--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #286
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest Friday, September 17 1999 Volume 01 : Number 286

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:10:30 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S: Freaky Bouncy Tach Question...

Last week my car started having a problem where the tach will fall off to 0 then
bounce around below where it should be reading when doing a WOT launch in first
gear. Sometimes I get a check engine light also. The code was a "multiple cylinder
misfire". Here's my mods list;

HKS EVC IV@1.0 Bar
HKS Plugs@.034
Accel Wires
K&N FIPK
Borla

The engine runs normally and never coughs or stutters even while the tach's
bouncing. After the tach does it once for the rest of the time you drive the car if
you try to make any fast changes in engine speed the tach seems to lag and loose
it's signal. I'm thinking it's an ignition problem but I checked the wires to make
sure that they're securely on the coils. They don't "snap" or "click" into the
coils like the stock ones did. Like I said this just popped up and it never did it
before. I was on vacation to TX where I was using 93 octane instead of the 91 we
have here in KS. Since 93 is more difficult for the ignition system to light could
that be the problem?

Trevor James
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typoon

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:48:59 -0500
From: "Noah Erickson" <noaherickson@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Freaky Bouncy Tach Question...

Texas 93 octane is really 91 octane. There's no such thing as too much
octane, at least under 120 or so. The 3S can vary timing ALOT to compensate
for different octane gas, so it shouldn't be a problem. Also, check the
tach output wire on the coil pack assembly. I'm sorry I can't be too
specific, but I haven't looked at a 3S in awhile. I need to fix that. TTS:
ready for the next group of mods yet?

I hope that helps a little, and in any case it turns out to be minor and
easy to resolve.

Noah Erickson
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #1954
TTS's Spyder VR-4's "chief grease monkey"

> Last week my car started having a problem where the tach will fall off to
0 then
> bounce around below where it should be reading when doing a WOT launch in
first
> gear. Sometimes I get a check engine light also. The code was a "multiple
cylinder
> misfire". Here's my mods list;
> HKS EVC IV@1.0 Bar
> HKS Plugs@.034
> Accel Wires
> K&N FIPK
> Borla
>
> The engine runs normally and never coughs or stutters even while the
tach's
> bouncing. After the tach does it once for the rest of the time you drive
the car if
> you try to make any fast changes in engine speed the tach seems to lag and
loose
> it's signal. I'm thinking it's an ignition problem but I checked the wires
to make
> sure that they're securely on the coils. They don't "snap" or "click" into
the
> coils like the stock ones did. Like I said this just popped up and it
never did it
> before. I was on vacation to TX where I was using 93 octane instead of the
91 we
> have here in KS. Since 93 is more difficult for the ignition system to
light could
> that be the problem?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:07:55 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Freaky Bouncy Tach Question...

>Last week my car started having a problem where the tach will fall off to 0
then
>bounce around below where it should be reading when doing a WOT launch in
first
>gear. Sometimes I get a check engine light also. The code was a "multiple
cylinder
>misfire". Here's my mods list;

Hmm, the first launch problem sounds to me like an electrical connection
problem. It seems like ignition is lost for a second.

>sure that they're securely on the coils. They don't "snap" or "click" into
the
>coils like the stock ones did. Like I said this just popped up and it never
did it
>before.

This is the same with the Magnecors and I highly recommend to clean and
regap (enlargen) the boot and the contact in it. A while ago I reported some
"Gremlins" in my car as I was stuck in bumper to pumper traffic and the car
died twice without doing anything. The problem finally were the wire boots
not making good contact.

> I was on vacation to TX where I was using 93 octane instead of the 91 we
>have here in KS. Since 93 is more difficult for the ignition system to
light could
>that be the problem?

You should run the highest octane rated available pump gas. Especially on 1
bar of boost, at least 93 octane is needed as even there knock rises. The
amount is not so much and timing will not be retarded but knock IS there !

My advise : Check the wire boots and contacts again and use an electrical
contact cleaner for this. Also remove the ignition plugs and clean the
contacts as well. Finally do the same to the ignition transistor connector.

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:25:13 -0400
From: RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Team3S: Octane in Texas: 93 = 91?

Noah Erickson wrote "Texas 93 octane is really 91 octane."

Please elaborate! What do you mean by this? Octane ratings are not the same
all over?

I have noticed that some stations have higher octane ratings for their premium
gas, but they also use ethanol blends (10% ethanol). My experience with an
older non-turbo carburated V8 car was that the ethanol blends did not SEEM to
give me as much power as 100% premium gas - even though the premium-only gas has
a 1- or 2-points lower octane rating (93 vs. 94-95 octane). I haven't really
done much testing of ethanol blends with my Stealth TT.

I used to live in Iowa, where 10% ethanol blend gas is cheaper than 100%
gasoline (due to state subsidies). Now I live in Michigan, where there is no
cost advantage to buying ethanol blends.

What are other list members' thoughts on this? I know that higher octane is
better - but if the octane rating is raised by using an ethanol blend, then is
it really better?

Roger Roskam
91 Stealth TT

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:13:54 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant? --- timing belt

Actually, on the 3.0L Turbo engines, the water pump is not driven off the
alternator belt (or an "external" engine belt) for a very good reason: power
consumption. I don't know how the water pump is driven on the NT cars.
However, the water pump on the turbo cars is a very well manufactured and
"streamlined" part that runs directly off of the timing belt. It is located
at about the middle of the engine beneath the timing belt covers (again, this
is on the DOHC turbo models). I would think the configuration is the same
for the DOHC NT cars.

Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 14:53:53 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant? --- timing belt

How does driving the water pump off of the timing belt decrease HP loss?
Isn't it the same energy to turn the pump whether you run it off of the
timing belt or the acc. belt? Is there an efficiency difference in the belt
design?

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
Free automotive classifieds and more.
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- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
TrboDrvr@aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 1:14 PM
To: noaherickson@sprintmail.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant? --- timing belt

Actually, on the 3.0L Turbo engines, the water pump is not driven off the
alternator belt (or an "external" engine belt) for a very good reason:
power
consumption. I don't know how the water pump is driven on the NT cars.
However, the water pump on the turbo cars is a very well manufactured and
"streamlined" part that runs directly off of the timing belt. It is located
at about the middle of the engine beneath the timing belt covers (again,
this
is on the DOHC turbo models). I would think the configuration is the same
for the DOHC NT cars.

Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:04:20 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: FAQ update

Being in the line of work i'm currently in, y2k, super-critical deadlines
come out of no where. So...nothing done this week.

However on your end i got a lot of great e-mails again. Thanks everyone!

Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:07:40 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Road America

Hey gang, there is an open track event at Road America on October 2-3,
sponsored by the Alfa Romeo club.
For more info, go to:

http://www.caroc.com/roadamerica.html

Just think...4.5 miles of black lightning...three one mile
straights...braking from 140 mph.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:50:37 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: More water injection fun

Hey everyone,

I just got my 1G DSM BOV and adapter in the mail today. And of course, I
couldn't wait to put it in and go have some fun.

My stock BOV leaks really bad. With the old BOV and the Blitz set at
100/100 with water injection, the most the turbos would peak to is 1.29
kg/cm2. (in third gear) Now with the 1G DSM BOV, the Stealth peaks at 1.50
!!! Obviously this is a big difference. The car did have hesitation when
it got close to 1.50, but no fuel cut. I think 1.3 is what I'll set the
limiter to for daily driving. ;)

In "drag racing" mode, third gear peaked at 1.42. Previous to the new BOV
in "drag" mode, the highest I got in third gear was 1.25.

I would strongly recommend anyone planning on running more than 15psi, to
get an aftermarket BOV or the 1G DSM BOV. The advantage the 1g DSM BOV has
over the aftermarket ones, is no stumbling during daily driving. My stock
BOV is junk, I can blow through it pretty easily and when I shake it, it
rattles like a baby rattle.

Now I need to get my butt to the drag strip. That will be tomorrow at Rock
Falls. ;)

Happy Boosting!!
Curt,
95 R/T TT --> 13.11 @ 105.9 mph
96 GSX --> 14.49 @ 92.9 mph
and author of Minnesota 3/S at: http://www.mn3s.org

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 19:09:37 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Team3S: boost gauges in Denver metro area?

Two questions. Sort of off-topic, but hopefully you'll forgive me.. :)

First, do any of you know of a shop that carries/stocks boost gauges
somewhere in or near Denver? (I'm actually in Boulder, but I've given
up on finding anything locally.) I'm looking for a gauge for my VW
GTI, and it's going to be a custom install, which is why I'd kinda like
to do the touch and feel thing to make sure it'll work before I buy.

Second, and please don't laugh, but is there any difference in a boost
gauge for a turbo vs. a supercharger? My GTI has a transplanted G60
corrado supercharged engine, and I have no way to currently measure
boost. So, is boost is boost is boost? I'm assuming so, but I wanted
the experts say-so.

OK I lied. I have another question. I'm going through painful
withdrawl without my VR4. I sold it, and have been kicking myself
ever since. Anyone know of any real bargains out there? 3 or S as
long as it's twin-turbo. Severe budget constraint, so it has to be
desperation sale priced. Yeah, I know, you'd have bought it yourself
if it were that cheap. Any leads on any good unabused 3/S TT would
be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Dave
87 G60 GTI
ex 91 Arrest-Me-Red VR4

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 21:26:54 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Lowering springs for 96 RTTT

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My car is near 60,000 miles and I want to replace the stock struts and =
springs, hopefully lowering it in the process (3-4" wheel well gap). On =
most web sites, the kits say 95>w/o sunroof. Any ideas on whether the =
car has a sunroof has anything to do with dropping it an inch or two?

Thanks,
Cory

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<DIV>My car is near 60,000 miles and I want to =
replace=20
the stock struts and springs, hopefully lowering it in the process (3-4" =
wheel=20
well gap).  On most web sites, the kits say 95>w/o =
sunroof.  Any=20
ideas on whether the car has a sunroof has anything to do with dropping =
it an=20
inch or two?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Cory</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF0153.5D2E6C20--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 22:54:49 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost gauges in Denver metro area?

Try Mile High Motorsports in Littleton
http://www.mhautomotive.com/

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 00:47:51 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lowering springs for 96 RTTT

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_016B_01BF016F.6F706DE0
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Yes, a sunroof adds extra weight to the car. If you put springs designed for
a sunroof car, in a non sunroof car, the drop will not be as significant.

Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of CEskelsen
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:27 PM
To: 3000 list
Subject: Team3S: Lowering springs for 96 RTTT

My car is near 60,000 miles and I want to replace the stock struts and
springs, hopefully lowering it in the process (3-4" wheel well gap). On
most web sites, the kits say 95>w/o sunroof. Any ideas on whether the car
has a sunroof has anything to do with dropping it an inch or two?

Thanks,
Cory

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Ye=
s, a
sunroof adds extra weight to the car. If you put springs designed for a =
sunroof
car, in a non sunroof car, the drop will not be as =
significant.<o:p></o:p>

<!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

<!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

Brad<o:p></o:p></=
p>

Check out my home page:  =
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/<o:p></o:p></=
p>

 E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682<o:p></o:p></=
p>

<=
span
class=3DEmailStyle15><![if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

-----Original
Message----- 
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of CEskelsen 
Sent: Friday, September =
17, 1999
10:27 PM 
To: 3000 list 
Subject: Team3S: Lowering =
springs
for 96 RTTT

<![if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p>

My car is near 60,000 miles and I want to replace the stock =
struts
and springs, hopefully lowering it in the process (3-4" wheel well =
gap). 
On most web sites, the kits say 95>w/o sunroof.  Any ideas on =
whether
the car has a sunroof has anything to do with dropping it an inch or =
two?<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

 <o:p></o:p><=
/p>

Thanks,<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

Cory<o:p></o:p><=
/p>

</div>

</body>

</html>

- ------=_NextPart_000_016B_01BF016F.6F706DE0--

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #286
****************************

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