--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #306
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest        Tuesday, October 12 1999        Volume 01 : Number 306

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:09:39 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Minnesota 3/S racing (long)

>I learned a few things on Saturday, and I didn't even race. First of all,
>our cars can't brake worth crap in a road racing environment.

Not true. Run race pads and get cooling air to them, and they last just
fine. R4s should last an entire weekend.

And secondly,
>if you are going to race them, bring lots of extra brake parts. I fully
>believe that the Porterfield rotors and pads are the only way to go for your
>braking needs. Everything else, just doesn't hold up.

Hear, hear! That's absolutely correct. Although I hear that Pagids hold
up, too.
For spares, just bring rotors and an extra set of front pads.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:03:46 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

>Seems the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub. Maybe we
>should look into finding a good replacement.

Brad, once-upon-a-time I thought that you were investigating rotors for your
Porsche Big-Red caliper upgrade kit. Was this a rumor, did you find anything,
did you give up?

Also, a couple of weeks ago John Christian reported that he has been using
directional rotors from a Supra with Brad's caliper upgrade and KPF (??) pads
with very good results on his '93 Stealth TT. "That combination had survived
200 track miles and the pads are only half used--the rotors are only slightly
groved." I was hoping John could share a few more specifics but he hasn't
answered any of my emails yet. Hey John, are you out there?
- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 06:47:34 -0800
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

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Oskar,

Which rotor manufacturer were you using? I heard some manufacturers =
simply cross drill the
stock rotors.

Sincerely
Noble
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Oskar <swede@pclink.com>
    To: Team 3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Sunday, October 10, 1999 7:41 PM
    Subject: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
   =20
   =20
    On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd =
International Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping. A few =
of us participated and many came to watch the action. It was the first =
time I took the Stealth out on a road course.
   =20
    The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns. The back =
straight is long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of =
135-140 mph. I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross =
drilled rotors, stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four =
corners. I also brought along my old stock rotors. This turned out to =
be a blessing. Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them!
    =20
    I know that a few people have had problems with the cross drilled =
rotors. Being that these people are die hard road racers and I a novice =
I did not foresee any problems with the cross drilleds. This proved to =
be incorrect. On my second session of the day I entered turn four under =
heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking =
power was severely reduced. I was able to bring the car down to a slow =
pace and then drive off the course. Upon closer inspection I found that =
the right front rotor had totally freed itself from the hub. Not only =
that, the hub had a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way =
around the outer edge. =20
   =20
    After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock =
rotors I again took to the course. At the last session of the day it =
was time for the other front corner to develop problems. Going into =
turn 10 (90 degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from =
about 100 mph. Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front =
temporarily locked up. I eased up on the brakes and coming into the =
banked corner too fast I decided to go low rather than go high and =
potentially go off the course into the tower. I got into a slide and =
soon enough it got the better of me and I spun about 150 degrees and =
came to a stop. I quickly got the car off the course and then checked =
how my wife was doing. She said she was done riding for the day. Just =
as well, it turned out that the surface material was entirely gone on =
the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer side.
   =20
    These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior =
top going out on this last run. Upon inspecting the remains it seems =
that the entire friction material had come loose and just broke away. =
Is this typical?? How far down should one let the pads go when driving =
a road course? =20
   =20
    All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will =
definitely do this again next year. I will come prepared with better =
brakes and probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the =
Stealth's front end. I will also not hesitate to take the time to =
install a set of BRAND new pads before going onto the course. I find it =
alarming that the brakes gave out twice in one day. It makes for some =
uneasy feelings about coming into certain corners.
   =20
    I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM =
shootout autocross. Does anyone have experience with these? Are they =
worth trying?
   =20
    Oskar
    '95 R/T TT
   =20
    E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of the cracked rotor.

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Oskar,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Which rotor manufacturer were you using?  I =
heard some=20
manufacturers simply cross drill the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>stock rotors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sincerely</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Noble</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Oskar <<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:swede@pclink.com">swede@pclink.com</A>><BR><B>To: =
</B>Team=20
    3S <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Sunday, October 10, 1999 7:41 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Team3S: Road =
racing=20
    - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of =
3Si went to=20
    Brainerd International Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot=20
    lapping.  A few of us participated and many came to watch the=20
    action.  It was the first time I took the Stealth out on a road =

    course.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 =
turns. =20
    The back straight is long enough to where I consistently reached =
speeds of=20
    135-140 mph.  I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen =
cross=20
    drilled rotors, stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all =
four=20
    corners.  I also brought along my old stock rotors.  This =
turned=20
    out to be a blessing.  Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I =
bring=20
    them!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know that a few people have had problems with =
the cross=20
    drilled rotors.  Being that these people are die hard road =
racers and I=20
    a novice I did not foresee any problems with the cross =
drilleds.  This=20
    proved to be incorrect.  On my second session of the day I =
entered turn=20
    four under heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then =
the=20
    braking power was severely reduced.  I was able to bring the =
car down=20
    to a slow pace and then drive off the course.  Upon closer =
inspection I=20
    found that the right front rotor had totally freed itself from the=20
    hub.  Not only that, the hub  had a large stress crack =
running=20
    about 1/3 of the way around the outer edge.  </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>After having replaced the failed rotor with one =
of my old=20
    stock rotors I again took to the course.  At the last session =
of the=20
    day it was time for the other front corner to develop =
problems.  Going=20
    into turn 10 (90 degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car =
down=20
    from about 100 mph.  Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the =
right=20
    front temporarily locked up.  I eased up on the brakes and =
coming into=20
    the banked corner too fast I decided to go low rather than go high =
and=20
    potentially go off the course into the tower.  I got into a =
slide and=20
    soon enough it got the better of me and I spun about 150 =
degrees and=20
    came to a stop.  I quickly got the car off the course and =
then=20
    checked how my wife was doing.  She said she was done riding =
for the=20
    day.  Just as well, it turned out that the surface material was =

    entirely gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the =
outer=20
    side.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the =
material=20
    left prior top going out on this last run.  Upon inspecting the =
remains=20
    it seems that the entire friction material had come loose and just =
broke=20
    away.  Is this typical??  How far down should one let the =
pads go=20
    when driving a road course?   </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>All in all I was very happy with this experience =
and I=20
    will definitely do this again next year.  I will come prepared =
with=20
    better brakes and probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated =
into the=20
    Stealth's front end.  I will also not hesitate to take the time =
to=20
    install a set of BRAND new pads before going onto the course.  =
I find=20
    it alarming that the brakes gave out twice in one day.  It =
makes for=20
    some uneasy feelings about coming into certain corners.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for =
placing in the=20
    DSM shootout autocross.  Does anyone have experience with =
these? =20
    Are they worth trying?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 R/T TT</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>E-mail me privately if interested in a pic =
of the=20
    cracked rotor.</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:35:49 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Notice - PLEASE...no HTML

Listmembers...PLEASE...

When someone posts HTML formatted messages to the list, they create problems
for the digest version. When this happens we (the Admins) send a private
message to the sender. Plain Text only!!! HOWEVER, if you see a HTML message
posted, PLEASE turn it back to plain text if you reply to the list.
Otherwise, the HTML format is propagated on each successive post.

Also, as a reminder, please <snip> the majority of the original message when
replying to long posts. We're all able to follow the thread without turning
it into a novel.

THANKS!!!

Looking forward...Chris (Team 3S Admin)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:21:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Semi-Off-Topic: Rearview Mirror Placement and Mechanics

First off, i'm a fairly tall guy and the rear view obstructs my view to
the right unless I duck to look under it. Can anyone recommend a way for
my to position it higher? Is this adviseable?

Secondly, can anyone recommend a good mechanic in the Rochester, NY area?
Or at least somewhere within an hour or so from here? I'm less
knowledgeable about cars than I would like, and I don't like the stories I
hear about how people screw up our cars at chain service centers...

andy
'93 3000gt vr-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:41:56 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: Subject Exhausrt system primer

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A 300ZX site primer on exhaust systems --- worth looking over !!

    Jim Berry
>
>
> http://z31.com/board/archives/view.pl?129
>

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Modified=80F6ABD4B50FBF0179

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:50:05 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Coolant Leak

My car is leaking coolant. I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
on my way with a new radiator cap. It stopped leaking until today. The car
doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?

Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
60,000 miles

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 18:55:10 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: ABS operation

I recently purchased a set of Brads " big red Porsche brakes " from
David Skultetys' and his recently deceased 93 VR4 [ RIP ].
If and when UPS gets tired of shuttling them around the country I will
install them on my 93TT. As a precursor to installing the new system I
was running some braking benchmarks with my G-Tech by doing some
full effort stops. I got about .95 G's which seems about right.
Strange things --- while I'm new to ABS I expected a nice smooth stop
with perhaps some pulsing of the pedal to indicate intervention of the ABS
system --- what I got was some [ not blue smoke lockup ] squealing of
tire(s) and some pulling to the left, I never did get a smooth stop.
The ABS shows no errors, the light comes on and blinks at startup
just like the book says.
The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
it that my existing system just can't lock up the wheels, the squealing
indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending lockup

     Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:01:52 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak

> My car is leaking coolant. I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
> with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
> on my way with a new radiator cap. It stopped leaking until today. The car
> doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
> Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?
>
> ==============================================

Where does the coolant end up on the ground --- it may just be the
overflow bottle being to full and running over when hot.

   Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:21:32 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S: New Website

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I'd just like to take a second of your time to announce
yet another 3000GT website...=20
I know.. I know... there's plenty of them
out there.

This one is still in its infancy, so please
bear with me. I've done a bunch of=20
small biz websites over the years, so
I'm no rookie... but I would like some
feedback from you guys regarding=20
what you'd like to find on a website=20
that might be helpful to you.

I'm open to suggestion, and I've got=20
plenty of storage space... <g>

The URL is....
http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT/

Thanx...
- -Remo

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'd just like to take a second of =
your time to=20
announce</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>yet another =
3000GT=20
website... </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know.. I know... there's plenty of =
them</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>out there.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This one is still in its infancy, so =
please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>bear with me.  I've done a bunch of =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>small biz websites over the years, so</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm no rookie... but I would like some</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>feedback from you guys regarding </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>what you'd like to find on a website </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>that might be helpful to you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm open to suggestion, and I've got </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>plenty of storage space... <g></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The URL is....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT/">http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT=
/</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanx...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>-Remo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:25:03 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS operation

>The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
>it that my existing system just can't lock up the wheels, the squealing
>indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending lockup

With R4 race pads properly warm, it's like throwing out an anchor.
Sounds like you need some new pads.
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:29:20 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak

At 07:50 PM 10/11/99 -0600, CEskelsen wrote:
>My car is leaking coolant. I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
>with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
>on my way with a new radiator cap. It stopped leaking until today. The car
>doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
>Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?
>

Sounds like a classic water pump leak, especially if you are at 60,000
miles. It leaks up inside the timing cover, gets all over the timing belt,
and drips out the bottom. There are no hoses anywhere nearby. A simple
pressure test at the dealer will find it.

If you are still covered by warranty, the dealer is supposed to replace the
timing belt too, because coolant ruins it. That's probably why they tried
to fix it with a lower pressure cap.

If you are not covered by warranty, you're looking at $700.
If you have not yet done your 60,000 mile tuneup, this is the perfect time
to do it. Change the water pump while you are in there. All that stuff is
in the same place -- water pump, timing belt, tensioners, etc. Get it all
at once.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/been there, done that with the water pump.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:52:32 -0700
From: Steve Saeedi <saeedi@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak

At 7:50 PM -0600 10/11/99, CEskelsen wrote:
>My car is leaking coolant. I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
>with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
>on my way with a new radiator cap. It stopped leaking until today. The car
>doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
>Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?

I assume you have ruled out condensation from the air conditioner.
Justa thought.

- - Steve
   '91 Stealth R/T

>
>Thanks,
>Cory Eskelsen
>96 R/T TT
>60,000 miles
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:17:50 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Semi-Off-Topic: Rearview Mirror Placement and Mechanics

i think they are adjustable. there are two pivot points on the mirror, one
at the base of the stalk where it connects to the windshield, and one where
it connects to the mirror. when i tried adjusting mine, the pivot on the
windshield didn't want to move, it had been sitting that way for god knows
how long before i bought my car, it just sorta stuck there. after a little
wiggling around, it came free. i went out just now and got the mirror pretty
high up, touching the headliner almost. unless they changed mirrors in 93,
or have different mirrors on 3ks then stealths, you might wanna examine it.

Omar
92 r/t

> First off, i'm a fairly tall guy and the rear view obstructs my view to
> the right unless I duck to look under it. Can anyone recommend a way for
> my to position it higher? Is this adviseable?
>
> andy
> '93 3000gt vr-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:22:02 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak

Thanks Jim,
    The coolant is definitely overflowing from the tank. My concern stems
from the fact that the dealership says the car is running under acceptable
temps but it is still leaking from the overflow. I just got back from a
drive, thr turbo timer ran the car for one minute and shut off. I watched
and listened to the engine bay. After shut down, I could hear the collant
bubble into the tank and them drop some fluid (approx. 1 to 2 ounces).
Should I give it a couple days or be more concerned?

Cory

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: CEskelsen <cesk@redrock.net>; 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 1999 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak

>
==============================================
>
> Where does the coolant end up on the ground --- it may just be the
> overflow bottle being to full and running over when hot.
>
>    Jim Berry
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 23:30:36 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS & Carbon Fiber hood update.

RPS Clutch:

I received it today, the compound on the disk looks much different than the
defective one.   Rob did manage to send me a new pressure plate, and not a
rebuilt one. As I predicted there was no check enclosed. I have not
decided if I want to install a RPS clutch in my car or not.

Anyone have a TC Clutch holding up ?

Carbon Fiber hood:

Installed it today, it fits very well.   I'll have to do some slight
alignment and a small modification to the hood latch. (notch the alignment
holes) The hood doesn't quite latch fully. I'll have to move the latch up
about 1/8 inch.   Time involved to fix ~1 hour. This hood is the best
aftermarket body piece that I've seen.   Brian gets my backing on his
product.

Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 01:28:24 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: B&M Ignition Upgrade

This is good testing, info and news. I had heard of the B&M deal some time
back and wondered whether to think about it or the MSD or whatever. If
this works, that is great. I have a couple reports of MSD DIS units going
bad, anecdotal only but troubling. Sure do appreciate your thorough testing,
Roger, because the results are therefore believable!

Jack Tertadian

"R.G." wrote: [snips]

> I got "New Volt" ignition amp from B&M free to
> test on my car. aim to eliminate narrow gap
> plugs under high boost, to add power to burn additional fuel.
> Unfortunately, even with gap 0.032, hesitation @ 5000+ is
> still noticeable as well as measurable=showed on dyno slip.
> New Volt simply was connected into harness going to coils;
> increases voltage from 12 to 20V; current
> can reach 2 Amps per fire compared to 0.05 Amps normally.
> The results were ... zero. I felt hesitation was lower but second run
> without New Volt gave same result and therefore New Volt did nothing.
> The increased voltage/current didn't increase energy in coils.
> During many conversations with development manager at B&M I
> mentioned the power transistors that switch/activate
> coils may limit current that can be drawn by the coils. B&M came
> up with same assumption and decided to check their design. I have
> drawn schematic that provides very simple bolt-on solution to
> existing ignition system but I forgot anything about power
> transistors :-( B&M and I are working on that. Final solution may
> consists of universal B&M New Volt and additional 3S specific box.
> We are developing easy
> more powerful ignition for our cars. This does nothing to
> timing but should increase power to plugs. Result will be
> running plugs 0.045 with enough energy. Increasing boost/fuel results in higher
> resistance in plug gap.
> B&M New Volt increased voltage but stock system
> is not able to benefit so no gain was found. I hope to test solution in
> the next weeks.
> Roger 93 3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 11:24:36 EDT
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS & Carbon

In a message dated 10/12/99 3:23:45 PM !!!First Boot!!!, LotoBoost writes:

<< In a message dated 10/12/99 4:28:51 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
bbedell@austin.rr.com writes:

< RPS Clutch:

I received it today, the compound on the disk looks much different than the
defective one.   Rob did manage to send me a new pressure plate, and not a
rebuilt one. As I predicted there was no check enclosed. I have not
decided if I want to install a RPS clutch in my car or not.

Anyone have a TC Clutch holding up ? >>

Do you have the dual compound disk or full carbon? Most of the full carbon
disks I've installed have gone south except for the one on Joe Canella's VR4
(around 600hp). Which makes me wonder if the break-in plays a big factor in
the life of the Carbon?

I've only installed one of the new dual compound disks in a Stealth/VR4 so
not sure how it will end up, but have had some experience with the dual
compound on the Supra Twin Turbo. So far they tend to chatter alot less (at
least three out of four so far) and have held for three weeks so far on
500-600rwhp Supras. The Dual Compound on the Stealth also chatters alot less
(none) and has a hair less pedal effort.

I think RPS is definatly headed in the right direction.. I'll post more
after the Stealth (has about 525hp) gets to the track.

Mike
1994 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.4 Best mph: 122
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 07:17:16 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Website

> Gil Gomes wrote:
>
> I'm no rookie... but I would like some
> feedback from you guys regarding
> what you'd like to find on a website
> that might be helpful to you.

I'd like to see how I can get my car in the 10s for $1000 or less while
maintaining 100% reliability and improved gas mileage. Thanx. ;-)

-Jim

P.S.- Please take your mailer out of HTML mode when posting to the
list. Thanx!!

- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #306
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