--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #302
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Thursday, October 7 1999        Volume 01 : Number 302




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:21:32 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter

4??
how come a nonturbo needs 4 O2 sensors and where are they? just curious?

Omar
92 r/t

> Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
>
>
> Ed,
>
> Call Brian at GTPRO for the proper information. Also I think your 98 does
> have four O2 sensors so you should tap into one of the wires from the
> sensors before the cats.
>
> ADMIN Note : Please turn of the HTML, as this may confuse the mailing list
> server. Thanks.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 01:26:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter

> 4??
> how come a nonturbo needs 4 O2 sensors and where are they? just curious?

This has absolutely nothing to do with nonturbo or turbo or Nitrous or
whatever. It is emmision related.

Of course only the ODBII and California cars have 4 of them ! As you know
these cars have to test if the pre-cats are still working and therefore, one
is in front of the precat and another afterwards. And as all our cars have a
V6 ... 2x2 = 4.

Hope this helps (food for the FAQ !!!)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:57:10 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter

OH!. so all non turbos and turbos have precats. i thought it was just
turbos. i didn't know that. does this apply to the older 1st gen non turbos
as well? do i have precats i could gut?

Omar


> This has absolutely nothing to do with nonturbo or turbo or Nitrous or
> whatever. It is emmision related.
>
> Of course only the ODBII and California cars have 4 of them ! As you know
> these cars have to test if the pre-cats are still working and
> therefore, one
> is in front of the precat and another afterwards. And as all our
> cars have a
> V6 ... 2x2 = 4.
>
> Hope this helps (food for the FAQ !!!)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 20:34:32 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters

I've got the sponge filters but I'm not particularly impressed with them.  After washing
them I put a light quote of engine oil on the outside surface (HKS recommendation) and
place them back in retaining mesh.  I've had a difficult time getting them to firmly
rest against the mating part causing a direct leak path for dirt.  Even when I do get
them to seal, there is evidence of dirt getting through (usually found collected on the
inside wall at the first bend).  I wouldn't mind switching over to a K&N type filter.

Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT Stealth

Chris Winkley wrote:

> SJ...
>
> I wash out my HKS Super Flo's every couple months. Soap and water, squeeze
> dry, left to sit for a day or two. Works great, they hold their shape well,
> and fit back into the baskets nicely. However, there was a filter review
> posted a few weeks ago that indicate our filters don't filter worth spit.
> :-(
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sjc0u812@juno.com [mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 11:42 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
>
> Hello to all:
>
> I was wondering if anyone out there has washed out and reused their HKS
> sponge filters with success.  Please advise.
>
> Best regards, SJ
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 19:49:24 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question about 15G's I bought...

I was looking at the rear 15G I bought and on turbine intake side it has only 2 of the 3
holes tapped. I hope this isn't a mistake or something but there's three holes there to
hook the exhaust manifold to and only two are tapped...If the other one needs to be
tapped I can have the machine shop where I work do it.

Trevor James
96 R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech (HKS EVCIV@1.00 bar, Plugs@.034", Borla, K&N FIPK)

92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60 5.34 Gtech

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 22:18:52 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: Field research - oil pressure

In a previous message Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good for your
engine to
> be under load with low oil pressure.
>



Just yesterday I conversed with another list member regarding oil pressure.
We have both installed aftermarket oil pressure gauges and were comparing
our readings.  I noted the following:

Conditions:  Ambient temp = 45F, Mobil1 15W50, less that 500 miles old.

84 PSI at startup idle - cold engine.

After thorough warming (10+ miles of driving):
19-20 PSI at idle
46-48 PSI at 2000 RPM
70 PSI at 3000 RPM
80 PSI at 3600 RPM
88 PSI at 5500 RPM

Since 1600 and 1800 RPM were discussed today in the context of potentially
causing damage I went for another ride to get some more readings.  Again I
made sure the oil was up to operating temperature.
At 1600 RPM the oil pressure was 39 PSI, and at 1800 this increased to 42
PSI.  The car is a '95 R/T TT.  Please note that I am using a high viscosity
synthetic oil.  I recall that the readings were somewhat lower when I used a
10W30 synthetic, primarily at idle.

Draw your own conclusions.  I can tell you that I will continue to use 6th
gear while driving down the Interstate.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 00:04:16 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Field research - oil pressure

The biggest thing with oil supply and engine load, isn't so much the
pressure, but volume.  Most racers use LPHV (low pressure high volume) pumps
which may only provide 40-50psi of pressure, but still flow more oil than
most higher pressure pumps.  I also know that the HP loss with a LPHV pump
is different, I just can't remember whether it was more or less.  :-)
Either way I don't think the difference in HP was more than 1 HP.

- -John Basol
'95 RT/TT

-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar [SMTP:swede@pclink.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 10:19 PM
To: Ken Middaugh; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Field research - oil pressure

In a previous message Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good for
your
engine to
> be under load with low oil pressure.
>



Just yesterday I conversed with another list member regarding oil
pressure.
We have both installed aftermarket oil pressure gauges and were
comparing
our readings.  I noted the following:

Conditions:  Ambient temp = 45F, Mobil1 15W50, less that 500 miles
old.

84 PSI at startup idle - cold engine.

After thorough warming (10+ miles of driving):
19-20 PSI at idle
46-48 PSI at 2000 RPM
70 PSI at 3000 RPM
80 PSI at 3600 RPM
88 PSI at 5500 RPM

Since 1600 and 1800 RPM were discussed today in the context of
potentially
causing damage I went for another ride to get some more readings.
Again I
made sure the oil was up to operating temperature.
At 1600 RPM the oil pressure was 39 PSI, and at 1800 this increased
to 42
PSI.  The car is a '95 R/T TT.  Please note that I am using a high
viscosity
synthetic oil.  I recall that the readings were somewhat lower when
I used a
10W30 synthetic, primarily at idle.

Draw your own conclusions.  I can tell you that I will continue to
use 6th
gear while driving down the Interstate.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:22:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter (pre-cats)

>OH!. so all non turbos and turbos have precats. i thought it was just
>turbos. i didn't know that. does this apply to the older 1st gen non turbos
>as well? do i have precats i could gut?

This made me thinking and my manual says that all V6 engines do have three
catalysts (at least in Europe). But I can't really say for sure as I haven't
seen an NA engine in real live. At least you'll have an O2 sensor before and
after the cat and when your car has precats then you have two O2 sensors for
each bank. Gutting the pre-catsis very beneficial for the turbos as the
turbines can spool more freely. Not really sure for the NAs as this may
reduce backpressure even more and some lower power may be lost but the upper
band will be better.

I wIll look more closely in the manual tonight.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:25:37 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about 15G's I bought...

>I was looking at the rear 15G I bought and on turbine intake side it has
only 2 of the 3
>holes tapped. I hope this isn't a mistake or something but there's three
holes there to
>hook the exhaust manifold to and only two are tapped...If the other one
needs to be
>tapped I can have the machine shop where I work do it.

As far as I remember, there are two bolts that are screwed in and one is
used with a nut. I can check back tonight with my GT368 turbos lying around.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:37:28 -0400
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS problem.

Matt,

   It is probably a broken wire at the top of the stut tower.  I had
the same problem, but all I did was to re-seat the connectors for
each of the front struts, and the problem never came back.  Guess I
just had a dirty connection.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors


Michael Booker wrote:
>
> My ECS lights are flashing, but both tour and sport lights are flashing
> at the same time. Does this indicate a gross malfunction? Can I replace
> the wiring harnesses? I suspect it may be the wiring, and I don't want
> to replace a whole strut if I don't have to.
>
> Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:18:51 -0700
From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work

Hello All,
I'm new to the group and would like to add some info to the collective (and
maybe also get some feed back).  I have a NA 94 3000GT.  Two weeks ago I
began to lose power and determined it was the clutch.   My estimate was
correct and after 117,600 miles my factory clutch was done.  I had it
replaced (~$530 parts and labor) and the mechanic (Precision Auto Care of
Woodland, CA) recommended a clutch made by "LUK".  I don't know much about
this clutch, which makes me a little leery.  I'd like to know if any one in
the group has had any experience with a "LUK" clutch.  I drove it last night
and this morning, I feel the clutch pedal has half the resistance force from
the original.  The clutch is working fine.

BTW While the trany was out (this was extra $) they replace the rear engine
seal and serviced the trany (I now have Redline Synthetic oil).

On another note does any one know of a good place to purchase a K&N FIPK?
 
Luis G. Interiano
Project Engineer
OEA Aerospace, Inc.
3530 Branscombe Rd.
Fairfield, CA 94533
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:36:14 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work

I just had about the same problem only they happened to find my tranny had leaked all the fluid out.  I bought a Kormex tranny and they installed a LUK clutch.  It does have half the resistance.  But I think that fades slightly seeing how I put 500 miles on mine and now it has a little more.  I put redline mt90 in tranny and shockproof in tc.  it seems to help the shifting a lot.  The clutch works fine though, and it seems to have a bit better grip than stock.  my clutch ran about the same as yours, I also bought a K&N from summit for 159.  it installed in about an hour.  Hope this helps.

Ryan
92RT/TT
K&N FIPK
Accel wires
RF plugs @ .034
soon a bit more boost!

MCSE/ASE     

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:12:58 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work

Luis

I got mine from www.dynamicracing1.com and installed it myself.  It's dirt
simple to put on with the exception for the 4 screws that hold on the mass
air sensor to the original air-intake bottom half.  Granted I have a '95,
and it was probably just a problem with my specific vehicle due to the fact
that the original nuts were screwed on too tightly.  But there's also a
wonderful design flaw with the ways these screw are held in place.  Normally
you'd think that to hold two piecs of material together you'd use regular
screws with heads on them and nuts (so you can get a grip on the head of the
screw with some pliars or something).  Well, some genius who was smokin' too
much crack at the time decided to make the screws headless, and put this 2
mm flat, rectangular bar on the end, and then put braces on either side of
the bar on the airintake part to provide the counter-torque for when you
turn the nut.  This would've worked ok, except for the fact that the braces
on the air-intake that provide the counter-torque were made of plastic
instead of metal.  So hence when I turned the nut (that was way to tight
because I think Titan himself came down and tightened them originally), the
plate on the end turned and ripped right through the plastic braces (on all
4 screws).  So now I have this wonderful long screw with the worlds tightest
nut on it, just spinning in place with no head on the screw to put some
vice-grips on.  I had to rip the plastic apart on the bottom half of the
original air-intake (thus destroying it  into shreds) so I could get at this
tiny 2mm plate to attempt to get some type of grip on it so I could get
these damn screws off.  Basically turning what should've been a 30 -60
minute job into like 4 hours filled with lots of explicatives :).

anyways, sorry for the story, but it is funny when I look back at it :).
But try www.dynamicracing1.com
or www.gtpro.com if they're out of stock :).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:48:43 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: No Boost! Low rpm Smoke, Help!

In a message dated 10/6/99 2:26:05 PM Central Daylight Time, xwing@execpc.com
writes:

<< Ahmed, you need to check the back turbo compressor side, and if
 not bad, then I'd suggest you need to REMOVE front turbo(could be that one
 if the not-visible turbine wheel "came off") and then the
 back turbo (since it is harder, do it LAST) to see which is the
 problem...ugh.  Let us know!
 
 Jack Tertadian >>

I plan on doing that this Tuesday.....not looking forward to this task of
getting into the turobs; I will start with checking both wastegates first;
then the front turbo next and then finally the rear turbo.  

I would like to thank everyone who has given me advice on this subject; I
knew disconnecting the battery would not do anything.....but I did it anyway
(I'm praying for anything here)....will now look into the wastegates ( I
believe one of the wastegates must be stuck!!  at least I hope so!!).....then
finally I will check both turbos, front first then the rear one. 

Thanks again, everyone.

Ahmed "AL-Depressioso AL-Crazy" 
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 18:57:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work (K&N)

Guys, as far as I know, the 2nd gen DSM K&N FIPK has a bigger filter and fits
perfectly. Price is below $100. It's maybe round and not oval but who cares.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 19:44:59 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bee-Racing Products

"R.G." wrote:
>
> >I am really interested in the exhaust manifold.  They really did a nice job
> >on it.  I am not versed enough in turbos to compare the HK$ ones they
> >installed to say, 17g's.  Anyone know how they compare?  Also I cannot
> >tell but it does not look like they are using a MAS.  Either that or it
> >is under the headlight.
>
> I was told that this is a custom made header design and nothing that will be
> produced in a larger series. Of course if we order 50 or so .... They
> installed three different turbos and the largest were comparable to 20Gs but
> dunno the others. For the fuel part I thought that they are using a VPC
> (i.e. no MAs nor MAF). Don't have the turbo mag (too much wrong stuff in
> there) so I can't see the pics.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT

It says they are using GT2835 turbos pushing 1.7 bar through a custom
intercooler (singular).  Fuel system upgrades include a Skyline pump and
an HKS F-Con V controller which allows RPM-based tuning.  Besides
exhaust, nothing else was mentioned - no internal work.  How are they
able to reliably push 25psi with only bolt ons?  I guess it can't be
doing this on pump gas...

I'd also like to know more about the "stock" Mitsu-Brembo SIX piston
calipers and slotted rotors!  Also interesting that the hood has vents,
while it sure looks like they're running the intake down to the stock
intercooler mounting location... (Mike's right that the air metering
system is hidden from view in the picture)

- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 21:59:35 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bee-Racing Products

> It says they are using GT2835 turbos pushing 1.7 bar through a custom
> intercooler (singular).  Fuel system upgrades include a Skyline pump and
> an HKS F-Con V controller which allows RPM-based tuning.  Besides
> exhaust, nothing else was mentioned - no internal work.  How are they
> able to reliably push 25psi with only bolt ons?  I guess it can't be
> doing this on pump gas...

No definitely not and my source told that the internals have been made.
Rods, pistons and TotalSeals. The pistons are a little higher and increase
compression a little.

> I'd also like to know more about the "stock" Mitsu-Brembo SIX piston
> calipers and slotted rotors!

As always, they have a lot of wrong stuff in their articles. The biggest
"stock" brakes are the ones from the WRC Rally car and they are not stock as
the stuff is comming directly from Brembo (four pot calipers and rotors).
Ralliart Germany doesn't know anything about a 6-pot caliper as this would
be too much for the axles of the light EVO.

> while it sure looks like they're running the intake down to the stock
> intercooler mounting location... (Mike's right that the air metering
> system is hidden from view in the picture)

Again, a VPC or F-Con does NOT use air metering. This is why a simple duct
from the front to the intake can be made :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:10:49 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Team3S: AWD transfer case info  (very long)

some more tidbits for the collective.. 

I ordered a rebuilt transfer case from MD Auto yesterday..  I was quoted
the same price ($850) as what was in Kens post below..  I then told him
about our wonderful list and the deals we had with other dealers and
distributors, and asked if he'd be able to cut us some slack..  success!
He gave me $50 off so the transfer case ended up at $800 + $25 for
shipping + $50 core charge = $875 to my door!  (note: the core charge in
the post below is incorrect, or they made an awful big change to it since
then) 

It's supposed to be here tomorrow..  I can hardly control myself!  :::)))

ok, so it's not exactly a bargain, and if your case isn't damaged, you can
certainly get the parts to rebuild it much cheaper..  but it seemed to be
the best deal around.. 

here's all the info I came up with in my research (keep in mind unless
noted that these quotes were all for 2nd gen cast iron transfer cases for
6 speed transmissions):

MD Auto   
619-390-0450, in San Diego  
$ 800.00 rebuilt with 1 year unlimited mileage warranty
(make sure you mention the list discount for this price! $50 core!)

Tallahassee Mitsu  
1-888-825-5648
$ 1836.33  list , $ 1469.06 discount price
(this month only -October 99- they are selling for $1280!!!  new!) <<<<------

Mag Auto (Chris)
1-800-229-1001
$ 1471.00  (claimed this is new)

Kormex
1-800-429-5464
$ 650 (5 speed), $1100 (6 speed)

M&S Recycling
1-800-695-4700
$ 900 (used, not rebuilt, 6 month warranty)

Standard Transmission
1-800-783-8726
$ 75 for bearing and seal kit   (I considered replacing the damaged pieces
of my case which they quoted at $25 for the cover plate, and $150 for the
section of case that bolts to the transmission..  I got a quote on a used
complete transfer case, but I can't seem to find it anywhere..)

that's I have for now..  If I find something I left out, I'll post an
update..  I also put this info on my webpage if anyone needs it it the
future..  http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt

I'm including a couple previous posts so more info is compiled in one
post..  I hope Ken and Jack won't mind..   sorry for the length..  I did
trim out the mail headers to save some space..  posts are separated by my
notes in [ ].. 

Dave
95 Black (2WD soon to be AWD again!) VR4

- ---------------------

[Ken Middaugh gave me this info:]


MD Auto rebuilds Getrags & transfer cases.  They also sell parts...

Good luck,
Ken

- -----INCLUDE--------

Anyway I just called MD Auto, 619-390-0450, in San Diego to follow up
with recent Getrag questions floating around.  I spoke with Mike for at
least 20 minutes and he is very friendly and helpful.  MD Auto as you
recall sells rebuilt Getrag transmissions and transfer cases and also
sells some parts.

5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case      $2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny      $2295
rebuilt transfer case           $850
(refundable) core charge        $500

Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage warranty. 

Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are replaced.  Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a source in Europe.  He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll tell you that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink).  He uses them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his source will stop providing him
access.  New bearings, shaft, transfer unit spool, and seals are used,
see below. 

There is no problem swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft.  Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape than the small shafts.  He said this is because
the small shaft's 18 splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines wear more.  ???

His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds.  Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core.  He doesn't rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.

Now he also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than OEM  $225
Shafts, OEM quality             $695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality    $695 (double ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case  $175

He also sells used gears & housings. 

I asked him about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts.  He
didn't sound too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.

Mike is a Corvette man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend of his had Getrag problems.  He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over $7K.

- --------------------

[I grabbed this post from Jack T. (xwing) on the starnet list:]

>From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
>Reply-To: xwing@execpc.com
>To: stealth@starnet.net
>Subject: Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild Sources
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:01:43 -0500
>
>Note, Norman Mitsu is closed.
>Jack Tertadian

Subject: Team3S: Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild Sources

TRANSAXLE / TRANSFER CASE / PARTS / REBUILD SOURCE
Summary:

1)  Try Tallahassee Mitsu  1888-825-5648, say you are on 3S Internet list for
like 25% discount and free ship for over $50
2)  Rockland Mitsu 1914-353-2100  Say internet/3SI member  "Terry"
3)  Norco Mitsu     1888-689-1788       "    "          "                "Bill"
4)  Lou Fusz Mitsu 1800-528-2525       "    "          "                "Greg or Marty"
5)  Norman Mitsu   1800-800-0853      "    "          "     25% off, free ship over $400

6)  MAG auto        1800-229-1001      I think these are used only?
7)  Kormex Trans Parts  1800-429-5464 "Frank Martin"  Has aftermarket
hardened output shafts for trans and other parts, do rebuilds.
8)  East Street Auto  1901-774-5374  "Jim"  I think they have ?stock output
shafts for $400, not sure here
9)  Southern Gear  1770-435-1461      Trans Rebuilders in Georgia, USA;
have done many of them, would be between them and Kormex if I had to
have rebuild based on info I have NOW.
10)  Max Mayants at "GTR Motorsports"   email NYMaxxNY@aol.com,
gets new transaxle bearing kits, output shaft for $430; was planning to
recoat the old/used synchro ring with new brass (not a bad idea) though
not the only part that wears (the gear face teeth and blocker rings also have
teeth that wear, but if can make new brasscoated rings that is one more part
being made!)  I don't have phone #, if you get it write back;  he said back in
May 99 he was opening up large shop for cars like ours.

When you find cheapest, PLEASE write back (could use REPLY to this so all
numbers reprinted but let us know cheapest so all info is in one message, or if
any have gone out of service...I try to keep abreast of the latest/cheapest this
way), and will try to send message like this occasionally for latest summary
etc.

Jack Tertadian

millebi@kw.igs.net wrote:

> I need new transfer case; mine blew; oil
> everywhere, piece of case missing. What is reasonable
> price for 1991 Stealth TT transfer case?   Dealer price
> $2195.00 +3.8 hours = (USD) $1463.00 = $1653.33.
> reply to "Bill_Miller@manulife.com"
> Bill  91 TT "Old Red"
- ------------------------------

end of rediculously long post....

Dave
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 16:19:39 -0400
From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update

Hi Everyone,

I took the car to the mechanic and as near as he could tell the noise is the throwout bearing, or something related to the clutch. He said not to worry about it, but to replace it when its time to do the clutch.

Which brings me to a question: which is your favorite aftermarket clutch?

Also, anyone got a line on functional hood scoops to replace the hood blisters? The only ones I could find were from BOZZ @ $425! This seems like quite a bit of money for scoops made out of fiberglass. Perhaps if we could get enough people from the group interested we could have scoop custom made out of carbon fiber - seems to me I recall that there is a company doing this somewhere. Anyone interested?

Kevin

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:31:05 -0500
From: Matt A Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update

> I took the car to the mechanic and as near as he could tell
> the noise is the throwout bearing, or something related to
> the clutch. He said not to worry about it, but to replace it
> when its time to do the clutch.

Depending on how many miles are on your car, you might want to consider doing the clutch sooner rather than later.  As the throwout bearing gets worse it'll put more pressure on the shaft that it rides on and may start to wear grooves (or worse) in it.  Of course, with the Getrag trannies you can't get parts so you'd be looking at getting a new tranny.  :-(

- -Matt
95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:59:55 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: upper stress bars?

I just called my performance shop on the sway bars (forgot to yesterday, got
too busy :(.  He used to get them from Suspension Techniques, but checked
the latest catalog and saw that they weren't listed anymore.  So he called
and it seems they stoped making them for the 3000's :(.  He said he's going
to check on some direct import stuff from Japan and a few other sources, so
if he finds anything I'll let ya'll know :).



Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 15:31:11 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update

I am so sure this has been done, but just and only just because I thought for sure this had been done on mine I am going to post this reply.  Check the Tranny fluid level.  I had this noise.  I was told it was throwout bearing, I figured they had done more than just listen.  I was told to replace it when the clutch needed it.  In the meantime my tranny developed a leak, or it had one the whole time, and decided to shell itself.  Which sucked because I already had the clutch bought.  Please check this. Trust me it might not be the throwout bearing.  Also I had a LUK clutch installed.  Seems to have a little more bite than stock.  I was told Centerforce doesn't make one for our cars and I wish I had persisted a little more.

MCSE/ASE     

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 17:05:17 -0400
From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update

Thanks for the advice. Actually this makes sense since the noise goes away 1. when the car gets warm and 2. when I push in the clutch (ie disengage the gears). Doesn't the throwout bearing usually make noise when the clutch is engaged and not the reverse?

Kevin

3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:59:08 -0700
From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Starter & Spark Plug Question

Gentlemen,
I had my clutch replaced yesterday and the minute I started it on the lot it
made a screeching noise.  The noise only occurs when I start the car.  Are
our cars prone to faulty starters or is it something that goes away as the
clutch gets worn in?  My car does have 117,000 miles on it, I suppose it
could be normal wear.

The second part of my post:
While I was at the mechanics shop, I asked about changing the plugs (NGK
silver platinum) and they quoted me $15.00 a plug.  I find this price very
excessive can any one explain why our plugs are so @#$#$%% expensive?  Is
there a better price with some other vendor?

Luis G. Interiano
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 21:04:32 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: upper stress bars?

I have a '95 VR-4, and would love to have a bar between the front
strur towers, but after looking under the hood with this in mind I don't
see where one would fit.  Does anyone know if such an item exists?
Has anyone seen or heard of one?
Regards, ptg

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #302
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