Type S bov from the dynamic turbo people, i asked
>about that,
they told me that that second port is to use the valve as a
"pop
>off
valve". i have no idea what this means.... please enlighten me =)
A
pop-off valve is a valve that opens at a specific boost to
prevent
overboosting. But I opened the Greddy BOV and checked the internals.
But I
just cannot understand what this port does if it would be connected to
the
boost source. Anyways, it works good with the port open
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:19:24 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mileage question
Roger...
Are you still using the
stock injectors? My driving style remained the same,
but my mileage dropped
by roughly 25% (from 15-16 down to 11-12) when I
changed my injectors and
fuel pump.
BTW...I imagine I'd get better mileage if I was cruising at
any steady speed
(even the wonderful speeds you have on the autobahn) but
most of my driving
is city driving. Start and stop, 0 to 60, 60 to 0, 0 to
100, OR even worse,
0 to 30, 30 to 10, 10 to 20 (commuter traffic). Probably
the worst fuel
economy type of driving
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Thursday,
October 14, 1999 2:22 PM
To: Stealth List
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mileage
question
Chris, cruising at 4500 ??? Wow, this is why my 15psi running
car now puts
out 28 mpg as on the highway I'm cruising at 2800-3000. On the
german
autobahn mileage is getting very bad with speeds around 150 and more.
During
my ecessive testings the last weeks mileage went down to about 18mpg
:-(
<snip>
Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #308
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