--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #305
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest Monday, October 11 1999 Volume 01 : Number 305

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:30:45 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Greddy Turbo exhaust manifold

Trust power in Japan has them listed !!

http://www.trust-power.com/search/mitsubishi/gto.html

But price is about $2000 :((

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 12:19:36 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question

Hey Todd,

Myself and Matt Jannusch are the ones with the black panther batteries. We
used them so we would have room to mount our water injection tanks. I have
some pictures at:

http://mn3s.org/wi3.jpg
http://mn3s.org/wi4.jpg
http://mn3s.org/wi5.jpg

I believe Jegs carries both Odessey and Black Panther. I'm sure you'll get
a better price at Jegs, then where I got mine from. It is a nice battery
and it is holding up well. I might even stick in my Eclipse this winter. A
Minnesota winter would be the true test. ;)

I would not worry about the performance of the Black Panther batteries.
Optima makes a new smaller battery too. You can't go wrong with either one.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

>From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
>To: stealth <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S: black panter battery question
>Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 11:23:02 -0700
>
>A while back someone said they bought a black panther battery. I was
>wondering if that person was still on the list. I am looking for
>feedback on the performance of the battery. How's it holding up, do you
>ever have problems starting the car, does it hold a charge if left to
>sit for a couple weeks.... stuff like that.
>
>I need a new battery, and was thinking of getting one because of the
>size. Jegs carries them now under the name "Odyssey" (page 92 in the new
>catalog). 150 for the small one and 200 for the big one. I would
>appreciate any real world feedback I can get before buying that
>expensive of a battery.
>
>Thanks
>Todd
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 21:29:57 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV

"R.G." wrote:
>
> I just installed a Greddy Type S BOV. Together with the 1st gen DSM flange the
> thing is a simply replacement for the stock valve and also vents back to the
> intake. The sound is very noticeable (not annoying) with an aftermarket filter
> installed. The problematic adjusting is no issue as it does vent back and the
> stumble noticed with other BOV that vents to the atmosphere is not there. I can
> recommend it as it works perfect :)

No stumble? I have yet to eliminate the stumble caused by the Blitz,
even with the adjustment screw all the way in (but I'll take the stumble
over the hooting resonance it eliminated, thank you very much!). Not
sure why it happens, as the BOV should be completely closed when the
stumble occurs (1 second after getting off the throttle)...

-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 15:30:07 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: off-topic: Fiero

Sorry about the off-topic, but youse guys are the only ones who might have
an answer.

My son and I are going to Elkhart Lake this weekend for a driver's school
and hot lapping.

He has an 88 Fiero V6 automatic with 100,000 well-maintained miles on it,
uprated springs, and Comp T/A tires. It runs pretty good, although it tends
to use a little oil. He ran about 25 hot laps at the Marshalltown go-kart
track (0.70 mile, about a 55 mph average lap) two weeks ago with no problems.

He'll be running 20-minute sessions with top speeds of 125+, braking hard
at the end of three 1-mile straights.
We put Porterfield R4 pads on the front with stock rotors.

Question: Is there ANYTHING about a Fiero we should be watching for?

Will the brakes hold up?
Will the engine overheat?
Will the automatic trans hold up?
Does it loop if you lift?
Anything else about which we should be aware?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 00:34:05 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV

> No stumble? I have yet to eliminate the stumble caused by the Blitz,
> even with the adjustment screw all the way in (but I'll take the stumble
> over the hooting resonance it eliminated, thank you very much!).

Also the "goose" has left my engine bay :) But the big difference is still
that the Greddy vents back to the intake while, AFAIK, your setup uses the
stock BPV as well as the Blitz BOV in parallel venting to the atmosphere.

> Not sure why it happens, as the BOV should be completely closed when the
> stumble occurs (1 second after getting off the throttle)...

The hard spring closes the BOV very quick, maybe too quick, what maybe
causes the stock BPV to open again. Also pressure may be relieved but the
turbos still are spooling and when the valve is closed again they still pump
up some boost. A good idea would be to hook up the boost gauge temporarily
to the y-pipe outlet to see how boost acts.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:37:54 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd International =
Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping. A few of us =
participated and many came to watch the action. It was the first time I =
took the Stealth out on a road course.

The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns. The back straight is =
long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of 135-140 mph. I =
felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled rotors, =
stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners. I also =
brought along my old stock rotors. This turned out to be a blessing. =
Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them!

I know that a few people have had problems with the cross drilled =
rotors. Being that these people are die hard road racers and I a novice =
I did not foresee any problems with the cross drilleds. This proved to =
be incorrect. On my second session of the day I entered turn four under =
heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking =
power was severely reduced. I was able to bring the car down to a slow =
pace and then drive off the course. Upon closer inspection I found that =
the right front rotor had totally freed itself from the hub. Not only =
that, the hub had a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way =
around the outer edge. =20

After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I =
again took to the course. At the last session of the day it was time =
for the other front corner to develop problems. Going into turn 10 (90 =
degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from about 100 =
mph. Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front temporarily =
locked up. I eased up on the brakes and coming into the banked corner =
too fast I decided to go low rather than go high and potentially go off =
the course into the tower. I got into a slide and soon enough it got =
the better of me and I spun about 150 degrees and came to a stop. I =
quickly got the car off the course and then checked how my wife was =
doing. She said she was done riding for the day. Just as well, it =
turned out that the surface material was entirely gone on the left inner =
side, and almost all gone on the outer side.

These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top =
going out on this last run. Upon inspecting the remains it seems that =
the entire friction material had come loose and just broke away. Is =
this typical?? How far down should one let the pads go when driving a =
road course? =20

All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will definitely =
do this again next year. I will come prepared with better brakes and =
probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the Stealth's =
front end. I will also not hesitate to take the time to install a set =
of BRAND new pads before going onto the course. I find it alarming that =
the brakes gave out twice in one day. It makes for some uneasy feelings =
about coming into certain corners.

I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM shootout =
autocross. Does anyone have experience with these? Are they worth =
trying?

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of the cracked rotor.

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went =
to Brainerd=20
International Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping.  =
A few of=20
us participated and many came to watch the action.  It was the =
first time I=20
took the Stealth out on a road course.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 =
turns.  The=20
back straight is long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of =
135-140=20
mph.  I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled =
rotors,=20
stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.  I =
also=20
brought along my old stock rotors.  This turned out to be a =
blessing. =20
Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I know that a few people have had problems with the =
cross=20
drilled rotors.  Being that these people are die hard road racers =
and I a=20
novice I did not foresee any problems with the cross drilleds.  =
This proved=20
to be incorrect.  On my second session of the day I entered turn =
four under=20
heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking =
power was=20
severely reduced.  I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace =
and then=20
drive off the course.  Upon closer inspection I found that the =
right front=20
rotor had totally freed itself from the hub.  Not only that, the =
hub =20
had a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer=20
edge.  </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>After having replaced the failed rotor with one of =
my old=20
stock rotors I again took to the course.  At the last session of =
the day it=20
was time for the other front corner to develop problems.  Going =
into turn=20
10 (90 degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from =
about 100=20
mph.  Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front =
temporarily=20
locked up.  I eased up on the brakes and coming into the banked =
corner too=20
fast I decided to go low rather than go high and potentially go off the =
course=20
into the tower.  I got into a slide and soon enough it got the =
better of me=20
and I spun about 150 degrees and came to a stop.  I quickly =
got the=20
car off the course and then checked how my wife was doing.  =
She said=20
she was done riding for the day.  Just as well, it turned out that =
the=20
surface material was entirely gone on the left inner side, and almost =
all gone=20
on the outer side.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the =
material left=20
prior top going out on this last run.  Upon inspecting the remains =
it seems=20
that the entire friction material had come loose and just broke =
away.  Is=20
this typical??  How far down should one let the pads go when =
driving a road=20
course?   </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>All in all I was very happy with this experience and =
I will=20
definitely do this again next year.  I will come prepared with =
better=20
brakes and probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the =
Stealth's=20
front end.  I will also not hesitate to take the time to install a =
set of=20
BRAND new pads before going onto the course.  I find it alarming =
that the=20
brakes gave out twice in one day.  It makes for some uneasy =
feelings about=20
coming into certain corners.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in =
the DSM=20
shootout autocross.  Does anyone have experience with these?  =
Are they=20
worth trying?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Oskar</DIV>
<DIV>'95 R/T TT</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of =
the cracked=20
rotor.</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00EA_01BF1370.17D28240--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:49:09 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_051E_01BF1371.A9D05C20
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Seems the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub. Maybe we should
look into finding a good replacement.

Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Oskar
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 10:38 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd International
Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping. A few of us
participated and many came to watch the action. It was the first time I
took the Stealth out on a road course.

The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns. The back straight is
long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of 135-140 mph. I felt
that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled rotors, stainless brake
lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners. I also brought along my
old stock rotors. This turned out to be a blessing. Thanks Curt Gendron
for insisting that I bring them!

I know that a few people have had problems with the cross drilled rotors.
Being that these people are die hard road racers and I a novice I did not
foresee any problems with the cross drilleds. This proved to be incorrect.
On my second session of the day I entered turn four under heavy braking when
I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking power was severely reduced.
I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace and then drive off the
course. Upon closer inspection I found that the right front rotor had
totally freed itself from the hub. Not only that, the hub had a large
stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer edge.

After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I
again took to the course. At the last session of the day it was time for
the other front corner to develop problems. Going into turn 10 (90 degree
right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from about 100 mph.
Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front temporarily locked
up. I eased up on the brakes and coming into the banked corner too fast I
decided to go low rather than go high and potentially go off the course into
the tower. I got into a slide and soon enough it got the better of me and I
spun about 150 degrees and came to a stop. I quickly got the car off the
course and then checked how my wife was doing. She said she was done riding
for the day. Just as well, it turned out that the surface material was
entirely gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer side.

These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top
going out on this last run. Upon inspecting the remains it seems that the
entire friction material had come loose and just broke away. Is this
typical?? How far down should one let the pads go when driving a road
course?

All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will definitely do
this again next year. I will come prepared with better brakes and probably
Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the Stealth's front end. I
will also not hesitate to take the time to install a set of BRAND new pads
before going onto the course. I find it alarming that the brakes gave out
twice in one day. It makes for some uneasy feelings about coming into
certain corners.

I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM shootout
autocross. Does anyone have experience with these? Are they worth trying?

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of the cracked rotor.

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<div class=3DSection1>

Se=
ems the
94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub.  Maybe we should look into finding a good =
replacement.<o:p></o:p>

<!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

<!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

Brad<o:p></o:p></=
p>

Check out my home page:  =
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/<o:p></o:p></=
p>

 E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682<o:p></o:p></=
p>

<=
span
class=3DEmailStyle15><![if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

-----Original
Message----- 
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com =
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Oskar 
Sent: Sunday, October 10, =
1999
10:38 PM 
To: Team 3S 
Subject: Team3S: Road =
racing -
Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

<![if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

On =
Saturday
the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd International Raceway =
(BIR)
for a drivers school and hot lapping.  A few of us participated and =
many
came to watch the action.  It was the first time I took the Stealth =
out on
a road course.<o:p></o:p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

The track is
almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns.  The back straight is long =
enough to
where I consistently reached speeds of 135-140 mph.  I felt that I =
came
well prepared with Stillen cross drilled rotors, stainless brake lines =
and
Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.  I also brought along my old =
stock
rotors.  This turned out to be a blessing.  Thanks Curt =
Gendron for
insisting that I bring them!<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

I =
know that a
few people have had problems with the cross drilled rotors.  Being =
that
these people are die hard road racers and I a novice I did not foresee =
any
problems with the cross drilleds.  This proved to be =
incorrect.  On
my second session of the day I entered turn four under heavy braking =
when I
felt a very distinct snap and then the braking power was severely
reduced.  I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace and then =
drive
off the course.  Upon closer inspection I found that the right =
front rotor
had totally freed itself from the hub.  Not only that, the =
hub  had a
large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer =
edge.  <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

After having
replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I again took =
to the
course.  At the last session of the day it was time for the other =
front
corner to develop problems.  Going into turn 10 (90 degree right) I =
got on
the brakes to bring the car down from about 100 mph.  Suddenly the =
brakes
gave away and then the right front temporarily locked up.  I eased =
up on
the brakes and coming into the banked corner too fast I decided to go =
low rather
than go high and potentially go off the course into the tower.  I =
got into
a slide and soon enough it got the better of me and I spun =
about 150
degrees and came to a stop.  I quickly got the car off =
the course and
then checked how my wife was doing.  She said she was done riding =
for the
day.  Just as well, it turned out that the surface material was =
entirely
gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer =
side.<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

These pads
appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top going out =
on this
last run.  Upon inspecting the remains it seems that the entire =
friction
material had come loose and just broke away.  Is this =
typical??  How
far down should one let the pads go when driving a road =
course?   <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

All in all I
was very happy with this experience and I will definitely do this again =
next
year.  I will come prepared with better brakes and probably =
Merrit's brake
duct design incorporated into the Stealth's front end.  I will also =
not
hesitate to take the time to install a set of BRAND new pads before =
going onto
the course.  I find it alarming that the brakes gave out twice in =
one
day.  It makes for some uneasy feelings about coming into certain =
corners.<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

I =
got a gift
cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM shootout =
autocross.  Does
anyone have experience with these?  Are they worth =
trying?<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

Oskar<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

'95 R/T TT<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p>

E-mail me
privately if interested in a pic of the cracked =
rotor.<o:p></o:p>

</div>

</body>

</html>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 23:09:46 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

<excerpt>Oskar: I feel yor pain.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

>>>>

<excerpt>> I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled
rotors, stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.
I also brought along my old stock rotors. This turned out to be a
blessing. Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them! <<snip>
On my second session of the day I entered turn four under heavy braking
when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking power was severely
reduced. I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace and then drive
off the course. Upon closer inspection I found that the right front
rotor had totally freed itself from the hub. Not only that, the hub had
a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer edge.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

I know EXACTLY how you feel. You broke a rotor and lost the brakes.

There is a rumor that Stillen and PowerSlot and lord knows how many
others buy their rotors from the same furshlugginer supplier, and these
rotors break like crazy. I've broken two, now Oskar has broken one. How
many more will break before one of us gets hurt big time out there?

My only recommendation: Stick to stock rotors or Porterfields (stock
rotors that are cryogenically treated). They don't break.

<excerpt>

>After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I
again took to the course. At the last session of the day it was time for
the other front corner to develop problems. Going into turn 10 (90
degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from about 100
mph. Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front temporarily
locked up. <<snip> it turned out that the surface material was entirely
gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer side. These
pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top going
out on this last run. Upon inspecting the remains it seems that the
entire friction material had come loose and just broke away.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

Your problem is in using a street pad for road racing. My recommendation
is to install Porterfield R4 pads prior to an event and take them out
afterward. Your Metal Matrix pads are street pads. That's why they failed
you.

>>>>

<excerpt>

>All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will definitely
do this again next year. I will come prepared with better brakes and
probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the Stealth's front
end. I will also not hesitate to take the time to install a set of BRAND
new pads before going onto the course.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

There ya go.

>>>>

<excerpt> I find it alarming that the brakes gave out twice in one day.
It makes for some uneasy feelings about coming into certain corners.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

Yep. Scary, ain't it.

I'm doing Road America this weekend, so I'll have a report on how well my
brakes hold up. I'm running Porterfield rotors and R4 pads (pads on all
four wheels this time), air ducts, and water injection.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!

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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 23:57:32 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Minnesota 3/S racing (long)

I'd like to give some more details about Saturday's adventure up at Brainerd
International Raceway. Now that you've heard Oskar's story, I'm sure your
wanting more. ;)

Myself and four other Minnesota 3/S members left the Twin Cities for
Brainerd around 8am. (John, Francis, Lawrence, and Shawn) We arrived in
Brainerd around 10am. When we got there we saw Oskar, Mark, Pete, and Ron
all running laps. (all 3/S owners) This was a road racing, and driving
school. The event was put on by the local Nissan Z club, but for some
reason, there was more Mitsubishis there then Nissans.

After the first session, all the 3/Ses seemed to have no problems with their
brakes. Up to that point, the only problem was people getting stung by
bees.

During the second session, of four, is when Oskar broke the Stillen rotor in
two. We'll have scanned pics in a week or two. Luckily, he brought his old
stock rotors. Mark, with his 91 R/T TT, was getting ready to run his third
session, when he noticed something wrong with his right front rotor. The
pad was way past the wear indicator. So he was forced to go perform a brake
pad change over to his new Porterfield R4S pads. Too bad he missed the
third session.

Oskar and Mark both ran in the forth and final session of the day, and they
didn't 'seem' to have any problems. Mark, Oskar, John and myself were
planning on making a trip to Perkins afterwards. Just after we left the
track, Oskar pulled over. He felt that the left front caliper was seized
against the rotor. He limped to Perkins restaurant, and pulled off the
caliper. I remember seeing two chunks, of what used to be metal matrix
pads, fall to the ground. It was like the material melted and reformed into
chunks. That is what was causing Oskar to feel like the caliper was
pressing against the rotor.

At this point, Mark and John drove back to the track to find Mark's old pads
that he threw away. (Mark, you should of listen to me. hehe) Luckily, they
found them, brought them back, and Oskar put them on the left front caliper.

After eating at Perkins, the four of us drove back, through the night, to
the Twin Cities. (a 2 hour drive) Ironiclly enough, we saw a blue 1g
Stealth TT being towed away, on the interstate. The Stealth was at the
track earlier in the day. He wasn't a Minn 3/Ser though.

I learned a few things on Saturday, and I didn't even race. First of all,
our cars can't brake worth crap in a road racing environment. And secondly,
if you are going to race them, bring lots of extra brake parts. I fully
believe that the Porterfield rotors and pads are the only way to go for your
braking needs. Everything else, just doesn't hold up.

I want to thank all the Minnesota 3/S members that participated in the event
on Saturday. It was truly a team effort to get our cars home.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

p.s. A web page will be up soon to document this memorable day.

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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:41:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

Hi Oskar,

I guess you weren't here when we had the long
'braking' disscusion. Well, the conclusion was -
Stillen rotors and pads won't hold up in open track
events. Especially the pads, the semi-metallic
compound is only good for street cruising.

I and some other owners have good luck with
Porterfield rotors and R4 (carbon kevlar) race pads.
These pads can withstand much higher temp (never fad
in my experience.) Also make sure you have some racing
brake fluids like Motul 600 to avoid brake failure.

By the way, being a novice doesn't mean u won't use
the brakes as much. It's acutally the opposite.. the
more experience you have, you will learn how conserve
and make better use of ur brakes.

Good luck and have fun!! =)

George
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

=====

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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:10:31 -0500
From: Matt A Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: black panther battery question

> A while back someone said they bought a black panther battery. I was
> wondering if that person was still on the list. I am looking for
> feedback on the performance of the battery. How's it holding
> up, do you ever have problems starting the car, does it hold a
> charge if left to sit for a couple weeks.... stuff like that.

Not sure if I bought the first one, but I got mine about 3 months ago. So far it has worked flawlessly. It hasn't become anywhere near drained yet, even with putting the convertible top up and down several times in a row without starting the car where the old battery would die after 2-3 times. I haven't had the car sitting for more than a couple days, so I can't speak to whether or not it holds its charge long-term. I would guess it would hold charge at least as well as a lead-acid battery.

Best thing about it, is if you accidentally discharge it all the way down - it doesn't affect it at all and you can just recharge it all the way back up in about an hour. Jumping it is safer also, since it can't explode since there is no expanding gasses inside the case. If it did split open, at least it won't spray acid in your face.

If I recall correctly, the battery saved me 14 pounds over the stock battery, and gave me enough room to mount the entire Spearco water injection tank, pump, and boost switch on the battery tray in a vertical position (the preferred position).

> I need a new battery, and was thinking of getting one because of the
> size. Jegs carries them now under the name "Odyssey" (page 92
> in the new
> catalog). 150 for the small one and 200 for the big one. I would
> appreciate any real world feedback I can get before buying that
> expensive of a battery.

Can't complain about mine. Does exactly what it should.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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