--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #294
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest Tuesday,
September 28 1999 Volume 01 : Number
294
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:57:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: ie886@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John
T. Christian)
Subject: Team3S: Re: Adventure in braking
Hi
all,
I've found a system that now provides reasonable pad and rotor
life.
Brad Bedell's BIG RED calipers, pads from WMSbrakes@aol.com, Toyota
Supra rotors,
braided SS lines from Goodridge, and Ford DOT 3 fluid.
That combination
had survived 200 track miles and the pads are only half
used--the rotors are
only slightly groved.
The same setup with stock '94 rotors survived 100
track miles and the pads
were more than half used -- the stock rotors were
moderately groved.
The MAJOR difference is the Supra rotors are
DIRECTIONAL. They must
provide much more cooling. Perhaps that's
the most important factor in
extending pad life for our heavy
cars.
Have a set of Hawk HT8 compound pads on order to compare to the KFP
pads.
Off to MidOhio Oct 23 & 24 and then Carolina MotorSport
Park Oct 30 & 31.
Will have to change my EMail address soon.
Keep you posted
Be of good cheer
- --
WARNING ---> This CWRU address will end September 30 in 2
days
Send future EMail to jczoom@iname.com
JCZoooM
'93 Stealth TT Blue almost stock 12.46 @109
MPH 5/97
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 12:56:57 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: FMIS
system.
I saw an advertisement for a Front mount intake system in the
September
Turbo magazine (Page 87). Has anybody tried this type of system?
Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 12:27:16 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More horsepower testing
Hey everyone,
I did a lot of
testing this weekend with the G-tech. There was some
theroies I needed
to test. First of all, I know some of you don't think the
G-tech is a
decent testing device, but I believe the horsepower feature is
somewhat
accuate. Probably + or - 10hp.
My fuel cut point had dropped from
1.50 kg/cm2 to 1.40 after installing the
test pipe and I wanted to see
why. John and I thought that maybe because
the turbos were spooling up
faster, the amount of airflow change so radidly
that it caused the ECU to
cut fuel as a fail safe.
I started with my Blitz set at 35 gain (spool up
speed) and a ratio set at
70 (peak boost). The fuel cut was
experienced at 1.42. here was the rest
of the runs:
35/70
1.42
20/80 1.52
5/100 1.57
1/100 1.60!!
As I
turned the gain down to try and slow the spool up time, the point of
fuel
cut rose. This supports my theory. I was getting a little concerned
for my car's health, so that was enough with the fuel cut issue.
I
wanted to see if racing gas gave any extra horsepower for the same boost
settings. I ran the G-tech in horsepower mode 12 times with the
settings of
10/76. Every run in second gear got a peak of 1.31 or
1.32. The overall
horsepower was 391 at the crank. That was
adding in a 20% drivetrain loss.
This concerned me because earlier I
got 410hp. I must have gotten some time
retard because of the setting
to high. I did experience some hestitaion
during the runs.
Next
I went home and drained all the pump gas and put in 110 leaded racing
gas
(3.3 gallons). I then reset the ECU for 30 minutes and went back
out.
I left the settings the same and did 10 runs. I now got a
crank horsepower
of 420hp. My two thoughts at this point, was either I
purged all the knock
codes out and wasn't getting any retarding with the 110
or the 110 just adds
that much power.
On Sunday I went out again to
test the knock theroy. I was running 92 pump
gas. I turned the
boost down to 10/65. This gave me a peak boost of 1.18
in second
gear. I did 5 runs and got a crank horsepower of 405hp. Hmm,
more than the day before on pump gas. I must not be
knocking.
Next I turned the boost up to 10/67 with a peak boost around
1.21. Did four
runs with a crank horsepower of 410hp. It ran
strong with no hesitation.
Now I turned it up to 10/70 with a peak of
1.25. Did 4 runs. Crank horse
of 426hp. Still no
hesitation.
Turned to 10/72. Peak of 1.28. Did three runs.
Crank horse of 429hp.
At 10/74, peak was 1.32. Did three
runs. Crank horse was 419hp.
Somewhere in the 1.3 range, the knock
must of started to retard the timing,
because the horsepower started to fall
off. At the 10/72 and 10/74 settings
I was getting some
hesitation. Not sure if it was knock or maybe the fuel
system pooping
out. On my Saturday testing I think my car was knocking at
the 10/76
settings pretty bad if I only saw 391 for a horsepower.
I know this is
hard on the car, I'm not that stupid, so don't flame me for
trying
this. My boost peak is around 1.18 with my daily setting of 10/65.
I feel confident that there isn't much knock to worry about
here.
When John gets my knock LED built and installed, we will confirm
this.
Here is the car set up for the testing. 95 Dodge Stealth R/T
TT, HKS super
mega flow, HKS exhaust, test pipe, gutted pre-cats, 1G DSM
BOV, Spearco
Water Injection, Blitz DSBC, Magnecor wires, plugs gapped at
.034.
Tempature was 69 degrees on Saturday, 64 degrees on
Sunday. All tests were
performed on the same flat stretch of
road. G-tech weight was set at 4,000
lbs on Saturday with about 4
gallons of gas. Sunday it was 4,050 lbs. with
16 gallons of gas in the
tank.
whoosh, that was a lot of typing....
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:01:23 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
>Any advise to help me
get through this race would be appreciated.
It is absolutely vital to get
cooling air to the brakes. Even the best pads
won't last without
air.
First, pull the calipers and remove the backing plates from behind
the
rotors (two bolts, I think).
Next, remove the inner front fender
panels.(You'll see how tiny our
intercoolers are)
Both these steps
will help get air into the general vicinity, but the real
problem is that the
calipers are tucked up inside a big fat wheel, so they
don't get any direct
air flow.
So you must run some air directly to the
rotor.
Go to Home Depot and buy two plastic gutter/downspout thingies --
they look
like a big white scoop that goes at the end of a square downspout.
At one
end it's a 2x2 in. square opening, at the other a 2x8 in.
rectangular
scoop. Cut them down to fit over the two openings under
your front valence
(crawl under there, and you'll see 4x6 openings on
both sides of the air
dam. The scoops fit over these openings. ) You may have
to cut the front
part of the scoop in half lengthwise and shorten it
consideraby so it will:
(a) fit up against the bottom of the valence
and protrude only about 1 in.
into the air stream (otherwise, you could lose
it on a curb) and
(b) so the 2x2 square portion will fit nicely up into the
4x6 opening.
A pair of sheet metal shears will cut the plastic
easily.
All this should be self-evident when you have the scoop thingie
in one hand
and are lying on your back looking up at the opening wondering
how the
@#$%$# this big scoop will fit.
Buy 7-8 ft of 2-in. flexible
hose (go to an industrial supply house. Buy
good stuff: cheap heater hose
won't work) and run the hose from the 2x2 in.
square exit of the scoop to the
bottom of the rotor (don't try to go in at
the caliper -- it won't stay
there). You may have to cut a 2x2 in. notch to
make it fit through the fender
well. Don't let the hose hang down, or
you'll rip the sucker right off. Use a
radiator hose clamp or a big tie
wrap to hold the hose on the bottom steering
arm, and point it at the
bottom of the rotor. Leave enough slack so you can
move the wheel lock to
lock without pulling the hose out.
This oughta
get you through the race event.
If you go off into the grass, it'll rip the
scoops off, so stay on the
pavement.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody
stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:37:23 EDT
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Suspension Question
Hello all,
Yup. You
guessed it. I have yet *another* suspension question for youz
guyz.
:)
I took my car to NTB (Nitwits, Twits and Bozos) on Saturday (+Sunday)
for an
alignment and wheel balancing.
After all was said and done, my car
is now pulling to the right, and I get a
little shake at about 70mph.
The
shake, I believe, can probably be attributed to some wheel which has not
been balanced.
However, the pull I cannot understand.
According to the
specs from the alignment rack, the car is in alignment.
The camber,
toe, and caster all seem to be fine.
However, the problem persists....
:(
The vehicle is not canted to one side, nor do I hear any clicking or
thumping noises.
What could possibly be causing this?
I want
to bring it in to a good suspension shop for trouble-shooting, but I
don't
know who to turn to (I'm up here in MA).
Any help would be
appreciated.
Regards,
Dennis
93 Stealth
93 VR-4
chromies
255/40/17 tires
Ground Control suspension
GAB front
struts
______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:59:20 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FMIS system.
I saw this add too, i asked for a brochure and they are
getting back to me
about the fit for a 3000GT 98, I will let you all
know
Edwin
98 3000GT SL
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, September 27, 1999 12:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: FMIS
system.
>I saw an advertisement for a Front mount intake system in
the September
>Turbo magazine (Page 87). Has anybody tried this type of
system?
>
>Matt
>#311
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:56:46 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension Question
Dg B wrote:
> Hello
all,
>
> Yup. You guessed it. I have yet
*another* suspension question for youz
> guyz. :)
>
> I took
my car to NTB (Nitwits, Twits and Bozos) <<SNIP>>
>
> I
want to bring it in to a good suspension shop for trouble-shooting, but
I
> don't know who to turn to (I'm up here in
MA).
>
Dennis,(and others interested)
I
have two things for you. First, I've always had pretty good luck with
FIRESTONE.
They offer(for about $140) a lifetime alignment deal that allows
you to take your car
back to them as much(or as little) as you want. By
the time you take your car bac to
them twice...it's paid for
itself.
The other thing is a little more vague.
There's a company here in St. Lou' that
manufactures the machines that
alignments are done with. Here's their website:
www.hunter.com
Now
while this doesn't do you any good in and of itself, because I'm fairly
sure
you don't want to buy your own alignment rack, they may be able to
help still. Go to
their site and click on "FIND A LOCAL REP".
This will let you search for the local
sales/service guys in your
neck-of-the-woods. You may be able to contact them and ask
for a
recommendation about a shop near your(who has the best training, who that
guy
takes his cars to, etc.) I know, I know...it's a longshot, but I
thought I'd try
anyway.
Fortunately for those of us here in St. louis,
if we get really desparate, we can sign
up to be included in Hunter's
Training program. This means that they use YOUR car to
train people on
and or test out their new equipment. I'm sure that not too many
cars
leave the training facility with a bad alignment(wouldn't put the
company in a very good
light), but I've never tried it. By the time I
found out about the volunteer program I
had already had my "Lifetime"
alignment from Firestone...and like I said...I've had
pretty good
luck.
--
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91
Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 16:08:25 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension
Question
Jeff, that's great advice. Here in NY the dealers get about
$150.00 for one 4
wheel alignment
Arty 91 Vr-4
In a message dated
9/27/99 1:00:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com
writes:
<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Suspension
Question
Date: 9/27/99 1:00:42 PM Pacific Daylight
Time
From: wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com (Jeff
Crabtree)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com
To:
dbretton@hotmail.com (Dg B), stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com)
Dg
B wrote:
> Hello
all,
>
> Yup. You guessed it. I
have yet *another* suspension question for youz
> guyz.
:)
>
> I took my car to NTB (Nitwits, Twits and Bozos)
<<SNIP>>
>
> I want to bring it in to a good
suspension shop for trouble-shooting, but I
> don't know who to turn
to (I'm up here in MA).
>
Dennis,(and others
interested)
I have two things for
you. First, I've always had pretty good luck with
FIRESTONE.
They offer(for about $140) a lifetime alignment deal
that allows you to take
your car
back to them as much(or as little)
as you want. By the time you take your
car bac to
them
twice...it's paid for itself.
-Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 08:17:15 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Will the stock fuel pump handle 15psi ?
The following is a reply
from the local HKS Supplier here
in New Zealand. He suggests replacing
the fuel pump when
running anything above stock pressure, the claim is
that
the car runs lean on any boost (>5%) higher than stock.
Any
comments? Is this true or can I really disregard
it?
Cheers,
Kevin.
> -----Original Message-----
>
Subject: Re: Upgrade Fuel Pump to run at 1.05? (more info)
>
>
Theory is a wonderful thing but harsh reality is an eye opener.
>
>
If I connect a fuel flow gauge to a GTO and apply 14 psi
> pressure to
the fuel pressure regulator compensatory port,
> total flow of fuel system
on all occasions has been in the
> vicinity of 65 - 70 L/hr.
>
>
> Fuel injectors are rated at 100%duty cycle @ 3.0 bar
(Bosch
> standard )
>
> Theoretically 360cc injectors will
flow 415cc @ 4.0 bar fuel
> pressure ( 14.5 psi applied to comp
port)
> ( Square root of ( 4 bar divided by 3 bar )) X 360cc =
415cc
>
> 6 X 415cc = 2494cc/min X 60/1000 = 149L/Hr.
>
> Mitsubishi have never produced a pump capable of this flow at
>
4.0 bar.
>
> Lets do the maths another way.
>
> Lets
say for arguments sake that the output of the Z16 is in
> the vicinity of
400 hp.
>
> 400 X .6 (BSFC) X 10.5 (cc/lb/hp cal) = 2520cc/min
divided by
> 6 = 420cc/min
> = 151.2 L/Hr
>
> When the mathematics from two directions are very similar
>
result then I would call it reasonably conclusive that the
> fuel
requirement is around 150 L/Hr @ 4.0 Bar
>
> My suggestion to the
theory that O2 sensors are showing rich
> is this can be caused by a
multiple of reasons
>
> 1. production closed loop O2 sensors are not
temp compensating.
> 2. WOT conditions are not closed loop
> 3.
Production O2 sensors are incorrectly positioned for WOT
> lambda readings.
> 4. Somebody is
dreaming.
>
> It is so simple to test. Put a fuel pressure gauge on
the car.
> If fuel pressure drops at high RPM and high boost then I
am
> right. If it doesn't then you have the only Mitsubishi fuel
>
pump ever built which will cope with boost levels greater than
> 5% above
stock.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:21:37 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
Hi Mark,
There are
several potential reasons this may be happening.
The first is that
some brake compounds are supposedly not interchangable.
Perhaps the ABEX
Metal Matrix (are these Stillen?) compound is not compatible
with the
stock. The reasoning is that the rotor becomes impregnated with
the
brake compound and when you switch compounds, the materials are not
compatible
and reduce braking force. Did you have the rotors resurfaced
when you installed
the new pads? If you did, it should elimiate this as
a problem.
The second possibility is the brake bedding
process. You are supposed to drive
around on new pads with "light"
braking for a few days of driving to seat the
pads. Then you make a
half dozen or so high speed stops to heat up the pads to
cause outgassing
(elimination of chemicals trapped in the brake compound when
the pads are
manufactured). Also someone recently described an excellent way
to
season the pads by baking them in your outdoor gas BBQ on high for 1/2 an
hour.
Then you turn the BBQ off and let them cool slowly to room temp.
This will
cause the pads to outgas and should increase the life of the
pads. You would
still seat them after installation though. (He
also suggested seasoning new
rotors using the "self cleaning" mode of you
oven -- another great idea).
The third possiblity is that you were
experiencing brake fade because you were
in the middle of outgassing.
When bedding, you are not supposed to let the
brakes cool. You brake,
get back up to speed, then brake again.
When brake bedding is complete,
you should park the car overnight without the
parking brake engaged.
You want the whole rotor to cool evenly and slowly.
If the rotors were
not resurfaced, do this as the first step. Next BBQ the pads
if you
can. Then seat the pads for a few days, and finally bed the pads
with
6-10 high speed stops from 80 down to 20 mph.
Good
luck,
Ken
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" wrote:
>
>
Roadracers,
>
> I bought ABEX pads from AA to prepare for upcoming
road race. They said
> that they were the Metal Matrix pads(whatever
that means) and supposed to be
> real good.
>
> Anyway,
I flushed my brake fluid out last night with some Castrol brake
>
fluid(exceeds dot4). Then, I went out for a little cruise. From
60mph I
> could mash the brakes and get the anti-lock to kick in.
But, when I was up
> at 100mph+ and mashed the brakes I immediately got
brake fade and had a
> tough time slowing her down. I did this three
times(allowing for time to
> cool between attempts) and the last time I
kept on the brakes until I was
> almost stopped and noticed a large cloud
of smoke coming from both front
> brakes. I then drove around for a
while and the brakes seemed to come back.
>
> This bothers me
because I'm going to Brainerd International Raceway(3mi road
> course..1mi
straight) and I don't think that the brakes will hold up to that
> kind of
abuse.
>
> My car is a '91RT/TT with stock brakes all around.
I plan on upgrading my
> rotors and brake lines this winter, but thought
that I could get through
> this race with some good pads and flushing the
system.
>
> I think my problem is that the pads can't handle the
heat. Although, the
> brakes get really spongy when stopping from
these high speeds so maybe it is
> the brake fluid boiling??
>
> I understand that my stock brakes are crummy, but I want to make the
best of
> what I have.
>
> Any advise to help me get through
this race would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
Wendlandt
> '91RT/TT
>
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Mark Wendlandt
Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
> Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager: 612-601-0881
> Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:58:07 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Will the stock fuel pump handle 15psi ?
I'd say so..
...
and as he provided the math, here's ours :
Stock fuel pump : 190 l/hr, at
56psi fuel pressure, the pump flows 33 gal/hr
(125l/hr, in WORST
case)
Fuel pressure at 15psi of boost is about 56psi.
> > If
I connect a fuel flow gauge to a GTO and apply 14 psi
> > pressure to
the fuel pressure regulator compensatory port,
> > total flow of fuel
system on all occasions has been in the
> > vicinity of 65 - 70
L/hr.
Maybe he should do the test again ;-)
> > Fuel
injectors are rated at 100%duty cycle @ 3.0 bar (Bosch
> >
standard )
Sure, hehe
> > Theoretically 360cc injectors will
flow 415cc @ 4.0 bar fuel
> > pressure ( 14.5 psi applied to comp
port)
Exactly, on our cars with 15 psi of boost the injectors are 408cc
at 100%
IDC.
> > ( Square root of ( 4 bar divided by
3 bar )) X 360cc = 415cc
> >
> > 6 X 415cc = 2494cc/min X
60/1000 = 149L/Hr.
> >
> > Mitsubishi have never produced a
pump capable of this flow at
> > 4.0 bar.
No, Denso did
:-)
> > Lets say for arguments sake that the output of the Z16 is
in
> > the vicinity of 400 hp.
> > 400 X .6 (BSFC) X 10.5
(cc/lb/hp cal) = 2520cc/min divided by
> > 6 = 420cc/min
>
> = 151.2 L/Hr
With the pressure and BSFC of 0.55 on our
cars this will result in 138.5
litres/hr
> > When the
mathematics from two directions are very similar
> > result then I
would call it reasonably conclusive that the
> > fuel requirement is
around 150 L/Hr @ 4.0 Bar
Yes, 100% correct :)
> > My
suggestion to the theory that O2 sensors are showing rich
> > is this
can be caused by a multiple of reasons
> >
> > 1. production
closed loop O2 sensors are not temp compensating.
Could be :)
>
> 2. WOT conditions are not closed loop
Of course not ! Otherwise
you'd never have steady O2 sensor readings.
> > 3. Production O2
sensors are incorrectly positioned for WOT
> > lambda
readings.
Where should they be positioned, eh ????
> > 4.
Somebody is dreaming.
Yes, HK$ and their pricing structure.
>
> It is so simple to test. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the car.
> >
If fuel pressure drops at high RPM and high boost then I am
> >
right.
I think some people already did. BTW, I already have a larger
Denso fuel
pump installed (brown cap) and there is absolutely no difference
in just
anything. Of course, I have not yet read fuel pressure (damn I need
an
adapter to the autometer stuff...).
> > If it doesn't then
you have the only Mitsubishi fuel
> > pump ever built which will cope
with boost levels greater than
> > 5% above stock.
Great, it
seems we have :-)
He's absolutely right with everything he writes. But is
this enough to
convince you to get an expensive HK$ fuel pump ? Just get a
Denso pump out
of the Supra TT for maybe 2/3 of the price and you're
done
IMHO, get a fuel pressure gauge and do the test he supposed. Better
: let
them do the test on your car. Then let them install the pump and check
it
back.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 17:17:41 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension Question
Dennis: I may be way off here, but does your
car have 4 wheel steering? If
it does, there are special procedures
that MUST be followed in order to place
the car in proper alignment.
The reason is that the rear wheel is not fixed
and actually steers 30
degrees.
Keep in mind that in the typical 4 wheel alignment where the
rear wheel is
fixed, the front wheels are aligned off of the rear
wheel. Therefore, the
rear wheel is always aligned first.
However, with 4WS, if the mechanic
performing the alignment does not know
how to align a 4WS car, he will not
know how to properly place the rear
wheel into alignment. The result is a
car which appears on the machine
to be aligned but is actually out of
alignment.
I hope I explained
that enough. IF you need any further info, please let me
know.
Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 16:46:25 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suspension Question
> Dennis: I may be way off here, but
does your car have 4
> wheel steering? If it does, there are
special
> procedures that MUST be followed in order to place
> the
car in proper alignment. The reason is that the rear
> wheel is not
fixed and actually steers 30 degrees.
I think that should read 3
degrees. 30 degrees is a little
extreme :-)
Couple mentions in
the latest Turbo Magazine about the three of us that made
the trek to the
Diamond Star Shootout this year. They got my car wrong (I
guess they
thought I was piloting Del's car instead of mine) in the
standings and got
the final run time incorrect, but I guess that's okay.
I've trashed their
magazine a lot in the past, so I wasn't real surprised.
;-)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:57:57 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Will the stock fuel pump handle 15psi ?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent:
Monday, September 27, 1999 1:58 PM
> To: Team3S List
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Will the stock fuel pump handle 15psi ?
> > > Fuel
injectors are rated at 100%duty cycle @ 3.0 bar (Bosch
> > >
standard )
>
> Sure, hehe
Mine are rated at 100% duty cycle
@ 8.0 bar, 13.0 bar, and unfortunately
also at 1.0 bar!
:o
Dave
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:25:42 -0700
From: "Ying Hau Wang" <yhauwang@SoftHome.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
Roadracers,
>I
bought ABEX pads from AA to prepare for upcoming road race. They
said
>that they were the Metal Matrix pads(whatever that means) and
supposed to
be
>real good.
They are semi-metallic pads not good
enough for roadracing events (at least
for me) ... they are more of a high
performance (if you can call them that)
street pad.
I would recommend
to use some race pads like Hawk blues or Portefields R4 or
R4s pads ... other
good pad is the performance friction pad but they don't
last
long
Braided lines improve the pedal feel "A LOT"
For brake fluid
Motul 600 was the best I've used ...
ps: any combination, depending on
your driving will make you brake system
catch on fire ... the best idea is to
upgrade brake system(larger rotors,
pads, brake lines).
-
-Hau
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:44:39 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FMIS system.
I got a call from the company, their smallest FMIS will fit
any 3000GT, but
they do now have the full kit, you will need a performance
part store to
cutom make a mandrel bent hose to run from the MAS to the
FMIS
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, September 27, 1999 12:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: FMIS
system.
>I saw an advertisement for a Front mount intake system in
the September
>Turbo magazine (Page 87). Has anybody tried this type of
system?
>
>Matt
>#311
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:08:52 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Recall on the transfer cases
I saw a few posts about busted/worn
transfer cases. If I'm not mistaken, the
3/S cars (and some other AWD mitsu
cars) were recalled for
inspection/replacement of affected components
(driveshaft yolk, tcase, oil
fill, gaskets, whatever is deemed necessary for
safe operation) along with
the much publicized DSM tcase recall.
The
NHTSA issued this recall about 1 year ago, and if you are the original
owners
you should have gotten notices in the mail. 2nd owners may or may not
get a
notice, but it doesn't matter if there are FIFTY previous owners, it's
a
safety recall, and applies for the LIFE OF THE CAR (forever in my case
:).
This recall will be performed even on modified cars (to a point). If
they
deem that the tcase broke for reasons other than mis-design, then you
are
out of luck (1000$?)
Please do not drive your car if you feel that
your tcase has a problem, two
DSM members have already died directly from
this defect (yes, they were over
the speed limit by about 20mph, but
still).
What may happen if your tcase locks up is, the broken
gears/peices will jam
other things in the case, and cause a sudden and
immediate lockup of all
wheels at whatever speed. This will cause a loss of
control (like having no
ABS, and jamming the brakes with 3x your foot force!
:). This may also
damage the driveline (splines in shafts, u/cv joints,
tires, etc). These
parts should also be covered or atleast
pro-rated.
Vineet Singh
Service Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:55:52 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Recall update (tcase)
I guess I was misinformed... The recall for
the 3/S cars exists, but only
affects the 90-91 built cars (about 4000 of
them). However, if you seem to
have a leak, don't just sit idly by and pay
someone to fix it, send in a
petition to the NHTSA if you hear others having
similar leaks/problems.
I can see from the bottom of my car, that my 92
stealth has a nice leak from
the tcase as well.
Even if I was wrong
about the recall, the safety info I suggested
still
applies!
Thanks!
Vineet Singh
at.dsm.org
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:56:59 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Will the stock fuel pump handle 15psi ?
- --- Roger wrote:
> I
think some people already did. BTW, I already have a larger Denso fuel
>
pump installed (brown cap) and there is absolutely no difference in just
>
anything. Of course, I have not yet read fuel pressure (damn I need an
>
adapter to the autometer stuff...).
>
Roger, contact me if you need
ideas. I installed an autometer 0-100psi
electric fuel pressure gauge
in my car. For lack of adapters from Autometer
I used a Nos fitting for
mounting the sender. Worked great!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 23:40:04 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Removing
honecombs (Was:Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK)
Bob Forrest wrote:
>While
trying to remove them, quite a few folks have
> trashed the MAS honeycomb
to varying degrees. They can be opened
> back up with a pair of
needle-nose or a hemostat, etc. Some of us
> have just removed the
honeycomb entirely, with no noticeable
> negative
effects.
>
I just wanted to throw this out there regarding removing
honeycombs in the
MAS. I may be wrong, but still I want to mention
this:
I was under the impression, from older posts, that removing some or
all of
the honeycombs was not working so well for turbo cars.
I
think it would be a good idea if some people that have tried this on
turbo
cars would post their experiences. I would hate to see people try
this if
truly it doesn't work that well for the turbo
cars.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
so far with intact MAS
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 23:44:05 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need best location to tap into for the Install of EGT gauge.
I just
saw a '97 VR-4 last weekend with an Autometer shift light. He had
a
hard time wiring the thing due to the coil setup. He ended up tapping
into
the ECU wiring harness. Not sure which wire he went after, but if
you check
the service manual you might find one for the
RPMs.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<Ryan.Judd@axon.co.nz>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Sunday, September 26, 1999 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need best location to
tap into for the Install of EGT
gauge.
> also I'm looking to
install a shift light into my 3000gt anyone have a
clue
> where to wire
the coil wire on the gauge to in the engine
bay???
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
> Sent:
Sunday, 26 September 1999 9:09
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: Need best location to tap into for the Install of EGT
>
gauge.
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
Where is the best location to tap into for a GReddy EGT gauge?
I
> would
> like to know what location to tap into for the
best/accurate/precise
> readings: the downpipe? where in particular (or
does it matter?) I mean
> right after the rear or front turbo/after
pre-cats?? Or somewhere on the
> primary pipe side which is closer
to the main cat area? The manifold?
any
> advice would be
greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Ahmed
"AL-Crazy" - '92VR4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 16:48:30 +1200
From: Ryan.Judd@axon.co.nz
Subject: RE:
Removing honecombs (Was:Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK)
not sure about the
3000gt but I know on my Galant VR4 that after removing
the honeycomb the car
would not idle correctly, to fix the problem all I had
to do was add a decent
air filter so the air would travel straight and
evenly past the sensors.
(from what I could gather the honeycomb is just
there to make the air travel
straight)
and it worked fine, not sure if theres any theory behind it put it
appeared
to give the car more mid-rev power.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Oskar [mailto:swede@pclink.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 28
September 1999 4:40
To: Bob Forrest; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Removing honecombs (Was:Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK)
Bob Forrest
wrote:
>While trying to remove them, quite a few folks have
>
trashed the MAS honeycomb to varying degrees. They can be opened
>
back up with a pair of needle-nose or a hemostat, etc. Some of us
>
have just removed the honeycomb entirely, with no noticeable
> negative
effects.
>
I just wanted to throw this out there regarding removing
honeycombs in the
MAS. I may be wrong, but still I want to mention
this:
I was under the impression, from older posts, that removing some or
all of
the honeycombs was not working so well for turbo cars.
I
think it would be a good idea if some people that have tried this on
turbo
cars would post their experiences. I would hate to see people try
this if
truly it doesn't work that well for the turbo
cars.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
so far with intact MAS
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:06:34 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Removing
honecombs (Was:Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK)
The Kharmn-Vrotex stye airmeter
requires relatively non-turbulent airflow to
derive accurate readings, hence
the honeycombs. They work by creating and
measuring little vortices of
air as they flow through the airmeter. If
these vortices are not
properly formed at a factory calibrated rate (which
maps to some specific
airflow) the airmeter reading will be completely
useless to the ECU.
I
personally feel that removing them is an ill-conceived idea, but some
people
swear by it. The honeycombs that straighten the air directly
adjacent
to the transducers and sensors (or whatever they are actually
called) should
definitely not be removed unless other measures are taken to
straighten out
the airflow.
Perrsonally I think the success of honey comb removal is hit
and miss at
best. That is, if your car runs correctly afterwards you
were lucky. I
could be wrong.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> not sure about the 3000gt but I know
on my Galant VR4 that after removing
> the honeycomb the car would not
idle correctly, to fix the
> problem all I had
> to do was add a
decent air filter so the air would travel straight and
> evenly past the
sensors. (from what I could gather the honeycomb is just
> there to make
the air travel straight)
> and it worked fine, not sure if theres any
theory behind it put
> it appeared
> to give the car more mid-rev
power.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:09:15 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: re More Horsepower
Hi Curt;
There's some nice information
in your post, for us to noodle through. I
won't belabor the
high boost
settings, as you have requested, since you obviously know all
about the
dangers inherit in these settings. However, some new subscribers
may not
realize this, so I thought a word of warning might be in
order...anything
over 1 bar (1.00) will have cumulative to rapid effects on
rings (the
higher you set it the more rapid the results) and a rebuild to
replace them
will be inevitable somewhere down the road. If running with
Water Injection,
this may be forestalled as long as the boost is not too
high. You did not
mention what your Spearco was doing in these runs Curt???
I believe Roger had
similar results last year, to those you quote, before
detonation
destroyed his rings. As we all know, stock pistons may also be
effected if
boost settings are inordinate, as they are not forged.
For those
interested, European 4 wheel dyno results indicated that 400+hp
could be
attained with a boost controller set at 1 bar, a K&N,
Magnecores,
and
everything else stock. Stock injectors/pump max out (as we
are reminded in a
recent thread) at anything over 1 bar....but hey, unless
you're shooting for
the moon, 400+ ponies should be sufficient for your
average run of the mill
Joe, or Jim. ;-) It's plenty for
me.
Best
Darc
BTW get your TEAM3S hats before the
supply is exhausted. Going fast!!
Contact Forrest.
- -
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 00:09:46 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Removing
honecombs (Was:Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK)
- ----- Ryan wrote -----
>
not sure about the 3000gt but I know on my Galant VR4 that after
removing
> the honeycomb ...
Thanks for the input Ryan.
I would
like to clarify that when I said turbo cars I was referring to the
turbo line
of the 3S species, not turbo cars in general. I believe this is
a
popular and highly functional mod for certain other turbocharged
cars.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 00:16:29 -0600
From: "Steven Davis" <s.g.davis@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: one more suspension question
I have only been back on this list a
little while so forgive me if you
already covered this. But, I need to
make a decision soon. I am
considering getting rid of the ECS unit in
my 1992 VR-4 and wanted to know
what kind of shocks the guys with Eibach Pro
Line springs are running. Tech
Support at Eibach said they tested it
with the original struts. I am sick
and tired of the ECS headaches and
was thinking of replacing them with
Koni's. But I have no idea which
one would work for this application.. Any
info is
appreciated.
Steve Davis
1992 3KGT VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 00:42:26 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Removing honecombs (Was:Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK)
- -----Original
Message-----From: Oskar <swede@pclink.com>
>Bob Forrest
wrote:
>>While trying to remove them, quite a few folks
have
>> trashed the MAS honeycomb to varying degrees. They can be
opened
>> back up with a pair of needle-nose or a hemostat, etc.
Some of
us
>> have just removed the honeycomb entirely, with no
noticeable
>> negative effects.
>>
>I just wanted to
throw this out there regarding removing honeycombs
in the
>MAS. I
may be wrong, but still I want to mention this:
>
>I was under the
impression, from older posts, that removing some or
all of
>the
honeycombs was not working so well for turbo cars.
>
>I think it
would be a good idea if some people that have tried this
on turbo
>cars
would post their experiences. I would hate to see people try
this
if
>truly it doesn't work that well for the turbo
cars.
Excellent point! All the folks I know of who have removed
the
honeycomb have non-Turbos. (Except one friend with a Supra).
But
our cars are different, in case you hadn't noticed... :-) If
any
TT guys out there have done this mod, please post
your
experiences...
TIA,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 01:39:46 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Removing honecombs (Was:Re: K&N FIPK)
- -----Original
Message-----From: Barry E. King <beking@home.com>
>The Kharmn-Vrotex
stye airmeter requires relatively non-turbulent
airflow to
>derive
accurate readings, hence the honeycombs. They work by
creating
and
>measuring little vortices of air as they flow through the
airmeter.
If
>these vortices are not properly formed at a factory
calibrated rate
(which
>maps to some specific airflow) the airmeter
reading will be
completely
>useless to the ECU.
>
>I
personally feel that removing them is an ill-conceived idea,
but
some
>people swear by it. The honeycombs that straighten the
air
directly
>adjacent to the transducers and sensors (or whatever they
are
actually
>called) should definitely not be removed unless other
measures are
taken to
>straighten out the
airflow.
>
>Perrsonally I think the success of honey comb removal is
hit and
miss at
>best. That is, if your car runs correctly
afterwards you were
lucky. I
>could be wrong.
When
Mark Kibort and I were doing the first test of his eRAM
electric supercharger
on my car, we were forced to angle it
downward-- pointing at the MAS
honeycomb at a very sharp angle; and
it was held on with only gaffer
tape. Since Mark has had results
with other cars that was roughly twice
as good as what we got on my
Stealth NT, he did some testing in his own
lab... His results
showed that unless air is directed at the honeycomb
at a Zero angle,
close to 50% of the speed of that air is lost by the
interference
created by the cells of the honeycomb! Now I don't know
the details
of Kharman-Vortex spec, but what Barry said sounds right from
what
little I know about it. Our stock airbox allows air to enter
the
intake path from different distances-- the top of the airbox is
closer
to the MAS than the bottom. Therefore, it may be possible
that the only
reason for the honeycomb is to even out the flow from
the stock airbox so the
sensor can get a correct reading.
But when you replace the stock airbox
with a K&N FIPK, air enters
symmetrically, so it's possible that the
honeycomb is no longer
required. Almost all the air is entering at the
same speed, so
maybe you don't need a honeycomb to make it a consistent
stream of
air, and you don't need all that resistance slowing down
your
airflow.
According to the gurus at Frey Racing (who did my dyno
test of the
eRAM), that intake tube on our NT 3/S cars is a
power-robbing
horror... It's got an ullage tank (the resonator, which
most of us
have removed), two 90-degree bends, and a segmented
construction--
all of these things result in a veritable "obstacle course"
for the
intake air. I couldn't find time to do it this summer, but
I'm
going to try to redesign our intake, switching to smooth tubing,
and
eliminating one of the 90-degree elbows... I'll have to move
the
MAS and I'll probably move the battery to the trunk (and switch to
a
gel unit like Chris Winkley did) to give a bit more room for a
gentler
bend coming out of the throttle body... And if there's
room, I'll
install a Super eRAM (but I may have to settle for the
standard eRAM, which
is 2 inches shorter). I'll keep you posted,
with Dyno results, of
course... If anyone wants to chip in some
expertise on dealing with the
MAS, I could use the input-- my
background is Aeronautical, not
Electrical...
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 01:46:22 -0700
From: "Nav Moondi" <moondin@megahits.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ** West Coast Gathering : A Rearview mirror look back...
What a
Blast! What a Blast!
The first-ever West Coast Gathering was this
past weekend, and what
a party it was! We have *got* to do this again
very soon folks!! Thanks
to all who come and made this gathering so much
fun!!
And what a highlight it was! From the wild LA Caravan on
Friday, our
Denny's
rowdiness at a Denny's on Friday night, the
beauty of our cars shining in
the
park by the water and bridge, the *FUN*
17-mile drive along the Monterey
shoreline, the 120mph cruising and get
pulled over by Cops by Amit and
Monica,
only to get off with a warning!
(lol!), to the picture taking in the park
and beach,
sneaky dragracing in
cornfields in the middle of nowhere (camaro was blown
away by Matt!!), the
great food and laughs at the Mucky Duck Sat. night, to
the
GT guys kicking
Honda Kids butt (physically!!! lol!) 1am at a local KMart
parking
lot, to
our final brunch at Fisherman's Wharf on Sunday. It was
just
awesome!!!
Weather was just BEAUTIFUL. The cruising around
Monterey with our CB radios
was something you just HAVE to experience to
understand!!!
A total of 14 cars showed up for the gathering. And
for our first
gathering, it was just
a non stop party from Friday evening
til Sunday! John Boyd won the People's
Choice
award with his 92 Red
Stealth Turbo. Amit Patel won Best Twin Turbo with
his 99
Swweeeet!!
Black VR4, and Courtney Chu won Best Modified with her 94
Silver
GT!
Thanks to Bob Forrest for those great Team 3S Hats! Those
who didn't come,
you
missed out on a lot and you have GOT to come to
another one!! A lot of
friends were
made, tips were written down, a
video was made, and we definately garnered a
better
appreciation of our
cars.
I'll be picking up my pictures tomorrow. Those who also took
pics, please
email me your
pictures so I can put them up on the site very
soon.
** Already talk has been going around for another gathering very
soon b4 the
year is up. And
that place would be VEGAS!! So
those who didn't come, here's another chance
to meet
everyone. And
couldn't be a cooler city! We agreed on the FIRST weekend
of
November.
(5,6, 7th). So save up your money now! If you
would rather fly, feel free!
Most of the time
will be spent meeting and
having fun in Vegas! Those on the East Coast,
make this into
a combo
vacation/gathering meet!!! Fly over and visit all of us.
More
details will be posted
soon on this gathering.
If you live in
California and would like to get on our list for future
gatherings, info,
email me!.
So, can someone say Oil Change? LOL! :)
-
-= nav =-
- -= West Coast Gathering Page: http://www.goline.com/mmercy/nav/wcg.htm
=-
"Do me, not drugs..."
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 01:58:46 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: ** West Coast Gathering : A Rearview mirror look back...
Congrats to
Nav for a job well done! ET and I had a terrific time,
with some
super-neat folks... I'll post my pix on Nav's site...
You should all
check them out when he has it up. These cars looked
GREAT amid
Monterey's beauty.
Kudos Nav. We can't wait for the next
one...!
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----
From: Nav Moondi
<moondin@megahits.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, September 28, 1999 1:46 AM
Subject: Team3S: ** West Coast Gathering
: A Rearview mirror look
back...
>What a Blast! What a
Blast!
>
>The first-ever West Coast Gathering was this past weekend,
and what
>a party it was! We have *got* to do this again very soon
folks!!
Thanks
>to all who come and made this gathering so much
fun!!
>
>And what a highlight it was! From the wild LA Caravan
on Friday,
our
>Denny's
>rowdiness at a Denny's on Friday
night, the beauty of our cars
shining in
>the
>park by the
water and bridge, the *FUN* 17-mile drive along
the
Monterey
>shoreline, the 120mph cruising and get pulled over by
Cops by Amit
and
>Monica,
>only to get off with a warning!
(lol!), to the picture taking in
the park
>and beach,
>sneaky
dragracing in cornfields in the middle of nowhere (camaro
was
blown
>away by Matt!!), the great food and laughs at the Mucky Duck
Sat.
night, to
>the
>GT guys kicking Honda Kids butt
(physically!!! lol!) 1am at a local
KMart
>parking
>lot, to our
final brunch at Fisherman's Wharf on Sunday. It
was
just
>awesome!!!
>Weather was just BEAUTIFUL. The
cruising around Monterey with our
CB radios
>was something you just
HAVE to experience to understand!!!
>
>A total of 14 cars showed up
for the gathering. And for our first
>gathering, it was
just
>a non stop party from Friday evening til Sunday! John Boyd won
the
People's
>Choice
>award with his 92 Red Stealth Turbo.
Amit Patel won Best Twin
Turbo with
>his 99
>Swweeeet!! Black
VR4, and Courtney Chu won Best Modified with her
94
Silver
>GT!
>Thanks to Bob Forrest for those great Team 3S
Hats! Those who
didn't come,
>you
>missed out on a lot and
you have GOT to come to another one!! A
lot of
>friends
were
>made, tips were written down, a video was made, and we
definately
garnered a
>better
>appreciation of our
cars.
>
>I'll be picking up my pictures tomorrow. Those who
also took pics,
please
>email me your
>pictures so I can put them
up on the site very soon.
>
>** Already talk has been going around
for another gathering very
soon b4 the
>year is up.
And
>that place would be VEGAS!! So those who didn't come,
here's
another chance
>to meet
>everyone. And couldn't be a
cooler city! We agreed on the FIRST
weekend
of
>November.
>(5,6, 7th). So save up your money now! If
you would rather fly,
feel free!
>Most of the time
>will be spent
meeting and having fun in Vegas! Those on the East
Coast,
>make
this into
>a combo vacation/gathering meet!!! Fly over and visit all
of us.
More
>details will be posted
>soon on this
gathering.
>
>If you live in California and would like to get on our
list for
future
>gatherings, info, email me!.
>
>So, can
someone say Oil Change? LOL! :)
>
>-= nav =-
>-=
West Coast Gathering Page:
http://www.goline.com/mmercy/nav/wcg.htm
=-
>
>"Do me, not drugs..."
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 02:31:32 -0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
Metal Matrix is a brand of
pads made by Stillen... I believe. I also road
race. To prepare my car
for its first race on the track, I purchased Metal
Matrix pads, Powerstop
cross-drilled rotors and ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid.
I bought those brands
because I knew that I wouldn't road race alot and I
didn't want to spend much
money. I bedded in my brake pads to the rotors
before I ran the event.
Anyways... it was NOT enough. Driving the car fairly
aggressive, and
late-braking, like I do with my real race car, my brakes
faded to nothing in
about 3 laps! I almost ran into the back of a 99
Porsche! That was just a
practice session! When I pulled into my pit area,
smoke... no, more like
steam was coming out of both front wheel wells!
Anyways, in order to run the
event I had to BABY my brakes.
If you are going to road race our two ton
monsters, you need some serious
brake power. As far as fluid goes... use
Motul. That's what I use in my race
car and what I now use in my Stealth. As
far as pads go, Porterfield is the
best was to go. Porterfield also has
cryogenically treated crossed drilled
rotors for our cars as
well.
Metal Matrix pads are great street pads because they don't make
much noise
or create much brake dust. They have good initial bite and are
definatley
better than stock pads. Get the Porterfield pads if
you are gonna do any
road racing. When I used to do SCCA racing, I'd see Andy
Porterfield out
their in his GT-1 Camaro. So this guy knows
brakes!
website is www.porterfieldbrakes.com
Jose
Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 09:29:31 -0400
From: "Jim West" <jimwes@ulster.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
I agree that Porterfield pads
are the way to go but stay away from the cross
drilled rotors. I
recently ran at Watkins Glenn with Porterfield
cyrogenically treated cross
drilled rotors and R4 pads on all four wheels.
Both front rotors cracked the
first day. I have returned them and am
waiting to hear from Andy
Porterfield. The good news is that I had no
fading even with the stock
rotors on the second day. I was not being
totally agressive but the
breaks do get a heavy workout on the 3.4 mile long
course.
Jim
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com>
To:
Wendlandt, Mark (MN51) <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, September 28, 1999 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Question for
the Roadracers
>Metal Matrix is a brand of pads made by Stillen...
I believe. I also road
>race. To prepare my car for its first race
on the track, I purchased Metal
>Matrix pads, Powerstop cross-drilled
rotors and ATE Super Blue Racing
Fluid.
>I bought those brands because
I knew that I wouldn't road race alot and I
>didn't want to spend much
money. I bedded in my brake pads to the rotors
>before I ran the event.
Anyways... it was NOT enough. Driving the car
fairly
>aggressive, and
late-braking, like I do with my real race car, my brakes
>faded to nothing
in about 3 laps! I almost ran into the back of a 99
>Porsche! That was
just a practice session! When I pulled into my pit area,
>smoke... no,
more like steam was coming out of both front wheel wells!
>Anyways, in
order to run the event I had to BABY my brakes.
>
>If you are going
to road race our two ton monsters, you need some serious
>brake power. As
far as fluid goes... use Motul. That's what I use in my
race
>car and
what I now use in my Stealth. As far as pads go, Porterfield is the
>best
was to go. Porterfield also has cryogenically treated crossed
drilled
>rotors for our cars as well.
>
>Metal Matrix pads are
great street pads because they don't make much noise
>or create much brake
dust. They have good initial bite and are definatley
>better than stock
pads. Get the Porterfield pads if you are gonna do any
>road
racing. When I used to do SCCA racing, I'd see Andy Porterfield out
>their
in his GT-1 Camaro. So this guy knows brakes!
>
>website is www.porterfieldbrakes.com
>
>Jose
Soriano
>Amahoser@Linkline.com
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 15:57:37 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need best location to tap into for the Install of EGT
gauge.
> I just saw a '97 VR-4 last weekend with an Autometer shift
light. He had
a
> hard time wiring the thing due to the coil
setup. He ended up tapping
into
> the ECU wiring harness.
Not sure which wire he went after, but if you
check
> the service
manual you might find one for the RPMs.
The rpm wire is directly
accessible and can easily be tapped in.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 11:08:19 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension Question
GOOD EYES! I was supposed to read 3
degrees. Thanks!
Joe.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 09:12:06 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
At 09:29 AM 9/28/99 -0400,
you wrote:
>I agree that Porterfield pads are the way to go but stay away
from the cross
>drilled rotors. I recently ran at Watkins Glenn with
Porterfield
>cyrogenically treated cross drilled rotors and R4 pads on all
four wheels.
>Both front rotors cracked the first day. I have
returned them and am
>waiting to hear from Andy Porterfield. The
good news is that I had no
>fading even with the stock rotors on the
second day.
Porterfield told me they do not recommend cross
drilled rotors. They build
them only because people ask for them. I run the
same Porterfield
cryogenically treated rotor, but not drilled. No problems so
far.
Rich/old poop/VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Sep 1999 20:08:27 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Will the stock fuel pump handle 15psi ?
Kevin Clark
wrote:
>
> The following is a reply from the local HKS Supplier
here
> in New Zealand. He suggests replacing the fuel pump
when
> running anything above stock pressure, the claim is that
>
the car runs lean on any boost (>5%) higher than stock.
>
> Any
comments? Is this true or can I really disregard it?
While it is
true that a fuel system upgrade (pump, injectors and
supporting electronics)
is a good idea when running higher boost
pressures than stock, I have to
disagree with the statement that the car
runs lean at 15psi with the stock
system. During our February dyno
testing, my SAVC-R was set to 1.00 bar
(roughly 15 psi) and the AFR
monitor never showed a lean condition. The
IDC was pegged, which may
result in shortened injector life, but lean?
Nope!
Now if you want to crank it up higher, then you gotta pay to
play!
BTW, I've been running 1.00 bar with the stock fuel system for 25k
miles
now, no sign of any problem whatsoever.
- --
Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #294
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm