--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #304
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Sunday, October 10 1999         Volume 01 : Number 304




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 10:13:40 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question

I recently installed a red-top Optima battery. It is also smaller than the
original one and it works very well. With two small blocks of wood I was
able to use the same brackets to hold it in place. I'm very happy with it
and the new series is even stronger but the same price as before (850 old,
1050 new)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 10:20:49 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Question..

I for myself would say that TD06 only stands for the compressor wheel
housing type and doesn't say what is on the turbine side. But I may be
wrong. For the comrpessor wheel housing, it is important the front turbo has
an angeled outlet like the stock TD04 housing. Otherwise it may touch the
motor mount in the front or anything else must be done differently.

For the exhaust manifold, all hybrid turbos with the same turbine housing
fit our cars and are direct bolt ons. I know of others that need other oil
return lines due to their design. An adapter cannot be made as space is a
luxury we just don't have :(

Hope this helps a little,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

> Will TDO6 turbos bolt on to our cars?  If its not a direct bolt on would
it
> be possible for an adapter to be fabricated to mate it?

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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 12:10:02 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Octane Boost

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 dollars a pop?  I have been using =
the 104+ brand and tried the NOS brand with my fill-up last night.  I =
apologize for "Off-Topic" chatter, but didn't want 300 responses from =
the starnet list.

Thanks, Cory
96 R/T TT

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF124F.36E72EA0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 =
dollars a=20
pop?&nbsp; I have been using the 104+ brand and tried the NOS brand with =
my=20
fill-up last night.&nbsp; I apologize for "Off-Topic" chatter, but =
didn't want=20
300 responses from the starnet list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks, Cory</DIV>
<DIV>96 R/T TT</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF124F.36E72EA0--

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 21:36:06 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Octane Boost

I used some of the boosters Jim brougth me down during my test runs. But I
haven't seen any lowering in knock. If a brand claims to increase 2 points
people on the DSM list found out that this probably means 0.x octane points.
Therefore if you run with 93 octane and use a booster that increases 7
points you are getting only 93.7 octane.

In my point of view it is ok for the trakc if no high octane fuel is
available but this stuff has so many other things in it that I'd say not
using over the long term.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

PS: Please switch off HTML as the mail server doesn't like the format.
Thanks.

> Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 dollars a pop?  I have been using the
104+ brand
> and tried the NOS brand with my fill-up last night.  I apologize for
"Off-Topic" chatter, but
> didn't want 300 responses from the starnet list.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 13:28:26 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Octane Boost

- -----Original Message-----From: CEskelsen <cesk@redrock.net>
Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 dollars a pop?  I have been
using the 104+ brand and tried the NOS brand with my fill-up last
night.  I apologize for "Off-Topic" chatter, but didn't want 300
responses from the starnet list.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


The 'octane boost' products simply make your current gas 'fire' at a
later point in the combustion cycle.  AFAIK, there are 'good' ways
and 'bad' ways to do this, but I don't know enough to venture what
they are.  I've just been told (some time ago) to stay away from
them in high performance engines...  But there could be newer
products that are harmless...

Best,

Forrest



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 14:44:31 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question

> I recently installed a red-top Optima battery. It is also smaller than the
> original one and it works very well. With two small blocks of wood I was
> able to use the same brackets to hold it in place. I'm very happy with it
> and the new series is even stronger but the same price as before (850 old,
> 1050 new)
===============================================

850 vs. 1050 What ????? ---- I sure as hell hope your talking Russian
Rubles or Zambia Kwachas'.


    Jim berry

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 00:14:49 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question

> 850 vs. 1050 What ????? ---- I sure as hell hope your talking Russian
> Rubles or Zambia Kwachas'.

Part No. of course !

It's probably cheaper than the panter and it is spiral cell gel battery. The
old style was able to deliver 850 Amps for a short time !

// Roger


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 01:13:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Ignition testing update

Some weeks ago I got a "New Volt" ignition amplifier from B&M for free to
test it on my car. The aim was/is to eliminate the need of regapping the
plugs under high boost. Even more it should add more power to the existing
system to burn the additional fuel we give.

Unfortunately, even with a gap of 0.032 the hesitation around 5000 and up is
still noticeable as well as measurable and is showed on the dyno slip. The
New Volt simply was connected into the harness going to the coils and
increases the voltage from 12 to 20V. Even more, the current sent through
the coils can reach 2 Amps per fire compared to about 0.05 Amps normally.

The results were ... zero. I felt the hesitation was lower but a second run
without the box gave the same result and therefore the box did nothing.
Therefore the increased voltage and current (equals power in watt) didn't
increased the energy in the coils.

At the beginning, Magnecor was blamed for the comparable high resistance of
the wires. But Magnecore assured me that they can deliver everything to the
plug what the B&M is able to deliver but who know for sure ! As I do not
have set of any other manufacturer handy I may believe them. Later the fuel
system was blamed to be the problem as the power always came back after a
few hundered rpm and an ignition problem may stay. I was told this is a fuel
starvation but changing the amount of fuel with the AFC did not changed
anything. Then I was told the fuel pump may loose pressure but I already
installed a larger Denso pump and if this woudl be a problem, I'm sure it
will even raise at higher rpm.

During the many conversations with the development manager at B&M I
mentioned that I feel the power transistors that switch and activate the
coils may limit the current that can be drawn by the coils. Finally B&M came
up with the same assumption and decided to check their design. I then have
drawn a schematic diagram that provides a very simply bolt-on solution to
the existing ignition system but I've just forgot anything about power
transistors :-( But B&M and I are working on that. The final solution may
consists of the universal B&M New Volt and a small additional 3S specific
box that is able to deliver the necessary power. Maybe only this little box
will solve many problems and cost would be very little. Often the easiest
solution are the best one ... but we'll see.

During the daily driving tests I started to notice the tach was bouncing
with the NV installed. This means that running on the autobahn at 3000 the
tach immediatly jumped to 3200 and back to 3000. Then everything was ok for
some monites and then within several seconds it jumped between 2800, 3000
and 3200. Also it never happend above 3500. Looking at the schematic
diagrams I noticed that there is another el. element together with the power
transistors in the same plug (located below the coil pack). It seems that
increasing the voltage saturates this gate and results in the jumping tach
as the output signal was out of its range. Disconnecting the NV helped. B&M
is now installign a better filter on the outlet as they think the switching
frequency of the voltage regulator may also be responsible for the problem.

Ok, I may summarize everything: We are in the middle of developing an easy
but more powerful ignition for our cars. This does not anything to the
timing but it should increase the power to the plugs. The result will be the
benefit of running plugs gapped to 0.045 with enough energy for a fast
travel of the spark. Increasing bosot and fuel results in a higher
electrical resistance in the plug gap and therefore spark travels slower.
This is why we have to regap them on higher boost, but the drawback is a
weaker idle, lower mileage and .. less power out of the fuel because less
fuel can be burnt. The B&M New Volt increased voltage but the stock system
is not able to benefit of it so no gain was found. I t even added a light
problem but a solution is not far. I hope to be able to test a solution in
the next weeks.

Anyone who has good experience in fast switching power transistors please
speak up ;-)

More soon...
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 20:45:03 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition testing update

This is not surprising.  In the November 1999 issue of Sport Compact Car
magazine, Road Race Engineering in California tested a New Volt on an Eagle
Talon, which has a very similar ignition to our own.  They didn't publish
any dyno charts, but said that it picked up a little power (on the dyno) in
the mid RPM range but lost power in the high range.  They attributed it to a
faulty unit or incompatibility with the Eclipse's ignition system and will
try again in the future.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


- ----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 1999 6:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ignition testing update


> The results were ... zero. I felt the hesitation was lower but a second
run
> without the box gave the same result and therefore the box did nothing.
> Therefore the increased voltage and current (equals power in watt) didn't
> increased the energy in the coils.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 00:07:04 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: BOV

Please recommend an aftermarket BOV.  I'm considering a Blitz.

Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 01:34:00 -0500
From: Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponges Cleaning Report

Gentlemen:

All this talk of how poorly the HKS filters performed on the test page
had me wondering.  I've even asked a few colleagues what they felt about
switching from the HKS Dual Mega Flow and obtaining a paper filter FIPK.
Here's my findings....

I installed the HKS in February, on Sunday whence the temperature stayed
above 50 for an hour (not often here in sunny, warm, subtropical
Wisconsin).  I opted for the purple filters, strictly because I didn't
like the green.  ;-)

I was figuring on replacing them in one year's time, but again, all the
talk, I found myself taking them apart yesterday morning.  I was amazed
to find NOTHING on the inner workings of the unit.  I even tried a clean
rag, paper towel, and facial tissue.  NADA.

I washed the sponges with Dawn (no, not her, the dishwahsing liquid), and
God blessed us with 75 and sunny day here.  They were dry real fast.  I
let them lay out all afternoon, to be sure, as a true sun worshipper
shall.

They went back in fine, and to my surprise, I felt much of the original
coating afterwards, and coved them slightly engine oil as a fellow
colleague indicated HKS recommended.  They are back in now.

Observations:  I have the older style unit.  Where the "clamps" or clips
are reflected a dirt band that did not come out with wahsing, but only
color wise.   Inspection in the sun showed equal pores across the entire
sponge.  Don't try this at home.  Beyond that, they went back in almost
easier than when new.  Not as pristine, but I feel this will be more than
adequate until next spring whence I fork over the $40 for the new ones.

My cleaner 2hp.

Hope you're all having a good weekend, best regards, and Hakuna Mattata,

Scott
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:20:33 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV

> Please recommend an aftermarket BOV.  I'm considering a Blitz.

I just installed a Greddy Type S BOV. Together with the 1st gen DSM flange the
thing is a simply replacement for the stock valve and also vents back to the
intake. The sound is very noticeable (not annoying) with an aftermarket filter
installed. The problematic adjusting is no issue as it does vent back and the
stumble noticed with other BOV that vents to the atmosphere is not there. I can
recommend it as it works perfect :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #304
****************************

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