--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #283
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
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Precedence:
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Team3S Digest Tuesday,
September 14 1999 Volume 01 : Number
283
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:30:17 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Notice: List Problems...
We are currently experiencing list
problems... The ISP, Sirius is
working on it (so they say...)--
I'll keep you all posted, if even
I can get
through...
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:36:30 -0500
From: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
Subject: Team3S:
How long to break-in after overhaul before switching to synthetic
oil?
Greetings list - I've got about 600 miles on my overhauled engine
and am
ready to change the oil. Should I stick with
conventional/petroleum-based
oil for another 3K miles to make sure the rings
and everything are set, or
can I switch to Mobil1 or other synthetic
now? Comments, please...
Thanks in advance,
Michael
'92
3000GT/SL
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:38:32 -0400
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Need some
trouble shooting help
Hi Guys, Need a little help! I
want to check my turbo charging system and
make sure everything is up to
snuff. Here is some info to help understand
where I am at right
now.
. I have been running a Blitz dual sol. controller at 1
bar.
. one day had nice boost at 1 bar next day no noticeable
boost (I say
noticeable because even if it was stock I cant tell because I
was so used to
1 bar.)
. The blitz would not allow me to reset the
max boost reading. It just
stayed at -39.
. The blitz also would not
produce a boost reading. (normally if you rev
the engine even at no load the
reading will go to 0.00.)
. I have talked with Mike at Altered
Atmosphere and he will have the blitz
replaced if it is defective. ( Ya gotta
love that guy, he really stands in
front of his customers)
But before
I send the blitz to Mike, I wanted to check everything else and
make
sure there is not another problem that might exist. I do not have
a
vacuum gauge/pump, so if I can run the checks without it I would
prefer
that. Any way, from what I have gleaned from the shop manual I
should be
looking at the following:
vac. hoses
wastegate
sol.
wastegates
turbos
bypass valve
If anyone is the resident
expert that could give me a recommended course
and procedure to test my
system, I would be greatly appreciate it. Along
with some explanation of
procedures that might make more sense that the shop
manual
does.
Bob
93 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Larry Rieders <vr4rieders@email.com>
Subject: RE:
Re: Team3S: Question -- noise when turning off engine
I have heard the
same noise, I believe it is the belt tension idler
"pulley". It also makes a
clicking noise at idle.
Mine is a 93 VR4.
- ------Original
Message------
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: Shawn
and Sarah Cullen <spcullen@prodigy.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Sent:
September 11, 1999 2:58:13 AM GMT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question -- noise when
turning off engine
The noise you describe sounds like the honking
goose Roger is researching.
I think someone else with a NT noticed this sound
after installing the K&N
filter.
Kevin
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Shawn and Sarah Cullen <spcullen@prodigy.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Friday, September 10, 1999 6:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Question -- noise when
turning off engine
> Question -- for the past couple hundred
miles, whenever I turn my engine
off
> I hear a funny kind of a
squeak/grind coming from under the hood.
> Occasionally, I'll hear it when
I hit 2-3k rpm when accelerating very
> slowly, but this is hard to
replicate. Under normal or hard accleration,
I
> don't hear it,
though this is likely because I'm ramping through the
> sensitive speed
more quickly.
>
> I thought it was a belt going bad. I had the
timing belt, tensioner,
water
> pump, drive belts, replaced today (60k
anyway) and still makes the noise
> when I turn off the
engine.
>
> I don't really notice any performance deficiencies,
leaking fluids, etc.
I
> just want my car to stop making this noise --
it worries me a bit.
>
> btw, my car is a 92 SL auto tranny (forgive
me). It makes the noise when
> the engine is turned off whether the
car is in park or neutral, in case
that
> makes any difference (thought
perhaps the shifter linkage was vibrating
> against the K&N mounting
brace -- it's pretty close in proximity but this
> test discounts that
theory).
>
> Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
>
> SC92SL
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
-----------------------------------------------
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Address @email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:26:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need some trouble shooting help
>. The blitz would not
allow me to reset the max boost reading. It just
>stayed at -39.
I
know, this sounds very stupid but are you sure you're not in the
limiter
modus or manual set ? Are you sure one of the settings are showed
(1-4)
Please note when you're in the settign mode the DSBC limits boost to
stock
(even lower).
>. The blitz also would not produce a
boost reading. (normally if you rev
>the engine even at no load the
reading will go to 0.00.)
When you turn off the engine the reading MUST
be 0.00. If not you're either
in anotherm ode or the thing is
damged.
>. I have talked with Mike at Altered Atmosphere and he
will have the blitz
>replaced if it is defective. ( Ya gotta love that
guy, he really stands in
>front of his customers)
Well, but it
would be really great if he'd alswer answer the emails :-)
>vac.
hoses
>wastegate sol.
>wastegates
>turbos
>bypass
valve
IMHO, none of the above. Is the car running ok so far ?
Bogging, strange
whistle ? If the real time boost doesn't go to 0.00 when
turn ign off the
thing is gone south or you're just in a setting mode. Would
be the first one
I ever heard of. More like it sounds like the wiring to the
solenoid box got
burnt and causes a short ciscuit. The good thing is the
solenoids then stay
open and limit boost but this may cause damage to the
whole system.
Hope this helps a little,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:05:29 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How long to break-in after overhaul before switching to synthetic
oil?
- -----Original Message-----From: Landis, Michael <MLandis@casham.com>
>Greetings
list - I've got about 600 miles on my overhauled engine
and am
>ready
to change the oil. Should I stick
with
conventional/petroleum-based
>oil for another 3K miles to make
sure the rings and everything are
set, or
>can I switch to Mobil1 or
other synthetic now? Comments, please...
Everything is usually
'set' within the first 100 to 200 miles, but
it's recommended that you 'break
in' an engine for about 500 miles,
just to make sure... From what I've
heard on the list, I think most
of us have switched to Mobil-1 ASAP.
You might want to do an
"engine flush" with some 'throw-away' oil for a few
hundred more
miles before you switch, however. This will get rid of the
rest of
the metal particles that are in any new engine... When I
switched,
I used an actual engine flush product (contains a thinner of
some
kind), then some throw-away oil for a few hundred miles, then went
to
Mobil-1.
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:11:25 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: FYI: Dash Gauges
Many of you have looked/purchased extra gauges
for the
various modifications you have made. It has come to
my
attention that the gauges on the Japanese GTO's may
differ slightly to those
on the American 3000GT's, such
that you may be able to free up a pod-space,
by using
a true Mitsi gauge rather than aftermarket ones.
The
following is a picture of the dash of a GTO:
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/GTO_Dash-tmp.gif
The
gauges in the pods on the Japanese GTO's are as follows:
Pod 1/3: Oil
Pressure Gauge
Pod 2/3: Combination Boost Gauge and Temperature
Gauge
Pod 3/3: Digital clock (rather ugly at that!)
It is this
middle gauge that may be of use to some people
that are wishing to free up a
slot for another item, and
can probably be got from Mitsubishi or a local
junk yard.
I have no idea as to the accuracy of the boost gauge,
and
since most people are wanting to replace the existing boost
gauge with
something a little more accurate this information
is probably useless.
Still, it's something to keep in mind
for the future...
Please note
that this was posted as information only, and
not intended to start up a
discussion on the differences
of the GTO/3000GT (of which there are many) -
these
differences are better discussed on the Starnet list or
directed
personally at me.
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
<-- few more pics on http://beam.to/GTO
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:20:49 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FYI: Dash Gauges
> The following is a picture of the dash of a
GTO:
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/GTO_Dash-tmp.gif
>
> The gauges in the pods on the Japanese GTO's are as
follows:
> Pod 1/3: Oil Pressure Gauge
> Pod
2/3: Combination Boost Gauge and Temperature Gauge
> Pod 3/3:
Digital clock (rather ugly at that!)
This is the same gauge cluster as in
the european one. There is a scan of the
prospectus of my car at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/flyer12.html
(large pic)
The accuracy of the gauge is good although it is slow in
reaction.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>
> It is this middle gauge that may be of use to some people
> that
are wishing to free up a slot for another item, and
> can probably be got
from Mitsubishi or a local junk yard.
>
> I have no idea as to the
accuracy of the boost gauge, and
> since most people are wanting to
replace the existing boost
> gauge with something a little more accurate
this information
> is probably useless. Still, it's something to
keep in mind
> for the future...
>
> Please note that this
was posted as information only, and
> not intended to start up a
discussion on the differences
> of the GTO/3000GT (of which there are
many) - these
> differences are better discussed on the Starnet list
or
> directed personally at me.
>
> Cheers,
> Kevin
Clark
> '91 GTO-VR4 <-- few more pics on http://beam.to/GTO
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual
Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race
pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:42:41 -0400
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Previous fuel cut problems
Just to give you guys an update, on
what I thought might have been fuel cut.
It was apparently the clutch, which
several of you had guessed. Looks like
I got one of the defective RPS
Carbon clutches. It has started slipping
quite badly now, when I apply
any type of power. Thanks for all the input,
both public and
private.
Michael
98 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:14:03 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Team3S: More
S-AVC-R Plumbing Questions
Hi All-
Up front, I want to thank those of
you who have responded with
really useful comentary regarding my preparation
for installing
the AEPXi S-AVC-R. You have showed me that my
interpretation
of the way the hardware works is correct. In spite of
all the helpful
responses, I still have one perplexing point: The
orifice in the OEM
"H" fitting impedes the flow from the pressure source
("Y-pipe")
when the OEM solenoid vents the "H" fitting, thus reducing the
pressure to the w.g. actuators, increasing (controlling) boost.
No one's
response to my questions regarding the plumbing for
the S-AVC-R has mentioned
an orifice in their plumbing. APEXi
has included an orifice in their
supplied fittings, but their
suggested place for its installation would not
have the desired
effect. You folks who have installed S-AVC-R
controllers with
success, please let me know what you did! Many
thanks!
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:39:02 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question -- noise when turning off engine
I had mentioned that since I
put a K&N on my NT I hear a goose kind of a
sound when my car shuts down.
I have heard it at no other time however.
It is definately an air induced
noise and there is no mistaking it for
bad bearings in an idler pulley; a bad
belt....I don't think so but it
is a wierd
noise.
Regards,
Lynn
Larry Rieders wrote:
>
> I
have heard the same noise, I believe it is the belt tension idler
>
"pulley". It also makes a clicking noise at idle.
> Mine is a 93
VR4.
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
> To:
Shawn and Sarah Cullen <spcullen@prodigy.net>,
> stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Sent: September 11, 1999 2:58:13 AM GMT
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Question --
noise when turning off engine
>
> The noise you describe sounds
like the honking goose Roger is researching.
> I think someone else with a
NT noticed this sound after installing the K&N
> filter.
>
> Kevin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 03:03:46 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gear Ratios and HP/Torqu Curves for Non turbos
does anyone have
links or pictures or know the Gear Ratios and HP/Torqu
Curves for Non turbos
with the DOHC engines? specifically a 95 base
3000GT but I can't imagine it's
different between any yar non turbo
DOHC. Thanks.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:12:41 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question -- noise when turning off engine
Hey
Lynn;
Originally you didn't indicate "the squeek" was an air
induced noise.
Posts sent in to help you with the problem, were
directed at the more
mechanical end of things, especially pointing at pulleys
as being a likely
culprit.
Thre "honking goose syndrome" was first
noted by Jim Mathews a few
centuries ago, and it seems to be related to
the BOV in "some" cars after
the K&N "system" is installed. I
believe an after market BOV solves the
problem in some cases...but not all.
{Check on makes} For unknown reasons,
this is a problem with some cars after
K&N instalation, but not all. Roger,
another of our Admins (Jim is
also) is currently trying to work out the
cause of this annoyance and will
post on it when he solves it.
Best
Darc
>I had
mentioned that since I put a K&N on my NT I hear a goose kind of
a
>sound when my car shuts down. I have heard it at no other time
however.
>It is definately an air induced noise and there is no mistaking
it for
>bad bearings in an idler pulley; a bad belt....I don't think so
but it
>is a wierd
noise.
>
>Regards,
>Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:18:18 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical connector undo
I need to disconnect an electrical
plug. It's the one going into the
windshield wiper motor (I want to
disconnect the wiper motor so I can use
the washer lever to activate my brake
cooling system, but that's another
story).
I've examined this plug up
one side and down the other.
It seems to have a catch that must be
released.
I stuck a small screwdriver in there to no avail.
I've squeezed
it from all sides, with no luck.
I've tried (gently) to pry the sucker apart,
but I thought it was going to
break.
I am at a loss. Arrgghhh!
How
do you get these furshlugginer electrical plugs apart?
All help will be
greatly appreciated.
Rich/old poop/stopped by a plug
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:28:25 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Electrical connector undo
Generally there is a part on the male plug that
needs to be depressed. This
uncouples it from the female plug.
While depressed you can then slide the
two plugs apart. It's hard
though, these things like to stay coupled...
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Monday, September 13, 1999 9:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: Electrical connector
undo
> I need to disconnect an electrical plug. It's the one going
into the
> windshield wiper motor (I want to disconnect the wiper motor so
I can use
> the washer lever to activate my brake cooling system, but
that's another
> story).
>
> I've examined this plug up one
side and down the other.
> It seems to have a catch that must be
released.
> I stuck a small screwdriver in there to no avail.
> I've
squeezed it from all sides, with no luck.
> I've tried (gently) to pry the
sucker apart, but I thought it was going to
> break.
> I am at a
loss. Arrgghhh!
>
> How do you get these furshlugginer electrical
plugs apart?
> All help will be greatly appreciated.
>
>
Rich/old poop/stopped by a plug
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:10:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More S-AVC-R Plumbing Questions
>responses, I still have one
perplexing point: The orifice in the OEM
>"H" fitting impedes the
flow from the pressure source ("Y-pipe")
>when the OEM solenoid vents the
"H" fitting, thus reducing the
>pressure to the w.g. actuators, increasing
(controlling) boost.
No, there is no flow at all (ok, a little but
negligible) as only pressure
counts. Therefore if the larger line leads into
a smaller connector, this
dosn't do anything like reducing or increasing
pressure.
>No one's response to my questions regarding the plumbing
for
>the S-AVC-R has mentioned an orifice in their plumbing.
APEXi
>has included an orifice in their supplied fittings, but
their
>suggested place for its installation would not have the
desired
>effect.
What effect are you speaking about ? Usually,
there is no orivice needed as
this would cause a leak in the lines. AFAIK,
there are three hoses that go
to the Apexi box, the inlet from the y-pipe,
the outlet to the "H" type
connector and the boost sensing line from the
manifold.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:59:24 -0400
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Evacuating
Well folks, Talk with ya in a few days. I live in
Charleston, SC and will
be heading out of Dodge as it looks like the
hurricane will be making
landfall in my backyard.
Will be taking the
Stealth out of harms way.
Bob
93 Stealth TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:00:06 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question -- noise when turning off engine
It was just brought to
my attention that Lynn's car is a non turbo. Has
anyone else with a non turbo
experienced the Honking Goose syndrome?? If so,
then as Roger just pointed
out to me, a BOV would not be the culprit. Any
others with NT's having this
problem??
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darcy Gunnlaugson
<wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
To:
Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, September 13, 1999 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question -- noise
when turning off engine
>Hey Lynn;
>
> Originally you
didn't indicate "the squeek" was an air induced noise.
>Posts sent
in to help you with the problem, were directed at the
more
>mechanical end of things, especially pointing at pulleys as being a
likely
>culprit.
>
>Thre "honking goose syndrome" was first
noted by Jim Mathews a few
>centuries ago, and it seems to be
related to the BOV in "some" cars after
>the K&N "system" is
installed. I believe an after market BOV solves the
>problem in some
cases...but not all. {Check on makes} For unknown reasons,
>this is a
problem with some cars after K&N instalation, but not
all.
Roger,
>another of our Admins (Jim is also) is currently trying to
work out the
>cause of this annoyance and will post on it when he solves
it.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>
>
>>I
had mentioned that since I put a K&N on my NT I hear a goose kind of
a
>>sound when my car shuts down. I have heard it at no other time
however.
>>It is definately an air induced noise and there is no
mistaking it for
>>bad bearings in an idler pulley; a bad belt....I
don't think so but it
>>is a wierd
noise.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Lynn
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 08:02:25 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question -- noise when turning off engine
- -----Original
Message-----From: Darcy Gunnlaugson
<wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
>It was
just brought to my attention that Lynn's car is a non
turbo.
Has
>anyone else with a non turbo experienced the Honking
Goose
syndrome?? If so,
>then as Roger just pointed out to me, a BOV
would not be the
culprit. Any
>others with NT's having this
problem??
I don't have what I'd call "Honking Goose syndrome", as I
understand
it...
But the sound of the K&N on an NT is definitely
different than with
the stock airbox. I'd characterize it in two
parts: A slight, but
more noticeable "wooaaaaaaa" sound when you put
the pedal down and
hit WOT (reminiscent of the old 4-bbl carbs of muscle
cars), and a
similarly subtle sound when turning the car off,
like
"ahhh-hisssss"...
This is quite normal-- these are
'non-turbo' (NT),
'normally-aspirated' (NA) engines without all the turbo
plumbing in
the intake path, so sounds come out as easily as air goes
in. The
less-restrictive K&N allows you to hear sounds coming OUT
from the
throttle body more easily, just like it lets air IN more
easily.
One of the reasons that so many of us replace the stock airbox
with
the K&N FIPK is that the stock system has a smaller, and
more
restrictive filter, which steals some horsepower to allow for
a
quieter, "Stealth-ier" sound level. And I personally don't
like
loud intake or exhaust systems, but I don't find this slight
increase
in sound level to be objectionable at all, especially in
light of the
substantial performance improvement.
One more note about
"honking"... If for some reason the K&N (or
resonator removal) has
been done incorrectly, with one of the intake
hose sections allowing a gap or
opening (or the resonator hole is
left open), there can be a VERY noticeable
sound, like the "honk"
that you get when blowing air across the mouth of a
beer bottle, for
example. If that's what you're hearing, go check every
section of
the intake path to make sure everything is mated correctly.
Leaving
an unfiltered opening is not only noisy, it's potentially
hazardous
to your engine, since it can easily 'vacuum' up some debris right
in
through the throttle body...
Hope this helps a
bit...
Forrest
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:23:41 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question -- noise when turning off engine
> But the sound of
the K&N on an NT is definitely different than with
> the stock
airbox. I'd characterize it in two parts:
<snip>
> and a
similarly subtle sound when turning the car off, like
>
"ahhh-hisssss"...
Yep, ditto here. I only notice it when I have the
windows down and the
radio off when I kill the ignition. I can hear it
much better in my garage
(1-car), where there are lots of smooth surfaces for
the sound to bounce off
of.
I also hear a slight hiss when the engine
is on (idling or otherwise) coming
from under the hood. I can only hear
it from outside the car, and if the
hood is down, I have to listen very
attentively. If the hood is up, I can
hear it best near the K&N
cone and near the TB (?!?) I've checked and
double checked the
connections around the intake plenum, TB, and intake
hoses. I can't
find any leaks, so I'm guessing I'm just hearing the sound
from the K&N
echoing around in the plenum...
- --Erik
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:19:42 -0700
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FYI: Dash Gauges
Not to question you personally, but...
If our
gauges are all very inaccurate how can yours actually be
fairly
close?
Does it use different inputs, different
scale???
Inquiring minds want to know.
"R.G." wrote:
>
>
The accuracy of the gauge is good although it is slow in reaction.
>
> Roger
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #283
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