--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #293
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest Monday,
September 27 1999 Volume 01 : Number
293
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 10:54:45 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S:
K&N FIPK
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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I installed my FIPK yesterday.
I've got a couple of
quick questions. First... The instructions state
that=20
there's a rubber gasket between the MAS and the
filter housing
that should be re-used between the=20
FIPK and the MAS. My car didn't
have this gasket.
Is this a problem? =20
Also... did
you have the same problem I did=20
when taking the MAS off the filter
housing? The
plastic ribs that were supposed to hold the=20
thin bolt head
in place didn't... Had a helluva
time removing the four nuts that hold the
MAS
to the housing...
=20
Thanx for any help..
=20
-
-Gil
- ------=_NextPart_000_00E2_01BF080D.8B47D180
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2> <FONT
=
color=3D#000000>I=20
installed my FIPK yesterday. I've got
a couple =
of</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>quick
=
questions. =20
First... The instructions state that
</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>there's a =
rubber
gasket=20
between the MAS and
the</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>filter housing =
that should=20
be
re-used between the
</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>FIPK and the =
MAS.
My=20
car didn't have this
gasket.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>Is this a
=
problem? =20
</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT
=
color=3D#000000> Also...=20
did you
have the same problem I did
</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>when taking =
the MAS off
the=20
filter housing?
The</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>plastic ribs that were supposed to hold the
=
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>thin bolt head
in place didn't... Had a
=
helluva</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>time
removing the four nuts that hold the
=
MAS</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>to the
housing...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanx for any help..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>-Gil</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_00E2_01BF080D.8B47D180--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:54:17 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: Yahoo!
no, no.. not the web portal.. hehe.. I
am quite pleased to announce I am
no longer an ex-3/s owner! I just
bought a black 95 VR4 and I'm having a hard
time not being out in the garage
staring at it (or driving it!)..
the good news is I got a great
deal on it..
the bad news is I got a great deal on it.. I am
guessing the transfer case
internals are almost gone.. whenever I
decelerate and load the drive line, I
get a very loud whine.. (and no,
it's not coming from the passenger seat..
that usually only occurs when I
floor it.. heh..) sometimes it will almost
go away when under
acceleration, and is gone (of course) when I take it out
of gear and
coast..
I decided to check the fluid.. guess what..
chunks.. of metal.. somehow
I think that's a bad thing..
;) I changed the fluid in the transfer case
and the transmission
(tranny fluid seemed ok if a little dark - transfer case
fluid was black and
!silver! :O ), which seemed to make a very slight
improvement but not
enough..
my guess is that the car was towed with 2 wheels up and toasted
the transfer
case.. my reason for this guess is due to noticing
substantial stress cracks
on the bottom of the front bumper right where each
tow hook is located..
so..
A) what else do I need to check?
B)
do I need a new transfer case? (can this part be rebuilt?)
C) am I a
moron for knowingly buying a car that made funny sounds?
no need to
answer C.. I already know that one.. :/
Dave
95 (whiny)
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:02:36 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
part left over, where does it go?
Almost done putting my engine back
together, but I've got a small hose left
over. It's black rubber, 7"
long, 1/4" ID, 1/2" OD. I had it bound with
two other hoses that go to
the coolant expansion tank lid so it probably
goes in that general vicinity,
but I can't figure out where. Anyone got any
ideas?
Thanks, Ryan
P.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 08:50:00 +1200
From: Ryan.Judd@axon.co.nz
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need best location to tap into for the Install of EG T
gauge.
also I'm looking to install a shift light into my 3000gt anyone
have a clue
where to wire the coil wire on the gauge to in the engine
bay???
- -----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday,
26 September 1999 9:09
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Need best location to tap into for the Install of
EGT
gauge.
Hi all,
Where is the best
location to tap into for a GReddy EGT gauge? I
would
like to know what location to tap into for the best/accurate/precise
readings: the downpipe? where in particular (or does it matter?) I
mean
right after the rear or front turbo/after pre-cats?? Or somewhere
on the
primary pipe side which is closer to the main cat area? The
manifold? any
advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank
you!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 18:28:48 EDT
From: Yogourt@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Team3sS: Turbo question
In a message dated 9/26/99 10:33:30 AM Eastern
Daylight Time,
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
writes:
<< Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 16:26:11 +0200
From:
"R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo question
> Many mods are done at once here.
You should first tune in the VPC for good
low
> end accelleration
until everything is perefect. Then also enough power is
there
>to
drive the turbos.>>
I can't tune the VPC very well. I need advice
here. I don't have much info
on how to use it yet and I'm still trying
to decide what A/F gauge and EGT
gauge to buy (Suggestions are welcomed !).
I have hesitation and some jerking
under 1700rpm in 4th & 5th gear. Runs
pretty good at high rpm in all gears
unless I hit it from a dead stop with
more than 1.05 bar. The 1st 2 gears go
great. I tried out my son's gtech and
was getting between 3.9 and 4.5 sec
0-60 times. (I'm not a good 1-2 shifter
with this car and launch around
4000rpm since the car has 85000miles with
original trans and clutch). If I
try to do a quarter mile it starts to bog
down between 5-5500 RPM in 3td
gear. I'm guessing too rich or ignition
retard (hard for me to believe with
110 octane). Even with a 5000rpm 3-4
shift I get trap speeds between 112mph
and 116mph but the times don't match
up. The gtech shows 12.8-13.4 times.
Any help on the use of the VPC
are greatly appreciated. So far I've played
mostly with the response knob.
Each change seems to help temporarily. I have
the gain set at a 7 o'clock
position and am hesitant to increase it.
Increasing it seems to bring on
more mid range power but I think it's choking
with too much fuel at high
rpm. But then what do I know anyway! The
instructions are clearly
written.....for someone with an IQ >200. I'm sure
A/F and EGT
gauges will help.
> aquamist WI (haven't
played with it yet)
Is it disabled or not
?>>
I've installed the pump, the lines, and the jet. I'm still
debating on what
kind of tank to use. I don't really want to use the
windshield washer tank.
Running lines to the trunk looks like more
aggravation than it took to change
the turbos. I like the euro tank in the
front bumper but that looks like a
close second in aggravation to running
lines to the trunk. I'm
procrastinating in hopes that someone discovers a
great solution.
> haven't gutted the
pre cats and still have stock cat back. Should they
spool
> up
sooner now, or would they be expected to spool up quicker with
gutted
> precats and new cat back exhaust
?
>If you upgrade to larger turbos the pre-cats should go
pretty soon, i.e. at
the
>same time. They are the first and main
restriction in the path ! After
this, you
>may consider a larger
diameter cat-back system.
>>
I'm going to get a new cat
back but I'm not crazy about gutting the precats
from an environmental
standpoint and no one seems to know for sure how much
damage it may do to
the main cat, especially during a Michigan winter. I do
drive it sometimes
during the winter. Can't go up north without the AWD :).
Thanks for all
you're help
Paul
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 18:56:45 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Team3sS: Turbo question
>I can't tune the VPC very well. I
need advice here. I don't have much info
>on how to use it yet
and I'm still trying to decide what A/F gauge and EGT
>gauge to buy
(Suggestions are welcomed !). I have hesitation and some
jerking
>under 1700rpm in 4th & 5th gear. Runs pretty good at high rpm in all
gears
>unless I hit it from a dead stop with more than 1.05
bar.
Ouch! You really shouldn't attempt to install or adjust a VPC
without at
least an A/F monitor and preferably an EGT gauge as well. It
is real easy
to run things lean and blow rings and the like. Without
instrumentation
there's no good way to understand what the motor is
doing.
>I'm going to get a new cat back but I'm not crazy about
gutting the precats
>from an environmental standpoint and no one seems
to know for sure how much
>damage it may do to the main cat,
especially during a Michigan winter. I do
>drive it sometimes during
the winter. Can't go up north without the AWD :).
It only allows slightly
higher emissions during the period of time between
when the pre-cats are up
to operating temp and when the main cat heats up.
Shouldn't be much more than
3-5 minutes of slightly higher emissions. If
the majority of your
driving is over 10 minutes, then the increase in
emissions should be
negligible. It won't damage the main cat at all to not
have
pre-cats. The pre-cats are only there to reduce emissions during
the
warm-up cycle and don't do anything to "filter" the exhaust.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 17:11:43 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Team3sS: Turbo question
Hi,
Yogourt@aol.com wrote:
>I haven't
gutted the pre cats and still have stock cat back. Should they spool
>up
sooner now, or would they be expected to spool up quicker with
gutted
>precats and new cat back exhaust?
Your cats and/or precats
might be clogged up, especially since you have
a high mileage car and you
live in a cold climate. Jack Tertadian had this
problem with a VR4 he
recently purchased.
In any case, having cats and especially precats on
your car is definitely
going to contribute to your spoolup problems.
The 15G's require a lot
more exhaust to turn them compared to the tiny stock
9B's. You need
as free-flowing exhaust as possible.
>
instructions are clearly written.....for someone with an IQ >200. I'm
sure
> A/F and EGT gauges will help.
It's nearly impossible to
adequately tune an A/F controller like the VPC
without the proper
gauges.
> I'm going to get a new cat back but I'm not crazy about
gutting the precats
> from an environmental standpoint
If you want
your 15G's to spool more quickly then the precats have to go.
As far as the
environment, modern society has gotten the issue under control
as a whole by
means of stricter government standards on vehicle emissions.
However, there
will always be some amount of CFC's released into the
atmosphere so long as
we use carbon-fuel powered automobiles. The little
bit extra that you
add to this isn't going to make any difference. In fact,
it will only
make a tiny negligible difference because the precats only act to
heat up the
exhaust gases when your car's engine is still cold. Our engines
tend to heat
up very quickly, so their effectiveness is insiginificant.
I'm one of a
very small number of people out there who chooses to drive
his high
performance automobile with neither precats nor cats, and I don't
think
Mother Nature is any worse for the wear. Now the amount of cars
added
to our highways each year, ~that~ is another issue altogether.
> and
no one seems to know for sure how much
> damage it may do to the main
cat,
None. I see no reason why lack of precats would damage your
catalytic
converter. There are plenty of cars out there that don't have
catalytic
converters. Our cars don't take long to warm up
anyway.
- --Errin Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 17:33:59 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gutting precats on CA emissions car?
Matt Jannusch
wrote:
> I'm considering gutting out the pre-cats on my car and was
wondering if
> anyone with the CA emissions package has done this on their
car and whether
> or not the Check Engine light came on after you did
it. I understand that
> the CA cars have more emissions crap on
them, and don't want to have a
> blaring light on my dash and not be able
to reverse my handiwork.
Hi Matt,
I have a CA emissions car.
I gutted my precats (and ditched my cat converter)
last summer (i.e.summer of
'98). I didn't have a Check Engine light issue until
last winter when
it started to come on incessantly.
At the time I thought it was related
to my EBC (AVC-R) which had only
the harness connected. Taking this out
of the equation failed to make the
problem disappear. Sometime after
that my car picked up the common
problem (for VR4's) of a leaky
waterpump. Not long after that (but before
I had the waterpump
replaced) this "infection" somehow spread to my
alternator which decided to
croak on me at an inopportune time (in the
middle of the freeway). I
began to assume that this had somehow been at
the root of the Check Engine
light problem, but the replacement of these
parts failed to eliminate it,
much to my chagrin.
I'm starting to assume that the problem does indeed
lie in the fact that the
car is CA-emissions, but I can't think of how this
would be possible. My
car is '94, so it isn't OBD-II (there are no
post-cat 02-sensors). I believe
the only thing extra the CA-emission
has is post-precat 02-sensors, so it
is possible that the ECU would be
programmed to look for a significant
temp. difference between the pre and
post-cat 02-sensors. However, this
difference would probably be
negligible once the car is warmed up, and
that is usually the time when the
Check Engine light comes on for me. It
might just be that somehow one
or more of my 02 sensors went "bad" and
needs to be replaced, but I'm in no
hurry to do so given that the car runs
fine and they are somewhat
expensive. I plan to have a dianostics test on
the car soon to give me
the problem codes, so I'll let you know what I find
out.
- --Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 17:37:37 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Team3sS: Turbo question
>> and no one seems to know
for sure how much
>> damage it may do to the main cat,
I
wrote:
>None. I see no reason why lack of precats would damage
your catalytic
>converter. There are plenty of cars out there that
don't have catalytic
>converters. Our cars don't take long to warm
up anyway.
OOPS! Correction: I meanst to say that there are
"plenty of cars out
there that don't have ~precats~ while they do have cat
converters."
- --Errin Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 19:04:53 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Yahoo!
Dave wrote:
> the bad news is I got a great deal
on it.. I am guessing the transfer case
> internals are almost
gone.. whenever I decelerate and load the drive line, I
> get a very
loud whine.. (and no, it's not coming from the passenger seat..
>
that usually only occurs when I floor it.. heh..) sometimes it will
almost
> go away when under acceleration, and is gone (of course) when I
take it out
> of gear and coast..
additional info:
I just
realized the sound doesn't completely go away while coasting.. I
also
noticed that I can hear a metal-on-metal sound while turning at full
lock..
but only moving forward.. if I back up in full lock it's
fine..
I realize all of these symptoms probably mean a rebuild or
replacement, but
I thought I'd check to see if they sounded familiar to any
of you..
BTW, thank you to everyone that replied to me on my gauge
question a week or
so ago!
Dave
95 (whiny) VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 21:26:05 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Yahoo!
does anyone know if its possible to make a change from an
automatic to a 5
speed on a 98 3000GT SL, the auto tranny is dying on my,
kinda sucks, so was
wondering how much and what it would take for a
conversion
thanks
Edwin
98 3000GT SL
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 21:26:36 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Tranny
- -----Original Message-----
From: Edwin Shaw <seawulf@sgi.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, September 26, 1999 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Yahoo!
>does anyone know if its possible to make a change from an
automatic to a 5
>speed on a 98 3000GT SL, the auto tranny is dying on my,
kinda sucks, so
was
>wondering how much and what it would take for a
conversion
>thanks
>Edwin
>98 3000GT SL
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 18:52:16 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Yahoo!
Dave;
Go to Mikael's homepage and check out his
rebuild of the transfer case. He
is one of our European Admins and he did a
super job not only on the
rebuild, but the pictoral "walk you through his
job" is peerless.This is at
http://www.3000gt.nu/getragpage.htm.
For any others who haven't vistited, do
yourself a favour and find out
through this example, why this group is such
an outstanding gathering
of professionals. If that doesn't do it for you
(and I'm sure it
will), then go to Roger's site. If that still doesn't do
it, I'll be
happy to unsub you. ;-)
Hope this helps
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 21:32:09 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Yahoo!
> the bad news is I got a great deal on it.. I am
guessing the transfer
case
> internals are almost gone.. whenever
I decelerate and load the drive
line, I
> get a very loud whine..
(and no, it's not coming from the passenger
seat..
> that usually only
occurs when I floor it.. heh..) sometimes it will
almost
>
go away when under acceleration, and is gone (of course) when I take
it
out
> of gear and coast..
Be very careful with this...
If it were me, I wouldn't drive it until the
problem was fixed. If the
transfer case goes south and locks up, it'll lock
all four wheels and you
will have zero vehicle control. This has resulted
in a couple deaths on
DSM cars.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Sep 1999 20:39:25 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Drag Race tire comparision question ???
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
Comparison...
>
> Would an actual 26 x 8 x 16 Drag
Slick
> be faster or grip better then a
> 25 1/2 x 10 x 17 Drag DOT
Radial. (2 inch wider)
As far as pure traction is concerned I'm not quite
sure what
calculations would allow you to figure this out. However,
I
would imagine that the extra stickiness from properly heated
all-out
wrinkewall slicks would close the gap in width (so to
speak) quite a bit with
the wider drag radials. Whether or
not you will be able to burn them
out enough beforehand is
an issue. (Even if you can easily spin all
four w/ 1000hp, you
are going to move much farther than the typical 2wd
burnout).
And whether or not either of these setups is sufficient for
a
measly 1000hp is another issue altogether.
There are a few
advantages to the (thinner) drag slick setup:
1) Less aerodynamic
resistance. Increased aerodynamic
resistance from increased wheel/tire
width is (I hear) a much
more significant factor than most people
realize.
2) More control. With 1000hp (45% of which is
potentially
going to the front wheels), properly controlling and steering
the
awd car down the track could be a major issue. Wider tires
will
probably worsen this problem. Can you say "torquesteer"? :)
3) More
sidewall will give more traction at launch. You'll get
more sidewall
both from the taller tire and higher tire profile
(16's vs. 17's on the dot
radials).
Keep in mind that your car will still be somewhat heavy.
3200lbs
is an impressive weight reduction, yet I'm pretty sure the
HKS
Skyline runs 10" wide Good Year slicks. It weighs ~2200lbs,
and
its front/rear traction distribution is top secret.
Hope that
helps,
- --Errin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 00:44:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
- -----Original Message-----From: Gil Gomes <gil@warpedweb.com>
I installed my FIPK yesterday. I've got a couple of
quick
questions. First... The instructions state that
there's a rubber gasket
between the MAS and the
filter housing that should be re-used between
the
FIPK and the MAS. My car didn't have this gasket.
Is this a
problem?
Also... did you have the same problem I
did
when taking the MAS off the filter housing? The
plastic ribs that were
supposed to hold the
thin bolt head in place didn't... Had a helluva
time
removing the four nuts that hold the MAS
to the
housing...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hey,
Gil,
Mine didn't have the gasket either. I believe that this filter
is
used on a number of other cars, some of which must use a gasket
to
insure a good seal. I guess ours don't need one-- the junction
is
very snug on mine, so I'm sure it's no problem.
All of us have had
the same difficulty removing the bolts, BTW...
It's a stupid design-- it
would take a special tool to hold those
flat bolt heads in place, and I'm
sure not even Dodge/Mitsu dealers
have them. While trying to remove
them, quite a few folks have
trashed the MAS honeycomb to varying
degrees. They can be opened
back up with a pair of needle-nose or a
hemostat, etc. Some of us
have just removed the honeycomb entirely,
with no noticeable
negative effects.
Admin note>>> This
list is text only! Please turn off HTML when
sending messages. It
is against our rules for a very good reason--
it wreaks havoc with the list
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folks who get the digest version of the
list. If you don't know
how, contact one of the admins and we'll be
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Thanks for understanding.
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 10:25:31 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Question for the Roadracers
Roadracers,
I bought
ABEX pads from AA to prepare for upcoming road race. They said
that
they were the Metal Matrix pads(whatever that means) and supposed to be
real
good.
Anyway, I flushed my brake fluid out last night with some
Castrol brake
fluid(exceeds dot4). Then, I went out for a little
cruise. From 60mph I
could mash the brakes and get the anti-lock to
kick in. But, when I was up
at 100mph+ and mashed the brakes I
immediately got brake fade and had a
tough time slowing her down. I did
this three times(allowing for time to
cool between attempts) and the last
time I kept on the brakes until I was
almost stopped and noticed a large
cloud of smoke coming from both front
brakes. I then drove around for a
while and the brakes seemed to come back.
This bothers me because I'm
going to Brainerd International Raceway(3mi road
course..1mi straight) and I
don't think that the brakes will hold up to that
kind of abuse.
My car
is a '91RT/TT with stock brakes all around. I plan on upgrading
my
rotors and brake lines this winter, but thought that I could get
through
this race with some good pads and flushing the system.
I think
my problem is that the pads can't handle the heat. Although, the
brakes
get really spongy when stopping from these high speeds so maybe it is
the
brake fluid boiling??
I understand that my stock brakes are crummy, but I
want to make the best of
what I have.
Any advise to help me get
through this race would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #293
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