--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #300
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Tuesday, October 5 1999         Volume 01 : Number 300




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 16:45:19 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <efein@microstrategy.com>
Subject: Team3S: T-Belt Warning

A quick notification and word of warning for folks out there:

On Friday night my timing belt tensioner failed on my '94 VR-4. The belt had
been changed less than 10,000 miles ago by the now-defunct Nexus
Motorsports. The failure was caused by improper installation of the
tensioner.

Given the bad installation on my car, I was extremely lucky: First, on
Friday, my completely slack timing belt made enough of a racket slapping
against the plastic belt covers that we were able to find and diagnose the
problem, and (thanks to Lorne Silkes) I got my car flatbedded home before it
skipped any teeth and wrecked my engine. Second, thanks to TurboHarry, I
found a cartified master mechanic willing to come by my house on Saturday
and replace the tensioner and water pump (which had been damaged in the
process). This is how we discovered that my tensioner pulley had been
under-torqued and the alignment cam misaligned by Nexus.

I know Nexus changed a number of timing belts in the last year. Since their
customer service was excellent but their mechanical experience relatively
light, I believe the improper installation was likely the result of an
honest mistake rather than carelessness on their part. Unfortunately, this
means the mistake may have been repeated on the other cars whose timing
belts were changed there. And as they are now out of business, they will not
be able to honor any warranty on their timing belt installations.

Hence, if you had your timing belt changed by Nexus Motorsports, it may be
worth your while to have the car inspected for correct tensioner
installation, as tensioner failure can easily lead to $4000 repair jobs.


On the good news side, the mechanic who fixed my car, Glynn Meade,
demonstrated both excellent mechanical experience with our cars *and*
excellent customer service / care for the job - a combination I have found
to be extremely rare. He is located in Rhode Island, phone number
(401)-738-9947. He not only made a house call for me on Saturday north of
Boston, but his charge for both parts and labor was extremely reasonable.

   -Ed



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 20:26:24 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS's Tech Number and question on EVC IV..

Anyone know if there's a way to tell for sure if an EVC IV is in "Auto Adjust"
mode. Didn't think anyone would! Does anyone have HKS's Tech Number or e-mail
address. They have NO contact info on their web site.

Trevor

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:58:48 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Evening all,
    Just received my Hallman bleeder valve from Burschur racing.  I'd =
like to install it this weekend but have one question.  The setup is =
simple enough, but calls for the valve to essentially replace the stock =
solenoid.  The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold AND one vac =
line out of the Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.  Should I cap the =
Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap the line from the manifold?  =
After that, I'll just tee the actuator lines on the bled side.  Any =
opinion is greatly appreciated.

Cory
96 R/T TT

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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">Evening all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Just received my Hallman bleeder valve from =
Burschur=20
racing.&nbsp; I'd like to install it this weekend but have one =
question.&nbsp;=20
The setup is simple enough, but calls for the valve to essentially =
replace the=20
stock solenoid.&nbsp; The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold =
AND one=20
vac line out of the Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.&nbsp; Should I =
cap the=20
Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap the line from the =
manifold?&nbsp;=20
After that, I'll just tee the actuator lines on the bled side.&nbsp; Any =
opinion=20
is greatly appreciated.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cory</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">96 R/T TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF0EAB.413D5C00--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 10:41:01 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

> but calls for the valve to essentially replace the stock solenoid.

I do not recommend this as you'll see less performance then.

> The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold AND one vac line out of the
> Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.

Usually, a bleeder valve simply bleeds pressure to the air. The Hallman design
may need another feeder line to close the valve when boost rises. What manual
are you refering to and do oyu say that BOTH lines lead to the H connector ?

> Should I cap the Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap the line from the
> manifold?  After that, I'll just tee the actuator lines on the bled side.

And why should any of them be capped ? Makes no sense to me :)

Also don't forget a good boost gauge ! The Hallman bleeder is not that fast and
may cause overboost that cannot be seen by the stock gauge. This is maybe why
they say to remove the stock boost solenoid ...

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 11:05:40 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Stock boost gauge warning (fuel cut)

For the most cracks this is an old know issue but for some newbies a very
important one :

The stock boost gauge does NOT measure any pressure in the manifold ! The more
it is a voltage sent my the ECU that is calculated upon air flow and the
injector opening time. With the stock system, the thing is accurate and works
well even with some mods. But it is slow, damn slow and doesnt show any peak
values that may occur in an overboost situation.

Now, if someone increases boost over 1 bar we know he's running in danger of
fuel cut. This is initiated either by knock or a too high calculated value out
of the variables. Here, the altitude may play a rule as well as the dense of the
air. This is also the cause why some see a higher boost on the meter as it
really is.

The problem increases even more with a fuel controller as this device alters the
air flow frequency sent to the ECU and therefore the ting calculates a wrong
boost ! With my current system I see a difference if 3 psi ! Now, if one thinks
that a fuel controller is helping to get rid of the fuel cut is WRONG ! If you
still have the stock fuel system and just want to richen the top end to be able
to run more boost, will run into fuel cut EARLIER ! This, because the calculated
value is too high and the ECU thinks that there is something really wrong.

Therefore, the only good way when increasing boost is to install an aftermarket
boost meter. Also, the only way to get rid of the fuel cut is to install larger
injectors together with a fuel controller.

Happy boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:15:42 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)

Hi all,
    Well, things were going great with all my upgrades BUT now something has
happened with my boost situation.  I was on my way to the rescheduled NOPI
drag wars this past Saturday October 2nd.  On my way, a Corvette ZR-1 was
tailing me real Closely; so I thought that I should have some fun before I
got to the track (and gave me a chance to also fine tune my boost controller,
fuel controller & monitor my EGT's).  And I figured to rest the car when I
finally arrived at the track to race.
    I floored the gas pedal and started pulling on the ZR-1 w/ WOT (Wide Open
Throttle); then I would let off on the gas and let him catch up; we smiled at
each other and we confirmed our appreciation of each other's Super cars.  So
we continued this high speed freeway game for about 10 minutes which allowed
me to monitor all my readings (boost, EGT, Super AFC, etc.); All of a Sudden
after WOT and letting off on the gas pedal and getting back to flooring it
again, I HAD NO BOOST!!!!!  ARGHHHHHHHHHHHh.......I don't believe this!!!!   
So I figured I blew a hose somewhere (even though I did NOT hear anything
pop) & pulled over on the shoulder of the freeway to check everything out!  
But I never heard a "popping" sound from a possible blown y-pipe???  I found
nothing wrong!!   All hoses/clamps were tight!  Checked the bottom of the car
by the front intercoolers as well.
    I continued to the track (since I was only 15 minutes away) and the car
ran smoothly!!!!  Like driving a NON-Turbo car.   I arrived at the track and
with the assistance of Jack Tertadian (Thanks again, Jack!!)  we checked
everything out and could not find anything wrong either; we must have spent
30-45 minutes trying to find a loose hose.  So I am really depressed at this
point since I was unable to race and was looking forward to some mid 12 sec.
(or faster) runs.   I went back home and double checked everything again.
    My buddy at the Mitsubishi dealership tried to help me out yesterday; We
checked everything out again;    We checked all of the following on my car:
        - Apex'i Sequential Blow off Valve to see if it was stuck open (it
was fine)
    - All hoses for cracks or if they are loose (they are fine - besides the
car would       run rough if one of the hoses were cracked or loose)
    -Checked both turbos' wastegate actuators to see if they were stuck open
(they       were fine)
    -Checked spark plug's condition (nothing wrong)
    -The front turbo is fine; we were able to freely spin the turbine fins
and there was       no play within the bearings.  (So IF the rear turbo is
problematic; I should           be able to get some minimal boost with the
healthy front turbo but that's not      the case - I actually have NO
BOOST!!!!)
    -If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
some                minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.
    -I definitely have vacuum; but no boost; Cannot get past 0 psi.
My buddy (mechanic at Mitsubishi) promised to read up on the manual to figure
out what else may be wrong that we may have missed to check.
 
We also observed another problem that we believe is NOT related; I have smoke
coming out of my exhaust pipes (definitely oil burning although the color is
very light but definitely NOT antifreeze); smokes only at low RPM's and only
after the car gets hot; most evident when car comes to a stop or standing
still/ bumper to bumper traffic jams......periodic smoke....I was thinking
maybe my Super AFC is set too rich which may be causing all this smoke at
lower RPM's?????  NO smoke at higher RPM's observed.
 
Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4  (too many mods to list)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:29:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Stock boost on 97 VR4

Can someone let me know what the stock boost is on these babies? Also when
can I find the specs for the car - are they in the owner's manual? Looking
for stock tire size, etc.

mb



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:46:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Transfer case/Safety recalls for 97 VR4/Fubar!?

Are there any safety recalls for the 97 VR4? I looked at the recalls page,
and didn't find anything, but all this talk has got me worried. I'm going
to do my hi-speed run soon!

mb

PS What does Fubar mean?



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:54:21 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)

In a message dated 10/5/99 9:49:01 AM Central Daylight Time,
MLandis@casham.com writes:

<< While no clues about your boost problem, my '92 SL (na) was exhibiting
 identical "smoke" behaviour prior to the unscheduled (water pump seized,
 etc., etc., etc.) overhaul I recently performed.  Would smoke like crazy
 after sitting at a long light, train crossing, slow fast-food drive-thru,
 etc., but no smoke at driving speed.  I'm pretty sure that my problem was
 caused by worn valve seals.  Shortly before a couple of oil changes, I'd add
 a quart of ATF, and the smoking would go away. (The dipstick was reading 1
 qt low - this was my first clue.)  ATF causes the rubber seals to swell
 some, thereby ending the blowby and smoking.  You don't want to run ATF for
 extended periods, but for a one or two day test under mild driving
 conditions (you do remember those, don't you? ;-)  ) it would probably be
 OK.  Ask your mechanic buddy for further counsel on this.  How many miles on
 the car?  Any idea if running higher boost accelerates valve seal wear?
 Replacing the valve seals should not be a real big deal if this is your
 problem - and certainly easier than rings and valves...
 
 Anyway, wish you luck with all that ails you.
 
 Michael >>

Thanks, Michael......My buddy and I already thought about that it may be the
valve stem seals; and now you have confirmed it for me.....I will try your
suggestions.....truly appreciate your advice.  Thanks....Ahmed.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 17:01:54 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke

Hi

Sometimes when  I overboosted (before water injection) my Celica GT-4 the
ECU jumped into some safety program and the car didn't produce any boost at
all. The interesting thing is that the ECU controlled both boost and fuel so
the car ran super rich (smoked) and produced 0 psi boost. The solution was
to disconnect the battery and just let it sit for 10 minutes, after that
everything was back to normal.

Good luck

Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 11:04:39 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)

Hi Al,

)-:)   You probably lost the little turbine wheel on the hot side.
That's what happened to my rear turbo at Raod Atlanta last Fall.  The
wheel on the cool side would turn freely, but there was no wheel on the
hot side.  The front turbo was fine.  I'll send you a .jpg if I can find
it.  If you install replacement turbos yourself, let me know as I'm a
permanent member of the DIRTY FINGERNAILS CLUB.

You can plug one of the hoses going into the 'Y" pipe and see if you get
some boost and then plug the other and tru again.   That will tell you
which turbo is blown.

Be of good cheer
John

TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:
[snip]
> after WOT and letting off on the gas pedal and getting back to flooring it
> again, I HAD NO BOOST!!!!!  ARGHHHHHHHHHHHh.......I don't believe this!!!!
>     -The front turbo is fine; we were able to freely spin the turbine fins
> and there was       no play within the bearings.  (So IF the rear turbo is
> problematic; I should           be able to get some minimal boost with the
> healthy front turbo but that's not      the case - I actually have NO
> BOOST!!!!)
>
> Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!
>
> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4  (too many mods to list)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 11:12:18 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock boost on 97 VR4

In a message dated 10/5/99 9:31:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu writes:

<< Can someone let me know what the stock boost is on these babies? Also when
 can I find the specs for the car - are they in the owner's manual? Looking
 for stock tire size, etc.
 
 mb
  >>

I believe stock psi boost level for '97 is 12psi.  specs of the car should be
in owner's manual and some maybe inside your door jam area.....good luck......

Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 17:14:19 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)

Stupid question : no boost, even nothing noticeable, or just not seen on the
meter ?

>     -If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
> some                minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.

Why not disconnecting the boost controller hose that goes to the wastegates ?
Then do an easy "max boost" run but not WOT. Just check if boost rises very high
and do not overboost it it works.

>     -I definitely have vacuum; but no boost; Cannot get past 0 psi.

How much vacuum at idle ?

> still/ bumper to bumper traffic jams......periodic smoke....I was thinking
> maybe my Super AFC is set too rich which may be causing all this smoke at
> lower RPM's?????  NO smoke at higher RPM's observed.

Yes, too rich ! What is your O2 sensor reading at WOT or fast accellerating ?

> Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!

- - check O2 sensors
- - check for losen throttle cable
- - check TPS voltage
- - IDC% ?
- - way too rich ???

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 11:25:39 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)

In a message dated 10/5/99 10:16:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
robby@swissonline.ch writes:

<< Stupid question : no boost, even nothing noticeable, or just not seen on
the
 meter ?
 
 >     -If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
 > some                minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.
 
 Why not disconnecting the boost controller hose that goes to the wastegates ?
 Then do an easy "max boost" run but not WOT. Just check if boost rises very
high
 and do not overboost it it works.
 
 >     -I definitely have vacuum; but no boost; Cannot get past 0 psi.
 
 How much vacuum at idle ?
 
 > still/ bumper to bumper traffic jams......periodic smoke....I was thinking
 > maybe my Super AFC is set too rich which may be causing all this smoke at
 > lower RPM's?????  NO smoke at higher RPM's observed.
 
 Yes, too rich ! What is your O2 sensor reading at WOT or fast accellerating ?
 
 > Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!
 
 - check O2 sensors
 - check for losen throttle cable
 - check TPS voltage
 - IDC% ?
 - way too rich ???
 
 Hope this helps,
 Roger
 93'3000GT TT >>


Hello Roger.....not at all a stupid question;  I just simply do not get
anything above 0 psi on my boost gauge; but I can hear the turbos trying to
spool up.....

Jack Tertadian and I already tried disconnecting the hose on the boost
controller for the wastegates; went for a test run to see if there was any
boost build up -- NOTHING....still NO BOOST......

Vacuum at idle is about -20 psi (somewhere around there); then when given a
little throttle....will climb to 0 psi......but nothing farther.

I will look into my O2 sensor readings to check for richness.....haven't had
a chance yet.....

Thank you.......
Ahmed.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 17:27:46 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke

> Sometimes when  I overboosted (before water injection) my Celica GT-4 the
> ECU jumped into some safety program and the car didn't produce any boost at
> all.

Mikael is absolutely right and our cars do absolutely the same. Although, first
you should run into fuel cut but with we do not know the mods you have ;-)

> The interesting thing is that the ECU controlled both boost and fuel so
> the car ran super rich (smoked) and produced 0 psi boost. The solution was
> to disconnect the battery and just let it sit for 10 minutes

Also our ECU sets the mixture to damn rich when this situation occurs. Our ECU
then goes out of the emergency program if the behaviour is back to normal over a
specific time. Also, the check engine light goes on at this situation and clears
if the ECU is back on the good side .... I know because I already went through
the whole procedure :(

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:33:16 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

> > but calls for the valve to essentially replace the stock solenoid.
> I do not recommend this as you'll see less performance then.

You want to replace the stock solenoid with the Hallman connected (or any other boost controller for that matter).  The solenoid bleeds off boost pressure, you are better off with that pressure going into the motor (no matter how insignificant it is).  The other thing you gain by getting rid of it, is you allow the Hallman valve (or any other controller) to be the only thing controlling the wastegates - so it can do its job a lot more precisely.  If you leave the solenoid hooked up you will actually induce boost spikes or waviness in the boost level.

> > The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold AND one
> > vac line out of the Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.
>
> Usually, a bleeder valve simply bleeds pressure to the air.
> The Hallman design may need another feeder line to close the
> valve when boost rises. What manual are you refering to and
> do oyu say that BOTH lines lead to the H connector ?

Hallman isn't a bleeder valve - its a pressure restriction type valve.  It has two hoses and the valve in the middle - the input end goes to manifold pressure and the other goes to the wastegate actuators.

> > Should I cap the Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap
> > the line from the manifold?  After that, I'll just tee the
> > actuator lines on the bled side.

> And why should any of them be capped ? Makes no sense to me :)

Tee the main line going to the Hallman into the line that feeds the compressor bypass valve.  It should be the large hose coming off the top of the throttle body towards the front (terminates on the CBV under the MAF).  Using this for the signal line is best because it will close the wastegates when you let off the throttle.  Cap off the old boost feed line on the Y-pipe.  Get rid of the H-connector and just put a 3-way Tee in there - one hose to each wastegate hose and one from the Hallman.  If your Hallman has the small hose branching off the wastegate side, just tie wrap it to something near the valve.  This helps the wastegates close again after the valve stops feeding the wastegates boost pressure.  There's a restriction ring in the hose, make sure that stays in there.

> Also don't forget a good boost gauge ! The Hallman bleeder is
> not that fast and may cause overboost that cannot be seen by
> the stock gauge.  This is maybe why they say to remove the
> stock boost solenoid ...

The idea that the Hallman valve causes overboost is based on the incorrect assumption that it is a bleeder-type valve.  It is not.  You should hit your boost target dead-on and it should stay there until your turbos run out of flow at higher RPM's.  Roger is VERY correct in recommending a boost gauge though.  Don't even hook the Hallman up if you don't have an aftermarket gauge.  If the controller is set too high, you'll overboost big-time.

Here's a crummy diagram, but it should help you figure out what I mean.

Tee to CBV line--------[XXXX]-|   <- Hallman
                         ||
                         ||
            To air-------+|
                         ||
                         ||
                   To wastegates

Don't forget that the Hallman works in reverse of a bleeder valve - turning out the screw makes less boost and turning it in makes more boost.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 10:37:40 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke

To test and see if the ECU is the problem then just disconnect the neg from the battery.  That will solve the ECU question, I would still look at the rear turbo as the source of the problem.

MCSE/ASE     

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 17:43:01 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)

> Hello Roger.....not at all a stupid question;  I just simply do not get
> anything above 0 psi on my boost gauge; but I can hear the turbos trying to
> spool up.....

Good sign to be able to hear the turbos :)

> Jack Tertadian and I already tried disconnecting the hose on the boost
> controller for the wastegates; went for a test run to see if there was any
> boost build up -- NOTHING....still NO BOOST......

Umpf, if there is NOTHING that controls the wastegates (i.e. staying closed) and
you're not getting ANY boost .... but they spool up ??? Strange ! What about a
clogged exhaust / pre-cat / fuel filter (nahh, would cause hesitation)

> Vacuum at idle is about -20 psi (somewhere around there); then when given a
> little throttle....will climb to 0 psi......but nothing farther.

Can you rev it up ? Checked the throttle cable ?? Idle vaccum is good so far :)

> I will look into my O2 sensor readings to check for richness.....haven't had
> a chance yet.....

Let us know.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:56:36 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case/Safety recalls for 97 VR4/Fubar!?

FUBAR:
Fouled (or similar-meaning word that begins with an "F")
Up
Beyond
All
Repair (or "Recognition", depending on context)

Also, SNAFU:
Situation
Normal
All
Fouled (or similar-meaning word that begins with an "F")
Up

On 5 Oct 99, at 10:46, Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> PS What does Fubar mean?
>
Dennis Moore
stealth@quixnet.net
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 18:21:38 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

> Hallman isn't a bleeder valve - its a pressure restriction type valve.

Big <snip>

Good info, and I learnt some more stuff :)

> Tee to CBV line--------[XXXX]-|   <- Hallman
>                          ||
>                          ||
>             To air-------+|
>                          ||
>                          ||
>                    To wastegates

What I currently don't understand is the "To air" ... doesn't this "bleed"
pressure/air out of the wastegate line ?

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 12:18:19 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

> > Tee to CBV line--------[XXXX]-|   <- Hallman
> >                          ||
> >                          ||
> >             To air-------+|
> >                          ||
> >                          ||
> >                    To wastegates
>
> What I currently don't understand is the "To air" ... doesn't
> this "bleed" pressure/air out of the wastegate line ?

Yes, it does bleed a very small amount out.  The hose is something like 1/16" hose and there is a brass restrictor plug in there with a very small hole (maybe 1/32").  This is just to help equalize pressure when the wastegate wants to close, similar to what the second solenoid does in the Blitz DSBC.  For comparison, the hose feeding the wastegates is more like 1/4" line with no restriction to the wastegates.  The flow loss through the atmosphere line is very small in comparison to what a "typical" bleeder valve does.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 12:45:18 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock boost on 97 VR4

12 psi. Specs are in the manual.

Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon

Mike Baldwin wrote:

> Can someone let me know what the stock boost is on these babies? Also when
> can I find the specs for the car - are they in the owner's manual? Looking
> for stock tire size, etc.
>
> mb
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 20:25:58 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience

Today I took my Stealth to a local Mitsu dealer to have them
investigate a "swish-swish" sound I've been hearing from the left-front
wheel in tight right-handers.  Fearing wheel bearings or a worn CV-joint
(try translating THAT!), it turns out the noise is caused by the tire
(and sometimes the wheel, apparently) rubbing against the strut.  They
tell me the same is happening on the right front wheel as well, but to a
lesser degree.  Isn't that odd?  These wheels are STOCK!  The tire size
is also stock, and while I'm aware that tire size can vary among
manufacturers, the stock tires were also Michelins.  Pretty strange that
this sort of problem would appear at 74+k miles, and I'm not quite sure
what to do about it.  It isn't rubbing enough to cause any damage, but I
don't like the noise (it's enough that I have lifter tick, bad bearings
in an accessory, a squeaking sound when the engine is cold, the infamous
hooting intake resonance (when the BOV is not installed), noisy
right-rear brakes, a rattle in the driver's door when the window is
rolled up too tight, and a squeaky driver's seat!).
I also got into a debate with the service manager about the differences
between U.S. and Euro-spec (for those of you who don't know, no Stealths
were ever officially imported/sold in Europe, and of the 3000GT models,
only the VR-4 was sold here).  He told me that today they pulled my pads
and verified that the Euro-spec pads do NOT fit my car, and he refused
to believe that the pads I have on there now are from Roger's Euro-spec
car! ("well, the Swiss cars must be different from the German cars!")
He also told me that he can visually distinguish between the U.S. and
Euro-spec turbos... I thought 9B and 13G used the same housing?  Anyway,
the mechanics seem competent but it will be a challenge to get them to
work on my car with Euro-spec parts if the need ever comes up.
Is there any way to find out EXACTLY what the differences are between
U.S. spec and Euro-spec VR-4/TT cars for each model year?  That would
sure make life a lot easier for those of us on this side of the pond!
TIA...

- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 20:42:24 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost!! Also low RPM smoke.

TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:
>
> Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> << Stupid question : no boost, even nothing noticeable, or just not seen on
> the
>  meter ?
>
> Hello Roger.....not at all a stupid question;  I just simply do not get
> anything above 0 psi on my boost gauge; but I can hear the turbos trying to
> spool up.....

0 psi on the stock gauge, aftermarket gauge, or both?

Remember that the stock gauge is showing you what the ECU _thinks_ is
happening in the manifold.  If it is maxing out at 0, then I'm thinking
Mikael is right about the ECU shutting you down.  Have you tried
following the procedure for resetting the ECU?

If the stock gauge shows boost but the aftermarket gauge doesn't, then I
would think the problem is more serious.

- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:55:49 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: No Boost!! Also low RPM smoke.

Bad stock compressor bypass valve will also produce these symptoms.  You didn't mention if the stock one was still connected.  It also needs a manifold pressure source to hold the valve closed if it is in the loop.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 14:54:07 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Englishtown Raceway 10/10

Anyone going to Englishtown this Sunday?
I'm going but without my car (frown).
Soon, very soon...I won't have to say that.
Arty 91 VR-4
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:49:19 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: upper stress bars?

Does anybody know of a company that makes an upper stress bar for the
3000/stealths?  I've checked the major web sites I know of, and I also
checked with my local import performance shop, and can't find anything.
They have sway-bars available, but no upper stress bar.  Any ideas?

thanks :)

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 14:37:56 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: upper stress bars?

> Does anybody know of a company that makes an upper stress bar for the
> 3000/stealths?  I've checked the major web sites I know of, and I also
> checked with my local import performance shop, and can't find
> anything.
> They have sway-bars available, but no upper stress bar.  Any ideas?

None available because there's nowhere to put them under the hood.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 22:30:00 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience

>  it turns out the noise is caused by the tire
> (and sometimes the wheel, apparently) rubbing against the strut.  They
> tell me the same is happening on the right front wheel as well, but to a
> lesser degree.  Isn't that odd?  These wheels are STOCK!  The tire size
> is also stock, and while I'm aware that tire size can vary among
> manufacturers, the stock tires were also Michelins.  Pretty strange that
> this sort of problem would appear at 74+k miles, and I'm not quite sure
> what to do about it.

The solution is easy ... do a re-alignement (German: Einstellung der
Fahrwerksgeometrie) ! Over the many miles and some driving and more I'm positive
the stuff should be realigned. I had the same on the front after four years,
just before the heavy accident. I changed the tires for the summer and noticed
the inside of the winter tires heavily worn. They found the front alignement on
the drivers side pretty off the settings. The rear were ok. For the alignement,
they should take the figures from a 95'3000GT but it's the same for every year
anyways.

> told me that today they pulled my pads and verified that the Euro-spec pads
> do NOT fit my car, and he refused to believe that the pads I have on there
> now are from Roger's Euro-spec car! ("well, the Swiss cars must be different
> from the German cars!")

Hahahahaha. This was the front brake kit that is sold for DM 150.- at the lokal
Mitsubishi dealer we installed on your car. Even the copper grease comes with a
Mitsu stamp on the package :)) Here we must know that the dealer onyl asks Mitsu
for getting the pads for a specific year and the package shows the diameter of
the rotors. Of course they do not fit and therefore the dealer says NO. They
can't see the caliper is the same. Mitsu here also learned on my car, haha.

> He also told me that he can visually distinguish between the U.S. and
> Euro-spec turbos... I thought 9B and 13G used the same housing?

Yes, but there is a stamped number on the housing where one digit is grinded and
replaced by another digit.

> Is there any way to find out EXACTLY what the differences are between
> U.S. spec and Euro-spec VR-4/TT cars for each model year?  That would
> sure make life a lot easier for those of us on this side of the pond!
> TIA...

You know, there is no way but asking Mitsu USA and Mitsu Europe but they have no
interest to talk with us about this. There is absolutely no problem to identify
parts as just don't mention that you have a Stealth. You'll get everything for a
3000GT (they even told me synchros are available) but nothing for a Stealth.

See you
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 21:45:15 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

> > What I currently don't understand is the "To air" ... doesn't
> > this "bleed" pressure/air out of the wastegate line ?
>
> Yes, it does bleed a very small amount out.

Ok, just wanted to know if there is it is a bleeder system or not.

>  This is just to help equalize pressure when the wastegate wants to close,
>  similar to what the second solenoid does in the Blitz DSBC.

Well, then you have a different DSBC solenoid box. On mine, both solenoids are
parallel and both are doing the same. The output of the valves is a switching
type. When the solenoid is closed the wastegate actuator lines bleed to the air
(both solenoids). I discovered this when I cleaned all the oil out of it after
my "problem" ;-/

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:41:51 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod

> Well, then you have a different DSBC solenoid box. On mine,
> both solenoids are parallel and both are doing the same.
> The output of the valves is a switching type. When the
> solenoid is closed the wastegate actuator lines bleed to
> the air (both solenoids). I discovered this when I
> cleaned all the oil out of it after my "problem" ;-/

I don't have an DSBC, but it was explained to me that the second solenoid was for releasing the pressure from the wastegate line so that the wastegate could close again after the boost lowers.  Maybe I'm thinking of a different controller or I misunderstood.  I have the HKS EVC IV, and have no idea exactly how the black box on it works.  I think we both understand what we mean though.  :-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:12:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: upper stress bars?

No one makes the upper stress bar for our car.. yet..

Brian @ GTPro is working on a carbon fiber hood that
will fit a strut bar... but i think i read in his past
3si post that he had a prototype out for a long time
already.. but i can't confirm that..

Who makes sway bars?? is it for a TT?? I would imagine
puttin a set on a TT whould be a big pain in the a$$..

George
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

- --- "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
wrote:
> Does anybody know of a company that makes an upper
> stress bar for the
> 3000/stealths?  I've checked the major web sites I
> know of, and I also
> checked with my local import performance shop, and
> can't find anything.
> They have sway-bars available, but no upper stress
> bar.  Any ideas?
>
> thanks :)
>
> Latufh fuh U,
> Benson
> benson@2015.com
>
> "-Do you ever have second thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


=====

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