--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #285
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest       Thursday, September 16 1999       Volume 01 : Number 285




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 17:14:06 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More S-AVC-R Plumbing Questions

Hi Ken, Paul;

It sounds like Paul has my model of SAVC-R, whereas you (Ken)  have the new
bells and whistles model. In the case of my edition, the solenoid has two
lines and the sensor is separate with it's own line. I suspect the box Ken
is talking about, combines these features in one unit. However, the plumbing
is still all the same.

My advice: get to it Paul, we've nearly talked this to death.

Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: More S-AVC-R Plumbing Questions


>
>> >No one's response to my questions regarding the plumbing for
>> >the S-AVC-R has mentioned an orifice in their plumbing.  APEXi
>> >has included an orifice in their supplied fittings, but their
>> >suggested place for its installation would not have the desired
>> >effect.
>>
>> What effect are you speaking about ? Usually, there is no orivice needed
as
>> this would cause a leak in the lines. AFAIK, there are three hoses that
go
>> to the Apexi box, the inlet from the y-pipe, the outlet to the "H" type
>> connector and the boost sensing line from the manifold.
>
>I assume by "Apexi box" you mean the solenoid.  Actually, there are only
two
>hoses required:  1 from the y-pipe and 1 to the wastegate actuator
connector (H
>or Tee).  The Apexi solenoid just vents to atmosphere.
>
>The pressure sensor requires a separate hose to the plenum OR you can tap
into a
>line pressurized by the plenum.
>
>--
>Drive faster, it is later than you think!
>
>Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>General Atomics
>San Diego
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:45:02 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Placement of T Connector for GReddy Boost Meter

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEFFC3.910852E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Another Newbie question,
    My GReddy boost meter just arrived with the instruction booklet in =
Japanese.  As far as I can tell, the installation calls for the T to be =
placed between Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Intake Manifold.  There =
is a solenoid between the manifold and the FPR.  Should the T be placed =
between the manifold and the solenoid or the solenoid and FPR?  I =
appreciate any help offered...

Cory Eskelsen
96 RTTT

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEFFC3.910852E0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">Another Newbie question,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; My GReddy boost meter just arrived with the =
instruction=20
booklet in Japanese.&nbsp; As far as I can tell, the installation calls =
for the=20
T to be placed between Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Intake =
Manifold.&nbsp;=20
There is a solenoid between the manifold and the FPR.&nbsp; Should the T =
be=20
placed between the manifold and the solenoid or the solenoid and =
FPR?&nbsp; I=20
appreciate any help offered...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cory Eskelsen</DIV>
<DIV>96 RTTT</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEFFC3.910852E0--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:13:46 PDT
From: "Greg Gonzales" <greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Greddy turbo timer How do I install?

I recently purchased a Greddy turbo timer with harness for my 92 RT TT.
How do I install it?? The instructions are vague.
Do I take the steering column apart? The lower portion of the dash?
Can someone give me some steps to install it?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Greg
92 RT TT

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:15:25 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Placement of T Connector for GReddy Boost Meter

The T needs to see manifold pressure.  Find the line from the manifold to
the FPR and use it.  If for some reason your configuration is different,
just tap into the manifold line (there is only one of the appropriate
size -- the small one at the rear of the manifold) and don't worry about
where it is going.

The T should be in the line between the manifold and where else it is going
so that the boost gauge sees pressure befre anything else.


Barry


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of CEskelsen
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 8:45 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Placement of T Connector for GReddy Boost Meter


Another Newbie question,
    My GReddy boost meter just arrived with the instruction booklet in
Japanese.  As far as I can tell, the installation calls for the T to be
placed between Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Intake Manifold.  There is a
solenoid between the manifold and the FPR.  Should the T be placed between
the manifold and the solenoid or the solenoid and FPR?  I appreciate any
help offered...

Cory Eskelsen
96 RTTT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 00:52:40 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1995 stealth brochure

I know that this is probably WAY outta line here but I don't belong to
starnet anymore and I figured that someone may be interested.

I have a 1995 Dodge Stealth brochure/performance catalog that I am
selling on E-Bay.  The auction ends in roughly two days  I'm only asking
$2 for it plus some money for shipping because it is not perfect(see
listing for details)  E-BAY Item #164019652.

    Sorry for the off topic post guys but nobody has bid on it yet And I
think I'm practically giving it away.  E-mail me in private for
questions or discipline.

Thanks,(and sorry)
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 05:52:19 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: The Boys Went Out to Play

Long post -- of interest to road racers only

Yesterday (Wednesday), my son and I went to the Marshalltown, Iowa  Go-Kart
track to spend an afternoon hot lapping.  A bunch of guys (13) got
together, rented the track for $250, and lapped from 1:00  to 6:00 pm.

It's a 5/8 mile track with about 10 turns, run in 2nd gear. I hit the rev
limiter twice per lap, so top speed on track is about 80 mph. A fast lap is
42 sec., so we were running about a 55 mph average.

We had a regular car show in attendance: two Ferrari 348s, Porsche twin
turbo AWD, Porche 944 turbo, 4 BMWs, Audi, 5.0 Mustang,  300ZX twin turbo,
my son's Fiero and my VR4.

The track had a photocell timer set up, and one of our guys is a computer
wizard, so we had computer readouts all day of lap times. Your humble
narrator was 3rd fastest at 42.1 in the VR4, a  few tenths behind the twin
turbo Porsche at 41.8 and one of the 348s, driven by an ex pro racer, at 41.7.

I followed the Porsche for a few laps, and could gain on him through the
twisty bits, but he pulled away on the straight with his 400+ hp. He could
go nearly flat through turn 1 at 80 mph, but I couldn't quite figure out
the correct line. The inside of the turn had a curb with rumble strips and
the outside was lined with tires a few feet away from an embankment, which
made experimenting with lines a bit dicey. I tried every which way to get
through that turn. My best line was to stab the brakes about 100 ft before
the turn to set the suspension, then power through in a 4-wheel slide. Yes,
a slide: for the first time, I actually got the VR4 sideways under power.

I'd run for 8-10 laps, until the brakes got hot (running stock pads), then
come in to cool everything down. We had some very experienced guys who
served as instructors, so I took two instructor sessions and made about six
solo runs. I guess I ran 100 laps or so, and used up a half a tank of gas.

The Yoko A032Rs stuck very well. At the very end, I put the Michelin Pilots
back on and did 10 laps or so. Alas, they had packed up the timer by then,
so I couldn't get a good comparison. I'd guess the 032Rs are good for about
a second a lap, maybe more. The best part is that they stick, and don't
slide (well, except for turn 1).

Amazingly, my stock brakes held up pretty well. I have some fairly good air
ducts rigged up now, so that must be the reason. If I had the Porterfield
R4 race pads installed, I may have caught both the Ferrari and the Porsche,
because the R4s stop much better than stock pads. I'll get 'em next time.

The group was just a bunch of  guys who could take off during the week and
go play with their fancy toys. Two or three had done some club and pro
racing, several were ex-SCCA autocrossers, several run open track events,
and one or two were rank novices. One guy has a Corvette restoration shop
in Dallas and came up here just to run the track (I don't know which car he
was driving or how he got it here). I know, it sounds like a bunch of rich
white guys going out to play, but it wasn't like that. These guys were
fast, had well set-up cars, and had figured out a way to have some serious
fun.

This group gets together 2-3 times per year to rent the go-kart track or
set up their own autocrosses on a parking lot. All are tired of paying $15
to run an SCCA or Corvette club autocross and spending all day waiting to
get two or three short runs on cold tires and cold brakes. Instead, for $20
each we got 100 laps without pylons.  Next, they plan to rent Hawkeye
Downs, which is a half-mile paved oval with a 1/4 mile paved oval inside.
They'll run 3/4 of a lap on the big oval, then turn left into the inner
oval and run it backwards, then back up onto the big oval. Should be fun,
running on an oval.

For those of you who are tired of sanctioned autocrossing, you might try
this approach. Find a bunch of guys with fast cars, rent a local track, and
set up your own hot lapping events.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:37:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant?

Thanks for everyone's help with my Low coolant question.

More questions :)

Is coolant sold in stores? Or do I buy the antifreeze and mix it myself?
What brands do you guys recommend?

Secondly, Im my car is up to 18k miles. Do you guys recommend I change the
anti freeze? I got the car at 14k miles, and its a 97. How difficult is it
to change the anti-freeze? Do I just dran the white container (I'm going
to assume there is a drain plug under it). Is it easily accessible ?

Thanks





For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:05:07 -0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant?

This is actually in response to my question about water pumps.  I tried to
read through and decipher what the end answer was.  Is it mandatory to
remove the timing belt or not?
Thanks,
Gabe Estrada
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant?


> Thanks for everyone's help with my Low coolant question.
>
> More questions :)
>
> Is coolant sold in stores? Or do I buy the antifreeze and mix it myself?
> What brands do you guys recommend?
>
> Secondly, Im my car is up to 18k miles. Do you guys recommend I change the
> anti freeze? I got the car at 14k miles, and its a 97. How difficult is it
> to change the anti-freeze? Do I just dran the white container (I'm going
> to assume there is a drain plug under it). Is it easily accessible ?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 14:50:49 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant?

Yes, it is mandatory to remove the timing belt.  In fact, the timing belt
drives the water pump.  So there is no way around it.

Joe. 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:26:58 -0500
From: "Noah Erickson" <noaherickson@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antifreeze = Coolant? --- timing belt

> Yes, it is mandatory to remove the timing belt.  In fact, the timing belt
> drives the water pump.  So there is no way around it.
>

Really?  In DSMs the water pump is on the same belt as the alternator, but
since you have to remove the timing belt cover anyway you might as well
replace it.  I would think the timing belt would only drive the cams, since
water pumps can break and wobble, causing the belt to come off, and that'd
be pretty catastrophic if the timing belt was on there.

Noah Erickson
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #1954
TTS' Spyder VR-4's chief "grease monkey"


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #285
****************************

For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm