--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #299
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Monday, October 4 1999 Volume 01
: Number
299
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Oct 1999 11:30:47 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
This might seem nit picky or perhaps
even obvious, but I think it is
important to distinguish between EGT and
combustion chamber temperature.
EGT is an indication of combustion chamber
temperature. A "properly"
running engine will have EGTs somewhat lower
than actual combustion
temperatures depending upon where it is
measured. An engine with
exaggerated retarded timing will sometimes
show higher EGTs than what might
normally be considered safe, yet the
combustion temperatures may actually
the same as what may be observed at
"normnal" load conditions without the
retarded timing. This doesn't
necessarily mean the pistons are about to
melt although it should serve as a
warning that the ECU is attempting to
compensate for less than optimal
combustion conditions, usually it is
pulling timing out to the max. If
it can't pull out any more timing but
still might "want" to, then there is a
danger of burning the engine down,
not to mention that power output has
already dropped way off of what is
possible.
Bottom line, run the
correct mixture of fuel for the amount of air (which
relates to boost in the
case of a turbocharged engine) and most importantly
the correct grade of
fuel, and tune timing for optimal power at those
mixtures. Big boost
numbers sound cool for bench racing purposes but will
kill an engine in short
order without adequate combustion conditions (grade
of fuel, amount of fuel,
ability to ignite the mixture, timing and ability
to remove heat from the
combustion chamber for starters).
I suspect that actual cylinder pressure
doesn't become much of an issue
within mechanical limits as long as the fuel
is there in the correct ratio.
Correct timing control is something that
is sorely lacking for aftermakret
goodies, since the Apex'i ITC is not the
safest to use without other
feedback. I suppose a reprogrammed ECU or a
full blown EMS would do the
trick but it'd be nice to have a more affordable
alternative.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I'd have to agree with these
numbers.
>
> What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated
forged pistons, ceramic
> coated combustion chamber, headers and
turbos.
>
> What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's
down? We know water injection.
> But what about timing and
fuel? These should also be considered at the
> levels some of us are
at.
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Oct 1999 14:56:19 -0500
From: ebk@advant.com (Katz, Eric)
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Team3S Digest V1 #298
At 10:56 AM 10/3/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>
>Team3S
Digest Sunday, October 3
1999 Volume 01 : Number
298
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:55:47 EDT
>From: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S:
ETS
>
>Response from Barry, worth reading.
>
>Based on
previous roadracing experience, my experience says these figures
>are
fairly accurate.
>
>Sustained running (more than several seconds) of
an engine above 1650 F will
>definitely take a toll on the engine.
Damage will range from accelerated
>wear to immediate breakdown depending
upon the condition of the engine.
>Repeated running above the safe zone
will definitely lead to premature
>failure at some point in
time.
>
>For roadrace work where you need the engine to last 1350 F
average is
>probably more realistic.
>
>Note that these
temperatures assume no post chamber combustion. It is not
>unusual
to see piston melting temperatures in the exhaust runners of bone
>stock
engines under certain circumstances. Many ECUs will detect
knock
>under load (say on a long uphill grade in top gear) and retard the
timing to
>the max. You may see 1700-1900 F in the exhaust runners
when this condition
>exists. Although this MAY not mean imminent
meltdown it does mean that the
>engine is or has been stressing and not
operating at peak efficiency, likely
>due to inadequate fuel or cooling
for the particular circumstance.
>
>
>Barry
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 2 Oct 1999 08:03:56 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: ETS
>
>Thanks Arty.
>
>Just a
clarification: by "inadequate fuel" I mean grade of fuel
(octane
>rating) as opposed to amount of fuel, although the latter could
cause
>similar symptoms. Insufficient amount fuel is can cause a
lean burn
>situation, also causing unduly high temperatures, which
is different than
>part of the fuel charge burning in the exhaust system
due to
exaggerated
>timing.
>
>
>Barry
>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>> Response from Barry, worth
reading.
>>
>
>
><snipped>
>
>>
exists. Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does
>>
mean that the
>> engine is or has been stressing and not operating at
peak
>> efficiency, likely
>> due to inadequate fuel or
cooling for the particular circumstance.
>>
>>
>>
Barry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 02 Oct 1999 12:01:41 -0600
>From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>Subject:
Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>Update of my Getrag transfer
case woes:
>
>well, I think I might have one for the record
books.. I'm sure many of you
>have seen worse, but keep in mind that
I drove my car to the shop with no
>idea of how bad it really
was..
>
>http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/
>
>(I
just made this page, so there's not much there.. click on the
Getrag
link)
>
>my pics aren't quite as good as Mikaels, but I'll
try to take some better
>ones next week..
>
>btw, a huge
thank you to the people expressing concern for safety regarding
>the
possibility of a lock-up.. I think a probably only had a couple more
>miles left before this was likely.. There was truly no warning
other than
>the whine..
>
>for what it's worth, it seems like
the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
>same.. I didn't take the time
to get the numbers from the bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the
case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a
number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to
the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91
and 446.0.0710.90
>
>unfortunately for me, this isn't going to be a
simple bearing and seal
>replacement, but it sure looks like Mikaels
instructions would work for
>anyone that doesn't have gear, case or spline
damage..
>
>that's all for now..
>
>Dave
>95
(waiting for an organ donor) VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 2 Oct 1999 13:02:59 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>The 93.5 and on transfer
cases are the same. They are easily identified by
>the cast iron
case. Earlier models had an aluminum case. Also, the
spline
>counts vary.
>
>
>Barry
>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>
><snip>
>
>for what
it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be
the
>same.. I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the
bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone
wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts
to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to the case), but here are the
middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91 and
446.0.0710.90
>
><snip>
>
>Dave
>95 (waiting
for an organ donor) VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sun, 3 Oct 1999 12:59:35 -0500
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
>
>I'd have to agree
with these numbers.
>
>What if you throw in better valves, ceramic
coated forged pistons, ceramic
>coated combustion chamber, headers and
turbos.
>
>What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's
down? We know water injection.
>But what about timing and
fuel? These should also be considered at the
>levels some of us are
at.
>
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
>Sent: Saturday,
October 02, 1999 9:15 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.net
>Cc: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S: EGT maximum
limits - Agree/disagree
>
>* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust
Manifold, prior to the turbo.
>Add 150F degrees if probe is after the
turbo. 250F if probe in
>downpipe/collector.
>
>Celsius to
Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
>Multiply Celsius degrees by
9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
>Stock motor &
pistons
>Celsius = Fahrenheit
> 950 =
1742 PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
>
925 = 1700 Getting damn close
>
900 = 1652 About the maximum limit - unless
racing
> 875 = 1607 or less No
problems...
>
>I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for
sustained highway speed.
>
>These are the numbers I've been using.
Any more current information
>available?
>
>Thanks
>Arty
91 VR-4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>End
of Team3S Digest V1 #298
>****************************
>
>For
unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Oct 1999 17:14:26 -0400
From: dgkessler@netexp.com (Kessler,
D.)
Subject: Team3S: Best brake fluid
I plan on changing my brake
fluid in my 1993 R/T TT and wondered what
would be the best to use. I
don't race, just street driving and fast
corners.
Don
3si #
152
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Oct 1999 19:56:19 -0500
From: ebk@advant.com (Katz, Eric)
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Team3S Digest V1 #298
At 10:56 AM 10/3/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>
>Team3S
Digest Sunday, October 3
1999 Volume 01 : Number
298
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:55:47 EDT
>From: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S:
ETS
>
>Response from Barry, worth reading.
>
>Based on
previous roadracing experience, my experience says these figures
>are
fairly accurate.
>
>Sustained running (more than several seconds) of
an engine above 1650 F will
>definitely take a toll on the engine.
Damage will range from accelerated
>wear to immediate breakdown depending
upon the condition of the engine.
>Repeated running above the safe zone
will definitely lead to premature
>failure at some point in
time.
>
>For roadrace work where you need the engine to last 1350 F
average is
>probably more realistic.
>
>Note that these
temperatures assume no post chamber combustion. It is not
>unusual
to see piston melting temperatures in the exhaust runners of bone
>stock
engines under certain circumstances. Many ECUs will detect
knock
>under load (say on a long uphill grade in top gear) and retard the
timing to
>the max. You may see 1700-1900 F in the exhaust runners
when this condition
>exists. Although this MAY not mean imminent
meltdown it does mean that the
>engine is or has been stressing and not
operating at peak efficiency, likely
>due to inadequate fuel or cooling
for the particular circumstance.
>
>
>Barry
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 2 Oct 1999 08:03:56 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: ETS
>
>Thanks Arty.
>
>Just a
clarification: by "inadequate fuel" I mean grade of fuel
(octane
>rating) as opposed to amount of fuel, although the latter could
cause
>similar symptoms. Insufficient amount fuel is can cause a
lean burn
>situation, also causing unduly high temperatures, which
is different than
>part of the fuel charge burning in the exhaust system
due to
exaggerated
>timing.
>
>
>Barry
>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>> Response from Barry, worth
reading.
>>
>
>
><snipped>
>
>>
exists. Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does
>>
mean that the
>> engine is or has been stressing and not operating at
peak
>> efficiency, likely
>> due to inadequate fuel or
cooling for the particular circumstance.
>>
>>
>>
Barry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 02 Oct 1999 12:01:41 -0600
>From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>Subject:
Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>Update of my Getrag transfer
case woes:
>
>well, I think I might have one for the record
books.. I'm sure many of you
>have seen worse, but keep in mind that
I drove my car to the shop with no
>idea of how bad it really
was..
>
>http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/
>
>(I
just made this page, so there's not much there.. click on the
Getrag
link)
>
>my pics aren't quite as good as Mikaels, but I'll
try to take some better
>ones next week..
>
>btw, a huge
thank you to the people expressing concern for safety regarding
>the
possibility of a lock-up.. I think a probably only had a couple more
>miles left before this was likely.. There was truly no warning
other than
>the whine..
>
>for what it's worth, it seems like
the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
>same.. I didn't take the time
to get the numbers from the bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the
case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a
number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to
the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91
and 446.0.0710.90
>
>unfortunately for me, this isn't going to be a
simple bearing and seal
>replacement, but it sure looks like Mikaels
instructions would work for
>anyone that doesn't have gear, case or spline
damage..
>
>that's all for now..
>
>Dave
>95
(waiting for an organ donor) VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sat, 2 Oct 1999 13:02:59 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>The 93.5 and on transfer
cases are the same. They are easily identified by
>the cast iron
case. Earlier models had an aluminum case. Also, the
spline
>counts vary.
>
>
>Barry
>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>
><snip>
>
>for what
it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be
the
>same.. I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the
bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone
wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts
to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to the case), but here are the
middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91 and
446.0.0710.90
>
><snip>
>
>Dave
>95 (waiting
for an organ donor) VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:
Sun, 3 Oct 1999 12:59:35 -0500
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
>
>I'd have to agree
with these numbers.
>
>What if you throw in better valves, ceramic
coated forged pistons, ceramic
>coated combustion chamber, headers and
turbos.
>
>What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's
down? We know water injection.
>But what about timing and
fuel? These should also be considered at the
>levels some of us are
at.
>
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
>Sent: Saturday,
October 02, 1999 9:15 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.net
>Cc: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S: EGT maximum
limits - Agree/disagree
>
>* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust
Manifold, prior to the turbo.
>Add 150F degrees if probe is after the
turbo. 250F if probe in
>downpipe/collector.
>
>Celsius to
Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
>Multiply Celsius degrees by
9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
>Stock motor &
pistons
>Celsius = Fahrenheit
> 950 =
1742 PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
>
925 = 1700 Getting damn close
>
900 = 1652 About the maximum limit - unless
racing
> 875 = 1607 or less No
problems...
>
>I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for
sustained highway speed.
>
>These are the numbers I've been using.
Any more current information
>available?
>
>Thanks
>Arty
91 VR-4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>End
of Team3S Digest V1 #298
>****************************
>
>For
unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 3 Oct 1998 19:30:12 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Best brake fluid
So what you're really asking for is opinions...
I
have had good luck with ATR Super Blue, $9.95 from OG racing. So far
only
street, but I will do my first road course next weekend so I'll find out
how
good it really is.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
60-0 really
fast
> I plan on changing my brake fluid in my 1993 R/T TT
and wondered what
> would be the best to use. I don't race, just
street driving and fast
> corners.
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Oct 1999 23:58:45 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
Unfortunately, my setup
doesn't feature an EGT yet so my assumptions and
findings are not based on
experience.
This weekend I made my final tune ins for another air/fuel
control (more
information soon). I made a lot runs with different fuel
settings (all at
1.00 - 1.10kg/cm2) and recorded all of them. First, my aim
was to run a rich
condition under high boost, say around 0.88V of the O2
sensors. The result
at this voltage was a lot of knock starting at 4800 what
resulted in the
timing retarded. But knock went not away and the timing got
retarded even
more until knock didn't rose anymore. The logs shows that the
timing is
pretty well advanced and just before the knock it was at 40°. The
ECU took
it then back to 36° but knock increased a little bit more. Not
enough as the
timing came back another degree.
At this point the O2
sensor voltage got lowered, indicating a leaner (only a
little) situation
during the retarded timing. I'm pretty sure, and EGT meter
had showed a
higher temp at this point too.
On turbo engines running at higher boost
than the engine was designed for
the pressure infront of the turbo may
increase to a high than good reading.
This enhanced backpressure also causes
the EGT to rise. Therefore the
combustion temperature may be lower than the
temps measured infront the
turbo. But this indication shows a danger because
this high gases may be
pushed back into the combustion chamber causing a
short but heavy lean
condition. I'm pretty sure, no EGT nor O2 sensor may be
able to read this
condition :-( But the ECU does if this situation causes
knock ... well it
normally would ... or not ?? Our ECU has the ability to
"learn" what
cylinder causes knock. Also it is able to disable the injector
and ignition
of this specific cylinder and this is called ... fuel cut !
Therefore, if FC
is initiated onyl for 1 cyl we'd loose 1/6 of the power for
a short time but
if this appears on 4 cyls we may really speak of
theeth-danger fuel cut.
> Bottom line, run the correct mixture of fuel
for the amount of air (which
> relates to boost in the case of a
turbocharged engine) and most
importantly
> the correct grade of fuel,
and tune timing for optimal power at those
> mixtures.
Barry is
very right here and my logs really show that running 93 octane at 1
bar of
boost is the point where the timing already got retarded. Only a
little, but
knock is enough to steal some of the timing away.
> Big boost numbers
sound cool for bench racing purposes but will
> kill an engine in short
order without adequate combustion conditions
(grade
> of fuel, amount
of fuel, ability to ignite the mixture, timing and ability
> to remove
heat from the combustion chamber for starters).
I totally agree here too.
You remember the plug gap stuff ? Why do we have
to reduce the gap of the
plugs when running higher boost ? Is this because
the spark cannot travel
well through the mixture (that is still the at right
rich value) ? I've
noticed this "hesitation" again at around 6000 on the
dyno and this caused a
small valley in the power curve. The sound was
noticeable but ... no knock
measured by the ECU !!! Therefore, the problem
doesn't come from detonation
as this would cause knock. Therefore, the only
thing I can think of is that
the fuel in the chamber was not burnt in this
cycle. As a result of this the
fuel went out to the exhaust manifold and due
to the high pressure and
temperatures, got ignited ... causing the sound.
But I doubt, as this
"backfiring" would sound more troublelike and not only
like a hesitation. I
therefore think that fuel was sent out through the
whole exhaust then. The
fuel smelling drops on the dyno ground may prove
this.
Also, as Mike from
Germany came down for the dyno day with his car and he
and Jim had some fast
rides on the Autobahn, he noticed pretty high EGTs.
After regapping the plugs
from one to the other run he then saw lower
reading on the way back
home.
> I suspect that actual cylinder pressure doesn't become much of
an issue
> within mechanical limits as long as the fuel is there in the
correct
ratio.
We all know that richen the mixture may steal some
power but lowers knock.
If running 93 RON (98 ROZ) at 1 bar and a lower plug
gap I'm very positive
that NOT the whole fuel got burnt ! Therefore the rest
is used to cool the
chamber, to lower the temperature. I'd then would say
that the EGTs are also
lower due to this. Lowering the chambers temperature
with a WIS is a better
idea as the mixture can be leaner. I activated thw WI
and indeed got the
same low knock amount even with leaner readings. And this
is why every WI
user should tune in the system either with a real time knock
sensor or a
good EGT meter, maybe with peak hold.
> Correct timing
control is something that is sorely lacking for aftermakret
> goodies,
since the Apex'i ITC is not the safest to use without other
>
feedback. I suppose a reprogrammed ECU or a full blown EMS would do
the
> trick but it'd be nice to have a more affordable
alternative.
I must say that our ECU is doing a good job here. IMHO, a
timing advance of
36 - 40° between 5000 and 7000 rpm is pretty good and the
ECU acts quickly
if there is a possible problem. A Haltech system is a good
solution although
there is definitively a lot of work to do to get it running
properly. The
ITC is like the AFC not a real good solution as it is ONLY rpm
based. My
logs show that there is different load in the gears and knock for
an example
may appear not in second but in third and on another run in first
but not
second. Our ECU is taken care of this pretty good.
> >
What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated forged
pistons,
ceramic
> > coated combustion chamber, headers and
turbos.
This is like you double the steel plates on a tank to avoid
bigger bullets.
This will help you to survive but the enemy is still out
there :-) The
forged pistons are stronger and withstand more detonation until
they brake.
Total Seal rings withstand higher temperature and let you run
higher boost
with less danger for them to brake. But everything leads again
to a good
mixture and fuel quality (i.e. octane rating). If I'd run these
internals
I'd not be concerned about running higher boost as the more knock
will not
cause more problems with the same bosot. But detonation is already
there and
the timing gets retarded due to this. Finally fuel cut is initiated
to
prevent danage although these internals may withstand it. I know
of
Camaro/Firebird people who lowered the sensitivity of the knock sensor
with
a simple resitor circuit (voltage devider). They did this due to
different
roller rockers, lifters, hotter cam and stonger springs that caused
more
noise, but is this really the way to go ?
Sorry, this was more
EGT-side stuff and I hope to be able to see my EGTs too
soon to able to give
mroe data on what belongs to what.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Oct 1999 21:00:37 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch engagement & disengagement
Hello,
I've been
noticing lately that I get the "thud" noise from the rear of
the car on
clutch engagement and expecially disengagement. Seems to
happen in a
lot of gears, but its definitely more pronounced in lower
gears.
Especially releasing the clutch (pedal in) in 1st.
I remember a
discussion a while back on this type of thing, and the
possible causes were
clutch pedal height (already checked and adjusted),
the driveshaft carrier or
similar bearings, and the whole driveshaft
itself. Of course, it could
just be my relatively new clutch (3000
miles) being kind of stiff on
engagement & disengagement. Hopefully
not the getrash acting
up!
Thanks,
Dave Margrave
'91 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Oct 1999 01:36:03 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clutch engagement & disengagement
David Margrave
wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I've been noticing lately that I
get the "thud" noise from the rear of
> the car on clutch engagement and
expecially disengagement. Seems to
> happen in a lot of gears, but
its definitely more pronounced in lower
> gears. Especially
releasing the clutch (pedal in) in 1st.
>
> I remember a discussion
a while back on this type of thing, and the
> possible causes were clutch
pedal height (already checked and adjusted),
> the driveshaft carrier or
similar bearings, and the whole driveshaft
> itself. Of course, it
could just be my relatively new clutch (3000
> miles) being kind of stiff
on engagement & disengagement. Hopefully
> not the getrash
acting up!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Margrave
> '91
R/T TT
I highly doubt this is related, but given my recent experience
with my VR4
transfer case, I decided to change the fluid in my VW GTI
transaxle as well
even though it wasn't exhibiting any "symptoms".. to
my surprise, it was
about a quart low (2 quart capacity) but didn't notice
anything unusal about
the color or other characteristics of the fluid..
I guess I got lucky with
this one..
So here I am thinking I'm going
to be doing a good thing by changing fluid,
not to mention having the
appropriate amount in there.. well, everything
is nice and smooth,
except A) now I get the "thud" when pressing in the
clutch, and B) my second
gear syncro is being much more tempermental now..
the other variable is that
I changed to a thicker viscosity (which of course
there is more of now) right
when it got cold out.. 90W and ~50F.. so maybe
it's just
me.. I suppose it could have been actiing the same way last
winter as
well and I didn't notice..
food for thought anyway..
as I said, I doubt it's related.. hope it wasn't a complete waste
of
bandwidth..
Dave
95 (currently 2WD) VR4
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Oct 1999 09:57:20 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch engagement & disengagement
What did you change your
fluid to? OEM, Redline, other?
On 4 Oct 99, at 1:36, Dave
wrote:
[snip]
>
> I highly doubt this is related, but given my
recent experience with my VR4
> transfer case, I decided to change the
fluid in my VW GTI transaxle as well
[snip]
> So here I am thinking I'm
going to be doing a good thing by changing fluid,
> not to mention having
the appropriate amount in there.. well, everything
> is nice and
smooth, except A) now I get the "thud" when pressing in the
> clutch, and
B) my second gear syncro is being much more tempermental now..
> the other
variable is that I changed to a thicker viscosity (which of
course
[snip]
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Oct 1999 09:34:26 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Best brake fluid
I'm pretty happy with Valvoline's new
synthetic Dot 4 fluid. A large (quart??)
bottle is about $4-$5 and you
can get it at any chain auto store. It has a
boiling point in the low
to mid 500 degrees F. which is close to the expensive
race fluids folks have
mentioned.
I ran this at a road course last March with no ill
effects. I obviously was
braking hard since I went through a fairly new
set of Stillen Metal Matrix pads
in 1/2 a day and probably less than 50 track
miles.
> > I plan on changing my brake fluid in my 1993 R/T TT and
wondered what
> > would be the best to use. I don't race, just
street driving and fast
> > corners.
- --
Drive faster, it
is later than you think!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Oct 1999 09:46:27 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Notice: Team3S List Experiencing delays...
To All,
Our
ISP's server is having some database problems (which Sirius
assures me will
be corrected momentarily), so some posts to the list
are being delayed, and
in one case, 'bounced'. Please post
normally, and let me know
(privately) if there are any problems with
your message appearing on the
list. (Don't forget, NO test emails,
just legitimate posts).
Sorry for the inconvenience, and thanks for
your
patience...
Regards,
Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Oct 1999 12:12:18 +0000
From: Francis Morice <fas3@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Check engine light
I have a question regarding my check engine light
coming on. I own a 96
RT/TT. I've had the pre-cats gutted about 2
months ago and I just
recently put in a test pipe. Other mods so far
are the HKS super mega
flow filter, Magnacore wires, RPS TCC, and a bleeder
valve set at
13.5-14psi. The check engine light came on Saturday and I
reset the ECU
that day and it has stayed off so far. My question is, is
this going to
be recurring thing with the check engine light? Is there
something I
can do to avoid this happening, besides putting the cat back
on?
Thanks,
Francis
96RT/TT
13.13@104.87
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Oct 1999 12:27:05 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Check engine light
I have these things called O2 sensor
simulators for my car. They're little boxes that
kick out the right voltage
for the post-cat O2 sensors. They trick the computer into
thinking the
pre-cats are there and still working properly. I haven't installed
them
yet so I'm not sure if they'll work. I know they work with 96+
Vettes/F-Bodies. I have
heard of alot of people with OBDII and gutted
pre-cats who never have any problems
though.
Also what color is your 96?
Does it have 18"s? When wasit built (It's on the door
jamb
sticker)?
Trevor
96 Firestorm Red R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech (HKS EVC IV@1.00 Bar, Plugs@.034",
Borla, K&N
FIPK)
92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60 in 5.34
Gtech
Francis Morice wrote:
> I have a question regarding my
check engine light coming on. I own a 96
> RT/TT. I've had the
pre-cats gutted about 2 months ago and I just
> recently put in a test
pipe. Other mods so far are the HKS super mega
> flow filter,
Magnacore wires, RPS TCC, and a bleeder valve set at
> 13.5-14psi.
The check engine light came on Saturday and I reset the ECU
> that day and
it has stayed off so far. My question is, is this going to
> be
recurring thing with the check engine light? Is there something I
>
can do to avoid this happening, besides putting the cat back on?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Francis
> 96RT/TT
> 13.13@104.87
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Oct 1999 12:47:27 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tranny fluid (was: clutch engagement &
disengagement)
Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> What did you change
your fluid to? OEM, Redline, other?
>
> On 4 Oct 99, at 1:36,
Dave wrote:
> [snip]
> >
> > I highly doubt this is
related, but given my recent experience with my VR4
> > transfer case,
I decided to change the fluid in my VW GTI transaxle as well
>
[snip]
> > So here I am thinking I'm going to be doing a good thing by
changing fluid,
> > not to mention having the appropriate amount in
there.. well, everything
> > is nice and smooth, except A) now I
get the "thud" when pressing in the
> > clutch, and B) my second gear
syncro is being much more tempermental now..
> > the other variable is
that I changed to a thicker viscosity (which of course
> [snip]
>
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Valvoline
dino.. mostly because that transaxle doesn't get too much abuse
and I
didn't think Redline or other "exotic" $$$ fluids would make any
noticeable
difference.. on the other hand.. sigh.. I may try an 80W in it
next weekend..
Since I don't know where to get Redline locally
(Boulder/Denver area), what
do you all think of the Mobil 1 gear oil?
I swear I remember someone
commenting about it a few months ago, but my
searches in the archives haven't
found anything..
Dave
95 Black
(currently 2WD) VR4
87 Mica Red GTI (always been 2WD) G60
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #299
****************************
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