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From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #307
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest Wednesday,
October 13 1999 Volume 01 : Number
307
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Oct 1999 15:35:39 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: FAQ
help
Happy belated anniversary to Team 3/S. Man that was a quick
year...
Need a little help from you guys for the FAQ. As I currently have
1000+ FAQ
messages to sort through I need to be able to take my work home. I
can't
access my mailbox from home for security reasons. So what is the best
way to
take all these gobs of messages in MS Outlook to my home computer and
have
them all neatly organized in their respected folders.
Archive?
Yes I used to be a network engineer, and yes I'm being lazy, and
yes I'm
wasting list time. But my time is super full (y2k) and I just want
this one
to be told to me so I can get rev. 1 of this big 'ole FAQ
out.
E-mail me privately of course.
Thanks,
Gavin
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:07:15 -0700
From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cleaning Engine
Gentlemen,
I have put quite a few miles on my 3K and
the engine compartment has got
fairly dirty I am now think of cleaning
it. Members who have cleaned their
3K engines, any words of advice on
what to cover and the best way to do so.
Thank in advance.
Luis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Oct 1999 08:08:34 -0800
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS & Carbon Fiber hood update.
To everyone,
I
also inquired about those carbon fiber hoods from Brian.
Apparently he's
working on a new design that has a "hot air" vent on top
of the engine and a
genuine Viper GTS(?) hood scoop that directs
cool air to the intake.
He
mentioned it'll take around 4-6 weeks before they're made.
Lates
-
-Noble
>
>Carbon Fiber hood:
>
>Installed it
today, it fits very well. I'll have to do some
slight
>alignment and a small modification to the hood latch. (notch the
alignment
>holes) The hood doesn't quite latch fully. I'll have to
move the latch up
>about 1/8 inch. Time involved to fix ~1
hour. This hood is the best
>aftermarket body piece that I've
seen. Brian gets my backing on
his
>product.
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 00:41:30 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
Hi Ken &
all,
check my HomePage for 'Adventures in braking and see for
yourself. Also
go to Brad's HomePage and look at the 'BIG RED
KIT'. Yes, Brad's kit
and the Supra rotors(htsparts@ix.netcom.com) work well with
Paul
Weston's pads(wmsbrakes@aol.com).
What
else do you want???
I'll be going to MidOhio Oct23 & 24 and Carolina
MotorSport Park Oct 30
& 31 so I'll have more miles and info about the
life of pads with the
new system. It's the best I've put on my TT
so far.
The BBQ'ed Porterfield R4 with the stock '94 rotor/caliper
usually got
me thru one day of a driving school. Stock pads would last
about one or
two sessions(about 25-50 miles).
Never did CRACK a
stock rotor. Groved them pretty good though! Did
put some nasty
heat checks in many. Warped many at the track. Never
warped them
on the street.
[snip]
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> >Seems
the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub. Maybe we
>
>should look into finding a good replacement.
You are NEVER going to be
satisfied with stock rotors for Road Racing.
The pads are TOO small and
generate too much heat. The stock rotors
cannot disipate the heat fast
enough.
Don't----- repeat don't do Road Courses with the 91-93 braking
system.
The '94 system isn't much better. Plan to replace pads during
the
driving school--- probably rotors also.
> Brad,
once-upon-a-time I thought that you were investigating rotors for your
>
Porsche Big-Red caliper upgrade kit. Was this a rumor, did you find
anything, did you give up?
Brad is the person who suggested the Supra
rotors. You do have to have
a machining source to turn the inside pilot
dia to fit over our hub.
The inboard smallest dia portion of the sweep will
rub a little on the
hub mount, but will eventually grind enough away for
clearance.
> Also, a couple of weeks ago John Christian reported
that he has been using
> directional rotors from a Supra with Brad's
caliper upgrade and KPF (??) pads
> with very good results on his '93
Stealth TT. "That combination had survived
> 200 track miles and the
pads are only half used--the rotors are only slightly
> groved." I
was hoping John could share a few more specifics but he hasn't
> answered
any of my emails yet. Hey John, are you out there?
Yeh, I'm here
with the "new ISP and new Mailbox" UGGGHHhhhhh the Lynx
and DOS with
ASCII using Telix and the digest version was a lot easier
on me than this new
technology with a gazillian individual messages.
> -
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes and
Supra Rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 01:06:17 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ABS operation
Hi Jim & all,
You'll like the new
brakes. BTW you did also buy the VR4 rims also???
Cause the 93 TT rims
are smaller inside and will NOT clear the Porsche
calipers.
Perhaps you have after market rims.
Never felt ABS on dry pavement with
the stock system. With Brad's
you'll feel the pedal pulse and see
patches of your 245x45x17 on the
pavement. You'll also have brake dust
on your rims. Now I know what
"threshold braking" is.
Be of good
cheer
John
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a
set of Brads " big red Porsche brakes " from
> David Skultetys' and
his recently deceased 93 VR4 [ RIP ].
> If and when UPS gets tired
of shuttling them around the country I will
> install them on my
93TT.
> The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in
our cars and is
> it that my existing system just can't lock up the
wheels, the squealing
> indicates that one wheel is locking or at
least impending lockup
>
> Jim
Berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche
brakes and Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 00:22:24 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS operation
Actually the setup that Dave had will fit on
the 93 wheels. The Supra
rotor is a touch larger and the offset
is not as great as the 94+ rotors.
Jim, If you have any problems or any
questions on the brakes let me know.
I don't have problems setting
the ABS off with my 255 40 17's at 120mph. :)
I finally warped the
rotors though, 14,000 miles of street use. The pads
are about 1/2
worn.
A word to the wise with these brakes, Upgrade to the 94+ two
piston rear
calipers and rotors also. The brake bias to the front makes
for tricky
driving; on hard braking if you need to make any steering wheel
input the
rear end is real light and could come around on
you.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of John T. Christian
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 1999 12:06 AM
To:
Jim Berry
Cc: team 3si
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS operation
Hi Jim
& all,
You'll like the new brakes. BTW you did also buy the VR4
rims also???
Cause the 93 TT rims are smaller inside and will NOT clear the
Porsche
calipers. Perhaps you have after market
rims.
Never felt ABS on dry pavement with the stock system. With
Brad's
you'll feel the pedal pulse and see patches of your 245x45x17 on
the
pavement. You'll also have brake dust on your rims. Now I
know what
"threshold braking" is.
Be of good cheer
John
Jim
Berry wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a set of Brads " big red
Porsche brakes " from
> David Skultetys' and his recently deceased 93 VR4
[ RIP ].
> If and when UPS gets tired of shuttling them around the
country I will
> install them on my 93TT.
> The question is
--- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
> it that
my existing system just can't lock up the wheels, the squealing
>
indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending
lockup
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes
and Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 01:46:37 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts for sale (again)
Parts off a 92 VR4, pearl white unless
otherwise specified: Parts will need
painted.
Hood, and caps
(200)
front & rear bumper 100ea
Lower side panels(rocker covers)
150 ea
headlight assemblies (L&R) 200 ea
Rear Active aero wing
200
Rear wiper & motor 100
RSR lowering springs,
150
Stereo:
92/93 Premium stereo (surround & cassette)
200
Pioneer DEH 435 fm/am/CD 150
Soundstream Ref 500 amp
275
Soundstream Granite 180.6 150
Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 11:47:12 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Hey everyone,
First of all, I would like to thank each and EVERY one of
you who replied
(via privately or to the list) to my post. I truly
appreciate all of your
suggestions!!!
Update: My buddy (Mitsu.
mechanic) and I checked everything out again.
Here's my
status:
1) The wastegates are healthy/fine; they are not stuck
open; tested &
appeared operable.
2) The
turbos seem fine as well; we did a visual on both turbos' compressor
side wheels; they spun freely with no play; we also
started up the car and
gave some throttle to see if the
compressor side of the turbos were
circulating air; and sure
enough these turbos were circulating a PLENTY of
air; which made us
believe that the exhaust/hot side of the turbos are
healthy; Because IF I had a problem with my
exhaust/hot side of the
turbine wheels, we guessed that the compressor
side would also be seized up
or somewhat problematic; that was NOT the
case; they seem to spin freely
therefore seem
fine/healthy. (Removal of Turbos will be my absolute
LAST,
last resort).
3) We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses
that lead to the y-pipe; we
also pressure tested the hoses
that lead to the intercoolers; everything
checked
out healthy/fine! No leaks were found and the
clamps were all
tight!!
4) We even by-passed my GReddy Profec B
boost controller and set my stock
boost system up; we also checked the
stock boost solenoid; So my GReddy
boost controller
checked out okay/fine. Still NO Boost!!!
5) During my initial
post re: this problem I mentioned that we tested my
Apex'i Sequential
blow off valve with a Mighty VAC; and that checked out
okay/fine
as well; but I will try my stock blow off valve sometime
soon.
So everything mechanical checked out okay!!?? Which leads me
to believe, "do
I have an electrical/ECU problem????" Any
thoughts from you guys?????
My next plan of attack:
1)
Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about 7,000 miles
old);
I'm wondering if my rear plugs are real fouled up or faulty???
Due
to how rich (HKS fuel pump and 550cc .injectors) I was
running or due to
possible worn valve
seals?????? IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
again; maybe
I should NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at
stock/factory
gap??????
2) Compression test
3) replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov. (worth a
try)
4) Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be the
cause of
this
problem??????????? ( I highly
doubt it) But Roger, you mentioned
before if I'm running too rich????
Can I just unplug
the AFC? since there is no Power OFF.
5) Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm.
KV85's defective????? (I'm just reaching for
ideas!)
6) don't
know what else to check???????????????????
Any ideas would truly, TRULY
be appreciated!!!
Thanks in advance.
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92
VR4 - Going thru some major withdrawals!!!!! I am
driving a VR4 with NO BOOST!!!!! and some smoke at ocassional
deceleration
and stops (I believe this is due to possible worn valve
seals).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 11:12:18 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
> 3) We also plugged
up (one at time) the hoses that lead to
> the y-pipe; we also pressure
tested the hoses that lead to
> the intercoolers; everything checked out
healthy/fine! No
> leaks were found and the clamps were all
tight!!
Hmm... How about the hoses that attach to the throttle
body? BOV line? Not sure how the Apex'i BOV works, but the stock one
requires pressure in the line to help work against the boost pressure on the
Y-pipe side to hold the valve closed. The valve opens due to pressure
differential, so if it is seeing no pressure on the input from throttle body, it
might pop open.
> 5) During my initial post re: this problem I
mentioned that
> we tested my Apex'i Sequential blow off valve with
a
> Mighty VAC; and that checked out okay/fine as well; but I
> will
try my stock blow off valve sometime soon.
How do you mean, checked with
a Mighty Vac?
> So everything mechanical checked out okay!!??
Which leads me
> to believe, "do I have an electrical/ECU
problem????" Any
> thoughts from you guys?????
The
boost control system is strictly mechanical in nature. The only part that
is electronically controlled is the maximum boost pressure beyond where the
wastegates are triggered mechanically. I seem to recall that the
mechanical resistance in the wastegates is 6 psi, so you should at least see
that. Since you aren't getting that (as far as we know), then something in
the intake tract or exhaust side of the turbos is not working properly. I
doubt a siezed turbo or other turbo malfunctions since you aren't getting any
boost. Even on one turbo you should still see boost, although it will fall
off very quickly.
> My next plan of attack:
>
> 1)
Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about
> 7,000 miles
old); I'm wondering if my rear plugs are real
> fouled up or
faulty??? Due to how rich (HKS fuel pump and
> 550cc .injectors) I
was running or due to possible worn valve
> seals?????? IF I
REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
> again; maybe I should
NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at
> stock/factory
gap??????
I seriously doubt this is the cause. If the car runs at
all, you should still be able to see at least some boost. On my Eclipse I
had a serious problem where it was only injecting fuel into 2 cylinders and I
still got boost. If you suspect worn valve seals, do a compression test to
find out.
> 2) Compression test
:-)
>
3) replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov. (worth a try)
Yes,
do this. Or, just seal the intake pipe where the BOV attaches to verify
that this isn't leaking. Make sure the line from the TB is attached to the
stock BOV.
> 4) Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC
that may be
> the cause of this problem??????????? ( I highly
>
doubt it) But Roger, you mentioned before if I'm running
> too
rich????
Highly unlikely. If the car is burning any mixture at all,
it should still have enough exhaust gasses to spin the turbos. You
mentioned that the turbos seemed to be sucking in plenty of air when you looked
at the compressor side, so I think your turbos are working fine. The air
just isn't making it into the throttle body (or your boost gauge isn't working,
although it sounds like you can certainly feel that there's no
boost).
> 5) Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's
defective????? (I'm just
> reaching for ideas!)
Doesn't
match your symptom list.
> 6) don't know what else to
check???????????????????
I had exactly what you are describing, only my
car still made 6 psi. It was a disconnected stock BOV line. You
could hear the turbos sucking in air (the characteristic turbo whine), but the
BOV was just dumping the air into the pre-turbo side of the intake. If
your BOV vents to atmosphere, then it would be dumping out there and your car
would run very* rich (possibly causing the smoke you are seeing - unburned
fuel).
> Any ideas would truly, TRULY be appreciated!!!
>
Thanks in advance.
I'm placing my bets on the BOV. :-)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 13:59:41 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Gauge placement
I'm intending to have 3 gauges installed in my car, 1
boost, 2 EGTs. I would
like to have them mounted in the valleys between the 3
stock VR-4 gauges.
I've seen a type of pod mount from Japan, ( I believe on
Henry Yam's page),
but that is only for right side driver seat cars.
Anyone know of any such mounts for US cars? Any suggestions on how/where
to
get it custom done?
Anyone else interested for maybe a group
purchase from a custom shop?
Thanks,
Gavin
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Oct 1999 15:36:29 -0400
From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question
When i bought my
Greddy Type S bov from the dynamic turbo people, i asked
about that, they
told me that that second port is to use the valve as a "pop
off valve". i
have no idea what this means.... please enlighten me
=)
Carlos
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S
Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, October 08, 1999 4:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just
simple BOV question
>I got the Greddy Type S BOV (well more a BPV)
today and during the
installation
>I found myself in saying ... "why
the heck does the thing have to vacuum
ports"
>?? I took the thing
apart (yes, I take everything apart to find out what's
>inside, hehe) and
I noticed that the second port goes to the intake side of
the
>valve.
But I just don't know what hose I should connect to the port.
Any
ideas
>??
>
>Thanks,
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Oct 1999 15:03:46 -0700
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
<TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, October 13, 1999 8:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Update: Still NO
BOOST!!!!!!
Hi Al,
I would try to inspect the BOV assembly.
Replace the origional factory BOV
assembly and lines to OEM specs.
Since
you're getting the turbos to spin, the air has to go somewhere right?
It
could be your valve for whatever reason is open and not letting
boost
build
up in the intake plenium.
Good luck
-
-Noble
PS: Worn seals doesn't mean you won't get any
boost.:)
>Hey everyone,
>
> First of
all, I would like to thank each and EVERY one of you who
replied
>(via
privately or to the list) to my post. I truly appreciate all of
your
>suggestions!!!
>
>Update: My buddy (Mitsu.
mechanic) and I checked everything out again.
>Here's my
status:
>
>1) The wastegates are healthy/fine; they are not
stuck open; tested &
>appeared
operable.
>2) The turbos seem fine as well; we did a visual on both
turbos'
compressor
>side wheels; they spun freely
with no play; we also started up the car
and
>gave some
throttle to see if the compressor side of the turbos were
>circulating
air; and sure enough these turbos were circulating a
PLENTY
of
>air; which made us believe
that the exhaust/hot side of the turbos are
>healthy; Because IF I
had a problem with my exhaust/hot side of the
>turbine
wheels, we guessed that the compressor side would also be
seized
up
>or somewhat problematic; that was NOT the
case; they seem to spin
freely
>therefore seem
fine/healthy. (Removal of Turbos will be my
absolute
LAST,
>last resort).
>3) We also plugged up (one
at time) the hoses that lead to the y-pipe; we
>also
pressure tested the hoses that lead to the intercoolers;
everything
>checked out healthy/fine! No
leaks were found and the clamps were all
>tight!!
>4) We even
by-passed my GReddy Profec B boost controller and set my stock
>boost
system up; we also checked the stock boost solenoid; So my GReddy
>boost
controller checked out okay/fine. Still NO Boost!!!
>5) During
my initial post re: this problem I mentioned that we tested
my
>Apex'i Sequential blow off valve with a Mighty VAC; and that
checked out
>okay/fine as well; but I will try my stock
blow off valve sometime soon.
>
>So everything mechanical checked
out okay!!?? Which leads me to believe,
"do
>I have an
electrical/ECU problem????" Any thoughts from you
guys?????
>
>My next plan of attack:
>
>1) Check
all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about 7,000 miles
>old);
I'm wondering if my rear plugs are real fouled up or faulty???
Due
>to how rich (HKS fuel pump and 550cc .injectors) I
was running or due to
>possible worn valve
seals?????? IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark
plugs
>again;
maybe I should NOT re-gap to .032 and leave
at stock/factory
>gap??????
>2)
Compression test
>3) replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov.
(worth a try)
>4) Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that
may be the cause
of
>this
problem??????????? ( I
highly
>doubt it) But Roger, you mentioned
before if I'm running too rich????
>Can I just unplug the
AFC? since there is no Power OFF.
>5) Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm.
KV85's defective????? (I'm just reaching
for
>ideas!)
>6) don't know what else to
check???????????????????
>
>Any ideas would truly, TRULY be
appreciated!!!
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92
VR4 - Going thru some major withdrawals!!!!!
I
am
>driving a VR4 with NO BOOST!!!!! and some smoke at
ocassional
deceleration
>and stops (I believe this is due to possible
worn valve seals).
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #307
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm