--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #302
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Thursday, October 7 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
302
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:21:32 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Air/Fuel Meter
4??
how come a nonturbo needs 4 O2 sensors and where
are they? just curious?
Omar
92 r/t
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Air/Fuel Meter
>
>
> Ed,
>
> Call Brian at GTPRO
for the proper information. Also I think your 98 does
> have four O2
sensors so you should tap into one of the wires from the
> sensors before
the cats.
>
> ADMIN Note : Please turn of the HTML, as this may
confuse the mailing list
> server. Thanks.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 01:26:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
> 4??
> how come a nonturbo needs 4 O2
sensors and where are they? just curious?
This has absolutely nothing to
do with nonturbo or turbo or Nitrous or
whatever. It is emmision
related.
Of course only the ODBII and California cars have 4 of them ! As
you know
these cars have to test if the pre-cats are still working and
therefore, one
is in front of the precat and another afterwards. And as all
our cars have a
V6 ... 2x2 = 4.
Hope this helps (food for the FAQ
!!!)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:57:10 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Air/Fuel Meter
OH!. so all non turbos and turbos have precats. i thought
it was just
turbos. i didn't know that. does this apply to the older 1st gen
non turbos
as well? do i have precats i could
gut?
Omar
> This has absolutely nothing to do with nonturbo
or turbo or Nitrous or
> whatever. It is emmision related.
>
>
Of course only the ODBII and California cars have 4 of them ! As you
know
> these cars have to test if the pre-cats are still working
and
> therefore, one
> is in front of the precat and another
afterwards. And as all our
> cars have a
> V6 ... 2x2 =
4.
>
> Hope this helps (food for the FAQ !!!)
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 20:34:32 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
I've got the sponge filters but I'm not
particularly impressed with them. After washing
them I put a light
quote of engine oil on the outside surface (HKS recommendation) and
place
them back in retaining mesh. I've had a difficult time getting them to
firmly
rest against the mating part causing a direct leak path for
dirt. Even when I do get
them to seal, there is evidence of dirt
getting through (usually found collected on the
inside wall at the first
bend). I wouldn't mind switching over to a K&N type filter.
Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT Stealth
Chris Winkley wrote:
>
SJ...
>
> I wash out my HKS Super Flo's every couple months. Soap
and water, squeeze
> dry, left to sit for a day or two. Works great, they
hold their shape well,
> and fit back into the baskets nicely. However,
there was a filter review
> posted a few weeks ago that indicate our
filters don't filter worth spit.
> :-(
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sjc0u812@juno.com [mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 06, 1999 11:42 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
>
> Hello to
all:
>
> I was wondering if anyone out there has washed out and
reused their HKS
> sponge filters with success. Please
advise.
>
> Best regards, SJ
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 19:49:24 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Question about 15G's I bought...
I was looking at the rear 15G I bought
and on turbine intake side it has only 2 of the 3
holes tapped. I hope this
isn't a mistake or something but there's three holes there to
hook the
exhaust manifold to and only two are tapped...If the other one needs to
be
tapped I can have the machine shop where I work do it.
Trevor
James
96 R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech
(HKS EVCIV@1.00 bar, Plugs@.034", Borla, K&N
FIPK)
92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60 5.34
Gtech
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 22:18:52 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Field research - oil pressure
In a previous message Ken Middaugh
wrote:
> Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good for
your
engine to
> be under load with low oil
pressure.
>
Just yesterday I conversed with another list
member regarding oil pressure.
We have both installed aftermarket oil
pressure gauges and were comparing
our readings. I noted the
following:
Conditions: Ambient temp = 45F, Mobil1 15W50, less that
500 miles old.
84 PSI at startup idle - cold engine.
After
thorough warming (10+ miles of driving):
19-20 PSI at idle
46-48 PSI at
2000 RPM
70 PSI at 3000 RPM
80 PSI at 3600 RPM
88 PSI at 5500
RPM
Since 1600 and 1800 RPM were discussed today in the context of
potentially
causing damage I went for another ride to get some more
readings. Again I
made sure the oil was up to operating
temperature.
At 1600 RPM the oil pressure was 39 PSI, and at 1800 this
increased to 42
PSI. The car is a '95 R/T TT. Please note that I
am using a high viscosity
synthetic oil. I recall that the readings
were somewhat lower when I used a
10W30 synthetic, primarily at
idle.
Draw your own conclusions. I can tell you that I will
continue to use 6th
gear while driving down the
Interstate.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 00:04:16 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Field research - oil pressure
The biggest thing with oil supply
and engine load, isn't so much the
pressure, but volume. Most racers
use LPHV (low pressure high volume) pumps
which may only provide 40-50psi of
pressure, but still flow more oil than
most higher pressure pumps. I
also know that the HP loss with a LPHV pump
is different, I just can't
remember whether it was more or less. :-)
Either way I don't think the
difference in HP was more than 1 HP.
- -John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar [SMTP:swede@pclink.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 06, 1999 10:19 PM
To: Ken Middaugh; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Field research - oil pressure
In a previous message Ken Middaugh
wrote:
> Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good
for
your
engine to
> be under load with low oil
pressure.
>
Just yesterday I conversed with another list
member regarding oil
pressure.
We have both installed aftermarket oil
pressure gauges and were
comparing
our readings. I noted the
following:
Conditions: Ambient temp = 45F, Mobil1 15W50, less that
500 miles
old.
84 PSI at startup idle - cold engine.
After
thorough warming (10+ miles of driving):
19-20 PSI at idle
46-48 PSI at
2000 RPM
70 PSI at 3000 RPM
80 PSI at 3600 RPM
88 PSI at 5500
RPM
Since 1600 and 1800 RPM were discussed today in the context
of
potentially
causing damage I went for another ride to get some more
readings.
Again I
made sure the oil was up to operating temperature.
At
1600 RPM the oil pressure was 39 PSI, and at 1800 this increased
to
42
PSI. The car is a '95 R/T TT. Please note that I am using a
high
viscosity
synthetic oil. I recall that the readings were
somewhat lower when
I used a
10W30 synthetic, primarily at
idle.
Draw your own conclusions. I can tell you that I will
continue to
use 6th
gear while driving down the
Interstate.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:22:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter (pre-cats)
>OH!. so all non turbos and turbos
have precats. i thought it was just
>turbos. i didn't know that. does this
apply to the older 1st gen non turbos
>as well? do i have precats i could
gut?
This made me thinking and my manual says that all V6 engines do have
three
catalysts (at least in Europe). But I can't really say for sure as I
haven't
seen an NA engine in real live. At least you'll have an O2 sensor
before and
after the cat and when your car has precats then you have two O2
sensors for
each bank. Gutting the pre-catsis very beneficial for the turbos
as the
turbines can spool more freely. Not really sure for the NAs as this
may
reduce backpressure even more and some lower power may be lost but the
upper
band will be better.
I wIll look more closely in the manual
tonight.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:25:37 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about 15G's I bought...
>I was looking at the rear
15G I bought and on turbine intake side it has
only 2 of the 3
>holes
tapped. I hope this isn't a mistake or something but there's three
holes
there to
>hook the exhaust manifold to and only two are tapped...If the
other one
needs to be
>tapped I can have the machine shop where I work
do it.
As far as I remember, there are two bolts that are screwed in and
one is
used with a nut. I can check back tonight with my GT368 turbos lying
around.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:37:28 -0400
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS problem.
Matt,
It is probably a
broken wire at the top of the stut tower. I had
the same problem, but
all I did was to re-seat the connectors for
each of the front struts, and
the problem never came back. Guess I
just had a dirty connection.
-
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and
Magnecors
Michael Booker wrote:
>
> My ECS lights are
flashing, but both tour and sport lights are flashing
> at the same time.
Does this indicate a gross malfunction? Can I replace
> the wiring
harnesses? I suspect it may be the wiring, and I don't want
> to replace a
whole strut if I don't have to.
>
> Matt
> #311
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and
Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:18:51 -0700
From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cluctch / Trany work
Hello All,
I'm new to the group and would like to
add some info to the collective (and
maybe also get some feed back). I
have a NA 94 3000GT. Two weeks ago I
began to lose power and determined
it was the clutch. My estimate was
correct and after 117,600
miles my factory clutch was done. I had it
replaced (~$530 parts and
labor) and the mechanic (Precision Auto Care of
Woodland, CA) recommended a
clutch made by "LUK". I don't know much about
this clutch, which makes
me a little leery. I'd like to know if any one in
the group has had any
experience with a "LUK" clutch. I drove it last night
and this morning,
I feel the clutch pedal has half the resistance force from
the
original. The clutch is working fine.
BTW While the trany was out
(this was extra $) they replace the rear engine
seal and serviced the trany
(I now have Redline Synthetic oil).
On another note does any one know of
a good place to purchase a K&N FIPK?
Luis G. Interiano
Project Engineer
OEA Aerospace, Inc.
3530 Branscombe Rd.
Fairfield,
CA 94533
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:36:14 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cluctch / Trany work
I just had about the same problem only they happened
to find my tranny had leaked all the fluid out. I bought a Kormex tranny
and they installed a LUK clutch. It does have half the resistance.
But I think that fades slightly seeing how I put 500 miles on mine and now it
has a little more. I put redline mt90 in tranny and shockproof in
tc. it seems to help the shifting a lot. The clutch works fine
though, and it seems to have a bit better grip than stock. my clutch ran
about the same as yours, I also bought a K&N from summit for 159. it
installed in about an hour. Hope this helps.
Ryan
92RT/TT
K&N FIPK
Accel wires
RF plugs @ .034
soon a bit more
boost!
MCSE/ASE
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:12:58 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cluctch / Trany work
Luis
I got mine from www.dynamicracing1.com and installed it
myself. It's dirt
simple to put on with the exception for the 4 screws
that hold on the mass
air sensor to the original air-intake bottom
half. Granted I have a '95,
and it was probably just a problem with my
specific vehicle due to the fact
that the original nuts were screwed on too
tightly. But there's also a
wonderful design flaw with the ways these
screw are held in place. Normally
you'd think that to hold two piecs of
material together you'd use regular
screws with heads on them and nuts (so
you can get a grip on the head of the
screw with some pliars or
something). Well, some genius who was smokin' too
much crack at the
time decided to make the screws headless, and put this 2
mm flat, rectangular
bar on the end, and then put braces on either side of
the bar on the
airintake part to provide the counter-torque for when you
turn the nut.
This would've worked ok, except for the fact that the braces
on the
air-intake that provide the counter-torque were made of plastic
instead of
metal. So hence when I turned the nut (that was way to tight
because I
think Titan himself came down and tightened them originally), the
plate on
the end turned and ripped right through the plastic braces (on all
4
screws). So now I have this wonderful long screw with the worlds
tightest
nut on it, just spinning in place with no head on the screw to put
some
vice-grips on. I had to rip the plastic apart on the bottom half
of the
original air-intake (thus destroying it into shreds) so I could
get at this
tiny 2mm plate to attempt to get some type of grip on it so I
could get
these damn screws off. Basically turning what should've been
a 30 -60
minute job into like 4 hours filled with lots of explicatives
:).
anyways, sorry for the story, but it is funny when I look back at it
:).
But try www.dynamicracing1.com
or www.gtpro.com if they're out of stock
:).
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:48:43 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: No Boost! Low rpm Smoke, Help!
In a message dated 10/6/99 2:26:05 PM
Central Daylight Time, xwing@execpc.com
writes:
<< Ahmed, you need to check the back turbo compressor
side, and if
not bad, then I'd suggest you need to REMOVE front
turbo(could be that one
if the not-visible turbine wheel "came off")
and then the
back turbo (since it is harder, do it LAST) to see which
is the
problem...ugh. Let us know!
Jack
Tertadian >>
I plan on doing that this Tuesday.....not looking
forward to this task of
getting into the turobs; I will start with checking
both wastegates first;
then the front turbo next and then finally the rear
turbo.
I would like to thank everyone who has given me
advice on this subject; I
knew disconnecting the battery would not do
anything.....but I did it anyway
(I'm praying for anything here)....will now
look into the wastegates ( I
believe one of the wastegates must be
stuck!! at least I hope so!!).....then
finally I will check both
turbos, front first then the rear one.
Thanks again,
everyone.
Ahmed "AL-Depressioso AL-Crazy"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 07 Oct 1999 18:57:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work (K&N)
Guys, as far as I know, the 2nd
gen DSM K&N FIPK has a bigger filter and fits
perfectly. Price is below
$100. It's maybe round and not oval but who cares.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 07 Oct 1999 19:44:59 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bee-Racing Products
"R.G." wrote:
>
> >I am
really interested in the exhaust manifold. They really did a nice
job
> >on it. I am not versed enough in turbos to compare the HK$
ones they
> >installed to say, 17g's. Anyone know how they
compare? Also I cannot
> >tell but it does not look like they are
using a MAS. Either that or it
> >is under the headlight.
>
> I was told that this is a custom made header design and nothing that
will be
> produced in a larger series. Of course if we order 50 or so ....
They
> installed three different turbos and the largest were comparable to
20Gs but
> dunno the others. For the fuel part I thought that they are
using a VPC
> (i.e. no MAs nor MAF). Don't have the turbo mag (too much
wrong stuff in
> there) so I can't see the pics.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
It says they are using GT2835 turbos pushing
1.7 bar through a custom
intercooler (singular). Fuel system upgrades
include a Skyline pump and
an HKS F-Con V controller which allows RPM-based
tuning. Besides
exhaust, nothing else was mentioned - no internal
work. How are they
able to reliably push 25psi with only bolt
ons? I guess it can't be
doing this on pump gas...
I'd also like
to know more about the "stock" Mitsu-Brembo SIX piston
calipers and slotted
rotors! Also interesting that the hood has vents,
while it sure looks
like they're running the intake down to the stock
intercooler mounting
location... (Mike's right that the air metering
system is hidden from view in
the picture)
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 21:59:35 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bee-Racing Products
> It says they are using GT2835 turbos
pushing 1.7 bar through a custom
> intercooler (singular). Fuel
system upgrades include a Skyline pump and
> an HKS F-Con V controller
which allows RPM-based tuning. Besides
> exhaust, nothing else was
mentioned - no internal work. How are they
> able to reliably push
25psi with only bolt ons? I guess it can't be
> doing this on pump
gas...
No definitely not and my source told that the internals have been
made.
Rods, pistons and TotalSeals. The pistons are a little higher and
increase
compression a little.
> I'd also like to know more about
the "stock" Mitsu-Brembo SIX piston
> calipers and slotted
rotors!
As always, they have a lot of wrong stuff in their articles. The
biggest
"stock" brakes are the ones from the WRC Rally car and they are not
stock as
the stuff is comming directly from Brembo (four pot calipers and
rotors).
Ralliart Germany doesn't know anything about a 6-pot caliper as this
would
be too much for the axles of the light EVO.
> while it sure
looks like they're running the intake down to the stock
> intercooler
mounting location... (Mike's right that the air metering
> system is
hidden from view in the picture)
Again, a VPC or F-Con does NOT use air
metering. This is why a simple duct
from the front to the intake can be made
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:10:49 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: AWD transfer case info (very long)
some more tidbits for
the collective..
I ordered a rebuilt transfer case from MD Auto
yesterday.. I was quoted
the same price ($850) as what was in Kens post
below.. I then told him
about our wonderful list and the deals we had
with other dealers and
distributors, and asked if he'd be able to cut us
some slack.. success!
He gave me $50 off so the transfer case ended up
at $800 + $25 for
shipping + $50 core charge = $875 to my door! (note:
the core charge in
the post below is incorrect, or they made an awful big
change to it since
then)
It's supposed to be here
tomorrow.. I can hardly control myself! :::)))
ok, so it's
not exactly a bargain, and if your case isn't damaged, you can
certainly get
the parts to rebuild it much cheaper.. but it seemed to be
the best
deal around..
here's all the info I came up with in my research
(keep in mind unless
noted that these quotes were all for 2nd gen cast iron
transfer cases for
6 speed transmissions):
MD Auto
619-390-0450, in San Diego
$ 800.00 rebuilt with 1 year
unlimited mileage warranty
(make sure you mention the list discount for this
price! $50 core!)
Tallahassee Mitsu
1-888-825-5648
$
1836.33 list , $ 1469.06 discount price
(this month only -October 99-
they are selling for $1280!!! new!) <<<<------
Mag Auto
(Chris)
1-800-229-1001
$ 1471.00 (claimed this is
new)
Kormex
1-800-429-5464
$ 650 (5 speed), $1100 (6
speed)
M&S Recycling
1-800-695-4700
$ 900 (used, not rebuilt, 6
month warranty)
Standard Transmission
1-800-783-8726
$ 75 for
bearing and seal kit (I considered replacing the damaged pieces
of my case which they quoted at $25 for the cover plate, and $150 for the
section of case that bolts to the transmission.. I got a quote on a
used
complete transfer case, but I can't seem to find it
anywhere..)
that's I have for now.. If I find something I left out,
I'll post an
update.. I also put this info on my webpage if anyone
needs it it the
future.. http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt
I'm
including a couple previous posts so more info is compiled in one
post.. I hope Ken and Jack won't mind.. sorry for the
length.. I did
trim out the mail headers to save some space..
posts are separated by my
notes in [ ]..
Dave
95 Black (2WD
soon to be AWD again!) VR4
- ---------------------
[Ken Middaugh
gave me this info:]
MD Auto rebuilds Getrags & transfer
cases. They also sell parts...
Good luck,
Ken
-
-----INCLUDE--------
Anyway I just called MD Auto, 619-390-0450, in San
Diego to follow up
with recent Getrag questions floating around. I
spoke with Mike for at
least 20 minutes and he is very friendly and
helpful. MD Auto as you
recall sells rebuilt Getrag transmissions and
transfer cases and also
sells some parts.
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny
& rebuilt transfer case $2695
5 or 6 spd.
rebuilt tranny $2295
rebuilt transfer
case
$850
(refundable) core charge
$500
Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage
warranty.
Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are
replaced. Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a source in
Europe. He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll tell you
that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink). He uses
them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his source
will stop providing him
access. New bearings, shaft, transfer unit
spool, and seals are used,
see below.
There is no problem
swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft.
Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape
than the small shafts. He said this is because
the small shaft's 18
splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines
wear more. ???
His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds.
Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core. He doesn't
rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.
Now he
also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than
OEM $225
Shafts, OEM
quality
$695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality $695 (double
ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case
$175
He also sells used gears & housings.
I asked him
about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts. He
didn't sound
too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.
Mike is a Corvette
man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend
of his had Getrag problems. He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in
the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over $7K.
-
--------------------
[I grabbed this post from Jack T. (xwing) on the
starnet list:]
>From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
>Reply-To: xwing@execpc.com
>To: stealth@starnet.net
>Subject:
Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild Sources
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:01:43
-0500
>
>Note, Norman Mitsu is closed.
>Jack
Tertadian
Subject: Team3S: Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild
Sources
TRANSAXLE / TRANSFER CASE / PARTS / REBUILD
SOURCE
Summary:
1) Try Tallahassee Mitsu 1888-825-5648,
say you are on 3S Internet list for
like 25% discount and free ship for over
$50
2) Rockland Mitsu 1914-353-2100 Say internet/3SI member
"Terry"
3) Norco Mitsu
1888-689-1788 "
"
"
"Bill"
4) Lou Fusz Mitsu
1800-528-2525 "
"
"
"Greg or Marty"
5) Norman Mitsu
1800-800-0853 "
"
" 25% off, free ship over $400
6) MAG
auto
1800-229-1001 I think these are used
only?
7) Kormex Trans Parts 1800-429-5464 "Frank Martin"
Has aftermarket
hardened output shafts for trans and other parts, do
rebuilds.
8) East Street Auto 1901-774-5374 "Jim" I
think they have ?stock output
shafts for $400, not sure here
9)
Southern Gear 1770-435-1461 Trans Rebuilders
in Georgia, USA;
have done many of them, would be between them and Kormex if
I had to
have rebuild based on info I have NOW.
10) Max Mayants at
"GTR Motorsports" email NYMaxxNY@aol.com,
gets new transaxle
bearing kits, output shaft for $430; was planning to
recoat the old/used
synchro ring with new brass (not a bad idea) though
not the only part that
wears (the gear face teeth and blocker rings also have
teeth that wear, but
if can make new brasscoated rings that is one more part
being made!) I
don't have phone #, if you get it write back; he said back in
May 99 he
was opening up large shop for cars like ours.
When you find cheapest,
PLEASE write back (could use REPLY to this so all
numbers reprinted but let
us know cheapest so all info is in one message, or if
any have gone out of
service...I try to keep abreast of the latest/cheapest this
way), and will
try to send message like this occasionally for latest
summary
etc.
Jack Tertadian
millebi@kw.igs.net wrote:
> I
need new transfer case; mine blew; oil
> everywhere, piece of case
missing. What is reasonable
> price for 1991 Stealth TT transfer
case? Dealer price
> $2195.00 +3.8 hours = (USD) $1463.00 =
$1653.33.
> reply to "Bill_Miller@manulife.com"
>
Bill 91 TT "Old Red"
- ------------------------------
end of
rediculously long post....
Dave
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 16:19:39 -0400
From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: 92
VR4 Noise/Rattle Update
Hi Everyone,
I took the car to the
mechanic and as near as he could tell the noise is the throwout bearing, or
something related to the clutch. He said not to worry about it, but to replace
it when its time to do the clutch.
Which brings me to a question: which
is your favorite aftermarket clutch?
Also, anyone got a line on
functional hood scoops to replace the hood blisters? The only ones I could find
were from BOZZ @ $425! This seems like quite a bit of money for scoops made out
of fiberglass. Perhaps if we could get enough people from the group interested
we could have scoop custom made out of carbon fiber - seems to me I recall that
there is a company doing this somewhere. Anyone
interested?
Kevin
3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
___________________________________________________________
Get
your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:31:05 -0500
From: Matt A Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update
> I took the car to the mechanic
and as near as he could tell
> the noise is the throwout bearing, or
something related to
> the clutch. He said not to worry about it, but to
replace it
> when its time to do the clutch.
Depending on how many
miles are on your car, you might want to consider doing the clutch sooner rather
than later. As the throwout bearing gets worse it'll put more pressure on
the shaft that it rides on and may start to wear grooves (or worse) in it.
Of course, with the Getrag trannies you can't get parts so you'd be looking at
getting a new tranny. :-(
- -Matt
95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:59:55 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
upper stress bars?
I just called my performance shop on the sway bars
(forgot to yesterday, got
too busy :(. He used to get them from
Suspension Techniques, but checked
the latest catalog and saw that they
weren't listed anymore. So he called
and it seems they stoped making
them for the 3000's :(. He said he's going
to check on some direct
import stuff from Japan and a few other sources, so
if he finds anything I'll
let ya'll know :).
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 07 Oct 1999 15:31:11 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 92
VR4 Noise/Rattle Update
I am so sure this has been done, but just and
only just because I thought for sure this had been done on mine I am going to
post this reply. Check the Tranny fluid level. I had this
noise. I was told it was throwout bearing, I figured they had done more
than just listen. I was told to replace it when the clutch needed
it. In the meantime my tranny developed a leak, or it had one the whole
time, and decided to shell itself. Which sucked because I already had the
clutch bought. Please check this. Trust me it might not be the throwout
bearing. Also I had a LUK clutch installed. Seems to have a little
more bite than stock. I was told Centerforce doesn't make one for our cars
and I wish I had persisted a little
more.
MCSE/ASE
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 17:05:17 -0400
From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject: Re: Re:
Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update
Thanks for the advice. Actually this
makes sense since the noise goes away 1. when the car gets warm and 2. when I
push in the clutch (ie disengage the gears). Doesn't the throwout bearing
usually make noise when the clutch is engaged and not the
reverse?
Kevin
3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
___________________________________________________________
Get
your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:59:08 -0700
From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Starter & Spark Plug Question
Gentlemen,
I had my clutch replaced
yesterday and the minute I started it on the lot it
made a screeching
noise. The noise only occurs when I start the car. Are
our cars
prone to faulty starters or is it something that goes away as the
clutch gets
worn in? My car does have 117,000 miles on it, I suppose it
could be
normal wear.
The second part of my post:
While I was at the mechanics
shop, I asked about changing the plugs (NGK
silver platinum) and they quoted
me $15.00 a plug. I find this price very
excessive can any one explain
why our plugs are so @#$#$%% expensive? Is
there a better price with
some other vendor?
Luis G. Interiano
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Oct 1999 21:04:32 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
upper stress bars?
I have a '95 VR-4, and would love to have a bar
between the front
strur towers, but after looking under the hood with this in
mind I don't
see where one would fit. Does anyone know if such an item
exists?
Has anyone seen or heard of one?
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #302
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm