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From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #282
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest Monday,
September 13 1999 Volume 01 : Number
282
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Sep 1999 13:05:19 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Questions, Questions Questions
Ok first question, My engine in my
car is out and I figured I might as well
get the clutch replaced. I
can't decide between the Dual Friction and RPS
stage 2 Claw. I don't
want the stage 3 cause of the problems a lot of
people had with them.
The Stage 2 doesn't have the carbon fiber clutch. I
would really
appreciate if anyone has driven both and could say which was
better. I
want the one which will last the longest with abuse but only
street
racing.
My second question deals with my car's engine spun the 3rd rod
bearing. I
have a warranty which covers the whole engine. I am
curious if there is
anything else to the car I should do while getting a new
engine. Any
performance things which would be to my benefit while it is
out but I don't
wan to spend a fortune. Thanks for any and all
assistance.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:15:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking
Got a new set of brake scoops on, under the
valence. These don't protrude
down as much, so they should survive an off in
the grass.
I started to install the water cooling system, but ran into a
snag. I'm
running the water line directly to the center of the rotor (not the
braking
surface) instead of injecting into the ducts. Problem is, the only
place I
can install the pump is atop the radiator shroud. Alas, this is above
the
windshield washer reservoir, and the pump doesn't have enough oomph to
suck
up the water (even after I primed it).
The stock windshield
washers work great, and I see where I can tap into the
hose going to the
squirters and divert water to the brakes. This would be
OK -- all I gotta do
then is swap the hose at each event. It's not likely
I'd need windshield
washers during an open-track event or an autocross.
Problem is, I can't
find the wire leading to the washer pump cuz it's
BURIED down there behind
the engine.
If I can find it, I'll rig a line to the brake switch. Anybody
know where I
could tap into this wire? Seems like I could get to it at the
steering
wheel or anywhere en route to the washer pump.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:01:11 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Adventures in braking
I can see how water would cool the
brakes.. but owuldn't it be bad to
use it while braking... I could see if yuo
misted the air intake during
straight-aways of after a turn cause it gives
hte water time to dry..
but I don't understand why put water on the surface
(where you need the
friction) while you're trying to cause friction. But then
again, I'm no
engineer. Care to explain? Thanks.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:36:36 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Adventures in braking
At 05:01 PM 9/11/99 -0400, J. Stephen
Gula wrote:
>I can see how water would cool the brakes.. but owuldn't it
be bad to
>use it while braking... I could see if yuo misted the air
intake during
>straight-aways of after a turn cause it gives hte water
time to dry..
>but I don't understand why put water on the surface (where
you need the
>friction) while you're trying to cause friction. But then
again, I'm no
>engineer. Care to explain? Thanks.
>
The water
does not go directly onto the braking surface.
In TransAm cars, they inject
water straight down inside the rotor, by
squirting it into the air vents (our
rotors, like most high-performance
cars, have vented rotors). I plan to
squirt water at the dead center of the
rotor hub, where the air vents start.
If that doesn't work, I'll try the
TransAm method. Injecting water into the
air stream going to the brakes
works, too. I'm squirting at the center of the
hub because it's the easiest
to plumb.
But even if I did get some
water on the braking surface, at the
temperatures we run at open track
sessions, the water would instantly flash
to steam. In fact, there is a
theory that racing brakes reach such high
temperatures that they create a
thermodynamic "shield" (kinda like the
China Syndrome) that keeps cooling air
and water away from the surface.
Fortunately, I don't run quite that hot.
With a water-injected system, I gotta shut it off when I leave the
track,
else it will do exactly what you describe to a set of cold brakes.
Water
injected brakes are not something that can be used on the
street.
Rich/old poop/VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:39:17 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brake cooling. (was:Adv. in braking)
Hey, Rich,
I know you've been
exploring air scoops and you're going after water
cooling for your brakes,
but is there a chance there are other ways?
I was looking through some NOS
pages, and it dawned on me that
either bottled compressed air (or CO2 or NOS)
would be even colder
than water and spread more evenly over the heated
surfaces...
Then there's the even better possibility of using some 12v
air pumps
(the ones for inflating watercraft, ~$27 each) that would
trigger
off the brakes with a microswitch. They would be noisy out in
the
open, but you could bury 4 of them in the trunk in a foam-lined
box
with lots of holes in it. Hell, you could even put a couple
of
chunks of dry ice in the box for even more cooling. Those
little
centrifugal pumps kick out air like a little hair dryer...
Attach a
1/2" hose on the output end and you could direct it
anywhere...
Each pump is rated at 450liters/minute, so you might get away
with
using only 2 pumps. Even 4 pumps would use less battery power
than
a stereo, at only 9 amps a piece... In fact, for the same weight
of
water you would be carrying for the spray system, you could carry a
31
amp hr deep-cycle marine gel battery (~20lbs) and not have to use
the car
battery at all. That would give you over 50 continuous
minutes of brake
cooling at the full speed of 4 pumps.
Think of more than 7 liters per
second of cool air blowing past the
brakes-- that's not a breeze, it's a
gale! And it can get rid of a
whole lot of heat without wetting
anything, or having to hook up a
washer system...
Just some food for
thought...
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>Got
a new set of brake scoops on, under the valence. These
don't
protrude
>down as much, so they should survive an off in the
grass.
>
>I started to install the water cooling system, but ran
into a snag.
I'm
>running the water line directly to the center of the
rotor (not the
braking
>surface) instead of injecting into the ducts.
Problem is, the only
place I
>can install the pump is atop the radiator
shroud. Alas, this is
above the
>windshield washer reservoir, and the
pump doesn't have enough oomph
to suck
>up the water (even after I
primed it).
- ---------snip-----------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:54:18 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Brake cooling. (was:Adv. in braking)
At 02:39 PM 9/11/99
-0700, Bob Forrest wrote:
>Hey, Rich,
>
>I know you've been
exploring air scoops and you're going after water
>cooling for your
brakes, but is there a chance there are other ways?
>I was looking through
some NOS pages, and it dawned on me that
>either bottled compressed air
(or CO2 or NOS) would be even colder
>than water and spread more evenly
over the heated surfaces...
<snip> >Then there's the even better
possibility of using some 12v air pumps
>(the ones for inflating
watercraft, ~$27 each) that would trigger
>off the brakes with a
microswitch. They would be noisy out in the
>open, but you could
bury 4 of them in the trunk in a foam-lined box
Geez, I dunno Bob. Seems
a bit extreme.
Actually, with the Porterfield R4 pads and air ducts, I am
getting close to
a workable solution. The water injection is like icing on
the cake.
The acid test will be at Road America, with three one-mile
straights and
braking from 140+ three times per lap.
Rich/somebody
stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:06:22 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: List of mods and projects
Hi friends,
I have been asked
lately what all the (performance) mods are on my car at the
moment so I
openend the hood and checked. Here's the list and what's next :
93'3000GT
TT with 13G
- - Blitz DSBC (max boost 1.05 kg/cm2)
- - Blitz Dual
Timer
- - Apexi S-AFC (does nothing today)
- - K&N FIPK
- - ERL
Water Injection
- - Magnecor wires (no performance thing)
- - GT Pro
aluminum y-pipe, custom made with WI port
- - ATR downpipe without cat (not
installed for the next dyno session)
- - Borla cat-back (not installed for
next dyno session)
Project 1 (addon to the above):
- - Denso (HKS)
fuel pump (Thuesday)
- - B&M "New Volt" ignition amplifier test
(this/next week)
Test will be done with 0.045" gap on the plugs, no
WI.
Dyno run if there is less knock with higher boost.
- - Final tuning of
the WI system to get rid of knock
Project 2 :
- - 440cc injectors
(DSM) with the help of the AFC (as soon as I get them)
and maybe other
fuel control
Dyno run when properly tuned in with and w/out
WI.
Project 3 :
- - 720cc injectors (RC Eng.) with fuel
control
Dyno run when properly tuned in with and w/out WI.
Project 4
:
- - Precats
- additional rear precat is available:)
-
new front pipe will be welded to ATR dp
Project 5 :
- - Headers (ex-Gt
Alley) are ready
- - GT368 Turbos (20G) are ready
- - Intercooler
piping
Project 4 and 5 will be postboned to next year as I can't do any
work on the car
during winter.
Also there is a huge FMIC lying around but
the WI system insreases the
efficiency just very good !
Stay
tuned,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #282
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